Another amazing video brother! It’s amazing how just the tiniest vacuum leak can make these cars run like complete garbage…I know I was guilty at throwing parts in the past to fix an idle issue when it was just a $1.00 piece of vacuum hose that had a pin hole.
Lol I know right!? I was trying to stress this issue with folks in my video but you said it best! I’m going to pin your comment so other can see exactly how the smallest leak can cause a disaster! Thx buddy!
I've done the same thing and found cracked vacuum lines under the dash , l also found a leaking A/C control switch that cured My drivability problem ! Great content Thank You . 🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
I just received the parts I couldn't get locally. Planning to build mine after watching Brew2l show how to make one. Missed these since I quit the dealership. Great job and thanks.
Thank you this is awesome video. This is much easier than shooting starting ether on vacuum connectors and listening idle to increase. Wish I would’ve thought of this couple decades ago.
Man that is an awesome idea. I just bought an 88 foxbody that I'm guessing is 1 big vacuum leak after finding several just looking at hoses. This would help me make sure I've found them all. I will be making a smoke machine this weekend. Thank you for the idea
I followed this to the T, and completely fixed the ole Lethbridge special 89 vert. It was a hardware issue, and following up with new plugs (somebody gapped the plugs at .030 😮) and wires, and she just fires right up like a champ. Keep the videos coming, I'm having a blast working through this thing with your videos
Thanks for the video ! I'm working on my daughters 1995 3.8 V6 Mustang, and yes we have a drive-ability issue. It idles perfect around 750 rpm, it runs rough at 1000 rpm and hesitates up until 2000 rpm. I did the smoke test and found out that the EGR valve was leaking and the IAC gasket was leaking. Fixed that with new parts. Problem remained. Changed the spark plugs and wires and the coil since it was still the original coil. No change. Smoke tested again, no leaks. Changed the fuel filter. Checked fuel pressure, 34 psi so that should be good. Fuel pump was making a lot of noise (was loud), so I put a new one in. No change regarding the issue. Had the injectors checked, all good. Replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors, since they were also still the original. No change. Smoke tested again and checked the inner front fender on the driver side, even behind the dash. No leaks. Checked the grounds in the engine bay with a multi meter - all good, added some extra grounds to the engine, just to be sure and rule things out. No change. I forgot to say, that it ran good until we parked it 2 years ago (in a heated garage) because the inside of one of the cats was loose and ratteling. I emptied the cats at first, but then it ran like crap, and so I ordered new cats, but never came to install them until 2 moths ago, only to find out it still runs like crap 🥲 Strangest thing of all ... No check engine light, no trouble codes ??? (Car is equipped with OBD2 and I have a scan tool). MAF sensor reading is good. TPS sensor has the correct voltage. Ohhh and also tried another ECU (same year, model, engine, etc.) exact same issue. I hope you or others have some suggestions for me where to look at. Thanks !!
@@andrewaustin6020 the harmonic balancer was broken and shifted 21 degrees (or so). It seems to be a problem for these cars / engines. You couldn't actually see it, until they took it out. Replaced it and it runs like a charm up until this day !
@@tedschuurmans I figured it out today my new ignition module was bad I found it out on accident but thank the lord I was going crazy I’ve replaced all kinds of stuff
Yup!...I have a new gallon paint can..same air line configuration but use a piece of shop rag soaked with baby oil and place a charcoal briquet heated with torch glowing red and place inside using VERY low air pressure. WJ's are also notorious for evap leaks! DP
If the vacuum hose is like black chalk when You touch it..everything is suspect. And all visible ez access hoses with obvious stiffness and memory mould like brake booster replace it clamp it or shorten it. Good video as always 👍
Great video I just completed my smoke test and had smoke coming out of the EGR valve and also the 2 round covers on top of the charcoal canister. Was wondering if that is supposed to be like that or do I have to replace those parts ? Thank you
Great video! I have an issue with my foxbody cutting off within 20 sec of turning the car on. I did the smoke test and notice smoke coming out of the EGR valve. Could that be the problem?
Hello. Awesome little smoke box you made. Im glad you are easy to listen to and run through explanations of Mustang issues carefully. I was curious seeing the engine look so clean. What do you use to give it the shiny waxed look? Thank you.
My friend go over your other car how you did the 5 lug Conversion something am trying to mind I have the same mustang convertible as you keep up the good work
Good morning, Gary. On a completely unrelated topic, are you up to speed on the A9L vs A9P computer situation? If so, I have a question. If not, oh well, that's fine, I'll just do more research. Thanks for all the help you've given me so far. Bill.
