Restoring a 100 Year-Old Chisel
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 мар 2024
- Sign up for a 14-day free trial and enjoy All of MyHeritage's amazing features. If you decide to continue your subscription, you’ll get a 50% discount. bit.ly/DaisyTempest2
Hopefully I've done the legacy of this chisel justice!
As I say, you can use sandpaper for all the processes I do here if you're on a budget. I'd recommend a honing guide of some sort but if you have accuracy then go nuts without one.
Hope you enjoyed this video, and thanks for stopping by the channel. Do like/sub/comment if you enjoyed - it means a lot.
And watch out for those PESKY spammers using my name with 'telegram' next to it. Stay safe out there!
Daisy x
Patreon: / daisytempest
Instagram: / daisy_tempest 
Хобби
Have as much fun as me and Robin did and sign up for a 14-day free trial and enjoy All of MyHeritage's amazing features. If you decide to continue your subscription, you’ll get a 50% discount. bit.ly/DaisyTempest2 ❤❤❤
51 and 🐵
There is nothing wrong with using linseed oil on oak. Th main reason not to, has to do with colour -as raw linseed oil makes oak very yellow (something you usually would avoid when working with oak) The drying time mentioned in other comments really is the same on oak as other similarly grained woods -absurdly long, as raw linseed oil takes up to months drying completely. Therefore you would normally use polymerized or “boiled” linseed oil. Where the polymerized oil is made by heating the oil in an oxygen free environment. Thereby starting the polymerising of the oil -thickening the oil and shortening the drying time. And Boiled linseed oil is made with adding metal salts as drying agents and solvents (typically turpentine) to decrease viscosity (boiled linseed oil, is also the most reactive of the two. So beware of drying rags. So think of raw linseed oil as a component in finishes such as paints and varnishes, not a “complete” finishing solution.
Hope this helps. Best regards from a former cabinetmaker, now knife builder from Denmark
That explains why an old file that I inherited from my father has that very yellow finish.
Thank you so much for the intel! Glad you helped not just me but everyone else who came here. Thank you :)
I’m glad to be of any help. Keep up the great content!
Only use raw linseed oil on traditional old willow cricket bats!
@@DaisyTempest metals in boiled linseed could react with tannins which is probably the reason for the "no oak" alao probably very unlikely to be an issue, have a hook in the bottom of a rake that's gone wonderfully black
For things like cleaning out that makers mark, I like to cut the end off a bamboo skewer with wire cutters or something that will compress and fray the cut end. It gives you a nice very stiff brush-like tool that you can use like a pencil eraser,. When it wears and softens, you can just cut it down a bit and keep going. Soft enough to keep from harming the piece you're working on, and hard enough to dig out even the most stubborn of buildup.
Great tip! Thanks!
That is a great tip.
Hi, 60 years ago I was an apprentice at Vauxhall motors as a pattern maker. I still have my toolbox full of the chisels and turning tools used for my job. Some of the tools I have I acquired from retiring workers. This making some of the tools up to 200 years old! Every so often I check that they are in good order. Also when I learnt my trade, everything was done by hand, no modern equipment.
Enjoy, Dave r.
You must have had access to some great-quality mahogany in those days.
@@hughmac13 Hi, yes we did, first quality Honduras Mahogany, and Yellow Pine. All naturally seasoned, not kiln dried as now. For model making of new car 'bucks' we used a laminated timber called Stabelite. It was made from pulp timber from jungle swamps, and when seasoned and sealed, with varnish, was guaranteed not to move more than one thousandth of an inch. That's old measurements not metric!
@@Davidrollings-zr7bh That's right-you just do not want to be carving in kiln-dried woods if you have a care for your tool edges or the comfort of your hands and wrists.
You were making the patterns for the engine castings? What are the "bucks"? Did the Stabelite carve well? I've wanted to learn about casting but haven't had a chance to get into it. I know there are cores and coreboxes and draft angles but that's it.
Hi, it's good you are interested in, what I call older trades.
