This was either Miho's peak versus the beginning of Janja's ascension, with the boulders at a hard difficulty, or they were both at their peaks and the boulders were at an easy difficulty, and Janja had no need to use her final form. The gap between them now is huge. Akiyo's longevity was amazing; 10 years older and she could still compete with the best. Without Janja, Akiyo and Miho would have a lot more wins.
In general the setting needs to get harder. Also, can we please see at least one old school style power problem now and then? Excited to see Jernej doing so well as he has been the lone big/tall guy in both men's finals and has benefited from some of the fairest tall guy sets I have ever seen in the finals in over 15 years of watching IFSC bouldering comps. Jernej clearly had the upper with his height on problems 1,3 and 4. I thought the jump start on 4 was too parkour. What's the story with Cosey? Is she coming off an injury or otherwise hurt?
Joseph Crotty you must have missed the near constant references to Shauna's recent recovery from a finger injury. As for tall guys in the last 15 yrs, why do you not count Jan Hojer?
Thanks for the clue about Shauna, I didn't pay attention to the commentator ramblings much if at all. Yes, Jan Hojer is one of the few successful big men of the last ten years. Kokuro Fuji is no small man either. My point was that the final sets where out of sorts with what we have seen historically which are typically compact and not favorable to bigger climbers. I think we see more typical short person sets when things move to Asia in the next two comps.
Joseph Crotty the commentator rambling has gotten markedly better in the last year. I only rarely feel like throwing things at the screen these days. Interesting you say that, since shorter climbers like Sean McColl and Rustam Gelmanov, and Jakob Schubert have all struggled in the last year.
Rathika Ramadoss, I don't really agree your example climbers. Go check out Sean's Instagram posts where he all but admits he forgot how to climb modern volume style sets last year. I think we'll see Sean in a final or two this year. Also, Sean is not "young" by WC standards any more. I don't know what's up with Rustam, maybe he retired or can't get adequate funding? Jakob just made the Meiringen final last weekend! Jakob's focus is lead not bouldering and even as such I think at 5′ 8″ he is average height.
Joseph Crotty That's fair, I'm just thinking back to 2015 when all three guys were solid finals contenders. Tomoa is also on the short side and seems to do fine either way. I guess I'm surprised you think the setters are creating height dependent sets at this elite level. I don't argue specific problems are height dependent, but usually there is another problem in the set that balances it out. Meh. Interesting discussion.
As russian speaking climber I was surprised and ashamed to hear comments of russian MC , talking about how hot female climbers are and movking male climbers last names. Where did they found this guy?
as a russian, I've never heard proper commentating from russian commentators on climbing comps. It seems like they just doesn't understand what they 're talking about because of being too far and completely unfamiliar with climbing sport. Tacking shame :)
On mens 3 why did they not mention how good his one handed hold on that boulder was i thought it was impressive. It was his jump on the first move 3rd attempt i believe and he held it with 1 hand.
I feel like this is legitimate question. It seems terribly inconsistent with each competition. I wouldn't feel like it is that hard to get the graphic on screen to mirror the clock being used. But, whatever, what do I know? Maybe it is really hard with different equipment being used at each venue.
IKR how the fuck can they not get it right? I could do a perfect job with a smart phone or a digital wrist watch. Yet these guys can't get it right. How is this possible? Stop buying weird fancy "competition" clocks and use a stop watch or something for god's sake.
IFSC rules state that the clock has to be visible for the competitors, so they can't use a stopwatch or randomly switch to a cell phone clock etc. Which still doesn't answer the main question though: why is the clock so crap :D
That's dumb just have a live video feed of the stopwatch or whatever kind of clock. Or have a big one. There are actually so many easy ways to solve this problem... So like you said how have they failed?
