I love your tenacity on engine rebuilding. I tried being ultra thorough last time I built an engine but while I was cleaning it all my witness marks washed off so I just slapped it together.
Hello,i check my e55 i have same problem,oil pump chain scratching that part of timing cover,1 question this materials that are being scratched worn from chain where does it go?if they go to oil pan is there any danger they can pass to engine??
Very thorough. Good explanations. Gonna be excellent info coming up and I hope you keep us informed on the electronics involved for fuel injection, ignition, and safety switch features.
The green O-ring material is the same as used in home HVAC units. It's supposed to be more durable and this is becoming a common upgrade for automotive O-rings. Most shops here have HVAC O-ring kits to replace old O-rings.
Welcome to the operation channel. In today's surgery, we'll be putting back together the AMG E55 M113 engine. Nice work! Enjoyed watching every meticulous minute of it! I think turbocharging is a great modification, in addition to supercharging, because you'll overcome the initial turbo lag with the SC and have the higher RPM torque & horsepower with the turbos. However, I'm curious to see this engine block without an SC and just turbo chargers only. THAT would be interesting, especially the numbers on the performance difference. Keep up the great work!
Yeh, the turbos probably won't have the same low end torque the SC gives. They're sized for higher rpm's anyways, but I think it will help make more power in the higher rpm's because of less restrictions in the induction system and lower rotating mass
@@xfmotorsports Agreed. And if you're purpose of the engine is time attack, then it's safe to say that the predominant application will be in the high RPM range, which will favour the turbos more that the weight cost of the supercharger you discussed in your video.
nice job so far: when i look the way you use the gasketmaker i remember why i usually use locite 5980. it's easier and quicker without that messing around with the tube and the silikon. go on. nice job.
Thank you for this video series. It has helped me to get this far. I have never rebuilt an engine before. Unfortunately I am now rebuilding my 87 560SL M117 and it scares me to death. I’m getting ready to assemble the engine and I can’t seem to find documentation on applying sealant to the front & rear covers. The documents you have for your M113 is something I need. Where can I find this for my car/engine? All I can find are torque specs & terrible PDFs. Every single nut & bolt on my entire car I have removed from the ground up. The engine is the last thing I needed to do. My transmission is being rebuilt by Sun Valley Mercedes Transmission in CA (#1 MB Trans rebuilder in the country). Next week I will be assembling the cylinder heads & lap the valves. I started a RUclips channel to help me document the process so I can hopefully put the car back together. I’m doing this because I could not find anyone else to rebuild my engine. It’s been parked since 2008 & I hope to start it in 2022. Wish me luck cause I’m going to need it.
Fantastic job you have done - amazing, priceless, incrediable! Your videos are my very strict guidline during replacement of all rubber sealings of my M113K engine. One request to you: Where do i find the sealing and screw diagramms for the M113K and which type of sealing i should use? Thx a lot for ur feedback keep racing...:-)
awesome job man! keep it up! if you are here in Northern California (Bay Area) I can definitely help you with your project, and even lend my shop with you. looking forward to seeing the next videos!
Thanks man. I'm in Canada. Yeh Cali is definitely the right place for this stuff. Don't visit there too often but wouldn't mind swinging by your shop if I'm there next time!
Also can I get to the oil pump pickup tube o ring if I did timing cover refresh/timing chain and the oil pump chain/ tensioner? Can it be done if you do a timing cover refresh or will you have to flip the motor over?
Such an informative series. Currently finding metal in my C55 amg oil and oil filter. I sent them two Blackstone analysis over the course of 10k to 12k miles and both came back clean. I’m assuming the timing chain rubbing on the cover is the culprit. It does beg the question though… wouldn’t this occurrence cause other internal issues? I’m hoping this doesn’t cause my engine to seize
Great vid, I think you should look into a SLS maybe as it would be easier to swap everything and lot lighter. Also the car was designed by Amg and has alot more potential
The o-ring is around $3. No, did not measure the size after polishing but would have been a small difference. The o-ring was still a tight fit after polishing
Hey Is there a way to do the oil pump chain without a full engine rebuild? I have the noise where it hits the timing cover. Should I be worried? I drive the car hard often. If there is a way too do it what would you recommend while in there.
