Click here for a new piston and cylinder---- amzn.to/3tJKsmj Correct Way To Sharpen A Chainsaw---- ruclips.net/video/-GIxowey6IQ/видео.html Scored Piston and Cylinder on a ChainSaw---- ruclips.net/video/Iay9-rmhWEA/видео.html Adjust Or Tune The Carburetor On A Chainsaw---- ruclips.net/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/видео.html How To Tell WHY Your Piston is Destroyed---- ruclips.net/video/b6BfSwtjTIQ/видео.html Click here for my website--- www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ Click here for my Parts and Tools Store---- www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon LET THE SAW WARM UP FOR A BARE MINIMUM OF 60 SECONDS. LONGER WON'T HURT!
I took a briggs and stratton small engine repair class in school. We would TOTALLY tear down and rebuild from the ground up . My instructor insisted EVERYTIME you cold started the motor, to allow 20 Mississippi seconds at idle for proper cylinder expansion time. Very good video. Very professional advice.
Fox In tha dark I fill my chainsaw at my shed, start it and let it idle as I walk to my work site. Never had a problem with seizing in over 30 years. Running a cold motor at high speed is asking for trouble. Besides stalling when cold, it just doesn’t run well until warmed up so wait a couple of minutes.
@@Mote78 I had an 1850 Oliver tractor with a 354 Perkins diesel engine. I "Cold started "and loaded the tractor. Didn't make 1 pass around the field before the engine locked up. Removed head, found 1 piston/sleeve had seized. R&R piston and sleeve there in the field. From then on, I always allow an engine to "Warm Up" before applying a full load on it.
I start my saws, place them on the ground where I am cutting and let em idle for 5 minutes. Besides being good for my saw the vibration clears out the snakes.
I am guilty of not letting my chainsaw warm up😩. Thanks to your video, I will from this day forward, mend my evil ways...long live my Stihl and Steve!!👍
I know that chainsaws and vehicles are, so to speak, different animals. I would guess, however, that the same advice would apply to vehicles-let them warm up first, before driving them. I can't tell you how many times I've just started my vehicle, and just took off, without letting it warm up first. I'm lucky to have a functional vehicle! I need to remind myself:let your vehicle warm up a few minutes, before taking off!
@@ronaldshank7589 Unless it's extremely cold out, just start your car when you get in, do the thing with your seatbelt, mirrors, radio etc. and just drive off. Drive smoothly, no jackrabbit starts, leadfooting etc. and you'll be just fine. No need to sit in it and idle the mill for a minute or two--it just isn't needed. When very cold outside, it takes time to scrape the ice off the glass and brush the snow away, so it warms up a bit while you're on that.
This channel is gold. Get machine info that all need to know, yet there no where to get it. We all use equipment and misuse it. Steve reminds me of the dad/uncle we all need.
YES! They stressed this at the Stihl factory training (Gold level) that I went to a decade or so ago. Nice to see someone giving actual good advice on RUclips.
My dealer told me to run mine wide open to warm it up as soon as I start it. My new saw wouldn't idle correctly and that's the recommendations he gave me. I took it to another dealer and he adjusted my carb and it starts and idles perfectly now. My original dealer told me he'd charge me a shop charge to adjust it and it was a brand new saw under warranty. I called and emailed Stihl telling them how he treated me as a customer cause $500 is a lot of money to pay for something that runs correctly and the dealer trying to charge me for something that should be under warranty
well the fact that he explains a very quick thing in 7 minutes. 1 minute vid saying don't use chainsaw cold because this will happen because of this reason (shows piston). done in 1 minute.
This really is a fantastic video. My dad always tells me not to instantly rev up a chainsaw and just lightly run the motor for about 30 seconds to warm it up. Until now, I haven’t known why, but I just followed it.
Another great video Steve. I’m no mechanic or gardener, just a hobbyist, however, I think it’s important to warm up any internal combustion engine. It only makes sense given expansion and contraction as well as lubrication. Treat your equipment well, service on time and it’ll do you a long, long time ;)
I agree...Same thing with automobiles when really cold in winter. Manufacturers tell you it is not really necessary to warm the engine a few minutes....I don't trust that...BS ...I warm my car engine 2-3 minutes when it is minus 10 Celsius or less....This is pure common sense IMHO. Come on...
I was taught this as a youngster, My Dad said to let your power saw equilize before making your first cut. Thanks for showing what happens when you don't.
Equally important: Check your chain bar oil each time you add fuel. If you hold the tip of the chain saw near a light colored surface, rev it up a little, and see if it slings oil onto the surface. If it does, you know your chain bar is properly lubricated. By the time you've done that, the engine is warmed enough to go to work! That saves your engine AND your chain bar.
good to know. I'd heard because its 2cycle ,its getting instant oiling so i dont need to warm up like 4 cycle, so i was thinking of the oil warming up not the cylinder. thanks !
Let every engine warm up before you nail the throttle. It’ll save you money over the years. Car, tractor, lawnmower. It won’t seize like a chainsaw but it does nothing good to rev a cold engine hard.
Yeppers, having reached geezerhood myself I usually look the job over and decide how the whole job will go before even pulling any tool(s) out. Before they forced me to retire the kids, (those under 30), would laugh and snicker at how slow I was, then ask me questions as to how I always accomplished so much more than they did, and never had to do the job twice. The grey hair should show wisdom from the years gone by.
welcome to geezerhood. where are the geezers when the universe started. they warmed it up alright. ancient of days need to show up and get some work done.
My dad taught me about this when I was young. He said the simplest way to avoid this sort of thing being a problem, is start the chainsaw in your garage or shed, and then walk with it over to where you're going to work with it while it's at idle. By the time you get there, she'll be warm enough to go to town. Problem solved. Great video!
We are a small mom and pop lawnmower shop, and can't tell how many of these we see as well ! We do sell, and highly recommend a product that significantly reduces the cold start friction issue. But most of the people bringing us a chainsaw with this condition, is just about too late for their saw unfortunately ! By the time we would put the necessary labor into the required repair, you can usually be better off to just go buy another saw ! Really sad ! A few seconds of warm-up can keep your saws ( if they are a quality brand ) running for a lifetime if cared for properly ! Most important, NEVER cut corners on a cheaper 2cycle oil ! Always, Always, Always, use a quality premium 2cycle oil ! And please folks, this gentleman is 100% correct ! Warm up your equipment before putting them to work ! All equipment, not just your chainsaws ! Excellent advice sir ! Excellent ! Thank you !
@@MjrNiGhTmArE It is called MT10 From a company called Muscle Grease, I would be happy to send you a small sample of, it doesn't take much for it to work.
quadsman11 That sounds great! I have a brand new chainsaw that I just started using to prep for this coming winters firewood needs, so it’s going to be getting quite a work out. How do I contact you?
@@MjrNiGhTmArE Well, First off, This product works extremely well, So much so, that they don't want you to use it in any brand new engine, otherwise, it will not wear in correctly. I would recommend that you put about 5-6 hrs. on it before you use it. That means, You just need to let it warm up for a few minutes before you start using it hard.
I am an avid snowmobiler... I always new this about the sleds being so cold when you first start them. But I never thought about cold seized chain saws. I now will let my saw run for a bit . Thanks for more education
I don't use my chainsaw that often, but when I do it usually takes me a couple minutes to get to cutting. I have MS and can't just jump to work. I move like I'm 80 years old. My chainsaw is hard to start so it has time to warm up while I recover from pulling the rope. But you give good advice! Thanks a lot!
