I'm glad you gave advice on leveling your scope before poking anything heavy down the tube, as I have made that mistake in the past and got the damage mirror to prove it. Great mod btw, well executed, stay safe friend.
Thanks! You're not alone. I once unscrewed a plate on the inside of an 8" Dob. I didn't even think about the possibility of dropping it for some reason until I did! Dinged the mirror of course. Stay safe buddy!
I just got a Sky-Watcher Virtuoso GTi 150p and followed your instructions to improve the focuser and the build the light shroud. They were very helpful. Thank you very much. I like your RUclips channel.
Great mod. I used a thin yoga mat material cut similarly as in your video for my 130P 5” Skywatcher Heritage and it works beautifully. The yoga mat adds insulating properties, is already matt finished so anti-glare and it allows for retraction without damaging the mirrors. Thank you for your informative video!
Knowing me I'm probably going to mess up the measurements 😂 i don't even have the telescope yet, i just like watching these videos to prepare myself to modify it when i do eventually buy it. Great work friend!
Hello from Brooklyn, New York.I wanna thank you for your great vids, especially on the 150P, my new(and first) telescope! Great mods. I'm finding all kinds of ways to tweak this scope myself, (every bit counts!) Thanks so much, keep up the good work!
Thank you ever so much for such an informative video. I am rather terrible with anything crafty, so this was extremely helpful, and now my telescope possesses the delightful contrast it unequivocally deserves. I send my warm gratitude to you. 🤝
Thank you very much sir! My OneSky is finally enroute after two months back order, this video is very helpful, something I wouldn't have thought about 😀
@@Astrolavista thank you! I actually managed to record the moon drift across my telescope the same night and it turned out so very well! Love your videos, very helpful, keep it up!
Thanks for this video. I suggest using carpet tape instead of Velcro. Especially around the telescope. This allows you to lower the foam very low and the top cover closes completely.
I did this in the woods camping last year with a usb rechargeable hot glue gun! Tested before and after in WV darkish skies it really helped! I Also made a dew/reflection shield out of spare foam somewhat conical and longer on one side to help eliminate glare from lights or the moon getting into the business end. My focuser hole was a afterthought also. Have a good Clear Skies!
Hey Astrobeard, Glad it made a difference, I thought so too last night. p.s. I'm super impressed with how prepared you are on your camping trips with the USB glue gun! Maybe there are a few mods left to do, I haven't done anything with the secondary yet.
Hi! I have just got this telescope and have been enjoying looking at Jupiter and the moon. However, I just got a ASI224mc and can only seem to focus with the Barlow x2 in. Do I need a spacer or something for the camera to achieve focus? If so, do you have any recommendations? Many thanks and keep up the good work (the shroud works great btw)
Hey congrats on the new scope, I hope you enjoy it! The Astro Essentials low profile camera adapter may be worth a go; it will help move the sensor further into the focuser: www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-low-profile-camera-adapter-for-zwo-planetary-cameras/ref/astrolavista/ Otherwise you can try dropping the truss rods down an inch which will push the focal plane further out of the focuser...the only down side being light from the edge of the primary mirror will miss the secondary mirror so it effectively stops down the optics a touch E.g. instead of being a 150mm f/5, it will be closer to 140mm f5.4
I know this is three years old but I just got my first telescope a sky watcher 150p I live in the city ( small fail) but just tried it tonight and the moon was stupid bright… like almost looking at the sun bright. The scope thingy is not lining up with the viewfinder ( I am stupid new to this.) any way to fix this or is that just how it works? Ugh lol
Hi there, you can screw a 1.25" Moon filter to the bottom of your eyepieces to reduce the glare of the Moon and increase contrast: www.firstlightoptics.com/moon-neutral-density-filters/astro-essentials-nd96-0-9-1-25-moon-filter/ref/astrolavista/ and if you move the red dot finder forwards on the stalk, it should sit more true, allowing you to use the adjustments to align the red dot with the eyepiece view through the telescope. I think I remember this being the solution as I had the same problem.
Thank you for this video. The mods look like they make sense, and not too hard. Glad you include metric measurements, for those of us over here in the 21st century in Europe! I have the 150 on order waiting for delivery as my first telescope since i was a kid.
Nice and cheap solution for the light shroud, I could have totally made something like it for my 10" skywatcher goto dobsonian, but I bought a light shroud before seeing this video.
Thanks for this vid. I’ve done both mods and they actually work! I admit a 2nd attempt was needed. Tip: the Velcro on the shroud will bend outwards so may come off so a bit of (super) glue may help. Thanks again
Thanks for this Video. I just tried out your mods and it worked very well. Additionaly I plached some Teflon Tape to the base of the rockerbox. Now it moves much smoother.
I watched this video 3 times in anticipation of my 150p. I made the foam cut out, was so proud that I remembered to cut a hole out for the eyepiece. And then I forgot that the cap needs to go on so my eyepiece hole is half an inch lower now haha. Ah well, it's just gonna be a slightly longer hole. Thanks for the vid!
Thank you! Took it out today for the first time with the light shield and it certainly made a difference. Not huge but still noticeable, especially in a busy neighborhood. Thanks for these tips, really helps someone get into astronomy and make it a fun hobby.
Thanks for sharing. I have the Astronomers Without Border 130 version of this scope. Using the Pi formula, i calculated around 20" and 11". Looking forward to any astrophotography you will do with this scope.
Thanks. I've done a bit of imaging so far and just needed to drop the truss rods down an inch to reach focus but it worked well. I'm just waiting to get a few more images together before I do a video on that one . Cheers!
Congrats on the new scope, I hope you enjoy it :) The focuser takes standard 1.25" eyepieces so there is plenty of choice out there. A 5mm eyepiece will give you 150x which will be good for getting up close to the planets and the Moon. I'll link you a couple of good examples below: www.firstlightoptics.com/stellalyra-eyepieces/stellalyra-5mm-125-ler-eyepiece/ref/astrolavista/ www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces/bst-starguider-60-5mm-ed-eyepiece/ref/astrolavista/
Hi, yes! it just needs to be long enough to reach inside the bottom section when the telescope is fully extended. It's been a little while since I made the video but I think I talk about this subject at some point. When my Heritage 150p is in the collapsed position the light shroud clears the primary mirror by a good margin so you will be just fine :)
Hello Chris, I am looking to buy the Skywatcher 150p soon, mostly because I want something portable yet sturdy and its in a pretty good price range. These mods seem great so I will likely use them as well. I was wondering though if it may be necessary to buy additional accessories? I am thinking of getting a 2 or 3x Barlow lense for additional magnification, seems possible from what I'm reading in the comments. Do you have any suggestions for which would be better, and would I need to think about buying filters as well for better viewing? Cheers in advance
Hi Jurre, for the money it would be really hard to find better optics so I think you would be making a good choice. If you're interested in viewing or imaging the planets then a 2x Barlow would be a good choice to increase your focal length. I use a 2.5x Barlow to view and image the planets with the Heritage 150p. I wouldn't worry about filters for now unless you spend a lot of time viewing the Moon in which case a Moon filter would help take away some of the intense glare for better contrast and more comfortable viewing. I've made a number of videos based around the Heritage 150p if you've not seen them already? I've even had surprisingly good look imaging the planets with it. Not the easiest scope to image with but it's impressed me :)
@@Astrolavista Thanks for the help! I think I'll look into the Barlows and decide on 2x or 2.5x when I've toyed with the telescope a bit. And I will check your other videos on the telescope as well, wasn't aware of them!
