Have you considered adding a length rope to the anchor chain? When you buy a new chain you can choose to have rope spliced onto the end of the chain or you can learn to splice? Good video, thanks.
NEVER have your anchor chain directly attached to the boat, have a rope (about Half a metre known as the bitter end ) and a sharp knive in the chain locker. In case of emergency.
Great progress....it is my understanding that the "bitter end" last couple of feet of anchor rode are supposed to always be rope, not chain, so that if, God Forbid, you ever have to cut the anchor loose in a storm you can do it with a knife quickly (I know of people who actually PUT a knife down in the anchor locker on a little holder/bracket for that "just in case" eventuality.
It’s ok to be beginners at anchoring, everyone goes through it. This is overkill by about times 20, but like I said it’s normal to over think it. That’s what products like those are for. A mark every 10 meters is all you’ll ever need. And you don’t even need the first one at 10 meters because you’ll always have at least 20 meters out, minimum. Love the job you did on the tanks, very professional. No surprise you kinda missed this season on the new boat, but hey again, it’s just grand to be beginners. And with your talent it’s only gonna get better and easier. ❤
I used to use a little superglue to stick washer to nut making sure not to get into threads when in awkward situations on aircraft where you cant afford to drop anything. Love the work you’re doing on both vessels.
It is usual to attach the end of the anchor chain to a strong rope long enough to be visible on deck when fully deployed. Then if you have to let it go in an emergency you can cut the rope with a knife quickly rather than try to undo a rusted shackle with a fully loaded chain by your face as you lean in to the chain locker. Also having rope on the end of the chain acting as a shock absorber is kinder on the boat when at anchor.
great videeo guys just a point to consider for safety, your anchor chain is connected directly to the hull via a saddle, please remove that direct connection and replace it with a short lenght of nylon rode between the saddle and chain. The purpose of that is in case of emergency you can easily cut the rode to free the boat from a tangled stuck anchor and drive away, it also provides some shock ansorbtion if the chain was to be fully extended in a storm.
To get washers into remote locations like that, you can put a little bit of double-stick tape on the end of your socket to hold the washer as you drive in the nut.
This is a trick I have used to install stainless steel washers and nuts. Put the tap on the washer and press the nut to it. I would pick a hole with a nail or something through the washer tape on larger sizes. Put tapped washer and nut in the socket and Bob’s your uncle. Works great on overhead too.
Take your extension with the correct socket and put a piece of tape over the end and push the nut into the socket. It will lock it in place so you can take and reach that bolt.
RE: cleaning products/glassfibre. Use sugar soap to degrease and clean pretty much anything - spray bottles are a couple of quid in any diy store. The boat is made with polyester resin. The only stuff that sticks to polyester resin properly is polyester resin, which is a lot cheaper than epoxy. Always enjoy Ship Happens - Thanks for the videos.
A good idea is to remove the shackle from the end of the chain and boat and put a length of light rope (6mm) that is attached to the boat. Make sure it can come up to the capstan if you have to let the anchor go in a hurry or cut it. Make sure you have a buoy with a snap carabina to fit to the chain end for recovery if you have to dump it
I know many have already written, but yes, please add a short rope from the chain locker to the end of your chain. If it would foul you can cut the rope in an emergency.
Sadly now winter is just around the corner it looks like you and the family will have to wait until next year to have some rest and relaxation time with the new addition to the family, on the other hand I very much hope you get to spend at least a couple of good weather days in what’s left of the year, you deserve it 👍
Put some blue tac on a washer push the nut on the washer then put nut in socket and tighten the Blue tac will squeeze out may help youout some other time
You pair are right grafters and you thoroughly deserve everything you have in life, bc boy do you work for it. I didn't even know you two had another channel, you kept this quiet didn't you? Lol at least I've never heard you mention this channel before. Its only bc of YT algorithm that I know about it. It's been fascinating so far watching you get to this point in your project. These tanks have been a nightmare. Just at the point where you're installing them back in your boat. I hope it's all good now!?
Easy placement of washers is a tiny amount of sealant to "glue" it to the Fuel tank before it is set in place. Also, if you have problems getting your nut on the fuel tank on the port side just place a thin sheet of plastic over the socket, the push your nut into the plastic. Then you can be a meter or more away and still be able to thread your nut.
I see I'm not the first to notice. Its very important that there is a lashing between the fixing point and the chain. Ideally the lashing should be long enough to come out of your chain pipe so that in an emergency you can cut it.
