Looks like a rebuild to me regardless. Tear it down. Document every nut and bolt. You might get away with just a hone on the cylinders. Do all bearing and seals considering the age and how long it’s sat. Inspect the entire fuel system considering what you found in the the tanks. Polishing the crank might be all that’s needed for that portion as well. I can’t get over how clean it is under the valve cover.
I was just about to say the same thing. Hone, rings, bearings, seals and cleaning the valves. That is not a major disaster by any means Propably quite inexpensive (nothing is cheap with a F) and relatively easy. +After that the engine doesn't need need to be opened ever again (unless something goes terribly wrong).
@@andrefecteau Well I find working on low-tech engines relaxing tbh. 😄 Hard? No. Expensive? No. (Compared to the fact it is a 300000€ car once done correctly) Time consuming? Yes, very...
Take the fuel level sending unit out from the top of the tank and you should have a large enough opening to clean the tank and remove the broken filter.
Gunk carburetor parts cleaner comes in a gallon can! Dump in -follow directions- slosh around....good to go....tanks should be aluminum....so no tank sealing(unless there’s a leak-then use por15 tanks sealer)...your like a young Ed China!! (With nicer hair!!-just kidding Ed!!)
First thing I thought of, and a no brainer, but I assumed the filter was trapped in some sort of baffled area that wouldn't allow it to be accessed through the sender hole, since it seemed so obvious to use that method.
It’s been mentioned a couple times but I wouldn’t be relying on a compression or leak test on an engine that hasn’t run in years, rings will need reseating for sure.
Rings will become stuck and not seal correctly over time. I’m not saying running it would bring them back but it’s not uncommon for engine that have sat to gain compression again.
@@davog1946 Its correct. Valve(s) was open for this cilinder 12 years and accumulated corrosion on valve seats and rings. With a running engine this can resolve itself in short time.
Engines seal up if they are low milage. Looking in the cam cover that engine is spotless like brand new. With some carbon remover ran through the cylinders it will come right back without removing the internal parts or the heads
You work bloody hard. You dont take short cuts and you obviously have acquired a lot of experience through doing things yourself. I for one am very impressed and don't need to wish you luck because bad luck is no impediment to you. You just bite the bullet and graft harder. Despite that I wish you success in all you do.
Use a "flexible parts claw" to secure the filter from moving around internal baffling. Let gravity be your friend and rotate the tank to bring the filter to the extraction hole. Use long needle nose or stout hemostats to pull it through. -I always used radiator repair shops to boil out and use like a POR coating to seal a new.
No need for a POR liner. It’s aluminium. But the usual caustic clean is not possible (it eats aluminium). Might be possible to swab it out via the outlet hole with phone cam.
It might sound like a bit "much", but to clean out the fuel tanks and remove the filters: Completely flush the tanks with water to remove all traces of fuel. Using your bore scope, find a section where you can use a cut off wheel to cut out a perhaps 15cm by 15cm inspection panel on the side of the tank without damaging anything inside. That will give you access to remove the filters and also thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Once the tank is clean, simply weld in a fresh section of aluminum, grind down the welds, and pressure test the tank. Bit of work but will leave the tank as good as new and will be invisible if done properly.
Before I move anything in the engine. I like to put a little bit of oil in each cylinder on an engine that has been sitting a long time. The reason is the oil rings go dry when it's been sitting. That will help with compression.
I found this gem of a channel a little while ago and since then I'm binge watching. But.... I'm sure I speak for all of your subscribers and id love to see more about the man behind the camera, I'd love to know how you got into Ferraris in the first place and how you developed your knowledge and things about you etc etc. Much love from a Ratarossa fan.
I saw someone comment on split crankcases. I've done a lot of those rebuilding Corvair engines. I only learned the trick on the last few rebuilds. When putting the sides back together, tighten the fasteners just a bit and sneak up on the correct torque while bashing the whole lot with a big rubber mallet. This will prevent any slight misalignment that might cause excess crank friction. And those who say you need a compete engine tear down and rebuild are absolutely correct. At this level corner cutting is, or shouldn't be on. Also ignore the people who encourage modding the engine, don't even think about it. The car's value as a classic will tank. -dave
Hey Scott, I started watching you when you were in the hundreds and not surprised to see you in the magazine. Surprised you don't have more subscribers!
Congrats on 100k! As an Italian and Ferrari lover I truly appreciate your vids! Love seeing the cars I had on my posters as a kid being taken care of with so much love ❤ Respect n thank you🙏🏼🙌🏼
The rings must be stuck/gummed. There is a good chance that once the motor runs and gets some heat in it they will free up. However the last thing you want to do is get it all back together and find out that’s not the case. In a normal motor I would say drop the pan and pull that one piston, but I think (I’m not 100% sure) that’s a split case motor which is an entirely different animal. So I would probably let her soak with some kerosene or diesel in the cyl... then take a blow torch to that cyl and try to get some heat in her. Then re test..... I’m honestly not sure what else can be done without splitting the case.
I have had good success with marvel mystery oil, if it is not a stuck ring, sometimes the walls dry out so much that all you need to do is squirt a bit of motor oil down the sparkplug hole and rotate the engine. But this was before we had bore scopes to look into the engine
Thank you for taking the time to restore this car. It is amazing to me that someone would leave such a rare and valuable car out in the weather to rot. It is almost unbelievable.