Thanks very helpful video. I have my 130p and will be making these mods this week. Do you have a video on stacking and editing images? I had my first go last night on registax ad struggled but got there in the end. More advise from someone with experience would make life so much easier.
You're very welcome :) Yes indeed! My home page is divided into sections/topics, here is the tutorial section: ruclips.net/p/PLxT-jDX21CisfHZgeFqm4INRqfstx2BB2
Note to self - (53.4cm) or C56cm (to allow for velcro) x H33cm I've seen other astronomers use black duct tape instead of velcro to avoid making obstruction and also making another shield for the focus tube.
I'm planning on mounting the Heritage on my EXOS2 mount shortly, and there is no problem doing so because it has a Vixen dovetail which is fairly universal for modern mounts :) A guy I know from Stargazers Lounge uses his Heritage with various mounts also. Here is a link: stargazerslounge.com/topic/357099-first-light-with-the-sky-watcher-heritage-150p/
Thanks for the tips. The PTFE tape seems to rip and break off. Have you faced the issue? Any suggestions on how to keep the helical focuser more stable?
No worries. The PTFE tape is the only way I know of. The wider tape seems to work better, and you need to wrap just the right amount for the best result. It's also something you have to re new every so often so it's far from ideal. There's not much room for improvement with the loose plastic helical focuser, it's the Heritages Achilles heel.
@@Astrolavista thanks I was trying to collimate using a laser collimater and just a few turns of the helical focuser moved the dot quite a bit. Even the slight jiggle after adding the tape makes the dot move. I wonder how much impact this has on quality of image through the scope
I am looking at getting one of those but somebody said the mounting for the focuser is quite weak and the weight of a barlow could bend it. Does it seem that flimsy?
I don't like the loose helical focusers on the Heritage scopes but it wont bend under the weight of a Barlow lens. I used quite heavy eyepieces when I owned this scope with and without Barlow's.
Hello and Merry Christmas! I also have this telescope and was thinking of making this shroud, but I hesitate a bit, thinking about the outside elements. Would it not change its shape if it is exposed to frost? I'm afraid I could damage the mirrors if there is some lack of attention, during daylight and especially in the dark. Thanks for your very useful videos and thanks in advance for your time if you see and reply to this comment! :)
Merry Christmas :) I had my shroud on for 18 months with no issues so I think it would be ok. It's only foam so it wont damage the mirror, plus modern mirrors have an overcoat layer to protect them. Cheers :)
Dude!! Ok, I'm from California and you from the UK, so, Sir Dude! I really appreciate this video. I just got the AWB 130, and have been reading about these mods on Starry Night, but this video helps immensely. Thank you! My next purchase will be a 2X Barlow.... Any thoughts on the Celestron Omni 2X Barlow?
Thanks Man, Glad the video helped :) lol I think Sir Dude would make for a great You Tube name.....tempted :D I've owned Celestron OMNI Plossl eyepieces and they were well made and optically good, therefore I think the Barlow should be good too. A 2x is also very easy to work out your magnification too :)
@@Astrolavista Fantastic! What a timely response too... I just saw some Celestron Plossl's in 13mm and 40mm for sale pretty cheap. going to try to snatch them up, along with a new Omni Barlow! Appreciate your channel, Sir Dude. Ive been binging, lol. Keep up the great work!
Hey there Chris, I'm finally getting around to making a shroud! Do you think 5mm foamboard would also work? Again, thanks for recommending this scope, loving it so far.
Hi Jurre, it would work if it's flexible enough to roll into a tube shape, it just depends on how stiff it is? The word 'board' suggests that it might be too stiff? Glad you're loving the scope! :)
Hi Chris, I cant seem to find the foam sheet size (50cmx70cm)you linked to here in the US. Question.. So would you say the size of the piece of foam I need is about 22x13in or 560x330mm?
Hi great video!thank you very much.can you tell what exact material is the foam because i cant find it in greece.i found some alternatives foam sheets but they tell me that if i create a cylinder it will crush thank again.
Can that type of focuser deal with a phone adapter for some basic imaging, it doesnt look promising. I am considering on buying 130p or 150p as a grab and go, wouldn't want to brake the focuser of when taking pictures..
Hey Predrag, it really isn't the best focuser without doing the PTFE tape mod, there is a lot of play and it's quite loose so easily turns. Because a phone attaches at one end where the lens is, it would act like a big lever and constantly hang down under gravity. I think it could work if you used the PTFE plumbers tape because you could wrap enough around the thread such that it becomes fairly stiff to turn, then it should hold....but give me a rack and pinion focuser any day!
Hi, the only reason I can think of (why not to do it) is that the plumbers tape can sometimes come off, but the light shroud is a great upgrade :) I don't think many truss rod Dobsonian telescope come with shrouds so I can kind of get that they would leave that up to the user, but why they leave so much slack on the helical focuser is any ones guess?I don't understand it myself.
Great video, will do these once my 150P arrives. Another thing I've picked up in different places is that the edges of the secondary mirror should be blackened to reduce reflections - with a black marker, or ideally with black velvet. It's also been suggested that lining the inside of the tube with velvet would further cut down on reflections and increase contrast. I've also thought about ways to attach a 2" eyepiece instead of the 1.25" one, but that seems to be a tad beyond my DIY skill :D
@@Nottsboy24 None so far :D I ordered the one in the video (Skywatcher Heritage 150P) and it should arrive in a week or so. I just tried to find all the information on it that I could, and made a list of modifications and adjustments that others have made and recommended.
Hi AGH331, congrats on ordering the Heritage 150p. I have a few videos on that scope so far if you want to check them out. Yes edge blackening lenses and mirrors is another good little mod to perform to help with contrast, and flocking (black velvet) too! lol I think a 2" focuser mod is beyond me also! I'm not sure the truss rods would take 2" eyepieces so it's probably for the best :D p.s. just brought back memories of the heaviest eyepiece I ever owned. The Maxvision 40mm 68 degrees at a whopping 1.3kg!
I don’t have this telescope (yet) but this video was entertaining and instructive on how to improve it should I take the plunge and buy one. Thank you!
HI Artin, it's A2 craft foam, here's a link :) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Giant-Foam-Sheets-for-Arts-Craft-Projects/302450788780?hash=item466b78c9ac:g:vdEAAOSwf1ReqfTU
great mods, i also like to put dewcap extending another 8" beyond the front as the 2nd mirror can get dewed up in the dewy months. Most people think dew caps for stc/mak's but it also helps for reflectors where the mirror is close the top of the tube. PS i also have a astro channel mainly on telescopes and reviews etc. i will sub to you joe
You're absolutely right Joe, secondaries on reflectors definitely dew up so you're right to use a dew shield. I used to have SCT's and moved to an RC thinking I could lose the dew shield....no chance lol
The PTF tape worked on my 130p but it does sometimes shed flakes. I bought a 150p Virtuoso, many reasons and calculations went into this and it turns out to be the most value package out of all the GTI and Go2 options. Anyways two things that stand out. Helical focuser on the 150p has more friction when focusing, its tight and while my 130p is flocked, the original paint job looked like that grey colour seen in the ST80 but the paint is jet black with a texture that feels like sandpaper on my 150p. The Virtuoso has the same 150p tube as yours but i do wonder if Skywatcher made some modifications since you bought yours because PTF tape isn't required and neither is flocking or if it's because it's the Virtuoso version. The quality just feels more premium on the 150p.