We cannot make completely round holes. The pistons have flaws as do the bearing journals. When you first run any engine it needs to wear off those high spots. Idling and low stress running will knock those off. Hard usage will cause a seizure like he showed. Very typical. Just fire it up and go at it during the very first tank of gas. The tight spots just tear themselves up instead of slowly wearing down.
Great video. This is a problem with 2-stroke race bikes also. We let them warm up till the radiator cap is hot before we rev the hell out of them. Reboring and replating a cylinder plus the cost of a new piston/rings usually teaches us not to do this. Thanks for putting this great information out there.
I guess I am old school. I was born on the 60's where cars had manual chokes and you had to let the engine warm up before using it. Oh well old habits never die. Thanks for the video though. It confirms what I have been doing when starting these engines over the years. I will make sure and pass it on to to my friends. By the way. I love your beer and liquor rack in the back ground. Beautiful decor.
60-70's you had to let it idle and warm up FOR REASONS NOT because of this.... cough shit carbs that couldnt run a engine cold until the very later years of the 80s ... really ?
I fixed my two chain saws and a echo weed wacker watching these videos. My chain saw I bought with house in 1990's its an echo cs4400 as my 1998 echo srm 2400 weed wacker. I use them every season. My saw chains are sharper and bar is cleaner, my saws are better stored , better winterized. I learned more here on Steve's channel than anywhere is. I rebuild things now. I fix my neighbors small engines and saws now, as a way of giving back. Thank you Steve. Cheers to you from Oregon.
I was bad for doing this when I was younger, an old timer saw me do it, and needless to say after a 90 min lecture. I don't do it anymore. I used to be running out of the gate, as soon as we got to the landing, I'd start something up, and go. That lasted all of one day when I started for him. Good info.
I've always let all my saws warm up for a while then just coax some throttle to it. I know way to many cold seizure candidate guys, they're usually the same guys burning through wood at full throttle usually after running the bar into the ground. One of my most reliable is my old Homelite XL12, it just never ever fails. The key is not to let donkey's operate your stuff.
Yep... I used to allow others to borrow only tools made out of one piece of solid metal; hammers, wrenches, etc. Once I realized that they could destroy those just as well, I stopped doing even that. I could have something for 20 years, loan it out for the first time, and it come back ruined! Now, if I can't use the tool FOR them, they're out of luck...
Neighbors seemed to be reasonable and careful, talk a great story. Takes a couple months to get blower/mulcher back, I bought a new one as my yard has a few dozen oaks. It came back well broken, wouldn't run for more than15 seconds, I had only had it 12 years working beautifully. Now the neighbors get mad because I won't loan any tools out. They have nerve to ask me to loan them my new Honda snow thrower or my spare generator.
I've slow-warmed ALL my engines and get long lives from them, along with never so running dirty oil. I was an Engineman/Machinery Tech in the US Coast Guard; learned a lot!
This is good to know! I’m a carpenter based out of Pensacola, Fl. and we use chainsaws to top pilings and most use them exactly how you mentioned! I try to take better care of my tools but I didn’t know this was that horrible for the saw.
Had a "PowerEquipment" company tell me that a saw I had bought from them a couple years previously needed some major engine work, and it wouldn't be worth fixing... recommended buying a new saw. Took it to a rural saw shop and they fixed it for like $20. A rubber boot had slipped off somewhere which had made it run horribly. Can't always trust the same shop to repair a machine bought there.
I noticed the slow ways my Dad done things when I was a young boy 48 45 years ago, he always let the car warm up and never raced the engine up cold , even kept oil in the house in cold weather before he changed oil , he always started the Dozer he ran at work and warmed it up , I didn't understand then why he was so slow moving and sometimes strange to me. I am now the same man at 58 that he was back then, good ol fashion life lessons are priceless .
I'm pretty new to operating a chainsaw and out of all the videos on RUclips your videos are not only very helpful but easy to understand. thank you for your vids man.
Thank you so much, you saved me tons of money plus brought lots of knowledge to a newbie like myself. Firstly I'd like to say that I'd just bought a STIHL 18" chainsaw, brand-new! I am watching almost every video out there before I start using it and I appreciate all the information that you provided.
Mines just came the other day a parker 58cc with 20" bar, still a bit apprehensive about using it tbh as its some bit of kit. Chainsaw gloves will be next on the list i think.
Get the required safety equipment, an experienced operator to teach you or find a safety class. You're about to operate one of the most dangerous tools available. Read the owners manual, congrats on the new saw!
@@heavysnow8616 Soooo true !!! I don't believe my eyes when I see people operating a chain saw with sneakers and shorts and a t-shirt, no eye or head protection !!! They even should NOT sell chainsaws over the counter without a little course of 2-3 hours....
I’ve been doing it right all along and I thought I was just being fanatical. I warm up all my power equipment before I use it. Another great video Steve. Thanks.
good advice,and I would like to add something to this if you dont mind.Some folks do warm up their saws,but I bet very few think about letting the saw cool down before shutting it off.A saw cutting in hard wood with a dull chain (which should be a no-no)can get very hot,and the cooling fan/flywheel cant really move enough air to keep it cool.Let a hot saw sit and idle and disperse some of that heat before shutting down,will save you a lot of unnecessary wear on the jug.As always,great videos Steve.
Yup, cool down just as important.... and with cars.... if you have a turbo and just got through hammering it before pulling in your drive way. Let that car idle 5 till 10 minutes till cool that turbo you just got blazing hot so it doesn't coke the oil in the turbo and blow the turbo up.
@@timm.6391 I remember my brother in law pulling into my driveway a couple times a year in his Kenworth.He would let that truck sit and idle for over an hour.I think diesel was 79 cents a gallon back then.Today you can watch trucks pull right off the interstate into a rest area and immediately shut the engine down.
@@pallmall5495 I've seen that before when I was heading to Colorado. People don't think they have the time for it, but it's faster to do something right rather than do it wrong and have to wait forever to get it fixed.
My Grandpaw taught me this when I was somewhere around 14. That would be,,,,mmmm, 1965, ( I think). Even though I retired my 041, it still ran fine after 34 years. Thanks Steve, you brought back a very fond memory.
Thanks for this important information; I had no idea and I've been using chainsaws for 41 years !!! I will certainly warm up my saws in the future. Thanks again Steve.
I always warm up everything I run. Never heard of this but do now. Surprised this hasn't happened to my father in law yet!! Thanks for all you do! Cheers 🍻
Thumbs up man. I watched this video some months ago when I only owned a battery chainsaw. Now I have 2 gas ones and I have been warming them up properly from day 1.
Wow!! Makes perfect sense as I hear you explain it. The piston has far less mass therefore heating up much faster. Great video !! You are the man Steve! 👍👍👍
Very clear explanation. I have seen this happen on snowmobiles. People are in too big of hurry. Warm them up! Engines are engineered to run at "operation temp".
I've always, just start up and GO since it's two cycle it doesn't need to warm up vs four cycle. Thank you Stevie for the great reveal on damage's that occurs when not warming up. Raising my bottle of Grolisch... Cheers!
This is a little bit unrelated but something to look out for before you junk a Stihl with bad compression reading. We were taking BR600 and KM 94 to a repair shop. A bunch came back as NFG. My company owner investigated more and discovered the crankshaft seals are a common failure. Replacing those fixes low compression readings.
