Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80. Codes P0706,0707,0712,0715 I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2. We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem. Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens. Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change. After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear. We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it. What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home. Now I’m thinking torque converter too. Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans? Where would the fluid have come from? It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
Very possible torque converter, fluid was probably leaking out of the front seal, may have gotten to hot, i'm seeing the same issue with the early fords where the front seal peels back and leaks
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. My 2013 f150 is in the shop now getting the trans pump replaced to fix a leak (trans fluid leaking at the bell housing). Great video! I now have a much better sense of the work that they are doing.
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
Lots of great tips, as always... Dont you wish these newer transmission had pressure test ports. It would make diagnosing a p0731 code a lot easier. I had a 2001 accord come in today with no 2nd gear, and got to hook up my pressure gauge because it had a test port. Made me wish the newer stuff had test ports also.
We also see a lot of early 2000s hondas quite frequently. I put the pressure gauge on the 2nd pressure circuit, to be 100% sure it was a mechanical condition, and by the way the pressure came it, I figured it was either the piston lip seal worn out, or the sealing ring worn out. Now I am just waiting for customer approval. I might make a video on monday, going on a test drive, since I still have the gauge taped to the windshield, so people can see how the pressure reacts.
On the hondas its all about how fast the pressure rises, i had one that had a bad 1-2 shift, with the gauge on it, when it hit 2nd, it would rise to 30psi, hang there for a few seconds then up to 120. When you have a good 1-2 shift you will see the gauge go striaght up to 120psi(and not stop along the way)
Ya thats exactly what mine did. I took the solenoid block off, and turned the pentagon allen in 1/4 and it made no difference on the shift. just to do a little test since I had some time
RUclips was built for content like this. Love it. I have a 2012 6r80 in my Navigator. Trying to learn about this trans since I've developed what feels like a slip or maybe what I would call a 'downshift hunt' from overdrive to 5th? Ha .. I don't even know how many gears are in this thing :) but I'm guessing 6 from the name :)
@@GaryFerraro Hey Gary - Thanks! I need to find a trans rock star like you in ATL :) The vehicle has about 250k miles. I replaced the moulded lead frame about 100k miles ago when I experienced some strangeness and it threw some codes related to output shaft speed sensor, which I understand is part of that lead frame. It's been good ever since. I have been using FORScan to investigate as much as I can myself, but I'm quickly approaching the limits of my abilities / knowledge. Plus I'm not really sure if FORScan is reading codes from the TCM or not .. I have LOTS of data, but no codes that I can find. But man, this is GREAT content. Definitely have a new subscriber.
How do i find a technical mechanic like you that will look into the transmission and find the issue as it is. Is there a type of shop or label of technician? Im a mechanic that never pierced the veil of trannys- i knew my limits lmao
Great video. I’m a former trans rebuilder but been out of the game for a few years but now own a Ford Ranger and want to do some valve body mods. This will definitely help. Keep up the good work 👍
2009 f150 4.6l 6r80 have a code of p0741 and i replace the torque converter. But first, December 2023,as i was driving on dirt road by taking my niece to school, the wrench light came on and i had my obd2 scanner and it says p0741 and i erase the code but it feels like its low on fluid. no leaking on transfer case, its a 4×4 and mileage is 193,000 and always check the fluid, sometimes i take truck to service, the mechanic always overtighten the screws on pan.So fast forward to Feburary 2024, i order the shutter fix lubricant and it works for while as i drive to store and back, as i drive uphill i hear a stud sound and wrench light came on, u tried to tell ford service or the neighobors about the issue, they dont know what it is. Nowadays, the ford dealer told me that the parts for my vehicle are discontinued. told me to go oreilly or autozone or salvage yard. do i need a oil pump also. i have no problems going reverse, drive, neutral, and park but when i go downhill it downshift to 1 gear but no problems when shifting to 1-6 speed. when doing transmission work, every seal needs to be replace?
@@GaryFerraro no other code present, just 741 and I clear the code in January 2024 and I pour a quart into tranny before I bought a shutter fixx and it helps. February 2024 as I was heading home I was going uphill speed limit was 55 mph and over the hill is 65 mph, I hear a stud and the wrench light tool came on and made it home. I pulled out the Obd2 scanner and its DTC says p0741 but as I drain out the transmission fluid there was not dirty and one of the screws was stripped and I use a extracted but unable to take it out. as I pull out the transmission down, I noticed the torque converter was failing but I don't see any leaking fluid coming from the pump. as we replaced the front seal and we put the replacement torque converter back in, we hear a stud again so we're still trying to think if the pump broke or we're trying to align the transmission to the crankshaft. When my dad first bought the truck, it was running good, no one didn't mess around with the tranny until we had the fluid flush at 100,000 miles and then this 741.
What do you think, just replaced the torque converter but look into the oil pump to see any issues. Oh yes, just the 741 code in January 2024, then I cleared it and code present again on mid February with same code present 741 but no other code were present. But I still have to replace all the seals even there no leaks on transmission, crankshaft and transfer case.
great video as always ,muy bien mr Gary, I never had a Honda before I just purchased a Honda Odyssey 2006 with a 200,000 on it what do you think about this transmission? hope don't break on my anytime soon seems to be working fine for the moment.
@@GaryFerraro Friend, I have a 2010 4x4 explorer with a 6r60 transmission, and the problem is that it doesn't work in reverse, I have to wait for it to warm and grab, and forwards it hits, the scandal and nothing comes out of the left front wheel sensor code. They told me it was the filter, but what do you think it is? I await your response.
@@sonrie4821 Car has to be on a lift, right side of the trans, by the bell housing, there is something that looks like a lug nut, the small dipstick is under that
Question I just removed my vavle body on my 6r80 and that seal between the pump and valve body was cracked on the bigger side what kind of problems can that cause?
Given the 6R80 is basically a ZF6hp26 built under licence, do you think or know, if the 6R80 sump and filter would fit the 6hp26? Looks like a bigger filter and higher capacity sump, and with steel transferring heat away better than plastic, could be a really cheap worthwhile upgrade. I'm in the UK where we don't have the 6R80, so would have to source from across the pond.
Awesome videos Gary. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I’ve undertaken a 6R60 rebuild. I had multiple clutch failures due to coolant contamination. No other damage. Should I replace thrust bearings or leave them if they seem fine?
Double thumbs up for such a quick reply. Thanks Gary. Any success I have with my first ever transmission rebuild will be credited to you and your videos. Failure will credited to me, of course.