Hopefully they have made changes like you say, the helical focuser was loose and sloppy on the Heritage 150p when I had one so good to hear this has potentially changed.
@@Astrolavista That was the first thing i checked when i got it, we'll see how long it stays that way and seems to hold large eyepieces like my 100 degree APM eyepieces without issue but does look a bit odd seeing them sticking out the side. My only minor, very minor complaint if i had one, is the red dot finderscope placement being right behind the eyepiece, ok if viewing from the right side but not the left. Now i am just looking for ways to pimp it out lol.
Hi Chris, in this video and the link in description you have 3mm thick foam, but in the comments and over on SGL you've said 2mm. Would you be able to say which one is better? Thanks
Hi James, I can't remember what I used at the time, I'm guessing I would have linked to the stuff I was using for the video in which case it must be 3mm. I probably should have left the thickness blank, sorry for the confusion I'm sure either is fine.
Great mod and great video. I'm considering the 130p as my first scope and was wondering about all that open space when it is in that extended position.
I am struggling between this one of zhumell z130 because seems like it is better .more solid . But of course it is heavier . 10kg vs Hertiage one is 4kg . It is a gift for someone I dont know what to choose
@@ericaroundtheworld The Heritage 130p the base alone is about 4KG and the tube is about 3KG. The Zhumel was the combined weight, the Heritage 130p combined weight is about 7KG. The Zhumel costs more than the Heritage 150p in the UK.
Yes, you get a good 6" of aperture for the money and the mount is nice and easy to use and sturdy. I'm not keen on the helical focuser but you can't have everything at this price point. Overall it was a good buy.
The secondary mirror housing is oval because of the truss rods so I'm not sure that a conventional round solar filter will fit securely. You may need to make a bespoke filter from Baader solar film to test it out. Theoretically as long as the sides are covered and you have a solar filter securely mounted to the front you should be fine, however I can't promise as I've not tested it.
I know the mount you have well Paul, both a 4SE and 5SE have passed through my hands over the years. It's a very nice little mount but I honestly doubt there would be enough clearance for such a large optical tube as the 150p. I think if you slewed anywhere near zenith it would collide with the mount. The dovetail is short also so you can't get round this by moving the OTA further forward either. I once stuck a 90mm f6 refractor on a 4SE mount and I couldn't reach zenith with that either.
Hi everyone. Great Video and solutions. By the way does anyone know how to remove primary mirror to clean? I tried to unscrew bottom side screws but "bottom cup with primary mirror" seemed to be sealed or glued :( so I don't know how to clean Primary Mirror.
Here Italy, i have the Skywatcher heritage 130/650 (from AMAZON for only 188 Euros - the prize). Parabolic mirror high quality. Sharp Images, fantastic Jupiter and Saturn.
Hi Chris. Very enjoyable video to watch and learn 2 simple mods! We all make mistakes as we are only human. Few times when I was doing astrophotography with my Canon 700D DSLR I kept getting black shots then I thought what's wrong? Then I thought lens cap where is it? Still on lens. You ever thought of putting your phone camera up to eye piece and taking shot of moon? I've ordered that planetary camera from first light optics so it's a new addition to my astrophotography setup! What light pollution filter should I go for? This little scope you have looks so good and these mods cost little and easy to do for yourself. Take care and stay safe!
Cheers John, the lens cap thing is a classic, we've all done it :) I would use a smart phone if I didn't have dedicated planetary cameras. Congrats on the ASI120mc, it's a fab planetary camera for the money, You won't need a light polution filter for planets and the Moon because this are bright objects which take very short exposures, but I see ZWO have started using clear optical windows for their cameras so you will benefit from a UV/IR cut filter. I've linked one below. I use the Baader UV/IR cut but it's about double the price, so if I hadn't managed to pick it up second hand I would have bought the ZWO filter: www.firstlightoptics.com/uv-ir-filters/zwo-1-25inch-iruv-cut-filter.html Clear skies!
Thanks Man works great now i just need the clouds to feck off. A tip for anyone else you need 3mm EVA foam not neoprene wetsuit material which I managed to order....too floppy.
Hi mate. What would be the best for deep sky photography? A 120mm achromatic refractor or a 150mm reflector? Both would be F5 and both are on an eq3-2 mount and tripod. Also, Transportabilty. Thanks for any advice.
HI Alan, doh! I just wrote out a massive reply and it got lost, so I'll keep it short second time around lol The best 150mm f5 would be this one: www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ds-ota.html although on an EQ3 I would go with the 130pds as the focal length is a tad shorter so it will be easier for the mount to track for longer. For DSO imaging you ideally want to put most the money into the mount and keep the focal length short so you're not smearing photons across your camera sensor with tracking errors. Tracking with the Earths rotation is the most critical thing with DSO imaging.
Both would be far too large for an EQ3-2 mount for astrophotography. In addition the achromat would show serious chromatic aberrations. Most people use small ED or APOs on very sturdy mounts for astrophotography, alternatively you could go for a smaller reflector (e.g. 130 mm Newton). Or you could simply start with a photographic tracking mount, DSLR/DSLM and lens - the pictures you can get that way are still stunning (see Astrobackyards channel for a video on photographing the Orion and Horsehead Nebulae with such a set-up). To sum it up, astrophotography is complicated, expensive, and the mount is much more important than the telescope you put on it.
@@AGH331 Yes indeed, good advice. A star tracker particularly with a lens is by far the cheapest and easiest way to getting good results with DSO imaging. I don't object to people starting with a 150p EQ3 and motor drive though, I managed to get 60 second subs out of mine which isn't bad for 750mm focal length, so it's not the worst place to start. I actually think the 150p EQ3 is a good all rounder. The ST120 would have been way worse, I bought one and moved it one pretty quickly. Way too much CA. I think the ST102 is better, I'm playing with one of those at the moment. I take it you didn't have so much luck with your EQ3?
HI Arendom, I'm afraid this is true, I can't get my Revelation 2.5x Barlow to reach focus with eyepieces or my planetary/Lunar camera if I use the scope as intended, but there is a work around! :) Just drop the truss rods about 3/4" and lock them in that slightly lower position. Last night I was observing the Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with my Explore Scientific 10mm LER and Barlow, plus I imaged the Moon, Jupiter, and even the Ring nebula as it drifted by with my ZWO ASI385MC, so it's a pretty cool work around :)
@@gravelking2.071 Think of a situation where we both have the above telescope to image say Saturn. You choose to have the truss rods fully extended because your worried about losing a small amount of aperture from the the edge of the primary mirror but you can't focus Saturn. I choose to drop the truss rods down a little bit to reach sharp focus, but in doing so sacrifice a touch of aperture. Who produces the better image?