I inherited a '64 Chrysler with a gummed fuel tank. Every place wanted a small fortune for another, with no warranty on it, if it would even fit!! Car sat for over 30 years!!! I bought a can of laquer thinner and used about a quart of it in there, swished it around then let it sit for about 8 hours. When I poured it out, it was VERY nasty. Threw in another pint or so, swished THAT around then pressure-washed it the best I could. Let it dry for almost 2 days and it looked like NEW inside. Try it, it works!!!!! Good luck with this beauty!
Scott there are some great recommendations here in the comments. I can't add anything except my congratulations on the 100K button mate. Stay safe and all the best. I love these videos. 👍👍
I see a lot of people saying "stuck rings"... if that were the case they'd be losing air through the crankcase, not past the valves. Being able to spin the follower/shim proves nothing about having a stuck valve. My bet is either a stuck valve, valves that were open and have a rust knob on them, or a burnt valve.
@@Ratarossa Another suggestion I'd make. We had a 288 GTO in the shop that had sat a lot, and the aluminum pipes that go through the tunnel rotted through (multiple tiny pinholes). So what you'd get was a small bit of drainage out of that tunnel. The engine has to be out to get to them (and if the BBi is anything like the 288 they're difficult to remove anyway), so I'd pull them and have a look. Might be able to inspect them on the inside first with the borescope since they rot from the inside out. We had replacements made from stainless steel. Wasn't inexpensive but they wouldn't be a problem again.
With the general lack of abuse and original honing marks still on cylinder wall id guess the motor is generally ok. Lack of leackdown pressure im guessing is dirty valve seats. Or maybe sticky rings on that piston. Should be all good with some cleaning and a new head gasket.
@@markscully2342 just the guts to take on rebuilding a engine like that himself is what I meant, I've got a few cars that I work on, & a few more that I don't, Rj
I really like your channel! Keep it up! Fixing a Ferrari in his tiny home garage is awesome to follow! This car is great. I cannot believe someone let it sat for more than a decade. From Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
I look forward to your videos, watch them on Sunday while I cook a nice roast!! I say it every time but its an inspiration for me to keep on going with my own restoration!!
A dingle-ball hone of the top of that cylinder will sort that out, but I'd wager it's a stuck ring that's the issue. Put some marvel mystery or if you can't find any, some ATF into 12 and let it soak. If it drains away, you've got a stuck or broken ring.
Yes, I came here to tell him to soak the cylinder. Rotate it around until it’s as low abs possible and both valves are shut. Then fill it to the rim through the spark plug hole with Marvel or WD40. Let it sit for a couple days. Then crank over to remove the fluid (most will run right out the exhaust)
@Ratarossa Just because the tappets are spinning freely, does not mean the valve itself isn't hanging up or has too much carbon on the seat to seal correctly. You're this far into it now, it's not much more work to pull the cams and the head to inspect things. Also, would've been worth putting a tablespoon or two of oil in the cylinder, turning it over, and then checking the leakdown again. Sometimes that can seal up the old rings where air was escaping and narrow down the problem. Although you'd want an engine stand so you can get the piston facing right way up. Damn boxer engines. Good luck! Great rebuild series.
Sounds like cylinder 12 has some stuck rings. Could tip the engine to one side and pour diesel fuel into the cylinder. Let it soak for a night and then do the leak down test again
Hi Scotty. Suggestion. To get Fuel Tanks Clean. Usually A Radiator Special will be able to Steam Clean Tanks. Just in case you may need to open a panel to clean and remove old filter. Not sure about if there is any available at your location. Cheers Carlyle
Only suggestion I got is to keep asking questions and getting help! Esp from the dude who showed up with years of knowledge. Not many of those dudes left. Thanks for sharing this! Awesome!
I highly suggest purchasing "Evapo-Rust" and filling the cylinders thru the spark plug holes then letting it sit for at least 18 to 24 hours. It's an amazing product with no corrosive properties then wet-vac out the evapo-rust followed by a light coat of Mobil 1 0W-20 Full Synthetic. I really hope you have not been rotating the engine dry! I saw where you drained the oil but unless you tear down the engine immediately, I would replenish the oil and filters while performing tests..it's just cheap insurance.
Presenting your 100k trophy at 150k subscribers. Great job and thank you for taking us with you on the journey. Your channel is something very special.
Please fill the cylinder with some ATF , Marvel Mystery Oil or similar as suggested . Consider bringing the piston up and put a LITTLE pressure on the filled cylinder and leave it sit as Peter suggests. Nothing to loose. Might get lucky. 🤞
The idea of putting all the various parts in bags and labeling them is a good idea from a previous video . Now seeing you talk all the pics before take down ,, that makes putting things back together later so much easier . As for the fuel tanks ,,, I have used white vinegar to clean all the old fuel schmutz from tanks . It is cheap , non corrosive and you can get it at your local market .
I love the way you are peeling back the layers of the onion, hoping you won't need to go any further - but the reality is, it needs to come apart completely. So get on with it! & well done so far - brilliant video!!
Re: the valve on the leak test kit, didn't you use the adaptor from your compression tester? Or did I pick that up wrong. Great car and great to see you working on getting it back on the road!