Thanks Gary. I sincerely appreciate the service you provide by spending extra time to film, edit, and post these videos. I am mechanically inclined, but have always considered an automatic transmission some kind of magical mystery box. You're videos have begun to remove the veil for me. It was last fall that I went to the local dealer for transmission service (drain/fill+filter). They found the milkshake. They flushed the trans and cooler, and replaced the radiator. they told me there may be permanent clutch damage, but when they were done, it drove fine. Fast forward to August... It started slipping. I dropped the pan and opened the filter. It was full of disk fiber. After watching hours of your videos, I got brave enough to take the rebuild on myself. I don't know the names of the clutches, but two of them had burned (no more fiber) disks. I was happy to find an actual point of failure. I am about to order all of the parts I will need (rebuild kit+steels, torque converter, zip kit, new air to oil cooler, and fluid). If you could recommend brands for the kit and converter brand or source, I would be even more in your debt. I want high quality parts, but I am also balancing a tight budget.
Hello Gary. I am in amazement of your knowledge here, made me want to just jump out my seat and start tearing it down. So I did have a question. Long story short had trans oil in my coolant and replaced all the hoses and radiator and last week went to check my transmission to get a flush. Shop is went to called me back and said they had a strawberry milkshake and did a flush as best they could. I do have a hard 3 to 4 shift and am trying to understand what the best course of action would be?
I have a 2010 f150 FX4, and is leaking oil between the transmission and transfer case,it’s leaking where the bolts are, the bolts that are holding together the transmission and transfer case.any suggestion?
Yes I have cleaned, and looks like it’s from the joint of the transmission and transfer case. I even checked the electric plug, cause I saw some videos that they were saying that could be the problem of th leak. But it’s a lot oil that leaks.
@@stevealbarran Well it's possible, not very common. Was the car on a lift when you checked by chance? Maybe an issue with the rear seal. Pan is dry and bellhousing is dry?
Have a 2007 expedition 6r75 that’s having some shifting issues, I went to check the fluid after running it a little while it began to start foaming pretty good out of the fill hole, would a cracked bridge gasket cause that?
@@service13 yes, try ATSG.com, there is a transport company with the same letters, look for techincal help with transmissions or google atsg transmissions
I have this transmission in my 2012 Lincoln Navigator. Periodically (about once a month or less) .. I have a significant jolt / jarring so severe that the first couple times it happened, I would have bet money I had been rear-ended. I don't know if this is transmission related or possibly related to the "slip joint" not being property greased (see: www.eurekaboy.com/f250/slipjoint.htm). Are you familiar with any 1>2 gear jerk / bump issue with this tranny?
Thank you very much for the reply, I really appreciate it! My CEL is not on. I don't know if codes can be present without the CEL, but I can stop at autozone or wherever and pull codes. Fluid levels seem fine, and under normal circumstances (99.9% of the time) the transmission feels very strong and solid. It is always on the upshift, but really is pronounced when I accelerate through first and then at about the time it would shift into second, I come off the accelerator and the tranny is not under load when shifting from 1>2 (It is also possible that it's 2>3 .. since 1 is soo dang shallow).
I thought I would update my own issue. The vehicle did finally malfunction in a more revealing way. The speedometer stopped working and the in-dash computer displayed dashes for most items. It did this several times and finally eventually threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit malfunction). Further reading and research makes me think I should replace the moulded lead connector that is part of the valve body. I've never done anything like this, so I'm trying to see if this is something I can do myself or not. The input and output sensors are part of this lead body assembly.
I have this tranmisssion in my truck and I think it's starting to get worn put. I bought it at 90,000 miles and had the tranmisssion fluid changed at ford and the writer said everything looked good. About 4 months ago I had the TCM reflashed for the recall notice. I've noticed that at freeway speeds, it downshifts hard into 4th gear. It currently has about 130,000 miles on it. Still has plenty of power and the temp stays in the normal range. Do you think this is just worn clutches in the 4th clutch pack or could it be something else? Thanks
@@GaryFerraro no codes, and it's down shifting at what would seem like normal circumstances, like going up a hill or increasing speeds, it's just much more aggressive than the other shifts.
Cee Magee Transmission are very similar. Same overhaul kit. Same bushing kit. Valve body and solenoids may be different. I think there is only one part number for the lead frame too.
Gary, 2010 F150 6R80, intermittently will not shift UP into 2nd gear from first. This is getting more frequent. To "fix" I typically pop it into neutral then back into Drive. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off completely, then restart. Sounds electrical. Your thoughts please?
No fluid check yet, but no leaks either. Yes, I just scanned - no codes. How can I get no codes when it's dropping directly into 1st gear? I do plan to service the tranny this weekend: drop pan, replace filter. Should I go ahead and replace the leadframe?
Hey Gary I have a question for you. I have a 2014 F150 4wd with this transmission and my truck has a harsh shift/bang when going from park to drive or reverse only when cold. If I give the engine time to warm, nice smooth shift. Could that be related to a fluid level or maybe just because it was cold and needed time to fill the lines with fluid?
Gary Ferraro yes i have the 6r80. i think its when the rpms are in the 1000's because it only happens on initial start if i dont let the engine warm up. Ill start it and put it into gear immediately. if i wait about 5 min nice smooth shift. other wise shifting from 1-2, 2-3 etc. have no problem
Gary Ferraro thank you thats what i thought . ill just remember to give the engine alittle more time to warm up or until the rpms drop to normal idle from now on
Hello Gary, if you have a spare moment, I would like to ask you a few questions (and sorry for long post), as I have a hard time finding any accurate information here in Ireland. We own a little garage family business and with your educational videos I am confident enough that I will be able to do a full reconditioning myself. 1. Is a 2004 ZF 6HP26 similar internally with a newer 6R80, let's say from 2011 onwards? 2. Would a friction plate kit such as Exedy stage one - product code: EFK291HP1 suit the 6HP26 even tho it's been said to work with the 6R80? 3. Apparently people & forums seem to state that the 6HP26 and 6R80 would be very very alike internally thus the friction kit will fit both. My current engine upgrades and power remap are causing my 6HP26 to slip in 5th especially and also 6th. Even though it is fully functional under heavy acceleration from 1st to 4th which doesn't make sense. Gear changes are generally smooth but a rare and slight clunk coming from 3rd to 2nd. Oil and filter have been changed twice without any luck. Aftermarket support here in Ireland for auto transmission is extremely limited and specialized workshops that I have called in seem to have little to no experiences with these specific transmissions. So all information and parts that I would require to fix my auto tranny has to be gathered abroad. Everyone is advising full reconditioning but without the ability to buy a stronger clutch system I don't see much point in doing so. If you have any advice I would love to hear it! Thanking you for your videos and amazing work.
hello, I just did some research on these frictons and it looks like most of them are the same except for the E clutch, that is a different thickness from 2009 and up ZF6HP26 E clutch is .063 and the 2009 and up 6R80 E clutch is .079, and on these transmissions you have to watch your clearances, i would like to confirm this by speaking with my parts rep. As far as the slipping is concerened you probably have either a worn rear stator bushing(seals E clutch oil for 4th,5th,6th gears or a solenoid mechanically clogged, these are the 2 most common problems with this transmission and i would recommend installing new solenoids and a bushing kit. What kind of car do you have that needs a trans BMW?
