I feel quite relieved that when I went to have my first bespoke experience after watching a lot of your videos and a few from other content creators I had a well formed idea of what I wanted. I have gone a slightly a slightly different path than you suggested due to not having to wear a suit for work. I started with a sports jacket going in with the idea of it being green and a light tweed, but was talked into brown with large blue squares and now I am having my first proper blue suit made it has a pattern but from a distance it won't be visible. My tailors even made the comment on my sports jacket that they where impressed on my knowledge and knowing roughly what I wanted as most of the people they get for their first one they said didn't have much of an idea which made it more difficult for them to give them exactly what they wanted. So once again thank you for imparting yours and your wife's experience into such well made videos I look forward to the next from a 33y new sartorialist.
Thank you so much Matthew for sharing your experience. And of course, if you like bold patterns on fabrics, go for it. The sartorial journey is not a science, it's an adventure! Stay well and safe, Hugo
Hi Hugo! Respect from India. Thank you for being a Huge Inspiration! I am 28, and I'm just done with the first fitting of my bespoke suit from my family tailor. A 6*1 full floating canvas construction with deconstructed Spalla Camicia Shoulders (Italy is closer to our tropical climate). I respect you speaking about your roots being French and hence I went ahead with an Indian 250 gm Ecru Hemp Fabric (Mostly India sources the linen thread from Europe, but in hemp they are grown in Uttarakhand and are locally woven). And to compliment them a violet handloom silk tie with Ikat pattern (A tribal dyeing from the South) and a White Khadi (Handloom Cotton) kerchief as a pocket square. You are true Hugo! The joy is there in anticipating.. :) You should visit India someday! It is the land of Cashmere and Silk. Regards, Siddhant
Thank you Hugo for your helpful tips that you have been sharing with us for years. Your words mean a lot and I think that young men in search of a role model should just type in Sartorial Talks and enjoy your and your wonderful wife s wisdom. Happy Easter to everyone that will celebrate it and best and warmest regards to the whole world that is currently suffering from this disease.
I don't take fashion advice from anyone. I ignore rules, I ignore trends and wear what I want when I want it. *I'm just here to listen to that charismatic soothing elegant accent of Hugo's!*
Thank you so much Hugo for being such a style inspiration! After watching your videos for months I finally got my first custom suit. I can't quite afford bespoke yet as a 20 year old university student, but I fell so much in love with that garment that I'm having two more made. Luckily a quality suit where I live only costs about 700 euros (made on location by a single guy too, really lucky to have found such a great tailor) . I went for a blue windowpane and prince of Wales because I love patterns. Your videos have helped show how much passion and artistry goes into this beautiful craft, keep up the good work!
Great work as always Hugo (and team)! One additional word of advice for anyone who may see this comment is that not all great tailors have great taste. If you can afford it, I suggest you consider commissioning your first suit at a house with a person whose style you admire. Examples that immediately come to mind include; - The Cifonelli brothers @ Cifonelli in Paris. - Luca Rubinacci @ Rubinacci (both in Naples or Milan) *Note his father has a different style - Andrea Luparelli @ Sartoria Ripense in Rome. - Antonio Liverano and Taka @ Liverano & Liverano in Florence. The amount of options available is often overwhelming, so guidance with stying eliminates much of the guesswork and increases the likelihood you will be satisfied with the end result.
Thanks Rory, it's indeed a wise advice. I would add to your list Gaetano Aloisio in Rome (supremely elegant) and Marc de Luca of Camps de Luca in Paris. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you for this video! I'm still young, just starting my career and will likely get my first bespoke suit soon. This has been very useful. Cheers, Hugo.
Thank you so much for your insight and tips. I am going to get my first bespoke suit made in Vietnam of all places. I am very excited but also nervous and these tips help me enormously. It will help me make the best of my time on this family/sartorial vacation!
Cheers, Hugo! I saw you and Sonya on Kirby's channel, live. You were great, and I love to see these at home linkups to shows, it's so much more intimate. In a sartorial setting, it shows how comfortable it can be, even from home. Stay safe, my friend!
This video will come in handy. I know that I will at least own one bespoke suit in my life time, but probably many more. I am still young and look forward to the day I can get a perfectly fitting 1930s suit. Thank you Hugo.
@@momez9139 - Sorry, for the very late response. I loved it - midnight blue very traditional. Today I pick up a tuxedo from the same artisan. Thank you for your help! Scott B
I'm surprised it took me so long to watch this video. I had been thinking what's involved in bespoke suit-making. Hopefully, I'll be able to get my first next year. Maybe for my birthday! Thank you Hugo for the advice!
I started the video ,,and suddenly its finished!!! Time is flaying when i listen to you my Dear Hugo !)). What a great important tips from an expert ,,and i hope i could use them one day !!. Was great pleasure to see you live with dear Sonya last night and both of you always look elegant. Stay save ,and Happy Easter to both of you , LOVE from Cairo, Egypt.
Great information, Hugo, much appreciated. It's great that people like you still put in a lot of work to educate and help understand the steps and the whole bespoke process therefore make it easier for tailors and clients to communicate as well and as a conclusion, make better and more calibrated garments in the end thanks to this better understanding. Keep it up 😀
Good evening Hugo I hope that this finds you well, may I say how much of a help your vides and advice and knowledge are I helping us all sartorially, and in these very strange times, I have spent many days in my garden enjoying reading your books , so may I thank you for that, so please stay safe to you and all of your loved ones, kind regards your friend Ryan.
Thank you for walking us through the journey of getting a suit made, as I think it's important for (young/new) sartorialists to deepen the understanding of the process to value the artisanship going into the finished product. It will probably still take some time (and exercise) until I'll be able to get into real bespoke tailoring myself, but thanks to you I can start this journey well prepared!
Thank you Hugo, great video! The only thing probably missing are some guidelines on what to expect as a price tag for a tailor in Paris or London. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Hey my friend, the prices are extremely different from a tailor to another, but in a nutshell real bespoke fully handmade (not MTM industrially made), with 3 to 4 fittings, 60 to 75 hours by hand, will start at 3800 euros in Italy and will go way above that in London and Paris. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS many many thanks for the swift reply! Of course it differs from tailor to tailor and also even from country to country but also depends on materials etc. Maybe it would be an idea for a future video, talking about the costs of bespoke suits, shoes, shirts etc. Of course, nobody wants exact prices, that’s isn’t possible, just some rules of thumb.