I have an E55 and I recently started having this loud ticking at idle and I’m reading in the forums that it might be the oil pump chain but I have no clue 😅
Did you try free spinning the oilpump after assembly? Is there any resistance on the sprocket due to slight misalignment? I noticed it needs to be perfectly aligned, beyond just driving the bolts in.
Yeh good point, there's no alignment dowels between the different sections but they have to line up for the pump to turn freely. I had to loosen and retighten a few times before installing
Great series, BTW. Is there any real fix for this problem with the o-ring on the oil pump pickup? Seems maybe a different type of material to use for the o-ring is necessary. Good Luck on getting your engine running as new (or better).
I wouldn't worry about it too much as far as there is an oil pressure warning when it fails. I think the dangerous part is not having any warning when the engine looses oil pressure. A few GM cars had similar issues with o-rings in the oil collector going hard, but those cars had an oil pressure switch so they actually warn you before something happens
When rotating my crank I'm hearing tapping in my passenger head periodically. I'm assuming my timing is off ? I dont feel any binding or super hard resistance.
I just purchased a 2006 CLS500 engine to replace my overheated 2002 ML500 engine, everybody says it fits, so far its been a bit stressful. Crankshaft bolt pattern is different (so I cant use my flywheel) but flywheel notches where sensor picks up signal is same pattern, want to put two engines on TDC and check if flywheel notches are located in identical positions. Exhaust manifolds have to be replaced with ML ones, engine mounts, upper and lower oil Pan have to be swapped, and here is where my question lies, and hopefully someone can answer. The oil pumps are different ML has simple pump with pickup tube in one peace, while CLS oil pump is huge and has tubes to let pump suck oil from the back of the oil pan and a very short strainer / pickup tube in the front. I see that even the ML oil pump pulley or position is a bit higher compared to the cls pump, I measured the distance between the engine block and the edge of the oil pump gear/chain and ML oil pump gear/chain sits maybe 4mm further away from edge of engine block. I see on all data that you dont need to remove timing cover to replace pump, but what if I need to replace the chain too? since, like I say because of where it sits, probably chains are different lenght.? WHat are your thoughts? I have searched for engine interchangeability but cant find anything. Im also assuming that cam position sensor and gear is the same as ML? I would not like to have a crank no start situation.
Yeh, you'll need to change the oil pump. The chain can be opened and removed without removing timing cover. Thats why they come open ended. Wiring harness might be slightly different but crank position sensor should be the same. Compare the part numbers printed on the cam sprockets. I know its a long job swapping engines between different models but can be done. Best of luck with the project
Hi, can I ask please if it is possible to replace the timing guides with heads on? Can a thin spanner undo the dowels and allow the rails to be removed?
Would you suggest one of these cars to the average car enthusiast? I'm thinking about buying one, but don't know much about fixing cars. Willing to learn though
Yes, try to find a nice clean one. Wouldn't recommend it as your only car but as a second car its not a bad option. They do give trouble from time to time and the maintenance can get expensive, but for the price you can get these cars for, its more than worth it
Wow another great video, keep them coming, just wondering where did you get the service manual from? Can you provide a link? I’m not rebuilding an M113 but it would be fun to follow along
You could grind a fair bit of the casting to avoid the oil pump chain from grinding on it. When i rebuilt mine, i grinding and polished it flat a gain.. however it still grinded. (I used new chain and spring) I took the cover off again and grinded another 4mm of casting. So far so good. That section of the casting only spaces out the case. So grinding the side and leaving the length untouched will be fine.
Hello,i have seen your videos i have same problem with my e55 oil pump chaim scratching timing cover,1 question this materials that are being worn scratched by chain where do they go?if they go to oil pan is there any risk they can pass to the engine?thanks
The piston works like a heatsink, it's natural to absorb heat and the jet oil will cool them. Also, he removed some parts of the piston to decrease the compression ratio.