Standard color code for anchor markings is Red, Yellow, Blue, White, green. Best way to remember it is "rub your balls with grease". They had the order marked on the back of the package. Love your videos!
well, at least there seems to be a standard! As an electrical Engineer, but not a sailor, I was about to suggest black, brown, red, orange, yellow green, blue, violet or purple, grey, white. Still, I soon realised that these colours, representing numbers from zero to 10, have the fatal drawback that in poor light some are hard to tell apart. The scheme you describe has the clear advantage of using clearly distinct colours, and may even work for folk who are red-green colourblind!. The scheme the ship happens adventurers used looks odd by any standard at all - especially considering you may need to see them in poor light. If there is a standard, maybe it should be used in case a crew member familiar with the standard should join them on a trip.
Wow guys! The tanks came out AMAZING!! For the washers, could you use a bit of tape to "attach" the washer to the nut, then install with your mega-extension socket?
Tanks a are looking awesome, you saved a pretty penny and kept them out of landfill. I would fibreglass a brace into the underneath of that cut out deck section, a piece of composite decking or something like that then you have piece of mind.
Great work!! You need a claw-type pickup tool to manage those stainless washers. Also, as a precaution, I'd wrap the connection between the socket and each extension so you don't accidentally knock anything loose, like your _only_ 14mm socket, and have it drop into the abyss! I had that happen on a car I was working on, the socket dropped down between the firewall and inner fender liner, and it took two days, an endoscope to fine it, and magnetic pick up tool to retrieve it!
For future reference when I am aced with that problem putting 2 nuts in the socket and the washer on top then a small piece of masking or painters tape to hold it is allows you to get the washer on and first nut started and if you do it right the tape will pull off of the washer leaving no trace of the trick.
You can put a bit ov grease on the end of your socket to get the washers on then if your socket is too deep pack the inside with a bit ov foam or even a tissue garage hack 👍🏼😎👍🏼
Hi Guys , i have been watching both channels religiously every week and just notice a very familiar type of vessel at 2 min into this video , A Breed class rescue vessel 12-15 , we have quiet a few that our National Sea Rescue Institute (NSRI) bought many years ago from the RNLI , I served on one at the NSRI here in Port Elizabeth South Africa (station 6) for about 10 years ,they are the most amazing vessels (Also wood), it would be great if you could do a video visiting one of their bases as they do such an important job for the community, Good luck with both your channels and keep up the great work, kind regards Ryan
should have used a wooden stick with some blu tack on the end to put the washers on...you also need more than those 2 little bits of fibre glass.. that Deck piece is part of the Structure of the boat and it will flex like hell unless you make it Strong Especially when you are walking on the "Deck"...
Easy way, take a piece of napkin, lay the piece over the socket make sure it covers the whole socket . Press your nut over and into the socket. The nut will not slip out. Use nuts with the nylon insert negating the need for regular our lock washers.
In situations with stainless steel like this, I use a little super glue to glue the washer to the nut and the nut to the socket. Once you thread the nut and washer and tighten down the nut the super glue breaks free and you can pull the socket wrench free.
BOAT = Bust Out Another Thousand. They're a lot of fun but can require a lot of maintenance. Of course so does my dump truck, excavator, motorcycles, Jeep, campground etc. Tough not being rich. Tis the life we live. My motto is " It's always something ".
Simon is my hero because he can install two fuel tanks and still have clean hands. Worse than the fuel tanks?! Propeller and shaft? More than that? Yikes.
My suggestion for the washer was SS welding rod tiny spot of hot glue or silicone holding the washer in place until the nut breaks or crushes the glue? You could attach it to a length of cotton in case you needed to retrieve it.
G'day m8s an G'day Richard. Unreal banana peel, close to splash for Richard to Certify Boutari for goin on the water without him 😉 Hope to the bloke out there fishing with you sometime soon. Boutari is a beaut and she'll be even better when you finish with her.
Three boatchannels for me today..sailing Yaba..Sampson boat co with TallyHo and last but not least you guys the Sarinda couple working on their fast motorboat. Great input for me..thanks
As a general rule, the amount of chain should be around the length of the boat. OK so far, you appear to have maybe twice that. But the amount of rode (the chain or rope connecting the boat to the anchor) that lies on the bottom when you are at anchor should be around four times the depth of water in calm conditions, which includes the height of the anchor connection to the boat.. As you can see, you have only a very limited depth at which you can safely anchor. It you anchored in only 10metres of water, you would need 44 (depth of water plus height to bow roller x 4)metres out, which may be already more than is there. If the conditions are other than calm, you might need up to 10 times the depth of water. I would also suggest that you connect the chain to the head of the stock by a weak link, with a solid connection to the end nearest the flukes. If your anchor becomes jammed in the seabed in some way, the link will fail and the anchor can be pulled out backwards. You could also look up how to use an alderney ring.