He did use that valve but the Schroeder valve is on the hose. I'm surprised he didn't see that. I bet the provided adaptors have a pin in them to push the stem in on the valve. He never looked at them or didn't photo them so who knows.
In Florida and Michigan I've used radiator repair shops to "boil" out my fuel tanks on motorcycles and cars, as well as pressure test for leaks. The problem is the finish on the outside of the tank will also get cleaned off, so you've got to be ready to refinish that to factory spec as well. It is usually under $100 if no repairs are needed, and increases tremendously if repairs are needed.
If you can get your hands on the pro grade BG Carbon Removing product that might help you clean the cylinder without having to disassemble the lower part of the block or remove the heads. I used it on a 308 with bad compression results and it significantly improved the situation. It’s meant to be used as a treatment on a running engine but may be able to do its job if you soak piston 12.
For the fuel filter in the tank remove the sending unit and then with a stiff wire shaped in the needed manner use your scope to have the wire harpoon ar catch the filter in some manner so you can pull the filter out. Rather than a wire you can also use a long reach flexible pick up tool which typically has four fingers that are operated by a lever on the end you hold.
Yo man I’m a ASE mechanic in the states I can’t believe the stuff you get done in your home garage no lift in white sneakers! Nice job looking forward to next video already
Please tell me if this is stupid but why not fill the tanks with hot water/degreaser to clean them? If those filters are buoyant (again I have no idea) they will float to the top where you could grab them with a tool. Dump out the degreaser and water and let them dry?
I would get a hose and listen to the exhaust side and see if you hear anything out of it. Then so the same with the intake side. If you get nothing when the piston is a at tdc then listen to the crank cased rom the oil fill. . And very worse case is listen to the cooling system in case it’s a head gasket or something is cracked into the cooling system. As far as what I would do is probably go with bearing rings and clean the valve seats and valves. Hone the bore out clean the pistons and give it a refresh. Also if you find it’s entering the crank case or the cooling system and your going to take it apart then ask a machine shop to do a block crack test if they are able to do it. Beat of luck and really enjoy watching this series! Cheers!
@@sccarguy8242 all he's spinning there is the follower/shim, not the valve itself. A stuck open valve wouldn't keep those from spinning, would make it easier actually. Given they were losing pressure from the valves and not through the crankcase my bet is either a stuck valve(s) or a burnt exhaust valve.
Considering how much crap was in cylinder 12 it could have the same crap under the valves. They didn’t seem to check for leakage out the rocker covers for cracked piston or ring issue!
I used phosphoric acid to clean the fuel tank on my ‘76 Porsche 911. Also had some carbon buildup on cylinder one which prevented piston from moving through TDC. I used Amsoil powerfoam to loosen it up. Try that first before tear down. It’s probably the rings that are stuck. Powerfoam will also loosen up the rings if they’re simply stuck.
You should reach out to Tyrrells Classic. Workshop to see if he would be interested in doing a collab, he is the world's number 1 on these motors. Lovely guy and he's trying to make some traction for his channel. Don't ask you don't get. Good Luck.
@@erikroelans8391 Right! Me knowing it's freaking Ferrari engine. I would not do some half ass rebuild. I would open the bottom end(Or split the block) of the engine to check how dry those rod bearings are and how the crankshaft bearing seals are. I wouldn't bother cheaping out too on this engine. Even though I don't like Ferrari's, I like how they made there engines.
For what it's worth...I just finished a major engine rebuild on my GT......and as I worked on disassembling the engine I took hundreds of photos of every detail as I moved along...by the time the rebuild was underway..I would have completely forgotten the correct orientation of various parts and pieces..the extensive photo library ( up close detail ) saved the day at least a dozen times...at the end of rebuild...she fired up on first crank and no oil or coolant leaks etc...just do this.. You ;ll be happy you did. Savanna ( . )( . )
Yup .... as guy who has restored several cars and have 2 in progress right now, I instinctively chuckled out loud when in a past episode he was hoping he could just clean the engine up really well and that would be all it would need. I would have just planned on a full rebuild from the start given the condition the car was stored at for years. Just the reality of these type projects.
Two ideas for the gas tank. First off, pull the fuel sender unit. If, for some reason, it still won' t fall out, get a standard 2-foot spring loaded "retrieval stick" and tape your camera to that. Option 2 is connect a thin, flexible hose to your shop vac. This works better than you'd think. I had to grab junk out a a 250 gallon heating oil tank and this trick saved my neck. Also, I didn't blow myself to pieces via diesel and a sparking shop-vac motor, so it all worked out.
Best thing to do here is do all the external service items you can and then put this engine on a test bed and fire it up off the car in a controlled manner before opening it. The chances of a catastrophic failure are very slim and quite often you can get a very pleasant surprise that the engine is healthy and just needs some running. There are some excellent comments here about potential stuck valves or rings that can be addressed with some penetrating fluids and time. Sure lots of people say 'ship it off and rebuild it' but they are not paying the bill nor do they have a clue of how expensive that is. The process of external service and bench running makes for some excellent RUclips content and is well in line with the channel's theme of rescuing cars to run them rather than create concours winners. Keep up the great work. Best regards from Canada.
Love this channel and your projects but I don't get why you're mucking about in an area that obviously isn't your strength on the most expensive part to mess up. Friendly advice: Put the engine in a box and send it to someone that knows what they're doing.