Where did you get all instruction How did you clean engine that good Is it possible to replace chain with out taking pan off or engine How much did used engine cost? THANK YOU
Got service manual from 'emanual online' Cleaned engine parts with wd40, wire brush, scotch brite pad and gasoline for the really messy parts Yes, chain can be linked to old chain and fed in as you turn the engine. That's why they come open ended Used engine was $2800. The parts were more expensive. I'll try to put the list of parts together soon
There is no instruction to use a straight edge or a special tool to get back face of upper oil pan flush with back face of engine block? I did not see dowels used to assure the fit is flush for both parts.
Yeh, good point. There's no alignment dowels between the block and upper oil pan. I just lined the back part using a ruler. As far as it lines up flush with the transmission and bolting points, I'm sure it should be okay. There's no gasket or seal required between the transmission and engine so its not as critical as lining up the timing cover, but still it seems to line up pretty well just using a straight edge ruler
SK8215 if you used a straight edge you should be fine. Many engines have sumps that make a part of bell housing and front pump bushing or input bearing (manual trans) wear and leaks can result if the surface isn’t flat across.
@@xfmotorsports Thanks for replying back quick! I have 2008 CL63 6.2 engine and thinking about parting it out. Wanted to know if some of the parts are "reverse threaded bolts"? How would you be able to tell? Dont want to break the bolt thinking its the normal threaded bolts.
![Baby Kia - WYG (feat. LAZER DIM 700) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/avlLsOH_oJc/mqdefault.jpg)
now you need a new amg engine signature with your name on 😀
I love your tenacity on engine rebuilding. I tried being ultra thorough last time I built an engine but while I was cleaning it all my witness marks washed off so I just slapped it together.
12:54 this dude is so CAREFUL and THOROUGH and PAINSTAKING and SKILLED he finds and correct manufacturer's bolt specs...respect!
This guy have balls. Crazy knowledge man. Great videos. 👍🏼
Hello,i check my e55 i have same problem,oil pump chain scratching that part of timing cover,1 question this materials that are being scratched worn from chain where does it go?if they go to oil pan is there any danger they can pass to engine??
Beautiful, clean work.
I love this series. Obviously not happy you had to rebuild your engine but I'm learning so much for when I do my own project cars. Keep it up!
This dude is rebuilding an engine explaining every little detail about every component and he still doesn't have 1 million subscribers?
Why don’t you have more subscribers. I don’t think there is one video out there showing a complete e55 engine rebuild video. Thank you these videos😀
Very thorough. Good explanations.
Gonna be excellent info coming up and I hope you keep us informed on the electronics involved for fuel injection, ignition, and safety switch features.
Damn, i wish i had this much commitment lol thats amazing
The green O-ring material is the same as used in home HVAC units. It's supposed to be more durable and this is becoming a common upgrade for automotive O-rings. Most shops here have HVAC O-ring kits to replace old O-rings.
Again a realy nice video. I like how you explain everything. I watch all of your videos. greetings from germany
Twin turbo e55 sounds tough! Can’t wait to see the beast
Very impressive work. Can't wait to hear it run.
great info, great videos, iam getting to know my m113 before its even time for me to service it, Thanks for your time
Welcome to the operation channel. In today's surgery, we'll be putting back together the AMG E55 M113 engine. Nice work! Enjoyed watching every meticulous minute of it!
I think turbocharging is a great modification, in addition to supercharging, because you'll overcome the initial turbo lag with the SC and have the higher RPM torque & horsepower with the turbos. However, I'm curious to see this engine block without an SC and just turbo chargers only. THAT would be interesting, especially the numbers on the performance difference.
Keep up the great work!