I love dynos, both watching them and doing them. But a dyno on every boulder in a world cup? I think that is a bit too much. When I go to my climbing gym, just 5% or maybe 10% or so of boulders set there have a full dyno. I think this just isn't representative of "normal" bouldering anymore. Wouldn't it be more fair tot the climbers to do a max of 2 dyno problems per world cup or so? For example you see Alexey struggle this cup on homeground, but dynos really aren't his strong point so that kinda sucks for him.
Maybe obvious thing if you exactly know the rules, but M4 got me thinking - can you try this first dyno move without wasting tries, if you don't step both feet on black foothold? I know that if you won't start using all marked holds, you will be told by refs to retry, but does it count as a attempt?
It counts as an attempt once both feet come off the ground. So even if you're trying to get into the starting position, if your foot comes off the ground even a cm and then you fall off or step back down, it's still an attempt. So if you do the dyno without a proper start it still counts as an attempt
Ties in the finals are determined on countback to the semifinals. They were even in attempts and tops, so the tie was broken by Janja having placed higher in the semis than Miho did. Kind of a boring way to settle a tie and determine a winner, imo. I'd like to see a head-to-head climb or something
what do you mean exactly? ecause they only have 4min to reach the top. After that, no matter how far you progressed on the boulder, you're out. Until 2 years ago, there was the 4min plus (4+ minutes) rule, so that after the time was up, the climber could finish the boulder. On hard boulders many climbers have waited untill only 5sec remaining to get enough rest, then jump on the boulder and climb it without stress or the clock in mind. Many still prefer it that way, because this is not speedclimbing. . Why the clock doesn't stop when a climber tops? Because the clock runs down before the next climber comes out. That way, all climbers have the same amount of time for rest between the boulders. Surely, if a climber flashes a boulder in 30sec, the audience has to wait 3:30min before the next climber comes out. But it is fair for every climber, and that's how it should be.
Men's boulders werent the greatest. Men's 4 was good though. Men's 1 looked like a gym boulder and not really like a comp set. I am sure it's hard to be a setter for these caliber of athletes, hopefully in the next few weeks they will figure out the perfect level they need to set.
epincion I don't think you understand, if you watch the old competitions there was the 4 mins + rules, and no, not every boulder got topped. It was very competitive and more enjoyable to watch because you don't see a great attempt get cut short. This current ruleset is one big blue balls session.
Seriously? Charlie has used this phrase to describe so many of the individual climber's weaknesses. Maybe you should watch more World Cups instead of being a triggered SJW.
its just not cool, he should know and learn words have different meaning for different people, like you never say N words to black people no matter it has other meanings.
I mean I totally understand, and I know he is not mean to it may be, not blaming or anything but it just feels little uncomfortable whenever an Asian or Chinese looking people hearing that word, maybe he could be used another word instead when he's climbing, even we know he's Korean. i mean its just little odd.
Booo. Thumbs down. They should've talk to that lady. This is why i think many climbers are self entitled and stuck up. Scrubs. Like there opinions are greater rhan others
I think it's more for security reasons and a matter of what is appropriate to do in such a situation... They don't know who she is, she might not know that they're live, she might do inappropriate things live, etc. It might depend on one's culture, but to me, just barging in their booth like that is super impolite and inappropriate in and of itself.
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/w7Wf0h1Q8a4/mqdefault.jpg)
Rubtsov - Kruder - Vezonik - Narasaki - Moroni - Chon
M1 0:20:00 - 0:24:35 - 0:27:15 - 0:30:35 - 0:34:25 - 0:38:55
M2 0:44:40 - 0:46:30 - 0:51:00 - 0:53:35 - 0:55:20 - 0:59:10
M3 1:01:30 - 1:04:40 - 1:06:40 - 1:11:10 - 1:13:30 - 1:15:30
M4 1:18:40 - 1:23:15 - 1:25:35 - 1:27:55 - 1:30:15 - 1:34:50
Coxsey - Klingler - Nonaka - Noguchi - Gibert - Garnbret
W1 1:49:15 - 1:53:45 - 1:57:05 - 2:01:25 - 2:06:10 - 2:10:45
W2 2:15:15 - 2:19:30 - 2:24:15 - 2:26:50 - 2:30:25 - 2:34:50
W3 2:38:15 - 2:42:30 - 2:44:45 - 2:46:50 - 2:48:50 - 2:50:50
W4 2:53:40 - 2:57:50 - 3:02:25 - 3:04:25 - 3:07:05 - 3:08:50
W3 time for Janja is incorrect
Bless you sir
You're right, thx.
