04:44 Henry Poole 08:15 (History of Sexton, Morgan, Nutters, etc) 09:50 Edward Sexton 15:10 Chittleborough & Morgan 19:24 Michael Browne 22:50 Davide Taub (Gieves & Hawkes) 26:23 Thom Sweeney
Sad news, Gieves and Hawkes have been caught up in the ongoing crashing Chinese economy (Chinese owners via investment houses) and may, if a buyer can't be found, go into administration ☹️
I agree. Brimming with friendly, inclusive enthusiasm. This is the way to share your passions, inspire curiosity, invite others to join you on your journey. Bravo!
The fact that English is not your native language actually is very cool, because it makes your videos to be more easily understood for those who do not speak English natively as well :)
Ha ! Thank you Maxim, that's encouraging ! (by the way my grand-father, who was a cobbler, mas names Maxime and it's my third given name...). Yours, Hugo
Because of Hugo i decided to have my first bespoke suit, and when i found a tailor, turned out that he also knows Hugo and watching Sartorial Talks. So, we are waiting bespoke suit with wool 120s, full canvas, charcoal grey! Hugo unites people :)
you probably dont care at all but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Bruno Nicolas thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I used to divide the Savile Row Houses into 4 different categories, if you are going on a horse ride, you pick Huntsman or Richard Anderson because of their equestrian background; if you are going on a military parade, you pick Dege or Gieves for their military heritage; if you are going to the ballroom, the freedom of movement from the Anderson & Sheppard drape cut will provide the maximum elegance, and for you Mr Jacomet, I guess you like to make a s̶t̶a̶t̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ scene, by English standard of cause, in your Armors from the Nutters. the blazer looks great by the way
Everyday's a schoolday with Monsieur Jacomet. Such a pleasure to see the love and dedication he devotes to the subject and it is infectious. I enjoy all his programmes very much. Thank you, sir. And Sonia always looks fantastic!
I'm always look forward to Sartorial Talks; I'm a closet (ahem no pun intended) and avid watcher of ST. I can't, yet, see a time when my wallet will be large or accommodating enough to be fitted for a bespoke suit, but I really enjoy the idea of wearing the best clothes I can afford. Your channel is never snooty of dismissive - it's a pleasure to watch. Love your DB jacket btw Tony
Many thanks Tony for your kind words, and remember all this is mainly for inspiration. The size of one's wallet has frankly little to do with building one's own style. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Hugo; I know you say ; ones wallet should not determine one's style but I keep thinking bespoke is what I want one day ; I had a made to measure with Canali ; nice but not a home run ; I not no suits at the time
If there is one thing that anyone should take to heart from your videos, it is your relentless dedication! Choosing one thing and learning all you can, you stay up until 2am and wake up at 6am because you can’t get enough you love it so much. Burning the midnight oil as some call it. Some may think it’s toil but to you it’s where your heart is.
Brilliant run down thank you Hugo. Watching you, browsing Instagram, enriching knowledge about this subject with a good coffee... perfect lazy afternoon!
Cher Monsieur Giacomet, ce blazer blue foncé vous flatte vraiment. Vous êtes une vraie source d’inspiration et vous montrez en pratique qu’il ne s’agit pas de mode, ni tendences mais de classe intemporelle. Merci beaucoup! Cordialement, Hendrik (Anvers)
Good Evening Hugo...I'm new to your channel....I'm from London but live here in Atlanta GA!!!!....upon my return visit to London. I will definitely check out those tailors on Saville Row...I love all of em...keep up the good work...its about time we Men get back into Custom tailoring!!!!
Thank you Stephen. You probably know my wife is from GA and we have all the family in Buckhead, Sandy Spring, Cumming and in the mountains of north GA. Cheers, Hugo
Hello Hugo. I love your channel. Very informative and you display a obvious passion for gentlemen style. Every well dressing man should watch these videos. Intelligent and comprehensive. Well done.
10:30 Started to work with...Terminator?! Well, I guess if you can bespoke dress a Terminator, you well deserve being called a legend 💪🙏 Jokes aside, fantastic video as always, Hugo. And very beautiful loation! 😍
Don't hesitate to drop us a note before (hugo@parisiangentleman.fr) so that we can open a few doors for you if needed. Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Hugo
Good evening to you Hugo I hope that you are well, well may I just say thank you so much for honouring British tailoring, and the depth you have gone gone into and the respect you have shown, amazing content, amazing channel, and a amazing couple that are bringing this information to us all, so I thank you for that sir, kind regards your friend Ryan.
Mr Hugo, what a fantastic video, you are such an inspiration for a young man developing his style, and great jacket by the way, fits you very well and surely boost you confidence, like you say, it must feel like an armour!
Very cool to see you highlight some of your preferred tailors. One day I will be able to afford an Edward Sexton, Joe Morgan (probably my favorite style), or Michael Brown suit...I feel their suits provide a good classic English style with just enough flair. On the subject of countries you can look at, perhaps it may be worth thinking about "The Spanish Gentleman". Having a Camiseria Burgos shirt (and another on the way), and the privilege to meet Ramon Cuberta, there may be something there. They seem to take be somewhere between the English and the Italian (at least to my eye). Regardless, I know anything you decide to write next will be worth reading.
Hugely entertaining and informative video , I am and have been for many decades , absolutely fascinated by the art of tailoring, Hugo obviously is not only fascinated but also extremely well informed and has a huge knowledge of the subject . I can no longer afford bespoke but i have several suits made for me in the sixties and seventies all of which are still in excellent condition and , remarkably still fit me , spurred on by Hugo I am of a mind to have one last bespoke garment made , I shall scrape the cash together and maybe visit one of the tailors he endorses.
