I'm glad i found this channel. Just inherited my dads 67 fastback 289. Engine fired up after sitting for 25 years. Needs some TLC but i think it'll be drivable by the end of the year.
Thanks. Love to get some feedback. I have a 66 coupe mustang,straight 6. Thinkin bout retroin an 86 roller 302 to drop in some day. Where to start. Haha. Maybe ill send pics someday. Peace
Great Build. I agree on the "healthy stealthy" style and the dark corporate blue is so good. the only other way is 65 in gloss black with Hipo covers and air cleaner or color coded VC & Air cleaner. look forward to seeing more and now I need to go work on my own coupe!
Great advice.. I have a Torino I’ve been working on for ever. Over thinking everything has killed my build. Having someone with your knowledge would be super helpful.
Hats off to you for being a mentor .. hats off for tge young man for listening n doing what he is told .. i mentor young ppl sometimes but they almost never listen .. lol
I teach automotive engine performance diagnostics and emissions to 17-27 year olds for a living. I enjoy being involved in projects like this because it’s fun for me and rewarding for the young guys building their first real project. I’m lucky to have the ability to connect with that age group and get them inspired to go on to do a good job, wether they are my students at work or I’m mentoring on the side.
@ Ive done it since 1988 because its fun .. I’ve turned down friends invitations to cookouts on the houseboat on the lake , off roading trips to the mountains , trips to my local dragstrip and dirt track you name it , I’ve had a few first dates at the garage building an old truck or car . Ive lost a few girlfriends because all i wanted to do is work on old cars .. I’ve ran a few girlfriends of because all they wanted me to do was work on their junky modern car and that took time away from the old cars .. lol i may not be the best at it but i sure enjoy it .. i enjoy learning more n more too thats why i watch your videos .. i know alot but i don’t know it all and i am teachable and like learning new things … lol
@@glennramsey917 I started in 1988 in my early teens. My high school shut down our auto shop program between my freshman and sophomore year (had to be at least a sophomore to take the class as an elective). So I buried my nose in books and shop manuals and spent as much time working in the shop as I could to learn the skills I wanted. 36 years later, I know a lot, but certainly not everything, and I also continue to learn and evolve my skill set, I share as much knowledge as I can and try to keep it current for my students and concise for anyone I mentor.
@ you and I are about the same age … i learned out of necessity … i grew up dirt poor and if i didn’t fix it i had to stay home . That means i had to walk yo get to a neighboring farm to see if they EVEN HAD any work i could do .. if i didn’t make any money i didn’t eat so i figured stuff out on my own .. ffwd to now .. i have almost everything i ever need and don’t have to leave home for anything . I have a garage a lift a tire changing machine and 35 years worth of hording up all different sorts of tools … its sown to the point where idk what to buy myself for Christmas .. lol . Im currently going thru a 351w drag motor for a friend and when it warms up ill be putting a performance 460 in my 77 f100 … life has been hard but im enjoying it now .
I wouldn't have thought it but this car looks good without a neat paint job and all the frills. Kinda bad ass. My rebuild (65 convertible) included Apax (sorry, Spax) shocks and well over a grand (english £'s I'm in london) with fitting. I would add that the worse thing on my rebuild was buying chrome sh*t from the internet to save cash. Nearly all parts, alterenators, fuel pumps, gauges were bad or needed some work to get them to fit or failed altogether. My tuppence: Always buy from a reputable dealer and name. The other route is just false economy both financial and in terms of labour. If I bought direct from a racing shop I could've shaved a year off my build. Great channel! Helped me put my heater in, thanks sirs.
Great video. I am building a 66 Coupe, T5z, 289 similar to your specs, 3.55 8” eaton trutrac with later third member case, stock 4 piston front brakes and stock rear drums, ranger aluminum dual master, opentracker leafs with delrin bushings, roller spring perches, global west upper and lower control arms, and opentracker delrin bushing strut rods. I bought the car as a project - off the road 20ish years. Hope to have it on the road in 25. I like the painted engine look. I will likely go the same but with cobra valve covers. I will have quieter exhaust - lol.