@@KASLCustoms OK, here goes. " Situation" was probably the wrong word.Years ago, I did the AOD to T5 swap. I did not change over to an A9L. The A9P and the associated O2 harness are still in place and have been fine, but a couple of the other youtube channels say I might be heading for disaster by not changing to an A9L. Just wondering what you think. Thanks.
Ok understood. Send me an email bill and I’ll get you tagged up with a buddy of mine that can help. My email is listed in the “about” tab of my RUclips channel/page 👍
@@KASLCustoms Hi Gary. I opened up the "about" page on your channel and I just don't see your email address. I'm probably doing something wrong but I don't know what. There's an "http. /c/KASLCustoms" button, that doesn't get me anything. I'm guess I'm stumped. Thanks.
Ok no worries. The last time I put it in the comments I ended up with so much junk mail I couldn’t keep up with it… here is to hoping you can decipher this: it’s my RUclips channel name (no spaces) @outlook dot com
I love your videos and overall content. On an unrelated topic, with my T5 and bell housing removed, can I raise the engine high enough with the Harbor Freight Engine Support Bar to remove the oil pan all together? I'm assuming once I drop it and have access to oil pump and p/u tube and drop them in pan the whole thing will come out the back. Do you have any idea? It looks like I have about 8" or so to raise it before the intake hits the bar.
Thanks so much my friend! I’ve never tried the method you are thinking, I’ve always just used a cherry picker type engine hoist. I am interested to hear the results of how you make out though 🙏👍
@@KASLCustoms I will let you know. I have a cherry picker but would love to not have to remove the engine completely. I think I will have enough room. 88GT T-Top
@@KASLCustoms The Engine Support bar from Harbor Freight did exactly what I needed it to. It got the engine up high enough for me to remove the oil pan without having to remove the oil pump and/or pickup tube. I even still had over an inch to spare. Make changing the motor mounts a breeze as well. Keep in mind, my T5 was removed.
I was hoping this would help me find my issue with a loud ringing or slash whistling noise that starts after a few seconds of the car running. It sounds like its coming from behind the upper intake. Any suggestions would be appreciated
I did this on my 5.0 and smoke was coming out from under my tps senser and on the bottom where the throttle cable is at . Is this normal on a new bbk throttle body ?
I have an 88 vert AOD that runs great, has no codes key on or off. When I start it up warm I get an idle surge, tps is .98, base idle reset, can't find a vaccum leak, im stumped. When I put it in gear idles fine. Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you
@@KASLCustoms Thanks for your reply. I changed the cap rotor plugs, wires, and ignition control module, plenty of spark. I even swapped the injectors with ones from my 93 that had very little use. I have plenty of fuel, new fuel filter and regulator. I even swapped computers with a freinds speed density fox. Car runs well in gear, no surge when cold just in park or neutral when started warm. Car is basically stock, just 1.6 rockers, port matched edelbrock intake, and a BBK TB, stock cam. I ran propane around intake and all vaccum lines, no leak. I'm going to run a smoke test, just to rule it out. What kind of wire did you use on the wick? Thanks again.
I got a 1990 mustang gt and it has tubular a-arm and the ball joints was going out so I pressed them out and I pressed new ones in, I tightened everything down and put it back on the ground and the ball joint completely came out again just hanging on by the castle nut, idk if I done something wrong or if the a-arms are shot idk what to do ur advice would be greatly appreciated
@@KASLCustoms idk I first ordered stock foxbody ball joints then that didn’t work than I ordered sn-95 ball joints and that seemed to fit way better but the bolt wasn’t long enough for the castle nut to fit
@@KASLCustoms I can text the guy and see what he had on it cuz it was an old drag build but regardless thanks for ur time and I love the channel great work
ive been watching a while. i am dying here man. i bought a 91 last year. The previous owner had the maf unhooked because of driveabillity issues and had been driving that way for some time. The first thing I did was a smoke test with a cigar and a hand transfer pump. I fixed all of the leaks there were, all mainly coming from partial emissions equipment still hooked up even though a majority had been deleted. Had been running with the maf plugged in after I fixed all those and she had been running like a champ. Now, I cant run with the maf hooked up. It will idle fine and drive fine, and then all of a sudden it falls on its face, backfires at 3k rpms, or barely stays running. All of my codes are related to EGR missing and Air Pump no longer installed. KOEO 31/81/82/85/84 ... Continuous 29... and KOER 26/94/44/31.... Compression test gets a code 90. I replaced the maf and cleared codes and 26 goes away, sometimes comes back. All voltages and ohms are what they should be at the connector and at the maf according to the internet. My VSS is a little leaky and im assuming its bad, thats why im getting the code 29, which i plan on replacing that and the connectors next time I get under the car, but I wouldnt think that would be why Im having the issue. Its wierd... I can go start it now and just let it idle and it sits at like 650 fine, no problem. Ill drive down the road and it may be fine, or it may start hesitating and backfiring. Then ill turn around and come right back home and either it will idle great or it will be erratic.... what do you think, i am beginning to feel like ill never solve it and i feel like its got to be something small im overlooking
Hello sir. It sounds like you have a car that's had some butchering done to it... It definitely should not run better with the MAF unhooked. I would start by hooking the MAF back up and start solving problems from there. Its so hard to try and diagnose issues like this when your not hands on with the car. Do you have anyone near you that you can seek advice from?