If I may suggest a topic for a future Sartorial talks video: Ties, and more specifically their construction, and even how they are described. For example googling seven fold ties, you will find several different constructions are given that description. Some are constructed so there are seven folds or creases, others so there seven layers of fabric. Some are tipped, some lined, some are folded so the inner layers come to the middle of the tie, others so the inner layers go all the way to the opposite side, and on and on. All of this of course makes them behave differently. How they drape, how they tie, some giving fairly large knots with a four in hand, others almost begging for more elaborate knots. Some background and history would also appeal to this nerd, and hopefully others.
Great picks, Hugo! Would have bet half of my tie collection, that you picked at least one tailor of the sexton pedigree. ;) If I could choose one bespoke piece to be made for me on savile row, it would certainly be an overcoat by Mr Morgan, preferably double-breasted. His garments are beyond dashing! Greetings from Germany!
Huntsman was my first bespoke suit before I moved on to Neapolitan, however, I'd like to go full circle and try Michael Brown one day. I've seen his amazing work on other blogs and sites and really like his "Matrix" influence. I want to be like Neo :-)
This was just a brilliant video to watch. Also, without the longish hair, Mr. Jacomet looks like a billionaire with that suit and tie and shirt and the discreet jewellery.
Excellent video Hugo! BTW, there are four of your six that are "cut from the same cloth" or may have Tommy Nutter influences. Davide Taub worked for Sexton 2008-2010 before heading off to Maurice Sedwell and then G&H. Certainly, his more stylized architectural suits with roped shoulder and pagoda shoulders. Also, Michael Browne has also tried to lighten up the padding and construction as with Davide while still having the structured armour look of Sexton/C&M.
You are perfectly right Stacey, Taub and Browne have both managed to "lighten" the guts of their suits while still looking very structured. Cheers, Hugo
Just wondering Hugo, you mention that you would love to have a suit made by Joe Morgan among the six you mention. Is there a particular reason you would choose Joe, particularly since stylistically, it has the same DNA as Sexton, Browne, and to a certain extent Taub. Thanks.
@@staceychow9960 Dear Stacey, actually I would love to have a suit by all of them ! I said Joe because I like the man (he's really an interesting personality) and probably by pure enthusiasm (none of my speeches are written, barely a few notes for dates and quotes). But having a suit made by Michael and Davide is also a dream for me. Cheers, Hugo
Davide Taub is currently making me a suit. He is the best tailor I have ever dealt with. He LISTENS TO NEEDS unlike others on the Row who haven't in the past. I am so impressed with him that I commissioned 2 more suits from him. He is the best tailor in the world going away. Here's to you Davide!
Nice review as always. I think it would be difficult to go wrong with any of the top houses on Savile Row or Mayfair in general. I prefer the look of Huntsman and chose them for my first bespoke garments. I hope I will be able to travel to London for delivery in a few months.
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo just out of curiosity how did Huntsman not make the list? I think a lot of people would place Huntsman in the top 6 on the row… thoughts Hugo?
@@jasonarday4014 Dear Jason, I used to be a Huntsman fan (with iconic cutters like Colin Hammick and fantastic alumni like Richard Anderson or Pat Morgan) but more recently I believe the company lost its way (and part of its soul) with Roubi L'Roubi as an "artistic director" (I have nothing against him but he was a women's gowns designer, not a tailor). And when the fantastic black gentleman who was for me the face of Huntsman (at the front desk) was fired, I was done. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo, I hope you are well my friend. Thank you so much for your reply. This is really interesting. I have always been a Huntsman fan and did not have the privilege of meeting the tailors you have listed, but there are some very exceptional ones there now. On another note, I just want to say I think you and Sonya are exceptional and your content is brilliant. As someone that is obsessed with tailoring, listening to both you and Sonya is always an absolute education. Keep up the amazing work, sharp lines and fantastic lapels :) 👌🏾 Jason
@@the.dirty.pigeon I believe they are here in LA this weekend. I passed on seeing them this time as they have finished my one suit and a pair of trousers and I reserved fabric for them to make me another suit next year. Chestnut Plaid three piece suit with a double breasted waistcoat ( vest). Word of advice, go with fabric from either Holland & Sherry, Scabal or Huddleston. Really top end. And, unless you are having this suit made for a wedding or a funeral, don't order a black suit. Expand your horizons, go with a bold plaid or striking Venetian stripe suit. In short, have them make you a suit that no one else has. That's how I roll.
@@chuckbuckbobuckNice. My first fitting is next month when they return to LA. This suit will be far from unique-more of a standard navy twill sort of thing-but I’ll get a lot of use out of it.
I will be meeting with them then as well the suit they made for me came out great jacked wise-fit perfect. Trousers not so good so I am taking them back to fix them. Not sure what happened as we had four fittings. They send me some swatches last year and if they the fabric is still available I will commission another suit from them.
Might be interesting to do a world view of tailors. Sure British French Italian tailor's are the pinnacle but what are others doing .. German..south American.. Scandinavian country's.. Japan.. Hong Kong i had a few clothes made for me in Hong Kong fabulous fit durable materials. Shipped them home never saw them again. Now to compare to the well established houses may not be fair but I'm sure there are great tailors in most areas. Thank you for the videos you have opened my eyes to the true value of quality clothing . Happy new Year
Dear Scott, we've been visiting tailors around the world, and in the now famous "tailors dinner" we organised in December in Rome, 14 countries were represented. We wrote many articles on tailors outside the famous trilogy England/Italy/France on our blog Parisian Gentleman (which will soon be relaunched in a new and redesigned version). Cheers my friend, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, I really appreciate this garment with the mix of colours. Is it a suit or a blazer? (because of the metal button). Beautiful and thank you again
Excellent question Sahnoun. It was actually a bespoke suit by Cifonelli (I commissioned this one in 2008!!). Then I made the mistake not to make two pairs of trousers. So my trousers lasted "only" ten years and as I adored this jacket, I transformed it into a blazer by changing the buttons in 2019. Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you and sorry for asking the question twice, it’s the caprice of technology. Without being too prying, I would like to know the color of the trousers on this video. I would have worn blue identical to that of the tie. This could have been a sartorial subject: what color trousers H. J. wears on this video? Cheers PS: I go back to your video "Ma garde-robe (partie 1) and fine that you choose a white trousers in the photo.