It’s an X-pipe into auger style circle track mufflers. It’s WAY too loud for street use. The headers are 1-5/8” Fox Body spec shorty headers, and he had an exhaust shop bend some 2-1/4” pipe to connect them to the X-pipe which had previously been used with Thorley Tri-Y headers. If you want a similar sound without the associated hearing loss, I would suggest JBA or Thorley Tri-Y headers as they are the nicest options available. You can get a matching JBA X-Pipe and Shelby style side exit exhaust from JBA and have a full bolt on experience. If you go the Thorley route, you’ll need to build the system, and I’d use a Magnaflow X-pipe with Magnaflow glass packed mufflers. A more traditional sound would be an H-Pipe with Dynomax Race Magnum Bullet mufflers.
Switch to full length headers (equal length primaries) and you'll be maximum exhaust performance. If you want to drool look up the cobra automotive race headers.😍🤤
Years ago, we tested shorty headers vs long tubes. We had a wildly interesting result. The restriction in the shorties is the collector. We opened them up to a 3” 3-bolt collector in place of the ball and made 930hp with 1-5/8” Shorties on a 392 with a Victor EFI top end and a T-trim. Same headers supported a later N/A iteration to 580hp and the 1-3/4 long tubes that replaced them made 590. Torque wasn’t much different for either N/A. This car has the AJE Colt65 front end and thus uses a Fox Body oil pan and shorty headers. These were concessions we had to make for packaging and time constraints to make Hot Rod Power Tour West 2023. In time, the car may end up with a long tube, but likely not, it’s just too good and too simple to complicate.
No, the ball collectors are often a 2-1/4” opening, good designs are 2-1/2”. And the collectors are so short, the tubes dump the exhaust against the ball of the collector. A proper 4-1 collector, even a very short version, with a 3” opening stops reversion and increases the scavenging ability of the header quite a bit.
Nice build. I could listen to this motor all day. Those 289 SBF are legendary for good reason. Do you happen to know the back spacing he used for his wheels? I'm currently looking to buy a set for my '66 coupe. Thanks.
I’m going to finish building the 289 for my Shelby and then I’ll consider “customer builds”. I always start the discussion the same way when someone asks: What’s your budget? What’s your power goal? What’s your time frame? Inevitably people don’t like the answers because they aren’t familiar with the performance triangle. The performance triangle is simple, you can have it good, cheap, or fast; PICK TWO. It weeds out people who have unrealistic goals and the ones who don’t want to listen. But Id certainly build engines for interested parties.
I never paint my water pump or timing cover, in the 80's I keep my boss 302 as stock looking as I could, some guys would scratch there heads. I learned back then , it is bad when Cops say "1st I heard you, then I pulled you over" or "where's the Fire?" lol
Solid flat tappet lifters, just like a 289 HiPo. I went for a clean, simple, effective engine package for Ian. Yes, he needs to check the lash occasionally, but that’s easy enough. After 2000 miles or so he can check it on the same schedule as oil changes, once a year in spring, or every oil change. It’s a precautionary guideline, but it ensures trouble free operation.
This was a great video. Hope to see more from this car in the future. I find it’s a relief seeing someone on the internet not using the ridiculous spring pressures some of these camshafts call for.
The 8.206” deck height had a tolerance that allowed up to 8.211” so your piston is down in the hole .016-.021” for most 289s and 302s up to 1972. 1972-76 the deck height was increased to 8.229” and there are some blocks up to 8.234”. Ford used the increased deck height to add chamber volume and reduce compression, putting the pistons. .039-.044” in the hole. During the 5.0L HO era, ford increased the piston CD to 1.610” on the flat top HO spec pistons to bring compression up without having to change the combustion chamber volume. The L2488F TRW/Speed Pro forged pistons are the OE HO spec pistons and also fit a 289 as an upgrade. I deck the blocks to 8.190” to put the piston at “zero deck” on my builds and run a .039”-.042” head gasket to maintain good quench and the correct piston to cylinder head clearance.
It’s an AJE Colt65. I don’t know that I’d recommend it, it’s been a pain. I have far more adjustability with my gently modified stock suspension. The only reason to go with it is if the towers are collapsing, severely cracked, or pretty rusty. And even then, there are still better options around the same price point.
If you aren’t putting a wider engine in the bay than a 351W on a 65-66, you can really make a stock style suspension work well. If you’re building a Pro-Touring level car, there are drastically better options that won’t break the bank.