@@KASLCustoms thanks for replying! It wasn’t terribly done, im only 3rd owner on her. Looks like first owner did everything as far as emissions removal, ac delete and cobra intake. Just some things were done incorrectly between him and I. Only reason it runs better without maf hooked up is because when it is hooked up, it’ll backfire or stall out most of the time. Sometimes it doesn’t though.
No worries buddy. I wish I could help more but like I say, I would try and hook things back up and get yourself a “OEM base line” to work from; rather then trying to work within the parameters of the the messed up system. Good luck sir!!
That's it. I'm making a smoke machine. I feel like I need one on a daily basis. Yours is too simple to not copy! My truck with a 5.0 has me stumped. Maybe I can find a mysterious vac leak this way. I'm at a loss.
Another amazing video brother! It’s amazing how just the tiniest vacuum leak can make these cars run like complete garbage…I know I was guilty at throwing parts in the past to fix an idle issue when it was just a $1.00 piece of vacuum hose that had a pin hole.
Lol I know right!? I was trying to stress this issue with folks in my video but you said it best! I’m going to pin your comment so other can see exactly how the smallest leak can cause a disaster! Thx buddy!
This just gave me some well needed motivation to get off my butt and find my vacuum leak
Nice!
I've done the same thing and found cracked vacuum lines under the dash , l also found a leaking A/C control switch that cured My drivability problem ! Great content Thank You .
🇺🇲🇵🇷🦊👍
Right on!!! Thx buddy 🙏👊
I just received the parts I couldn't get locally. Planning to build mine after watching Brew2l show how to make one. Missed these since I quit the dealership. Great job and thanks.
Right on! Thanks for the kind words my friend!
@@KASLCustoms you earned it
☺️🙏🙏🙏
Brew2l loves those homemade smokers too!
😉👊👊👊👊
Thank you this is awesome video. This is much easier than shooting starting ether on vacuum connectors and listening idle to increase. Wish I would’ve thought of this couple decades ago.
Youre welcome and yes, I agree 👍
Man that is an awesome idea. I just bought an 88 foxbody that I'm guessing is 1 big vacuum leak after finding several just looking at hoses. This would help me make sure I've found them all. I will be making a smoke machine this weekend. Thank you for the idea
Glad I could help
Great explanation, make us think before we needlessly start throwing parts at our foxes.
Yessir! That was exactly the message I was trying to convey. Thx for taking the time to reach out 🙏👊
I followed this to the T, and completely fixed the ole Lethbridge special 89 vert. It was a hardware issue, and following up with new plugs (somebody gapped the plugs at .030 😮) and wires, and she just fires right up like a champ. Keep the videos coming, I'm having a blast working through this thing with your videos
That’s awesome buddy! Thanks for the kind words. I went to school in Lethbridge 🍻
What spark plug gap did you use?
I love the toilet smoker! Works fantastic! Man the garage is clean! Dam!
Hahahaha thx so much buddy!!
Second on the clean garage!...goals.
Killing it, as always! Thanks for making these videos so clear and concise! You keep making content and I’ll keep watching/learning!
Awesome thanks so much buddy!!!
Thanks for the video ! I'm working on my daughters 1995 3.8 V6 Mustang, and yes we have a drive-ability issue. It idles perfect around 750 rpm, it runs rough at 1000 rpm and hesitates up until 2000 rpm.
I did the smoke test and found out that the EGR valve was leaking and the IAC gasket was leaking.
