167 HP is decent for a car this weight. What makes relatively 'low' power Miata great is that on track or rally stage you can relatively easily learn effective rwd driving techniques that require respecting speed and keeping as much pendulum while entering the corner as possible, because the power will not overwhelm you too much when you hit the throttle again. In old school rallying even weaker cars were going through corners with slight drift that was not a result of power, but a result of going a 'too' fast into the corner and then throwing the car in, to use grip of all 4 wheels to the maximum and preserve as much pendulum as possible.
Nice buddy ive always liked these but my mate said he'll never speak to me again if I purchase one ! Currently driving a gr yaris cp and desperate to modify it ! What coilovers do you have on the mx5 ? Just subbed 😊
Hmmm. Did you get it dyno'd at same place when stock to see if it was a just sympathetic dyno (e.g. Stock it might have also read high ~170). Don't think I've ever seen one quoted at 194hp with just the manifold. BBR super 200 nets you about 205hp on their dyno but I think in reality it's a bit lower possibly not even breaking 200
No I didn’t actually, that’s a good point. If the opportunity presents itself to dyno the car elsewhere to see what number it makes I will report back 😃
This is really inspiring video. I have an NC2 in the same colour. No mods (yet). I want some cheapish lightweight alloys first as my wheels are shot. Any ideas for good value lighter alloys?
To be honest, lightweight and also cheap are not often two things you can achieve at the same time. But perhaps if you look for some used Enkei RPF1’s you might get what you are looking for!
Nice video. Is it the bbr remap? With this information i am thinking on buying a NC miata instead of an ND. I like both, but the ND is lot more expensive. Thanks for sharing.
It isn’t a BBR remap, it was done by a company called Performance link. I’d recommend the NC over the ND personally, I’ve had both and I have found the NC to be bigger inside, less issues (despite being older) and just generally being the better car overall. I was actually planning to do a video about this exact topic, so keep your eyes out for that 😃
Wondering if this catt-less version causes MOT failure for emissions? Considering this upgrade too, but from the BBR site, mentions that it will cause emissions MOT failure and recommends the catted version for £250 more
For me, my car passed. I got it quite hot before going which may have helped but as BBRs site suggests - there’s no guarantee it will pass. There is still a centre cat so it isn’t a total decat
Did the manifold make the car much louder, mine is my daily and looking to change the manifold but dont won't it to be too loud. What was the xost of the remap, looked at racing beat one but have to move bottom manifold sensor into middle pipe after after cat. Cheers
Only a tiny bit louder, it was more a tonal change for the better. I’ve done about 1500 miles since fitting the manifold and there are no drone issues and the car sounds noticeably more fruity
The std 0-60 time is wrong the earlier NC did 7.9, the facelift that revs higher has a std book time of 7.6. Yours looks like a facelift. Now get a lightweight flywheel and a shorter rear diff in there, that’s the biggest difference after what you’ve done to your car you could do.
The only time I’ve ever lamented being 6’2” is when I have to get into/a situation concerns a Miata. I understand it’s a perfectly built sports car with adequate power and they’re perfectly balanced (as all things should be 🔪). But I just don’t fit into them. Every time I pull one into our install bay, I have to cram myself into the driver’s seat and it’s an act of congress to get my right knee tucked under the steering wheel. Once I’m in, it’s… “ok” but not quite comfortable. And I know if I ever tried to track one, my helmet would be taller than the convertible top. Which is a no go. It’s honestly the only reason I’m considering a GR86 (with a rear seat delete) as my next purchase as opposed to an MX-5. First world problems, I guess?! 🤷♂️ 😭
Haha yea I know the struggle. When I had my ND the space issue was far worse. I have been able to get comfy in the NC and especially with an aftermarket seat - I am able to wear a helmet with the roof up. So I wouldn’t write off the NC for long bois
Ps if you haven’t done it yet I I recently changed to the competition fly wheel 5.8kg if my memory serves. Also there 8 ceramic puck clutch. If anyone is worried about it being too grabby it’s not. It’s still progressive enough to slip yes stalling is a pain till you retrain your footwork. But boy it’s a different car also if you have plans for GCFab hoop get Phil to fit it. His work is amazing looks so oem. I got his info from petrolpoodle review.
@@tjscotton yea I agree best time for it I got Phill Brough to do mine and my gear box when he was installing my GCFab hoop. But honestly it’s a worth wile upgrade and isn’t ON/off set up still manageable in slow moving traffic of London.