Klettermafia thanks so much!
u're awesome
The older you get, the better you used to be. - Charlie Boscoe
love this guy :D
Video intros for the climbers are dope.
it blows my mind how they can never get the clock to work proper
Congrats on the spotless stream this time !
Climbing starts at 19:59
Tomoa, you monster.
Great stream! Thanks so much #IFSC!
I love how watching this is making my hands and feet feel sweaty (:
Jongwon Chon skipping two holds in M2. Wow.
This was either Miho's peak versus the beginning of Janja's ascension, with the boulders at a hard difficulty, or they were both at their peaks and the boulders were at an easy difficulty, and Janja had no need to use her final form. The gap between them now is huge. Akiyo's longevity was amazing; 10 years older and she could still compete with the best. Without Janja, Akiyo and Miho would have a lot more wins.
The parkouldering is strong in this one.
In general the setting needs to get harder. Also, can we please see at least one old school style power problem now and then?
Excited to see Jernej doing so well as he has been the lone big/tall guy in both men's finals and has benefited from some of the fairest tall guy sets I have ever seen in the finals in over 15 years of watching IFSC bouldering comps. Jernej clearly had the upper with his height on problems 1,3 and 4. I thought the jump start on 4 was too parkour.
What's the story with Cosey? Is she coming off an injury or otherwise hurt?
Joseph Crotty you must have missed the near constant references to Shauna's recent recovery from a finger injury. As for tall guys in the last 15 yrs, why do you not count Jan Hojer?
Thanks for the clue about Shauna, I didn't pay attention to the commentator ramblings much if at all.
Yes, Jan Hojer is one of the few successful big men of the last ten years. Kokuro Fuji is no small man either. My point was that the final sets where out of sorts with what we have seen historically which are typically compact and not favorable to bigger climbers. I think we see more typical short person sets when things move to Asia in the next two comps.
Joseph Crotty the commentator rambling has gotten markedly better in the last year. I only rarely feel like throwing things at the screen these days.
Interesting you say that, since shorter climbers like Sean McColl and Rustam Gelmanov, and Jakob Schubert have all struggled in the last year.
Rathika Ramadoss, I don't really agree your example climbers. Go check out Sean's Instagram posts where he all but admits he forgot how to climb modern volume style sets last year. I think we'll see Sean in a final or two this year. Also, Sean is not "young" by WC standards any more. I don't know what's up with Rustam, maybe he retired or can't get adequate funding? Jakob just made the Meiringen final last weekend! Jakob's focus is lead not bouldering and even as such I think at 5′ 8″ he is average height.
Joseph Crotty That's fair, I'm just thinking back to 2015 when all three guys were solid finals contenders. Tomoa is also on the short side and seems to do fine either way. I guess I'm surprised you think the setters are creating height dependent sets at this elite level. I don't argue specific problems are height dependent, but usually there is another problem in the set that balances it out. Meh. Interesting discussion.
Bravo Grega!
weird that the clock clicks to X:60 for half a sec in between minutes
It also reads e.g. 2:3 instead of 2:03.
I think it's IFSC rules that the clock must exhibit clear errors for it to be a valid world cup.
Made in Russia.
Clock ticks you in Russia. It ain't no fucka'roun shit
Enjoyed this commentator duo!