Your information is priceless......my father, a mechanic taught me about warming up a chainsaw long ago so your video showed the bad spot on the piston he talked about....keep the good stuff ...beverages included flowing
What you're suggesting makes good sense: warming up (idling) a saw for a minute before using it. I've never seen an arborist or professional tree feller do this. Usually, right after starting a saw, they rev it up several times (Vrrooom, vrooom, vroom) before they start cutting. 'Guess idling after starting a blower would make sense, too. Thanks for the heads-up!
With arborists, time's $ & most of 'em won't/don't work on their stuff except maybe chain sharpening. Buddy of mine took on maintaining an arborist's equipment. This was in addition to his regular job. They ran him ragged! He showed me an 066 Stihl he'd rebuilt, a week later showed me the same saw where it was crushed! Then he was accused of stealing from 'em. I later was asked by the same people to work on their stuff, I said no way! When asked why, I related my friend's tale. They had a foreman that was like a bull in a china shop & the $ wasn't coming out of his pocket.
imo, the Vrrooom, vrooom, vroom does nothing except waste fuel, and cause unnecessary wear to the engine, & throttle trigger, lol. It is a very satisfying sound must admit that. Also makes the professionals at least SOUND as if they are really going to work on the customers tree, which said customer is paying hundreds of dollars to have taken down. Even vintage piston aircraft, never heard them feathering the throttle, they ran the engines up gradually. Chainsaws aren't aircraft I admit, with that said beyond idling warm up; no need to run up and preflight your chainsaw to maximum power before engaging with the wood. Chainsaw isn't going to crash on takeoff.
I always start my saw by the garage, so by the time I get to where I'm working at the time it's warmed up. Never really thought about the warm-up, now I will. Thanks...
2:28 AM and I just came in from the garage/shop, and first thing I do, is watch a tinkering video. LMAO!! I've been wanting to drink a beer with you. Was a pleasure!! Thanks for the knowledge, my friend!
Thank you, this is a great explanation and very helpful. (BTW....my dad always told me, if you handle power tools and firearms, never mix it with alcohol or weed...wait until your done, then enjoy your drink or your joint.)
Well wait, if you've been running saws for 30 years without knowing this, have you been seizing up saws from "cold starting" em? Or has it not been a problem?
@@JonALewis Been running saws for 50 years also two stroke motocross bikes never had this problem and I'm afraid I'm guilty of sometimes firing them up and getting on with the job. Im not for a minute discrediting what Steve is saying and it makes sence but cheap oil, wrong mixture, but revving the motor out when its running out of fuel imo is something I've never done as I was told they would be running lean. I have time now to let my kit warm up I will take this on board every little helps.
Your videos are much appreciated. Just purchased my first chainsaw last year and any time I have a question I look to your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
great vid, never heard of cold seizure. knowledge is money. after the motor warms up, I run it before I go into the tree and let the chain stretch so that I can adjust this slack on the ground. better than effen around with the saw in the tree
I must be doing things right. my 10 year old MS260 still runs like a champ. heck, the 40 year old weed eater I "inherited" from my dad finally died from no longer being able to get replacement plastics last year... I gave it back so he could use the gearbox to replace the damaged gearbox form the one he replaced it with.
Own the homeowner version of your saw, MS251. Always been difficult to start, but wanted to comment that with mine, you simply HAVE to allow the saw idle to warm up a bit as it simply will not throttle up until it gets ready to. Stihl BG 56c, think it is, anyway blower is a lot the same way, has to run 2-3 minutes before it'll hit maximum speed and really start humming.
I gave you a thumbs up, well explained and demonstrated. My dad was an aircraft engineer and taught me lots but it’s still good to see videos like yours spreading the gospel, thanks
My Dad was a landscaper for over 30 years and used to tell me the same thing! You are a Boss and know your stuff (I've watched a number of your videos), and you have great taste in Beer! :)
if you say so.. im a landscaper as well 17 years now, im still using the 2 stroke equipment ive had since i bought them over a decade ago never an issue running full throttle after startup...
I let all engines warm up good especially my turbo VW, gotta get that oil warm and flowing good. Another good tip, let your engines idle for a minute or two when you are done using it, helps the engine cool down before shutting down.
@@alanharding8762 Hey, my passat turbo-diesel is dead reliable, nearly as efficient as a prius, and can tow more than most cars in it's class. Put alot of time bombing down logging roads, and she's holding together great
yes I start my saw, always 1 minute before I cut anything. so that was the proper way to do it! I was always concerned about idling too much, fowling the muffler or plug. have a great day!
Steve, so often what you say is just plain common sense, seems folks should get it. But you bring a lot of well earned respect and knowledge to put some icing on that common sense cake. I watch all your videos and I love 'em,,,,, even though I quit drinking beer about 5 weed wackers ago.
Steve love your videos. Crystal clear instructions covering all the key issues. I set all my gear up using your guidance. Great job man from Mike in the UK. 👍
@@WJCTechyman that statement is not exactly correct. While the carbureted engine benefits from the warm-up so do fuel injected models. It's better to give it a few minutes, and let the engine warm so that the engine oil pressure can get up so that it can start lubricating the top end and even main bearing will benefit. I'm also pretty sure that Steve's example of the Piston expanding faster then the rest of the engine is also true with a large engine although I don't know that it would have as much impact on a larger engine than a smaller hotter 2 stroke.
@@WJCTechyman Fuel delivery methods have nothing to do with core thermal expansion. The only reason you needed to warm up carbureted engines more is because of the carb itself (cold fuel is less-volatile than hot fuel). Pistons still heat faster than the block does, and while an automotive engine is unlikely to have this issue, you still don't just start rolling before the starter has spun down because cold starts are where you have the most wear. Cold engine parts are not the same shape as hot engine parts, so you want to avoid high loads and high speeds on any cold engine, regardless of type.
Steve thanks for the heads up on cold start damage. Rebuilt my first personal husky 372 with low compression and when I tor it down had the exact damage in the exact same place as you showed in your video. I thought it was just a lot of use at the time, but know I know it was my no warm up that caused that damage. Thanks for the eye opener it wont happen again!
You couldn'tbe more right. "Lets go! Time is money", shouted every framing contractor ever. Some actually understand that tools are money too, time spent messing around with broken tools is money, time spent going to purchase new tools is money, gas is money. Very few the patience to find that sweet spot.
Third video of yours that I've run into. Although i've been messing with small engines since i was a young boy, i find your videos to be FULL of great information!! Youve earned a sub, sir. Keep wrenching.
I'm so glad I found this , own 3 chainsaws , only 1 working ( after putting it in the shop ). This lesson will go for everything with a motor far as I'm concerned . Thanks !
Being from the upper midwest and always cutting wood in freezing temperatures, I learned quickly that warming up your engines are a necessity. Cold saws were noticeably underpowered until they warmed up. I didn't know the why or what the damage it could do until now, so Thanks Steve for explaining why! Also, I drank a LOT of Grolsch Pilsner when I worked in Netherlands! Good job on getting the bottled as the canned ruins the flavor. I really like their Herfstbok!
Never let a beer warm up before you drink it! You want a cold start there my man! Once you drink it, you can forget using the chainsaw. The wear and tear factor on the saw goes way down. Problem solved, less work, more beer!