Yeh, the turbos probably won't have the same low end torque the SC gives. They're sized for higher rpm's anyways, but I think it will help make more power in the higher rpm's because of less restrictions in the induction system and lower rotating mass
@@xfmotorsports Agreed. And if you're purpose of the engine is time attack, then it's safe to say that the predominant application will be in the high RPM range, which will favour the turbos more that the weight cost of the supercharger you discussed in your video.
nice job so far:
when i look the way you use the gasketmaker i remember why i usually use locite 5980. it's easier and quicker without that messing around with the tube and the silikon.
go on. nice job.
You're a wizard sir. Thanks for the content!
Thank you for this video series. It has helped me to get this far. I have never rebuilt an engine before. Unfortunately I am now rebuilding my 87 560SL M117 and it scares me to death. I’m getting ready to assemble the engine and I can’t seem to find documentation on applying sealant to the front & rear covers. The documents you have for your M113 is something I need. Where can I find this for my car/engine? All I can find are torque specs & terrible PDFs. Every single nut & bolt on my entire car I have removed from the ground up. The engine is the last thing I needed to do. My transmission is being rebuilt by Sun Valley Mercedes Transmission in CA (#1 MB Trans rebuilder in the country). Next week I will be assembling the cylinder heads & lap the valves. I started a RUclips channel to help me document the process so I can hopefully put the car back together. I’m doing this because I could not find anyone else to rebuild my engine. It’s been parked since 2008 & I hope to start it in 2022. Wish me luck cause I’m going to need it.
If you want to go all out, make a custom tubular chassis and put the engine in it :D
Adonis Duma Precient
God this is the most exiting channel on RUclips by far! If you would live in Sweden I’ll find you and we’ll compete with koenigsegg.
Love the videos man. Very impressive .
Thanks for the video man! It helped me a lot!
Nice clean work
Fantastic job you have done - amazing, priceless, incrediable! Your videos are my very strict guidline during replacement of all rubber sealings of my M113K engine. One request to you: Where do i find the sealing and screw diagramms for the M113K and which type of sealing i should use? Thx a lot for ur feedback keep racing...:-)
Looking forward to the "start-up" video.
awesome job man! keep it up! if you are here in Northern California (Bay Area) I can definitely help you with your project, and even lend my shop with you. looking forward to seeing the next videos!
Thanks man. I'm in Canada. Yeh Cali is definitely the right place for this stuff. Don't visit there too often but wouldn't mind swinging by your shop if I'm there next time!
Great information 👍👌
Oh almos done and taking the shape of an engine
Amazing
Very informative video, Can you tell me where you purchase the engine stand from or what kind of Stand I should be looking.
Thank you.
Great job there. I'm debating whether I am able to adjust the Valves on my civic, lol.
Would polishing the oil pump for a cleaner seal not make it fractionally larger/looser?
It opened up by half a millimeter but the o-ring still sits pretty tight
Also can I get to the oil pump pickup tube o ring if I did timing cover refresh/timing chain and the oil pump chain/ tensioner? Can it be done if you do a timing cover refresh or will you have to flip the motor over?
Also off to the side in the diagram LOL
Green oRing looks like a Viton oring
It is for sure, they should have used Viton from the factory for such a critical seal imo
Great video. Can you confirm who your sourced the parts from, how difficult it was to identify what you needed and how much you have spent.
Got most of them from the dealers. I'll try to post the full list and part numbers by the end
great diy!
GREAT JOB
Such an informative series. Currently finding metal in my C55 amg oil and oil filter. I sent them two Blackstone analysis over the course of 10k to 12k miles and both came back clean. I’m assuming the timing chain rubbing on the cover is the culprit. It does beg the question though… wouldn’t this occurrence cause other internal issues? I’m hoping this doesn’t cause my engine to seize
Great vid, I think you should look into a SLS maybe as it would be easier to swap everything and lot lighter. Also the car was designed by Amg and has alot more potential
what sealent did you use for the timing chain cover,where can i find a mannual for rebuilding the m113k
How much is stealership only? Did you measure the before and after sizes? May need a bigger oring. Amazing that casting was ever allowed to be used.
The o-ring is around $3. No, did not measure the size after polishing but would have been a small difference. The o-ring was still a tight fit after polishing
Brilliant, would love to rebuild my engine, but i don't have the space!!
