Just for your information, the swallow and virgin livered units are the former Lima models that Hornby inherited when they bought them out. They decided they were better than their own so they upgraded a little and sold them instead, eventually as part of the railroad range.
Makes sense...adopting the best features of each manufacturer. However, my swallow one has the bogies themselves acting as pickups - so the front bogie picks up from one rail, and the rear bogie picks up from the other rail (of course, not the side with the traction tires). This is the same as my oldest one, the blue and yellow liveried example. Meanwhile, my Virgin one has individual pickups for each wheel (including the traction tyred ones).
Thanks! Yes I guess that would be the reason it burnt out, since the space at the front of the HST where the board would go isn't big enough for a regular resistor (unless it's one of those tiny ones). I'm surprised the instructions didn't include any mention of the resistor. Anyways, as a general rule of thumb, it's always best to ensure that there's a suitable resistor (usually 1K, but can also use a 1.5K for reduced brightness) in series with the power supply for DC model train applications. I'm not really conversant with DCC, so can't advise on that front.
@@_RandomPea No, you only need it on one side. Either way it will do its job. There's debate online on whether it should be installed on the positive or negative side, but I've got locos with lights installed in them years ago that are still working fine - with the resistor on the positive, or the negative.
Hi Ashraaq, I was interested in the wiring of the LED and Resistors on the strip board. So my question. Is the board isolated between the holes. Is it possible for a close up of the strip board rear for me to see. I have a few strip boards and found it ideal, after watching your video, to use a piece of strip board. Thanks once again for your review.
Thanks! I'll send you a photo of the strip board I use. The rows of holes are connected in a strip of copper, with isolation between the adjacent rows. So, if you were to place an LED with the positive leg in one row and the negative leg in another row, it will work when you apply power in one direction. Then, when you attach another LED in the opposite direction, that one will light up when you reverse the polarity of the power supply. It is also possible to buy a form of board where each hole is totally isolated, with only a ring of copper surrounding it, to aid soldering. This board allows you to totally make your own connections vertically, horizontally, and diagonally, with solder bridges and bridge wires, but for this application, it's a bit overkill.
Just for your information, the swallow and virgin livered units are the former Lima models that Hornby inherited when they bought them out. They decided they were better than their own so they upgraded a little and sold them instead, eventually as part of the railroad range.
Makes sense...adopting the best features of each manufacturer. However, my swallow one has the bogies themselves acting as pickups - so the front bogie picks up from one rail, and the rear bogie picks up from the other rail (of course, not the side with the traction tires). This is the same as my oldest one, the blue and yellow liveried example. Meanwhile, my Virgin one has individual pickups for each wheel (including the traction tyred ones).
Interesting review.
Thanks!
Great video mate. I bought a pre built board on ebay and found it burnt out despite following the instructions. I guess it needs a resister?
Thanks! Yes I guess that would be the reason it burnt out, since the space at the front of the HST where the board would go isn't big enough for a regular resistor (unless it's one of those tiny ones). I'm surprised the instructions didn't include any mention of the resistor. Anyways, as a general rule of thumb, it's always best to ensure that there's a suitable resistor (usually 1K, but can also use a 1.5K for reduced brightness) in series with the power supply for DC model train applications. I'm not really conversant with DCC, so can't advise on that front.
@@ashraaqwahab would the resister need to be on both positive and negative? I.e. for when the polarity is changed to run the other way?
@@_RandomPea No, you only need it on one side. Either way it will do its job. There's debate online on whether it should be installed on the positive or negative side, but I've got locos with lights installed in them years ago that are still working fine - with the resistor on the positive, or the negative.
@@ashraaqwahab thanks for the tips
Hi Ashraaq, I was interested in the wiring of the LED and Resistors on the strip board. So my question. Is the board isolated between the holes. Is it possible for a close up of the strip board rear for me to see. I have a few strip boards and found it ideal, after watching your video, to use a piece of strip board. Thanks once again for your review.
Thanks! I'll send you a photo of the strip board I use. The rows of holes are connected in a strip of copper, with isolation between the adjacent rows. So, if you were to place an LED with the positive leg in one row and the negative leg in another row, it will work when you apply power in one direction. Then, when you attach another LED in the opposite direction, that one will light up when you reverse the polarity of the power supply.
It is also possible to buy a form of board where each hole is totally isolated, with only a ring of copper surrounding it, to aid soldering. This board allows you to totally make your own connections vertically, horizontally, and diagonally, with solder bridges and bridge wires, but for this application, it's a bit overkill.
@@ashraaqwahab Thank You.