I have an old husqvarna 162 with no compression Sure enough, piston ring seized and scored the hell out of the piston. Right in that spot you showed in this vid Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Love the videos, Steve. I have always been the go to guy for small engines on up and I still learn new stuff every day. I use you tube all the time to get tips ad tricks when fixing and troubleshooting. I am a life long mechanical and electronic technician. I retired as a senior industrial maintenance technician. I have thought about starting a channel to teach others some of what I know from 45+ years of fixing stuff. Is it worth all the investments and time? Keep up the good work
Your individual life experience is always valuable to others. Maybe your videos can be passed on to your grandkids and beyond, you get to last forever. Use it or lose it. All the best
Thank You Steve! For some 40+ years I would sharpen the chains on the saws, fuel them up, fill the bar oil, get my PPE on and then start the saw up to get it warm before I would walk to the work site so that they would start easy once there and ready to cut. I did not have a clue about cold starting / seizing up until I saw this video! I guess I was just lucky that the short warm up run to ensure it would start easy later when I got to the wood served to warm up the piston which in turn warmed up the cylinder so they both could expand a bit. Sometimes you just get lucky. In the future, the warm up will be a bit longer and have new meaning, especially in the winter. Thank again for the cost saving tip 👍.
I'll say it AGAIN Steve, you just may be the (mechanically) smartest Canadian I know! (even smarter than my old boss!) I may be a bit of a wizz kid with a keen intuition when it comes to 99% of things mechanical and have a solid "hunch" why things just aren't working right, but leave it to YOUR VIDEOS to confirm my intuitions! And what makes it even better is you SHARE that knowledge! BRAVO SIR! Seriously, you want to let ANY engine idle for at least a good 60 seconds minimum before you hit the throttle to let the oil circulate and lube everything internally, and it's not really a good idea to go full wide open throttle even for about 2-3 minutes.
Shell Cracker Yes, but some people take idling to an extreme and that isn't best for engines either. Especially vehicles when it's very cold out. Most engine wear happens before the engine reaches ideal operation temperature. Driving a vehicle while taking it easy (not peddle to the floor) will warm up much faster than idling, thus reducing unnecessary engine wear.
@@Tyler-zw4kq I would use a block heater if it was still cold (no heat in the cab) after 15 minutes. I have lived in -40 degrees climates and it does take forever to warm up an engine at idle. That is precisely why I would drive after a couple minutes. 5-7 minutes of driving and the heater is starting to blow warm air.
@@gordthor5351 Yes, some do idle for extreme. There's a guy in my apartment complex warms up his car for 5 minutes every time, he's got a loud exhaust so it wakes me up in the morning. During the winter time (Phoenix, so winter is like 50 degrees) he warms it up closer to 10 minutes.
@Gord Thor Agreed on people taking vehicle warm ups too far. Generally, if you wait for the RPM to drop to normal idle speed or 30 seconds (whichever is first), you've let it go long enough. The exception is if you're scraping ice or fogging up the windshield. Then you let it idle while defrost does its job.
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Adjust Or Tune The Carburetor On A Chainsaw---- ruclips.net/video/M6T5JoGXcHY/видео.html
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LET THE SAW WARM UP FOR A BARE MINIMUM OF 60 SECONDS. LONGER WON'T HURT!
Steve's Small Engine Saloon I was about to ask! Stave Steve
- Kiva
😐😕⌚
Answered my dumb question. Thanks Steve!
Chainsaws are like 100 meter sprinters, need warming up to finish the race.
Steve, maybe this is a stupid question but why would framers be using a chainsaw?
I took a briggs and stratton small engine repair class in school. We would TOTALLY tear down and rebuild from the ground up . My instructor insisted EVERYTIME you cold started the motor, to allow 20 Mississippi seconds at idle for proper cylinder expansion time. Very good video. Very professional advice.
Fox In tha dark
I fill my chainsaw at my shed, start it and let it idle as I walk to my work site. Never had a problem with seizing in over 30 years. Running a cold motor at high speed is asking for trouble. Besides stalling when cold, it just doesn’t run well until warmed up so wait a couple of minutes.
@@Mote78 I had an 1850 Oliver tractor with a 354 Perkins diesel engine. I "Cold started "and loaded the tractor. Didn't make 1 pass around the field before the engine locked up. Removed head, found 1 piston/sleeve had seized. R&R piston and sleeve there in the field. From then on, I always allow an engine to "Warm Up" before applying a full load on it.
Thanks for the info, Fox. I thought one minute would do. Guess I'm safe.
Someone needs to do a proper statistical analysis of how long Mississippi seconds are relative to SI seconds.
@@Juttutin 1 Mississippi = 1.382 SI seconds
I start my saws, place them on the ground where I am cutting and let em idle for 5 minutes. Besides being good for my saw the vibration clears out the snakes.
LOL! Right on
Must be from midwest. All snakes here in Oklahoma will clear out but the cotton mouth like a challenge.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon thanks for the heads up
Should put some idle chainsaws on the floor of congress then...
I can't let mine just sit on the ground running. It will bounce and hop all over the place.
I am guilty of not letting my chainsaw warm up😩. Thanks to your video, I will from this day forward, mend my evil ways...long live my Stihl and Steve!!👍
Right on Mark!
I’m guilty as well
I learned to utilize my time of letting it warm up while I get my other equipment ready.
@@Daniel08353 that’s a fine idea, I’m always standing around looking like a dolt
Repent!!!Sinners beware, you will get rewards for your deeds.
warm any piston engine up first, some advice from 100 years ago is still valid!
I know that chainsaws and vehicles are, so to speak, different animals. I would guess, however, that the same advice would apply to vehicles-let them warm up first, before driving them. I can't tell you how many times I've just started my vehicle, and just took off, without letting it warm up first. I'm lucky to have a functional vehicle! I need to remind myself:let your vehicle warm up a few minutes, before taking off!
In sick of people telling me you dont have to warm up many engine you are correct! Warm it up
My engine " if that's the case then tell JAY LENO to fire up his classic cars and instantly drive off ,
My engine"
@@ronaldshank7589 Unless it's extremely cold out, just start your car when you get in, do the thing with your seatbelt, mirrors, radio etc. and just drive off. Drive smoothly, no jackrabbit starts, leadfooting etc. and you'll be just fine. No need to sit in it and idle the mill for a minute or two--it just isn't needed.
When very cold outside, it takes time to scrape the ice off the glass and brush the snow away, so it warms up a bit while you're on that.
This channel is gold. Get machine info that all need to know, yet there no where to get it. We all use equipment and misuse it. Steve reminds me of the dad/uncle we all need.
Right on
I never had this happen to myself or anyone I know. However. I have started to allow my chainsaws to warm up now. After watching this video. Thanks
YES! They stressed this at the Stihl factory training (Gold level) that I went to a decade or so ago. Nice to see someone giving actual good advice on RUclips.
Right on...
Is there any book or information like the Gold Level training that ordinary folks can find?
My dealer told me to run mine wide open to warm it up as soon as I start it. My new saw wouldn't idle correctly and that's the recommendations he gave me. I took it to another dealer and he adjusted my carb and it starts and idles perfectly now. My original dealer told me he'd charge me a shop charge to adjust it and it was a brand new saw under warranty. I called and emailed Stihl telling them how he treated me as a customer cause $500 is a lot of money to pay for something that runs correctly and the dealer trying to charge me for something that should be under warranty
Who. Could give this guy thumbs down he knows what he is talking about.