Do not take that engine apart, clean it put on a new timing belt that's it. There is nothing wrong with that engine once it runs again things will seat in. think about it. you just drained the break-in oil.
I have two old chevy trucks and we have a powder/anodize shop near where I live and they also have a furnace where they put in things like my fuel tanks. The furnace burns the old varnished crap out of the inside and turns it into ash. Then after the fire treatment i use compressed air and a vacuum to pull all of the ash out. You abn also use water to hose every thing out. I did that too and then used a hair dryer to dry out and heat the tank. Good as new. The furnace also cleans the outside and a bit of glass beading on the outside made the take as good as new. Scott in southern Oregon USA
I've seen some dry-ice detailing videos popping up on RUclips lately - absolutely mind-blowing before and after results on stuff like engines and suspension. Maybe worth a look.
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Fill tank with water and filter will hopefully float to the top. Depends on plastic density.
Take the fuel pump out should be more accessible to get the filter out then
Keep up the good work gratz;)
CALL ED CHINA !!!!!
Congrats on 150K mate! your content is absolutely inspiring.
Loving this series. I would replace as many seals and gaskets as possible for reliability and keep it as original as possible.
Moenie n dom poes wees nie
I always respect a man that works on his cars in white shoes. That takes balls of steel
It shows that he's rich and money doesn't matter to him. It's takes balls of steel to do all of the work & research yourself.
@@stoicspawn3936 literally haha. I have specific black shoes that I ruin for car stuff.
Not to mention the tan trousers.
I was thinking the same..
No they will scuff
lol 😂 top draw ✍️
Love the channel, love the car, hate the promotion of gambling for sponsorship
Guys gotta make a living but I hear you. He is putting out some great content.
Dont be that guy. The man is putting out free content for you to watch while you eat your museli. If you dont like the advert just skip through it.
He buys old Ferraris, his whole channel is gambling
Support the companies that support the channel. Without them you will not have the content you so much “love”
I mean, you don’t have to gamble do you, just enjoy the video
Looks like a rebuild to me regardless. Tear it down. Document every nut and bolt. You might get away with just a hone on the cylinders. Do all bearing and seals considering the age and how long it’s sat. Inspect the entire fuel system considering what you found in the the tanks. Polishing the crank might be all that’s needed for that portion as well.
I can’t get over how clean it is under the valve cover.
put it back in the barn where it came from...what a White Elephant
I was just about to say the same thing. Hone, rings, bearings, seals and cleaning the valves. That is not a major disaster by any means
Propably quite inexpensive (nothing is cheap with a F) and relatively easy.
+After that the engine doesn't need need to be opened ever again (unless something goes terribly wrong).
@@Karpo1986 umm, built a 427 for my 95 Mustang? Everything will go wrong, hope dude has alot of cash and patience
@@Karpo1986 Also tbh compared to some of the modern bloody hideous engines I have to work on this is actually a fairly simple engine.
@@andrefecteau Well I find working on low-tech engines relaxing tbh. 😄
Hard? No.
Expensive? No. (Compared to the fact it is a 300000€ car once done correctly)
Time consuming? Yes, very...
Take the fuel level sending unit out from the top of the tank and you should have a large enough opening to clean the tank and remove the broken filter.
will leave big access hole and able to test sender too, new gasket would be a must
Superb suggestion!
Gunk carburetor parts cleaner comes in a gallon can! Dump in -follow directions- slosh around....good to go....tanks should be aluminum....so no tank sealing(unless there’s a leak-then use por15 tanks sealer)...your like a young Ed China!! (With nicer hair!!-just kidding Ed!!)
First thing I thought of, and a no brainer, but I assumed the filter was trapped in some sort of baffled area that wouldn't allow it to be accessed through the sender hole, since it seemed so obvious to use that method.
Great idea! The senders are probably shot anyway, judging by the state of those filters...
It’s been mentioned a couple times but I wouldn’t be relying on a compression or leak test on an engine that hasn’t run in years, rings will need reseating for sure.
reseating a ring? please tell more about what that involves.
Rings will become stuck and not seal correctly over time. I’m not saying running it would bring them back but it’s not uncommon for engine that have sat to gain compression again.
@@davog1946agreed I'd be tempted to let the cylinders soak in oil
@@davog1946 Its correct. Valve(s) was open for this cilinder 12 years and accumulated corrosion on valve seats and rings. With a running engine this can resolve itself in short time.
Engines seal up if they are low milage. Looking in the cam cover that engine is spotless like brand new. With some carbon remover ran through the cylinders it will come right back without removing the internal parts or the heads
You work bloody hard. You dont take short cuts and you obviously have acquired a lot of experience through doing things yourself. I for one am very impressed and don't need to wish you luck because bad luck is no impediment to you. You just bite the bullet and graft harder. Despite that I wish you success in all you do.
Use a "flexible parts claw" to secure the filter from moving around internal baffling. Let gravity be your friend and rotate the tank to bring the filter to the extraction hole. Use long needle nose or stout hemostats to pull it through. -I always used radiator repair shops to boil out and use like a POR coating to seal a new.
I had exactly the same idea of using the flex claw !
No need for a POR liner. It’s aluminium. But the usual caustic clean is not possible (it eats aluminium). Might be possible to swab it out via the outlet hole with phone cam.
