Jeff, put louvers in the under tray with them opening toward the back of the car so as the air passing under the car in affect suckes the hot air out. I did this to my car and the temperature dropped by 15 degrees
Remember the Holden Torana LC LJ GTR XU1 front Air Dam, It was there to make a low pressure area behind it to draw air through the radiator. The VL Commodore had the same kind of thing made in plastic so it could flex.
Jeff, I think you’ve diagnosed your cooling issue correctly. If you want to retain the “bash plate” you might consider putting a fan or two in it if there’s room, to PULL the air that’s gone through the radiator OUT of the engine bay. This is similar to tightly cowled piston aircraft…airflow out is just as important as airflow in. Most piston aircraft are air cooled, but the same principle applies.
I swapped my fan from a ebay special to a mishimoto race fan , I would louvre the sump guard to direct air out of engine bay , also try have the bonnet open slightly to see if temperature actually decrease before adding bonnet vents, you can get prescription lenses to go into welding masks
Well done on staying so upbeat when you're pulling the engine yet again to cut into the presumed finished and painted crossmember and mounts that were done such a long time ago. I think it would have broken my heart to do that and wouldn't have wanted to film that part. I hope the engine bay cleans up nicely before the engine goes back in.
Speaking of vision, I was in a hurry and trying to get a project car assembled so I could shuffle cars around the shop, and punched myself in the face with a 1/2" ratchet! I really did a number on myself. Split my eyebrow, 2 huge lumps on my head, one from the socket and the other from where I pulled pack into the door pinch weld, and my vision in my right eye is almost gone. Which was my good eye! Fingers crossed I can see to weld tomorrow. Have a huge fabric job on at work.
You need a shroud around the fan to draw enough air to cool the radiator. The shroud allows the fan to pull air through the radiator's entire surface area, increasing its efficiency. The fan should be centered within the shroud. That tends to be the best location to draw air through the full surface of the radiator
@@HomeBuiltByJeff I’ll go try and find that Jeff. If you’ve done a shroud already then I wonder if there is too much water flow through the radiator because if it runs through too fast it might not be staying in the radiator long enough to cool off at idle?
Regarding the vacuum leak...be careful, if you have MAF based ECU tuning, then whole tune would be off now, after the fix, because you actually tuned with less measured airmass, than actually entered the engine. If you have speed-density tune (MAP based) then you're OK, because you tuned according to actual measured MAP in intake plenum.
Jeff, welcome to getting older. As a rule, you should have surface area equal to your radiator intake for the outflow and preferably about 20% larger. The idea of the louvers in the bash tray is good, as long as the louvers are shaped correctly. The other option is outflow NACA ducts in the bash tray, but I do not know if you have enough space above the tray to install them. Adding the fan shroud is a must, especially for idling conditions. Keep working on solving this, you will get it right.
Louvre type reversed scoops in the under tray / bash plate would assist greatly. You could do a series of small louvres or a larger single reversed "bonnet scoop" to allow large volumes of air out under the engine. I would tend to leave the plate in because of the mud and spray up into the engine bay if it is removed. Makes cleaning the bay a lot harder. It also reduces water, mud and debri onto fan and serpentine belts which helps them to maintain friction and not slip so easily under load in night time adverse conditions .........
Jeff - as ever I feel for you. Tough decisions to make on such minor issues. But the last 10% I always found takes so so so much time. We both know that. But hey - needs must.
Jeff, welcome to the Club of Revelation. I had the same discovery about a year ago. My welds also suddenly got a lot better. Thing is, now you need to avoid seeing your old welds with your glasses on..
The new fan will make a huge difference. If will just push the air around the engine and out the bottom. Also noted cutting a louver in the bash plate to pick up that high speed air and use it to vacuum the air out of the engine bay. There are high pressure areas on either side near the tires from the "tire squish" as they push the air out of the way. Air dams could be installed on the bash plate to block the tire squish air from filling the low pressure area you want under and behind the engine. Great work powering through these hiccups !!!
Wow, what a lot of work again, and sawing in your beautiful car 😬 It will certainly look very nice again and you have come up with beautiful solutions again. I have no idea but a rack or mesh on the underside would provide protection and sufficient cooling? Good luck 💪🏻🙂
Hey Jeff - that is a lot of challenges that you are overcoming there - well done mate! btw you can get magnifying lenses that clip to the inside of welding helmets in place of the internal clear - no reading glasses required.
Looking good Jeff, when we were developing and building supercars (rear engined worse) heat was always a massive issue. Maybe modding the bonnet with the hump continuing to the back edge by windscreen and then having a vent along the back edge of the hump …. that will help the rising heat escape along the back edge and out. The easier way with old racecars was to lift the back edge of a bonnet with lift spacers to create a gap….. enjoying your content mate 👍👍👍
The bash plate will actually help cooling when the vehicle is at speed if you just put some louvers in it. Removing it will reduce the air flow going through the radiator because air can just go underneath without the bash plate.