Thank You...
Probably a construction guy or a framer..
Ken Grindle I’m sure it’s repair guys thinking he’s costing them money.
well the fact that he explains a very quick thing in 7 minutes. 1 minute vid saying don't use chainsaw cold because this will happen because of this reason (shows piston). done in 1 minute.
@@micke6705 bottom feeders
This really is a fantastic video. My dad always tells me not to instantly rev up a chainsaw and just lightly run the motor for about 30 seconds to warm it up. Until now, I haven’t known why, but I just followed it.
That is awesome!
Another great video Steve.
I’m no mechanic or gardener, just a hobbyist, however, I think it’s important to warm up any internal combustion engine. It only makes sense given expansion and contraction as well as lubrication. Treat your equipment well, service on time and it’ll do you a long, long time ;)
Well said!
I agree...Same thing with automobiles when really cold in winter. Manufacturers tell you it is not really necessary to warm the engine a few minutes....I don't trust that...BS ...I warm my car engine 2-3 minutes when it is minus 10 Celsius or less....This is pure common sense IMHO. Come on...
@1983dmd At those low temperatures, you need a few minutes of warm up just to keep your windshield from fogging while you drive.
I've always allowed my small 2 and 4 stroke engines to warm up before putting a load on them. Outboards especially! Never a problem. Thanks Steve. 👍
I was taught this as a youngster, My Dad said to let your power saw equilize before making your first cut. Thanks for showing what happens when you don't.
You're Welcome...
New to chain saws. You probably just saved me a lot of grief.
Right on buddy...
Equally important: Check your chain bar oil each time you add fuel. If you hold the tip of the chain saw near a light colored surface, rev it up a little, and see if it slings oil onto the surface. If it does, you know your chain bar is properly lubricated. By the time you've done that, the engine is warmed enough to go to work! That saves your engine AND your chain bar.
good to know. I'd heard because its 2cycle ,its getting instant oiling so i dont need to warm up like 4 cycle, so i was thinking of the oil warming up not the cylinder. thanks !
Im new too...thank you!
Let every engine warm up before you nail the throttle. It’ll save you money over the years. Car, tractor, lawnmower. It won’t seize like a chainsaw but it does nothing good to rev a cold engine hard.
Great advice. In my case having reached geezerhood I'm slow enough the saw has plenty of time to warm up.
Yeppers, having reached geezerhood myself I usually look the job over and decide how the whole job will go before even pulling any tool(s) out.
Before they forced me to retire the kids, (those under 30), would laugh and snicker at how slow I was, then ask me questions as to how I always accomplished so much more than they did, and never had to do the job twice.
The grey hair should show wisdom from the years gone by.
welcome to geezerhood. where are the geezers when the universe started. they warmed it up alright. ancient of days need to show up and get some work done.
😂😂😂
My dad taught me about this when I was young. He said the simplest way to avoid this sort of thing being a problem, is start the chainsaw in your garage or shed, and then walk with it over to where you're going to work with it while it's at idle. By the time you get there, she'll be warm enough to go to town. Problem solved. Great video!
Right on
We are a small mom and pop lawnmower shop,
and can't tell how many of these we see as well !
We do sell, and highly recommend a product that significantly reduces the cold start friction issue.
But most of the people bringing us a chainsaw with this condition, is just about too late for their saw unfortunately !
By the time we would put the necessary labor into the required repair, you can usually be better off to just go buy another saw !
Really sad !
A few seconds of warm-up can keep your saws
( if they are a quality brand ) running for a lifetime if cared for properly !
Most important,
NEVER cut corners on a cheaper 2cycle oil !
Always,
Always,
Always, use a quality premium 2cycle oil !
And please folks,
this gentleman is 100% correct !
Warm up your equipment before putting them to work !
All equipment,
not just your chainsaws !
Excellent advice sir !
Excellent !
Thank you !
quadsman11 what do you use to help cold start friction?
@@MjrNiGhTmArE
It is called MT10 From a company called
Muscle Grease,
I would be happy to send you a small sample of, it doesn't take much for it to work.
@@MjrNiGhTmArE
Let me know, and I will get some on the way to you.
quadsman11 That sounds great! I have a brand new chainsaw that I just started using to prep for this coming winters firewood needs, so it’s going to be getting quite a work out.
How do I contact you?
@@MjrNiGhTmArE
Well,
First off,
This product works extremely well,
So much so, that they don't want you to use it in any brand new engine, otherwise, it will not wear in correctly.
I would recommend that you put about 5-6 hrs. on it before you use it.
That means,
You just need to let it warm up for a few minutes before you start using it hard.
I am an avid snowmobiler... I always new this about the sleds being so cold when you first start them. But I never thought about cold seized chain saws. I now will let my saw run for a bit . Thanks for more education
You're Welcome...
I don't use my chainsaw that often, but when I do it usually takes me a couple minutes to get to cutting. I have MS and can't just jump to work. I move like I'm 80 years old. My chainsaw is hard to start so it has time to warm up while I recover from pulling the rope. But you give good advice! Thanks a lot!
Thank you Steve I know I don't let my saw warm up like I should. But I will now.
You're Welcome...
Same here....surprising I haven't messed one up after all these years.
Same here.
Very good advice keep beers ice cold but chainsaws hot
Dude. Every video you make saves me money.
Awesome!
Amen to that!
I never knew that was an issue for chainsaws, it explains a lot. Thanks man, enjoy your beer.
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Never thought about that being an issue, haven't had an issue yet but I'm definitely going to make sure I never do, thank you!
You're Welcome...
I'll p if koo koo koo koo koo koo
Great explanation. I'm a mechanical engineer and wish some of my instructors had been this clear and to the point. Subscribed.
Right on Davey...
We cannot make completely round holes. The pistons have flaws as do the bearing journals. When you first run any engine it needs to wear off those high spots. Idling and low stress running will knock those off. Hard usage will cause a seizure like he showed. Very typical. Just fire it up and go at it during the very first tank of gas. The tight spots just tear themselves up instead of slowly wearing down.
Great video. This is a problem with 2-stroke race bikes also. We let them warm up till the radiator cap is hot before we rev the hell out of them. Reboring and replating a cylinder plus the cost of a new piston/rings usually teaches us not to do this. Thanks for putting this great information out there.
Back in the early 70's when my dirt and street bikes were 2 strokes I never moved until I felt warmth on the cylinder fins.
You have a radiator on a 2 stroke?
You're Welcome...
Gord Baker, yup, a lot of dirt bikes have 2 radiators. They are water cooled now days.
@@gordbaker896 my 1975 gt750 Suzuki was a 3 cylinder 2 stroke water cool. It was called a "water buffalo" by afficiandos.
I guess I am old school. I was born on the 60's where cars had manual chokes and you had to let the engine warm up before using it. Oh well old habits never die. Thanks for the video though. It confirms what I have been doing when starting these engines over the years. I will make sure and pass it on to to my friends. By the way. I love your beer and liquor rack in the back ground. Beautiful decor.
I was born in the 80s and I grew up on pulling chokes and warming up things
It makes sense to warm anything up before using it. Cars, saws, women
@@yommmrr lol
60-70's you had to let it idle and warm up FOR REASONS NOT because of this.... cough shit carbs that couldnt run a engine cold until the very later years of the 80s ... really ?