You are talking about two different types of pattern/model making. The first, using traditional timbers was indeed used to make patterns for engine blocks, gar box casings and axle casing. And if fact in many other parts of engineering. Most patterns were made to contraction size, not imperial measurement, as castings contract on cooling. Examples are 1/120, for aluminium, and 1/60 for cast iron. All pattern where build with a small taper to allow them to be removed from the sand in the foundry. Also there were cores to the patterns that could be removed to allow for holes, rebates etc.
The second part, using Stabalite for new car bucks, basically was a complete model of a new car. When I was at vauxhall I worked on the HB Viva, Fc Victor, as well as Bedford commercial vehicles. In short when the model was complete, either plaster casts, or fibre glass mould were taken from the buck, and ultimately made into dies for the press shop, to make the panels.
Stability was a very hard materiel and I remember alway sharpening any tools used.
Final point, most patterns for the dies, were made from polystyrene!
Hope this helps a bit?
Dave r.
@@Davidrollings-zr7bh I've seen some good videos on RUclips channels focused on casting or that feature casting as part of projects.
I think it's interesting on its own, but as a cabinetmaker I had a wish to restore and build tools, which would necessitate casting in some cases. So my interest was in smaller pieces cast probably in bronze for the most part.
I've seen foam used in some of those videos. I've also seen patterns that were 3D printed, which seems like an amazing way to create intricate shapes, and very rapidly. The part about patternmaking and casting that's so tricky to me is learning to see the negative of the object. It seems like something that takes practice because it doesn't come naturally to me at all.
Love this video. I understand your hesitation. I'm a librarian and at one time considered becoming a conservator, but the job is literally "here's something priceless, a bottle of acid and a q-tip, get to work".
Great video Daisy. These little side "excursions" are enjoyable to watch.
Thank you
Shellac is also a decent finishing solution for old tools. Feels good in the hand, easy to touch up, but does change the colour depending on the darkness of the shellac
40+ years ago I inherited about a dozen lathe chisels from my great uncle; they're about the same age as your grandmother's. As I still don't have a lathe, they're simply sitting or rather hanging in my tool cabinet. It's comforting to know that I'll be passing these along to my son who will eventually get a lathe and restore them as you have done. Family heritage is a nice thing to have. Good job and have fun in Austin. I have a good friend who is also a great woodworker who lives there and I'd love to get the two of you together. She has a musical background, too. Travel well.
This is lovely! Thank you for the comment. Good luck to your son for the restoration :)
Buy him a mini lathe, Grant!
Fun project. I'm sure your great grandmother would love to know that someone in the family was still using her tools!
I had always gotten someone else to sharpen my chisels, on the rare occasions I used one. Someone then gifted me a Richard Kell honing guide. It not only transformed my ability to be able to sharpen them as often as you are supposed to and therefore how often I could use them in the best condition, it also enabled me to re-profile and sharpen the others that I thought were in a condition beyond use.
I have a few tools that were my father's, small pair of vise grips, hacksaw, and small ball pen hammer. He passed last year.
That's great that you now have and are using it in your shop
That's the original handle (classic Marples shape) and it's made from Ash. As others have said, Linseed Oil is fine to use on Oak. Keep up the good work!👍🤩
Glad you said it. i was getting a bit touretty watching the vid.
So woodworking really runs in the family. So cool! It's a nice feeling to discover our ancestors had similar interests as we do. Kind of a bonding experience, though we can no longer meet the person.
Nice work. I have a number of old Sheffield chisels that I've restored pretty much the same way (except that I finish on waterstones), but having your great grandmother's is extra special.
Glad to see you carrying on the family legacy! Love the history behind the tool too.
I use Linseed oil on all my children's and grand children's oak furniture. You're perfectly fine. Love your channel.
I've used linseed oil on oak before it just takes a few coats to get the look you want.
Reinvigorating old tools is brilliant. Probably half of mine belonged to my grandfather. The ones I am responsible for are the higher tech ones, like the CNC I built. It started life barely able to cut MDF, and now it is fine with steel.
If I may be so brazen Daisy. When I was cleaning up a batch of chisels I used coarse wet dry sand paper to do the majority of the work. You can put them right on your existing stones and take of a lot of material quickly then go to your stones. Add water to the paper to help remove swarth.
