Excellent work! You did a great job of boiling down the most confusing parts about the VORON ecosystem into a concise explanation. Glad you’re enjoying the machines and kudos on donating some VORONs to education. Hope they serve them well.
price tho guys common! use your potential purchasing power to reduce the cost to end user. Everything voron is beautiful, list kits in general are a great thing but raw costs on individual parts for the single consumer to build anything these days is such an expensive route often far greater than the respective shipping, storage,sorting fees you would have to pass on to us poor poor big dreaming makers. Much love.
There is a market opportunity for a sourcing company to make high-quality kits for popular voron builds with pre-greased rails and quality inspected components. A reliable one-stop-shop in the US could do well.
Wow! Very well done and thorough video. You really did your homework on this one. I'm pretty sure this is going to become recommended viewing in the Voron Community. I built one of these a few months ago and am really happy with it. I have enough parts to build a second one but the Voron Trident was just introduced the other day and I am tempted to head off in that direction next. (RonC V2.1134)
The other thing that is worth noting, with the discord server and various groups Voron related, you actually get more support with this than most (if not basically all) main stream 3d printers.
You can’t grease linear rails like that though. They have a rubber wiper on both ends to prevent any dust and debris getting in. The proper way to grease linear rails is to take the carriage off and grease the bearings in it as well as the rail to prevent corrosion
Don't make any changes to the steps/mm or rotation_distance, whichever you're using, in your firmware based on those measurements of the calibration cube. ABS shrinks. If you print it in PLA, you'll have 30mm on X and Y. ABS will always be slightly undersized after it cools
Pretty simple explain about the belt motion is examing the right triangle shape with equal side and pythagorean formula. Core XY move fast cause they moving in the hypotenuse direction that mean moving as quicker as in c^2=a^2+b^2. You can see hypotenuse c is much greater compare to a and b side of the triangle when moving in diaginal. You may thought then if they move only a or b side will slower down but turn out they use 2 motor so the overall speed up. Like I mention they are moving like right triangle shape with equal size of a=b then when ever the motor turn in theoretical the belt will pull the hotend a displacement of a=b
Speaking of connector names... the things you were calling 'Molex' connectors were really Dupont connectors. Molex are much beefier and have recessed plastic interlocks. Dupont are the little pin-socket connectors like they use for LED strip connectors or PCB pins.
You're great man. I live in a small rural are and tried to donate stem stuff and was greeted with malice and suspicion. I have no idea why your channel has t blown up. I suspect the d-flo thing has something to do with it. My friends have called me j-stro since the late 90s hahaha
Great video! So here's a blooper, at 13:05. Removes the carriage from the linear rail and loses a load of ball bearings onto the desk :) BE CAREFUL when taking the carriage off the rails. The bearings WILL fall out. Even one lost ball bearing will mess up your rail.
Great video. As someone who built a V2 this year, I appreciate all the explanation you do that would have helped a newbie during my build process. I do slightly disagree with how strictly you say you need to follow all the part sourcing as there are many people running non-spec parts, but for someone doing this for the first time, it's probably best they do everything perfectly to spec.
Coming from someone who has built the V2, I am glad that you see value in the topics I picked. There are still a lot of small things you will learn here and there when you build. Regarding the BOM recommendations, that was more for the newcomer because it really slows down the build process if you have a couple parts that you tried to get a good deal on but they turn out not to fit...
@@DrDFlo Even your explanations of how each component functions and comes into play (for example the benefits of linear rails or why there is still a Z- endstop switch) were very good points to bring up. I'll definitely be sending this to friends who are interested in building one as a good "here's what you should know before you decide"
The worst thing putting Voron together : When something goes wrong (doesn't fit, misehaves), you want to blame "the kit", the disain, the parts seller... Pretty much anyone else.... And Then you remember : it's all you :D You made the mistake, you have to troubleshoot it and you have to fix it. "Why didn't i just buy a new 3d printer" passed my mind couple of times :D
Did you forget the thermal fuse on the build plate, or did I just miss it elsewhere in the build? Voron specs great SSRs, but they can still fail of course and not having a thermal fuse may leave you open to mains voltage bed heating runaway and potential fire, even when the machine is sitting idle.
I believe the Fermio Labs mats come with a "self resetting thermostat" which will turn the heater off if it gets into a thermal runaway, and then reset. I wish we had a company like Fermio in the US that had some of these more custom parts ready to go. I believe you can custom order this stuff direct from Keenovo, but it's more of a hassle and a bit more stressful making sure we do not spec something incorrectly. I had a bit of hard time sourcing the build plate and had to get one a little bigger and without the slots for easier mounting.
@@CodeMonkeX You're correct. They'll just ensure that your heater stay on at around 150c until you notice it. I'm actually the one who got the SK-GO creator to remove them on his kits last year and replace them with real thermal fuses that are replaceable. Those bi-metal thermostats aren't particularly reliable and at that point it's the only thing between you and a thermal runaway. With external power surges being one of the main causes of SSR failure I'd be wary, especially with Voron spec'ing a medium time fuse on the AC input. Imagine being on vacation for a week and a surge makes the SSR fail while you're gone. You're now just hoping that the constant cycling of the thermostat doesn't wear out before you get back and notice it. IMO a thermostat is an improper replacement for a fuse as it doesn't actually stop the problem, but rather attempt to make it safer which is likely why the team specs a real thermal fuse.
@@misteragony It is the next iteration of the Voron 1 line of printers. The Dev group is going from numbers to names because as I pointed out in the video the numbering scheme is confusing, but changing the name so late in process could lead to more people getting their wires crossed.
I’m not sure how much I believe that one or a pair of MGN9 rails would be less strong compared the aluminum and V-Wheels, especially on something like a CNC Router. Also, I’d love to see what a Voron 2.X would be like using machine tools to create many of its parts instead of plain t-slot aluminum extrusions and mostly printed parts with tiny MGN rails (asides from far more massive costs of course).
dude your video on 3d printer building is epic....no one I know has that much info on the topic on youtube in there entire channel in the amount of detail you put into it....totally loved that video. As with your content being quiet long I do love when you put out content.
I have an honest question here so please don't false me or don't insults: How do you make money with these things? I suspect i just look at it from a very different perspective but all the trinkets and novelty items i see people printing off are never the kind of things i would even imagine buying. Everything i print off or design has a definitive and utilitarian role and other than maybe a lamp i can't imagine putting some 3d printed item up as decoration. At best i can see it being used for rapid prototyping and if people need it for that why would they use someone else for that instead of just doing it themselves? I honestly respect anyone who can make an income 3d printing and wish i could figure out how to do it myself.
