My guess is you might have some booster activation but probably not much there is to many things that effect it, like gear ratio, weight, engine torque, load ,it would be hard to tell.
Great series. I’ve been leaning out my Holley (IFR, IAB, and jetting power valve jetting too) with HEI modified distributor runs stronger too. Out of the box carburetors are not optimum for any one car/engine combination. They are a manufacturers guess at a “nominal” slightly modified engine. So doing some experimentation is necessary for more optimum performance/economy. PS your talking example could use some tank time. LOL
Hey don't pick on the old guy lol, a carb is very forgiving but needs to be optimized to perform well , also ignition timing and curve is important . Sounds like your on top your game. Good luck.
I'll start with a contribution on your cash ap..... Need advice....My transfer slot cruise is too rich. I get my transfer slots pretty closed off and idle screws adjusted to AFR of about 13.8. Then when I'm on 2200 RPM cruise speed I'm down in the low 12's. My IFR jets are .035 and you say not to go smaller. I did try smaller and drilled some plugs with 030 but I noticed my drill bores seem much longer than the stock 035 and it was starving for fuel off idle. Put the 035 stock ones back in. Should I open my low speed air bleeds up some? When do the High speed air bleeds come in to play? My primary main jets are pretty small at 67. I'm thinking at this speed the power valve is closed (6.5) and not in play. 750 Mighty Demon on pretty hot street 327 SBC. Thanks. Well I tried to contribute but it's very confusing how to do it. I'll try again, but iIf you have a pay pal account LMK and I'll send that way.
I take it you have .070 idle air bleeds and .031 hsab, first try lowering your float level 1/4" inch, primaries only. This will slow down booster activation so recheck your afr at 2200 let me know if this helps, we may have to go up.005 on the idle air bleeds. Also Check your afr at 2800 cruise and let me know. For right now leave your .035 idle fuel restrictor in place. I don't usually go under .035 on my hi perf. Engines.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 I am too old school for adding another cash ap, and you didn't want Paypal, but you did send me your address and I stuck a check in the mail today.
Thanks! Hello Randy thank you guys for all these videos and doing the effort with trying help us and the other audience is really great. If possible can you answer my questions... if i cruise at low throttle in put its at 14 to 1 but as soon as i go a little down hill , decelerate my AFR goes to 10.5 how could the happen? And if possible can you answer my question on part 1 of these series please... i saw the pay thumbs up option for the first time today and i said last time i would like to give you guys someting for all the advice so i will for Ps. my previos reply on part 1 of the video the reply its much appreciated. only drive it on the street, its got a 351c with and stock shift kit C4 automatic trans a 3.32 gear ration with 29 inch tall tires with the Holley 1850-4 vacuum secondary manual choke siting on top of a dual plane Eldebrock performer intake with a 1 inch 4 hole spacer and a AEM wide band o2. its got 16 degrees timing at idle at around 650 Rpm my goal is to just cruise around with the best fuel mileage possible I also know that i have a 6.5 power valve in the carb which I think is too big since I only have 9 inch vacuum at idle. Any advice is welcome thankyou again
I would hook up a tach, vacuum gauge and your wide band and some one to help you monitor what is happening on decel. If you are closing the throttle on decel and the rpm is above your normal idle speed it creates a higher vacuum signal and will create a rich condition on decel this is just an example , don't know without specific details. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info Randy, where did you say you were getting your Boosters from so I could check out all the different ones they have available. Thanks Lester
The air bleeds are in the air horn area , right above the boosters .They can be pressed in or small threaded jets that are replaceable in (higher end carburetors ).The two most inner ones are your high speed air bleeds that work with your main well and main jets , the two outer ones are your idle air bleeds that control air to you idle circuit Now your idle fuel restrictors that are pressed in factory stock are near the power valve one on each side , the threaded replaceable idle fuel restrictors ( usually high end carburetors )are at the top of the metering blocks threaded in at a angle , this is where you can change idle mixture rich or lean in the idle circuit , now look if these bleeds are not threaded changeable bleeds chances are good you could ruin your carburetor, this is for the more advanced techs and sharp racers only .