Thank you for this. I am planning my first bespoke suit hopefully this year. I have an idea in my mind but this videowill seriously help me. Great video
Hey Hugo, said it before, both you and Sonya not only have the knowledge, but the gift of delivery. In particular, Sonya has the crispest diction I've heard outside of a performance setting. Nice! Also, please reprint The Italian Gentleman in large format. I won't be satisfied until my coffee table collapses under the weight.
I agree my wife has a fantastic voice indeed... As for the reprint, I'm afraid the compact edition (updated) is so successful that my publisher will most likely stay with this one for now. But my new book on shoes (published in French for now, soon in English) will probably make your table collapse !! Cheers Harry, Hugo
Thank you, Hugo, for the great advice and insight into the bespoke tailoring process. Your enthusiasm and love for fine tailoring comes through in this video.
Thank you Hugo. I get excited each time I see you have posted a new video. I am in the process of replacing my wardrobe and I have learnt a lot over the past 40 years but not as much as I have since watching Sartorial Talks. Did you have a mentor/inspiration when you started your Sartorial start?
Dear friend, thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Actually I didn't have any mentor... as my father was from that generation who rejected the "codes" of their dads (May 1968 in France). I guess I've been inspired by the Franck Capra films with Stewart, Cooper and Gable. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, Considering the lack of mentor, I thank you then for pioneering the way for many of us. You inspire many of us, and as a result I have started to pass on what I have learnt to my son. Could I please make a suggestion for your consideration - perhaps touch on further the subject relating to accessories (e.g. lapel pins/boutonniere, signet rings, briefcases) ... the items most of us overdo.
Hugo, can you recommend two or three Italian tailors for full custom suits. I need tailors that are willing to work with my Thai silk suit fabrics. I live in Caribbean and wool no matter how light is too hot and cannot handle the wet, humid climate. Silk is much lighter, stronger and handles moisture better than wool. I can also put a lining and still be lighter than the lightest wool. I do like Cesare Antonelli, but I was told they won't work with my Thai silk. thanks, Dan
Thank you for your perspective on bespoke tailoring. I'm hoping to get my first bespoke jacket done later this year when lockdown eases for my close friend's wedding so this really helps!
Thank you Hugo, another interesting video and your manner of presenting is very captivating. This is my favourite channel and whilst I have not yet been able to graduate to my first bespoke suit, although it has been my dream for a decade and more, I was nevertheless pleased to see that in one of your videos there was glimpse of the logo for Vitale Barberie Canonico, having just bought a suit that has material from there. I mentioned you in a post of LinkedIn as there has been a discussion on the value of how to dress in business with one comment saying that the suit should been confined to the stone age. naturally my comment in response was not in agreement. I wish you and Sonya very happy Easter. Thank you again.
Your channel finally convinced me to save up for a true bespoke suit. It'll likely be another few months before I get there, but that's quite alright. You can't be in a hurry when you're after true quality. Have you considered making any videos on the related gentlemanly topics of fragrances and dress watches? Those topics already have huge audiences on RUclips, but most videos are very, should we say, consumeristic. I'd very much appreciate to hear your thoughts and particularly how your philosophy applies to these ways of presenting oneself to the world.
Congratulations Mattias and please take your time (to choose the tailor first, the most important part). As for the fragrances, my son - a perfume specialist - recorded an episode on the subject (that we go online soon); Concerning the watches, I'm not a specialist but we are considering doing an episode on the subject with an expert of strictly from a style perspective. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, what an excellent walk through into the magnificent world of taking care of oneself... A gentleman that takes care of his attire and tailors it to his needs and taste, will most definitely take equal care of his life; his profession; his love, and tailor his moves and decisions accordingly. I am so waiting for this quarantine to be over, to order my first Bespoke suit... You are truly inspiring. Harris
I'll be going in for my first bespoke suit fitting soon at Sartoria Ciccio in Tokyo, glad to have some more advice! Thank you for the guidance and inspiration you've given leading me down the bespoke path 🙏 Cheers! ~Mario, 22 🇺🇸
Customers who have decided to go bespoke for the first time, ought to investigate the house styles first. Find the tailor with a style you like; if you are that new, then a good consultant should be having a conversation with you. How you wear it, what you like. Also, what you want out of it, when are you wearing it? A good consultant can have a solid conversation before the measuring tapes even get used. Colours and patterns can affect the choice of cloth; and feeling the cloth is crucial. There are so many options, when presented with 150 different buttons, it's ok to not know which to pick, but a good consultant can narrow those choices to a manageable 3 to 5 options. Most important for the first time bespoke buyer: someone that will make you feel comfortable. It might take two or three tailors, so be it. This suit is going to last for years, you want it to be a joyful experience every time you put it on.
Would love to hear people's thoughts on whether the fabric weight rule of thumb changes based on the cloth? For example, will 250 gram 50 linen/50 wool quarter lined jacket wear cool enough in summer? Same question question for a quarter lined 265 gram hopsack wool vs a 265 lined worsted wool?
Dear Alexander, of course the type of fabric is also important and blends of linen and wool, but also linen-silk-wool or even linen-silk-cotton can be excellent options for summer (even if they are in the 250gr range). Also the weaving technique (plain weave or Hopsack) are to consider. My rule of thumb did not include this details, otherwise it would not be a rule of thumb ! Yours, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS ,thank you. It is a good rule of thumb. Sorry if the question seemed didactic or silly, I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly and didn't pass up on some good summer sport coats by being too literal (especially since I have never felt open weave suiting fabrics or combination fabrics). Thank you for your answer and patience. I truly appreciate how aware and patient you and Sonya are about helping guide and understand people through their journey. Fantastic videos, and I hope you are both staying safe and healthy - Happy Easter from CA!
I will have to try Neapolitan style maybe, my shoulders are wide and big and I stand at 190cm. You can see in my profile picture...hard to find anything that looks right.
Many thanks Hugo for another great video. Is it possible to provide the lapel width of the jacket you are wear in this video? I like wearing wide lapel and I already have a suit jacket with 3-3.5 inch width but yours look more classic with wider width. Thanks.