Fixed that with new parts. Problem remained.
Changed the spark plugs and wires and the coil since it was still the original coil. No change.
Smoke tested again, no leaks.
Changed the fuel filter. Checked fuel pressure, 34 psi so that should be good.
Fuel pump was making a lot of noise (was loud), so I put a new one in. No change regarding the issue.
Had the injectors checked, all good.
Replaced all 4 of the O2 sensors, since they were also still the original. No change.
Smoke tested again and checked the inner front fender on the driver side, even behind the dash. No leaks.
Checked the grounds in the engine bay with a multi meter - all good, added some extra grounds to the engine, just to be sure and rule things out. No change.
I forgot to say, that it ran good until we parked it 2 years ago (in a heated garage) because the inside of one of the cats was loose and ratteling. I emptied the cats at first, but then it ran like crap, and so I ordered new cats, but never came to install them until 2 moths ago, only to find out it still runs like crap 🥲
Strangest thing of all ... No check engine light, no trouble codes ??? (Car is equipped with OBD2 and I have a scan tool).
MAF sensor reading is good. TPS sensor has the correct voltage.
Ohhh and also tried another ECU (same year, model, engine, etc.) exact same issue.
I hope you or others have some suggestions for me where to look at.
Thanks !!
Yessir! sometimes these issues are a real bear
Hey did you find the problem?
@@andrewaustin6020 the harmonic balancer was broken and shifted 21 degrees (or so). It seems to be a problem for these cars / engines. You couldn't actually see it, until they took it out. Replaced it and it runs like a charm up until this day !
@@andrewaustin6020 It was the shaft of the harmonic balancer that was broken.
@@tedschuurmans I figured it out today my new ignition module was bad I found it out on accident but thank the lord I was going crazy I’ve replaced all kinds of stuff
Yup!...I have a new gallon paint can..same air line configuration but use a piece of shop rag soaked with baby oil and place a charcoal briquet heated with torch glowing red and place inside using VERY low air pressure. WJ's are also notorious for evap leaks! DP
I like the ingenuity! 🤜🤛
Thanks for taking the time to make this video! Very helpful!👍
You’re welcome my friend!
Another great one! Thanks for being so helpful to the community. I’m going to build one of these!
Thx buddy!!! I really appreciate the kind words and also love to help 🦊💚
Just bought my first foxbody got a 87 gt with 67k on it and supercharged can't wait to dig into it gonna lean on your videos alot haha
Congrats buddy!
Thanks for the great video. Is it normal to have smoke leak through the TPS? How can I address that?
Thank you, there should be a rubber seal in the TPS
If the vacuum hose is like black chalk when You touch it..everything is suspect.
And all visible ez access hoses with obvious stiffness and memory mould like brake booster replace it clamp it or shorten it.
Good video as always 👍
Thx bud
Great video I just completed my smoke test and had smoke coming out of the EGR valve and also the 2 round covers on top of the charcoal canister. Was wondering if that is supposed to be like that or do I have to replace those parts ? Thank you
Your EGR could be stuck open. It would be worth checking
Great video, do you have a video of you building that smoke machine?
Thank you. No sorry I dont
Great video! I have an issue with my foxbody cutting off within 20 sec of turning the car on. I did the smoke test and notice smoke coming out of the EGR valve. Could that be the problem?
Hmmm it’s hard to say buddy…
The car powered baby oil vape is genius!
Hello. Awesome little smoke box you made. Im glad you are easy to listen to and run through explanations of Mustang issues carefully.
I was curious seeing the engine look so clean. What do you use to give it the shiny waxed look?
Thank you.
Thank you! To be honest, the engine had been sprayed with something before I purchased it. I am sorry as I have no idea what they used.
@@KASLCustoms Thank you for answering me back. Have a great day.
Hey Gary. Did you post the instructions on how to build that machine?
Hey buddy! No sorry I havent
My friend go over your other car how you did the 5 lug Conversion something am trying to mind I have the same mustang convertible as you keep up the good work
I have done a video on it and it is on my channel 👍
Great video!
Thx buddy!
Let’s go! Can’t wait to watch this
Haha thx buddy!!! 🙏🙏
Great advice Brother! I am definitely going to build one of these smoke machines.💯👊🏾
Thx pal! Yeah, having one of these around the garage definitely won’t do you any harm 👊👊
Man thanks a million Gary! Great video.
You’re very welcome pal!!
