I like your videos a lot because it's well demonstrated & presented! After a few years of having my voron 2.4 (300) I also want to upgrade the printer but was looking for the right combination of upgrades. Went for CAN (bought SB2209/RP2040) and started printing the 'pinned' gantry parts including the Ramalama front idlers. Then I found your videos on the Voron 2.4 rebuild and am now more confident to start my upgrades. Still want to wait a bit on your next videos on what you have in mind with respect for your (next) upgrades...... My voron has a TAP installed and works well. The down side is that it takes some time to get a bed mesh before every print (even using KAMP) and belief that TAP introduces some addition resonances which is bad for getting a solid frequency response with input shaper(weight of the stealthburner only with limited magnet force to keep this weight at low frequences). I looked at a video from YGK3D on a comparison between 2 types of scanning probes (Eddy and Beacon). The Eddy scan prope looks very promissing and will be available soon in a CAN version to connect with the SB2209. (YGK3D-3D - Printer Bed Mesh Generation Will NEVER Be The Same - Eddy v.s. Beacon). Maybe this Eddy probe might also be suited for you and should be an easy add-on to the dragon burner assembly. Looking forward to your upcoming Voron 2.4 (Rebuild) videos.
Hey, glad you're enjoying it. Sadly, I accidentally lost the footage for the rest of my work on that printer and the rebuild has been completed for some time now. I'll likely do a single retrospective episode to close out the series. There's a newer playlist on the channel now with a full build of a Voron v0.2 and I didn't lose any of that footage. It has a similar production style.
Hey there, thanks for that video. This little helper thing to align the Pulleys to the motor seems very handy, could you tell me where I can find that?
It's called pulley_jig.stl and it's included with the standard Voron 2.4 printed parts. You can find it here: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/STLs/Tools There are some other useful printed tools and spacing guides in that folder, too.
It definitely looks promising, but I haven't tried that setup myself so I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending it to anyone without having actually seen it in action.
You should add Cartographer probe (opne source beacon). Its better than klicky and it connects to Canbus connections on front fan PCB on your EBB. Plug and play probe.
I like it a lot so far. I actually tried it out for a couple months on the old version of the printer before the rebuild to make sure it'd work well for me. You can leave the switches in place, just unplug them from your controller board and then update klipper to try it out. Then it's easy to switch back if you don't like it.
It's worked okay for me and has held up even after hundreds of hours of printing. That was the best option I could find at the time, but something like Mobilux EP1 or EP2 would be preferable.
I like your videos a lot because it's well demonstrated & presented!
After a few years of having my voron 2.4 (300) I also want to upgrade the printer but was looking for the right combination of upgrades. Went for CAN (bought SB2209/RP2040) and started printing the 'pinned' gantry parts including the Ramalama front idlers. Then I found your videos on the Voron 2.4 rebuild and am now more confident to start my upgrades. Still want to wait a bit on your next videos on what you have in mind with respect for your (next) upgrades......
My voron has a TAP installed and works well. The down side is that it takes some time to get a bed mesh before every print (even using KAMP) and belief that TAP introduces some addition resonances which is bad for getting a solid frequency response with input shaper(weight of the stealthburner only with limited magnet force to keep this weight at low frequences).
I looked at a video from YGK3D on a comparison between 2 types of scanning probes (Eddy and Beacon). The Eddy scan prope looks very promissing and will be available soon in a CAN version to connect with the SB2209. (YGK3D-3D - Printer Bed Mesh Generation Will NEVER Be The Same - Eddy v.s. Beacon).
Maybe this Eddy probe might also be suited for you and should be an easy add-on to the dragon burner assembly.
Looking forward to your upcoming Voron 2.4 (Rebuild) videos.
I really hope the rest of this rebuild series is on its way. Great production quality, really enjoying these overhead shots.
Hey, glad you're enjoying it. Sadly, I accidentally lost the footage for the rest of my work on that printer and the rebuild has been completed for some time now. I'll likely do a single retrospective episode to close out the series.
There's a newer playlist on the channel now with a full build of a Voron v0.2 and I didn't lose any of that footage. It has a similar production style.
Hey there, thanks for that video. This little helper thing to align the Pulleys to the motor seems very handy, could you tell me where I can find that?
It's called pulley_jig.stl and it's included with the standard Voron 2.4 printed parts. You can find it here: github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/STLs/Tools
There are some other useful printed tools and spacing guides in that folder, too.
What do you think about 9mm belt and AWD? Building up a trident from Tronxy 400mm frame and thinking about options for relevation of longer belts.
It definitely looks promising, but I haven't tried that setup myself so I wouldn't feel comfortable recommending it to anyone without having actually seen it in action.
You should add Cartographer probe (opne source beacon). Its better than klicky and it connects to Canbus connections on front fan PCB on your EBB. Plug and play probe.
Good shout, but I've already planned to switch to Voron tap! No more physical endstop switches anywhere in the printer.
How beneficial is sensorless homing? Pros and cons, i have been thinking about dropping my switches too.
I like it a lot so far. I actually tried it out for a couple months on the old version of the printer before the rebuild to make sure it'd work well for me. You can leave the switches in place, just unplug them from your controller board and then update klipper to try it out. Then it's easy to switch back if you don't like it.
PTFE on linear rails is bad I thought?
It's worked okay for me and has held up even after hundreds of hours of printing. That was the best option I could find at the time, but something like Mobilux EP1 or EP2 would be preferable.