It might sound like a bit "much", but to clean out the fuel tanks and remove the filters: Completely flush the tanks with water to remove all traces of fuel. Using your bore scope, find a section where you can use a cut off wheel to cut out a perhaps 15cm by 15cm inspection panel on the side of the tank without damaging anything inside. That will give you access to remove the filters and also thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Once the tank is clean, simply weld in a fresh section of aluminum, grind down the welds, and pressure test the tank. Bit of work but will leave the tank as good as new and will be invisible if done properly.
Before I move anything in the engine. I like to put a little bit of oil in each cylinder on an engine that has been sitting a long time. The reason is the oil rings go dry when it's been sitting. That will help with compression.
I have done there several times since getting the car. pretty sure its helped the other 11
"Let me investigate here" is guy code for read the instructions or look on RUclips.
Thant's what I do!! LOL
"Come take a look at this" is the same thing, but said when working with others who know more.
These BBi videos have become "drop everything and watch" for me.
Three magic words for me on RUclips right now: BBI, Binky, Project Raleigh
@@replica00000 what’s Project Raleigh?
@@novasportregister8685 M539 Restorations.
no one lets a new Ferrari sit for it's entire life, something happened to this car.
I really don't like the gambling sponsor though.
Don't lose heart - Generations have passed since Project Binky started and they have only just painted the shell.
I found this gem of a channel a little while ago and since then I'm binge watching. But.... I'm sure I speak for all of your subscribers and id love to see more about the man behind the camera, I'd love to know how you got into Ferraris in the first place and how you developed your knowledge and things about you etc etc. Much love from a Ratarossa fan.
A Rataross episode on the 512 is atm better than any Netflix show!
I saw someone comment on split crankcases. I've done a lot of those rebuilding Corvair engines. I only learned the trick on the last few rebuilds. When putting the sides back together, tighten the fasteners just a bit and sneak up on the correct torque while bashing the whole lot with a big rubber mallet. This will prevent any slight misalignment that might cause excess crank friction.
And those who say you need a compete engine tear down and rebuild are absolutely correct. At this level corner cutting is, or shouldn't be on. Also ignore the people who encourage modding the engine, don't even think about it. The car's value as a classic will tank.
-dave
Hey Scott, I started watching you when you were in the hundreds and not surprised to see you in the magazine. Surprised you don't have more subscribers!
The quality of your work, of your vids, definitely deserves a much larger garage.
Congratulations on reaching this milestone! Well Done! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Congrats on 100k! As an Italian and Ferrari lover I truly appreciate your vids! Love seeing the cars I had on my posters as a kid being taken care of with so much love ❤ Respect n thank you🙏🏼🙌🏼
The rings must be stuck/gummed. There is a good chance that once the motor runs and gets some heat in it they will free up. However the last thing you want to do is get it all back together and find out that’s not the case. In a normal motor I would say drop the pan and pull that one piston, but I think (I’m not 100% sure) that’s a split case motor which is an entirely different animal. So I would probably let her soak with some kerosene or diesel in the cyl... then take a blow torch to that cyl and try to get some heat in her. Then re test..... I’m honestly not sure what else can be done without splitting the case.
I have had good success with marvel mystery oil, if it is not a stuck ring, sometimes the walls dry out so much that all you need to do is squirt a bit of motor oil down the sparkplug hole and rotate the engine. But this was before we had bore scopes to look into the engine
This is like a bucket list item...to work and rebuild such as rare car. Wish I was over there to help you out with it!
On the edge of my seat on this one and ENJOYING IT ~!! CONGRATULATIONS ON THE RUclips 100K
Ratarossa, you so much deserve the golden RUclips Award, you do give us viewers so much pleasure with your work, thank you for that
Congratulations 🎈 on 100k and dang near 150k
Yeah if he starts advertising for drugs he'll get 100k more.
Drop the gambling adverts.
151
Thank you for taking the time to restore this car. It is amazing to me that someone would leave such a rare and valuable car out in the weather to rot. It is almost unbelievable.
Nice to see your channel grow. Hope in a near future you upgrade for a well deserved bigger garage. Cheers.
I hope so too
I inherited a '64 Chrysler with a gummed fuel tank. Every place wanted a small fortune for another, with no warranty on it, if it would even fit!! Car sat for over 30 years!!! I bought a can of laquer thinner and used about a quart of it in there, swished it around then let it sit for about 8 hours. When I poured it out, it was VERY nasty. Threw in another pint or so, swished THAT around then pressure-washed it the best I could. Let it dry for almost 2 days and it looked like NEW inside. Try it, it works!!!!! Good luck with this beauty!
cheers buddy ill give it a go
Congrats on the milestone - you deserve it, mate!
Scott there are some great recommendations here in the comments. I can't add anything except my congratulations on the 100K button mate. Stay safe and all the best. I love these videos. 👍👍
I see a lot of people saying "stuck rings"... if that were the case they'd be losing air through the crankcase, not past the valves. Being able to spin the follower/shim proves nothing about having a stuck valve. My bet is either a stuck valve, valves that were open and have a rust knob on them, or a burnt valve.
good to know Bill
@@Ratarossa Another suggestion I'd make. We had a 288 GTO in the shop that had sat a lot, and the aluminum pipes that go through the tunnel rotted through (multiple tiny pinholes). So what you'd get was a small bit of drainage out of that tunnel. The engine has to be out to get to them (and if the BBi is anything like the 288 they're difficult to remove anyway), so I'd pull them and have a look. Might be able to inspect them on the inside first with the borescope since they rot from the inside out. We had replacements made from stainless steel. Wasn't inexpensive but they wouldn't be a problem again.