Hey Is there a way to do the oil pump chain without a full engine rebuild? I have the noise where it hits the timing cover. Should I be worried? I drive the car hard often. If there is a way too do it what would you recommend while in there.
I have an E55 and I recently started having this loud ticking at idle and I’m reading in the forums that it might be the oil pump chain but I have no clue 😅
Just seen that that you touched on this topic glad to hear that’s the issue
Any chance you have a part number for the 3 rear gasket seals on the timing cover?
Did you try free spinning the oilpump after assembly? Is there any resistance on the sprocket due to slight misalignment? I noticed it needs to be perfectly aligned, beyond just driving the bolts in.
Yeh good point, there's no alignment dowels between the different sections but they have to line up for the pump to turn freely. I had to loosen and retighten a few times before installing
Great series, BTW.
Is there any real fix for this problem with the o-ring on the oil pump pickup? Seems maybe a different type of material to use for the o-ring is necessary.
Good Luck on getting your engine running as new (or better).
I wouldn't worry about it too much as far as there is an oil pressure warning when it fails. I think the dangerous part is not having any warning when the engine looses oil pressure. A few GM cars had similar issues with o-rings in the oil collector going hard, but those cars had an oil pressure switch so they actually warn you before something happens
Nice Video 💪
I love Your videos :). I can't wait and see the other guys faces, when You kick their asses with this "grandpa" car :D
That black o ring put you in this mess loool
When rotating my crank I'm hearing tapping in my passenger head periodically. I'm assuming my timing is off ? I dont feel any binding or super hard resistance.
I was listening to this in the background and thought you were playing a clip with r2d2 in it at 6:48
Putting the turbos in the front will become efficient in delivering power but the weight distribution will suffer.
What was the mileage of your E55 before the repair?
What is the part number for the sprocket at 0:42 and where can i get the printouts of specifications you have
I just purchased a 2006 CLS500 engine to replace my overheated 2002 ML500 engine, everybody says it fits, so far its been a bit stressful.
Crankshaft bolt pattern is different (so I cant use my flywheel) but flywheel notches where sensor picks up signal is same pattern, want to put two engines on TDC and check if flywheel notches are located in identical positions. Exhaust manifolds have to be replaced with ML ones, engine mounts, upper and lower oil Pan have to be swapped, and here is where my question lies, and hopefully someone can answer. The oil pumps are different ML has simple pump with pickup tube in one peace, while CLS oil pump is huge and has tubes to let pump suck oil from the back of the oil pan and a very short strainer / pickup tube in the front. I see that even the ML oil pump pulley or position is a bit higher compared to the cls pump, I measured the distance between the engine block and the edge of the oil pump gear/chain and ML oil pump gear/chain sits maybe 4mm further away from edge of engine block. I see on all data that you dont need to remove timing cover to replace pump, but what if I need to replace the chain too? since, like I say because of where it sits, probably chains are different lenght.?
WHat are your thoughts? I have searched for engine interchangeability but cant find anything. Im also assuming that cam position sensor and gear is the same as ML? I would not like to have a crank no start situation.
Yeh, you'll need to change the oil pump. The chain can be opened and removed without removing timing cover. Thats why they come open ended. Wiring harness might be slightly different but crank position sensor should be the same. Compare the part numbers printed on the cam sprockets.
I know its a long job swapping engines between different models but can be done. Best of luck with the project
Do you have a secure and reliable source for the Mercedes shop manuals?
Hi, can I ask please if it is possible to replace the timing guides with heads on?
Can a thin spanner undo the dowels and allow the rails to be removed?
Would you suggest one of these cars to the average car enthusiast? I'm thinking about buying one, but don't know much about fixing cars. Willing to learn though
Yes, try to find a nice clean one. Wouldn't recommend it as your only car but as a second car its not a bad option. They do give trouble from time to time and the maintenance can get expensive, but for the price you can get these cars for, its more than worth it
Did you figure out were that rubber piece found in the disassembly video goes? Did
you install one here?
the engine essentially has two oil scavenge pumps and one pressure pump, from the looks of it.