I'm having trouble finding a good resource for finding bespoke tailors available based on region. I live in Florida and can't fly to Europe, much less for 3-4 fittings. Is there a forum I can go to?
you can take a flight to New York. there you have branches of European bespoke tailors and some Asian and Farsi tailors and even local American tailors. pretty much anything you want in a suit you can find there. and you can probably shorten the fitting steps by staying a few days in new York. i would say you can get a suit done in 3 domestic flights.
Do you think companies or men in general would be interested in a traveling bespoke suit business where the company comes to you takes 90 of your measurements and does a custom pattern for each customer there’s just one fitting instead of two or three
Hi there! I’m a little confused with the fact You don’t talk about American sartorial traditions on Your channel and especially considering the fact Sonya is an American herself. I could’ve probably missed it but just in case I didn’t, I’m asking are You going to release a video regarding American sartoria, traditional and so called Ivy League styles, cuts, silhouettes, fabrics so on and so forth? Cheers 😊
Dear Andre, without judging the quality of these tailors, one fitting is not bespoke tailoring, two maybe... But normally, three fittings minimum is the rule in the craft. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for the excellent content! What is your opinion on Sid Mashburn (in Atlanta too!) tailoring brand/service? Also, a bit off topic: what is your opinion on Bally shoes? Is it another marked-up brand like Ferragamo or a good shoe maker?
Sid Mashburn's product is decent, although slightly overpriced in my opinion (for an industrial product crafted overseas). Bally used to be a reference in the world of shoes in the past (Swiss quality) but now the brand has become a global brand and has lost its power of attraction among our community (high prices for regular shoes, well done but globally overpriced). Hope it helps, Hugo
Hello Hugo, regarding first bespoke suit is it a good choice a 4 season suit ? considering im living in Rome, where winter is not so cold (4°-5° in few days of January, then 7-8 in December and February) and usually I 'm working in office with controlled temperature. I think a fresco wool can be enough. Thanks and many congratulations for your show
Hey Hugo thank you so much for helping me on my sartorial pass, I’m 25 years old and i will get my first bespoke suit soon ( I will exchange my wardrobe like you years ago). This video came to a perfect time you are a real inspiration and a Rolemodel for me. Greetings from Germany , and stay healthy in this hard times :)
Hi Hugo thanks for the video. I have a question i would be very happy if you would help me. I am 18 years old and I would really like to purchese a custom suit as my first one. i do only have the budget to go made to measure, but what worries me is the fit. for how many years will a custom suit fit me? I'm worried that my size might change. do you have an advice for me? Thanks, Johnathan.
Dear Johnathan, a suit will fit you as long as your weight does not change too much. In bespoke, the tailor will leave a sufficient amount of fabric in the "guts" of the garment in order to be able to enlarge ou tighten the suit if necessary (+/- 10 kilos, 22 lbs). But in MTM, this will not be possible (because the amount of extra fabric is way smaller, for obvious cost saving reasons). So my advice is to be reasonable and to commission a suit when you are in a "normal" shape. Never bet on the fact you'll loose weight because it's rarely true. But going custom can also be a great motivation to start working out and maintain a good shape for your body. Cheers ! Hugo
Hi Hugo, Can you please give me a list of high quality internet made to measure brands, Or do you have a video link from a video you've already created on that subject? If anyone else knows anything, please tell me. Much appreciated, and thank you.
Dear Yashodeep, for a warm and humid climate, I would advise "open weave" fabrics (woven in a way to let the air circulate) like the Hopsack or the Fresco. Also some "multifunctional" fabrics (super light, UV protection, Natural stretch) like the BlueFeel by Drago. Or blends or Linen, Silk and Cotton which can be great for jackets. Hope it helps, Hugo
Hi Hugo. Great content, as usual. By the way, i have a question. Is it true, that first bespoke suit gonna be the worst compared to second, third bespoke suit?
If you stick with the same tailor, over time your pattern will be refined and that tends to means your second, third etc. suit tend to fit better than your first. You will also have a better clue on the details that match your style over time, so stylistically your suits may improve too.
I globally agree with what @Ben Grade wrote as the tailor get to know you better and better. But in my case, my first bespoke suit (and even my second) are probably the best of all... Bespoke tailoring isn't an exact science for sure. Cheers Nabil ! Hugo
Thanks for the reply both of you Hugo and Ben. Please dont get me wrong as I love my first bespoke suit. Yes Ben, I stick with the same tailor for the second suit. Watching Hugo videos is great for an inspiration but bad for bank account (suits, shoes, ties). Cheers.
I love your passion Hugo! Thank you for sharing. You have really influenced my ideas on style. Especially lapel width and I hope one day to get a double-breasted suit!
merci beacoup pour cette video, hugo. j'ai achete mon premier bespoke suit l'annee derniere a tokyo. c'etait un vrai regal. cela m'a coute environ 3.500 euros, mais ca valait vraiment la peine. et je suis tout a fait d'accord avec vous sur le point qu'un costume bespoke est plus "simple" qu'on costume MTM. J'ai remarque qu'avec MTM, il faut vraiment que je parle sur chaque petit detail au vendeur, quand avec bespoke, le master tailor observe par lui meme comment construire ou ameliorer le costume. une question que je voudrais vous poser est concernant les methodes de paiements. le tailor ou j'ai achete mon costume a 3.500 euros etait assez flexible pour le paiement. c'est a dire, je pouvais payer 50% au debut, suivi par les 50% a la fin quand le costume etait *completement* fini. des autres tailors repute a tokyo m'on dit la meme chose. par contre, les tailors moins chere et moins repute insistaient d'etre paye en avance (50% au debut, et le reste pendent les fittings, donc avant que le costume soit completement fini), et n'avaient pas de refund policy en cas ou le client n'est pas content. quelle a ete votre experience jusqu'a present sur ce point la?
