Another point is this, the lever that tightens the blade, do NOT tighten it all the way because the factory did not create a setting properly so that the blade when tightened with the lever has the proper amount of tightness in fact it’s over tightend , what I do is this I install the blade tighten the lever slightly then I hold on to the blade between the saw wheels then I tighten the blade and I use my other hand to move the blade back and forth untill the tightness is correct. If you follow their instructions and tighten the lever all the way, their is too much strain in the blade and it will snap and fail pre maturely important note for you. Regards Daniel :
@@Maraggie hello Again Friend,, I found out how cheaply the saw was manufactured after I removed the free spinning front wheel. One 2.5 mm bolt is screwed into the bottom of wheel shaft through an adjustable plate that moves back and forth which in turn moves the free wheel either taut or loose this mechanism controls the wheel movement. The wheel is aluminum , it has a steal bushing between the wheel ID and the shaft. I highly advise that you take the wheel off and pull out the bushing and replace with a bearing, I fit two bearings these are thin walled bearings, you may have to mill out the wheel In side diameter a bit larger for the bearing install. I fit two bearings inside the wheel ID these in turn go over the shaft I lock-tighted them in place . The reason for the bearing in stall was two fold, first understand that the bushing will wear out and then the wheel will fall out of alignment and this causes the blade to twist and break, second I had no choice because this creep bored out the wheel ID so that bushing was loose in the bore of the wheel so I had to use bearings which are better. Occasionally I will remove the wheel and place some lithium grease on the bearing surfaces I highly suggest you do this after the warranty is over. There are some 5 by 8 metal cutting saws on Amazon I may buy one of these at some point and a bigger better lathe and mill also, or I may give up machining complete for another plan. We live in Ottawa Canada I assume your in the UK? I wish you the best with your Vevor happy to help others based on my experience with the Anbull clone: Best Regards and thanks for your kind reply’s
All advice greatly appreciated and I will pay closer attention to the tool now. I need to take it apart soon anyway as I was not only using it as intended but also vertically (just held it in vice) to do some cutting. Yes, I'm based in UK. Lovely to hear from Canada...never visited but heard it's lovely. Best wishes to you too.
Hi mate. Correct on that point. I have been using it quite a lot and never had an issue with temperature. I do use cutting paste quite a bit to keep the blade sharper for longer and that contributes to temperature control a bit.
Do you know the blade details to order a new one for this machine? I bought this saw and it arrived without the blades. I think the OEM must not have any because they offered only to refund me $40. Not to replace the missing blades! If I buy it locally - What exactly am I looking for? (Dimensions/specifications)?
Hi RT. If I'm not mistaken, they would be 1/2" x 1140mm, M42 bi-metal. I haven't tried personally yet (still running the two from the box) but when I'll need new ones I'll be ordering from TuffSaws here in UK. I heard good things about the quality. In US, I'm not sure I'm afraid.
@@Maraggie I think you may be right because my cheap harbor freight band saw is direct drive. The gear is machined into the aluminum wheel and is direct motor driven. I think that's a much better design than the plastic sprocket in a dewalt and older Milwaukee band saw
I haven't had the urge to take it apart just yet but it will happen eventually, even if just to clean it. I'll know for sure then. So far it's been a really useful tool but I still stand by my initial finding that the clamp needs welding up so it doesn't turn. You can't cut really short material easily at the moment.
I run mine at speed setting two or under on all metal, mine is anbull vevor is a clone copy accept that it uses a screw type thread instead of the crapping vise lock mine has which gave up the ghost along time ago. Someone wrecked the following wheel on mine. Note that you cannot get replacement parts for the unit. I contacted anbull through Amazon they insisted that I could by a new wheel and bearing on google I checked and checked but no such ad. The bad thing about these saws is that you cannot get parts for them. I have temp. I Fixed the wheel with press fit bearings which seem to be holding up well untill I buy a new saw, but I don’t think I will be buying another clone anbull from Amazon I will buy a bigger saw. Also becarefull because the adjustment for angle cuts is not very good, once you change to a different angle it’s difficult to to align it for 90 degree cuts. The weakness is the arm and nut and bearing arrangement that’s the issue plus I do not like the fact the wheels are made from molded Aluminum. If you cut steel eventually the metal particals get into the pulley wheels under the rubber backing .metal particals destroy aluminum. I use Lenox blades they are the best on the planet . If you keep the unit at setting two it will cut all metals and the blade will last a very long time. The company I buy metal from uses Lenox blades on their big metal saws, they tell me they change the blades once a month. Regards Daniel
I also don't go higher than speed 2 to be fair...no need and since most of the time I cut stainless...slower is better. Agree on the angles.... so annoying to set it back to 90deg after doing other angles. mine also tends to hang on the cut piece at the last moment... I can tell by the unit dropping when I undo the vice. I haven't heard about Lenox. I just bought some from TuffSaws and they're great. We'll see how long they last. Thanks a bunch for your input :)
Thank you, the instructions are written for someone who has used band saws in the past, not for newbies!
You're very welcome :)
Heute ist meine angekommen, bin gespannt wie sie funktioniert. Danke für Deine Vorführung.
Bitte sehr :)
Grat vid man, thanks for sharing!!! I have to have one of those!!!
Thanks!. It really is a great tool to have.
Thanks for sharing
Another point is this, the lever that tightens the blade, do NOT tighten it all the way because the factory did not create a setting properly so that the blade when tightened with the lever has the proper amount of tightness in fact it’s over tightend , what I do is this I install the blade tighten the lever slightly then I hold on to the blade between the saw wheels then I tighten the blade and I use my other hand to move the blade back and forth untill the tightness is correct. If you follow their instructions and tighten the lever all the way, their is too much strain in the blade and it will snap and fail pre maturely important note for you. Regards Daniel :
Didn't know that. Thank you. That said, I had a blade for ages before it gave up ghost. But might've been lucky.