Fantastic!!! 👏
Thank you! 🙏
Great video!!! As always 👍👍
Thx very much Sir!!!
Brew2L has a good video on building a smoke machine.
Nice job bro 👍🏻👊🏻
Thx buddy!!!
Good morning, Gary. On a completely unrelated topic, are you up to speed on the A9L vs A9P computer situation? If so, I have a question. If not, oh well, that's fine, I'll just do more research. Thanks for all the help you've given me so far. Bill.
Morning Bill! I’m familiar with the computers, but I’m not aware of any “current situations?” Let me know 👍
@@KASLCustoms OK, here goes. " Situation" was probably the wrong word.Years ago, I did the AOD to T5 swap. I did not change over to an A9L. The A9P and the associated O2 harness are still in place and have been fine, but a couple of the other youtube channels say I might be heading for disaster by not changing to an A9L. Just wondering what you think. Thanks.
Ok understood. Send me an email bill and I’ll get you tagged up with a buddy of mine that can help. My email is listed in the “about” tab of my RUclips channel/page 👍
@@KASLCustoms Hi Gary. I opened up the "about" page on your channel and I just don't see your email address. I'm probably doing something wrong but I don't know what. There's an "http. /c/KASLCustoms" button, that doesn't get me anything. I'm guess I'm stumped. Thanks.
Ok no worries. The last time I put it in the comments I ended up with so much junk mail I couldn’t keep up with it… here is to hoping you can decipher this: it’s my RUclips channel name (no spaces) @outlook dot com
Thanks for the vid!
You betcha! Thx bud
Great video ! Are you setting the timing in any position before you start the smoke test ?
Thank you. No timing was left alone
Helpful! Thanks Man!
You bet!
I love your videos and overall content. On an unrelated topic, with my T5 and bell housing removed, can I raise the engine high enough with the Harbor Freight Engine Support Bar to remove the oil pan all together? I'm assuming once I drop it and have access to oil pump and p/u tube and drop them in pan the whole thing will come out the back. Do you have any idea? It looks like I have about 8" or so to raise it before the intake hits the bar.
Thanks so much my friend! I’ve never tried the method you are thinking, I’ve always just used a cherry picker type engine hoist. I am interested to hear the results of how you make out though 🙏👍
@@KASLCustoms I will let you know. I have a cherry picker but would love to not have to remove the engine completely. I think I will have enough room. 88GT T-Top
Sounds good - please do!
@@KASLCustoms The Engine Support bar from Harbor Freight did exactly what I needed it to. It got the engine up high enough for me to remove the oil pan without having to remove the oil pump and/or pickup tube. I even still had over an inch to spare. Make changing the motor mounts a breeze as well. Keep in mind, my T5 was removed.
@@dannyfackler7104 that’s awesome buddy! Glad it worked out and thanks so much for sharing. Very good info for the community 🙌
Great fking video dude!
Thx pal!!!
I was hoping this would help me find my issue with a loud ringing or slash whistling noise that starts after a few seconds of the car running. It sounds like its coming from behind the upper intake. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Is you PCV unplugged from the lower intake?
@KASLCustoms . It is .there looks like there is one vacuum line going to the upper intake and the other port on the pcv is blocked off is that normal
I got a 2k startup idle for about 10 seconds, any guesses? I did a vacuum leak but nothing really showed, all new sensors except tps and o2 sensors
That’s odd. Have you tried checking it for codes?
I did this on my 5.0 and smoke was coming out from under my tps senser and on the bottom where the throttle cable is at . Is this normal on a new bbk throttle body ?
no it's not. you have a leak
I have an 88 vert AOD that runs great, has no codes key on or off. When I start it up warm I get an idle surge, tps is .98, base idle reset, can't find a vaccum leak, im stumped. When I put it in gear idles fine. Any input would be much appreciated. Thank you
Hmmm that’s interesting? Have you checked your plugs/wires and/or plug gaps? Also, what is you’re timing set at?
@@KASLCustoms Thanks for your reply. I changed the cap rotor plugs, wires, and ignition control module, plenty of spark. I even swapped the injectors with ones from my 93 that had very little use. I have plenty of fuel, new fuel filter and regulator. I even swapped computers with a freinds speed density fox. Car runs well in gear, no surge when cold just in park or neutral when started warm. Car is basically stock, just 1.6 rockers, port matched edelbrock intake, and a BBK TB, stock cam. I ran propane around intake and all vaccum lines, no leak. I'm going to run a smoke test, just to rule it out. What kind of wire did you use on the wick? Thanks again.