@@TheGT350Garagewhat would you recommend as far for front suspension if I wanted to delete my shock towers to stick a coyote in it? I have a 68 roller similar to what he bought except I ended up buying two different 68 mustangs the same day one I got running the same week after it sat since 1997 I wanna say and I have since changed it quite a bit it now has a 302 roller out of a fox but carbureted with a T5.
Do not put your hand on the inside of the steering wheel. In the event of an accident, the wheel could spin around and break your wrist or arm. In a similar vein, do not wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel, for the same reason. Hands on the outside and thumbs just resting on the face of the wheel. Maybe mention this to Ian. If you take a defensive driving course, these will some of the first things they will mention after watching you drive. Walter, are those the 1966 heads? Which beehive springs did you get? I was looking for beehive springs for my 1966 heads. Factory spring installed height is 1.64", so PAC recomended a dual spring package. Summit supplied retainers to use with the 8mm LS valves. I agree with your discussion on getting advice all over. The other point on a project is to do research up front, formulate a plan, and then stick to the plan that has been well thought out. Too many guys have done some work on the car and then seen something on TV, at a show, or in a magazine. Then it is going to cost a bunch more to change it.
I actually don’t recommend getting advice from all over because unless you have an excellent BS filter, or you already have fairly in depth knowledge, you’re going to get conflicting advice. Find someone trustworthy and rely on them exclusively, pay them if you need to, compensate them for the time they are spending with you to help you succeed. Experiential knowledge is priceless, so don’t take it for granted. Those are not ‘66 heads, they are Edelbrock E-Street heads. If you’d like a detailed list of how to set up your ‘66 heads, shoot me an email including the valve sizes you’re running, which castings you have (slotted or round pushrod holes) and if you’re running pressed in studs or they are converted to screw in studs, along with any other modifications you may have made to them. You can sent the email to: thegt350garage@gmail.com
Ian lives in Southern California, and I live in Layton Utah, I built the engine. Las Vegas is 6.5 hours from me, not a bad drive. If you need an engine built, shoot me an email. The address is thegt350garage@gmail.com
It has about 9.5:1 compression, the heads are aluminum and flow substantially better, the intake is better than the original Shelby dual plane hi-rise, and it has a better cam profile. It drives like a Shelby GT350 spec 289 HiPo on steroids.
Those are not stock 66 valve covers , 67 maybe, also roller rockers won't fit under stock 65-66 valve covers without spacers, fox body shortys won't fit 66 Mustangs, 67-70 will.
I’ve built a couple thousand small blocks and dyno’d several thousand cars. We’re right there. In time, this car will get on a dyno at Westech and the numbers will be there. 375hp at the tire through a T5 and 9” Ford rear is right around 315hp measured at the wheels. The car is every bit of either measure, 375 at the flywheel or 315 at the tire.
I'm glad i found this channel. Just inherited my dads 67 fastback 289. Engine fired up after sitting for 25 years. Needs some TLC but i think it'll be drivable by the end of the year.
Thanks. Love to get some feedback. I have a 66 coupe mustang,straight 6. Thinkin bout retroin an 86 roller 302 to drop in some day. Where to start. Haha. Maybe ill send pics someday. Peace
Reach out when it’s time you need some guidance.
Thanks again for the time, effort, and support. Had a blast shooting this. Can’t wait till we can do a drive with the Shelby and the coupe.
Love seeing young people getting into cars! Good on you Walter for being a good human being and mentor.
"Happiest guy on the road." Yes.
Great Build. I agree on the "healthy stealthy" style and the dark corporate blue is so good. the only other way is 65 in gloss black with Hipo covers and air cleaner or color coded VC & Air cleaner. look forward to seeing more and now I need to go work on my own coupe!
Sounds amazing!
Great advice.. I have a Torino I’ve been working on for ever. Over thinking everything has killed my build.
Having someone with your knowledge would be super helpful.
Shoot me an email: thegt350garage@gmail.com
Walter, great video and great mentering! Ian, great work and don't sell you first build as it will haunt you later in life, ask us how we know.