If you want a reliable inductive probe, just use a spare power switch and turn it on only for tramming. Without this, it failed in two weeks; with it, it works for more than a year now.
this is awesome content. really good. the first professional video about assembling a voron. there are great videos and streams but those are hours over hours and very tedious to watch through. I love this video and instantly shared it with a lot of people --- but what is up with the fps? is it just 24fps or is my youtube broke? this is giving me a headache.
that x/y extrusion issue reminds me of running the rigging for storm sails wrong, right before the storm. then you think, why dont i just hire a captain to sail the boat? ROFLMFAO
This is, hands down, the best video I've seen regarding V2.4 or just Vorons in general. I'll be bookmarking this to give to anyone who asks about building one. Great work!
I laughed when I saw that you have to zip tie a component together -- then what's the point of having a 3D printer? The amount of money people invested to a Voron is much greater than a few screws or inserts.
If the wire are too small for the crimper (or even the contacts) you are using then just double up the wire in the crimp. The extra wire will take up the space.
Very good video - ordered a V0.1 to try hopefully a simpler build as I n00b. By the way did you notice that your middle voron at the end the hotend fan was stopping and starting? Might wanna check that! Also donating them is an amazing thing, my school has XYZ 3d printers and they are not great quality and hideously slow. I'd so love to get some vorons for that school!!!!
Nice video! I watched the entire thing! I was hoping you might cover the bed leveling and z offset a bit? I also commend you for pointing out the risks with nanoparticles and off gassing. People seem to disregard that and I cringe when i see people saying they run these machines in their bedroom, etc. I think I would lean towards fireproof panels (UL 94) over acrylic, just being safety minded as I am. Good job!
I don’t just understand why nobody can just pre-build these and sale assembled . 3d printing world could be changed so easy and be an even bigger market is someone just came in and simplified the hole process and all steps needed . Should never be like this idea of Voron . Every thing can be so simplified , like where nobody (beginners etc…) should ever have to mess with coding or nothing , just replacement of mechanical failed parts. Should be much like a component of a PC . You just need to update firmware just by downloading it and inserting it, no coding to adjust or change . Just a simple download . Should be 80% + manufacture assembled out of the box . Something like the Artillery x1 sidewinder but even better and easier processes . Not to mention the X1 sidewinder is quite the printer at that and we need more systems and printer setups out there like it , but even more simplified for the consumers.
Of all printers to choose from to push that sentiment upon, why would you pick the one designed by enthusiasts, self sourced and with one of the most complex build processes. It's like complaining that you have to write code to get anything fun out of an IDE, it's not meant for random home users lol. I agree with your idea but it's just funny since this is intended to be the opposite of a Sidewinder.
Hey David, excellent video (as always!) I'm in the process of building a HevORT 3D printer. It's going to be a tad bit bigger than yours at 565mm x 565mm x 590mm. Let me know if you need full-sized, one piece traffic cones printed... I went with the HevORT since I could easily (more or less) scale the size to what I wanted. Also, I like the ballscrew/wobblewings approach to bed leveling, the support for bigger motors, it's beefiness, and the option for non-planar printing. There's some serious drawbacks to my build, including the higher price of the parts, availability of those parts, and where to put the darn thing once I'm finished with it. And the frame "efficiency" is woeful compared to the Voron. Far more dead space in it. Going that big caused problems finding places that even sold parts in the sizes that I needed, including 700mm long ball screws, 800mm long rails, and a 1000mm long, 20mm 20mm square carbon fiber tube (the rails and the tube will have to be cut, it isn't that big). The heated bed plate is 23.25" x 23.25" 1/4" ATP 5. MIC6 would have been a better material choice, but it's 2x the cost. And I won't start printing until things are heated up in any case, so expansion will be accounted for. I can always switch to MIC6 later if need be. I'll just be sure to mount the plate so that it floats. The X & Y axes are going to be driven by Teknic servos, which will require 12mm belts. And the frame is made out of 3030 rather than 2020. I ordered the frame parts pre-cut from 8020.net, and they were pretty much spot-on with their cuts. With all of them either on the money, or within a millimeter. The price wasn't bad, $0.27 per inch, and $2.12 per cut. I highly recommend them. I'm looking into welding the frame together (why not?) since I'm shooting for some pretty high speeds with those servos. In any case, another great build, and there are going to be some lucky kids getting to use some awesome printers!
great video! thank you! what are the average speeds you use in your makes provided with good quality? will delta (e.g. flsun v400) print faster than voron 2.4 (with same quality)?
totally inspiring, im gonna order my first 3d printer in a few days and once i get used to how 3d printers work im going to build my own !! thanks for the awesome content
note that wire current ratings need to be degraded inside a heated enclosure and drag chain, though you should probably be fine, but you might want to look at the temperature on the wires after like an hour at the maximum temp you wanna print at.
Excellent video : ) Just a small correction or clarification to the extruder drive intel. Galileo uses larger drive gears than Clockwork but smaller than LGX. Clockwork uses Bondtech BMG's 1.75/5.0mm drive gears. Galileo uses Bondtech QR's 1.75/8.0mm drive gears (or the new shorter drive gears supplied by Bondtech to LDO). Bondtech LGX uses the new 1.75/18mm drive wheels.
I've been referencing your video frequently as I put my 2.4 together. Love your smile, good looks, the way you talk and explain things. Looking forward to more content :)
Might build one of these some day, just got WAY too much other things I got to get done first. One thing I think that would help is a small HEPA filter in addition to the activated carbon to remove at least some of the small particles. I personally designed and made a filter for my printer using activated carbon pre-filters and Roomba HEPA filters. No idea how effective it truly is but it's probably be better than nothing.
@@wayneyandell549 I never published it, but it's based off of the filter on thing:4054734 on Thingieverse, they also put up an assembly guide on YT: ruclips.net/video/h7VDLeoQBYQ/видео.html&ab_channel=CarstenDalgaard Same idea as their filter and enclosure. I just modified their design to make the enclosure bigger for my custom 5015 effector, but the principle is the same, i just changed it to work with my enclosure dimensions and used larger fans.
@@wayneyandell549 Actually NVM I did put it up on Thingieverse, I guess I just forgot: thing:4657322 It was just the door for the enclosure I didn't get around to publishing.
