Suspended Coin ~ Resin Paperweight
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- I wanted to figure out how to suspend objects in resin to preserve them and display them. I used this silicone mold to make a beaded paperweight and figured I could also use it to suspend other objects but the challenge was figuring out how to keep them in the center of the resin while it was curing. As you'll see in this video, I figured it out! I do recommend that you use a better quality resin if you are going to preserve an heirloom or piece of memorabilia. A jewelry grade resin would achieve a much clearer and bubble free appearance.
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I just saw another video that they poured half 1st then layed the coin and poured and layer..so kool.thank u.
Because this mold has a beveled edge around the top, that would not have produced the finished product I was after. Thank you for watching!
You helped me immensely to understand the process.
Great! Happy I could help!
@@JeanninesCraftroom I am building a walking staff with a sealed head of Marine corps challenge coins and emblems from Native Americans. The wood is African Mahogany. I have only one chance so it must be done correctly.
@@ijbtheterrible Good luck! I would recommend a trial run on other coins and another stick first, make sure everything is going to work.out the way you want before applying the techniques to the real deal.
@@JeanninesCraftroom Thanks, I have an extra length of the mahogany so I can cut and test before I attempt my final design. I am looking for a wolf, buffalo, hawk image to place into the wood. At this time my wood measures two and one-half inches square but I will remove the corners to round out some-what. I can leave a squared area for the pictures if deemed necessary.
While pouring your resin, if you lift the cup high above the mold, it'll reduce the amount of bubbles you're getting. The idea behind it is that the higher you pour from, the thinner the stream of resin becomes, leaving no room for air to get trapped. Gives you better results without having to buy the more expensive stuff.
Jason B The only problem I've had with that method is the resin gets kinda spider-webish and will drift away from where I'm pouring it. But it does sound good in theory.
Jeannine's Craft Room you may just be holding it up way too high then.
Thank you for your video, this really helped us with our own project of placing sea shells into a bottle for a special gift for our friend.
I'm so happy it helped you. Thanks for watching!!
So if you pour epoxy onto a already hardened epoxy it doesn’t leave a seam or line when it’s all done!?
I always get a seam
That's a great idea and a great way to do that. Have you ever considered a heat gun to pop the bubbles?
That's been recommended to me but I haven't tried it yet. Thank you for watching!
A hair dryer or heat gun would be less harmful to your silicone mold. You could also try filling your mold half way without your coin or ring in the resin. Wait for the first half to set, but not cure. Then add your coin, then add the rest of the resin and allow it to cure overnight.
Interesting to see. I thought you may have a line showing between the two pourings,
but you seem to have avoided that.
There is a line but it is barely noticeable. I think a better quality resin would yield better overall results.
I suspended a nut and bolt in resin using this method and I got a joint line. It bugs me but cant see a way around it maybe I'm looking at it 2 closely 😁
this is so beautiful .. it does not have to be crystal clear .. vage or dark add more mistery .. just dont add too dark .👍
dark is allwayse behind the object..then clear in front..
mazen edrees Thank you!
You could simply do a half pour, lay the coin flat then complete the pour! No clothes pin crap.
OR you could read the previous comments and discover that there was a good reason for doing it this way since the top of the mold has a beveled edge, making it very distinctly the top. So if I laid the coin on its side in the mold, I'd be looking at the thin edge of the coin when displaying the piece instead of the sides of the coin. The more you know...
I like the beveled mold. Where do you get them? Most of the ones I see are just square. Are they available in larger sizes? Thanks!
I got mine on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
I learnt something today! Thank you! Out of curiosity, where did you find that mould. I am looking for one that is shiny inside as well, but have yet to find one.
I found it on Amazon. They have tons of silicone mold in every shape you can imagine. You find them mostly in bakeware and candy making categories. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I have looked on Amazon.ca (because I am in Canada) and saw lots, but could not tell if they were shiny inside. What size were yours, if you don't mind telling me? I am trying to find one at least 3 inches wide. Would you be willing to tell me the name of your mould. I just make these as gifts to my family and friends.
Linda Muir I'm sorry, I don't know the name of it. I think it's about 2 inches square.
😃😃😃. PRESSURE POT😊❤️😊❤️😊❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸
I loved it!
Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
Very handy tip.Thanks
Thank you!
Put down one layer let it dry lay the objects on top and add a second layer over the top
Do you let it completely dry?
Bel P., no, just until it’s gelatinized enough to support the weight of the object.
@@Dragonuv2002 ...and you don't see the seem that is the two pours?