How many layers of fiberglass did you put on the repair. You only show one. Should be 3 or more. Next, when anchoring (over nite, in current, or in heavy weather), the ratio is 7:1, which means, for 1 meter depth, you need to have 7 meters of chain. 10 meter depth, 70 meters of chain.
Lay out a piece of plastic film and some precut prefitted peal off material. And your multi later fiber glass mats. Then stick the whole patch in place . If you are doing patches from the bottom. Precut a block of foam to hold the patch in place.
Great job with the tanks. Like new. On your anchor's bitter end. Take the shackle off. Put in a length of rope. That way if you have an emergency. You can cut your anchor loose. Sad to hear there are more problems. Take care. Cheers.
Needs more fibreglass! If you think about it, right at the cuts in the original, which is where stresses will now be concentrated, you replaced fibreglass about a 1/4 inch thick with the new glass about 2mm thick, or less! You can spread the stresses by grinding out a V to either side of the cut, all the way to the bottom, and at least 2 inches from the cut where you can (the curvy bits might be a bit difficult to do that, but as wide as you can there) Then laminate fibreglass into your V, sand it down to keep it just below the original level then apply gel coat for the top finish. It would be prettier to have ground the V out from the bottom, but I can see that would have been a right PITA to do in the limited space, and you've already glassed the bottom anyway. A couple more layers on the bottom wouldn't hurt either of course! Good luck with it all.
If you have that problem with nuts or washers, put the nut in the socket, smear the face of the socket with grease and stick the washer on the front, great vlogs
The washers you could of put in place with long reach long nose pliers end the nuts you could of put paper in socket till the nut fitted just in end then put grease in end of socket to hold nut from falling out From andy in devon
just watching Gemma lift those tanks on to the van roof....what a sturdy wee lass she is
Have you considered adding a length rope to the anchor chain? When you buy a new chain you can choose to have rope spliced onto the end of the chain or you can learn to splice? Good video, thanks.
NEVER have your anchor chain directly attached to the boat, have a rope (about Half a metre known as the bitter end ) and a sharp knive in the chain locker. In case of emergency.
Great progress....it is my understanding that the "bitter end" last couple of feet of anchor rode are supposed to always be rope, not chain, so that if, God Forbid, you ever have to cut the anchor loose in a storm you can do it with a knife quickly (I know of people who actually PUT a knife down in the anchor locker on a little holder/bracket for that "just in case" eventuality.
This boat stuff is like decorating the hall through the letterbox.
Sure is! Nothing is every easy to access!
Gemma you are awesome! Most blokes could’nt lift like that!!!
It’s ok to be beginners at anchoring, everyone goes through it. This is overkill by about times 20, but like I said it’s normal to over think it. That’s what products like those are for. A mark every 10 meters is all you’ll ever need. And you don’t even need the first one at 10 meters because you’ll always have at least 20 meters out, minimum. Love the job you did on the tanks, very professional. No surprise you kinda missed this season on the new boat, but hey again, it’s just grand to be beginners. And with your talent it’s only gonna get better and easier. ❤
I used to use a little superglue to stick washer to nut making sure not to get into threads when in awkward situations on aircraft where you cant afford to drop anything. Love the work you’re doing on both vessels.
It is usual to attach the end of the anchor chain to a strong rope long enough to be visible on deck when fully deployed. Then if you have to let it go in an emergency you can cut the rope with a knife quickly rather than try to undo a rusted shackle with a fully loaded chain by your face as you lean in to the chain locker. Also having rope on the end of the chain acting as a shock absorber is kinder on the boat when at anchor.
great videeo guys just a point to consider for safety, your anchor chain is connected directly to the hull via a saddle, please remove that direct connection and replace it with a short lenght of nylon rode between the saddle and chain. The purpose of that is in case of emergency you can easily cut the rode to free the boat from a tangled stuck anchor and drive away, it also provides some shock ansorbtion if the chain was to be fully extended in a storm.
Thank you so much for this tip, we will do that for sure! Xx
Shock cord would be even better for reducing impact of chain onto attachment points.
Absolutely.