Would be interesting to see a vid on different cloth, explaining differences between them e.g. super 120,150's etc and where they are made and how that affects the cost as well.
You are actually Hugo more clearly spoken in English than many of the people I live around here in South East England. Very nice Jacket you’re wearing btw! I’m guessing Cifonelli!
Dear Hugo, could you ask Sonya if she’s willing to talk about sartorial style for women? Great brands, where to go, her experience and preferences. I can’t be the only woman watching :D I’m a student so price range is also a factor that i’m interested in. Currently looking for a high quality navy wool coat. Love your talks!
You're far from being the only woman watching believe me. We are preparing a project for women. But you can start taking a look at our friends at Walker Slater here : www.walkerslater.com/ladieswear Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, surely you can do "The British Gentleman" as your books contain many aspects of lifestyle, style, shoes, behaviour, history and accessories. Savile Row by Mr. James Sherwood, definitely a masterpiece, covers the tailoring aspect only. You can also cover a unique aspect of nightwear and dressing gowns in British men's style as well. Please do not deprive us of your work. You will not be competing with other books but you will be bring your flavour to the subject. I possess two of your books and on the waiting list for the third. I hope to see a fourth cover that you just mentioned. Wishing you and your family the very best.
You are very kind with me Taimur. I don't want to deprive anybody from our work (I say "our" because Sonya and my team are behind every project) but we given the time and the money required to publish books in 2020 we have to make choices. All my best ! Hugo
Bless you Mr. Jacomet. I trust your judgment, this is your field and we are all learning so much from you and Soya. Wish you great success in every project and would love to keep learning from you and your team.
Where can we go to suggest subjects for this series? I would very much appreciate a show on the great mills of the world and the fabrics, new and old they are known for. You mention Zenga in passing, but I'd really like to know the difference in mills by Region. It will help us evaluate tailors that are more local to those of us who don't travel extensively. Next a show on American tailors and shoe makers. Anyone doing anything interesting in the US that can compare to Europe? Thank you
Love the video, thanks Hugo for the inspiration and information! Edward Sexton is the dream tailor for my wedding suit someday. Such a pity (british) bespoke suits are so expensive. ;-)
Hugo can you recommend a bespoke Tailor in NYC that creates mens suits that are in keeping with the style of Michael Brown in London? I enjoy the look and style of his suits. Thank you! I am not sure if Hugo responds to random questions so if someone would like to make a recommendation please feel free. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks...
I love you, Hugo, You had me at Henry Poole. My first bespoke dinner jacket (midnight blue barathea, single breasted, peak lapel, matching low cut u-shaped double breasted vest with shawl collar). Commissioned in the early 90s and still wearing it a couple of times a year almost thirty years later.
People often leave Scotland out of British sartorial history. Scotland invented tweed and the tweed suit, they basically invented the Oxford, which was just a Balmoral but cut down into a shoe, as well as the fabric for the oxford shirt and the brogue although its not quite clear whether that was the Scots or the Irish. As well as having tailors that were first opened in the 1700's still going today. The relationship between English and Scottish tailoring has also been a massive relationship.
Dear Hugo, thank you for the video, great as usual. Since you are talking about the Row, why don't you make a video explaining the concept of "soft tailoring", which is very vague in a lot of people's minds?
Dear Lupin, expelling soft tailoring (or more precisely the "Drape Cut") would require a full Sartorial Talks episode. But here is a resource on our blog which may be a good introduction to the subject : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-scholte-drape-cut-you-like-it-or-you-dont/ Cheers, Hugo
Couldn't agree with more. A jacket proper length I down to the bottom of the fly in other words covers the top third of the trousers. Anything shorter is ludicrous!
This lapel pin is a detail of a Toulouse-Lautrec painting, painted by hand on enamel by a Russian artist. We did 3 episodes on accessories on our Patreon page here (but you'll have to subscribe) : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks Cheers, Hugo
Howdy Hugo, another good episode, quite informative. As an aside, is it proper to wear velvet prince Albert slippers with bespoke suits for business environs ? How else do you wear these kind of shoes
Good company, decent products but not crafted in England (I believe they own a factory in China). So it's not exactly the same league. Hence the prices. Cheers, Hugo
Where can I join in this movement of women wearing tailored clothes? How it works? I have to show up on social media wearing in certain way or it is what it is: wearing and meeting with people? In Poland we have big movement of ladies in dresses, sometimes modest, sometimes retro, sometimes parisian chic. They have in many cases partners involved in classic male tailoring movement. But in my relationship I am the one involved in classic wear linked often with masculinity. I'm not so sure there is my place. If only I would find girls like me - it would be great!
Hi MP, You might have noticed many women in Hollywood are now wearing suits (this will likely drive the general population of women to try the same). Also, there is a trend of men's suit makers now making for women, e.g., Suitsupply and others. So...women wearing suits is alive and well--and growing at the moment. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks! In Poland we have women suit now and then, but I think it was always like that. I can sew one for me and I will do it to find out if other girls will follow me. Lead by example - it is the only way. Like Seth Godin would say: "people like us do things like this".
Merci for another fascinating presentation. I'm curious as to your opinion of Anderson and Sheppard--they seem to favour the soft-shoulder Neapolitan style and I was wondering if they developed independently, or if there was any cross-pollinization between A&S and some of those Neapolitan tailors? Cheers!