You’re amazing! I love old tools and restoring old treasures, bonus you’re a pretty girl with an English accent. Couldn’t make a more perfect video! ❤
Daisy that's a fine bit of family heritage kit you have there and now ready for service for another hundred years. Make sure your children know it's there and how important that tool is. Awesome job and thank you for sharing!
I have used oils a lot over the years. Particularly BLO, Tung Oil and Walnut Oil. I have found that using solvents (citrus oil, pine oil) accelerates the adsorption of the ”cut” oils into denser woods. I have also used Japan Drier to speed up the process as well. A lot of tools that I have purchased have laquered handles so my first job when I get them in the shop is to strip that off and replace it with multiple coats of oil.
I did this with my neighbour's old chisel a while ago - using the same faithful 400 grit stones - so i feel your pain...
Lovely to restore a piece of family history like this. Great video!
A fantastic tutorial on refurbishing a wonderful tool
This is really inspiring, I love knowing other people care for old tools.
What a credit you are to your grandparents and what a great way to honour them. Really informative too.
Nice to see a Sheffield Marples chisel, as opposed to MiC. I still have a couple from my apprentice days (40+ yrs joiner), as well as some others I've picked up on the bay of various brands. I have a rosewood (I think) Marples mortice gauge that dates to the late 1800's with the original joiners initials stamped on.
Nicely done Daisy! Restoring a treasured hand me down is always a good thing! 👍👍💖💖
Great video! Love the story behind the tools and keeping your heritage alive.
Loved this. I recently found my Grandfather’s #5 jack plane. It was in dreadful condition. But after doing a restoration similar to yours, it is a beast!
Always a pleasure to watch one of your videos and note the care and attention you put into everything. I'm sure the oil on the chisel will be fine given the years it has had to dry out and close the grains .
Nice to see Lindsey Doyle doing the rounds, very enjoyable video, beautifully restored.
Not me nearly doing your accent every time I think about Lindsay Doyle
Fascinating. Beautiful restoration of a great heirloom.
heirloom tools have so much charm
wonderful video! So many nice pieces of humanity in here: you doing very similar work as generations past, your cousin providing an advertisement we all watched through, and the care and dedication to maintaining craftsmanship - something so many have lost in our current society. Thank you.
I really enjoyed this episode. Thanks so much!
I have restored many old hand tools over the years and they continue to inspire me whenever I use one of them.
Kudos to you!
You did a great job on the chisel. I love restoring old hand tools. I find it very rewarding. Keep up the good work. Love your videos.
Your words are so poetic. Great video!
This is a guess about oak and linseed oil, but maybe the concern is that oil which soaks deeply into the pores will never cure since it's cut off from oxygen, and so maybe the piece would continually seep with uncured oil afterwards? But since that piece has been previously finished, I think you're right that the pores are likely to be well sealed already. Any linseed on the surface should cure just fine.
What a wholesome find this channel was...
What a lovely video, I also have lots of Marples chisels that were my Grandfathers, I'm now in my 60s so they are very old, such good Sheffield steel, keep their edge for ages. I stopped putting a secondary bevel on a couple of years back with no apparent drawback that I have noticed, saves a lot of time! All my (many) chisels are now honed at 30dgrs. Travel safe and be lucky
You did a great job. It was fun and inspiring to watch. And thanks for the scammer warning, I have been pestered with those on other channels.
If only ""smell a vision"" would be a thing, woodworking shops always smell so nice. Much respect for your skills, I was trained to be a machinist so I understand how secure one must be. Woodworking is such a great skill to have, but creating musical instruments is IMHO next-level. I raked guitars in my lifetime and fiddled around trying to improve action, tone, etc. but when I did that( needed to adjust it for thinner strings) , I thought I killed that guitar. Eventually, after months of research and trial and error, I brought that guitar (an Epiphone LesPaul ""something-something"") back to life and it was so much better than when I started, but I promised myself I never ever try that again.
What you do takes so much skill, knowledge, and expertise.