@@Dave5843-d9m not strong enough
To get washers into remote locations like that, you can put a little bit of double-stick tape on the end of your socket to hold the washer as you drive in the nut.
a dab of thick krazy glue will also work
A dab of grease works really well also.
I kept yelling "Take your jacket off, then reach!" But you didn't hear me 😢.
This is a trick I have used to install stainless steel washers and nuts. Put the tap on the washer and press the nut to it. I would pick a hole with a nail or something through the washer tape on larger sizes. Put tapped washer and nut in the socket and Bob’s your uncle. Works great on overhead too.
Red rubber grease is wonderfully sticky but won’t rot gaskets or harden (some) plastics like ordinary bearing grease can do.
Love your work, great effort, you deserve to enjoy your boat.
Take your extension with the correct socket and put a piece of tape over the end and push the nut into the socket. It will lock it in place so you can take and reach that bolt.
blutac on the socket is the answer to unreachable bolts, nuts, washers etc
Cork isolation pads under tha tanks! God job 😊
The tanks are better today than they did when they were brand new. Well done👍
nice vid that was guys nice to see your getting the boat sorted
Anchor Right is a great idea, easy and simple.
RE: cleaning products/glassfibre.
Use sugar soap to degrease and clean pretty much anything - spray bottles are a couple of quid in any diy store.
The boat is made with polyester resin. The only stuff that sticks to polyester resin properly is polyester resin, which is a lot cheaper than epoxy.
Always enjoy Ship Happens - Thanks for the videos.
Very neat and clean install, and those are really nice tanks! Hope that issue you spoke of isn't too difficult.
A good idea is to remove the shackle from the end of the chain and boat and put a length of light rope (6mm) that is attached to the boat. Make sure it can come up to the capstan if you have to let the anchor go in a hurry or cut it. Make sure you have a buoy with a snap carabina to fit to the chain end for recovery if you have to dump it
I know many have already written, but yes, please add a short rope from the chain locker to the end of your chain. If it would foul you can cut the rope in an emergency.
I always fit some anchor ⚓️ rope at end of rode and then thick bungy from end of rope to eyelet in anchor locker just in case
I think I would have bolted an aluminium or HW Timber beam under the deck hatch partition as a belt and braces reinforcement
The Mersey lifeboat on the hard next to you could always be the next project
BOAT...aka ....Bring Out Another Thousand....but not necessary with these guys.....keep on keeping it real 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Sadly now winter is just around the corner it looks like you and the family will have to wait until next year to have some rest and relaxation time with the new addition to the family, on the other hand I very much hope you get to spend at least a couple of good weather days in what’s left of the year, you deserve it 👍
Put some blue tac on a washer push the nut on the washer then put nut in socket and tighten the Blue tac will squeeze out may help youout some other time
Nice mersey class lifeboat beside it
the tanks look good
Blue tack for adding washers. Use long socket with blue tac to keep washer in place with nut in the socket.
You pair are right grafters and you thoroughly deserve everything you have in life, bc boy do you work for it.
I didn't even know you two had another channel, you kept this quiet didn't you? Lol at least I've never heard you mention this channel before. Its only bc of YT algorithm that I know about it. It's been fascinating so far watching you get to this point in your project. These tanks have been a nightmare. Just at the point where you're installing them back in your boat. I hope it's all good now!?
Easy placement of washers is a tiny amount of sealant to "glue" it to the Fuel tank before it is set in place. Also, if you have problems getting your nut on the fuel tank on the port side just place a thin sheet of plastic over the socket, the push your nut into the plastic. Then you can be a meter or more away and still be able to thread your nut.
Great work! Just to let you know, you could use flange nuts where you can't reach to put washers. 😺
I see I'm not the first to notice. Its very important that there is a lashing between the fixing point and the chain. Ideally the lashing should be long enough to come out of your chain pipe so that in an emergency you can cut it.
Another good video 🛥🚤⛵️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍👏👏👏
Thank you 👍
Hello Gemma and Simon,just a thought….would a tailor’s crimping shears stop the fire glass from fraying?cheers Roly🇬🇧.
Standard color code for anchor markings is Red, Yellow, Blue, White, green. Best way to remember it is "rub your balls with grease". They had the order marked on the back of the package. Love your videos!
well, at least there seems to be a standard!
As an electrical Engineer, but not a sailor, I was about to suggest black, brown, red, orange, yellow green, blue, violet or purple, grey, white. Still, I soon realised that these colours, representing numbers from zero to 10, have the fatal drawback that in poor light some are hard to tell apart. The scheme you describe has the clear advantage of using clearly distinct colours, and may even work for folk who are red-green colourblind!. The scheme the ship happens adventurers used looks odd by any standard at all - especially considering you may need to see them in poor light.