Dear Koji, A&S is not favouring soft shoulder but the "Drape Cut", which is a less structured and soft tailoring. You can read a few expirations here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-scholte-drape-cut-you-like-it-or-you-dont/ Cheers, Hugo
Hey Hugo, I know he is not British BUT what do you think of Tom Ford? I understand he has a much less storied background as all the others you have mentioned, but he is very influenced by the tradition and elegance of Savile Row even though his suits are made by Ermenegildo Zegna. Would love to hear your take on it. Cheers!
Hi Kevin, We have visited MS on Savile Row, and found this house to be quite convincing with solid crafting, even if they can push the limits with golden threads and nonconventional looks (not a fault to explore one's creativity!). Hugo
Hey Hugo, big fan of your videos and books. I have a question, I found a herringbone black suit on eBay that I really like. Is a herringbone just a versatile as the black suit you wore in one of your previous videos?
I will be in London in September. My wife and I are so excited. Even though we live on a retirees income I can’t wait to visit the stores on stabile row! At least I’ll get to meet some of the best tailors in the world. As always, your videos are the best. I just read your lastest book, the Italian gentlemen and man what an exciting book! Going to Italy in two years and can’t wait!
Nevermind.Some of us cannot speak good and fluent french as u do in English.Great video monsieur!
Merci Monsieur ! Hugo
I am from Africa and wearing a full suit is not appropriate for my work but I watch their videos with passion.
Thanks Mr Hugo
Many thanks my friend, Hugo
04:44 Henry Poole
08:15 (History of Sexton, Morgan, Nutters, etc)
09:50 Edward Sexton
15:10 Chittleborough & Morgan
19:24 Michael Browne
22:50 Davide Taub (Gieves & Hawkes)
26:23 Thom Sweeney
Sad news, Gieves and Hawkes have been caught up in the ongoing crashing Chinese economy (Chinese owners via investment houses) and may, if a buyer can't be found, go into administration ☹️
Hugo, I didn't hear a word you said. Couldn't stop looking at your jacket, absolutely amazing. Love those structured shoulders!
Not one word ? Then you have to watch it again. You've been hypnotised by the Cifonelli shoulder. Yours, Hugo
My favourite style channel- Sartorial Talks.
Thank you my friend for your loyalty ! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS You are most welcome.
I agree. Brimming with friendly, inclusive enthusiasm. This is the way to share your passions, inspire curiosity, invite others to join you on your journey. Bravo!
Thank you Thomas ! Hugo
The fact that English is not your native language actually is very cool, because it makes your videos to be more easily understood for those who do not speak English natively as well :)
Ha ! Thank you Maxim, that's encouraging ! (by the way my grand-father, who was a cobbler, mas names Maxime and it's my third given name...). Yours, Hugo
Because of Hugo i decided to have my first bespoke suit, and when i found a tailor, turned out that he also knows Hugo and watching Sartorial Talks. So, we are waiting bespoke suit with wool 120s, full canvas, charcoal grey!
Hugo unites people :)
Have you received your suit yet? What do you have to say about it?
Where did you go? Nice getting a classic charcoal just like HUgo said. I am heading out in a few months to get one now also.
you probably dont care at all but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly lost my account password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
@Avi Santana Instablaster ;)
@Bruno Nicolas thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I used to divide the Savile Row Houses into 4 different categories, if you are going on a horse ride, you pick Huntsman or Richard Anderson because of their equestrian background; if you are going on a military parade, you pick Dege or Gieves for their military heritage; if you are going to the ballroom, the freedom of movement from the Anderson & Sheppard drape cut will provide the maximum elegance, and for you Mr Jacomet, I guess you like to make a s̶t̶a̶t̶e̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ scene, by English standard of cause, in your Armors from the Nutters. the blazer looks great by the way
That's a funny way to describe the Row. I would add Henry Poole for formal events. Cheers! Hugo
yuri911qq what a great description :)
thank you so much that was so informative!!
Wow I just watched a 30 min video and it felt like 3 minutes! I like how Mr. Jacomet loves what he's talking about! It feels so inspiring.
That's very kind of you. Thank you, Hugo
I love your channel. You represent this industry with such elegance, class and respect.
Everyday's a schoolday with Monsieur Jacomet. Such a pleasure to see the love and dedication he devotes to the subject and it is infectious. I enjoy all his programmes very much. Thank you, sir. And Sonia always looks fantastic!
I'm always look forward to Sartorial Talks; I'm a closet (ahem no pun intended) and avid watcher of ST. I can't, yet, see a time when my wallet will be large or accommodating enough to be fitted for a bespoke suit, but I really enjoy the idea of wearing the best clothes I can afford. Your channel is never snooty of dismissive - it's a pleasure to watch. Love your DB jacket btw
Tony
Many thanks Tony for your kind words, and remember all this is mainly for inspiration. The size of one's wallet has frankly little to do with building one's own style. Cheers my friend, Hugo
Hugo; I know you say ; ones wallet should not determine one's style but I keep thinking bespoke is what I want one day ; I had a made to measure with Canali ; nice but not a home run ; I not no suits at the time
I have been waiting for this video 🙌 (Your accent is perfect, it sounds very nice to a native English speakers ear)
You are very kind with me my friend. Hugo
If there is one thing that anyone should take to heart from your videos, it is your relentless dedication! Choosing one thing and learning all you can, you stay up until 2am and wake up at 6am because you can’t get enough you love it so much. Burning the midnight oil as some call it. Some may think it’s toil but to you it’s where your heart is.
Yes Jake, you are pretty much describing our life with Sony (except we go to bed even later but wake up wayyy later in the morning :-)). Hugo
Brilliant run down thank you Hugo. Watching you, browsing Instagram, enriching knowledge about this subject with a good coffee... perfect lazy afternoon!