@@DagonFF possibly yes. You would need to find a focuser that both fits the bracket, and is light enough not to bend the bracket which is only fixed at one end. The tape is just quick, cheap and easy.
I've seen people mount the Heritage 150p optical tube on the AZ-GTI so that wont be a problem, but I can't weigh it for you because I no longer have the scope. It was a fun 15 or so months with this scope but time to try other things :)
I am struggling between this one and zhumell 130. The reason why is that the weight. I suspect my friend might be traveling with this. Or he may not . One is 4kg (skywatcher). 10kg (zhumell z130)feels like zhumell is more sturdy . But if traveling with it. Say. . walking to the mountain or .. to a different location seems to be ... Difficult and un-doable.
May i ask which lense did you use to view Saturn and Jupiter? i only have 10mm, is it sufficient to view Saturn's ring and Jupiter's moon? or shud i upgrade to 5mm? Ive just have my 150p.
Hi Kenneth, I do most my viewing on screen via a ZWO astronomy camera so I can share what I see, but when treating myself to some time at the eyepiece I use a 6mm Explore scientific, or one of my Plossl eyepieces with a Barlow lens e.g a 12 mm Plossl with a 2.5x Barlow giving the equivalent of a 4.8mm @ 156x. Your 10mm will only give 75x magnification so the planets will appear both small and bright, so it would be tricky to resolve a lot of detail. A 5-6mm would be better. 150x is a good mag for average seeing conditions for planetary viewing.
@@Astrolavista thanks for your reply. Yes it's in my mind now to get the 5mm so i could have good viewing of the planets and its details. However, where do you get the Plossl eyepieces?
@@kennethgan7431 Before I suggest a supplier. can I just check which country you're based in Kenneth? One thing you should know about Plossls is that their eye relief and eye lens size scales with focal length, so anything below about 10mm can be uncomfortable to use as you need to jam your eye right in there. Not great if you wear glasses! I personally don't own any Plossls below 12mm for this reason, but you can use a Barlow lens with lenses to increase the mag and it wont effect the eye relief. This is what I do. An example of a comfortable 5mm eyepiece with a large eye lens and plenty of eye relief would be something like a BST Starguider, or Skywatcher planetary eyepieces. These universally get great reviews, my father in law owns the full set of StarGuider's and loves them. I've owned a few over the years and only sold them to buy more expensive eyepieces, although the expensive eyepieces weren't hugely better in my opinion, just a bigger field of view and maybe a touch less scatter. Diminishing returns and all that. Here's a link to some eyepieces in the UK at least: www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces/ref/diyastro/ www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-eyepieces/skywatcher-uwa-planetary-eyepieces/ref/diyastro/ Below are the sharpest for the money, but not as comfortable to use: www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-planetarium/baader-classic-ortho-bco-eyepiece/ref/diyastro/
Hi there! No unfortunately you can't use open tube telescopes for solar and the top of the telescope where a solar filter would go isn't round owing to the truss rod mounting points. You would need to make a light shroud to fully conceal any gaps then make a bespoke solar filter using solar film: www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/baader-astrosolar-safety-film-nd-50/ref/astrolavista/ it probably goes without saying to be super careful when observing the Sun but I will say it anyway to be sure :)
I've still got the 130p that I brought years ago, it gets little to no use. The main thing that lets it down is the focuser, is to put it politely, rubbish and other than what you've done there is no way of modding/upgrading to a better one. Skywatcher have built this scope to a budget but I'd have actually paid more for the scope with a better focuser as they have a very good 5"inch mirror. one of these days I'll use the mirror to build a better scope.
Just curious why a light shroud was not built in at the time of manufacture. Am I missing anything obvious. I realise potential cost implications, but it just seems to me a relatively small design/manufacture step.
You had me cringing. Don't mess with stuff near the end of the tube when it is pointing up. One slip and you could mess up your primary mirror. Placing the tube in a horizontal position is much safer.
I'm glad you gave advice on leveling your scope before poking anything heavy down the tube, as I have made that mistake in the past and got the damage mirror to prove it.
Great mod btw, well executed, stay safe friend.
Thanks! You're not alone. I once unscrewed a plate on the inside of an 8" Dob. I didn't even think about the possibility of dropping it for some reason until I did! Dinged the mirror of course. Stay safe buddy!
Just got the Virtuoso 150P for Christmas. Excellent tutorial! Much appreciated!
I just got a Sky-Watcher Virtuoso GTi 150p and followed your instructions to improve the focuser and the build the light shroud. They were very helpful. Thank you very much. I like your RUclips channel.
Thanks Marcos! I'm glad the video was helpful.
I just purchased a 130 heritage and this video was great for mods ideas great execution and humorous montage! saved for later! thanks!
Great mod. I used a thin yoga mat material cut similarly as in your video for my 130P 5” Skywatcher Heritage and it works beautifully. The yoga mat adds insulating properties, is already matt finished so anti-glare and it allows for retraction without damaging the mirrors. Thank you for your informative video!
Light shroud dimensions: Skywatcher 150P 560mm x 330mm.
Thanks for this great mod and instructional video!
Very welcome!
Knowing me I'm probably going to mess up the measurements 😂 i don't even have the telescope yet, i just like watching these videos to prepare myself to modify it when i do eventually buy it. Great work friend!
Hello from Brooklyn, New York.I wanna thank you for your great vids, especially on the 150P, my new(and first) telescope! Great mods. I'm finding all kinds of ways to tweak this scope myself, (every bit counts!) Thanks so much, keep up the good work!
Hey thanks John! Much appreciated, and keep on tweaking, that's part of the fun :)
Have you tried Floyd Bennett Field or Prospect Park for some semi-dark skies??
Thank you ever so much for such an informative video.
I am rather terrible with anything crafty, so this was extremely helpful, and now my telescope possesses the delightful contrast it unequivocally deserves.
I send my warm gratitude to you. 🤝
You're very welcome, I'm glad it helped :)
Thanks for making this video. I just got a Heritage 150p and performed these two mods today. I hope to test them out on the next clear night.
Thank you very much sir! My OneSky is finally enroute after two months back order, this video is very helpful, something I wouldn't have thought about 😀
Glad the video helped, and that you're finally getting your scope!
Fantastic idea and very well explained on how to do it! I fitted this to my telescope today and I'm about to go out and enjoy the benefits! Thank you!
You're welcome, enjoy :)
@@Astrolavista thank you! I actually managed to record the moon drift across my telescope the same night and it turned out so very well!
Love your videos, very helpful, keep it up!
Thanks for this video.
I suggest using carpet tape instead of Velcro. Especially around the telescope. This allows you to lower the foam very low and the top cover closes completely.
Great tip!
I did this in the woods camping last year with a usb rechargeable hot glue gun! Tested before and after in WV darkish skies it really helped! I Also made a dew/reflection shield out of spare foam somewhat conical and longer on one side to help eliminate glare from lights or the moon getting into the business end. My focuser hole was a afterthought also. Have a good Clear Skies!
Hey Astrobeard, Glad it made a difference, I thought so too last night. p.s. I'm super impressed with how prepared you are on your camping trips with the USB glue gun! Maybe there are a few mods left to do, I haven't done anything with the secondary yet.