Hi Daisy, Rustins danish oil is brill... great for oak kitchen worktops or even sealing guitars against moisture. All the best...x
Really enjoyed this! Keep em coming Daisy 🙂
Thank you!
Great work! I love restoring hand-me-down tools by hand. The tool has more meaning when you use it later.
A tip when you have a lot of sanding to do on chisels and the like is to not put excessive force on one side. It's really easy to take off more material from one side and never notice.
Beautiful work!
Such a lovely video!
Amazing work on the fine details of the maker's mark, and name carving in the handle!
I love that you plan to use the chisel in the workshop 👍
Hey Daisy, if you authorise other trusted users to manage your comments, they will be able to see any scammers that are hiding from you & then zap them!
All the best to you from rural Portugal - love what you do even though I am ham-fisted & totally non-musical!
Steve
Great to know! Thank you!
I have my Dad's handplane and I feel the same way about it as you do about the chisel. Wonderful video.
Love it. Using the tools of our ancestors or restoring them is the best way to honor them.
Great video, white vinegar makes a good rust cutter...when I'm restoring an old Stanley plane I'll pour some in a small plastic tub and soak the rusty parts for a day or two. Totally benign to work with, just make sure to rinse the steel well as the acid will promote rust as well as remove it;). Also, no need to flatten the entire back of the chisel, other than for aesthetic reasons. Even a half inch will do for good function, and sometimes the amount of cup or bow in an old blade will take FOREVER to flatten. Keep the videos coming!
Something I've been wanting to get is a nice chisel set as well as some quality whetstones and a strop. I rely on power tools a lot and have totally neglected my carving abilities, just finished my second bass though and I'm very happy with it.
What a fun project! One tip I got for sharpening dulled chisels is that you don't have to flatten the WHOLE back - just the last inch or so that comes up to the tip - which can save a lot of time. Apologies if someone else already commented that - too many comments to sift through!
Worth all the work 👍
Very nicely done Dasiy, loved your test passes, truly steady hands. 😍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Really beautiful work, Daisy! 😊
And don't worry, woodworkers all around the world use BLO on oak.
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Daisy, thanks to your patience, your Great Grand Parents will be looking down and shining upon you after restoring that beautiful chisel, may it give you long and fruitful service, perfect!
😮😮 Love the final result. That chisel will work perfectly shaping wood other 100 years.
I love your beautiful accent too.
I usually use a BLO/meths/turps mix a third of each one with 0000 steel wool for restoring old chisel handles, it cleans them without removing any patina or damaging them, that might have saved you some work with the dental tools.
I just love using and restoring old tools, carving chisels, knives etc. I have as much pleasure in restoring them as making something new! Love the vid.
I use tongue oil on oak all the time with no ill effects. Thinking linseed oil is similar. Nice clean up job. Love that you have a reverence for old tools
You look so much like you great grandmother, great vid and love the chisel :-)
Lovely stuff. Been a carpenter for over 30 years (mostly site work, but furniture too). I've restored a few things but definitely get impatient and definitely don't get anything like as fine a cutting edge as you do. Been wanting to get into sewing and recently restored a pair of old, battered Wilkinson dress making scissors, which was a love-hate process, but pleasing in the end.
Don't doubt your identification of oak (and being porous I would have thought the boiled linseed oil would just soak in loads so you'd have to do a gazillion coats. Certainly not going to harm it.) but from my understanding, most traditional tool handles were made from ash. Also porous, but less so than oak.
Mark in Scotland.
Yes I think you're right Mark, ash or beech would be my thought, though ash can look like oak in the right light
Hola Daisy!! Sin duda Robin tiene un gran futuro. Quedo como nuevo el cincel, gran trabajó. Saludos desde Argentina.
I did enjoy your video. I wouldn’t be too concerned about the linseed oil. I enjoy your work and learning about guitar building. You also present yourself as personable and fun, good qualities.
Thanks for the kind comment!