You're king Nikki. By the way I saw you asked about an episode on waistcoats. It's here : ruclips.net/video/qQ4QzMy-4Ck/видео.html
Cheers, Hugo
Cher Monsieur Giacomet, ce blazer blue foncé vous flatte vraiment. Vous êtes une vraie source d’inspiration et vous montrez en pratique qu’il ne s’agit pas de mode, ni tendences mais de classe intemporelle. Merci beaucoup! Cordialement, Hendrik (Anvers)
Merci à vous Hendrik! Amicalement, Hugo
Good Evening Hugo...I'm new to your channel....I'm from London but live here in Atlanta GA!!!!....upon my return visit to London.
I will definitely check out those tailors on Saville Row...I love all of em...keep up the good work...its about time we Men get back into Custom tailoring!!!!
Thank you Stephen. You probably know my wife is from GA and we have all the family in Buckhead, Sandy Spring, Cumming and in the mountains of north GA. Cheers, Hugo
Excellent info! I was overwhelmed by the number of fine tailors on Savile Row, and this great video gave me some perspective. Thank You
You are very welcome Igor! Hugo
Hello Hugo. I love your channel. Very informative and you display a obvious passion for gentlemen style. Every well dressing man should watch these videos. Intelligent and comprehensive. Well done.
Thank you Gary for your words of encouragement. Hugo
I have all three books :) thanks for your continued high quality content! You and Sonya never cease to inspire
10:30 Started to work with...Terminator?! Well, I guess if you can bespoke dress a Terminator, you well deserve being called a legend 💪🙏
Jokes aside, fantastic video as always, Hugo. And very beautiful loation! 😍
Thank you my friend, Cheers, Hugo
I always look forward to these videos. Thank you very much, Hugo :)
The pleasure is all mine. Hugo
Thoroughly enjoyed this episode. Will be in London this summer, will check out some of this establishments
Don't hesitate to drop us a note before (hugo@parisiangentleman.fr) so that we can open a few doors for you if needed. Thank you for your kind words of encouragement. Hugo
I love this channel ❤ exceptional and great content by Mr. Jacomet....
A French gentleman giving credit to the English!!! This is BOLD and brave!
Tell me about it. But on a Rugby field, it's a complete different story :-). Cheers, Hugo
Thank you Mr. Jacomet, you have reintroduced beauty into the world!
Love this channel, and I want to hear more from your lovely wife and her style. Thank you.
Good evening to you Hugo I hope that you are well, well may I just say thank you so much for honouring British tailoring, and the depth you have gone gone into and the respect you have shown, amazing content, amazing channel, and a amazing couple that are bringing this information to us all, so I thank you for that sir, kind regards your friend Ryan.
Thank you Ryan, it's always a pleasure to receive a message from you. All our best! Hugo & Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS my pleasure Hugo my pleasure 😇
Thank you for such a wonderful video, and for giving your own personal run down on the tailors whose work inspires you the most.
Mr Hugo, what a fantastic video, you are such an inspiration for a young man developing his style, and great jacket by the way, fits you very well and surely boost you confidence, like you say, it must feel like an armour!
Thank you my friend! Cheers, Hugo
Very cool to see you highlight some of your preferred tailors. One day I will be able to afford an Edward Sexton, Joe Morgan (probably my favorite style), or Michael Brown suit...I feel their suits provide a good classic English style with just enough flair.
On the subject of countries you can look at, perhaps it may be worth thinking about "The Spanish Gentleman". Having a Camiseria Burgos shirt (and another on the way), and the privilege to meet Ramon Cuberta, there may be something there. They seem to take be somewhere between the English and the Italian (at least to my eye). Regardless, I know anything you decide to write next will be worth reading.
Hugely entertaining and informative video , I am and have been for many decades , absolutely fascinated by the art of tailoring, Hugo obviously is not only fascinated but also extremely well informed and has a huge knowledge of the subject . I can no longer afford bespoke but i have several suits made for me in the sixties and seventies all of which are still in excellent condition and , remarkably still fit me , spurred on by Hugo I am of a mind to have one last bespoke garment made , I shall scrape the cash together and maybe visit one of the tailors he endorses.
If I may suggest a topic for a future Sartorial talks video:
Ties, and more specifically their construction, and even how they are described. For example googling seven fold ties, you will find several different constructions are given that description. Some are constructed so there are seven folds or creases, others so there seven layers of fabric. Some are tipped, some lined, some are folded so the inner layers come to the middle of the tie, others so the inner layers go all the way to the opposite side, and on and on.
All of this of course makes them behave differently. How they drape, how they tie, some giving fairly large knots with a four in hand, others almost begging for more elaborate knots.
Some background and history would also appeal to this nerd, and hopefully others.
Dear Thomas, this is the subject of the next episode of Sartorial Talks ! Cheers, Hugo
Very nice! Looking forward to that one. Thanks! :)
Looking sharp as always
Great picks, Hugo! Would have bet half of my tie collection, that you picked at least one tailor of the sexton pedigree. ;) If I could choose one bespoke piece to be made for me on savile row, it would certainly be an overcoat by Mr Morgan, preferably double-breasted. His garments are beyond dashing!
Greetings from Germany!
I agree. Joe is a great tailor and an hilarious (and passionate) human being. Best! Hugo
Huntsman was my first bespoke suit before I moved on to Neapolitan, however, I'd like to go full circle and try Michael Brown one day. I've seen his amazing work on other blogs and sites and really like his "Matrix" influence. I want to be like Neo :-)
Haha, I understand you. Browne is indisputably one of the most interesting tailors of the young generation. Best, Hugo
I never have a problem with your accent. I think it is clear and charming. M.