Mhh... IMHO, recommending the *SwitchWire* kinda defeats the purpose of building a Voron unless you're building one from used parts off another printer supplying most of the parts. If you build new, either self-sourced or kit based, then really you should go with either a V0, Trident ( formerly V1 ) or V2 - Either of which I'd argue being more in line with the _"No Compromise"_ claim Voron sells itself on which a _Bedflinger_ SwitchWire kinda doesn't fit into. With them instead being a _CoreXY_ System you're getting a more capable motion system AND a more compact one on top of that. My 210Y Prusa i3 MK3S requires about 550mm of Y-Space to operate - The same my 350Y sized V2.4 requires - Yea... Bedflinger space requirements are _that_ bad requiring _at least_ twice their Y-Print Depth to operate - A 350 sized one wouldn't even fit anymore in my 600mm deep closet. And then there's the thing with the changing mass of a Y-Axis Bedflinger as a print grows - Ppl running Vorons get _really_ hung up on Resonance Calibrating their X and Y axis to get rid of ringing for fast printing but consider printing a huge, almost print volume filling, part ( i.imgur.com/sN2w7Rg.jpeg ) and you're looking at roughly 2-300g of unaccounted weight for that wasn't present while you calibrated your machine. That's a _nonexistent problem_ for a CoreXY as the two X and Y Axis never change mass ( other than 2g of filament feeding into the toolhead 😏 ). Just my CHF 0.50 😁
Great videos! btw...in a future video, can you list some DMLS and/or EBEAM 3D metal printers/kits that might be within reach of small shops or seasoned hobbyists(?) Plastic 3Ds great but a lot of folks also have metal needs :)
I would love to review one of those printers on my channel. However, the metal powder is quite hazardous though and may forever be out of the reach of a hobbyist because you need very special powder handling instruments to prevent explosions and inhalation.
@@DrDFlo - Can definitely see how certain metal powders (especially aluminum) could be risky. Given safety issues surrounding DMLS systems, perhaps EBEAM (or something similar) is the better way to go. Will be interesting to see if anyone can come up with an (ultra) entry-level EBEAM offering in the next couple years!
When he said it makes you wonder why your building one instead of buying one.... I can't relate but I bought an ender 5 plus and after 2 weeks already having to replace a bu ch if stuff so I'm wondering why I bought one instead of just building one
I would love to try all these printers...but how do work and have time to assebly printers. And if you don't work how do you buy one. Unless you're born with a lot of time and money you just end up feeling a little sad.
Look at Teaching Tech's video on improving dimensional accuracy by fine tuning the step count on the X, Y, and Z axis. You need an accurate dial guage to accomplish this.
“Abs wasn’t just chosen for it’s heat deflection temperature. It was also picked for its high tensile strength and CHEMCIAL resistance” I can’t think of a filament material with worse chemical resistance than abs. Lol that stuff breaks down at the sight of xylene, toluene, acetone, and even weakens with mineral spirits. I’d recommend colorfabb ht or xt. You could also use polycarbonate if you have a capable printer.
I was talking about oil and grease. If you have xylene, toluene or any of those solvents near your printer then you are going to have more problems than just your ABS parts degrading. Polycarbonate is very brittle when printed. Not recommended for Voron parts
All of the solvents mentioned have there place in various bed adhesives. When these bed adhesives are used (most commonly acetone + xylene + abs aka. Abs slurry) the vapors are cooked off when the bed is heated. These vapors WILL slowly degrade all abs parts. If you don’t plan on printing abs or asa that’s one thing but I don’t like limiting what I can and cannot print. Unless you’re using petroleum based products directly on your plastic parts, Oil and grease isn’t gonna degrade anything so mentioning that isn’t really of any use. Also, polycarbonate can be printed with a heated chamber and come out ok, or you can get various pro or plus products which have been formulated specifically for printing. Just like any filament polycarbonate requires calibration. The only point I was really trying to make is that abs is the least resistant to chemicals of any filament out there. (Excluding isopropyl smoothing filaments and dissolvable supports)
I appreciate your thorough response. And I admit chemical resistance was a poor choice of wording. But you should not point people towards polycarbonate by acting like ABS is going to degrade due the vapors produced by common bed adhesives. There are thousands of Voron printers and even more commercial ones that use ABS parts. I have not heard of a single example of vapor melting an ABS component beyond anything aesthetic (e.g., slightly smoother surface). You can go to great lengths to print PC at the perfect conditions, but you will still end up with a part that is more brittle. A certain amount of flexibility is required so that the gantry does not snap when performing QGL
Very great job I hope to make a video of how to install BTT UPS 24V V1.0 RESUME PRINTING for power losses recovery on the klipper There is no explanation or video of how to install it on RUclips
Just spreading the grease on the rail and rolling the carriage doesn't really get the grease into the bearings very good. You should get a syringe and inject the grease into the holes on the ends of the carriage. The eyebrows are the coolest part of the idlers! 😂 PTFE is worth every penny. You're building a $1500 printer. Silicone wire saves you like $50-$60 maybe. You can run klipper on duet. 😉
Love all your videos, you're a great presenter. However, it's always a shame when you make use of all the amazing tools you have available. Your videos are hugely educational and informative, but often ultimately disappointing because few of us have a plasma cutter and CNC machine to hand. Even in this video, building a kit from ordered parts, you've casually CNC'd some components.
You say the frame has to be square that's why you check everytime, but what do you do if it's not at the end ? And clearly your's is not, just have a look at 11:50, visible on the table and on the top of the frame, it's not aligned
Great video, but a few thoughts. 1. The recommended dragchains are very undersized for the number of wires used, bend radius is a bit too agressive as well, needs to be redesigned to use slightly larger ones, or simply go to a canbus from the start. 2. Electronics, buyer beware when purchasing electrical components from aliexpress or amazon, more often than not they are misslabeled to look better than they are, one common such item is ssr's they are routinely misslabeled to look like they are rated at spec when its just a sticker.. Be mindful of laws and regulations of where you live regarding electronics. 3. Make damn sure that you know what youre doing when fiddling with electrical wiring, measure every connection for continuity and resistance before going live. Electronics are easy to get right but can be lethal if you make a misstake. The resistance measurements are important, dont skip them, a bad connection will most likely heat up and possibly start a fire, dont expect a fuse to save you. 4. Health hazards in the use-case of fdm is generally hyperbolic online, which is almost as bad as understating them. Yes theres offgassing when printing, will it harm you? Not really, at least not for consumer grade filaments and scale. im pretty certain noone watching are handling pom or acetals, which actually are dangerous. Most risks arise when you machine, sand or burn the plastics, for which you should use proper ppe. As for pla, petg, abs etc, you will most likely be dead long before those particulates will start bothering you. More likely from the toxic foods, or poisonous dyes in your clothing etc etc.. Use some common sense, open a window, dont huff any fumes coming from the machine, dont use it in a living area like your bedroom, and try not to eat the filament. With regards, a plastic injection worker. P.s not meant to belittle or be confrontational, just dampening the existential dread thats going around online. Feel free to disagree.