If there is a standard, maybe it should be used in case a crew member familiar with the standard should join them on a trip.
Wow guys! The tanks came out AMAZING!! For the washers, could you use a bit of tape to "attach" the washer to the nut, then install with your mega-extension socket?
Obvious solution
That alternator ground (earth) needs a coating of copper grease. It won’t spoil conductivity but will protect from corrosion.
you can use a stick with a bit of grease on the end to get washers on
Tanks a are looking awesome, you saved a pretty penny and kept them out of landfill. I would fibreglass a brace into the underneath of that cut out deck section, a piece of composite decking or something like that then you have piece of mind.
The end of the chain secured in the chain locker is called the bitter end.
Great work!! You need a claw-type pickup tool to manage those stainless washers. Also, as a precaution, I'd wrap the connection between the socket and each extension so you don't accidentally knock anything loose, like your _only_ 14mm socket, and have it drop into the abyss! I had that happen on a car I was working on, the socket dropped down between the firewall and inner fender liner, and it took two days, an endoscope to fine it, and magnetic pick up tool to retrieve it!
love the use of the van to get the tanks into the boat :)
i would have just made that brace removeable. its going to be visible anyway. Did you look into the delivery valve on the big engine yet?
I like the T-shirt, greetings from Amsterdam
A drop of super glue to carefully stick the washer to the nut just enough to use a long socket extension to the get the nut started. Works every time.
Blu Tak does the job of holding bolts etc for tight places
God that fiberglassing takes me back to being 11 or 12 years old and helping my Dad fibreglass his boat. What a memory. 60 years ago!
add a bit of grease to washers stick to nut put on
For future reference when I am aced with that problem putting 2 nuts in the socket and the washer on top then a small piece of masking or painters tape to hold it is allows you to get the washer on and first nut started and if you do it right the tape will pull off of the washer leaving no trace of the trick.
Put nut in socket and use thick grease to hold washer on end of socket, then reach in and locate stud and screw on.
I love Simon's 👕's too lol
Cling film and tape onto your extension
Does not seem to be a substantial connection in the chain locker to hold the bitter end.
Excellent rebuild on the tanks. They look better than New...................>
You can put a bit ov grease on the end of your socket to get the washers on then if your socket is too deep pack the inside with a bit ov foam or even a tissue garage hack 👍🏼😎👍🏼
always wondered why such a big van. your great for thinking out of the box makes life so much better just keep smiling
Hi Guys , i have been watching both channels religiously every week and just notice a very familiar type of vessel at 2 min into this video , A Breed class rescue vessel 12-15 , we have quiet a few that our National Sea Rescue Institute (NSRI) bought many years ago from the RNLI , I served on one at the NSRI here in Port Elizabeth South Africa (station 6) for about 10 years ,they are the most amazing vessels (Also wood), it would be great if you could do a video visiting one of their bases as they do such an important job for the community, Good luck with both your channels and keep up the great work, kind regards Ryan
should have used a wooden stick with some blu tack on the end to put the washers on...you also need more than those 2 little bits of fibre glass.. that Deck piece is part of the Structure of the boat and it will flex like hell unless you make it Strong Especially when you are walking on the "Deck"...
Watching these videos reminds me why I no longer have or work on boats.
Easy way, take a piece of napkin, lay the piece over the socket make sure it covers the whole socket . Press your nut over and into the socket. The nut will not slip out. Use nuts with the nylon insert negating the need for regular our lock washers.
In situations with stainless steel like this, I use a little super glue to glue the washer to the nut and the nut to the socket. Once you thread the nut and washer and tighten down the nut the super glue breaks free and you can pull the socket wrench free.
Well done you , dont get despondent it will all work out!
BOAT = Bust Out Another Thousand. They're a lot of fun but can require a lot of maintenance. Of course so does my dump truck, excavator, motorcycles, Jeep, campground etc. Tough not being rich. Tis the life we live. My motto is " It's always something ".
Use a claw pick up tool/grasper to put the washers on.
Simon is my hero because he can install two fuel tanks and still have clean hands. Worse than the fuel tanks?! Propeller and shaft? More than that? Yikes.
super glue and a long extension for the bolts
Tape is your friend! Looks great, keep up the good work.