Impeccable jacket Hugo, one of my favorites in your collection. Black suits you nicely 👌
Actually this blazer is dark blue (Cifonelli bespoke from 2008). Hugo
No has and ever will use the word 'Romantic' to describe the fit of a suit. Love it!!
Haha, are you sure ? Maybe it's our French sense of poetry... Hugo
Thank you, Hugo!
You are very welcome Michael ! Hugo
This was just a brilliant video to watch. Also, without the longish hair, Mr. Jacomet looks like a billionaire with that suit and tie and shirt and the discreet jewellery.
Thank you sir, but I'm not a billionaire, far from it! Cheers, Hugo
Nice and interesting presentation, Monsieur Jacomet! Merci beaucoup!
My pleasure Daniel ! Hugo
Thank you for sharing, love this channel, keep up the Excellent work, look forward to your next episode. Cheers from BC, Canada
Thank you for your encouragements ! Hugo
Merci Hugo! We love you and your accent!
Thank you my friend, that's very kind! Hugo
Mr. Jacommet, is always a gentleman, even when talk about his competitors ! Regars from Brazil and take care everyone because of Covid-19.
Excellent video Hugo! BTW, there are four of your six that are "cut from the same cloth" or may have Tommy Nutter influences. Davide Taub worked for Sexton 2008-2010 before heading off to Maurice Sedwell and then G&H. Certainly, his more stylized architectural suits with roped shoulder and pagoda shoulders. Also, Michael Browne has also tried to lighten up the padding and construction as with Davide while still having the structured armour look of Sexton/C&M.
You are perfectly right Stacey, Taub and Browne have both managed to "lighten" the guts of their suits while still looking very structured. Cheers, Hugo
Just wondering Hugo, you mention that you would love to have a suit made by Joe Morgan among the six you mention. Is there a particular reason you would choose Joe, particularly since stylistically, it has the same DNA as Sexton, Browne, and to a certain extent Taub. Thanks.
@@staceychow9960 Dear Stacey, actually I would love to have a suit by all of them ! I said Joe because I like the man (he's really an interesting personality) and probably by pure enthusiasm (none of my speeches are written, barely a few notes for dates and quotes). But having a suit made by Michael and Davide is also a dream for me. Cheers, Hugo
That suit you have on is amazing. That’s some serious sewing.
By Cifonelli bespoke (this jacket is 12 years old). Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS That ends the mystery. Looks super.
@@krisoluich9119 Merci Kris! Hugo
I appreciate that Hugo is wearing an English cut blazer for this video, a thoughtful detail
Accurate as interesting, surely be visiting all of them next September
That's a great idea indeed. Cheers, Hugo
Davide Taub is currently making me a suit. He is the best tailor I have ever dealt with. He LISTENS TO NEEDS unlike others on the Row who haven't in the past. I am so impressed with him that I commissioned 2 more suits from him. He is the best tailor in the world going away. Here's to you Davide!
Just, simply brilliant!
Nice review as always. I think it would be difficult to go wrong with any of the top houses on Savile Row or Mayfair in general. I prefer the look of Huntsman and chose them for my first bespoke garments. I hope I will be able to travel to London for delivery in a few months.
Lucky man ! Congratulations David, Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo just out of curiosity how did Huntsman not make the list? I think a lot of people would place Huntsman in the top 6 on the row… thoughts Hugo?
@@jasonarday4014 Dear Jason, I used to be a Huntsman fan (with iconic cutters like Colin Hammick and fantastic alumni like Richard Anderson or Pat Morgan) but more recently I believe the company lost its way (and part of its soul) with Roubi L'Roubi as an "artistic director" (I have nothing against him but he was a women's gowns designer, not a tailor). And when the fantastic black gentleman who was for me the face of Huntsman (at the front desk) was fired, I was done. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo, I hope you are well my friend. Thank you so much for your reply. This is really interesting. I have always been a Huntsman fan and did not have the privilege of meeting the tailors you have listed, but there are some very exceptional ones there now.
On another note, I just want to say I think you and Sonya are exceptional and your content is brilliant. As someone that is obsessed with tailoring, listening to both you and Sonya is always an absolute education. Keep up the amazing work, sharp lines and fantastic lapels :) 👌🏾 Jason
Love that blazer he’s wearing!!!
Hugo, sir the suit you are wearing is structured very crisp and is extremely elegant. ❣️
Greetings and blessings. Ty for the education.
My pleasure. Cheers, Hugo
I’ll be starting a suit with HP&C later this year when they visit Los Angeles. Very excited. This is a great run-through. Thank you.
Daniel is a great tailor at Poole.. He will make you a great suit.
@@chuckbuckbobuck Great to hear. I haven’t met him yet but I’m looking forward to it.
@@the.dirty.pigeon I believe they are here in LA this weekend. I passed on seeing them this time as they have finished my one suit and a pair of trousers and I reserved fabric for them to make me another suit next year. Chestnut Plaid three piece suit with a double breasted waistcoat ( vest). Word of advice, go with fabric from either Holland & Sherry, Scabal or Huddleston. Really top end. And, unless you are having this suit made for a wedding or a funeral, don't order a black suit. Expand your horizons, go with a bold plaid or striking Venetian stripe suit. In short, have them make you a suit that no one else has. That's how I roll.
@@chuckbuckbobuckNice. My first fitting is next month when they return to LA. This suit will be far from unique-more of a standard navy twill sort of thing-but I’ll get a lot of use out of it.
I will be meeting with them then as well the suit they made for me came out great jacked wise-fit perfect. Trousers not so good so I am taking them back to fix them. Not sure what happened as we had four fittings. They send me some swatches last year and if they the fabric is still available I will commission another suit from them.
Never worry about your english Hugo. It's better than that of 99% of americans.
And the suit you have on looks amazing. Superbe mon ami !!