@@Maraggie hello Again Friend,, I found out how cheaply the saw was manufactured after I removed the free spinning front wheel. One 2.5 mm bolt is screwed into the bottom of wheel shaft through an adjustable plate that moves back and forth which in turn moves the free wheel either taut or loose this mechanism controls the wheel movement. The wheel is aluminum , it has a steal bushing between the wheel ID and the shaft. I highly advise that you take the wheel off and pull out the bushing and replace with a bearing, I fit two bearings these are thin walled bearings, you may have to mill out the wheel In side diameter a bit larger for the bearing install. I fit two bearings inside the wheel ID these in turn go over the shaft I lock-tighted them in place . The reason for the bearing in stall was two fold, first understand that the bushing will wear out and then the wheel will fall out of alignment and this causes the blade to twist and break, second I had no choice because this creep bored out the wheel ID so that bushing was loose in the bore of the wheel so I had to use bearings which are better. Occasionally I will remove the wheel and place some lithium grease on the bearing surfaces I highly suggest you do this after the warranty is over. There are some 5 by 8 metal cutting saws on Amazon I may buy one of these at some point and a bigger better lathe and mill also, or I may give up machining complete for another plan. We live in Ottawa Canada I assume your in the UK? I wish you the best with your Vevor happy to help others based on my experience with the Anbull clone:
Best Regards and thanks for your kind reply’s
All advice greatly appreciated and I will pay closer attention to the tool now. I need to take it apart soon anyway as I was not only using it as intended but also vertically (just held it in vice) to do some cutting. Yes, I'm based in UK. Lovely to hear from Canada...never visited but heard it's lovely. Best wishes to you too.
Let me know when you modify the vevor bandsaw
so pro channel~ man! =))
Come need that 90 degree angle for vevor bandsaw
So , did you manage to finally ever get a cut with it thats perfectly straight?
Is the fence and clamp not square?
Hi. Perfectly straight? Close enough I'd say. The dial on the saw arm for angle cuts is a little bit off so it takes a bit of adjustment.
Long time no see. 😊
You don’t need cooling as it runs very cool, the blade only gets warm:
Hi mate. Correct on that point. I have been using it quite a lot and never had an issue with temperature. I do use cutting paste quite a bit to keep the blade sharper for longer and that contributes to temperature control a bit.
Do you know the blade details to order a new one for this machine?
I bought this saw and it arrived without the blades. I think the OEM must not have any because they offered only to refund me $40. Not to replace the missing blades!
If I buy it locally - What exactly am I looking for? (Dimensions/specifications)?
Hi RT. If I'm not mistaken, they would be 1/2" x 1140mm, M42 bi-metal. I haven't tried personally yet (still running the two from the box) but when I'll need new ones I'll be ordering from TuffSaws here in UK. I heard good things about the quality. In US, I'm not sure I'm afraid.
someone made a video where they tested various blades. cheaper is not the same.
Are those gear driven or chain drive ? Thanks for the video
Hi Mike. I think neither. It's direct drive from 1100W motor.
@@Maraggie I think you may be right because my cheap harbor freight band saw is direct drive. The gear is machined into the aluminum wheel and is direct motor driven. I think that's a much better design than the plastic sprocket in a dewalt and older Milwaukee band saw
I haven't had the urge to take it apart just yet but it will happen eventually, even if just to clean it. I'll know for sure then. So far it's been a really useful tool but I still stand by my initial finding that the clamp needs welding up so it doesn't turn. You can't cut really short material easily at the moment.
@@Maraggie I bought the sam e one, and I may build a table also
Awesome. Let me know how you get on with it.
Me compré una,me llegó ayer,le puse la conta de corte y se sale ,a alguien más le ha pasado??
Hello. What is coming off? I tried translating but it's coming up with wrong words.
I run mine at speed setting two or under on all metal, mine is anbull vevor is a clone copy accept that it uses a screw type thread instead of the crapping vise lock mine has which gave up the ghost along time ago. Someone wrecked the following wheel on mine. Note that you cannot get replacement parts for the unit. I contacted anbull through Amazon they insisted that I could by a new wheel and bearing on google I checked and checked but no such ad. The bad thing about these saws is that you cannot get parts for them. I have temp. I Fixed the wheel with press fit bearings which seem to be holding up well untill I buy a new saw, but I don’t think I will be buying another clone anbull from Amazon I will buy a bigger saw. Also becarefull because the adjustment for angle cuts is not very good, once you change to a different angle it’s difficult to to align it for 90 degree cuts. The weakness is the arm and nut and bearing arrangement that’s the issue plus I do not like the fact the wheels are made from molded Aluminum. If you cut steel eventually the metal particals get into the pulley wheels under the rubber backing .metal particals destroy aluminum. I use Lenox blades they are the best on the planet . If you keep the unit at setting two it will cut all metals and the blade will last a very long time. The company I buy metal from uses Lenox blades on their big metal saws, they tell me they change the blades once a month.
Regards Daniel
I also don't go higher than speed 2 to be fair...no need and since most of the time I cut stainless...slower is better. Agree on the angles.... so annoying to set it back to 90deg after doing other angles. mine also tends to hang on the cut piece at the last moment... I can tell by the unit dropping when I undo the vice. I haven't heard about Lenox. I just bought some from TuffSaws and they're great. We'll see how long they last. Thanks a bunch for your input :)