Hey Randy!! Thanks for the information. Premium gas is killing me. How critical are intake air temps when trying to get some mileage outta these things?
The heat helps in emulsifing the fuel and freeing up the engine of friction , just like when we start the engine up cold it take so much more fuel to keep it running , even back in the day they ran exhaust across the intake to help build heat in the fuel as Drew past . Now electronic fuel injection uses the intake air temp.sensor to adjust. Fuel and the 02 sensor.. sorry got long winded. Man it's been awhile to long, good to here from you.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Hey brother that's exactly what I was curious about. I know most "hotrod" intakes close up that exhaust intake crossover runner but I couldn't figure if a cooler denser air charge would burn more efficiently and therefore increase mileage OR just increase the amount of fuel/air the engine is able to pump and decrease mileage by using more fuel. Thanks for taking the time to talk. Keep em coming 🍻🍻🇺🇸
I don't know for sure , I want a dual wide band set up . I'm looking at innovate right now , not sure which one ,I want a dual wide band to read both banks and a good extended warranty that will cover the 02 sensors , be careful some warranties exclude the 02s.
Thanks!
Thanks for watching
Love your series. Thank you. Keep em coming.
Thank you Richard.
Where can i buy anulaer boosters, how much do they cost, thanks randy
I believe Blp racing products sells boosters, you may need a booster install tool . Hope this helps.
Damnbest carburetor has the design angular boosters...
I guess
With an overdrive running below 2300 is all the cruise on the transfers? Also how do u know when u are on the booster without a camera or a tps?
My guess is you might have some booster activation but probably not much there is to many things that effect it, like gear ratio, weight, engine torque, load ,it would be hard to tell.
Great series. I’ve been leaning out my Holley (IFR, IAB, and jetting power valve jetting too) with HEI modified distributor runs stronger too. Out of the box carburetors are not optimum for any one car/engine combination. They are a manufacturers guess at a “nominal” slightly modified engine. So doing some experimentation is necessary for more optimum performance/economy. PS your talking example could use some tank time. LOL
Hey don't pick on the old guy lol, a carb is very forgiving but needs to be optimized to perform well , also ignition timing and curve is important . Sounds like your on top your game. Good luck.
I'll start with a contribution on your cash ap..... Need advice....My transfer slot cruise is too rich. I get my transfer slots pretty closed off and idle screws adjusted to AFR of about 13.8. Then when I'm on 2200 RPM cruise speed I'm down in the low 12's. My IFR jets are .035 and you say not to go smaller. I did try smaller and drilled some plugs with 030 but I noticed my drill bores seem much longer than the stock 035 and it was starving for fuel off idle. Put the 035 stock ones back in. Should I open my low speed air bleeds up some? When do the High speed air bleeds come in to play? My primary main jets are pretty small at 67. I'm thinking at this speed the power valve is closed (6.5) and not in play. 750 Mighty Demon on pretty hot street 327 SBC. Thanks. Well I tried to contribute but it's very confusing how to do it. I'll try again, but iIf you have a pay pal account LMK and I'll send that way.
I take it you have .070 idle air bleeds and .031 hsab, first try lowering your float level 1/4" inch, primaries only. This will slow down booster activation so recheck your afr at 2200 let me know if this helps, we may have to go up.005 on the idle air bleeds. Also Check your afr at 2800 cruise and let me know. For right now leave your .035 idle fuel restrictor in place. I don't usually go under .035 on my hi perf. Engines.
Our CashApp is $AirandFuelGuru
I appreciate the support to help the channel grow , but I will always try to answer your questions regardless. Take care.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 I am too old school for adding another cash ap, and you didn't want Paypal, but you did send me your address and I stuck a check in the mail today.