Sorry, the gaps are good, timing at 10 degrees
No worries. I went to a local vape shop and bought the wire for one of those vape smoke pens. Works like a hot damn 😂
@@lennoxskeeper maybe try bumping it up a bit to 12ish
If I don't have the smoke will the glove eventually deflate if I have a leak ?????
Please help
I got a 1990 mustang gt and it has tubular a-arm and the ball joints was going out so I pressed them out and I pressed new ones in, I tightened everything down and put it back on the ground and the ball joint completely came out again just hanging on by the castle nut, idk if I done something wrong or if the a-arms are shot idk what to do ur advice would be greatly appreciated
Hmmmm - are the ball joints for the tubular a arm a different size then a stock replacement?
@@KASLCustoms idk I first ordered stock foxbody ball joints then that didn’t work than I ordered sn-95 ball joints and that seemed to fit way better but the bolt wasn’t long enough for the castle nut to fit
Is there any way to figure out who makes the tubular A-Arms? If you had that info then you could call them to see what they recommend
@@KASLCustoms I can text the guy and see what he had on it cuz it was an old drag build but regardless thanks for ur time and I love the channel great work
Anytime buddy. Good luck and thank you for the kind words 👊
Hey thanks for posting this video. I need help with my 93 fox. I’m trying to fix two vacuum leaks. Where can I message or email you?
Hey bud. My email is listed on my about page 👍
Are you supose to get smoke out of egr?
Nope
Shucks
Why does my gas tank make a pressure relief noise ?
After driving and turned off . Recirculation evap fail ?
Sounds like your breather line may be plugged
Built this to the tee but when I connect to the battery, seems like im getting a whole lot of power and the connectors heat up and spark.
Could you just run a hose to the intake like you did, stick a cigar in the other end, light it, and start the car and let it suck?
ive been watching a while. i am dying here man. i bought a 91 last year. The previous owner had the maf unhooked because of driveabillity issues and had been driving that way for some time. The first thing I did was a smoke test with a cigar and a hand transfer pump. I fixed all of the leaks there were, all mainly coming from partial emissions equipment still hooked up even though a majority had been deleted. Had been running with the maf plugged in after I fixed all those and she had been running like a champ.
Now, I cant run with the maf hooked up. It will idle fine and drive fine, and then all of a sudden it falls on its face, backfires at 3k rpms, or barely stays running. All of my codes are related to EGR missing and Air Pump no longer installed. KOEO 31/81/82/85/84 ... Continuous 29... and KOER 26/94/44/31.... Compression test gets a code 90. I replaced the maf and cleared codes and 26 goes away, sometimes comes back. All voltages and ohms are what they should be at the connector and at the maf according to the internet. My VSS is a little leaky and im assuming its bad, thats why im getting the code 29, which i plan on replacing that and the connectors next time I get under the car, but I wouldnt think that would be why Im having the issue.
Its wierd... I can go start it now and just let it idle and it sits at like 650 fine, no problem. Ill drive down the road and it may be fine, or it may start hesitating and backfiring. Then ill turn around and come right back home and either it will idle great or it will be erratic.... what do you think, i am beginning to feel like ill never solve it and i feel like its got to be something small im overlooking
Hello sir. It sounds like you have a car that's had some butchering done to it... It definitely should not run better with the MAF unhooked. I would start by hooking the MAF back up and start solving problems from there.
Its so hard to try and diagnose issues like this when your not hands on with the car. Do you have anyone near you that you can seek advice from?
@@KASLCustoms thanks for replying! It wasn’t terribly done, im only 3rd owner on her. Looks like first owner did everything as far as emissions removal, ac delete and cobra intake. Just some things were done incorrectly between him and I. Only reason it runs better without maf hooked up is because when it is hooked up, it’ll backfire or stall out most of the time. Sometimes it doesn’t though.
No worries buddy. I wish I could help more but like I say, I would try and hook things back up and get yourself a “OEM base line” to work from; rather then trying to work within the parameters of the the messed up system. Good luck sir!!
How can I contact you ???
Email is best
Shout out from Calgary mate. Just kidding
That's it. I'm making a smoke machine. I feel like I need one on a daily basis. Yours is too simple to not copy! My truck with a 5.0 has me stumped. Maybe I can find a mysterious vac leak this way. I'm at a loss.
👌👌👌
where are you located?
Canada
Instructions on how to make that smoke machine..