Rob I, generally speaking, because it really depends on the resin, if you pour the following layers while the first layer is still tacky, it’ll blend in real well and you won’t be able to see a seam. Most of what I do is at least two layers, most are four layers and up...depending on what I’m embedding. I use the Alumilite clear slow and the Alumilite amazing clear cast, and I never have seam issues.
Wow..what kind of resin is this?
Richard Rizzolo Resin Alcohol Ink Art it's a two part epoxy resin that I bought at Lowe's and the brand is Famowood.
Brilliant thank you
Judith Long Thank you!!
Is there a way to recover that quarter from the resin? I have one with some silver half dollars in it I would like to get out.
WAYNE V. I think it's going to take a solvent if some sort, but I honestly don't know what it would be. You run the risk of unpredictable chemical reactions that could be dangerous. Most companies have help lines. I'd call the manufacturer of the resin and see what they recommend.
@@JeanninesCraftroom ...hack saw!
I have a question on paperweights. When letting a layer set then pour on another layer how do you keep a seam from showing on the 2 layers
+Willie McCowan With this particular resin I was not able to achieve a seamless transition. I do believe if a higher grade of resin was used, such as a jewelry grade resin, I believe there would be no seam. I knew that the resin I was using wasn't the right grade for such thick pourings or for preserving cherished memorabilia. But it was great and affordable to practice with to get the technique down. Thanks for watching!
thanks much
Nice bubbles
Lol! Yeah, I know!! Hahaha. you would get less bubbling and clearer results with a jewelry grade resin. But it's expensive so I went with cheaper resin since this was an experimental test run. Thanks for watching!!
+Jeannine's Craft Room have you tried using a blow lamp or heat gun to get rid of the bubbles.
+Jazzy Briggs I have not, what a great idea! I've got a heat gun and I have a resin project coming up. I'm going to try that!! Thanks for the tip!
+Jeannine's Craft Room I got the idea from a few video's that I've watched on RUclips as I'm looking off getting into the hobby now I don't go metal detecting but haven't a clue where to start or what kind of stuff I need.
+Jazzy Briggs You will need two part epoxy type resin, molds of some sort (depends on what you want to make) I recommend silicone, disposable mixing cups, measuring cups with ml or ounce measuring lines and either silicone stirring device or craft sticks for stirring. After you've got the basics you can start playing around with stuff you have on hand, like paints, glitter, findings, etc. And of course you'll need plenty of imagination!
what about to make two layers?
MegaInformazione I'm not sure I understand your question. Could you elaborate a bit for me? Thanks!
Jeannine's Craft Room
Sure, I mean pour the first level fo resin and let it cure.
Then put the objecs over the first layer, and pour the final layer of resin.
It' works like charm
then once it is all dry rotate the final product so that it is standing
I think what most people miss in the video is that the mold I'm using has a distinctive top that has beveled edges, it is not a perfect square all the way around. If I would pour one layer of resin, wait for it to harden, place the coin laying down and then pour another layer of resin, the the thin edge of the coin would be facing the sides of the mold. I wanted the large round parts of the coin to face out to the sides. I hope this makes sense! Thanks for watching and responding. I missed these replies somehow.
Why not just lay your first layer of resin, let that harden a bit, lay coin down on that layer then pour the rest
As i have explained many times in previous comments, this mold has a beveled edge around the top and I didn't want the coin facing up. I wanted it facing the sides.
@@JeanninesCraftroom ...Oh mY God! People don't read!
ice resin, thank you
Glad I was able to help!
You know an easy way to do this would to be just putting the coin on top of the half set resin and just pour the rest over top.
The Restoration of Dr Who Yes, it would have been, except the mold wasn't a perfect square. The top edges are beveled. So if I had just laid the coin on its side and poured the resin on top, when I unfolded it, the thin side of the coin would have been what was showing on the side of the paper weight. I didn't want the head and tail of the coin to face the top and bottom of the paper weight. I wanted the head and tail of the coin to face the sides of the paper weight. Finding a way to suspend it in the resin in this way, keeping in mind that there is a distinctive "top" of the mold, was necessary to achieve the results I was after.
I know how you did this but I want to suspend a glass bubble with ashes in side, i sealed the glass bubble, when I put it into the resin it kept floating, i worked that out but when I left it to cure the air forced its way out and made a large air bubble
marie brindley Did the air bubble work it's way to the surface of your casting? If so, drizzle some resin into it to fill it. If not, can you drill to the air bubble? Then, you would be able to fill it with resin. Resin is almost magical in the way it will fill all the little spaces and not be noticeable. Good luck with your project!