Another terrific update to one of the most gripping stories currently on RUclips! And congratulations on your RUclips star, it's thoroughly deserved.
With the general lack of abuse and original honing marks still on cylinder wall id guess the motor is generally ok. Lack of leackdown pressure im guessing is dirty valve seats. Or maybe sticky rings on that piston. Should be all good with some cleaning and a new head gasket.
I’ve got to admire your nerve tackling such a project. Loving it
Mate you've got big brass one's pulling that down in your garage, really impressive, Rj in Oz
it's a tractor engine, doesn't need a nasa clean room
@@markscully2342 just the guts to take on rebuilding a engine like that himself is what I meant, I've got a few cars that I work on, & a few more that I don't, Rj
@@rjnation5042
Sorry it's not rocket science.
@@markscully2342 are u mixing up Farrari with lambo they started off making 🚜
@@hyway62 I wasn't I was just having a dig at Ferrari because Lamborghini engines were higher tech than Ferrari back then!
I really like your channel! Keep it up! Fixing a Ferrari in his tiny home garage is awesome to follow! This car is great. I cannot believe someone let it sat for more than a decade. From Montreal, Quebec, Canada.
Congratulations for the play button🎉🎊
I look forward to your videos, watch them on Sunday while I cook a nice roast!! I say it every time but its an inspiration for me to keep on going with my own restoration!!
A dingle-ball hone of the top of that cylinder will sort that out, but I'd wager it's a stuck ring that's the issue. Put some marvel mystery or if you can't find any, some ATF into 12 and let it soak. If it drains away, you've got a stuck or broken ring.
Yes, I came here to tell him to soak the cylinder. Rotate it around until it’s as low abs possible and both valves are shut. Then fill it to the rim through the spark plug hole with Marvel or WD40. Let it sit for a couple days. Then crank over to remove the fluid (most will run right out the exhaust)
I agree. Ring is probably stuck. Soak in atf for a week and see what you get.
Congrats on the 100k button. I love your channel! Cheers!
Ferrari rebuild in your home garage,wow
@Ratarossa Just because the tappets are spinning freely, does not mean the valve itself isn't hanging up or has too much carbon on the seat to seal correctly. You're this far into it now, it's not much more work to pull the cams and the head to inspect things. Also, would've been worth putting a tablespoon or two of oil in the cylinder, turning it over, and then checking the leakdown again. Sometimes that can seal up the old rings where air was escaping and narrow down the problem. Although you'd want an engine stand so you can get the piston facing right way up. Damn boxer engines. Good luck! Great rebuild series.
Just a thought, why not put that rear end up on a wood and rope swing so you get some room back,and it won't get damaged.
I'm bricking it thinking someone is going to stand on that or drop something on it.
Congrats on the play button Brother! So stoked for you!
Sounds like cylinder 12 has some stuck rings. Could tip the engine to one side and pour diesel fuel into the cylinder. Let it soak for a night and then do the leak down test again
i think i would do the diesel trick .you have nothing to lose
Gratz on the 100k!! Great channel. Looking forward to more great content and best of luck with the Boxer!
Hi Scotty.
Suggestion. To get Fuel Tanks Clean. Usually A Radiator Special will be able to Steam Clean Tanks.
Just in case you may need to open a panel to clean and remove old filter.
Not sure about if there is any available at your location.
Cheers Carlyle
Only suggestion I got is to keep asking questions and getting help! Esp from the dude who showed up with years of knowledge. Not many of those dudes left. Thanks for sharing this! Awesome!
I highly suggest purchasing "Evapo-Rust" and filling the cylinders thru the spark plug holes then letting it sit for at least 18 to 24 hours. It's an amazing product with no corrosive properties then wet-vac out the evapo-rust followed by a light coat of Mobil 1 0W-20 Full Synthetic.
I really hope you have not been rotating the engine dry!
I saw where you drained the oil but unless you tear down the engine immediately, I would replenish the oil and filters while performing tests..it's just cheap insurance.
Congrats on 100,000 subscribers. You rock!
let DK engineering look at the engine - you can't afford that to be messed up.
I had the exact same comment. Great minds think alike
Dk engineering! If you have no money worries.
Presenting your 100k trophy at 150k subscribers. Great job and thank you for taking us with you on the journey. Your channel is something very special.
You should dump some ATF fluid down cylinder 12 might just be a stuck piston ring but the ATF fluid sitting there for a couple of days
Yeah, I didn't hear intake/exhaust during leakdown test and suspect a stuck ring.
Been there, done that
Please fill the cylinder with some ATF , Marvel Mystery Oil or similar as suggested . Consider bringing the piston up and put a LITTLE pressure on the filled cylinder and leave it sit as Peter suggests. Nothing to loose. Might get lucky. 🤞
I also agree I think the ring is just stuck a little.