Great video! I saw another guy put a rectangle piece over the focuser area around the eyepiece to prevent light leakage from around the focuser.
Hi! I have just got this telescope and have been enjoying looking at Jupiter and the moon. However, I just got a ASI224mc and can only seem to focus with the Barlow x2 in. Do I need a spacer or something for the camera to achieve focus? If so, do you have any recommendations? Many thanks and keep up the good work (the shroud works great btw)
Hey congrats on the new scope, I hope you enjoy it! The Astro Essentials low profile camera adapter may be worth a go; it will help move the sensor further into the focuser: www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/astro-essentials-low-profile-camera-adapter-for-zwo-planetary-cameras/ref/astrolavista/ Otherwise you can try dropping the truss rods down an inch which will push the focal plane further out of the focuser...the only down side being light from the edge of the primary mirror will miss the secondary mirror so it effectively stops down the optics a touch E.g. instead of being a 150mm f/5, it will be closer to 140mm f5.4
Thanks for the advice! Will check this out now 😊
Both of these mods are very easy but lifesavers, especially the focuser. I was having trouble collimating my 130p because of the wobble.
Very good craftsmanship and nice music. Just ordered materials and will give it a try when such arrives.
I know this is three years old but I just got my first telescope a sky watcher 150p
I live in the city ( small fail) but just tried it tonight and the moon was stupid bright… like almost looking at the sun bright. The scope thingy is not lining up with the viewfinder ( I am stupid new to this.) any way to fix this or is that just how it works? Ugh lol
Hi there, you can screw a 1.25" Moon filter to the bottom of your eyepieces to reduce the glare of the Moon and increase contrast: www.firstlightoptics.com/moon-neutral-density-filters/astro-essentials-nd96-0-9-1-25-moon-filter/ref/astrolavista/ and if you move the red dot finder forwards on the stalk, it should sit more true, allowing you to use the adjustments to align the red dot with the eyepiece view through the telescope. I think I remember this being the solution as I had the same problem.
Great video!! It looks easy, which means it's not... for me. Seriously, thanks for sharing this with us.
Thank you for this video. The mods look like they make sense, and not too hard. Glad you include metric measurements, for those of us over here in the 21st century in Europe! I have the 150 on order waiting for delivery as my first telescope since i was a kid.
You're welcome Benedict, enjoy the scope when it arrives!
Nobody actually cares that you're European. For reference in future 😉
Nice and cheap solution for the light shroud, I could have totally made something like it for my 10" skywatcher goto dobsonian, but I bought a light shroud before seeing this video.
Thanks for this vid. I’ve done both mods and they actually work! I admit a 2nd attempt was needed. Tip: the Velcro on the shroud will bend outwards so may come off so a bit of (super) glue may help. Thanks again
Cheers Paul, glad it helped and thanks for the tip.
Thanks for this Video. I just tried out your mods and it worked very well. Additionaly I plached some Teflon Tape to the base of the rockerbox. Now it moves much smoother.
Great tip! Cheers :)
I watched this video 3 times in anticipation of my 150p. I made the foam cut out, was so proud that I remembered to cut a hole out for the eyepiece.
And then I forgot that the cap needs to go on so my eyepiece hole is half an inch lower now haha. Ah well, it's just gonna be a slightly longer hole.
Thanks for the vid!
You're only Human Haiioo, enjoy the new scope!
Thank you! Took it out today for the first time with the light shield and it certainly made a difference. Not huge but still noticeable, especially in a busy neighborhood.
Thanks for these tips, really helps someone get into astronomy and make it a fun hobby.
I would be worried about debris from your tube addition getting on the mirror. Now that you've used it a while, what are your thoughts?
Thanks for sharing. I have the Astronomers Without Border 130 version of this scope. Using the Pi formula, i calculated around 20" and 11". Looking forward to any astrophotography you will do with this scope.
Thanks. I've done a bit of imaging so far and just needed to drop the truss rods down an inch to reach focus but it worked well. I'm just waiting to get a few more images together before I do a video on that one . Cheers!
Well done. I picked one up.today and it is my first telescope. Are their any other lenses options available to zoom I'm further?
Congrats on the new scope, I hope you enjoy it :) The focuser takes standard 1.25" eyepieces so there is plenty of choice out there. A 5mm eyepiece will give you 150x which will be good for getting up close to the planets and the Moon. I'll link you a couple of good examples below:
www.firstlightoptics.com/stellalyra-eyepieces/stellalyra-5mm-125-ler-eyepiece/ref/astrolavista/
www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces/bst-starguider-60-5mm-ed-eyepiece/ref/astrolavista/
@@Astrolavista thanks, do you recommend the 5mm or get a 2x barlow?
Great video. My question - about the length of the screen. Can I make the screen shorter? I'm worried I might hit the screen in the primary mirror.
Hi, yes! it just needs to be long enough to reach inside the bottom section when the telescope is fully extended. It's been a little while since I made the video but I think I talk about this subject at some point. When my Heritage 150p is in the collapsed position the light shroud clears the primary mirror by a good margin so you will be just fine :)
Hello Chris,
I am looking to buy the Skywatcher 150p soon, mostly because I want something portable yet sturdy and its in a pretty good price range. These mods seem great so I will likely use them as well. I was wondering though if it may be necessary to buy additional accessories? I am thinking of getting a 2 or 3x Barlow lense for additional magnification, seems possible from what I'm reading in the comments. Do you have any suggestions for which would be better, and would I need to think about buying filters as well for better viewing?
Cheers in advance
Hi Jurre, for the money it would be really hard to find better optics so I think you would be making a good choice. If you're interested in viewing or imaging the planets then a 2x Barlow would be a good choice to increase your focal length. I use a 2.5x Barlow to view and image the planets with the Heritage 150p. I wouldn't worry about filters for now unless you spend a lot of time viewing the Moon in which case a Moon filter would help take away some of the intense glare for better contrast and more comfortable viewing. I've made a number of videos based around the Heritage 150p if you've not seen them already? I've even had surprisingly good look imaging the planets with it. Not the easiest scope to image with but it's impressed me :)
@@Astrolavista Thanks for the help! I think I'll look into the Barlows and decide on 2x or 2.5x when I've toyed with the telescope a bit. And I will check your other videos on the telescope as well, wasn't aware of them!
Thanks very helpful video. I have my 130p and will be making these mods this week. Do you have a video on stacking and editing images? I had my first go last night on registax ad struggled but got there in the end. More advise from someone with experience would make life so much easier.
You're very welcome :) Yes indeed! My home page is divided into sections/topics, here is the tutorial section: ruclips.net/p/PLxT-jDX21CisfHZgeFqm4INRqfstx2BB2
@@Astrolavista Thank you
Note to self - (53.4cm) or C56cm (to allow for velcro) x H33cm
I've seen other astronomers use black duct tape instead of velcro to avoid making obstruction and also making another shield for the focus tube.
Have you tried the OTA on a different mount? Have had this for about a year and looking whether it can go on a goto mount. Let me know your thoughts!