Good choices. I’m personally a fan of Andrew Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell. His house style is so unique and symmetrical
Thank you Hugo, great episode on Savile Row Tailors; very helpful!
True videos for a gentleman with taste and aesthetic sense.
Might be interesting to do a world view of tailors. Sure British French Italian tailor's are the pinnacle but what are others doing .. German..south American.. Scandinavian country's..
Japan.. Hong Kong i had a few clothes made for me in Hong Kong fabulous fit durable materials. Shipped them home never saw them again.
Now to compare to the well established houses may not be fair but I'm sure there are great tailors in most areas.
Thank you for the videos you have opened my eyes to the true value of quality clothing .
Happy new Year
Dear Scott, we've been visiting tailors around the world, and in the now famous "tailors dinner" we organised in December in Rome, 14 countries were represented. We wrote many articles on tailors outside the famous trilogy England/Italy/France on our blog Parisian Gentleman (which will soon be relaunched in a new and redesigned version). Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you. Didn't mean you were being exclusive to certain tailors.
Love the show
Many thanks Scott ! Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, I really appreciate this garment with the mix of colours. Is it a suit or a blazer? (because of the metal button). Beautiful and thank you again
Excellent question Sahnoun. It was actually a bespoke suit by Cifonelli (I commissioned this one in 2008!!). Then I made the mistake not to make two pairs of trousers. So my trousers lasted "only" ten years and as I adored this jacket, I transformed it into a blazer by changing the buttons in 2019. Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you and sorry for asking the question twice, it’s the caprice of technology. Without being too prying, I would like to know the color of the trousers on this video. I would have worn blue identical to that of the tie. This could have been a sartorial subject: what color trousers H. J. wears on this video? Cheers
PS: I go back to your video "Ma garde-robe (partie 1) and fine that you choose a white trousers in the photo.
Would be interesting to see a vid on different cloth, explaining differences between them e.g. super 120,150's etc and where they are made and how that affects the cost as well.
This video exists on this channel : ruclips.net/video/W5PWsovd5Js/видео.html
Cheers, Hugo
You are actually Hugo more clearly spoken in English than many of the people I live around here in South East England.
Very nice Jacket you’re wearing btw! I’m guessing Cifonelli!
Good guess Ian ! Many thanks for your encouragements, Hugo
Dear Hugo, could you ask Sonya if she’s willing to talk about sartorial style for women? Great brands, where to go, her experience and preferences. I can’t be the only woman watching :D I’m a student so price range is also a factor that i’m interested in. Currently looking for a high quality navy wool coat. Love your talks!
You're far from being the only woman watching believe me. We are preparing a project for women. But you can start taking a look at our friends at Walker Slater here : www.walkerslater.com/ladieswear
Cheers, Hugo
Great episode. As always. I do have book from James Sherwood - Savile Row and it is amazing piece of art.
James is a great writer (and a good friend). Hugo
You are the best in the world hugo!!! 👏👏👏👏👏
This is an overstatement Ivan, but thank you for your enthusiasm ! Cheers, Hugo
Love the suit you are wearing. Very good looking suit. 😎
Wonderful content... always look forward to your vids
Thank you Rajeev! Hugo
Great channel, learning a lot as a young man. The violin in the beginning is just beautiful. What is the source of this music? Really interested.
You'll find your answer here : vimeo.com/331568990
Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet, surely you can do "The British Gentleman" as your books contain many aspects of lifestyle, style, shoes, behaviour, history and accessories. Savile Row by Mr. James Sherwood, definitely a masterpiece, covers the tailoring aspect only. You can also cover a unique aspect of nightwear and dressing gowns in British men's style as well. Please do not deprive us of your work. You will not be competing with other books but you will be bring your flavour to the subject. I possess two of your books and on the waiting list for the third. I hope to see a fourth cover that you just mentioned. Wishing you and your family the very best.
You are very kind with me Taimur. I don't want to deprive anybody from our work (I say "our" because Sonya and my team are behind every project) but we given the time and the money required to publish books in 2020 we have to make choices. All my best ! Hugo
Bless you Mr. Jacomet. I trust your judgment, this is your field and we are all learning so much from you and Soya. Wish you great success in every project and would love to keep learning from you and your team.
Where can we go to suggest subjects for this series? I would very much appreciate a show on the great mills of the world and the fabrics, new and old they are known for. You mention Zenga in passing, but I'd really like to know the difference in mills by Region. It will help us evaluate tailors that are more local to those of us who don't travel extensively.
Next a show on American tailors and shoe makers. Anyone doing anything interesting in the US that can compare to Europe?
Thank you
Love the video, thanks Hugo for the inspiration and information! Edward Sexton is the dream tailor for my wedding suit someday. Such a pity (british) bespoke suits are so expensive. ;-)
Thank you Benjamin and see you soon ! Hugo
But worth every cent!
Hugo can you recommend a bespoke Tailor in NYC that creates mens suits that are in keeping with the style of Michael Brown in London? I enjoy the look and style of his suits. Thank you!
I am not sure if Hugo responds to random questions so if someone would like to make a recommendation please feel free. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks...
Send us an email at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr
Cheers, Hugo
I love you, Hugo, You had me at Henry Poole. My first bespoke dinner jacket (midnight blue barathea, single breasted, peak lapel, matching low cut u-shaped double breasted vest with shawl collar). Commissioned in the early 90s and still wearing it a couple of times a year almost thirty years later.
Congratulations Hector! This is what we can call a timeless piece of tailoring. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS And forces me to work out every day so I can still fit in it.
People often leave Scotland out of British sartorial history. Scotland invented tweed and the tweed suit, they basically invented the Oxford, which was just a Balmoral but cut down into a shoe, as well as the fabric for the oxford shirt and the brogue although its not quite clear whether that was the Scots or the Irish. As well as having tailors that were first opened in the 1700's still going today. The relationship between English and Scottish tailoring has also been a massive relationship.