I was thinking, what if you have a stationary bed. Then the zx axis on just the two motors as in the Cartesian, but you move the entire zx axis gantry along the y axis. Then take the other two motors and add a second zx gantry that can now move independent of the other on the y axis. I would try to make the each zx gantry assembly's idex. Then try to make a tool head that can change it's angel towards the y axis; opposite it's homing corner. Then you could hopefully put two rotary axis on bother ends of y and add a belt printing feature. Or just a rotary axis on the middle of the stationary build plate. Beef everything up, use a duet board, and a tool change system for CNC, Lazer, etc. Steeling the idea from the new Bambu labs printer. Use lidar for bed tramming/ leveling, flow rate compensation, and active vibration cancelling. But you could also use the rotary axis and the lidar scanner to 3d scan items for either additive or subtractive manufacturing. Someone please read this
What I am wondering, is it really so recomanable to by a kit? Every single one I could find was in the 800 to over 1000 euro range. Which is extreamly expensive considering that pretty good fdm printers are priced at abou 400-600 euros.
51:30 can´t you just common ground them and remove half of the wires? I made a build quite a few years back where it was really important to have minimum amount of cables. The solution was to have a X-Y+A-B cable. Where X+A powers one thing, X+B a other, and so on. Then pole switching from low ground to high ground added a other 4 features. Using diods for the part that was not natural dioding (like LED) Of cause this might not really be possible with the stepper motor because it need to be quick and also have pole switching. Also that mandate a custom control board.
Kinda surprised someone like yourself with the machines and capabilities haven't done a rat rig in all machine parts and put it in a heated chamber. The community already has the printer (ratrig/voron) just need someone to step and make the files for subtractive manufacturing of the 3d parts and put and insualted box around it that can do 100°c
In recent years 3D printing has come a long way, and snapmaker is leading the pack. our new line of 3D printers uses PLA Filament, which is made from renewable resources like cornstarch or sugarcane.
u are my new hero! that is insane how cool u make it! and that's so nice u will give it like gift for school! u are the best! i mean to buy one of printer but im not sure em i able to make every thing to work briliant like in your case.. so probabli i will just buy my first 3D alredy asembled. and question at end - du u want to sell one Voron 2.4 your work just stuck in my eye
I own a Two Tree core XY printer.( one of the cheapest core XY on the market ). I willnever come back to moving bed, it is so much faster, and no ringing problem due to bed inertia on Y The core XY can handle so much more acceleration
Any news on new smaller pellet replacement 3D heads using like cheap vacuum cleaner hose line for the side container storage.. I like the triple drill heat tip 0.6.. any pellets with carbon fiber?
Thank you very, very much for this detailed video. What a tremendous amount of work this must have been. I own a CR-10S and got a serious itch to build a Voron2 now 🤩
I'm glad I found my old first gen raspberry pi to use as my alternative was a whole damn desktop server (might still switch back to that though as I can also control my other printers with it as well
instead of using single core silicone rubber wire, get like an 4/6/8 core silicone rubber cable. A proper brand will have teflon powder surrounding every core and will reduce wear and tear on each core.
Excellent work! You did a great job of boiling down the most confusing parts about the VORON ecosystem into a concise explanation. Glad you’re enjoying the machines and kudos on donating some VORONs to education. Hope they serve them well.
It means a lot coming from the OG! Your (and the team's) designs are top notch and I look forward to building more Voron printers in the future.
price tho guys common! use your potential purchasing power to reduce the cost to end user. Everything voron is beautiful, list kits in general are a great thing but raw costs on individual parts for the single consumer to build anything these days is such an expensive route often far greater than the respective shipping, storage,sorting fees you would have to pass on to us poor poor big dreaming makers.
Much love.
There is a market opportunity for a sourcing company to make high-quality kits for popular voron builds with pre-greased rails and quality inspected components. A reliable one-stop-shop in the US could do well.
@@DrDFlo 3a
Amazing work. So detailed! I’ve been trying to avoid spending time I don’t have building a Voron, but…… I may have to 😂
You have to! It will benefit you and all the community
***do it***
Lol
Wow! Very well done and thorough video. You really did your homework on this one. I'm pretty sure this is going to become recommended viewing in the Voron Community. I built one of these a few months ago and am really happy with it. I have enough parts to build a second one but the Voron Trident was just introduced the other day and I am tempted to head off in that direction next. (RonC V2.1134)
The other thing that is worth noting, with the discord server and various groups Voron related, you actually get more support with this than most (if not basically all) main stream 3d printers.
Great video, and wonderful that you are donating these printers to a school. Would love to see a follow up, as to what they come up with! Thank you
You can’t grease linear rails like that though. They have a rubber wiper on both ends to prevent any dust and debris getting in. The proper way to grease linear rails is to take the carriage off and grease the bearings in it as well as the rail to prevent corrosion
Don't make any changes to the steps/mm or rotation_distance, whichever you're using, in your firmware based on those measurements of the calibration cube. ABS shrinks. If you print it in PLA, you'll have 30mm on X and Y. ABS will always be slightly undersized after it cools
Those eyebrow idlers also provide more strength by increasing the wall count around the mount holes.
Pretty simple explain about the belt motion is examing the right triangle shape with equal side and pythagorean formula. Core XY move fast cause they moving in the hypotenuse direction that mean moving as quicker as in c^2=a^2+b^2. You can see hypotenuse c is much greater compare to a and b side of the triangle when moving in diaginal. You may thought then if they move only a or b side will slower down but turn out they use 2 motor so the overall speed up. Like I mention they are moving like right triangle shape with equal size of a=b then when ever the motor turn in theoretical the belt will pull the hotend a displacement of a=b
Speaking of connector names... the things you were calling 'Molex' connectors were really Dupont connectors. Molex are much beefier and have recessed plastic interlocks. Dupont are the little pin-socket connectors like they use for LED strip connectors or PCB pins.