I'm planning on mounting the Heritage on my EXOS2 mount shortly, and there is no problem doing so because it has a Vixen dovetail which is fairly universal for modern mounts :) A guy I know from Stargazers Lounge uses his Heritage with various mounts also. Here is a link: stargazerslounge.com/topic/357099-first-light-with-the-sky-watcher-heritage-150p/
@@Astrolavista Great thinking of getting that very same mount! Let me know how it goes when you get round to mounting it! 👍
Thanks for the tips. The PTFE tape seems to rip and break off. Have you faced the issue? Any suggestions on how to keep the helical focuser more stable?
No worries. The PTFE tape is the only way I know of. The wider tape seems to work better, and you need to wrap just the right amount for the best result. It's also something you have to re new every so often so it's far from ideal. There's not much room for improvement with the loose plastic helical focuser, it's the Heritages Achilles heel.
@@Astrolavista thanks I was trying to collimate using a laser collimater and just a few turns of the helical focuser moved the dot quite a bit. Even the slight jiggle after adding the tape makes the dot move. I wonder how much impact this has on quality of image through the scope
I am looking at getting one of those but somebody said the mounting for the focuser is quite weak and the weight of a barlow could bend it. Does it seem that flimsy?
I don't like the loose helical focusers on the Heritage scopes but it wont bend under the weight of a Barlow lens. I used quite heavy eyepieces when I owned this scope with and without Barlow's.
I have an 8 inch Dob, but I love modding things, so maybe I will get one of these so I can mod it!
That's the spirit!
Nicely done! Thank you for the tips!
No problem 👍
Hello and Merry Christmas! I also have this telescope and was thinking of making this shroud, but I hesitate a bit, thinking about the outside elements. Would it not change its shape if it is exposed to frost? I'm afraid I could damage the mirrors if there is some lack of attention, during daylight and especially in the dark. Thanks for your very useful videos and thanks in advance for your time if you see and reply to this comment! :)
Merry Christmas :) I had my shroud on for 18 months with no issues so I think it would be ok. It's only foam so it wont damage the mirror, plus modern mirrors have an overcoat layer to protect them. Cheers :)
Dude!! Ok, I'm from California and you from the UK, so, Sir Dude! I really appreciate this video. I just got the AWB 130, and have been reading about these mods on Starry Night, but this video helps immensely. Thank you! My next purchase will be a 2X Barlow.... Any thoughts on the Celestron Omni 2X Barlow?
Thanks Man, Glad the video helped :) lol I think Sir Dude would make for a great You Tube name.....tempted :D I've owned Celestron OMNI Plossl eyepieces and they were well made and optically good, therefore I think the Barlow should be good too. A 2x is also very easy to work out your magnification too :)
@@Astrolavista Fantastic! What a timely response too... I just saw some Celestron Plossl's in 13mm and 40mm for sale pretty cheap. going to try to snatch them up, along with a new Omni Barlow! Appreciate your channel, Sir Dude. Ive been binging, lol. Keep up the great work!
Cool DIY shroud and tips Chris!!
Thanks Vineeth, I'm looking forward to trying it out under the stars. Maybe tonight, I need to check the forecast.
Hey there Chris, I'm finally getting around to making a shroud! Do you think 5mm foamboard would also work? Again, thanks for recommending this scope, loving it so far.
Hi Jurre, it would work if it's flexible enough to roll into a tube shape, it just depends on how stiff it is? The word 'board' suggests that it might be too stiff? Glad you're loving the scope! :)
Hi Chris, I cant seem to find the foam sheet size (50cmx70cm)you linked to here in the US. Question.. So would you say the size of the piece of foam I need is about 22x13in or 560x330mm?
Hi great video!thank you very much.can you tell what exact material is the foam because i cant find it in greece.i found some alternatives foam sheets but they tell me that if i create a cylinder it will crush thank again.
Hi, it was 2mm thick craft foam from a place called hobby craft in the UK.
Can that type of focuser deal with a phone adapter for some basic imaging, it doesnt look promising. I am considering on buying 130p or 150p as a grab and go, wouldn't want to brake the focuser of when taking pictures..
Hey Predrag, it really isn't the best focuser without doing the PTFE tape mod, there is a lot of play and it's quite loose so easily turns. Because a phone attaches at one end where the lens is, it would act like a big lever and constantly hang down under gravity. I think it could work if you used the PTFE plumbers tape because you could wrap enough around the thread such that it becomes fairly stiff to turn, then it should hold....but give me a rack and pinion focuser any day!
Are there any reasons not to do these? Why don’t the scopes come with these mods?
Hi, the only reason I can think of (why not to do it) is that the plumbers tape can sometimes come off, but the light shroud is a great upgrade :) I don't think many truss rod Dobsonian telescope come with shrouds so I can kind of get that they would leave that up to the user, but why they leave so much slack on the helical focuser is any ones guess?I don't understand it myself.
Great mods, indeed! Have installed them on my own 150P, now i have to wait for CS to see the improvement. :-)
Good luck!
Interesting modification there 👌🔭
Thanks. Looking forward to playing with the scope a bit more :) I have an idea or two.
Great video, will do these once my 150P arrives. Another thing I've picked up in different places is that the edges of the secondary mirror should be blackened to reduce reflections - with a black marker, or ideally with black velvet. It's also been suggested that lining the inside of the tube with velvet would further cut down on reflections and increase contrast.
I've also thought about ways to attach a 2" eyepiece instead of the 1.25" one, but that seems to be a tad beyond my DIY skill :D
What telescope do you have 👌
@@Nottsboy24 None so far :D I ordered the one in the video (Skywatcher Heritage 150P) and it should arrive in a week or so. I just tried to find all the information on it that I could, and made a list of modifications and adjustments that others have made and recommended.
@@AGH331 ok cool 👌
Hi AGH331, congrats on ordering the Heritage 150p. I have a few videos on that scope so far if you want to check them out. Yes edge blackening lenses and mirrors is another good little mod to perform to help with contrast, and flocking (black velvet) too! lol I think a 2" focuser mod is beyond me also! I'm not sure the truss rods would take 2" eyepieces so it's probably for the best :D p.s. just brought back memories of the heaviest eyepiece I ever owned. The Maxvision 40mm 68 degrees at a whopping 1.3kg!
Can someone help me? Which is better:heritage 130p or Orion StarBlast 4.5 Astro?
I don’t have this telescope (yet) but this video was entertaining and instructive on how to improve it should I take the plunge and buy one. Thank you!
Cheers George! I appreciate the feedback :)
Where did you get that black material and what it is? I'm looking in different places but can't find anything similar...
HI Artin, it's A2 craft foam, here's a link :) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A2-Giant-Foam-Sheets-for-Arts-Craft-Projects/302450788780?hash=item466b78c9ac:g:vdEAAOSwf1ReqfTU
I've now linked it in the description, cheers :)
@@Astrolavista Thanks!!
great mods, i also like to put dewcap extending another 8" beyond the front as the 2nd mirror can get dewed up in the dewy months. Most people think dew caps for stc/mak's but it also helps for reflectors where the mirror is close the top of the tube. PS i also have a astro channel mainly on telescopes and reviews etc. i will sub to you joe
You're absolutely right Joe, secondaries on reflectors definitely dew up so you're right to use a dew shield. I used to have SCT's and moved to an RC thinking I could lose the dew shield....no chance lol
The PTF tape worked on my 130p but it does sometimes shed flakes.