I fixed my two chain saws and a echo weed wacker watching these videos. My chain saw I bought with house in 1990's its an echo cs4400 as my 1998 echo srm 2400 weed wacker. I use them every season. My saw chains are sharper and bar is cleaner, my saws are better stored , better winterized. I learned more here on Steve's channel than anywhere is. I rebuild things now. I fix my neighbors small engines and saws now, as a way of giving back. Thank you Steve. Cheers to you from Oregon.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
I'm ALWAYS looking for wisdom that saves me money. Thanks Steve.
You`re Welcome...
Excellent advice on a number of chainsaw damage issues I never knew about... thanks!
You're Welcome...
I was bad for doing this when I was younger, an old timer saw me do it, and needless to say after a 90 min lecture. I don't do it anymore. I used to be running out of the gate, as soon as we got to the landing, I'd start something up, and go. That lasted all of one day when I started for him. Good info.
I've always let all my saws warm up for a while then just coax some throttle to it. I know way to many cold seizure candidate guys, they're usually the same guys burning through wood at full throttle usually after running the bar into the ground.
One of my most reliable is my old Homelite XL12, it just never ever fails. The key is not to let donkey's operate your stuff.
Yep...
I used to allow others to borrow only tools made out of one piece of solid metal; hammers, wrenches, etc.
Once I realized that they could destroy those just as well, I stopped doing even that. I could have something for 20 years, loan it out for the first time, and it come back ruined!
Now, if I can't use the tool FOR them, they're out of luck...
Neighbors seemed to be reasonable and careful, talk a great story. Takes a couple months to get blower/mulcher back, I bought a new one as my yard has a few dozen oaks. It came back well broken, wouldn't run for more than15 seconds, I had only had it 12 years working beautifully.
Now the neighbors get mad because I won't loan any tools out. They have nerve to ask me to loan them my new Honda snow thrower or my spare generator.
@@bff1316: DON'T DO IT! : )
BFF what assholes
Donkeys... It,s ok to call um Jackasses.
I've slow-warmed ALL my engines and get long lives from them, along with never so running dirty oil. I was an Engineman/Machinery Tech in the US Coast Guard; learned a lot!
Right on Gary!
This is good to know! I’m a carpenter based out of Pensacola, Fl. and we use chainsaws to top pilings and most use them exactly how you mentioned! I try to take better care of my tools but I didn’t know this was that horrible for the saw.
Any engine.
Had a "PowerEquipment" company tell me that a saw I had bought from them a couple years previously needed some major engine work, and it wouldn't be worth fixing... recommended buying a new saw. Took it to a rural saw shop and they fixed it for like $20. A rubber boot had slipped off somewhere which had made it run horribly. Can't always trust the same shop to repair a machine bought there.
Awesome as always, thanks Steve. I was taught to warm up my chainsaw motor by a great friend who taught me to warm up a boat motor.
Good stuff
I noticed the slow ways my Dad done things when I was a young boy 48 45 years ago, he always let the car warm up and never raced the engine up cold , even kept oil in the house in cold weather before he changed oil , he always started the Dozer he ran at work and warmed it up , I didn't understand then why he was so slow moving and sometimes strange to me.
I am now the same man at 58 that he was back then, good ol fashion life lessons are priceless .
I'm pretty new to operating a chainsaw and out of all the videos on RUclips your videos are not only very helpful but easy to understand. thank you for your vids man.
Thank You...and You're Welcome...
I was always taught to start the saw, lay it off to the side and let it idle while setting up all the rest of the tools for cutting. This explains it.
Right on
What is the proper warm up time?
Thank you so much, you saved me tons of money plus brought lots of knowledge to a newbie like myself. Firstly I'd like to say that I'd just bought a STIHL 18" chainsaw, brand-new! I am watching almost every video out there before I start using it and I appreciate all the information that you provided.
You're Welcome...
Mines just came the other day a parker 58cc with 20" bar, still a bit apprehensive about using it tbh as its some bit of kit. Chainsaw gloves will be next on the list i think.
Get the required safety equipment, an experienced operator to teach you or find a safety class. You're about to operate one of the most dangerous tools available. Read the owners manual, congrats on the new saw!
@@heavysnow8616 Soooo true !!! I don't believe my eyes when I see people operating a chain saw with sneakers and shorts and a t-shirt, no eye or head protection !!! They even should NOT sell chainsaws over the counter without a little course of 2-3 hours....
I’ve been doing it right all along and I thought I was just being fanatical. I warm up all my power equipment before I use it. Another great video Steve. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
good advice,and I would like to add something to this if you dont mind.Some folks do warm up their saws,but I bet very few think about letting the saw cool down before shutting it off.A saw cutting in hard wood with a dull chain (which should be a no-no)can get very hot,and the cooling fan/flywheel cant really move enough air to keep it cool.Let a hot saw sit and idle and disperse some of that heat before shutting down,will save you a lot of unnecessary wear on the jug.As always,great videos Steve.
Yup, cool down just as important.... and with cars.... if you have a turbo and just got through hammering it before pulling in your drive way. Let that car idle 5 till 10 minutes till cool that turbo you just got blazing hot so it doesn't coke the oil in the turbo and blow the turbo up.
@@timm.6391 I remember my brother in law pulling into my driveway a couple times a year in his Kenworth.He would let that truck sit and idle for over an hour.I think diesel was 79 cents a gallon back then.Today you can watch trucks pull right off the interstate into a rest area and immediately shut the engine down.
@@pallmall5495 I've seen that before when I was heading to Colorado. People don't think they have the time for it, but it's faster to do something right rather than do it wrong and have to wait forever to get it fixed.
I just came across your videos and I love em! This is going to save me a world of grief when it comes to my chainsaws and weedeaters. Thanks!
You're Welcome...
My Grandpaw taught me this when I was somewhere around 14. That would be,,,,mmmm, 1965, ( I think). Even though I retired my 041, it still ran fine after 34 years. Thanks Steve, you brought back a very fond memory.
You're Welcome...
great video! Yes, I have fired up my chainsaw and start cutting immediately! Thank you for the warning! I will warmup my engine from now on.
Glad to help
Good video! Thanks for the info.
I started to heat strictly with wood 2 years ago and I've been on a major learning curve.
The other day I blew up my MS 391 and I’m pretty sure this is why. Thanks Steve and Happy Birthday!
Thanks for this important information; I had no idea and I've been using chainsaws for 41 years !!! I will certainly warm up my saws in the future. Thanks again Steve.
Best of luck!
I always warm up everything I run. Never heard of this but do now. Surprised this hasn't happened to my father in law yet!! Thanks for all you do! Cheers 🍻
You're so welcome!
Thumbs up man. I watched this video some months ago when I only owned a battery chainsaw. Now I have 2 gas ones and I have been warming them up properly from day 1.
Right on
Wow!! Makes perfect sense as I hear you explain it. The piston has far less mass therefore heating up much faster.
Great video !! You are the man Steve! 👍👍👍
Thank You...
The dreaded 4 corner cold seizure!
Grolsh beer is one of the best beers around. You're a pretty cool dude Steve. 😎
Very clear explanation. I have seen this happen on snowmobiles. People are in too big of hurry. Warm them up! Engines are engineered to run at "operation temp".
Agreed!
I've always, just start up and GO since it's two cycle it doesn't need to warm up vs four cycle. Thank you Stevie for the great reveal on damage's that occurs when not warming up. Raising my bottle of Grolisch... Cheers!