Hats off to you for being a mentor .. hats off for tge young man for listening n doing what he is told .. i mentor young ppl sometimes but they almost never listen .. lol
I teach automotive engine performance diagnostics and emissions to 17-27 year olds for a living. I enjoy being involved in projects like this because it’s fun for me and rewarding for the young guys building their first real project. I’m lucky to have the ability to connect with that age group and get them inspired to go on to do a good job, wether they are my students at work or I’m mentoring on the side.
@ Ive done it since 1988 because its fun .. I’ve turned down friends invitations to cookouts on the houseboat on the lake , off roading trips to the mountains , trips to my local dragstrip and dirt track you name it , I’ve had a few first dates at the garage building an old truck or car . Ive lost a few girlfriends because all i wanted to do is work on old cars .. I’ve ran a few girlfriends of because all they wanted me to do was work on their junky modern car and that took time away from the old cars .. lol i may not be the best at it but i sure enjoy it .. i enjoy learning more n more too thats why i watch your videos .. i know alot but i don’t know it all and i am teachable and like learning new things … lol
@@glennramsey917 I started in 1988 in my early teens. My high school shut down our auto shop program between my freshman and sophomore year (had to be at least a sophomore to take the class as an elective). So I buried my nose in books and shop manuals and spent as much time working in the shop as I could to learn the skills I wanted. 36 years later, I know a lot, but certainly not everything, and I also continue to learn and evolve my skill set, I share as much knowledge as I can and try to keep it current for my students and concise for anyone I mentor.
@ you and I are about the same age … i learned out of necessity … i grew up dirt poor and if i didn’t fix it i had to stay home . That means i had to walk yo get to a neighboring farm to see if they EVEN HAD any work i could do .. if i didn’t make any money i didn’t eat so i figured stuff out on my own .. ffwd to now .. i have almost everything i ever need and don’t have to leave home for anything . I have a garage a lift a tire changing machine and 35 years worth of hording up all different sorts of tools … its sown to the point where idk what to buy myself for Christmas .. lol . Im currently going thru a 351w drag motor for a friend and when it warms up ill be putting a performance 460 in my 77 f100 … life has been hard but im enjoying it now .
I wouldn't have thought it but this car looks good without a neat paint job and all the frills. Kinda bad ass. My rebuild (65 convertible) included Apax (sorry, Spax) shocks and well over a grand (english £'s I'm in london) with fitting. I would add that the worse thing on my rebuild was buying chrome sh*t from the internet to save cash. Nearly all parts, alterenators, fuel pumps, gauges were bad or needed some work to get them to fit or failed altogether. My tuppence: Always buy from a reputable dealer and name. The other route is just false economy both financial and in terms of labour. If I bought direct from a racing shop I could've shaved a year off my build.
Great channel! Helped me put my heater in, thanks sirs.
Great video. I am building a 66 Coupe, T5z, 289 similar to your specs, 3.55 8” eaton trutrac with later third member case, stock 4 piston front brakes and stock rear drums, ranger aluminum dual master, opentracker leafs with delrin bushings, roller spring perches, global west upper and lower control arms, and opentracker delrin bushing strut rods. I bought the car as a project - off the road 20ish years. Hope to have it on the road in 25. I like the painted engine look. I will likely go the same but with cobra valve covers. I will have quieter exhaust - lol.
Sounds pretty good
That's how I built my 390 in my 65' thunderbird motor.
Great video.
Sweet machine, any photos of the exhaust design and extractors as i also love the sound of it and Daves mustang from Autotopia, beast
It’s an X-pipe into auger style circle track mufflers. It’s WAY too loud for street use. The headers are 1-5/8” Fox Body spec shorty headers, and he had an exhaust shop bend some 2-1/4” pipe to connect them to the X-pipe which had previously been used with Thorley Tri-Y headers.
If you want a similar sound without the associated hearing loss, I would suggest JBA or Thorley Tri-Y headers as they are the nicest options available. You can get a matching JBA X-Pipe and Shelby style side exit exhaust from JBA and have a full bolt on experience. If you go the Thorley route, you’ll need to build the system, and I’d use a Magnaflow X-pipe with Magnaflow glass packed mufflers. A more traditional sound would be an H-Pipe with Dynomax Race Magnum Bullet mufflers.