Haha yea for sure - it isn’t fast. But it goes some way to fix the cars biggest issue. I’m considering a K20 turbo in the future - it’s much cheaper to get 300-400 with that set up
Ps I appreciate putting out the cheaper alternatives than BBR. As not every one has spare cash and we all know they do add a decent mark up. But I do need to point out a few things 1 de catting never a good idea. Because the way things are going one day apart of the MOT test will be check all CAts are in place. Buy a catted one. Also the extra £1000 as you put it gets you the little sticker and race rom oh and selectable maps. Not worth it by any measure but flat floor shit blip down have been very useful on track. Not used the launch control but it’s not like your off the line starting.
Passed with no issues. Suggest getting the car warm before the test, though. Remember this only removes the pre-cat in the manifold, the middle catalyst is still in place
I had the bbr 200 package on my 25th Anni, really happy with it it puts out 205 at the fly which is circa 177 at the wheels, btw, in assuming your 194 is at the fly?
It's all guestimated at the fly, because they are measured on a chassis dynos. If you want an acurate flywheel figure, take the engine out and take it to a proper dyno.
Jack you're a natural in front of the camera. Really nice video and good to see a nice increase in performance on the MX-5.
167 HP is decent for a car this weight. What makes relatively 'low' power Miata great is that on track or rally stage you can relatively easily learn effective rwd driving techniques that require respecting speed and keeping as much pendulum while entering the corner as possible, because the power will not overwhelm you too much when you hit the throttle again. In old school rallying even weaker cars were going through corners with slight drift that was not a result of power, but a result of going a 'too' fast into the corner and then throwing the car in, to use grip of all 4 wheels to the maximum and preserve as much pendulum as possible.
Fab video mate! Car sounds like a great little package. Can't wait to see what's next (cough, ITBs, cough).
Only makes 160 hp😂😂😂 better than 116hp if the na even makes that!
😂 at least the NA has pop-ups
Woah those are really nice numbers! Good job
Have you got a mate that does mot’s or will you change it back at mot time?
Nice little video, subscribed to see what's next for your NC
Good vid thanks, what size rims u got on that & the et pls mate ?
Love it! Can’t believe the difference. Mooooore
Hi Jack love the videos! Where did you get that excellent additional speedo please? Cheers
Great results! Wish I knew that when I had mine…
Nice buddy ive always liked these but my mate said he'll never speak to me again if I purchase one ! Currently driving a gr yaris cp and desperate to modify it ! What coilovers do you have on the mx5 ? Just subbed 😊
Hmmm. Did you get it dyno'd at same place when stock to see if it was a just sympathetic dyno (e.g. Stock it might have also read high ~170). Don't think I've ever seen one quoted at 194hp with just the manifold. BBR super 200 nets you about 205hp on their dyno but I think in reality it's a bit lower possibly not even breaking 200
No I didn’t actually, that’s a good point. If the opportunity presents itself to dyno the car elsewhere to see what number it makes I will report back 😃
Performance link woohoo 🥳
Is that measuring GPS speed or wheel speed ?
Will this pass an MOT
Decatted manifolds are available elsewhere too. And those vendors might provide some after sales service.
This is really inspiring video. I have an NC2 in the same colour. No mods (yet). I want some cheapish lightweight alloys first as my wheels are shot. Any ideas for good value lighter alloys?
To be honest, lightweight and also cheap are not often two things you can achieve at the same time. But perhaps if you look for some used Enkei RPF1’s you might get what you are looking for!
Nice video. Is it the bbr remap? With this information i am thinking on buying a NC miata instead of an ND. I like both, but the ND is lot more expensive. Thanks for sharing.
It isn’t a BBR remap, it was done by a company called Performance link.
I’d recommend the NC over the ND personally, I’ve had both and I have found the NC to be bigger inside, less issues (despite being older) and just generally being the better car overall.
I was actually planning to do a video about this exact topic, so keep your eyes out for that 😃
Love this!
Maybe I could do this!
Wondering if this catt-less version causes MOT failure for emissions? Considering this upgrade too, but from the BBR site, mentions that it will cause emissions MOT failure and recommends the catted version for £250 more
For me, my car passed. I got it quite hot before going which may have helped but as BBRs site suggests - there’s no guarantee it will pass. There is still a centre cat so it isn’t a total decat
Did the manifold make the car much louder, mine is my daily and looking to change the manifold but dont won't it to be too loud.