Gary Ferraro thank you for coming back to me that quick. I really appreciate it. It is a 2004 BMW 730d. In-line 6 cylinder diesel. I didn't know these bushes have so much influence of how the gears would function. Make sense now why it only slips on the last gears. Do you know if Exedy or any other company would have for sale stronger friction kits specially for the 6hp26? Or is there much point of upgrading friction plates? Car is running approx 400 hp and 800nm. Apparently the 6hp26 is only rated at 650nm max. I rang Exedy themselves in England but they refuse to share any information with the end user so I cannot find what I need. Thank you for ur help.
Ciprian Manaila I would have to ask my supplier if he knows of this and get back to you. If your going to install a bushing kit, Omega machine has a great product.
Gary Ferraro thanks. To be honest i wouldn't mind buying the required parts for the rebuild from you, if you have a website that I can log onto. Of course, if you sale and ship in Europe. Let me know if these clutches are available. I will also look into the bushing kit.
Checked with my supplier today all clutches except for the E clutch are the same as the 6R80, so be careful there. I do not sell parts, sorry. I asked my supplier if he can ship to europe but he cant only the US.
not yet, i do have a unit to do when i have time, so when i get to iti will see if i can film it, if there is an assembly video on a ZF6HP26 you can watch that very similar units
My 6r80 make a clunk noise going from reverse to drive, hear that is normal but, what is the reason why? Trans output shaft flange rotates back and forth in Park sounds like my rear end, there seems to be a lot of play, but besides that the transmission shifts perfect no slippage and runs strong.
Gary Ferraro what do you recommend for maintenance and what type of trans oil works best for 6r80, thinking about adding an extra trans cooler. I like to put the trans in sport and run through the gears.
Transmission service every 30k, the recommended oil is Mercon LV, If you use a premium synthetic oil like castrol or amsoil you should be fine, make sure you use an OE filter
@@GaryFerraro I see - I'm in the UK, just got one of these in with no drive and an output speed sensor failure and a couple gear 1&2 ratio DTC's I was confident was a result of the output sensor. 3.2 TDCi Ranger Wildtrak - 80k miles, never had a transmission flush or filter. With the earlier problematic TC and output speed sensor/lead frame issues that seemingly weren't warrantied under the recall as it's an import from Auz or something. I dunno. Client is being short with the history of the car and what's been messed with in the past. Oil dark brown, magnets full with fine steel filings, oil saturated with aluminium but micron sized. It was actually quite pretty in a way watching it in the sun and agitating it. So ultimately what I concluded is that the box and/or TC that is on there isn't the box and/or TC it left the factory with. I'm only guessing this because inside the TC were needle bearing rollers from an input shaft bearing (the one inside the pump). Plus the insidious carnage they were causing but, the pump on the box had a bush? Not an empty needle roller case like I was expecting... I'm scratching my head as to how they got there. Any ideas? They've obviously been shoved into the TC some way by the input shaft upon fitting after the original needle bearing collapsed while removing the transmission off the TC in situ. We don't see a lot of autos over here, 8.4 million in total only. That's rising rapidly though. I've learned so much about this gearbox the last few days. Always understood almost fully the concept of operation and components but never had the guts to dive in.
@@ssss-df5qz The design is similar to the ZF6HP26, they did use a bearing instead of a bushing, maybe early models had a bushing, Never heard of a Ranger wildtrak, does Ford make that car?
@@GaryFerraro oh and it's bushings all through the box too. I did think it was going to be them just changing the roller for a bush but that wouldn't make sense as they were in the area where the roller would have collapsed and left the debris. Now got a good friend with a mechatronic valve body issue. I'm a glutton for punishment.
hello gary, do you know what might cause whining noise in this transmission when driving in all gears and reverse ? it is in my ford expedition 2012 . Thanks
Gary Ferraro the noise is always there when the gear is engaged I tried R D 3 2 and 1, when in neutral its quite if it helps, I just changed the fluid from dealer othrised workshop, the noise kept going the same thing.
The converter is a sealed unit, but something is wrong, if its caught in time you may be able to get away with just putting a converter in, if the converter blows then you may need a trans as well, so you may want to look into this
Hi Gary , I remove transmission pan and old filter for fluid change and filter change . Old fluid was clean . Truck has 89000 miles . After assemble the pan back on. I started my truck and it would not move out of gear . The alarm code was the p0731 code . I have 2012 4x4 ecoboost 6r80 . What could be the cause ?
Gary Ferraro sorry for late response .it did it after fluid change . I used correct transmission fluid . The truck will no shift in any gear . You think it’s an electrical problem ?
@@damonmoore7922 how much fluid did you put back in, if this did not happen before must be something with the filter or not enough fluid, possible the filter may have fallen out. No reverse either?
I believe I was about 6 quarts and checked the dip stick . I went to dealership yesterday after they perform molded lead frame recall . And they said it was good to go but inform it needs a new transmission . I asked why and all they said was internal damage . I inform how is that if you didn’t take transmission apart . The oil was clean with no metal shavings . I feel tech couldn’t find problem and just said need a new transmission .
Gary Ferraro yes it is but can be removed pretty easily. I replaced the output flange seal along with a flat bearing race that the flange buts up to then torqued to 60ft-lb. it seemed like it was good after that but first drive it’s vibrating really bad at about 55mph. I checked my driveline and pinion angles and they are good. I have around a 1/16”-1/8” play in the flange in all directions.