Fantastic!
This is a little bit unrelated but something to look out for before you junk a Stihl with bad compression reading. We were taking BR600 and KM 94 to a repair shop. A bunch came back as NFG. My company owner investigated more and discovered the crankshaft seals are a common failure. Replacing those fixes low compression readings.
Firemen too. This is the case. I’ve had some talks with some guys about doing a proper warm up. Good stuff Steve!
Cool, thanks!
Your information is priceless......my father, a mechanic taught me about warming up a chainsaw long ago so your video showed the bad spot on the piston he talked about....keep the good stuff ...beverages included flowing
Wow, thanks
What you're suggesting makes good sense: warming up (idling) a saw for a minute before using it. I've never seen an arborist or professional tree feller do this. Usually, right after starting a saw, they rev it up several times (Vrrooom, vrooom, vroom) before they start cutting. 'Guess idling after starting a blower would make sense, too. Thanks for the heads-up!
With arborists, time's $ & most of 'em won't/don't work on their stuff except maybe chain sharpening. Buddy of mine took on maintaining an arborist's equipment. This was in addition to his regular job. They ran him ragged! He showed me an 066 Stihl he'd rebuilt, a week later showed me the same saw where it was crushed! Then he was accused of stealing from 'em. I later was asked by the same people to work on their stuff, I said no way! When asked why, I related my friend's tale. They had a foreman that was like a bull in a china shop & the $ wasn't coming out of his pocket.
This is for a cold start. If the saw is already warmed up, you can start it again and cut right away.
imo, the Vrrooom, vrooom, vroom does nothing except waste fuel, and cause unnecessary wear to the engine, & throttle trigger, lol. It is a very satisfying sound must admit that. Also makes the professionals at least SOUND as if they are really going to work on the customers tree, which said customer is paying hundreds of dollars to have taken down. Even vintage piston aircraft, never heard them feathering the throttle, they ran the engines up gradually. Chainsaws aren't aircraft I admit, with that said beyond idling warm up; no need to run up and preflight your chainsaw to maximum power before engaging with the wood. Chainsaw isn't going to crash on takeoff.
@@markbaker1843 You want to do just enough to know that it's oiling correctly.
My Dad told me always let the saw warm up.
He just said it would ruin the engine if you didn't.
Thanks for explaining it further.
You're Welcome...
Oh yes.. the classic start and ruin lol Rule 1: Never lend a chainsaw lol
Or enything with an engine really..
Spot on, 🤙
No chit mine came back full of dirt, glass , and off the bar plus the plastic inside bye the sprocket was chewed up probably from untangling twigs?
Nobody, but NOBODY ever gets to borrow my tools. They've got a habit of coming back broken, or not at all.
Certainly wasn't what I was expecting, actually learned something, Thanks
You're Welcome...
New chainsaw guy here. Thank you for educating me.
You're Welcome...
I always start my saw by the garage, so by the time I get to where I'm working at the time it's warmed up. Never really thought about the warm-up, now I will. Thanks...
Right on
2:28 AM and I just came in from the garage/shop, and first thing I do, is watch a tinkering video. LMAO!!
I've been wanting to drink a beer with you. Was a pleasure!!
Thanks for the knowledge, my friend!
You're Welcome...
Thank you, this is a great explanation and very helpful. (BTW....my dad always told me, if you handle power tools and firearms, never mix it with alcohol or weed...wait until your done, then enjoy your drink or your joint.)
I've been running saws for 30 years and learned something about them today. Thanks Steve.
Glad to help
Same here , good to know . I always had the feeling they needed warm up so I did but diddnt know it was so important. How long of a warm up?
Well wait, if you've been running saws for 30 years without knowing this, have you been seizing up saws from "cold starting" em? Or has it not been a problem?
@@JonALewis I've always warmed my saws up before use just like any other engine. I did not know exactly how high rpms affect a cold saw engine.
@@JonALewis Been running saws for 50 years also two stroke motocross bikes never had this problem and I'm afraid I'm guilty of sometimes firing them up and getting on with the job. Im not for a minute discrediting what Steve is saying and it makes sence but cheap oil, wrong mixture, but revving the motor out when its running out of fuel imo is something I've never done as I was told they would be running lean. I have time now to let my kit warm up I will take this on board every little helps.
I do believe you are the SMARTEST Small Engine Tech I've EVER seen...keep on posting your WONDERFUL Videos...
Thank You...
Sorry didn’t mean to hit the thumbs down button
Your videos are much appreciated. Just purchased my first chainsaw last year and any time I have a question I look to your channel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Glad to help
Great video with some great advice. You are now my go-to person when I'm having any chainsaw issues.
Glad to hear it!
great vid, never heard of cold seizure. knowledge is money. after the motor warms up, I run it before I go into the tree and let the chain stretch so that I can adjust this slack on the ground. better than effen around with the saw in the tree
Hey Steve. You just opened my eyes to the demise of my 3-year-old MS 250. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
I must be doing things right. my 10 year old MS260 still runs like a champ. heck, the 40 year old weed eater I "inherited" from my dad finally died from no longer being able to get replacement plastics last year... I gave it back so he could use the gearbox to replace the damaged gearbox form the one he replaced it with.
Own the homeowner version of your saw, MS251. Always been difficult to start, but wanted to comment that with mine, you simply HAVE to allow the saw idle to warm up a bit as it simply will not throttle up until it gets ready to. Stihl BG 56c, think it is, anyway blower is a lot the same way, has to run 2-3 minutes before it'll hit maximum speed and really start humming.
I gave you a thumbs up, well explained and demonstrated. My dad was an aircraft engineer and taught me lots but it’s still good to see videos like yours spreading the gospel, thanks
Cool, thanks
My Dad was a landscaper for over 30 years and used to tell me the same thing! You are a Boss and know your stuff (I've watched a number of your videos), and you have great taste in Beer! :)
Right on Robby! Thank You...
if you say so.. im a landscaper as well 17 years now, im still using the 2 stroke equipment ive had since i bought them over a decade ago never an issue running full throttle after startup...
I let all engines warm up good especially my turbo VW, gotta get that oil warm and flowing good. Another good tip, let your engines idle for a minute or two when you are done using it, helps the engine cool down before shutting down.
vw engines are shit!!!
All turbos should be warmed up
no need for a cool down
@@alanharding8762 yeah I keep wondering how much longer my Jetta with 400,000 miles will last.
@@alanharding8762 Hey, my passat turbo-diesel is dead reliable, nearly as efficient as a prius, and can tow more than most cars in it's class. Put alot of time bombing down logging roads, and she's holding together great
Great advice. I plan to take it to heart. I hate it when I have a machine that won’t work.
Must be from Minn-e-So-ta!
yes I start my saw, always 1 minute before I cut anything. so that was the proper way to do it!
I was always concerned about idling too much, fowling the muffler or plug. have a great day!
Awesome video - but - how long in general should you allow for warmup to avoid this?
A minute or two. Then shut it off and let it heat soak for a minute, and you're good to go
Steve, so often what you say is just plain common sense, seems folks should get it. But you bring a lot of well earned respect and knowledge to put some icing on that common sense cake. I watch all your videos and I love 'em,,,,, even though I quit drinking beer about 5 weed wackers ago.
Thank You...
Now I UNDERSTAND WHAT to do to my
Chainsaw THANKS FOR THE lesson
Steve
You're Welcome...