Cher ami, merci pour votre message. Chez les tailleurs en grande mesure, généralement vous devez verser environ 30% à la commande, puis 30% pendant les essayages et le solde à la livraison. Pour le MTM, les salons demandent un règlement plus rapide tout simplement parce qu'ils doivent payer une usine pour réaliser vos costumes. Mais quoi qu'il en soit, ne jamais régler la totalité avant d'avoir pris livraison du costume et éviter les maisons qui ne sont pas claires sur la politique de retour / échange / remboursement. Bien cordialement, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci pour votre reponse, Hugo. Votre experience correspond donc a la mienne pour ce qui est les tailleurs de qualite. Malheureusement, je pense que je devrai eviter pas mal de tailleurs a Tokyo, car la plus part d'entre eux ou je me suis rensegne exigaient que le paiement complet soit fait avant l'accomplissement du costume.
We are also locked down my friend and we can't shoot with our team. But we'll start shooting from our quarantine place and also we'll organise "live episodes" very soon. Stay tuned ! Hugo
Hugo, I love your Sartorial insights and content. I am yet to commission my first bespoke suit and I was wondering what the average cost is for a high quality mens bespoke suit? Thank you for all the content and stay safe. I am in NYC.
It's a difficult question because it can vary greatly from a tailor to another, but let's say as a big picture that custom suiting starts from $1000 (for industrial MTM), from $2000 for MTM with hand finishing and final alterations and from $3500/$4000 for full bespoke. Cheers, Hugo
Hey Hugo, sorry for trying to reach you using this unconventional way but I have sent you two emails asking you regarding the preordering of the english version of „Souliers“ as you have suggested in your videos but did not get an answer yet. May it possible that my emails ended up in your spam folder? Anyways, thanks in advance for coming back to me regarding the book. Happy Easter and kind regards, Frank
Hey Franck, sorry for our late answer. We are slightly overwhelmed with all the orders, while being confined in the USA (and not in France). We'll get back to you shortly. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, I hope your video helps men who are in the start of their bespoke journey. My only criticism would be in misleading them on weights of cloth and seasonality, because I believe what you are saying is more your taste for luxury/light fabrics rather than traditional advice. I would start at a 13 oz (400gr) worsted as a first suit.Winter would be between 16-18oz, summer 9-11. I wouldn’t even consider superfine cloths. 13 oz is good for indoors and most of the year except summer and cold winter days. I certainly don’t consider 13 oz to be “bulletproof” for that it needs to be closer to 20 oz suiting (not coating). I would consider these to be fairly typical weights for British tailoring and Savile Row. Some Neapolitans also quite like heavy cloths. To my understanding it is mostly the French who have a preference for light cloths and especially luxury cloths. I don’t consider tailoring a luxury and certainly don’t understand the preference for super180/200 + suiting.
I love how you can speak so well and explain so clearly unscripted 👌
Thank you sir ! Hugo
I feel quite relieved that when I went to have my first bespoke experience after watching a lot of your videos and a few from other content creators I had a well formed idea of what I wanted.
I have gone a slightly a slightly different path than you suggested due to not having to wear a suit for work. I started with a sports jacket going in with the idea of it being green and a light tweed, but was talked into brown with large blue squares and now I am having my first proper blue suit made it has a pattern but from a distance it won't be visible.
My tailors even made the comment on my sports jacket that they where impressed on my knowledge and knowing roughly what I wanted as most of the people they get for their first one they said didn't have much of an idea which made it more difficult for them to give them exactly what they wanted.
So once again thank you for imparting yours and your wife's experience into such well made videos I look forward to the next from a 33y new sartorialist.
Thank you so much Matthew for sharing your experience. And of course, if you like bold patterns on fabrics, go for it. The sartorial journey is not a science, it's an adventure! Stay well and safe, Hugo
Im losing weight and can't wait to get my first Bespoke experience. Your channel has awaken the gentleman suit wearer I once was.
Hi Hugo!
Respect from India. Thank you for being a Huge Inspiration! I am 28, and I'm just done with the first fitting of my bespoke suit from my family tailor. A 6*1 full floating canvas construction with deconstructed Spalla Camicia Shoulders (Italy is closer to our tropical climate). I respect you speaking about your roots being French and hence I went ahead with an Indian 250 gm Ecru Hemp Fabric (Mostly India sources the linen thread from Europe, but in hemp they are grown in Uttarakhand and are locally woven). And to compliment them a violet handloom silk tie with Ikat pattern (A tribal dyeing from the South) and a White Khadi (Handloom Cotton) kerchief as a pocket square. You are true Hugo! The joy is there in anticipating.. :)
You should visit India someday! It is the land of Cashmere and Silk.
Regards,
Siddhant
And the land of fabrics which empires dreamt about having in bulk.
Thank you Hugo for your helpful tips that you have been sharing with us for years. Your words mean a lot and I think that young men in search of a role model should just type in Sartorial Talks and enjoy your and your wonderful wife s wisdom.
Happy Easter to everyone that will celebrate it and best and warmest regards to the whole world that is currently suffering from this disease.
Wise and kind words Kruno ! Happy Easter and stay well . Hugo & Sonya
I don't take fashion advice from anyone. I ignore rules, I ignore trends and wear what I want when I want it. *I'm just here to listen to that charismatic soothing elegant accent of Hugo's!*
Well that's a good reason I guess ! Cheers, Hugo
Fantastic walk through on how to "think" on the bespoke process, this is very helpful!
Grazie Garth ! Abbraccio, Hugo
Thank you Hugo. All the teaching and guidance from each of your lectures has me more and more confident to purchase my Bespoke wardrobe.
Wise advise from a wise man with the grey hair.This advise can be used accross the board in multiple facets of life.Thank you Mr Hugo❤❤👍👍
Thank you so much Hugo for being such a style inspiration! After watching your videos for months I finally got my first custom suit. I can't quite afford bespoke yet as a 20 year old university student, but I fell so much in love with that garment that I'm having two more made. Luckily a quality suit where I live only costs about 700 euros (made on location by a single guy too, really lucky to have found such a great tailor) . I went for a blue windowpane and prince of Wales because I love patterns. Your videos have helped show how much passion and artistry goes into this beautiful craft, keep up the good work!
Thank you Angel for your kind message. Wow, a local tailor for 700 ? Lucky man ! Please keep him happy, in good health and prosperous!! Hugo
Great work as always Hugo (and team)! One additional word of advice for anyone who may see this comment is that not all great tailors have great taste. If you can afford it, I suggest you consider commissioning your first suit at a house with a person whose style you admire. Examples that immediately come to mind include;
- The Cifonelli brothers @ Cifonelli in Paris.