I bought a 150p Virtuoso, many reasons and calculations went into this and it turns out to be the most value package out of all the GTI and Go2 options.
Anyways two things that stand out. Helical focuser on the 150p has more friction when focusing, its tight and while my 130p is flocked, the original paint job looked like that grey colour seen in the ST80 but the paint is jet black with a texture that feels like sandpaper on my 150p.
The Virtuoso has the same 150p tube as yours but i do wonder if Skywatcher made some modifications since you bought yours because PTF tape isn't required and neither is flocking or if it's because it's the Virtuoso version. The quality just feels more premium on the 150p.
Hopefully they have made changes like you say, the helical focuser was loose and sloppy on the Heritage 150p when I had one so good to hear this has potentially changed.
@@Astrolavista That was the first thing i checked when i got it, we'll see how long it stays that way and seems to hold large eyepieces like my 100 degree APM eyepieces without issue but does look a bit odd seeing them sticking out the side. My only minor, very minor complaint if i had one, is the red dot finderscope placement being right behind the eyepiece, ok if viewing from the right side but not the left. Now i am just looking for ways to pimp it out lol.
Just did these modifications. Very helpful step by step. Thank you!
You're welcome 🙂
Hi Chris, in this video and the link in description you have 3mm thick foam, but in the comments and over on SGL you've said 2mm. Would you be able to say which one is better? Thanks
Hi James, I can't remember what I used at the time, I'm guessing I would have linked to the stuff I was using for the video in which case it must be 3mm. I probably should have left the thickness blank, sorry for the confusion I'm sure either is fine.
Wow this is very nicely done !!!? Genius !
Thank you very much! Glad you liked it :)
Great mod and great video. I'm considering the 130p as my first scope and was wondering about all that open space when it is in that extended position.
I am struggling between this one of zhumell z130 because seems like it is better .more solid . But of course it is heavier . 10kg vs Hertiage one is 4kg . It is a gift for someone I dont know what to choose
@@ericaroundtheworld The Heritage 130p the base alone is about 4KG and the tube is about 3KG. The Zhumel was the combined weight, the Heritage 130p combined weight is about 7KG. The Zhumel costs more than the Heritage 150p in the UK.
Super pour ce tuto bien réalisé, je viens de recevoir le matériel et je vais vite l'installer. Merci pour les conseils
tu es le bienvenu :)
Are you happy with your purchase?
Yes, you get a good 6" of aperture for the money and the mount is nice and easy to use and sturdy. I'm not keen on the helical focuser but you can't have everything at this price point. Overall it was a good buy.
Hi, i really like the shroud you made. I have a 130p heritage so want to do those mods. How thick in mm is the black foam sheet you use?
Thanks Paul, it's just 2mm thick craft foam from Fleabay.
Thats great, thanks.👍
Thats great, thanks.👍
Very clever! Thanks for posting your video!!
would this mod allow it to be safe for solar eclipse viewing? (with a solar filter in the front?)
The secondary mirror housing is oval because of the truss rods so I'm not sure that a conventional round solar filter will fit securely. You may need to make a bespoke filter from Baader solar film to test it out. Theoretically as long as the sides are covered and you have a solar filter securely mounted to the front you should be fine, however I can't promise as I've not tested it.
Hi I'm thinking of getting one of these for use on my celestron nexstar 4se mount as I think it within the mounts capability. What do you think?
I know the mount you have well Paul, both a 4SE and 5SE have passed through my hands over the years. It's a very nice little mount but I honestly doubt there would be enough clearance for such a large optical tube as the 150p. I think if you slewed anywhere near zenith it would collide with the mount. The dovetail is short also so you can't get round this by moving the OTA further forward either. I once stuck a 90mm f6 refractor on a 4SE mount and I couldn't reach zenith with that either.
Good idea with the PTFE tape Chris, ha I'd of forgot the hole for the eyepiece too lol
Thanks Adz, I stood back all proud then it dawned on me lol
Hi everyone. Great Video and solutions. By the way does anyone know how to remove primary mirror to clean?
I tried to unscrew bottom side screws but "bottom cup with primary mirror" seemed to be sealed or glued :( so I don't know how to clean Primary Mirror.
Hi Johann, I have a video where I clean the primary mirror for the Heritage 150p here which might be helpful: ruclips.net/video/BMX72Gjju9M/видео.html
Here Italy, i have the Skywatcher heritage 130/650 (from AMAZON for only 188 Euros - the prize). Parabolic mirror high quality. Sharp Images, fantastic Jupiter and Saturn.
Hi Chris. Very enjoyable video to watch and learn 2 simple mods! We all make mistakes as we are only human. Few times when I was doing astrophotography with my Canon 700D DSLR I kept getting black shots then I thought what's wrong? Then I thought lens cap where is it? Still on lens. You ever thought of putting your phone camera up to eye piece and taking shot of moon? I've ordered that planetary camera from first light optics so it's a new addition to my astrophotography setup! What light pollution filter should I go for? This little scope you have looks so good and these mods cost little and easy to do for yourself. Take care and stay safe!
Cheers John, the lens cap thing is a classic, we've all done it :) I would use a smart phone if I didn't have dedicated planetary cameras. Congrats on the ASI120mc, it's a fab planetary camera for the money, You won't need a light polution filter for planets and the Moon because this are bright objects which take very short exposures, but I see ZWO have started using clear optical windows for their cameras so you will benefit from a UV/IR cut filter. I've linked one below. I use the Baader UV/IR cut but it's about double the price, so if I hadn't managed to pick it up second hand I would have bought the ZWO filter: www.firstlightoptics.com/uv-ir-filters/zwo-1-25inch-iruv-cut-filter.html Clear skies!
Brilliant work!
Thanks Keith :)
Thanks Man works great now i just need the clouds to feck off. A tip for anyone else you need 3mm EVA foam not neoprene wetsuit material which I managed to order....too floppy.
Hi mate. What would be the best for deep sky photography? A 120mm achromatic refractor or a 150mm reflector? Both would be F5 and both are on an eq3-2 mount and tripod. Also, Transportabilty. Thanks for any advice.
HI Alan, doh! I just wrote out a massive reply and it got lost, so I'll keep it short second time around lol The best 150mm f5 would be this one: www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-150p-ds-ota.html
although on an EQ3 I would go with the 130pds as the focal length is a tad shorter so it will be easier for the mount to track for longer. For DSO imaging you ideally want to put most the money into the mount and keep the focal length short so you're not smearing photons across your camera sensor with tracking errors. Tracking with the Earths rotation is the most critical thing with DSO imaging.
@@Astrolavista Cheers, mate.
Both would be far too large for an EQ3-2 mount for astrophotography. In addition the achromat would show serious chromatic aberrations. Most people use small ED or APOs on very sturdy mounts for astrophotography, alternatively you could go for a smaller reflector (e.g. 130 mm Newton). Or you could simply start with a photographic tracking mount, DSLR/DSLM and lens - the pictures you can get that way are still stunning (see Astrobackyards channel for a video on photographing the Orion and Horsehead Nebulae with such a set-up).
To sum it up, astrophotography is complicated, expensive, and the mount is much more important than the telescope you put on it.