Who ever is directing in the control room, great job! 2:31:10
As russian speaking climber I was surprised and ashamed to hear comments of russian MC , talking about how hot female climbers are and movking male climbers last names. Where did they found this guy?
miriamshv it's a Russian what do you expect XD
I was there. Believe me, a lot of people were unhappy with his comments 🤦♂️
as a russian, I've never heard proper commentating from russian commentators on climbing comps. It seems like they just doesn't understand what they 're talking about because of being too far and completely unfamiliar with climbing sport. Tacking shame :)
ну гаркнул бы на него(я правда чет не гаркнул)
А что конкретно случилось?
On mens 3 why did they not mention how good his one handed hold on that boulder was i thought it was impressive. It was his jump on the first move 3rd attempt i believe and he held it with 1 hand.
why are there almost everytime problems with the clock? :D
This really boggles the mind, eh? Use a normal clock for god's sake.
Janja❤
betas are so outdated - i'm pretty sure janja uses a flash drive
1:54:27 Итак, Швейцария: отличный шоколад, отличные горы, отличные скалолазки!
2:35:50 that hand switch is incredibly amazing!
Never saw such a terrible lighting on the stage and such intrusive cameramen 😱
What's the problem with the clock? It's just a clock
I feel like this is legitimate question. It seems terribly inconsistent with each competition. I wouldn't feel like it is that hard to get the graphic on screen to mirror the clock being used. But, whatever, what do I know? Maybe it is really hard with different equipment being used at each venue.
IKR how the fuck can they not get it right? I could do a perfect job with a smart phone or a digital wrist watch. Yet these guys can't get it right. How is this possible? Stop buying weird fancy "competition" clocks and use a stop watch or something for god's sake.
IFSC rules state that the clock has to be visible for the competitors, so they can't use a stopwatch or randomly switch to a cell phone clock etc. Which still doesn't answer the main question though: why is the clock so crap :D
That's dumb just have a live video feed of the stopwatch or whatever kind of clock. Or have a big one. There are actually so many easy ways to solve this problem... So like you said how have they failed?
"it will be what it will be" - that's my motto
the laugh of the one commentator is soo cute ;'D
I love dynos, both watching them and doing them. But a dyno on every boulder in a world cup? I think that is a bit too much. When I go to my climbing gym, just 5% or maybe 10% or so of boulders set there have a full dyno. I think this just isn't representative of "normal" bouldering anymore. Wouldn't it be more fair tot the climbers to do a max of 2 dyno problems per world cup or so? For example you see Alexey struggle this cup on homeground, but dynos really aren't his strong point so that kinda sucks for him.
Maybe obvious thing if you exactly know the rules, but M4 got me thinking - can you try this first dyno move without wasting tries, if you don't step both feet on black foothold? I know that if you won't start using all marked holds, you will be told by refs to retry, but does it count as a attempt?
It counts as an attempt once both feet come off the ground. So even if you're trying to get into the starting position, if your foot comes off the ground even a cm and then you fall off or step back down, it's still an attempt. So if you do the dyno without a proper start it still counts as an attempt
I think that's what you were asking haha
yes, thank you :). Those foot off ground was missing piece in my understanding of rules
Also touching any hold other than the starting holds counts as an attempt.
Could someone explain, please, why Garnbret took the first place, having the same score as Nonaka?
Tie broken by semifinal results
Ties in the finals are determined on countback to the semifinals. They were even in attempts and tops, so the tie was broken by Janja having placed higher in the semis than Miho did. Kind of a boring way to settle a tie and determine a winner, imo. I'd like to see a head-to-head climb or something
thanks
why exaclty wins janja in this competition
miho got the same score
is it the time which is deciding in these ties?
a tie is broken by countback to semifinals, where janja placed higher than miho. so janja wins.
I love fanny gilbert
Skip to 20:00
The Mikrofon from the Woman looks like the german Television ARD ? !
Wy are the clocks seconds going while climbers made the top?
what do you mean exactly? ecause they only have 4min to reach the top. After that, no matter how far you progressed on the boulder, you're out.