Nicely done. Keep up your broadcasts
NIce work as alwaysDaisy :) I have worked as a technician once or twice in school workshops. I had to sharpen all the chisels. Those water wheel grinding set ups like you have are great. The one I used also had a leather wheel to put compound on to polish the blades. I also had a stone next to it to debur the flat side of the blades. The chisels came out well, very sharp, though I was running out of hair on my left arm. I did my fathers old chisels while I was at it.
Haha! I hope your hair grew back. I have barely any either :( such a pain!
Well done!
great video and great chisel
It'll be fine. Nice work!
What a lovely heritage to have! I've never heard of BLO being a problem on oak, James Wright aka wood by wright uses it all the time on everything. I've just started using it and it gives a lovely feel. For an initial sharpening I believe axminster still offer a sharpening service or as you suggested a cheap honing guide with 240 grit sandpaper on either a piece of float glass, smooth granite table mat (as long as any reflection looks smooth) or even MDF or ply.
a chisel made by your gt. grandmother... what a wonderful thing to have! All i have from my gt. grandmother is a washing dolly, which i use as a loo roll holder :)
Nice Restoration Daisy - thanks for the video, safe trip stateside - Cheers from Canada
Linseed oil rags can spontaneously start burning, so be careful where to put dirty rags.
Sandpaper on the tablesaw gets the back roughed in flat quickly. Just make sure the table is glue, bump and burr free.
Boiled linseed oil is marvelous stuff. Thinned with turpentine, it is great for cleaning, refinishing, and rejuvenating wood. The rags can combust unless you soak them in water, but it's safe otherwise. It can make oak turn yellow (raw linseed oil is worse for this) but if you rub an old finish with fine steel wool and a 4:1 linseed turpentine mix, the old finish will re-emulsify.
Very nicely done. Just came across your channel and subbed.
More info metalworking and machining myself but I do dabble a little in woodworking and always loved it.
You did a great job sharpening and restoring that chisel. Looks really nice now.
I've used linseed oil on my oak knife handles loads of times and it's never been a problem. Quite often needs a few extra applications as it seems to absorb a lot of it though.
Inspiring content, as always!
I have several old woodwork and mechanics tools from my father. Some have dates stamped on them and I still use many
Be cautious about the disposal of your rag/towel that you used to apply the boiled linseed oil. They can and have spontaneously combusted and a fire would be devastating. Best practice I've seen is to burn them (if possible) after you use them. Stay safe, and thanks for the awesome content!
Omg don’t even!- SO so terrified of this happening 😂
@@DaisyTempest Evening Englander , artist here... I put mine in a coffee can outdoors , scared me too... Peace to you ...
I totally burn my too immediately upon finishing with them!! I thought I was the only one doing this. 🤟🏽
I put the oil cloths in a metal container with a metal lid and seal it tightly. When they become hard, you can throw them in the rubbish.
If you ever need to clean up, repair, or even create, finely carved details again, look into gunstock carving tools. In particular, checkering tools
Everything you do is interesting and entertaining.
Thanks so kind. Thank you!
I love chisels, love honing thrm
@Daisy Tempest - My understanding is that using linseed oil on Oak is not suggested because it soaks way in and then it takes too long to dry which can allow mold to form on the uncured oil. Humidity and moisture would exacerbate the issue. Since the wood in question was already finished once, the new oil probably wasn't able to soak that far in. I would store that handle in a nice warm dry place. Boiled linseed dries faster. I've done 4-5 guitars and necks with the stuff, feels good and is pretty durable. Easy to fix/patch/repair too.
Great job Daisy. James Wright always uses boiled linseed oil on oak, so i think it's not a problem.
I think the handle is made of ash wood. William Marples and Sons, Ltd. used to put an ash or beech handle.
Yes a lot of people have said ash. I think you might be right. I’m also wondering if this is the handle she turned herself or if I picked the wrong one out the drawer of them. Which would be a shame as it negates the whole point of the video 😂 shame she’s not around to ask which ones she turned new handles for.