Gary Ferraro thanks Gary!! I looked into the tires and had them rebalanced. This transmission is in a 99 mustang with drag tires so I cannot rotate. I’m taking in the custom drive shaft to have it re-balanced as well. The wheels I have are billet aluminum and our Lug-nut centric, Not hubcentric so I have purchased hubcentric alignment rings to see if this helps. Thank you so much for your time sir I will let you know what I find out
Im going to check my manual tomorrow, i just finished a ZF6HP26 and these transmissions are very similar, i did not need special pliers to remove the snap ring for the center support just a big screw driver
@@GaryFerraro just had the ford dealer tell me it was a warranty recall.. altough no one told me, so now its been to many kilometers so i gotta cop it and fix it myself. They also told me to try to catch and reuse the old oil? As doing a flush can sometimes make the clutches not work? Its done like 190 000 miles lol
Ok he must have never changed the fluid? I have the same trans in my car so just wondering if there are major flaws with this unit or just poor maintenance.
Actually what happened is the fluid leaked out. There is a TSB on this problem and they want you to replace the pump body and gears but all you have to replace is the front seal and pump o-ring. gary
Thats all i came across so far, keep an eye on that fluid level, being the fact that this is very similar to the ZF6HP26, there may be issues with bushing wear
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
@@GaryFerraroyes I changed out many of the hard parts based on your videos and some recommendations from others. Essentially, the internals are 100% new
Gary,thank you for sharing you personal experiences with transmission issues in these instructional videos.👌👍👍
Thanks for watching
Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80.
Codes P0706,0707,0712,0715
I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2.
We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem.
Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens.
Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change.
After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear.
We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it.
What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home.
Now I’m thinking torque converter too.
Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans?
Where would the fluid have come from?
It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
Very possible torque converter, fluid was probably leaking out of the front seal, may have gotten to hot, i'm seeing the same issue with the early fords where the front seal peels back and leaks
Lovely teardown video.! thanks for make this videos.!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. My 2013 f150 is in the shop now getting the trans pump replaced to fix a leak (trans fluid leaking at the bell housing). Great video! I now have a much better sense of the work that they are doing.
Fairly common issue, the front seal peels back causing the leak, but there is a TSB on this and the fix is to replace the pump body and gears
Thank you sir
I'm glad I came across your vid. I couldn't find out how to get the planet off the forward clutch. Thanks!
Makitta your welcome
very informative ..I really enjoy watching your videos...thanks Eng. Gary.
Thank you very much
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
Great video!!!! Thank you so much for your expertise and attention to details!!!! Very informative!!!!
Thanks for watching, please subscribe
Love it ur the man I'm glad you got a 11 6 speed ford I've wanted to see one
Thanks Tony and thanks for watching, i have more footage for this trans i will put up on the channel
I can't wait until you do a 6l80 rebuild
i will keep that in mind
Lots of great tips, as always... Dont you wish these newer transmission had pressure test ports. It would make diagnosing a p0731 code a lot easier. I had a 2001 accord come in today with no 2nd gear, and got to hook up my pressure gauge because it had a test port. Made me wish the newer stuff had test ports also.
Those hondas with no 2nd gear is fairly common, i do at least one a week
We also see a lot of early 2000s hondas quite frequently. I put the pressure gauge on the 2nd pressure circuit, to be 100% sure it was a mechanical condition, and by the way the pressure came it, I figured it was either the piston lip seal worn out, or the sealing ring worn out. Now I am just waiting for customer approval. I might make a video on monday, going on a test drive, since I still have the gauge taped to the windshield, so people can see how the pressure reacts.
On the hondas its all about how fast the pressure rises, i had one that had a bad 1-2 shift, with the gauge on it, when it hit 2nd, it would rise to 30psi, hang there for a few seconds then up to 120. When you have a good 1-2 shift you will see the gauge go striaght up to 120psi(and not stop along the way)
Ya thats exactly what mine did. I took the solenoid block off, and turned the pentagon allen in 1/4 and it made no difference on the shift. just to do a little test since I had some time
I have the tool to adjust those, but most of the time i leave them as they are, but 1/8 to 1/4 turn is good, i wouldnt go anymore.
RUclips was built for content like this. Love it. I have a 2012 6r80 in my Navigator. Trying to learn about this trans since I've developed what feels like a slip or maybe what I would call a 'downshift hunt' from overdrive to 5th? Ha .. I don't even know how many gears are in this thing :) but I'm guessing 6 from the name :)
Correct 6 speeds, if your having shifting issues, you should have the car scanned for codes, lead frame failure is very common with this trans
@@GaryFerraro Hey Gary - Thanks! I need to find a trans rock star like you in ATL :) The vehicle has about 250k miles. I replaced the moulded lead frame about 100k miles ago when I experienced some strangeness and it threw some codes related to output shaft speed sensor, which I understand is part of that lead frame. It's been good ever since. I have been using FORScan to investigate as much as I can myself, but I'm quickly approaching the limits of my abilities / knowledge. Plus I'm not really sure if FORScan is reading codes from the TCM or not .. I have LOTS of data, but no codes that I can find. But man, this is GREAT content. Definitely have a new subscriber.
Nice job but what was the problem jest worn clutch ?????
Gary excellent job and explination
Thank you
Should get yourself a snap ring pliers from Adapt-a-case. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos. Someday I should do the same.
I actually have them, didn't work that great on this unit, the 6L80, the snap ring comes right out. Thanks for watching. Gary
How do i find a technical mechanic like you that will look into the transmission and find the issue as it is. Is there a type of shop or label of technician? Im a mechanic that never pierced the veil of trannys- i knew my limits lmao
Great video. I’m a former trans rebuilder but been out of the game for a few years but now own a Ford Ranger and want to do some valve body mods. This will definitely help. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you
Hey Gary. On my 2011 f150, it slams hard into second if I don't give enough gas. Have you heard of this problem? Thank you, I love your videos!
Love the tear downs nice job keep up ..👍
Thank you sir, thanks for watching and please subscribe
Very Technical, Loved the video, you teach well. Yes I liked and subscribed to this.