- Luca Rubinacci @ Rubinacci (both in Naples or Milan) *Note his father has a different style
- Andrea Luparelli @ Sartoria Ripense in Rome.
- Antonio Liverano and Taka @ Liverano & Liverano in Florence.
The amount of options available is often overwhelming, so guidance with stying eliminates much of the guesswork and increases the likelihood you will be satisfied with the end result.
Thanks Rory, it's indeed a wise advice. I would add to your list Gaetano Aloisio in Rome (supremely elegant) and Marc de Luca of Camps de Luca in Paris. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo,You are extremely intelligent its an absolute honour listening to you,take care God Bless us all.....Cheers
You are very kind Anukram. God bless you too ! Hugo
You explain in a way everyone can understand. That's unique. Take care and be safe my freind !!!
I loved your video with Kirby Allison. Always good content, someday I will order my first bespoke, thank you for the inspiration Mr. Jacomet!
Thank you for this video! I'm still young, just starting my career and will likely get my first bespoke suit soon. This has been very useful. Cheers, Hugo.
I'm so glad to read it's been useful to you Regis. Take care ! Hugo
I love your videos, Hugo. You have a wonderful presentation style and you are knowledgeable.
Thank you so much for your insight and tips. I am going to get my first bespoke suit made in Vietnam of all places. I am very excited but also nervous and these tips help me enormously. It will help me make the best of my time on this family/sartorial vacation!
Cheers, Hugo! I saw you and Sonya on Kirby's channel, live. You were great, and I love to see these at home linkups to shows, it's so much more intimate. In a sartorial setting, it shows how comfortable it can be, even from home. Stay safe, my friend!
Thank you for your kind words my friend, and happy Easter ! Hugo
This video will come in handy. I know that I will at least own one bespoke suit in my life time, but probably many more. I am still young and look forward to the day I can get a perfectly fitting 1930s suit. Thank you Hugo.
You are very welcome my friend. Take care, Hugo
This is a much needed video, very informative and helpful. Thank you, Hugo!
You are very welcome my friend. Happy Easter. Hugo
Amazing help - thank you so much! Excited for my upcoming first experience in late February. Thank you again!
Any updates??
@@momez9139 - Sorry, for the very late response. I loved it - midnight blue very traditional.
Today I pick up a tuxedo from the same artisan. Thank you for your help! Scott B
Hugo is G.O.A.T! Thanks for this video.
Really love the quality and attention to detail in the shots. Keep them coming! 👌🏻
We will my friend, as much as we can ! Hugo
I'm surprised it took me so long to watch this video. I had been thinking what's involved in bespoke suit-making. Hopefully, I'll be able to get my first next year. Maybe for my birthday! Thank you Hugo for the advice!
Sartorial Talks is now at 90k subscribers!!! Congratulations! 100k is just around the corner!
I started the video ,,and suddenly its finished!!! Time is flaying when i listen to you my Dear Hugo !)). What a great important tips from an expert ,,and i hope i could use them one day !!. Was great pleasure to see you live with dear Sonya last night and both of you always look elegant. Stay save ,and Happy Easter to both of you , LOVE from Cairo, Egypt.
Good evening Nader ! Happy Easter to you and your family ! Hugo & Sonya
I love watching your content so much! Appreciate your job and thanks for all the knowledge you pass to us.
You are very welcome. Take care, Hugo
Great information, Hugo, much appreciated.
It's great that people like you still put in a lot of work to educate and help understand the steps and the whole bespoke process therefore make it easier for tailors and clients to communicate as well and as a conclusion, make better and more calibrated garments in the end thanks to this better understanding.
Keep it up 😀
Thank you very much Alexandr for your kind words! Best, Hugo
Good evening Hugo I hope that this finds you well, may I say how much of a help your vides and advice and knowledge are I helping us all sartorially, and in these very strange times, I have spent many days in my garden enjoying reading your books , so may I thank you for that, so please stay safe to you and all of your loved ones, kind regards your friend Ryan.
Thank you dear Ryan for your kind words. You are a permanent encouragement ! Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS my pleasure truly Hugo.
Thank You Hugo 😀😊👍🏼 May You & Sonya Have a Great Easter 😊👍🏼
Happy Easter Chris ! Hugo & Sonya
I am really missing the intro music but as always loving Hugo's charisma.
Thank you for walking us through the journey of getting a suit made, as I think it's important for (young/new) sartorialists to deepen the understanding of the process to value the artisanship going into the finished product.
It will probably still take some time (and exercise) until I'll be able to get into real bespoke tailoring myself, but thanks to you I can start this journey well prepared!
I'm very happy to read this Martin. Take your time in order to fully enjoy your sartorial path. Cheers, Hugo
Thank you Hugo, great video! The only thing probably missing are some guidelines on what to expect as a price tag for a tailor in Paris or London. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
Hey my friend, the prices are extremely different from a tailor to another, but in a nutshell real bespoke fully handmade (not MTM industrially made), with 3 to 4 fittings, 60 to 75 hours by hand, will start at 3800 euros in Italy and will go way above that in London and Paris. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS many many thanks for the swift reply! Of course it differs from tailor to tailor and also even from country to country but also depends on materials etc. Maybe it would be an idea for a future video, talking about the costs of bespoke suits, shoes, shirts etc. Of course, nobody wants exact prices, that’s isn’t possible, just some rules of thumb.
Thank you for this. I am planning my first bespoke suit hopefully this year. I have an idea in my mind but this videowill seriously help me. Great video
We are happy to read we've been useful to you Alexander. Happy easter, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Same to you. Again thank you.
Hey Hugo, said it before, both you and Sonya not only have the knowledge, but the gift of delivery. In particular, Sonya has the crispest diction I've heard outside of a performance setting. Nice!
Also, please reprint The Italian Gentleman in large format. I won't be satisfied until my coffee table collapses under the weight.
I agree my wife has a fantastic voice indeed... As for the reprint, I'm afraid the compact edition (updated) is so successful that my publisher will most likely stay with this one for now. But my new book on shoes (published in French for now, soon in English) will probably make your table collapse !! Cheers Harry, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Will do. Cheers
Thank you Hugo, you're drop of fresh air these days.