What was the xost of the remap, looked at racing beat one but have to move bottom manifold sensor into middle pipe after after cat. Cheers
Only a tiny bit louder, it was more a tonal change for the better. I’ve done about 1500 miles since fitting the manifold and there are no drone issues and the car sounds noticeably more fruity
Nice video, man 👌
The std 0-60 time is wrong the earlier NC did 7.9, the facelift that revs higher has a std book time of 7.6. Yours looks like a facelift.
Now get a lightweight flywheel and a shorter rear diff in there, that’s the biggest difference after what you’ve done to your car you could do.
get the lightest flywheel u can get.. its easy best the performance upgrade
How tall are you? Do you fit the car relatively well?
6ft 1 ish
A tri-Y longtube works better with the smaller displacement engine.
The only time I’ve ever lamented being 6’2” is when I have to get into/a situation concerns a Miata. I understand it’s a perfectly built sports car with adequate power and they’re perfectly balanced (as all things should be 🔪). But I just don’t fit into them. Every time I pull one into our install bay, I have to cram myself into the driver’s seat and it’s an act of congress to get my right knee tucked under the steering wheel. Once I’m in, it’s… “ok” but not quite comfortable. And I know if I ever tried to track one, my helmet would be taller than the convertible top. Which is a no go. It’s honestly the only reason I’m considering a GR86 (with a rear seat delete) as my next purchase as opposed to an MX-5. First world problems, I guess?! 🤷♂️ 😭
Haha yea I know the struggle. When I had my ND the space issue was far worse. I have been able to get comfy in the NC and especially with an aftermarket seat - I am able to wear a helmet with the roof up. So I wouldn’t write off the NC for long bois
i’m 6’4” and fit well in my NC2 even WITH a helmet because i have put seat lowering brackets in to my driver seat
cobalt dual-tip muffler from MossMiata!!
Ps if you haven’t done it yet I I recently changed to the competition fly wheel 5.8kg if my memory serves. Also there 8 ceramic puck clutch.
If anyone is worried about it being too grabby it’s not. It’s still progressive enough to slip yes stalling is a pain till you retrain your footwork.
But boy it’s a different car also if you have plans for GCFab hoop get Phil to fit it. His work is amazing looks so oem. I got his info from petrolpoodle review.
A lightened flywheel is certainly on the menu when the clutch eventually needs replacing
@@tjscotton yea I agree best time for it I got Phill Brough to do mine and my gear box when he was installing my GCFab hoop. But honestly it’s a worth wile upgrade and isn’t ON/off set up still manageable in slow moving traffic of London.
Dude what the hell you kept saying how cheap it was without saying the cost
Roughly a grand all in for the manifold and the remap
@@tjscotton to remap did you have to get an aftermarket ECU or a piggyback ECU? I assume they don't remap the stock ECU do they?
@@gavinkitto4774 Yeah just a remap of the stock ECU. I got mine done at Performance link, but BBR also offer the remap for this mod
lol, dont be fooled, its still slow. I have a turbo 2.5l with 300 WHP ( ~350 BHP) and still find myself wanting more.
Haha yea for sure - it isn’t fast. But it goes some way to fix the cars biggest issue. I’m considering a K20 turbo in the future - it’s much cheaper to get 300-400 with that set up
Ps I appreciate putting out the cheaper alternatives than BBR. As not every one has spare cash and we all know they do add a decent mark up.
But I do need to point out a few things 1 de catting never a good idea. Because the way things are going one day apart of the MOT test will be check all CAts are in place. Buy a catted one.
Also the extra £1000 as you put it gets you the little sticker and race rom oh and selectable maps. Not worth it by any measure but flat floor shit blip down have been very useful on track. Not used the launch control but it’s not like your off the line starting.
Shame about the upcoming MOT failure.
Passed with no issues. Suggest getting the car warm before the test, though. Remember this only removes the pre-cat in the manifold, the middle catalyst is still in place
Nope
This car was too heavy in my opinion.
I had the bbr 200 package on my 25th Anni, really happy with it it puts out 205 at the fly which is circa 177 at the wheels, btw, in assuming your 194 is at the fly?
It's all guestimated at the fly, because they are measured on a chassis dynos. If you want an acurate flywheel figure, take the engine out and take it to a proper dyno.