2009 f150 4.6l 6r80 have a code of p0741 and i replace the torque converter. But first, December 2023,as i was driving on dirt road by taking my niece to school, the wrench light came on and i had my obd2 scanner and it says p0741 and i erase the code but it feels like its low on fluid. no leaking on transfer case, its a 4×4 and mileage is 193,000 and always check the fluid, sometimes i take truck to service, the mechanic always overtighten the screws on pan.So fast forward to Feburary 2024, i order the shutter fix lubricant and it works for while as i drive to store and back, as i drive uphill i hear a stud sound and wrench light came on, u tried to tell ford service or the neighobors about the issue, they dont know what it is. Nowadays, the ford dealer told me that the parts for my vehicle are discontinued. told me to go oreilly or autozone or salvage yard. do i need a oil pump also. i have no problems going reverse, drive, neutral, and park but when i go downhill it downshift to 1 gear but no problems when shifting to 1-6 speed. when doing transmission work, every seal needs to be replace?
so you had 741 code, any other codes present? yyou cleared the code and it came back?
@@GaryFerraro no other code present, just 741 and I clear the code in January 2024 and I pour a quart into tranny before I bought a shutter fixx and it helps. February 2024 as I was heading home I was going uphill speed limit was 55 mph and over the hill is 65 mph, I hear a stud and the wrench light tool came on and made it home. I pulled out the Obd2 scanner and its DTC says p0741 but as I drain out the transmission fluid there was not dirty and one of the screws was stripped and I use a extracted but unable to take it out. as I pull out the transmission down, I noticed the torque converter was failing but I don't see any leaking fluid coming from the pump. as we replaced the front seal and we put the replacement torque converter back in, we hear a stud again so we're still trying to think if the pump broke or we're trying to align the transmission to the crankshaft. When my dad first bought the truck, it was running good, no one didn't mess around with the tranny until we had the fluid flush at 100,000 miles and then this 741.
What do you think, just replaced the torque converter but look into the oil pump to see any issues. Oh yes, just the 741 code in January 2024, then I cleared it and code present again on mid February with same code present 741 but no other code were present. But I still have to replace all the seals even there no leaks on transmission, crankshaft and transfer case.
@@raymondjohn3396 That may work, these converters do have problems
@@GaryFerraro do I need to check the oil pump or just replace the seals for transfer case and put back into truck?
great video as always ,muy bien mr Gary, I never had a Honda before I just purchased a Honda Odyssey 2006 with a 200,000 on it what do you think about this transmission? hope don't break on my anytime soon seems to be working fine for the moment.
Has it ever been done before? The weak point on that trans is 3rd gear
Any info on 6r80 no forward or reverse? Diagnosed as bad pump. None whining or grinding prior to failure. Just a sudden case of 6 neutrals.
Muito bom gostei 👏👏
Awesome videos Gary. Just wondering where is the trans temp sensor on a 2014 6r80
Part of the lead frame that now a days is very hard to get.
thanks for posting. replacing an output shaft speed sensor and this helps.
william wright were is it at
2012 does the thermal spring sit bottom side down. Exactly opposite the way you pulled yours out?
Going through this now on a 2014 Mustang GT. 2 shift packs burnt and bad rear bearing.
Which clutch packs?
Ver y good video señor . tanks
Thanks for watching
Friend greetings. Is there a 6r60 and 6r80 transmission that does not use the mechanical diode (Rachi)?
yes, early units built before 10-03-2010
after this they were added
Great video
I would be so nervous taking that thing apart... Thats why im willing to pay big bucks for people who know what they are doing...
Thanks for watching
Excelente video gracias ,por la información ,fuerte abrazo desde México
Thank you
@@GaryFerraro Friend, I have a 2010 4x4 explorer with a 6r60 transmission, and the problem is that it doesn't work in reverse, I have to wait for it to warm and grab, and forwards it hits, the scandal and nothing comes out of the left front wheel sensor code. They told me it was the filter, but what do you think it is? I await your response.
@@sonrie4821 Are there any codes present? has the fluid level been checked?
@@GaryFerraro It is scanned but it never throws left front wheel sensor code. How is the oil measured?
@@sonrie4821 Car has to be on a lift, right side of the trans, by the bell housing, there is something that looks like a lug nut, the small dipstick is under that
Question I just removed my vavle body on my 6r80 and that seal between the pump and valve body was cracked on the bigger side what kind of problems can that cause?
Major pressure loss inside the trans
Given the 6R80 is basically a ZF6hp26 built under licence, do you think or know, if the 6R80 sump and filter would fit the 6hp26?
Looks like a bigger filter and higher capacity sump, and with steel transferring heat away better than plastic, could be a really cheap worthwhile upgrade.
I'm in the UK where we don't have the 6R80, so would have to source from across the pond.
Matthew Jenkins I don’t think that it would fit
@@GaryFerraro Thanks I value your opinion. Given I cant grab one at the local scrap yard, you've probably saved me a lot of hassle.
@@matthewjenkins1161 Welcome, thanks for watching
My transmission is making a squawk type noise around 40mph usually up a slight incline
Ok, i would do a trans service and add a bottle of motorcraft friction modifier
213000 on it and I did the lead frame so it did have a pan drain and fill.
I mostly does it on slight hills when I lug the engine. It always does it at low rpm’s
WAIT,,cant you over fill & could that ruin something??
le puse todo nuebo disco y sello y caja de barbilla nueva original y sigue el problema keria saber la calibración delos tanbores
Buen video
Thank you
What’s the big gold gear you pulled out around 20:20. That only spins in one direction. What does that do
That is a one way clutch(OWC) this was added in 2011(i think) . Ford says they added it for better reliability and to help eliminate downshift clunks
Awesome videos Gary. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us. I’ve undertaken a 6R60 rebuild. I had multiple clutch failures due to coolant contamination. No other damage. Should I replace thrust bearings or leave them if they seem fine?
If they seem fine, you can leave them, just clean them good
Double thumbs up for such a quick reply. Thanks Gary. Any success I have with my first ever transmission rebuild will be credited to you and your videos. Failure will credited to me, of course.
@@fancynancyrie Any questions just let me know
@@fancynancyrie make sure the bearing spin smooth and clean them out. Did the fluid look like a milkshake?
Thanks Gary. I sincerely appreciate the service you provide by spending extra time to film, edit, and post these videos. I am mechanically inclined, but have always considered an automatic transmission some kind of magical mystery box. You're videos have begun to remove the veil for me. It was last fall that I went to the local dealer for transmission service (drain/fill+filter). They found the milkshake. They flushed the trans and cooler, and replaced the radiator. they told me there may be permanent clutch damage, but when they were done, it drove fine. Fast forward to August... It started slipping. I dropped the pan and opened the filter. It was full of disk fiber. After watching hours of your videos, I got brave enough to take the rebuild on myself. I don't know the names of the clutches, but two of them had burned (no more fiber) disks. I was happy to find an actual point of failure. I am about to order all of the parts I will need (rebuild kit+steels, torque converter, zip kit, new air to oil cooler, and fluid). If you could recommend brands for the kit and converter brand or source, I would be even more in your debt. I want high quality parts, but I am also balancing a tight budget.