Hi Hugo, the sound is great at this video. Well done.
Thank you Dimitris. Hugo
Thank you, Hugo, for the great advice and insight into the bespoke tailoring process. Your enthusiasm and love for fine tailoring comes through in this video.
Thank you David. Stay safe, Hugo
Thank you Hugo. I get excited each time I see you have posted a new video. I am in the process of replacing my wardrobe and I have learnt a lot over the past 40 years but not as much as I have since watching Sartorial Talks. Did you have a mentor/inspiration when you started your Sartorial start?
Dear friend, thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Actually I didn't have any mentor... as my father was from that generation who rejected the "codes" of their dads (May 1968 in France). I guess I've been inspired by the Franck Capra films with Stewart, Cooper and Gable. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, Considering the lack of mentor, I thank you then for pioneering the way for many of us. You inspire many of us, and as a result I have started to pass on what I have learnt to my son. Could I please make a suggestion for your consideration - perhaps touch on further the subject relating to accessories (e.g. lapel pins/boutonniere, signet rings, briefcases) ... the items most of us overdo.
Hugo, can you recommend two or three Italian tailors for full custom suits. I need tailors that are willing to work with my Thai silk suit fabrics. I live in Caribbean and wool no matter how light is too hot and cannot handle the wet, humid climate. Silk is much lighter, stronger and handles moisture better than wool. I can also put a lining and still be lighter than the lightest wool. I do like Cesare Antonelli, but I was told they won't work with my Thai silk. thanks, Dan
Send me an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr and I'll try to help you. Hugo
Thank you for your perspective on bespoke tailoring. I'm hoping to get my first bespoke jacket done later this year when lockdown eases for my close friend's wedding so this really helps!
Would be great to have a video or series of videos where you go for an actual fitting (or for every fitting) for a bespoke suit..
I agree although it's difficult to produce as the process stretches within the span of several months... Cheers, Hugo
Ah. Another informative video from Hugo to get us through social isolation. Cheers!
Cheers James and please stay safe ! Hugo
You are a genuine lifesaver!
Haha, thank you my friend !! Happy to be helpful. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, what is the shoulder style in the suit you are wearing here? It’s perfect for me......
Dear Robert, it's a typical French shoulder called "la cigarette" by Cifonelli bespoke. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS thank you Hugo!!
Thank you Hugo, another interesting video and your manner of presenting is very captivating. This is my favourite channel and whilst I have not yet been able to graduate to my first bespoke suit, although it has been my dream for a decade and more, I was nevertheless pleased to see that in one of your videos there was glimpse of the logo for Vitale Barberie Canonico, having just bought a suit that has material from there. I mentioned you in a post of LinkedIn as there has been a discussion on the value of how to dress in business with one comment saying that the suit should been confined to the stone age. naturally my comment in response was not in agreement. I wish you and Sonya very happy Easter. Thank you again.
Thank you Antonio for your kind words of encouragement, and also for defending the suit ! Happy Easter to you, Hugo
Engaging intonation and delivery.
That tie is fantastic. Who makes it?
Good eye my friend. This tie is by Scappa Neapolis (Nicola Radano). Cheers, Hugo
Your channel finally convinced me to save up for a true bespoke suit. It'll likely be another few months before I get there, but that's quite alright. You can't be in a hurry when you're after true quality.
Have you considered making any videos on the related gentlemanly topics of fragrances and dress watches? Those topics already have huge audiences on RUclips, but most videos are very, should we say, consumeristic. I'd very much appreciate to hear your thoughts and particularly how your philosophy applies to these ways of presenting oneself to the world.
Congratulations Mattias and please take your time (to choose the tailor first, the most important part). As for the fragrances, my son - a perfume specialist - recorded an episode on the subject (that we go online soon); Concerning the watches, I'm not a specialist but we are considering doing an episode on the subject with an expert of strictly from a style perspective. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, what an excellent walk through into the magnificent world of taking care of oneself... A gentleman that takes care of his attire and tailors it to his needs and taste, will most definitely take equal care of his life; his profession; his love, and tailor his moves and decisions accordingly. I am so waiting for this quarantine to be over, to order my first Bespoke suit... You are truly inspiring.
Harris
I'll be going in for my first bespoke suit fitting soon at Sartoria Ciccio in Tokyo, glad to have some more advice! Thank you for the guidance and inspiration you've given leading me down the bespoke path 🙏
Cheers!
~Mario, 22 🇺🇸
Congratulations Mario. Enjoy ! Happy Easter, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Happy Easter!
Customers who have decided to go bespoke for the first time, ought to investigate the house styles first. Find the tailor with a style you like; if you are that new, then a good consultant should be having a conversation with you.
How you wear it, what you like. Also, what you want out of it, when are you wearing it? A good consultant can have a solid conversation before the measuring tapes even get used.
Colours and patterns can affect the choice of cloth; and feeling the cloth is crucial.
There are so many options, when presented with 150 different buttons, it's ok to not know which to pick, but a good consultant can narrow those choices to a manageable 3 to 5 options.
Most important for the first time bespoke buyer: someone that will make you feel comfortable. It might take two or three tailors, so be it. This suit is going to last for years, you want it to be a joyful experience every time you put it on.
Thank you David for a great contribution to the discussion. Are you yourself a style consultant ? Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks For your videos. I hold yourself and Sonya with such high regard;
Yes, I am a Style Consultant here in Melbourne Australia.
brilliant video again Hugo, stay safe my friend
Thank you Gerry. Stay safe as well ! Hugo
Would love to hear people's thoughts on whether the fabric weight rule of thumb changes based on the cloth?
For example, will 250 gram 50 linen/50 wool quarter lined jacket wear cool enough in summer? Same question question for a quarter lined 265 gram hopsack wool vs a 265 lined worsted wool?
Dear Alexander, of course the type of fabric is also important and blends of linen and wool, but also linen-silk-wool or even linen-silk-cotton can be excellent options for summer (even if they are in the 250gr range). Also the weaving technique (plain weave or Hopsack) are to consider. My rule of thumb did not include this details, otherwise it would not be a rule of thumb ! Yours, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS ,thank you. It is a good rule of thumb. Sorry if the question seemed didactic or silly, I just wanted to make sure I understood correctly and didn't pass up on some good summer sport coats by being too literal (especially since I have never felt open weave suiting fabrics or combination fabrics).