Keep the "bash guard" but cut longitudinal gaps maybe 1" wide and 1,25" apart in it. That way if you DO hit anything, it will still work as intended, Should be enough to vent hot air down and out.
Where have a "bash plate", many high performance cars have only an aerodynamic device. It might even be soft. You could put vents in it that only allow air out.
Jeff thanks for awesome video's. Just a thought on vacuum leaks in general. Either buy or make a simple smoke generator and connect to whatever you want to check, - see LR Time he has a nice one, works very well.
On my 1986 Alfa Romeo GTV6 I have a overheating temperature when the A/C was on so I installed a cooling fan in front of the rad and left the original twin fans in the back of the rad and it solved my overheating issues, you may want to try that Jeff, I wouldn't cut louvers in the hood. Good luck.
I think you want to avoid aerodynamic add-ons, but... a small front air dam will help evacuate the radiator air. Combine with some enlarged exit routes.
Few days late on this, but what if for the bash plate you go with what some of the originals ones had (And my one) was basically a cage protector, just a few ribs to protect, shouldn't be to hard to find pics. Other suggestion, if you did have to do something to the hood why not look at the latest alfa Gulia QV and the vents its got on its hood, way more subtle and could be something you could get, laser scan and 3d print for mock-up.
Jeff and just remember heat rises too so maybe do something with the clear panel in the bonnet, great work as always you seem to be able to over come any issues you have with relatively little trouble. And yes add some reverse louvers in the bash plate to suck from the bottom 👍
Air is lazy. It will evacuate through the first low pressure area. Instead of removing the skid plate, you could scallop/louver it and it would still be effective for both protection and air removal. Also, I can't tell by looking at your headlights but if you have a gap to the left & right it could be creating an air block from turbulence. Blocking off the sides to force the air to directly flow into the Rad will be more effective in every driving scenario. Thank you for your videos. Keep up the great work.
Have you looked at static pressure fans vs airflow? My understanding is that airflow fans don't work as well as static pressure when it comes to forcing air through radiators especially in tight spaces. There's info on RUclips about it from high end PC builders that use watercooled loops in their builds.
A nice functional method you could do on the bash plate is to add louvres around six of them, this way the metal in the louvers will direct the air, where a hole has no method of directing the air.
i know you don't want to cut up the engine bay, but what about some formed air outlets in the inner fenders into the wheel arches? it might introduce more dirt into the engine bay but if you shaped and placed them carefully it could be another under bonnet solution
If these mods aren't enough to lower the temps, maybe you could louver the inner wings,and let som air out over the wheels? Some cars from that period had vents in the top of the wings too. If that's too difficult with all the stuff you got packed in everywhere, maybe vents or louvers eihter side of the window, above the exhaust manifolds? That could help with rising heat when stationary too. Of course all my suggestions would send you back to the paint booth.
As an experiment, you might want to temporarily demount the horns behind the front grill to see if that might increase the airflow. A more powerful fan should certainly help, but air inlet resistance, as well as outlet resistance all factor into the cooling.
Jeff, your engine overheating is at idle in traffic and when you move it’s alright, right? Heat rises and for this reason you need some louvers on the hood for the heat escape from the engine bay. Louvers can be done very clean and good looking, check Lancia Stratos or Delta. Keep up the good work and Godspeed from California 🇺🇸
Jeff, bit basic, but have you tested the thermostat? May look OK but test it to make sure. Also have a look to make sure coolant flow is not restricted.
Heavily humped between the front wheels - like a ripple strip at the track? or a high crown or some sort of demarcation parking strip on a road course? And yes, I would also rather see louvres in the bash plate rather than the bonnet, maybe even with bracing rods to restore the strength if needed.
Hey Jeff couldnt you make some neat holes in the inner wings for hot air to escape through the wheel arches.?? I noticed 2 verticle rectangle inlays on the front sections of the inner wings if you cut the centre sections out l reckon alot of the hot air would escape. Just a thought 👍
Hi Jeff Love to watch the build progress. I have a question about your oil temp. How is it? Your engine temp could rise because of oil temp to, just a tough.
I think instead of removing the bash plate, louvre it. At speed it will tend to suck air and not flow through the radiator. Louvres will help suck air through the radiator.
It's a fair point, not wanting the car to over-heat in 40c weather, even if the idle was high due to that unplugged plenum. After all, that's what stop-go traffic is like right? BTW, I'm turning 48 this year, and my eyes are still perfect... The hairline, not so much. 🙂 Win some, lose some, such is life!