Like the way you build it bro. amazing when you smile also while doing this.
Really nicely done video, clearly explained :) thanks for taking the time to document this!
Appreciate it! When are you going to share some more details about that IDX build of yours?? 😜
@@DrDFlo Soon! Hardest part was cleaning up my work area to be able to do the livestream last weekend, now it's just doing the video :D
@@DrDFlo Please make video about semi auto M6 (manual tool change) on grbl.
You're great man. I live in a small rural are and tried to donate stem stuff and was greeted with malice and suspicion. I have no idea why your channel has t blown up. I suspect the d-flo thing has something to do with it. My friends have called me j-stro since the late 90s hahaha
Gates belts makes an app that lets you measure tension using an app on your phone to measure frequency when you pluck the belt. Might be useful!
the voron community also has a tension meter that one can use to tensions the belts equally
Great video! So here's a blooper, at 13:05. Removes the carriage from the linear rail and loses a load of ball bearings onto the desk :) BE CAREFUL when taking the carriage off the rails. The bearings WILL fall out. Even one lost ball bearing will mess up your rail.
Great video. As someone who built a V2 this year, I appreciate all the explanation you do that would have helped a newbie during my build process. I do slightly disagree with how strictly you say you need to follow all the part sourcing as there are many people running non-spec parts, but for someone doing this for the first time, it's probably best they do everything perfectly to spec.
Coming from someone who has built the V2, I am glad that you see value in the topics I picked. There are still a lot of small things you will learn here and there when you build.
Regarding the BOM recommendations, that was more for the newcomer because it really slows down the build process if you have a couple parts that you tried to get a good deal on but they turn out not to fit...
@@DrDFlo Even your explanations of how each component functions and comes into play (for example the benefits of linear rails or why there is still a Z- endstop switch) were very good points to bring up. I'll definitely be sending this to friends who are interested in building one as a good "here's what you should know before you decide"
@@Katman77 Totally agree. This should be titled “Everything you wanted to know about VORON and a lot more you didn’t even know you wanted to know”.
I'm trying to click the subscribe button again until I realize I've already subscribed. :D
Very cool! Looks like I need to invest in some linear rails! Also I really like the electronics mounting system - so tidy!
Yes very smart… will definitely adapt that to my OTTO build. Way better than my tray idea. Lol!
The absolute smartest choice for a main-board to use in a Voron is the one that you already have laying around.
good tip, thanks. you just saved me $250 on a Duet. I'll use my BTT Duet clone instead.
@@Welcome2TheInternet btt isn't a duet clone.
Glad you liked AB-BN! give Badnoob a ping if you're on the discord server.
I just want to thank you. It is Very nice tutorial.
The worst thing putting Voron together : When something goes wrong (doesn't fit, misehaves), you want to blame "the kit", the disain, the parts seller... Pretty much anyone else.... And Then you remember : it's all you :D You made the mistake, you have to troubleshoot it and you have to fix it. "Why didn't i just buy a new 3d printer" passed my mind couple of times :D
That Voron is missing the Nevermore Duo under the bed for dealing with the fumes from ABS, since the stock exhaust filter is not enough.
as well as hepa filter in exhaust
Me: Barely has time for anything
Also me: An hour of pure information? I've got time for this.
I'm in this comment.
Aye. And not even planning to build Voron in the nearest future...
@@SebGruch same
Did you forget the thermal fuse on the build plate, or did I just miss it elsewhere in the build? Voron specs great SSRs, but they can still fail of course and not having a thermal fuse may leave you open to mains voltage bed heating runaway and potential fire, even when the machine is sitting idle.
I believe the Fermio Labs mats come with a "self resetting thermostat" which will turn the heater off if it gets into a thermal runaway, and then reset. I wish we had a company like Fermio in the US that had some of these more custom parts ready to go. I believe you can custom order this stuff direct from Keenovo, but it's more of a hassle and a bit more stressful making sure we do not spec something incorrectly.
I had a bit of hard time sourcing the build plate and had to get one a little bigger and without the slots for easier mounting.
@@CodeMonkeX You're correct. They'll just ensure that your heater stay on at around 150c until you notice it. I'm actually the one who got the SK-GO creator to remove them on his kits last year and replace them with real thermal fuses that are replaceable. Those bi-metal thermostats aren't particularly reliable and at that point it's the only thing between you and a thermal runaway. With external power surges being one of the main causes of SSR failure I'd be wary, especially with Voron spec'ing a medium time fuse on the AC input. Imagine being on vacation for a week and a surge makes the SSR fail while you're gone. You're now just hoping that the constant cycling of the thermostat doesn't wear out before you get back and notice it. IMO a thermostat is an improper replacement for a fuse as it doesn't actually stop the problem, but rather attempt to make it safer which is likely why the team specs a real thermal fuse.
I like you post this and they post Trident.
I know what are the chances... Making my graphics already obsolete
What is "trident"?
@@misteragony It is the next iteration of the Voron 1 line of printers. The Dev group is going from numbers to names because as I pointed out in the video the numbering scheme is confusing, but changing the name so late in process could lead to more people getting their wires crossed.
I’m not sure how much I believe that one or a pair of MGN9 rails would be less strong compared the aluminum and V-Wheels, especially on something like a CNC Router. Also, I’d love to see what a Voron 2.X would be like using machine tools to create many of its parts instead of plain t-slot aluminum extrusions and mostly printed parts with tiny MGN rails (asides from far more massive costs of course).
Even I didn't get the point.
How can Plastic wheels on extrusion be stronger than hardened steel rails?
dude your video on 3d printer building is epic....no one I know has that much info on the topic on youtube in there entire channel in the amount of detail you put into it....totally loved that video. As with your content being quiet long I do love when you put out content.
I have an honest question here so please don't false me or don't insults: How do you make money with these things? I suspect i just look at it from a very different perspective but all the trinkets and novelty items i see people printing off are never the kind of things i would even imagine buying. Everything i print off or design has a definitive and utilitarian role and other than maybe a lamp i can't imagine putting some 3d printed item up as decoration. At best i can see it being used for rapid prototyping and if people need it for that why would they use someone else for that instead of just doing it themselves? I honestly respect anyone who can make an income 3d printing and wish i could figure out how to do it myself.
If you want a reliable inductive probe, just use a spare power switch and turn it on only for tramming. Without this, it failed in two weeks; with it, it works for more than a year now.