Thanks!
Hello Randy thank you guys for all these videos and doing the effort with trying help us and the other audience is really great.
If possible can you answer my questions... if i cruise at low throttle in put its at 14 to 1 but as soon as i go a little down hill , decelerate my AFR goes to 10.5 how could the happen? And if possible can you answer my question on part 1 of these series please... i saw the pay thumbs up option for the first time today and i said last time i would like to give you guys someting for all the advice so i will for
Ps.
my previos reply on part 1 of the video
the reply its much appreciated. only drive it on the street, its got a 351c with and stock shift kit C4 automatic
trans
a 3.32 gear ration with 29 inch tall tires with the Holley 1850-4 vacuum secondary manual choke siting on top of
a dual plane Eldebrock performer intake with a 1 inch 4 hole spacer and a AEM wide band o2. its got 16 degrees timing at idle at around 650 Rpm my goal is to just cruise around with the best fuel mileage possible I also know that i have a 6.5 power valve in the carb which I think is too big since I only have 9 inch vacuum at idle.
Any advice is welcome thankyou again
I would hook up a tach, vacuum gauge and your wide band and some one to help you monitor what is happening on decel. If you are closing the throttle on decel and the rpm is above your normal idle speed it creates a higher vacuum signal and will create a rich condition on decel this is just an example , don't know without specific details. Hope this helps.
Most likely heavy vacuum on downhill decell....it will pull harder on fuel circuits (IFR’s)
Thanks for the info Randy, where did you say you were getting your Boosters from so I could check out all the different ones they have available.
Thanks Lester
Google Blp racing go to carb parts and then select all componets.. thanks Lester.
Where do I find the air bleeds and idle circuit jets
The air bleeds are in the air horn area , right above the boosters .They can be pressed in or small threaded jets that are replaceable in (higher end carburetors ).The two most inner ones are your high speed air bleeds that work with your main well and main jets , the two outer ones are your idle air bleeds that control air to you idle circuit Now your idle fuel restrictors that are pressed in factory stock are near the power valve one on each side , the threaded replaceable idle fuel restrictors ( usually high end carburetors )are at the top of the metering blocks threaded in at a angle , this is where you can change idle mixture rich or lean in the idle circuit , now look if these bleeds are not threaded changeable bleeds chances are good you could ruin your carburetor, this is for the more advanced techs and sharp racers only .
Hey Randy.
What does putting a 160* thermostat in a 70’s motor do for power and gas mileage?
The object is a hot rotating assembly and a cool mixture.
Holley Carbs: How To's & Advice ,40 yrs of exp. -👍🤓😎
Hey Randy!! Thanks for the information. Premium gas is killing me. How critical are intake air temps when trying to get some mileage outta these things?
The heat helps in emulsifing the fuel and freeing up the engine of friction , just like when we start the engine up cold it take so much more fuel to keep it running , even back in the day they ran exhaust across the intake to help build heat in the fuel as Drew past . Now electronic fuel injection uses the intake air temp.sensor to adjust. Fuel and the 02 sensor.. sorry got long winded. Man it's been awhile to long, good to here from you.
@@holleycarbshowtosadvice40y90 Hey brother that's exactly what I was curious about. I know most "hotrod" intakes close up that exhaust intake crossover runner but I couldn't figure if a cooler denser air charge would burn more efficiently and therefore increase mileage OR just increase the amount of fuel/air the engine is able to pump and decrease mileage by using more fuel. Thanks for taking the time to talk. Keep em coming 🍻🍻🇺🇸
Hi Randy quick question; what particular brand and model air fuel gauge do you personally use?
I don't know for sure , I want a dual wide band set up . I'm looking at innovate right now , not sure which one ,I want a dual wide band to read both banks and a good extended warranty that will cover the 02 sensors , be careful some warranties exclude the 02s.
Thanks for the info. I’ll check out the Innovate