@@AGH331 Yes indeed, good advice. A star tracker particularly with a lens is by far the cheapest and easiest way to getting good results with DSO imaging. I don't object to people starting with a 150p EQ3 and motor drive though, I managed to get 60 second subs out of mine which isn't bad for 750mm focal length, so it's not the worst place to start. I actually think the 150p EQ3 is a good all rounder. The ST120 would have been way worse, I bought one and moved it one pretty quickly. Way too much CA. I think the ST102 is better, I'm playing with one of those at the moment. I take it you didn't have so much luck with your EQ3?
10:03 if I did this I would be like: YUPP loadssss of contrast there, nice nice blacks!! OH oh I don't see anything
Dear Chris, do you use any barlows with this scope? I heard many won't work due to the short focusser.
HI Arendom, I'm afraid this is true, I can't get my Revelation 2.5x Barlow to reach focus with eyepieces or my planetary/Lunar camera if I use the scope as intended, but there is a work around! :) Just drop the truss rods about 3/4" and lock them in that slightly lower position. Last night I was observing the Moon, Jupiter, and Saturn with my Explore Scientific 10mm LER and Barlow, plus I imaged the Moon, Jupiter, and even the Ring nebula as it drifted by with my ZWO ASI385MC, so it's a pretty cool work around :)
@@Astrolavista but doing so you cut your aperture, which is not good when it comes to planets, is it?
@@gravelking2.071 Think of a situation where we both have the above telescope to image say Saturn. You choose to have the truss rods fully extended because your worried about losing a small amount of aperture from the the edge of the primary mirror but you can't focus Saturn. I choose to drop the truss rods down a little bit to reach sharp focus, but in doing so sacrifice a touch of aperture. Who produces the better image?
@@Astrolavista Can changing the focuser fix the problem?
@@DagonFF possibly yes. You would need to find a focuser that both fits the bracket, and is light enough not to bend the bracket which is only fixed at one end. The tape is just quick, cheap and easy.
Whats the weight of the telescope without the mount and can i take it of and use it on a AZ-GTi mount?
I've seen people mount the Heritage 150p optical tube on the AZ-GTI so that wont be a problem, but I can't weigh it for you because I no longer have the scope. It was a fun 15 or so months with this scope but time to try other things :)
@@Astrolavista How did you like it during those 15 months.
I am struggling between this one and zhumell 130. The reason why is that the weight. I suspect my friend might be traveling with this. Or he may not . One is 4kg (skywatcher). 10kg (zhumell z130)feels like zhumell is more sturdy . But if traveling with it. Say. . walking to the mountain or .. to a different location seems to be ... Difficult and un-doable.
May i ask which lense did you use to view Saturn and Jupiter? i only have 10mm, is it sufficient to view Saturn's ring and Jupiter's moon? or shud i upgrade to 5mm? Ive just have my 150p.
Hi Kenneth, I do most my viewing on screen via a ZWO astronomy camera so I can share what I see, but when treating myself to some time at the eyepiece I use a 6mm Explore scientific, or one of my Plossl eyepieces with a Barlow lens e.g a 12 mm Plossl with a 2.5x Barlow giving the equivalent of a 4.8mm @ 156x. Your 10mm will only give 75x magnification so the planets will appear both small and bright, so it would be tricky to resolve a lot of detail. A 5-6mm would be better. 150x is a good mag for average seeing conditions for planetary viewing.
@@Astrolavista thanks for your reply. Yes it's in my mind now to get the 5mm so i could have good viewing of the planets and its details. However, where do you get the Plossl eyepieces?
@@kennethgan7431 Before I suggest a supplier. can I just check which country you're based in Kenneth? One thing you should know about Plossls is that their eye relief and eye lens size scales with focal length, so anything below about 10mm can be uncomfortable to use as you need to jam your eye right in there. Not great if you wear glasses! I personally don't own any Plossls below 12mm for this reason, but you can use a Barlow lens with lenses to increase the mag and it wont effect the eye relief. This is what I do. An example of a comfortable 5mm eyepiece with a large eye lens and plenty of eye relief would be something like a BST Starguider, or Skywatcher planetary eyepieces. These universally get great reviews, my father in law owns the full set of StarGuider's and loves them. I've owned a few over the years and only sold them to buy more expensive eyepieces, although the expensive eyepieces weren't hugely better in my opinion, just a bigger field of view and maybe a touch less scatter. Diminishing returns and all that. Here's a link to some eyepieces in the UK at least:
www.firstlightoptics.com/bst-starguider-eyepieces/ref/diyastro/
www.firstlightoptics.com/skywatcher-eyepieces/skywatcher-uwa-planetary-eyepieces/ref/diyastro/
Below are the sharpest for the money, but not as comfortable to use:
www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-planetarium/baader-classic-ortho-bco-eyepiece/ref/diyastro/
Is there any solar filter on this telescope?
Hi there! No unfortunately you can't use open tube telescopes for solar and the top of the telescope where a solar filter would go isn't round owing to the truss rod mounting points. You would need to make a light shroud to fully conceal any gaps then make a bespoke solar filter using solar film: www.firstlightoptics.com/solar-filters/baader-astrosolar-safety-film-nd-50/ref/astrolavista/ it probably goes without saying to be super careful when observing the Sun but I will say it anyway to be sure :)
Interesting mod. Thanks
Nice work !
Brilliant! Thanks!
I've still got the 130p that I brought years ago, it gets little to no use. The main thing that lets it down is the focuser, is to put it politely, rubbish and other than what you've done there is no way of modding/upgrading to a better one. Skywatcher have built this scope to a budget but I'd have actually paid more for the scope with a better focuser as they have a very good 5"inch mirror. one of these days I'll use the mirror to build a better scope.
does the shroud not touch the primary mirror and damage it???
No it doesn't touch the primary mirror but if you made a shroud at it does you can just make it a touch shorter.
And they say you don't need math haha. Good tips, nice quality of the video
Fun fact : for the aperture measurements to be more accurate, use 3.1415 instead of 3.142.
Could you put the dimension for the light shroud ,thanks
I would measure it for you only I sold the Heritage 150p a couple of years back, sorry.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Just curious why a light shroud was not built in at the time of manufacture. Am I missing anything obvious. I realise potential cost implications, but it just seems to me a relatively small design/manufacture step.
I think we all have the same thought!
@@Astrolavista ha ha, thanks. I wondered if it was just me having a Homer Simpson moment.
Happy gazing!
No, It's anti-seize tape, it's on the pipe so it can be taken off later , Just letting you know
Why didnt Sky-Watcher just build it like that in the first place? It looks really cool too!
Thanks! I agree they should :) Whilst they're at it they could also take some of the slack out of the helical focuser!
You had me cringing. Don't mess with stuff near the end of the tube when it is pointing up. One slip and you could mess up your primary mirror. Placing the tube in a horizontal position is much safer.
Hi Mark, you're right and I even talk about this in the video. Years ago a dropped a screw on a primary mirror and marked it.
@@Astrolavista Pin his comment!
Oh goddamit Im too stupid to do math and Ive never built anything in me life. But I do need that shroud, I can barely see anything.
Brilliant! Thanks.