Great video Charles you granted my wish with a video about static pressures and proper speeds. As for the unit I am not sure it's oversized question is does this unit heat the, whole house or just the upstairs at 100,000 btus that seems like thats more appropriate to heat the, whole house So maybe more supplies need to be added to heat the whole house and set up zoning for cooling so 2 seperate units can handle cooling. Just a thought charles but a good lesson in when building a house on why you design and build properly for the size of the house. Keep em coming charies and defenetely a cheer up from the, awful pipe doctor video today I watched where he trashed a, custumer who is disputing through the new York legal system an overcharge for the part not the labor charge which tells me the part was under warrenty and if the part is under warrenty pipe doctor needs to seek his payment for the part from the manufacture not harass and go after the custumer and seek machenics Leins against his house over a 275 parts charge that he needs to seek from the manufacturer not the customer. As the customer has had no issue with paying the labor charge which was 205 dollars. Maybe charies you should set up hvac in new York. Just kidding.
Water heater PTV line going to the pan?? I agree that the ducts seem to be undersized. Foam isolation blocks under the unit would help. After a visual inspection I would have jumped the green wire to run the blower
I never could understand why builders want to stick the water heater in the attic. Even it being in a pan isn't gonna catch all the water should the tank rupture. If that ain't bad enough, it looks like the P&T valve is dumping in the pan.
Ohh charies sorry to comment again but if the return duct is undersized maybe you can increase the size but from what I saw the return size was 14 inches or was that the supply side but all those the ducts looked pretty big like 12 inches 14 inches but if they are oversized I would start with redoing the ductwork and maybe look into having it heat the whole house but I know as a general rule it's around 60,000 btus with gas per 1500 to 2,000 square feet so wgsrz it's square footage of the house is the unit just heating the, second floor to me it should be heating the whole house and same for cooling. But maybe for cooling be zoned. Again I am just trying to follow the logic based off of what you are saying.
I dont know much about HVAC but i use isolation pads when installin air compressors in auto shops.. what would you think about putting isolation pads between the unit and the blocks. they are suppose to take the vibration
Definitely 💯 agree 😊
Not to mention the towel in the water heater overflow pan 😅
That towel in the overflow pan is a classic.
Good information given as you work the problem!
Appreciate the feedback!
Great video Charles you granted my wish with a video about static pressures and proper speeds.
As for the unit I am not sure it's oversized question is does this unit heat the, whole house or just the upstairs at 100,000 btus that seems like thats more appropriate to heat the, whole house
So maybe more supplies need to be added to heat the whole house and set up zoning for cooling so 2 seperate units can handle cooling.
Just a thought charles but a good lesson in when building a house on why you design and build properly for the size of the house.
Keep em coming charies and defenetely a cheer up from the, awful pipe doctor video today I watched where he trashed a, custumer who is disputing through the new York legal system an overcharge for the part not the labor charge which tells me the part was under warrenty and if the part is under warrenty pipe doctor needs to seek his payment for the part from the manufacture not harass and go after the custumer and seek machenics Leins against his house over a 275 parts charge that he needs to seek from the manufacturer not the customer.
As the customer has had no issue with paying the labor charge which was 205 dollars.
Maybe charies you should set up hvac in new York.
Just kidding.
Nice video! Keep up the Good Work!!!!
Thanks for watching!
Water heater PTV line going to the pan??
I agree that the ducts seem to be undersized.
Foam isolation blocks under the unit would help.
After a visual inspection I would have jumped the green wire to run the blower
Have to energize a mode for it run at full speed. G just runs 50%
Damn, .45 in the supply duct is crazy. You could probably add another .3 for that coil. Supply static is out of control there.
I never could understand why builders want to stick the water heater in the attic. Even it being in a pan isn't gonna catch all the water should the tank rupture. If that ain't bad enough, it looks like the P&T valve is dumping in the pan.
Ohh charies sorry to comment again but if the return duct is undersized maybe you can increase the size but from what I saw the return size was 14 inches or was that the supply side but all those the ducts looked pretty big like 12 inches 14 inches but if they are oversized I would start with redoing the ductwork and maybe look into having it heat the whole house but I know as a general rule it's around 60,000 btus with gas per 1500 to 2,000 square feet so wgsrz it's square footage of the house is the unit just heating the, second floor to me it should be heating the whole house and same for cooling.
But maybe for cooling be zoned.
Again I am just trying to follow the logic based off of what you are saying.
Nice vid
I dont know much about HVAC but i use isolation pads when installin air compressors in auto shops.. what would you think about putting isolation pads between the unit and the blocks. they are suppose to take the vibration
When we add the 2 blocks we will add a pad on each.
Rag around bottom of water heater