You would hear it leak at the oil fill hole if it’s getting by the rings. Like Peter says, a little ATF would probably get them freed back up.
your time and effort are well spent. This car deserves the detail work. Well done...... don't stop
Just bought an old 1/18 scale Burago Testarossa model. Going to make a Ratarossa model from it.
The idea of putting all the various parts in bags and labeling them is a good idea from a previous video . Now seeing you talk all the pics before take down ,, that makes putting things back together later so much easier . As for the fuel tanks ,,, I have used white vinegar to clean all the old fuel schmutz from tanks . It is cheap , non corrosive and you can get it at your local market .
You should be able to have the tanks ultrasonically cleaned. That is probably the easiest and fastest way to get them 100% clean.
I love the way you are peeling back the layers of the onion, hoping you won't need to go any further - but the reality is, it needs to come apart completely. So get on with it! & well done so far - brilliant video!!
The bublicity of casinò is the worst think you have done .
Nobody better than Rardley motors for fixing up the engine!
Re: the valve on the leak test kit, didn't you use the adaptor from your compression tester? Or did I pick that up wrong. Great car and great to see you working on getting it back on the road!
No adaptor. 16:30
He did use that valve but the Schroeder valve is on the hose. I'm surprised he didn't see that. I bet the provided adaptors have a pin in them to push the stem in on the valve. He never looked at them or didn't photo them so who knows.
In Florida and Michigan I've used radiator repair shops to "boil" out my fuel tanks on motorcycles and cars, as well as pressure test for leaks. The problem is the finish on the outside of the tank will also get cleaned off, so you've got to be ready to refinish that to factory spec as well. It is usually under $100 if no repairs are needed, and increases tremendously if repairs are needed.
If you can get your hands on the pro grade BG Carbon Removing product that might help you clean the cylinder without having to disassemble the lower part of the block or remove the heads. I used it on a 308 with bad compression results and it significantly improved the situation. It’s meant to be used as a treatment on a running engine but may be able to do its job if you soak piston 12.
I love your channel and I love Ferrari’s thank you so much for sharing with everyone you deserve the award from RUclips
Love the series from a happy subscriber!!!!!
I really enjoyed how technical this video was! Thank you!
Amazing! He works on a car with bright white sneakers on and they don’t even get dirty.
I know magic 👍
Yeah but they are steel toe trainers
You deserve that award from RUclips - this is an amazing channel and I applaud your hard work - it's fascinating to watch your progress.
For the fuel filter in the tank remove the sending unit and then with a stiff wire shaped in the needed manner use your scope to have the wire harpoon ar catch the filter in some manner so you can pull the filter out. Rather than a wire you can also use a long reach flexible pick up tool which typically has four fingers that are operated by a lever on the end you hold.
Use the hover and hover it out there 😜
Yo man I’m a ASE mechanic in the states I can’t believe the stuff you get done in your home garage no lift in white sneakers! Nice job looking forward to next video already
Please tell me if this is stupid but why not fill the tanks with hot water/degreaser to clean them? If those filters are buoyant (again I have no idea) they will float to the top where you could grab them with a tool. Dump out the degreaser and water and let them dry?
And by tool I mean one of those small magnetic “pickup tools” with the claw/fingers that grab parts
Ill give anything a try
I would get a hose and listen to the exhaust side and see if you hear anything out of it. Then so the same with the intake side. If you get nothing when the piston is a at tdc then listen to the crank cased rom the oil fill. . And very worse case is listen to the cooling system in case it’s a head gasket or something is cracked into the cooling system. As far as what I would do is probably go with bearing rings and clean the valve seats and valves. Hone the bore out clean the pistons and give it a refresh. Also if you find it’s entering the crank case or the cooling system and your going to take it apart then ask a machine shop to do a block crack test if they are able to do it. Beat of luck and really enjoy watching this series! Cheers!
Did you look down the intake and exhaust ports to see condition of the valves? Could have a piece of debris holding a valve open
Fair point, but that would have shown after he pulled the cover. The pressure would have prevented him from spinning them.
@@sccarguy8242 all he's spinning there is the follower/shim, not the valve itself. A stuck open valve wouldn't keep those from spinning, would make it easier actually. Given they were losing pressure from the valves and not through the crankcase my bet is either a stuck valve(s) or a burnt exhaust valve.
Considering how much crap was in cylinder 12 it could have the same crap under the valves. They didn’t seem to check for leakage out the rocker covers for cracked piston or ring issue!
I used phosphoric acid to clean the fuel tank on my ‘76 Porsche 911. Also had some carbon buildup on cylinder one which prevented piston from moving through TDC. I used Amsoil powerfoam to loosen it up. Try that first before tear down. It’s probably the rings that are stuck. Powerfoam will also loosen up the rings if they’re simply stuck.
Imagine if the guy who put this engine in the car from the beginning at the factory watch this now.
YES! He should shoutout to him to see if he’s still around and able to be reunited with it and help. Wouldn’t that be brilliant?
He'd be like Eh Wadda you do? eh?..get away from ther' I fix'a the right way!
Retired at 55. Dead at 60.
Great videos mate...keep them coming and congrats on the silver plac 👍🙂
You should reach out to Tyrrells Classic. Workshop to see if he would be interested in doing a collab, he is the world's number 1 on these motors. Lovely guy and he's trying to make some traction for his channel. Don't ask you don't get. Good Luck.