Hello Gary. I am in amazement of your knowledge here, made me want to just jump out my seat and start tearing it down. So I did have a question. Long story short had trans oil in my coolant and replaced all the hoses and radiator and last week went to check my transmission to get a flush. Shop is went to called me back and said they had a strawberry milkshake and did a flush as best they could. I do have a hard 3 to 4 shift and am trying to understand what the best course of action would be?
I was wondering what name of the tool you was using to hit the bolts to loosing them on the pump
Impact driver, thanks for watching, please subscribe.
I have a 2010 f150 FX4, and is leaking oil between the transmission and transfer case,it’s leaking where the bolts are, the bolts that are holding together the transmission and transfer case.any suggestion?
Have you cleaned it down to confirm this? does it look like may be coming from the top of the unit
Yes I have cleaned, and looks like it’s from the joint of the transmission and transfer case. I even checked the electric plug, cause I saw some videos that they were saying that could be the problem of th leak. But it’s a lot oil that leaks.
@@stevealbarran Well there should be a transmission rear seal and a transfer case front seal. The transmission was low on oil
Yes,it had low oil, the transmission.I put 1.5 quarts, and it had leaked all, cause I just check the oil level and low again.
@@stevealbarran Well it's possible, not very common. Was the car on a lift when you checked by chance? Maybe an issue with the rear seal. Pan is dry and bellhousing is dry?
Buenos días sol de R,D tengo un problema con una trasmisión de esa 6R80cuando vas arrancar ase un básio y da un golpe de primera asegoda
Can you translate that to english
Thank you very much
Your welcome, thanks for watching and please subscribe
Have a 2007 expedition 6r75 that’s having some shifting issues, I went to check the fluid after running it a little while it began to start foaming pretty good out of the fill hole, would a cracked bridge gasket cause that?
I haven't seen that, is it overfull? any codes?
Where I can get the book, about this transmission?
ATSG They sell manuals for this unit
@@GaryFerraro atsg is it website?
@@service13 yes, try ATSG.com, there is a transport company with the same letters, look for techincal help with transmissions or google atsg transmissions
@@GaryFerraro thanks 👍
Is it possible to pull and replace the pump without pulling the valve body?
There is a seal inbetween the pump and valvebody, so it will have to come off
I have this transmission in my 2012 Lincoln Navigator. Periodically (about once a month or less) .. I have a significant jolt / jarring so severe that the first couple times it happened, I would have bet money I had been rear-ended. I don't know if this is transmission related or possibly related to the "slip joint" not being property greased (see: www.eurekaboy.com/f250/slipjoint.htm). Are you familiar with any 1>2 gear jerk / bump issue with this tranny?
Hi chris, Have you checked the fluid level and are there any codes present in the trans or engine? This happens on the upshift or downshift?
Thank you very much for the reply, I really appreciate it! My CEL is not on. I don't know if codes can be present without the CEL, but I can stop at autozone or wherever and pull codes. Fluid levels seem fine, and under normal circumstances (99.9% of the time) the transmission feels very strong and solid. It is always on the upshift, but really is pronounced when I accelerate through first and then at about the time it would shift into second, I come off the accelerator and the tranny is not under load when shifting from 1>2 (It is also possible that it's 2>3 .. since 1 is soo dang shallow).
I thought I would update my own issue. The vehicle did finally malfunction in a more revealing way. The speedometer stopped working and the in-dash computer displayed dashes for most items. It did this several times and finally eventually threw a P0720 (output speed sensor circuit malfunction). Further reading and research makes me think I should replace the moulded lead connector that is part of the valve body. I've never done anything like this, so I'm trying to see if this is something I can do myself or not. The input and output sensors are part of this lead body assembly.
I have this tranmisssion in my truck and I think it's starting to get worn put. I bought it at 90,000 miles and had the tranmisssion fluid changed at ford and the writer said everything looked good. About 4 months ago I had the TCM reflashed for the recall notice. I've noticed that at freeway speeds, it downshifts hard into 4th gear. It currently has about 130,000 miles on it. Still has plenty of power and the temp stays in the normal range. Do you think this is just worn clutches in the 4th clutch pack or could it be something else? Thanks
Are there any codes present, Is this downshifting on it's own?
@@GaryFerraro no codes, and it's down shifting at what would seem like normal circumstances, like going up a hill or increasing speeds, it's just much more aggressive than the other shifts.
@@GaryFerraro it also shifts the same way when you use the gear select feature to make it down shift to slow down on a grade.
@@samwagner31 Happens cold and hot? or only hot? Upshift 3-4 no problem
@@GaryFerraro only happens when hot and the up shifts are fine
Hello do you know of any shuttering issues with the 6r80 driving around 45-60 mph? Thanks
The torque converters have problems and thats about the speeds where they are commanded on for lock-up
Any idea on how to fix that issue? Thanks again.
Ignition issue, most of the time spark plug and coil would fix out
How different from 6R75 is this transmission? Goes in 2007 Ford expedition.
Cee Magee Transmission are very similar. Same overhaul kit. Same bushing kit. Valve body and solenoids may be different. I think there is only one part number for the lead frame too.
@@GaryFerraro Thank you.
Gary, 2010 F150 6R80, intermittently will not shift UP into 2nd gear from first. This is getting more frequent. To "fix" I typically pop it into neutral then back into Drive. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off completely, then restart. Sounds electrical. Your thoughts please?
Greg H are you getting any codes? Almost sounds like the lead frame is no good
No codes.
Quick question, have you had the fluid level checked on this, these actually like to leak from the front? You scanned and no codes?
No fluid check yet, but no leaks either. Yes, I just scanned - no codes. How can I get no codes when it's dropping directly into 1st gear? I do plan to service the tranny this weekend: drop pan, replace filter. Should I go ahead and replace the leadframe?
So sometimes this gets stuck in first? other times when you come to a stop and take off is the truck in failsafe?
Hey Gary I have a question for you. I have a 2014 F150 4wd with this transmission and my truck has a harsh shift/bang when going from park to drive or reverse only when cold. If I give the engine time to warm, nice smooth shift. Could that be related to a fluid level or maybe just because it was cold and needed time to fill the lines with fluid?