@@DaisyTempest google it Wiliam Marples tools catalog and You will fiind which handle is
@@DaisyTempest It's a stock standard Marples ash handle and they had quite a number of different patterns. My favourite is the "London Pattern" octagonal ones. I will often replace my handles with ones made from rosewood (all types)" or ebony. Linseed oil is fine, but yeah, be careful of spontaneous combustion with any used oil or shellac rags. Your dating of the chisel is not too bad - anything from around 1900 to the mid/late 1940's. After that they tended to have round shanks.
My own $0.02 is that I personally greatly prefer Tung Oil over linseed oil for wood finishing. Tung oil dries clearer, with less of a yellow tone, and ultimately gives a harder, more durable finish. Pure tung oil is safe for food surfaces, and my preferred oil finish, though it does take a long time to fully dry / cure. Multiple coats of tung oil really bring out the grain with a wonderful depth and feel. Tung oil is plant-based and has been used for wood finishing in Asia for centuries. Note that "Tung Oil Finish", which is often more easily found in local hardware stores, is not pure tung oil but, like Boiled Linseed Oil, contains other ingredients and solvents that can make it easier and quicker to work with, but may or may not result in a food-safe surface and the final 'look and feel' is different. So be aware of the difference when purchasing.
Might want to look into gun restoration, like Mark Novak does. They really know what they are talking about, since there is so much money in old guns.
Great work old is better steal great job !!
Wooden Handles are always in your hands. FoodSafe products can be safe and effective for cleaning and maintaining wooden handles. There are old recipes which resemble mayonnaise and you can find hand creams made of natural ingredients. Mayonnaise can be something like a squeeze of lemon, a drop of vinegar and some flaxseed or walnut or even olive oil, no salt or sugar if you are going to use it for wood. The acetic acid in the lemon and vinegar clean and the oil treats the wood. Note that you only make a small amount like a tablespoon of it as you need it, not a 1 litre jar, to clean and maintain a handle, and you can rub it on with bare hands. A "natural" hand cream made with real beeswax and the right essential oil, can be used to maintain a wooden handle as well as be used as a hand cream. A product called Flaxseed oil is linseed oil that has been purified enough so that you can safely drink it and eat it, and it does not have the drying chemicals that are in boiled linseed oil. I suggest you research the secret recipes of the ancients and natural skin care products that include beeswax, flaxseed oil, lavender oil, etc. to find a FoodSafe treatment for your wooden handles.
2:30 You can get one of those cheep vibrating platforms and put that block on it. Then just hold the blade on top. Makes it like an inverted sander but, not.
Nicely done! With a little love and periodic maintenance, it should easily last another hundred years.
For the delicate carvings on the wood, I've found a stiff, nylon bristle brush to be effective and safe. Also, it looks like your diamond stones haven't been cleaned in a while, which will diminish their cutting power. Dishwashing liquid, hot water, and a stiff toothbrush or non-abrasive scotch-brite pad or a sponge with a scouring pad backing.
Its very interesting what what various people define as restored. Some people would just want it cleaned up, and leave the patina of the wood the way it is and the blade the way it is with the rust and dullness. This would be more for display of an old tool. Then there is a restoration where the tool restoration work brings it back as it was brand new,. I like what how you restored it.
No harm no foul on the BLO. If it yellows, and that bothers, can slightly tint subsequent finishes. I go with a mix of spar varnish and polymerized linseed oil. Can thin with mineral spirits, but I just rub it on tool handles as is. A few drops of gunstock colored minwax brings out grain and slight warm color in almost any wood. For a no-harsh-chemical option, way back in the day, they used just beeswax with no issues whether on axes or chisels. YMMV. no warranties, express or implied...
You can use just wet-dry sandpaper at lower grit and work up to your diamond stone. Boiled linseed oil means it has metallic dryers in it to speed up drying. The metal can react with the oak tannins and darken it. Oak and chestnut just happen to have a lager amount of these acids. I suggest using a Pure tung oil. No dryers and will take about a week to fully dry but wont be tacky during that time.
Brilliant and respectful. Be careful of rags with linseed oil on them; they may spontaneously ignite. When linseed oil-soaked rags are left to dry, the oil oxidizes and generates heat. If this heat is trapped, as in a pile of rags, the temperature can rise enough to cause the rags to ignite on their own without any external flame.