Wow another great video, keep them coming, just wondering where did you get the service manual from? Can you provide a link? I’m not rebuilding an M113 but it would be fun to follow along
Thanks, I downloaded it from "emanual online"
You could grind a fair bit of the casting to avoid the oil pump chain from grinding on it.
When i rebuilt mine, i grinding and polished it flat a gain.. however it still grinded. (I used new chain and spring)
I took the cover off again and grinded another 4mm of casting. So far so good.
That section of the casting only spaces out the case. So grinding the side and leaving the length untouched will be fine.
Hello,i have seen your videos i have same problem with my e55 oil pump chaim scratching timing cover,1 question this materials that are being worn scratched by chain where do they go?if they go to oil pan is there any risk they can pass to the engine?thanks
Wow, You have got so much knowledge, btw how did You get all these service manuals??
I got them from emanualonline. Legit street cars posted instructions in his recent steering wheel video
Did you print directly from the wis?
What sealant/gasket maker did you use? Thanks.
I feel like the lack of ceramic coating is going to cause massive heat soak into the combustion chambers
The piston works like a heatsink, it's natural to absorb heat and the jet oil will cool them.
Also, he removed some parts of the piston to decrease the compression ratio.
Where did you get all instruction
How did you clean engine that good
Is it possible to replace chain with out taking pan off or engine
How much did used engine cost?
THANK YOU
Got service manual from 'emanual online'
Cleaned engine parts with wd40, wire brush, scotch brite pad and gasoline for the really messy parts
Yes, chain can be linked to old chain and fed in as you turn the engine. That's why they come open ended
Used engine was $2800. The parts were more expensive. I'll try to put the list of parts together soon
@@xfmotorsports i very appreciate for your respond look like you live in Canada as well cool and thank you
What is the part number for that green o ring in the pump?
What's your horse power achivement
There is no instruction to use a straight edge or a special tool to get back face of upper oil pan flush with back face of engine block? I did not see dowels used to assure the fit is flush for both parts.
Yeh, good point. There's no alignment dowels between the block and upper oil pan. I just lined the back part using a ruler. As far as it lines up flush with the transmission and bolting points, I'm sure it should be okay. There's no gasket or seal required between the transmission and engine so its not as critical as lining up the timing cover, but still it seems to line up pretty well just using a straight edge ruler
SK8215 if you used a straight edge you should be fine. Many engines have sumps that make a part of bell housing and front pump bushing or input bearing (manual trans) wear and leaks can result if the surface isn’t flat across.
Was your L and F mixed up on the timing gears? not sure if it refers to it upside down or not?
No, it was right. It's for when the engine is right side up. L referring to left side of the car
Thanks man, Love your build! So awesome! Hopefully you can participate in some project car challenges@@xfmotorsports
Hi,
How much did all the parts cost to rebuild? What was the total?
I mentioned it in the last engine video. I believe it was 4000
@@xfmotorsports Thanks for replying back quick!
I have 2008 CL63 6.2 engine and thinking about parting it out. Wanted to know if some of the parts are "reverse threaded bolts"? How would you be able to tell? Dont want to break the bolt thinking its the normal threaded bolts.
@@boyb72 timing chain sprocket or balance shaft is the only one I know of. The service manual will tell you
@@xfmotorsports Never saw your other vid so didnt know how much. Anyways, love watching your vids! You make it look so easy when your rebuilding it!
How could u do this hard work
Could u suggest any software for suspension designed
Do you ever hear of learning?
moed al garny what
@@sameer-gm3zy For suspension software try Solidworks
Looks like someone got the diagram wet
sprockets on backwards
Way to cheap out on that red gasket maker.....
6, 3 базарная бабка не успеваеш читать субитры
Slow down. You are talking too fast.
Paul Varrieur You can adjust the playback speed via the menu notated by the : in the upper right corner of video.
Keep up