Question, do you have the 6R80? and what is the engine RPM when shifting into drive or reverse?
Gary Ferraro yes i have the 6r80. i think its when the rpms are in the 1000's because it only happens on initial start if i dont let the engine warm up. Ill start it and put it into gear immediately. if i wait about 5 min nice smooth shift. other wise shifting from 1-2, 2-3 etc. have no problem
When the RPM is high like that, you may get a bit of a harsh engagement, thats kinda normal
Gary Ferraro thank you thats what i thought . ill just remember to give the engine alittle more time to warm up or until the rpms drop to normal idle from now on
Your welcome, happy new year
Hello Gary, if you have a spare moment, I would like to ask you a few questions (and sorry for long post), as I have a hard time finding any accurate information here in Ireland. We own a little garage family business and with your educational videos I am confident enough that I will be able to do a full reconditioning myself.
1. Is a 2004 ZF 6HP26 similar internally with a newer 6R80, let's say from 2011 onwards?
2. Would a friction plate kit such as Exedy stage one - product code: EFK291HP1 suit the 6HP26 even tho it's been said to work with the 6R80?
3. Apparently people & forums seem to state that the 6HP26 and 6R80 would be very very alike internally thus the friction kit will fit both.
My current engine upgrades and power remap are causing my 6HP26 to slip in 5th especially and also 6th. Even though it is fully functional under heavy acceleration from 1st to 4th which doesn't make sense. Gear changes are generally smooth but a rare and slight clunk coming from 3rd to 2nd. Oil and filter have been changed twice without any luck.
Aftermarket support here in Ireland for auto transmission is extremely limited and specialized workshops that I have called in seem to have little to no experiences with these specific transmissions. So all information and parts that I would require to fix my auto tranny has to be gathered abroad.
Everyone is advising full reconditioning but without the ability to buy a stronger clutch system I don't see much point in doing so.
If you have any advice I would love to hear it!
Thanking you for your videos and amazing work.
hello, I just did some research on these frictons and it looks like most of them are the same except for the E clutch, that is a different thickness from 2009 and up ZF6HP26 E clutch is .063 and the 2009 and up 6R80 E clutch is .079, and on these transmissions you have to watch your clearances, i would like to confirm this by speaking with my parts rep.
As far as the slipping is concerened you probably have either a worn rear stator bushing(seals E clutch oil for 4th,5th,6th gears or a solenoid mechanically clogged, these are the 2 most common problems with this transmission and i would recommend installing new solenoids and a bushing kit. What kind of car do you have that needs a trans BMW?
Gary Ferraro thank you for coming back to me that quick. I really appreciate it. It is a 2004 BMW 730d. In-line 6 cylinder diesel. I didn't know these bushes have so much influence of how the gears would function. Make sense now why it only slips on the last gears. Do you know if Exedy or any other company would have for sale stronger friction kits specially for the 6hp26? Or is there much point of upgrading friction plates? Car is running approx 400 hp and 800nm. Apparently the 6hp26 is only rated at 650nm max. I rang Exedy themselves in England but they refuse to share any information with the end user so I cannot find what I need. Thank you for ur help.
Ciprian Manaila I would have to ask my supplier if he knows of this and get back to you. If your going to install a bushing kit, Omega machine has a great product.
Gary Ferraro thanks. To be honest i wouldn't mind buying the required parts for the rebuild from you, if you have a website that I can log onto. Of course, if you sale and ship in Europe. Let me know if these clutches are available. I will also look into the bushing kit.
Checked with my supplier today all clutches except for the E clutch are the same as the 6R80, so be careful there. I do not sell parts, sorry. I asked my supplier if he can ship to europe but he cant only the US.
Gary,
You wouldn’t happen to know the torque spec for the 2x2 6R80 output flange nut???
Bodyshot Jake not off hand but I can get it. Will be at the shop on Sunday
Gary Ferraro
Your a Boss Gary!!!
Thank you for the service you provide
Gary Ferraro any update
@@bodyshotjake7475 Sorry I completely forgot, just give me til tomorrow please
Gary Ferraro lol no problem
How the hell does a mechanical engineer thought all this through???
not sure myself
You have the reassembly
not yet, i do have a unit to do when i have time, so when i get to iti will see if i can film it, if there is an assembly video on a ZF6HP26 you can watch that very similar units
Transmission fluid is TOAST.... no wonder that thing roasted a clutch....
My 6r80 make a clunk noise going from reverse to drive, hear that is normal but, what is the reason why? Trans output shaft flange rotates back and forth in Park sounds like my rear end, there seems to be a lot of play, but besides that the transmission shifts perfect no slippage and runs strong.
If this is 4WD, as a test put the car in 4 Wheel High see if it still happens
Gary Ferraro should have specified it's a 2014 GT, done a lot of rear suspension work and Aluminum DS.
Gary Ferraro what do you recommend for maintenance and what type of trans oil works best for 6r80, thinking about adding an extra trans cooler. I like to put the trans in sport and run through the gears.
Transmission service every 30k, the recommended oil is Mercon LV, If you use a premium synthetic oil like castrol or amsoil you should be fine, make sure you use an OE filter
So does that mean the new version is the 6R100?
yes
@@GaryFerraro I see - I'm in the UK, just got one of these in with no drive and an output speed sensor failure and a couple gear 1&2 ratio DTC's I was confident was a result of the output sensor.
3.2 TDCi Ranger Wildtrak - 80k miles, never had a transmission flush or filter. With the earlier problematic TC and output speed sensor/lead frame issues that seemingly weren't warrantied under the recall as it's an import from Auz or something. I dunno. Client is being short with the history of the car and what's been messed with in the past. Oil dark brown, magnets full with fine steel filings, oil saturated with aluminium but micron sized. It was actually quite pretty in a way watching it in the sun and agitating it.
So ultimately what I concluded is that the box and/or TC that is on there isn't the box and/or TC it left the factory with. I'm only guessing this because inside the TC were needle bearing rollers from an input shaft bearing (the one inside the pump). Plus the insidious carnage they were causing but, the pump on the box had a bush? Not an empty needle roller case like I was expecting...
I'm scratching my head as to how they got there. Any ideas? They've obviously been shoved into the TC some way by the input shaft upon fitting after the original needle bearing collapsed while removing the transmission off the TC in situ.
We don't see a lot of autos over here, 8.4 million in total only. That's rising rapidly though. I've learned so much about this gearbox the last few days. Always understood almost fully the concept of operation and components but never had the guts to dive in.