Switch to full length headers (equal length primaries) and you'll be maximum exhaust performance. If you want to drool look up the cobra automotive race headers.😍🤤
Years ago, we tested shorty headers vs long tubes. We had a wildly interesting result. The restriction in the shorties is the collector. We opened them up to a 3” 3-bolt collector in place of the ball and made 930hp with 1-5/8” Shorties on a 392 with a Victor EFI top end and a T-trim. Same headers supported a later N/A iteration to 580hp and the 1-3/4 long tubes that replaced them made 590. Torque wasn’t much different for either N/A. This car has the AJE Colt65 front end and thus uses a Fox Body oil pan and shorty headers. These were concessions we had to make for packaging and time constraints to make Hot Rod Power Tour West 2023. In time, the car may end up with a long tube, but likely not, it’s just too good and too simple to complicate.
@@TheGT350Garage Isn't the collector on most shorties 3 inch already?
No, the ball collectors are often a 2-1/4” opening, good designs are 2-1/2”. And the collectors are so short, the tubes dump the exhaust against the ball of the collector. A proper 4-1 collector, even a very short version, with a 3” opening stops reversion and increases the scavenging ability of the header quite a bit.
@TheGT350Garage hmmm... I'll stick with my equal length hooker super comps with the extended collectors for torque.
Nice build. I could listen to this motor all day. Those 289 SBF are legendary for good reason. Do you happen to know the back spacing he used for his wheels? I'm currently looking to buy a set for my '66 coupe. Thanks.
The backspacing or offset will depend on your front suspension and rear axle. I need to know what you have to know what will fit your car.
Simply awesome. Thanks for sharing. Walter, are you planning on building more engines in future? I’m sure you’d have a few people lined up.
I’m going to finish building the 289 for my Shelby and then I’ll consider “customer builds”.
I always start the discussion the same way when someone asks:
What’s your budget?
What’s your power goal?
What’s your time frame?
Inevitably people don’t like the answers because they aren’t familiar with the performance triangle. The performance triangle is simple, you can have it good, cheap, or fast; PICK TWO. It weeds out people who have unrealistic goals and the ones who don’t want to listen. But Id certainly build engines for interested parties.
@@TheGT350Garagesounds like we need to have chat in the near future! I’d be interested in working with you on an engine build.
Really nice
Glad you liked it! Let me know if you have any questions about the build.
I never paint my water pump or timing cover, in the 80's I keep my boss 302 as stock looking as I could, some guys would scratch there heads. I learned back then , it is bad when Cops say "1st I heard you, then I pulled you over" or "where's the Fire?" lol
how great it is to have a god father car guru. keep getting those hands dirty. t
Did you use solid lifters? If so flat or roller? Sounds beautiful
Solid flat tappet lifters, just like a 289 HiPo. I went for a clean, simple, effective engine package for Ian. Yes, he needs to check the lash occasionally, but that’s easy enough. After 2000 miles or so he can check it on the same schedule as oil changes, once a year in spring, or every oil change. It’s a precautionary guideline, but it ensures trouble free operation.
Think this is the kid staying with Dave (blkors) mustang. ?
This was a great video. Hope to see more from this car in the future.
I find it’s a relief seeing someone on the internet not using the ridiculous spring pressures some of these camshafts call for.
Do ya know about how far a stock 289 piston is in the hole Walter?
The 8.206” deck height had a tolerance that allowed up to 8.211” so your piston is down in the hole .016-.021” for most 289s and 302s up to 1972. 1972-76 the deck height was increased to 8.229” and there are some blocks up to 8.234”. Ford used the increased deck height to add chamber volume and reduce compression, putting the pistons. .039-.044” in the hole. During the 5.0L HO era, ford increased the piston CD to 1.610” on the flat top HO spec pistons to bring compression up without having to change the combustion chamber volume. The L2488F TRW/Speed Pro forged pistons are the OE HO spec pistons and also fit a 289 as an upgrade. I deck the blocks to 8.190” to put the piston at “zero deck” on my builds and run a .039”-.042” head gasket to maintain good quench and the correct piston to cylinder head clearance.
@TheGT350Garage thank u
What front end did you say was under it?