Interesting. A Core XY printer built like a Delta! Belts are definitely better!
this is awesome content. really good. the first professional video about assembling a voron. there are great videos and streams but those are hours over hours and very tedious to watch through. I love this video and instantly shared it with a lot of people
---
but what is up with the fps? is it just 24fps or is my youtube broke? this is giving me a headache.
that x/y extrusion issue reminds me of running the rigging for storm sails wrong, right before the storm. then you think, why dont i just hire a captain to sail the boat? ROFLMFAO
Hello sir....i really look forward to watching your videos. I want to be like you when i grow up....I'm 66 years old now..... :-) :-)
instead of destroying the housing of a perfectly good blower fan, why not ... redesign the housing? or at least give it a trim?
This is, hands down, the best video I've seen regarding V2.4 or just Vorons in general. I'll be bookmarking this to give to anyone who asks about building one. Great work!
I laughed when I saw that you have to zip tie a component together -- then what's the point of having a 3D printer? The amount of money people invested to a Voron is much greater than a few screws or inserts.
If the wire are too small for the crimper (or even the contacts) you are using then just double up the wire in the crimp. The extra wire will take up the space.
Outstanding review as always. Love the detailed analysis.
Very good video - ordered a V0.1 to try hopefully a simpler build as I n00b. By the way did you notice that your middle voron at the end the hotend fan was stopping and starting? Might wanna check that! Also donating them is an amazing thing, my school has XYZ 3d printers and they are not great quality and hideously slow. I'd so love to get some vorons for that school!!!!
Nice video! I watched the entire thing! I was hoping you might cover the bed leveling and z offset a bit? I also commend you for pointing out the risks with nanoparticles and off gassing. People seem to disregard that and I cringe when i see people saying they run these machines in their bedroom, etc. I think I would lean towards fireproof panels (UL 94) over acrylic, just being safety minded as I am. Good job!
They're DIY machines. Of course they're in their bedrooms, where else would they be? Not everyone has a garage...
Great guide!
I don’t just understand why nobody can just pre-build these and sale assembled . 3d printing world could be changed so easy and be an even bigger market is someone just came in and simplified the hole process and all steps needed . Should never be like this idea of Voron . Every thing can be so simplified , like where nobody (beginners etc…) should ever have to mess with coding or nothing , just replacement of mechanical failed parts. Should be much like a component of a PC . You just need to update firmware just by downloading it and inserting it, no coding to adjust or change . Just a simple download . Should be 80% + manufacture assembled out of the box . Something like the Artillery x1 sidewinder but even better and easier processes . Not to mention the X1 sidewinder is quite the printer at that and we need more systems and printer setups out there like it , but even more simplified for the consumers.
Of all printers to choose from to push that sentiment upon, why would you pick the one designed by enthusiasts, self sourced and with one of the most complex build processes. It's like complaining that you have to write code to get anything fun out of an IDE, it's not meant for random home users lol. I agree with your idea but it's just funny since this is intended to be the opposite of a Sidewinder.
Hey David, excellent video (as always!)
I'm in the process of building a HevORT 3D printer. It's going to be a tad bit bigger than yours at 565mm x 565mm x 590mm. Let me know if you need full-sized, one piece traffic cones printed...
I went with the HevORT since I could easily (more or less) scale the size to what I wanted. Also, I like the ballscrew/wobblewings approach to bed leveling, the support for bigger motors, it's beefiness, and the option for non-planar printing.
There's some serious drawbacks to my build, including the higher price of the parts, availability of those parts, and where to put the darn thing once I'm finished with it. And the frame "efficiency" is woeful compared to the Voron. Far more dead space in it.
Going that big caused problems finding places that even sold parts in the sizes that I needed, including 700mm long ball screws, 800mm long rails, and a 1000mm long, 20mm 20mm square carbon fiber tube (the rails and the tube will have to be cut, it isn't that big). The heated bed plate is 23.25" x 23.25" 1/4" ATP 5. MIC6 would have been a better material choice, but it's 2x the cost. And I won't start printing until things are heated up in any case, so expansion will be accounted for. I can always switch to MIC6 later if need be. I'll just be sure to mount the plate so that it floats.
The X & Y axes are going to be driven by Teknic servos, which will require 12mm belts. And the frame is made out of 3030 rather than 2020. I ordered the frame parts pre-cut from 8020.net, and they were pretty much spot-on with their cuts. With all of them either on the money, or within a millimeter. The price wasn't bad, $0.27 per inch, and $2.12 per cut. I highly recommend them. I'm looking into welding the frame together (why not?) since I'm shooting for some pretty high speeds with those servos.
In any case, another great build, and there are going to be some lucky kids getting to use some awesome printers!
Respect, you were on the Voron train before it became trendy
great video! thank you! what are the average speeds you use in your makes provided with good quality? will delta (e.g. flsun v400) print faster than voron 2.4 (with same quality)?
Screw the Voron! I want that Epsilon W50!
totally inspiring, im gonna order my first 3d printer in a few days and once i get used to how 3d printers work im going to build my own !! thanks for the awesome content
Great video on the Voron V2.4. Nicely compressed, days of live streams are a bit much. The recently released Trident is getting a lot of interest now.
Ratrig 3d printer looks cooler and 500X500X500mm 🤔
nobody has ever had fun with dry balls.
note that wire current ratings need to be degraded inside a heated enclosure and drag chain, though you should probably be fine, but you might want to look at the temperature on the wires after like an hour at the maximum temp you wanna print at.
Excellent video : )
Just a small correction or clarification to the extruder drive intel.
Galileo uses larger drive gears than Clockwork but smaller than LGX.
Clockwork uses Bondtech BMG's 1.75/5.0mm drive gears.
Galileo uses Bondtech QR's 1.75/8.0mm drive gears (or the new shorter drive gears supplied by Bondtech to LDO).
Bondtech LGX uses the new 1.75/18mm drive wheels.
I've been referencing your video frequently as I put my 2.4 together. Love your smile, good looks, the way you talk and explain things. Looking forward to more content :)
Cool video. But I see no point in Raven if you print at speeds that Ender 3 easily allows with the same quality of finished parts.
How much did it cost you when you made this video and how much would it cost now to make?
Thank you for posting this! I was looking into this printer and this will be super helpful when building one!
You managed to summarize all the most important parts of the build in a much more precise and digestible way than the 12+ hour livestreams. Subscribed
Can I create the 3d printer using an Arduino mega board
I dont need another printer but I really want to build one of these!!! I need to talk someone I know into buying one :)
im also using a duet- a duet3+ mini with the expansion board. Im fine with it being plug and play instead of having to deal with a raspi.