G son very good idea.
I was thinking the same thing. It'd be a great collab if he could help.
Except that Iain knows what he's doing. This is just a guy messing about in his garage.
Tyrells are a business with staff who need paying. They aren't going to work on this without a lot of money changing hands
Graeme Hill good point.
Rings or valve seat issue?
And congrats on the 100K mark. Your channel is eagerly consumed when a new video posts. Love it!
you already have the engine out, I would do a full rebuild before reinstalling it so you know for sure it is good.
I have no idea why to play around by turning an engine over which is sitting that long. It is out, just open up and check, clean, rebuild.
@@erikroelans8391 Right! Me knowing it's freaking Ferrari engine. I would not do some half ass rebuild. I would open the bottom end(Or split the block) of the engine to check how dry those rod bearings are and how the crankshaft bearing seals are. I wouldn't bother cheaping out too on this engine. Even though I don't like Ferrari's, I like how they made there engines.
@@JerzeyBoy Ferrari had a great business model for maintenance! With the newer Ferrari's it seems to be more moderate.
For what it's worth...I just finished a major engine rebuild on my GT......and as I worked on disassembling the engine I took hundreds of photos of every detail as I moved along...by the time the rebuild was underway..I would have completely forgotten the correct orientation of various parts and pieces..the extensive photo library ( up close detail )
saved the day at least a dozen times...at the end of rebuild...she fired up on first crank and no oil or coolant leaks etc...just do this.. You ;ll be happy you did. Savanna ( . )( . )
One had to suspect there was a major engine issue, hence the sitting in the drive for a decade.
Yup .... as guy who has restored several cars and have 2 in progress right now, I instinctively chuckled out loud when in a past episode he was hoping he could just clean the engine up really well and that would be all it would need. I would have just planned on a full rebuild from the start given the condition the car was stored at for years. Just the reality of these type projects.
Well done 👏 lad. This project is amazing just like the channel well deserved.
Get a strip for the area where the garage door meets the concrete. You’re losing a boat ton of heat through there.
Don’t think Scott has any heat in his garage
Congrats Scott on 150k subs, looks like 200k soon!!
Oh yes! Another episode!
Two ideas for the gas tank. First off, pull the fuel sender unit. If, for some reason, it still won' t fall out, get a standard 2-foot spring loaded "retrieval stick" and tape your camera to that. Option 2 is connect a thin, flexible hose to your shop vac. This works better than you'd think. I had to grab junk out a a 250 gallon heating oil tank and this trick saved my neck. Also, I didn't blow myself to pieces via diesel and a sparking shop-vac motor, so it all worked out.
What did your girlfriend put in your coffee? I’ve never seen someone work so fast
LOL
Why not cut a window on the tanks and clean it up then get someone to weld aluminium back? Then pressure test for leakage?
Thats a timelapse mate 😂
@@pipepamama I guess you missed the sarcasm mate , of course I know it’s a time lapse
High Octane gas.
Best thing to do here is do all the external service items you can and then put this engine on a test bed and fire it up off the car in a controlled manner before opening it. The chances of a catastrophic failure are very slim and quite often you can get a very pleasant surprise that the engine is healthy and just needs some running. There are some excellent comments here about potential stuck valves or rings that can be addressed with some penetrating fluids and time. Sure lots of people say 'ship it off and rebuild it' but they are not paying the bill nor do they have a clue of how expensive that is. The process of external service and bench running makes for some excellent RUclips content and is well in line with the channel's theme of rescuing cars to run them rather than create concours winners. Keep up the great work. Best regards from Canada.
thanks buddy, love this advice
Love this channel and your projects but I don't get why you're mucking about in an area that obviously isn't your strength on the most expensive part to mess up. Friendly advice: Put the engine in a box and send it to someone that knows what they're doing.
💯 and if you want content, film at their place as and when you can
always look forward to your new vids, well deserved award
Give Iain Tyrrell at Cheshire Classic Cars a shout! I'm sure he will be extremely helpful.
Best advice so far!
149K subs. Congrats, Scott, from a 4-digit OG. 😊 Keep rolling brother.
Best way to remove that gummy is using hot water - it will release all that without damaging the task. Repeat the process two or three and done.
It's about time you broke the 150k mark. I don't know why more people don't watch your channel. Your content is great
Do not take that engine apart, clean it put on a new timing belt that's it.
There is nothing wrong with that engine once it runs again things will seat in. think about it. you just drained the break-in oil.
I have two old chevy trucks and we have a powder/anodize shop near where I live and they also have a furnace where they put in things like my fuel tanks. The furnace burns the old varnished crap out of the inside and turns it into ash. Then after the fire treatment i use compressed air and a vacuum to pull all of the ash out. You abn also use water to hose every thing out. I did that too and then used a hair dryer to dry out and heat the tank. Good as new. The furnace also cleans the outside and a bit of glass beading on the outside made the take as good as new. Scott in southern Oregon USA
Soak the cylinders in MMO, let it sit in there, drain it out, turn it a bunch, then try again.
I gave you a thumbs up for keeping those white kicks clean!
I've seen some dry-ice detailing videos popping up on RUclips lately - absolutely mind-blowing before and after results on stuff like engines and suspension. Maybe worth a look.