It’s an AJE Colt65. I don’t know that I’d recommend it, it’s been a pain. I have far more adjustability with my gently modified stock suspension. The only reason to go with it is if the towers are collapsing, severely cracked, or pretty rusty. And even then, there are still better options around the same price point.
@TheGT350Garage thanks for replying. I don't know anything about that front-end setup, and it sounds like there is nothing i need to research.
If you aren’t putting a wider engine in the bay than a 351W on a 65-66, you can really make a stock style suspension work well. If you’re building a Pro-Touring level car, there are drastically better options that won’t break the bank.
@@TheGT350Garagewhat would you recommend as far for front suspension if I wanted to delete my shock towers to stick a coyote in it? I have a 68 roller similar to what he bought except I ended up buying two different 68 mustangs the same day one I got running the same week after it sat since 1997 I wanna say and I have since changed it quite a bit it now has a 302 roller out of a fox but carbureted with a T5.
Do not put your hand on the inside of the steering wheel. In the event of an accident, the wheel could spin around and break your wrist or arm.
In a similar vein, do not wrap your thumbs around the steering wheel, for the same reason. Hands on the outside and thumbs just resting on the face of the wheel.
Maybe mention this to Ian. If you take a defensive driving course, these will some of the first things they will mention after watching you drive.
Walter, are those the 1966 heads? Which beehive springs did you get? I was looking for beehive springs for my 1966 heads. Factory spring installed height is 1.64", so PAC recomended a dual spring package. Summit supplied retainers to use with the 8mm LS valves.
I agree with your discussion on getting advice all over. The other point on a project is to do research up front, formulate a plan, and then stick to the plan that has been well thought out. Too many guys have done some work on the car and then seen something on TV, at a show, or in a magazine. Then it is going to cost a bunch more to change it.
I actually don’t recommend getting advice from all over because unless you have an excellent BS filter, or you already have fairly in depth knowledge, you’re going to get conflicting advice. Find someone trustworthy and rely on them exclusively, pay them if you need to, compensate them for the time they are spending with you to help you succeed. Experiential knowledge is priceless, so don’t take it for granted.
Those are not ‘66 heads, they are Edelbrock E-Street heads. If you’d like a detailed list of how to set up your ‘66 heads, shoot me an email including the valve sizes you’re running, which castings you have (slotted or round pushrod holes) and if you’re running pressed in studs or they are converted to screw in studs, along with any other modifications you may have made to them. You can sent the email to: thegt350garage@gmail.com
2 questions... 1. Your in Las Vegas? 2. If in Vegas who built the engine?
Ian lives in Southern California, and I live in Layton Utah, I built the engine. Las Vegas is 6.5 hours from me, not a bad drive. If you need an engine built, shoot me an email. The address is thegt350garage@gmail.com
No no no, don't primer it, it looks perfect how it is. It actually reminds me a lot of my car.
How would this compare to a 65 or 66 hi po.
It has about 9.5:1 compression, the heads are aluminum and flow substantially better, the intake is better than the original Shelby dual plane hi-rise, and it has a better cam profile. It drives like a Shelby GT350 spec 289 HiPo on steroids.
Did you video this engine build.
Only part of it. That’s why I never posted it.
Weve all went for the unnecessary shiny stuff being young
Those are not stock 66 valve covers , 67 maybe, also roller rockers won't fit under stock 65-66 valve covers without spacers, fox body shortys won't fit 66 Mustangs, 67-70 will.
Those ARE ‘66 covers. Mid-year ‘66 was the changeover.
@@classicstangbrn8964 it’s got aje suspension. Those are shortys, they do fit with the suspensions modified shock tower.
@iansharpe8185 , ok I did not see that in the video.
@TheGT350Garage , I have a mid to late year 66 and it didn't have those valve covers, but who really cares like the powered by Ford covers anyway.
I don’t believe 375hp. Want to see the dyno at the wheels.
I’ve built a couple thousand small blocks and dyno’d several thousand cars. We’re right there. In time, this car will get on a dyno at Westech and the numbers will be there. 375hp at the tire through a T5 and 9” Ford rear is right around 315hp measured at the wheels. The car is every bit of either measure, 375 at the flywheel or 315 at the tire.
@ Great! U just got yourself a new sub. Can’t wait to see!