Always excellent. Thank you
You are very kind my friend. Hugo
Thank you this video show the passion understanding for the best wardrobe man can star👌
Thank you David ! Blessings, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS
Thank you so much for reaching out to me that means alot
Very nice, but what is the name of that fancy store where you're at?
It's called SQUARE THREADS in Marietta (GA, close to Atlanta). Hugo
I very much like the shoulders on your jacket. Very nice. Thank you.
Thank you Richard. It's a Cifonelli bespoke blazer with the famous Cifonelli shoulder. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, thank you for the video, great as usual. Since you are talking about the Row, why don't you make a video explaining the concept of "soft tailoring", which is very vague in a lot of people's minds?
Dear Lupin, expelling soft tailoring (or more precisely the "Drape Cut") would require a full Sartorial Talks episode. But here is a resource on our blog which may be a good introduction to the subject : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-scholte-drape-cut-you-like-it-or-you-dont/
Cheers, Hugo
Love the channel..click like before I’ve even watched it
You live a dangerous life Mark ! Thank you for your support my friend, Hugo
Awesome breakdown sir.
Thank you my friend ! Hugo
You're so right about jackets getting shorter and shorter. I'm 6'4" and I don't like it. If a jacket doesn't cover my backside - forget it.
I agree 100%. Cheers, Hugo
Couldn't agree with more. A jacket proper length I down to the bottom of the fly in other words covers the top third of the trousers. Anything shorter is ludicrous!
Magnificent lapel jewelry. Do you have recommendations for similar men’s accessories ?
This lapel pin is a detail of a Toulouse-Lautrec painting, painted by hand on enamel by a Russian artist. We did 3 episodes on accessories on our Patreon page here (but you'll have to subscribe) : www.patreon.com/sartorialtalks
Cheers, Hugo
Howdy Hugo, another good episode, quite informative.
As an aside, is it proper to wear velvet prince Albert slippers with bespoke suits for business environs ? How else do you wear these kind of shoes
@hugo - any view on Cad & the Dandy?
Good company, decent products but not crafted in England (I believe they own a factory in China). So it's not exactly the same league. Hence the prices. Cheers, Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS: Merci Hugo 🥂
Excellent. Thank you!
With pleasure Rod! Hugo
Excellent video Hugo! Do you have any picks for the best tailors in the US?
Of course, but where do you live ? Hugo
SARTORIAL TALKS I divide my time between Miami and Boston.
Drop me a note at hugo@parisiangentleman.fr
Where can I join in this movement of women wearing tailored clothes? How it works? I have to show up on social media wearing in certain way or it is what it is: wearing and meeting with people? In Poland we have big movement of ladies in dresses, sometimes modest, sometimes retro, sometimes parisian chic. They have in many cases partners involved in classic male tailoring movement. But in my relationship I am the one involved in classic wear linked often with masculinity. I'm not so sure there is my place. If only I would find girls like me - it would be great!
Hi MP, You might have noticed many women in Hollywood are now wearing suits (this will likely drive the general population of women to try the same). Also, there is a trend of men's suit makers now making for women, e.g., Suitsupply and others. So...women wearing suits is alive and well--and growing at the moment. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thanks! In Poland we have women suit now and then, but I think it was always like that. I can sew one for me and I will do it to find out if other girls will follow me. Lead by example - it is the only way. Like Seth Godin would say: "people like us do things like this".
Merci for another fascinating presentation. I'm curious as to your opinion of Anderson and Sheppard--they seem to favour the soft-shoulder Neapolitan style and I was wondering if they developed independently, or if there was any cross-pollinization between A&S and some of those Neapolitan tailors? Cheers!
Dear Koji, A&S is not favouring soft shoulder but the "Drape Cut", which is a less structured and soft tailoring. You can read a few expirations here : parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-scholte-drape-cut-you-like-it-or-you-dont/
Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you!
Your choice of favorites is great, Who would disagree?. I would have added Huntsman, but again your choices are great!! Thanks.
Thanks Robert. All this is very subjective of course! Best, Hugo
Having a bespoke suit on saville row is a dream of mine I’ve had since been 18 but always going to be out of my price range. It’s nice to dream though
one day. never stop dreaming!
Hey Hugo, I know he is not British BUT what do you think of Tom Ford? I understand he has a much less storied background as all the others you have mentioned, but he is very influenced by the tradition and elegance of Savile Row even though his suits are made by Ermenegildo Zegna. Would love to hear your take on it. Cheers!
Ford is a very gifted designer who understands tailoring. That's one of his biggest strength. Hugo
Fantastic!
Merci Fred! Hugo
Hello Hugo. I was curious to know your thoughts on the Maurice Sedwell on Savile Row Style.
Hi Kevin, We have visited MS on Savile Row, and found this house to be quite convincing with solid crafting, even if they can push the limits with golden threads and nonconventional looks (not a fault to explore one's creativity!). Hugo
Hey Hugo, big fan of your videos and books. I have a question, I found a herringbone black suit on eBay that I really like. Is a herringbone just a versatile as the black suit you wore in one of your previous videos?
the best tailors from uk ! Cheers !
Cheers my friend ! Hugo
I will be in London in September. My wife and I are so excited. Even though we live on a retirees income I can’t wait to visit the stores on stabile row! At least I’ll get to meet some of the best tailors in the world. As always, your videos are the best. I just read your lastest book, the Italian gentlemen and man what an exciting book! Going to Italy in two years and can’t wait!
Thank you my friend for your kind words and your enthusiasm ! Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, what’s your thought on Kent & Haste?
That Bentley driving jacket that Davide Taub made is an all time great