Thank you for your answer and patience. I truly appreciate how aware and patient you and Sonya are about helping guide and understand people through their journey.
Fantastic videos, and I hope you are both staying safe and healthy - Happy Easter from CA!
I will have to try Neapolitan style maybe, my shoulders are wide and big and I stand at 190cm. You can see in my profile picture...hard to find anything that looks right.
Many thanks Hugo for another great video. Is it possible to provide the lapel width of the jacket you are wear in this video? I like wearing wide lapel and I already have a suit jacket with 3-3.5 inch width but yours look more classic with wider width. Thanks.
You are the best!
Haha, it's probably an overstatement but thank you my friend ! Hugo
THIS WAS REALLY HELPFUL
Thanks
Sure Marco. Best, Hugo
Dear M. Jacomet,
What kind of weave would you recommend to begin a wardrobe?
Thank you!
Best regards
I'm having trouble finding a good resource for finding bespoke tailors available based on region. I live in Florida and can't fly to Europe, much less for 3-4 fittings. Is there a forum I can go to?
you can take a flight to New York. there you have branches of European bespoke tailors and some Asian and Farsi tailors and even local American tailors. pretty much anything you want in a suit you can find there. and you can probably shorten the fitting steps by staying a few days in new York. i would say you can get a suit done in 3 domestic flights.
Hey Hugo, love your videos. I was wondering if you could make a videos on watches and your personal watch collection ?
Hey Muhammed! Yes we will do an episode on watches as so many people are asking for it. Cheers, Hugo
Do you think companies or men in general would be interested in a traveling bespoke suit business where the company comes to you takes 90 of your measurements and does a custom pattern for each customer there’s just one fitting instead of two or three
Excellent advice. Thank you.
You are very welcome Oscar ! Hugo
Im on my 3rd Bepoke Suit
Congratulations ! Hugo
would like to see to make an entrance by waking towards your chair and then leave the chair in the end credit to see your suit from all sides. cheers.
Hi there! I’m a little confused with the fact You don’t talk about American sartorial traditions on Your channel and especially considering the fact Sonya is an American herself. I could’ve probably missed it but just in case I didn’t, I’m asking are You going to release a video regarding American sartoria, traditional and so called Ivy League styles, cuts, silhouettes, fabrics so on and so forth? Cheers 😊
I have the option to have a custome made suit.
Should i go handmade orachine work. And why??
It is also my first suit
I love this guy
Dear Mr Jacomet. What is your opinion on beskope tailors that would insist on only one fitting, mostly 2. Would that be regarded as a real beskope?
Dear Andre, without judging the quality of these tailors, one fitting is not bespoke tailoring, two maybe... But normally, three fittings minimum is the rule in the craft. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thanks for the reply. may i drop you an email about this?
Thank you, Hugo ... many fantastic ideas ... this helps a lot! 🌺🙏🌺
I'm happy to read this helps ! Best, Hugo
Thanks Hugo I have plans to get my first bespoke in the near future really needed this advice and please pass my regards to your beautiful wife Sonya
I will, Happy Easter! Hugo
Thanks for the excellent content! What is your opinion on Sid Mashburn (in Atlanta too!) tailoring brand/service? Also, a bit off topic: what is your opinion on Bally shoes? Is it another marked-up brand like Ferragamo or a good shoe maker?
Sid Mashburn's product is decent, although slightly overpriced in my opinion (for an industrial product crafted overseas). Bally used to be a reference in the world of shoes in the past (Swiss quality) but now the brand has become a global brand and has lost its power of attraction among our community (high prices for regular shoes, well done but globally overpriced). Hope it helps, Hugo
Thanks very much! And one more: any thoughts on Aquatalia brand of shoes? Especially their waterproofing claims? Thanks again!
How do you go about choosing the right tailor?
Hello Hugo, regarding first bespoke suit is it a good choice a 4 season suit ? considering im living in Rome, where winter is not so cold (4°-5° in few days of January, then 7-8 in December and February) and usually I 'm working in office with controlled temperature. I think a fresco wool can be enough. Thanks and many congratulations for your show
This is liquid gold
Merci Juan. Hugo
Hey Hugo thank you so much for helping me on my sartorial pass, I’m 25 years old and i will get my first bespoke suit soon ( I will exchange my wardrobe like you years ago).
This video came to a perfect time you are a real inspiration and a Rolemodel for me. Greetings from Germany , and stay healthy in this hard times :)
Thank you Patrick for your kind words and please stay safe too. Cheers! Hugo
Fantastic sir !! Thanks a lot 🙏🏻
You are very welcome Sharad. Hugo
This Is Exquisite!!!
Thanks very much Walter ! Hugo
Learned a lot! Thank you Hugo!!
Is by any chance you would one day make ASMRish style sartorial video? Since I found your voice and gesture always soothing. Cheers and stay safe, sir
I never thought about that. Actually I didn't know, until recently, what ASMR was... But why not. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Hi Hugo thanks for the video. I have a question i would be very happy if you would help me.
I am 18 years old and I would really like to purchese a custom suit as my first one. i do only have the budget to go made to measure, but what worries me is the fit. for how many years will a custom suit fit me? I'm worried that my size might change. do you have an advice for me?
Thanks,
Johnathan.
Dear Johnathan, a suit will fit you as long as your weight does not change too much. In bespoke, the tailor will leave a sufficient amount of fabric in the "guts" of the garment in order to be able to enlarge ou tighten the suit if necessary (+/- 10 kilos, 22 lbs). But in MTM, this will not be possible (because the amount of extra fabric is way smaller, for obvious cost saving reasons). So my advice is to be reasonable and to commission a suit when you are in a "normal" shape. Never bet on the fact you'll loose weight because it's rarely true. But going custom can also be a great motivation to start working out and maintain a good shape for your body. Cheers ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks!!
Thank you
You are very welcome. Hugo
Hi Hugo,
Can you please give me a list of high quality internet made to measure brands, Or do you have a video link from a video you've already created on that subject?
If anyone else knows anything, please tell me. Much appreciated, and thank you.