Until 2 years ago, there was the 4min plus (4+ minutes) rule, so that after the time was up, the climber could finish the boulder. On hard boulders many climbers have waited untill only 5sec remaining to get enough rest, then jump on the boulder and climb it without stress or the clock in mind. Many still prefer it that way, because this is not speedclimbing.
.
Why the clock doesn't stop when a climber tops? Because the clock runs down before the next climber comes out. That way, all climbers have the same amount of time for rest between the boulders. Surely, if a climber flashes a boulder in 30sec, the audience has to wait 3:30min before the next climber comes out. But it is fair for every climber, and that's how it should be.
Anyone know who makes the rails on W1 (at two hours in)? Thanks!
Men's boulders werent the greatest. Men's 4 was good though. Men's 1 looked like a gym boulder and not really like a comp set. I am sure it's hard to be a setter for these caliber of athletes, hopefully in the next few weeks they will figure out the perfect level they need to set.
. janja💪👏😍
I want charlie boscoe back.
Rubtsov would have topped boulder 1 if the 4 minute + rule was still in effect...
agree
But its not in effect. They would all have topped every boulder if there was a take as long as you like rule.
True but he would have been hosed by the number of attempts.
epincion I don't think you understand, if you watch the old competitions there was the 4 mins + rules, and no, not every boulder got topped. It was very competitive and more enjoyable to watch because you don't see a great attempt get cut short. This current ruleset is one big blue balls session.
i wanna see tomoa narasaki crush everything in american ninja warrior
womens this and last week seem set a bit too easy but mens were set just right
Too easy too I think, too many tops.
Why don't they just build a parkour course and a bunch of bars to dyno from lol. This is not even climbing in my eyes sometimes, so strange boulders
they have only onnneeee clock for all words cup😭wtf
Who would of thought, put 4 dynamic boulders in and tomoa wins xD
2:36:00
SIXTH, sixth place, not sikth!! Am I missing some inside joke or what?
Thank you though, enjoyed the video and the rest of the words that were spoken!
was miho's and janja's score the same? if so, how come janja got gold and miho got silver?
Janja ranked higher in the semifinal.
oh! i see! thanks!
Oh! I see! thanks!
The commentary is killing me. Lol. Seems I have a dirty mind. "2 fingers in that tiny hole"... Help!
楢崎すげえな
Shauna is beast
If they keep putting that many big jumps on tracks, they're looking for an increasing number of shoulder injuries.
720p, disliked
2 times 4 tops in 7 the boulders are too easy this season it's no fun watching.
The routesetting has been very inconsistent.
1:34:36 can’t believe he said that...
Chill, It wasn't offensive; hes not Chinese and its an idiom used to describe that situation. Stop making mountains out of mole hills
Seriously? Charlie has used this phrase to describe so many of the individual climber's weaknesses. Maybe you should watch more World Cups instead of being a triggered SJW.
its just not cool, he should know and learn words have different meaning for different people, like you never say N words to black people no matter it has other meanings.
Yachao Ren yeah....the thing is the n word definitely has no other meanings. At. All.
I mean I totally understand, and I know he is not mean to it may be, not blaming or anything but it just feels little uncomfortable whenever an Asian or Chinese looking people hearing that word, maybe he could be used another word instead when he's climbing, even we know he's Korean. i mean its just little odd.
1:34:41 wow that's racist as fuck. What the hell
A "chink" in his armor. I thought it was a slur at first too. Lol
Booo. Thumbs down. They should've talk to that lady. This is why i think many climbers are self entitled and stuck up. Scrubs. Like there opinions are greater rhan others
I think it's more for security reasons and a matter of what is appropriate to do in such a situation... They don't know who she is, she might not know that they're live, she might do inappropriate things live, etc. It might depend on one's culture, but to me, just barging in their booth like that is super impolite and inappropriate in and of itself.