Might build one of these some day, just got WAY too much other things I got to get done first. One thing I think that would help is a small HEPA filter in addition to the activated carbon to remove at least some of the small particles. I personally designed and made a filter for my printer using activated carbon pre-filters and Roomba HEPA filters. No idea how effective it truly is but it's probably be better than nothing.
You have a design you can share or a link?
@@wayneyandell549 I never published it, but it's based off of the filter on thing:4054734 on Thingieverse, they also put up an assembly guide on YT: ruclips.net/video/h7VDLeoQBYQ/видео.html&ab_channel=CarstenDalgaard
Same idea as their filter and enclosure. I just modified their design to make the enclosure bigger for my custom 5015 effector, but the principle is the same, i just changed it to work with my enclosure dimensions and used larger fans.
@@wayneyandell549 Actually NVM I did put it up on Thingieverse, I guess I just forgot: thing:4657322 It was just the door for the enclosure I didn't get around to publishing.
4:11 loooool badly aged sentence on this channel 😂😂😂
I think it is very awesome that you are donating the printers!! Greetings from Argentina.
Easy when you get everything for free.
Mhh... IMHO, recommending the *SwitchWire* kinda defeats the purpose of building a Voron unless you're building one from used parts off another printer supplying most of the parts.
If you build new, either self-sourced or kit based, then really you should go with either a V0, Trident ( formerly V1 ) or V2 - Either of which I'd argue being more in line with the _"No Compromise"_ claim Voron sells itself on which a _Bedflinger_ SwitchWire kinda doesn't fit into. With them instead being a _CoreXY_ System you're getting a more capable motion system AND a more compact one on top of that. My 210Y Prusa i3 MK3S requires about 550mm of Y-Space to operate - The same my 350Y sized V2.4 requires - Yea... Bedflinger space requirements are _that_ bad requiring _at least_ twice their Y-Print Depth to operate - A 350 sized one wouldn't even fit anymore in my 600mm deep closet.
And then there's the thing with the changing mass of a Y-Axis Bedflinger as a print grows - Ppl running Vorons get _really_ hung up on Resonance Calibrating their X and Y axis to get rid of ringing for fast printing but consider printing a huge, almost print volume filling, part ( i.imgur.com/sN2w7Rg.jpeg ) and you're looking at roughly 2-300g of unaccounted weight for that wasn't present while you calibrated your machine. That's a _nonexistent problem_ for a CoreXY as the two X and Y Axis never change mass ( other than 2g of filament feeding into the toolhead 😏 ).
Just my CHF 0.50 😁
HI dear, what is full cost of this machine please? Best regards.
Great videos! btw...in a future video, can you list some DMLS and/or EBEAM 3D metal printers/kits that might be within reach of small shops or seasoned hobbyists(?) Plastic 3Ds great but a lot of folks also have metal needs :)
I would love to review one of those printers on my channel. However, the metal powder is quite hazardous though and may forever be out of the reach of a hobbyist because you need very special powder handling instruments to prevent explosions and inhalation.
@@DrDFlo - Can definitely see how certain metal powders (especially aluminum) could be risky. Given safety issues surrounding DMLS systems, perhaps EBEAM (or something similar) is the better way to go. Will be interesting to see if anyone can come up with an (ultra) entry-level EBEAM offering in the next couple years!
Awesome video, I'll be using this as a reference. Do you have the STL for the alignment tool you use for mounting the linear rails?
It's in the V2.4 files
There are ways mitigate z-wobble though.
You don't fix stopper on your DIN rails ? to block all components ?
When he said it makes you wonder why your building one instead of buying one.... I can't relate but I bought an ender 5 plus and after 2 weeks already having to replace a bu ch if stuff so I'm wondering why I bought one instead of just building one
I’m from the CNC world, Hiwins are not premium rails lol. BOSCH or NSK are your premium brands dude. Apart from that, great video!!!
I would love to try all these printers...but how do work and have time to assebly printers. And if you don't work how do you buy one. Unless you're born with a lot of time and money you just end up feeling a little sad.
I got my work place to buy the epsilon W50 along with the smart cabinet, we as use CF15 material and that printer does not disappoint!
Great vid and very helpful.
You mention being able to make adjustments to improve dimensional accuracy... what would this be?
Look at Teaching Tech's video on improving dimensional accuracy by fine tuning the step count on the X, Y, and Z axis. You need an accurate dial guage to accomplish this.
D - you went from clean shaven to full beard on this one.
giving you the like, click sub. The least I can do
You deserve more
Always go overboard like a true DIY guy and use air bearings and/or electromagnetic linear motors... :D :D :D
can i ask you why you building that printer if you have the better one from matter hacker ? the big one
“Abs wasn’t just chosen for it’s heat deflection temperature. It was also picked for its high tensile strength and CHEMCIAL resistance”
I can’t think of a filament material with worse chemical resistance than abs. Lol that stuff breaks down at the sight of xylene, toluene, acetone, and even weakens with mineral spirits.
I’d recommend colorfabb ht or xt. You could also use polycarbonate if you have a capable printer.
I was talking about oil and grease. If you have xylene, toluene or any of those solvents near your printer then you are going to have more problems than just your ABS parts degrading. Polycarbonate is very brittle when printed. Not recommended for Voron parts
All of the solvents mentioned have there place in various bed adhesives. When these bed adhesives are used (most commonly acetone + xylene + abs aka. Abs slurry) the vapors are cooked off when the bed is heated. These vapors WILL slowly degrade all abs parts. If you don’t plan on printing abs or asa that’s one thing but I don’t like limiting what I can and cannot print.
Unless you’re using petroleum based products directly on your plastic parts, Oil and grease isn’t gonna degrade anything so mentioning that isn’t really of any use.
Also, polycarbonate can be printed with a heated chamber and come out ok, or you can get various pro or plus products which have been formulated specifically for printing. Just like any filament polycarbonate requires calibration.
The only point I was really trying to make is that abs is the least resistant to chemicals of any filament out there. (Excluding isopropyl smoothing filaments and dissolvable supports)
I appreciate your thorough response. And I admit chemical resistance was a poor choice of wording.
But you should not point people towards polycarbonate by acting like ABS is going to degrade due the vapors produced by common bed adhesives.
There are thousands of Voron printers and even more commercial ones that use ABS parts. I have not heard of a single example of vapor melting an ABS component beyond anything aesthetic (e.g., slightly smoother surface).