You really need a dedicated earth wire or strap, from alternator to engine block, to assure a good quality and permanent earthing
My suggestion for the washer was SS welding rod tiny spot of hot glue or silicone holding the washer in place until the nut breaks or crushes the glue? You could attach it to a length of cotton in case you needed to retrieve it.
Blue tack on a socket then same with nut
G'day m8s an G'day Richard. Unreal banana peel, close to splash for Richard to Certify Boutari for goin on the water without him 😉 Hope to the bloke out there fishing with you sometime soon. Boutari is a beaut and she'll be even better when you finish with her.
Tanks look great and nice idea to put the tanks on the roof from the van to get on the boot.
Nut and washer trick… axe grease in the end of the socket after you drop the nut and washer in. And, you won’t glue your fingers together!!
❤ Applaus ✌️
super glue the washer to thenut then fit them with the socket
Great channel guys, class ..
Also, I might have missed this, but did you guys pull the injectors to check their condition?
Three boatchannels for me today..sailing Yaba..Sampson boat co with TallyHo and last but not least you guys the Sarinda couple working on their fast motorboat. Great input for me..thanks
As a general rule, the amount of chain should be around the length of the boat. OK so far, you appear to have maybe twice that. But the amount of rode (the chain or rope connecting the boat to the anchor) that lies on the bottom when you are at anchor should be around four times the depth of water in calm conditions, which includes the height of the anchor connection to the boat.. As you can see, you have only a very limited depth at which you can safely anchor. It you anchored in only 10metres of water, you would need 44 (depth of water plus height to bow roller x 4)metres out, which may be already more than is there. If the conditions are other than calm, you might need up to 10 times the depth of water.
I would also suggest that you connect the chain to the head of the stock by a weak link, with a solid connection to the end nearest the flukes. If your anchor becomes jammed in the seabed in some way, the link will fail and the anchor can be pulled out backwards. You could also look up how to use an alderney ring.
Not a Hugh problem. 1 drop superglue on nuts to washer.
bluetac on a stick might enable the washer fitment issue, or you could try your skill with a litter picker lol
a bit late now if you have another situation like that again use flange nuts
Think i would have put a few more layers of fibreglass at different directions for a bit more strength
How many layers of fiberglass did you put on the repair. You only show one. Should be 3 or more. Next, when anchoring (over nite, in current, or in heavy weather), the ratio is 7:1, which means, for 1 meter depth, you need to have 7 meters of chain. 10 meter depth, 70 meters of chain.
For the chain length colour sequence I have seen used the colours of the snooker balls, red yellow brown green etc, very easy to remember!
red yellow blue white green and to remember the colours just think of "rub your balls with grease" lol.
Lay out a piece of plastic film and some precut prefitted peal off material. And your multi later fiber glass mats. Then stick the whole patch in place . If you are doing patches from the bottom. Precut a block of foam to hold the patch in place.
In future try flange nuts as the flange has anti vibration face to assist locking on tightening.
a little grease on the nut and washer
Great job with the tanks. Like new. On your anchor's bitter end. Take the shackle off. Put in a length of rope. That way if you have an emergency. You can cut your anchor loose. Sad to hear there are more problems. Take care. Cheers.
Needs more fibreglass! If you think about it, right at the cuts in the original, which is where stresses will now be concentrated, you replaced fibreglass about a 1/4 inch thick with the new glass about 2mm thick, or less!
You can spread the stresses by grinding out a V to either side of the cut, all the way to the bottom, and at least 2 inches from the cut where you can (the curvy bits might be a bit difficult to do that, but as wide as you can there)
Then laminate fibreglass into your V, sand it down to keep it just below the original level then apply gel coat for the top finish.
It would be prettier to have ground the V out from the bottom, but I can see that would have been a right PITA to do in the limited space, and you've already glassed the bottom anyway.
A couple more layers on the bottom wouldn't hurt either of course!
Good luck with it all.
If you have that problem with nuts or washers, put the nut in the socket, smear the face of the socket with grease and stick the washer on the front, great vlogs
So after all the hard work you guys need take time off Serinda and have a great time next spring.
Blueback for washers
Hi Guys what do you think the range is gonna be with your two giant fuel tanks and can you afford to fill up?
Sellotape the bolt heads and washers onto the socket.(don't need much).
A dab of superglue between the washer and the nut... or shoe goo, had to do it recently myself.
Gemma should enter in the strong woman contests.
The washers you could of put in place with long reach long nose pliers end the nuts you could of put paper in socket till the nut fitted just in end then put grease in end of socket to hold nut from falling out
From andy in devon
I would use a little grease to stick the washer to the socket.