Hey Hugo I'm from india. Do you have any specific advice as per India's climate
Dear Yashodeep, for a warm and humid climate, I would advise "open weave" fabrics (woven in a way to let the air circulate) like the Hopsack or the Fresco. Also some "multifunctional" fabrics (super light, UV protection, Natural stretch) like the BlueFeel by Drago. Or blends or Linen, Silk and Cotton which can be great for jackets. Hope it helps, Hugo
Hi Hugo. Great content, as usual. By the way, i have a question. Is it true, that first bespoke suit gonna be the worst compared to second, third bespoke suit?
If you stick with the same tailor, over time your pattern will be refined and that tends to means your second, third etc. suit tend to fit better than your first. You will also have a better clue on the details that match your style over time, so stylistically your suits may improve too.
I globally agree with what @Ben Grade wrote as the tailor get to know you better and better. But in my case, my first bespoke suit (and even my second) are probably the best of all... Bespoke tailoring isn't an exact science for sure. Cheers Nabil ! Hugo
Thanks for the reply both of you Hugo and Ben. Please dont get me wrong as I love my first bespoke suit. Yes Ben, I stick with the same tailor for the second suit. Watching Hugo videos is great for an inspiration but bad for bank account (suits, shoes, ties). Cheers.
Hugo, which fabric brand is your favorite?
I love Drago in Biella (lesser known than Zegna and Loro Piana) but easily in the same league (at a much better value for money). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you, I have never heard of them. Are they available in the states? I do have a Loro Piana suit, that is a quality fabric.
I love your passion Hugo! Thank you for sharing. You have really influenced my ideas on style. Especially lapel width and I hope one day to get a double-breasted suit!
merci beacoup pour cette video, hugo. j'ai achete mon premier bespoke suit l'annee derniere a tokyo. c'etait un vrai regal. cela m'a coute environ 3.500 euros, mais ca valait vraiment la peine. et je suis tout a fait d'accord avec vous sur le point qu'un costume bespoke est plus "simple" qu'on costume MTM. J'ai remarque qu'avec MTM, il faut vraiment que je parle sur chaque petit detail au vendeur, quand avec bespoke, le master tailor observe par lui meme comment construire ou ameliorer le costume.
une question que je voudrais vous poser est concernant les methodes de paiements. le tailor ou j'ai achete mon costume a 3.500 euros etait assez flexible pour le paiement. c'est a dire, je pouvais payer 50% au debut, suivi par les 50% a la fin quand le costume etait *completement* fini. des autres tailors repute a tokyo m'on dit la meme chose. par contre, les tailors moins chere et moins repute insistaient d'etre paye en avance (50% au debut, et le reste pendent les fittings, donc avant que le costume soit completement fini), et n'avaient pas de refund policy en cas ou le client n'est pas content. quelle a ete votre experience jusqu'a present sur ce point la?
Cher ami, merci pour votre message. Chez les tailleurs en grande mesure, généralement vous devez verser environ 30% à la commande, puis 30% pendant les essayages et le solde à la livraison. Pour le MTM, les salons demandent un règlement plus rapide tout simplement parce qu'ils doivent payer une usine pour réaliser vos costumes. Mais quoi qu'il en soit, ne jamais régler la totalité avant d'avoir pris livraison du costume et éviter les maisons qui ne sont pas claires sur la politique de retour / échange / remboursement. Bien cordialement, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Merci pour votre reponse, Hugo. Votre experience correspond donc a la mienne pour ce qui est les tailleurs de qualite. Malheureusement, je pense que je devrai eviter pas mal de tailleurs a Tokyo, car la plus part d'entre eux ou je me suis rensegne exigaient que le paiement complet soit fait avant l'accomplissement du costume.
You are handsome and look very smart in your very lovely suit, Sir. I find you striking!
Hey everybody hope all is safe. Pls Hugo & Sonya make videos like this a lot more cuz you know we locked down
We are also locked down my friend and we can't shoot with our team. But we'll start shooting from our quarantine place and also we'll organise "live episodes" very soon. Stay tuned ! Hugo
For some reason I think Hugo looks like Doctor Alexandre Manette from Dickens' A Tale of Two Cities
Hugo, I love your Sartorial insights and content. I am yet to commission my first bespoke suit and I was wondering what the average cost is for a high quality mens bespoke suit? Thank you for all the content and stay safe. I am in NYC.
It's a difficult question because it can vary greatly from a tailor to another, but let's say as a big picture that custom suiting starts from $1000 (for industrial MTM), from $2000 for MTM with hand finishing and final alterations and from $3500/$4000 for full bespoke. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you.
@@rk702 My pleasure. Hugo
Seriously thank you for this video.
Here's how my first will go: "Hi, I'm an engineer. Please help me not dress like a stereotypical engineer." 🤣
Excellent, as usual.
Thank you Osman, stay safe ! Hugo
Thank you!
You are very welcome Rob. Happy Easter ! Hugo
Hey Hugo,
sorry for trying to reach you using this unconventional way but I have sent you two emails asking you regarding the preordering of the english version of „Souliers“ as you have suggested in your videos but did not get an answer yet. May it possible that my emails ended up in your spam folder? Anyways, thanks in advance for coming back to me regarding the book.
Happy Easter and kind regards,
Frank
Hey Franck, sorry for our late answer. We are slightly overwhelmed with all the orders, while being confined in the USA (and not in France). We'll get back to you shortly. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo,
thanks for your answer and all the best for you and Sonya.
Frank
Great video Hugo!
Thank you Michael ! Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo,
I hope your video helps men who are in the start of their bespoke journey. My only criticism would be in misleading them on weights of cloth and seasonality, because I believe what you are saying is more your taste for luxury/light fabrics rather than traditional advice. I would start at a 13 oz (400gr) worsted as a first suit.Winter would be between 16-18oz, summer 9-11. I wouldn’t even consider superfine cloths. 13 oz is good for indoors and most of the year except summer and cold winter days. I certainly don’t consider 13 oz to be “bulletproof” for that it needs to be closer to 20 oz suiting (not coating). I would consider these to be fairly typical weights for British tailoring and Savile Row. Some Neapolitans also quite like heavy cloths. To my understanding it is mostly the French who have a preference for light cloths and especially luxury cloths. I don’t consider tailoring a luxury and certainly don’t understand the preference for super180/200 + suiting.