You can go to great lengths to print PC at the perfect conditions, but you will still end up with a part that is more brittle. A certain amount of flexibility is required so that the gantry does not snap when performing QGL
Very great job
I hope to make a video of how to install BTT UPS 24V V1.0 RESUME PRINTING for power losses recovery on the klipper
There is no explanation or video of how to install it on RUclips
Just spreading the grease on the rail and rolling the carriage doesn't really get the grease into the bearings very good. You should get a syringe and inject the grease into the holes on the ends of the carriage.
The eyebrows are the coolest part of the idlers! 😂
PTFE is worth every penny. You're building a $1500 printer. Silicone wire saves you like $50-$60 maybe.
You can run klipper on duet. 😉
Love all your videos, you're a great presenter. However, it's always a shame when you make use of all the amazing tools you have available. Your videos are hugely educational and informative, but often ultimately disappointing because few of us have a plasma cutter and CNC machine to hand. Even in this video, building a kit from ordered parts, you've casually CNC'd some components.
You say the frame has to be square that's why you check everytime, but what do you do if it's not at the end ? And clearly your's is not, just have a look at 11:50, visible on the table and on the top of the frame, it's not aligned
The wood table is warped. 20:30. Nothing is square. I hate this world.
So let me get this right: You got a large expensive 3D printer so you can print the parts for a smaller (cheaper) one..?
Great video, but a few thoughts.
1. The recommended dragchains are very undersized for the number of wires used, bend radius is a bit too agressive as well, needs to be redesigned to use slightly larger ones, or simply go to a canbus from the start.
2. Electronics, buyer beware when purchasing electrical components from aliexpress or amazon, more often than not they are misslabeled to look better than they are, one common such item is ssr's they are routinely misslabeled to look like they are rated at spec when its just a sticker..
Be mindful of laws and regulations of where you live regarding electronics.
3. Make damn sure that you know what youre doing when fiddling with electrical wiring, measure every connection for continuity and resistance before going live.
Electronics are easy to get right but can be lethal if you make a misstake.
The resistance measurements are important, dont skip them, a bad connection will most likely heat up and possibly start a fire, dont expect a fuse to save you.
4. Health hazards in the use-case of fdm is generally hyperbolic online, which is almost as bad as understating them.
Yes theres offgassing when printing, will it harm you?
Not really, at least not for consumer grade filaments and scale. im pretty certain noone watching are handling pom or acetals, which actually are dangerous.
Most risks arise when you machine, sand or burn the plastics, for which you should use proper ppe.
As for pla, petg, abs etc, you will most likely be dead long before those particulates will start bothering you.
More likely from the toxic foods, or poisonous dyes in your clothing etc etc..
Use some common sense, open a window, dont huff any fumes coming from the machine, dont use it in a living area like your bedroom, and try not to eat the filament.
With regards, a plastic injection worker.
P.s not meant to belittle or be confrontational, just dampening the existential dread thats going around online. Feel free to disagree.
I was thinking, what if you have a stationary bed. Then the zx axis on just the two motors as in the Cartesian, but you move the entire zx axis gantry along the y axis. Then take the other two motors and add a second zx gantry that can now move independent of the other on the y axis. I would try to make the each zx gantry assembly's idex. Then try to make a tool head that can change it's angel towards the y axis; opposite it's homing corner. Then you could hopefully put two rotary axis on bother ends of y and add a belt printing feature. Or just a rotary axis on the middle of the stationary build plate. Beef everything up, use a duet board, and a tool change system for CNC, Lazer, etc. Steeling the idea from the new Bambu labs printer. Use lidar for bed tramming/ leveling, flow rate compensation, and active vibration cancelling. But you could also use the rotary axis and the lidar scanner to 3d scan items for either additive or subtractive manufacturing. Someone please read this
What I am wondering, is it really so recomanable to by a kit? Every single one I could find was in the 800 to over 1000 euro range. Which is extreamly expensive considering that pretty good fdm printers are priced at abou 400-600 euros.
51:30 can´t you just common ground them and remove half of the wires?
I made a build quite a few years back where it was really important to have minimum amount of cables. The solution was to have a X-Y+A-B cable. Where X+A powers one thing, X+B a other, and so on. Then pole switching from low ground to high ground added a other 4 features. Using diods for the part that was not natural dioding (like LED)
Of cause this might not really be possible with the stepper motor because it need to be quick and also have pole switching. Also that mandate a custom control board.
Kinda surprised someone like yourself with the machines and capabilities haven't done a rat rig in all machine parts and put it in a heated chamber. The community already has the printer (ratrig/voron) just need someone to step and make the files for subtractive manufacturing of the 3d parts and put and insualted box around it that can do 100°c
In recent years 3D printing has come a long way, and snapmaker is leading the pack. our new line of 3D printers uses PLA Filament, which is made from renewable resources like cornstarch or sugarcane.
u are my new hero! that is insane how cool u make it! and that's so nice u will give it like gift for school! u are the best! i mean to buy one of printer but im not sure em i able to make every thing to work briliant like in your case.. so probabli i will just buy my first 3D alredy asembled. and question at end - du u want to sell one Voron 2.4 your work just stuck in my eye
I own a Two Tree core XY printer.( one of the cheapest core XY on the market ).
I willnever come back to moving bed, it is so much faster, and no ringing problem due to bed inertia on Y
The core XY can handle so much more acceleration
Any news on new smaller pellet replacement 3D heads using like cheap vacuum cleaner hose line for the side container storage.. I like the triple drill heat tip 0.6.. any pellets with carbon fiber?
Thank you very, very much for this detailed video. What a tremendous amount of work this must have been. I own a CR-10S and got a serious itch to build a Voron2 now 🤩
THANKS for not using a kit! :D
Hola buenas noches, como consigo esa pantalla touch, yo actualmente tengo una impresora FLSUN V400 con Klipper Vanilla podre usar el mismo Touch pad?
I'm glad I found my old first gen raspberry pi to use as my alternative was a whole damn desktop server (might still switch back to that though as I can also control my other printers with it as well
I want a buy a small 3d printer but I don't have enough money. In India it is way too expensive. Please send me the small one bro.
Love from India💓
instead of using single core silicone rubber wire, get like an 4/6/8 core silicone rubber cable. A proper brand will have teflon powder surrounding every core and will reduce wear and tear on each core.
@59:31. I'm new to Vorons. Is that clip standard? Is there a link to the CAD, STL or 3MF file? THX!