I will defiantly allow my chain saw warm up before i use. Great video, thankyou for sharing. 👌🏻👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻 cheers from 🇭🇲
@tree man i hear you. I never use ethanol blended fuel for any of our vehicles or equipment.👍🏻.
You're Welcome...
Steve love your videos. Crystal clear instructions covering all the key issues. I set all my gear up using your guidance. Great job man from Mike in the UK. 👍
Thank You...Right on Mikey...
Fired up my saw shortly after watching this, for the first time ever I let it set and idle for a couple minutes. Thanks Steve
No different than how some treat their vehicles . Well put out there. You need to set up your own micro brewery.Steve's
Piston Broke Beer.
LOL, Right on...
Unless it's a carbureted vehicle, you really don't need them to warm up.
@@WJCTechyman that statement is not exactly correct. While the carbureted engine benefits from the warm-up so do fuel injected models. It's better to give it a few minutes, and let the engine warm so that the engine oil pressure can get up so that it can start lubricating the top end and even main bearing will benefit. I'm also pretty sure that Steve's example of the Piston expanding faster then the rest of the engine is also true with a large engine although I don't know that it would have as much impact on a larger engine than a smaller hotter 2 stroke.
@@WJCTechyman Fuel delivery methods have nothing to do with core thermal expansion. The only reason you needed to warm up carbureted engines more is because of the carb itself (cold fuel is less-volatile than hot fuel). Pistons still heat faster than the block does, and while an automotive engine is unlikely to have this issue, you still don't just start rolling before the starter has spun down because cold starts are where you have the most wear. Cold engine parts are not the same shape as hot engine parts, so you want to avoid high loads and high speeds on any cold engine, regardless of type.
Exactly what I was about to say! General rule for internal combustion engines, let them warm up!
Steve thanks for the heads up on cold start damage. Rebuilt my first personal husky 372 with low compression and when I tor it down had the exact damage in the exact same place as you showed in your video. I thought it was just a lot of use at the time, but know I know it was my no warm up that caused that damage. Thanks for the eye opener it wont happen again!
Glad to help
You couldn'tbe more right. "Lets go! Time is money", shouted every framing contractor ever. Some actually understand that tools are money too, time spent messing around with broken tools is money, time spent going to purchase new tools is money, gas is money. Very few the patience to find that sweet spot.
Right on
I have now watched four of your videos, and each one has saved me time, money, and effort. I'd buy you a beer if I could.
Third video of yours that I've run into. Although i've been messing with small engines since i was a young boy, i find your videos to be FULL of great information!! Youve earned a sub, sir. Keep wrenching.
Thank You...
I'm so glad I found this , own 3 chainsaws , only 1 working ( after putting it in the shop ). This lesson will go for everything with a motor far as I'm concerned . Thanks !
Right on
Being from the upper midwest and always cutting wood in freezing temperatures, I learned quickly that warming up your engines are a necessity. Cold saws were noticeably underpowered until they warmed up. I didn't know the why or what the damage it could do until now, so Thanks Steve for explaining why! Also, I drank a LOT of Grolsch Pilsner when I worked in Netherlands! Good job on getting the bottled as the canned ruins the flavor. I really like their Herfstbok!
Right on
Im from Michigan Upper Pennisula. We always had our wood cut, split and stacked way before it got that cold.
Never let a beer warm up before you drink it! You want a cold start there my man! Once you drink it, you can forget using the chainsaw. The wear and tear factor on the saw goes way down. Problem solved, less work, more beer!
Lmao ! but no work no Beer ..
Now this is a man that has his priorities right!
Damn straight
Yep, beer made me chainsaw all the walls in MY house...[steel studs]. haha,
I never let my drinking interfere with my work, and never let my work interfere with my drinking.
I have an old husqvarna 162 with no compression
Sure enough, piston ring seized and scored the hell out of the piston. Right in that spot you showed in this vid
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
You're Welcome...
Love the videos, Steve. I have always been the go to guy for small engines on up and I still learn new stuff every day. I use you tube all the time to get tips ad tricks when fixing and troubleshooting. I am a life long mechanical and electronic technician. I retired as a senior industrial maintenance technician. I have thought about starting a channel to teach others some of what I know from 45+ years of fixing stuff. Is it worth all the investments and time? Keep up the good work
Your individual life experience is always valuable to others. Maybe your videos can be passed on to your grandkids and beyond, you get to last forever. Use it or lose it. All the best
Great Video Steve, I am probably guilty of this from time to time myself. Thanks for the effort you put out in order to educate people.
Glad to help
Great video - 4:11 for the thing you shouldn't do - (don't rev the engine fully open and start cutting before the engine warms up)
Wow! Never heard of that. Great tip. Makes total sense.
Thank You...
Thank You Steve! For some 40+ years I would sharpen the chains on the saws, fuel them up, fill the bar oil, get my PPE on and then start the saw up to get it warm before I would walk to the work site so that they would start easy once there and ready to cut. I did not have a clue about cold starting / seizing up until I saw this video! I guess I was just lucky that the short warm up run to ensure it would start easy later when I got to the wood served to warm up the piston which in turn warmed up the cylinder so they both could expand a bit. Sometimes you just get lucky. In the future, the warm up will be a bit longer and have new meaning, especially in the winter. Thank again for the cost saving tip 👍.
You're Welcome...
Man, I'm glad you told us that! That's probably why my Homolite quit running and now sucks! I'll have to check it out. Thanks.
You're Welcome...
I'll say it AGAIN Steve, you just may be the (mechanically) smartest Canadian I know! (even smarter than my old boss!) I may be a bit of a wizz kid with a keen intuition when it comes to 99% of things mechanical and have a solid "hunch" why things just aren't working right, but leave it to YOUR VIDEOS to confirm my intuitions! And what makes it even better is you SHARE that knowledge! BRAVO SIR! Seriously, you want to let ANY engine idle for at least a good 60 seconds minimum before you hit the throttle to let the oil circulate and lube everything internally, and it's not really a good idea to go full wide open throttle even for about 2-3 minutes.
Thank You...
Crazy that people don’t know this. Applies to all engines especially 2 strokes
Shell Cracker Yes, but some people take idling to an extreme and that isn't best for engines either. Especially vehicles when it's very cold out. Most engine wear happens before the engine reaches ideal operation temperature. Driving a vehicle while taking it easy (not peddle to the floor) will warm up much faster than idling, thus reducing unnecessary engine wear.
@@Tyler-zw4kq I would use a block heater if it was still cold (no heat in the cab) after 15 minutes. I have lived in -40 degrees climates and it does take forever to warm up an engine at idle. That is precisely why I would drive after a couple minutes. 5-7 minutes of driving and the heater is starting to blow warm air.
Because in the name of lower emissions they've been telling people not to warm up their engines.
@@gordthor5351 Yes, some do idle for extreme. There's a guy in my apartment complex warms up his car for 5 minutes every time, he's got a loud exhaust so it wakes me up in the morning. During the winter time (Phoenix, so winter is like 50 degrees) he warms it up closer to 10 minutes.
@Gord Thor Agreed on people taking vehicle warm ups too far. Generally, if you wait for the RPM to drop to normal idle speed or 30 seconds (whichever is first), you've let it go long enough. The exception is if you're scraping ice or fogging up the windshield. Then you let it idle while defrost does its job.