@@ssss-df5qz The design is similar to the ZF6HP26, they did use a bearing instead of a bushing, maybe early models had a bushing, Never heard of a Ranger wildtrak, does Ford make that car?
@@GaryFerraro apparently so, it's sitting outside mine right now. There's heaps on google about them. Maybe it's a trim level thing?
@@GaryFerraro oh and it's bushings all through the box too. I did think it was going to be them just changing the roller for a bush but that wouldn't make sense as they were in the area where the roller would have collapsed and left the debris.
Now got a good friend with a mechatronic valve body issue. I'm a glutton for punishment.
hello gary, do you know what might cause whining noise in this transmission when driving in all gears and reverse ?
it is in my ford expedition 2012 .
Thanks
Question, is the noise always there or only when hot?
Gary Ferraro the noise is always there when the gear is engaged I tried R D 3 2 and 1, when in neutral its quite
if it helps, I just changed the fluid from dealer othrised workshop, the noise kept going the same thing.
Ok, if you have noise in the drive ranges and not in park or neutral, then the torque converter is the problem
Gary Ferraro is it serious ?
should I squeeze the life of it ? 😅
The converter is a sealed unit, but something is wrong, if its caught in time you may be able to get away with just putting a converter in, if the converter blows then you may need a trans as well, so you may want to look into this
Hi Gary , I remove transmission pan and old filter for fluid change and filter change . Old fluid was clean . Truck has 89000 miles . After assemble the pan back on. I started my truck and it would not move out of gear . The alarm code was the p0731 code .
I have 2012 4x4 ecoboost 6r80 . What could be the cause ?
Did it do this before the fluid change? is it ok now?
Gary Ferraro sorry for late response .it did it after fluid change . I used correct transmission fluid . The truck will no shift in any gear . You think it’s an electrical problem ?
@@damonmoore7922 how much fluid did you put back in, if this did not happen before must be something with the filter or not enough fluid, possible the filter may have fallen out. No reverse either?
I believe I was about 6 quarts and checked the dip stick .
I went to dealership yesterday after they perform molded lead frame recall . And they said it was good to go but inform it needs a new transmission . I asked why and all they said was internal damage . I inform how is that if you didn’t take transmission apart . The oil was clean with no metal shavings . I feel tech couldn’t find problem and just said need a new transmission .
@@damonmoore7922 Usually with the lead frame it gives a P0720 or P0715 code, car would still move but in fail safe
Any idea what might cause output flange slop on the 2X2 version?
Trans is in the car?
Gary Ferraro yes it is but can be removed pretty easily. I replaced the output flange seal along with a flat bearing race that the flange buts up to then torqued to 60ft-lb. it seemed like it was good after that but first drive it’s vibrating really bad at about 55mph. I checked my driveline and pinion angles and they are good. I have around a 1/16”-1/8” play in the flange in all directions.
@@bodyshotjake7475 You should look at your tires too, maybe rotate them see if anything changes
Gary Ferraro thanks Gary!! I looked into the tires and had them rebalanced. This transmission is in a 99 mustang with drag tires so I cannot rotate. I’m taking in the custom drive shaft to have it re-balanced as well. The wheels I have are billet aluminum and our Lug-nut centric, Not hubcentric so I have purchased hubcentric alignment rings to see if this helps. Thank you so much for your time sir I will let you know what I find out
Türkiye İstanbul video süper tankyou
Location of transmission bypass Ford Expedition 2015
Bypass check valve is located in the case, to get to it you have to pull off the valvebody
You could buy the snap ring pliers for it.......
I cant think for the moment if this trans has the eyelids in the large snap ring, i will check in the morning and get back to you
It does. I think the snap ring pliers for the Ford's is twice as much as the Chevy's. Chevy ones will work but they are still expensive
www.toolsource.com/snapring-c-194_238_246/retaining-ring-pliers-ford-t95p77001ahr-p-129741.html
chevvvy one
www.ebay.com/itm/Adapt-A-Case-The-Ringmaster-part-T-6800AC-/182480972798
Im going to check my manual tomorrow, i just finished a ZF6HP26 and these transmissions are very similar, i did not need special pliers to remove the snap ring for the center support just a big screw driver
Anyone know if the ones in ford rangers in australia are the same as the ftruck ones? Id like to buy a repair book
TT Ford ranger is a smaller truck may have a 4R55E
@@GaryFerraro im 99 percent sure its a 6r80. Is that other gearbox mention simmilar? . I have a leadframe issue in my car
Just had a look. Seems mines a 6r80. Do you know where i can buy a bool for it? Mine also has a transfer case.its a 2012 model px ranger
@@boblogIIIfan Lead frame problem, probably is a 6R80
@@GaryFerraro just had the ford dealer tell me it was a warranty recall.. altough no one told me, so now its been to many kilometers so i gotta cop it and fix it myself.
They also told me to try to catch and reuse the old oil? As doing a flush can sometimes make the clutches not work? Its done like 190 000 miles lol
Was this in a 4 wheel drive? Towing or plowing snow?
It is a 4 wheel drive truck, not for towing or plowing, just everyday driving, the owner travels alot to canada
Ok he must have never changed the fluid? I have the same trans in my car so just wondering if there are major flaws with this unit or just poor maintenance.
Actually what happened is the fluid leaked out. There is a TSB on this problem and they want you to replace the pump body and gears but all you have to replace is the front seal and pump o-ring. gary
Thank's, I hope that's an f 150 only problem.
Thats all i came across so far, keep an eye on that fluid level, being the fact that this is very similar to the ZF6HP26, there may be issues with bushing wear
What socket works on the output shaft nut?
6 point or 12 point nut?
12
Guessing 34. 32 is too small.
Just measured. It's 34
Yes, i believe it is 34
Para mí es bueno aquí en probisia a un no yengan estás tramisiones
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
Great Video
Thank You
Gary - love your stuff. Would you be able to answer a question for me? I am getting competing information regarding end play on my 2015 6R80 4x4. What specs do you set the ends to?
Sorry for the double post. It out of a 2015 F150 with the 3.5 EB if that matters
@@MichaelGentz-b9m Are you changing any hard parts,? i rarely check end play in these units, i just put back the shims that come out
@@GaryFerraroyes I changed out many of the hard parts based on your videos and some recommendations from others. Essentially, the internals are 100% new
Great video
Thank you sir
Your welcome.