I had perfect vision(ish) until i hit about 46ish then it went down hill abit. OFC i refused to admit I couldn't read text without extending my arm abit. Then I got reading glasses, and forgot were I leave them.
I'm doubtful that removing the bash plate will help, and won't aid the car's underbody areo. I suspect you need air flow at the rear of the engine , below the gearbox and at each side too. There's not much air going to get out at the front, see how the airflow is from the the fans, it won't flow down, it will flow back. Keep the great work
I'm no engineer but wouldn't a heavy gauge grid cover work just as well as that plate ? Also on the airflow - wing vents would probably work fairly well
If air exit was the problem it would probably happen at speed as well. Large single fan flows best.
7 месяцев назад
The vacuum leak doesn't just raise idle, it makes the mixture way to lean, which raises temperature significantly. The ECU will try to adjust the mixture via the oxygen sensors, but that won't be perfect. I expect plugging the vacuum leak will improve temperature
Jeff I will repeat myself , if an engine overheats due to the air in the engine bay getting too hot then the problem is not the hot air it is the fact that the pump is not abole to circulate the coolant around the engine and the engine is also suffering a temperature variation of more than 10 degree's celsius. All roads lead to the pumps ability to circulate the coolant. The engine bay should be a cocoon of heat that the engine has built up so that it is able to stop using excess fuel in order to replace the heat it is losing. If other people are telling you otherwise then please ask them if they have EVER paid close attention to the circulating pump of any given engine they have worked on. Do any of those people know what the required rate of flow is for any iCE with a cooling system is, if they cannot quote that figure then they are full of sh&t We have done 30,000 hours on engine dyno and engine bay testing to prove what I am saying. It is common sense when you realise the importance of a properly operating cooling system. Air intake temperature for a petrol engine should be 60 degrees celsius, and we have proven this on engine dyno. Temperature temperature temperature and only then will your engine be able to be properly tuned.
I hear what you are saying and that , but the fact that it cooled perfectly on the dyno (sat steady at 70 degrees so probably working too well), with the dyno fan tells me it is an airflow problem. If the fans are going but they can't draw air through the radiator because it has a massive pressure build up in the engine bay then the radiator won't do anything, regardless of too much or too little water flow. That is not to say the water flow could not also be an issue, but there was definitely an airflow problem.
I'm with 1darrylolife here. There's no harm in improving air flow, but there is a great deal more heat to get rid of under power on the dyno, because the engine is at best 40% efficient. The other 60% of heat from the fuel goes out via the exhaust and coolant, maybe 30% each. At idle the amount of heat going to the coolant is tiny by comparison, maybe 1% or so of what it's making on the dyno at full power, so why does it only overheat at idle? Did it run and stay cool on the dyno idling for a long time? If so, maybe it's a bit of both - better engine bay air flow and better coolant flow at idle needed. If not I'd look at the coolant flow at idle.
@@salamander5703 From the information provided by Jeff, the engine remained at a pefectly 'cool' (70 degree C) temperature courtesy of the large external electric fan provided by the Dyno facility. In my experience the fans used by Dyno testing facilities are powerful to the extent the breeze generated becomes uncomfortable if you are at a close proximity to the car - i.e. Dyno facilities don't skimp on air movement machines.
Vacuum leak wouldn't have help with the cooling issue, Vacuum leak can cause a Lean type issue leading to excessive cylinder temp and excessive heat into the cooling system causing to struggle to cope.
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Jeff, put louvers in the under tray with them opening toward the back of the car so as the air passing under the car in affect suckes the hot air out. I did this to my car and the temperature dropped by 15 degrees
A couple naca ducts on the bottom of that bash plate shock suck the air out nicely.
@@Simb-l naca ducts are inlets, not outlets
Standard sump guard on my old Hilux has loovers
Or some naca ducts..
Go rally style and just drill some large holes in the bash plate. They do it so 1) it aids cooling but 2) also to allow flood water out.
Remember the Holden Torana LC LJ GTR XU1 front Air Dam, It was there to make a low pressure area behind it to draw air through the radiator. The VL Commodore had the same kind of thing made in plastic so it could flex.
I think Mrs Jeff wants the garden done !!!!
Lols on the glasses when welding. It really improves your welds hey 😂. If you think 40s are a challenge, wait until you hit the mid 50s mate!
60's are even better (worse)!! haha. True, the specs make a BIG difference
Eat your carrots...
Jeff, I think you’ve diagnosed your cooling issue correctly. If you want to retain the “bash plate” you might consider putting a fan or two in it if there’s room, to PULL the air that’s gone through the radiator OUT of the engine bay. This is similar to tightly cowled piston aircraft…airflow out is just as important as airflow in. Most piston aircraft are air cooled, but the same principle applies.
Agree here! Fan to pull that air at slow speeds, traffic etc.
Louvers on the "bash plate". My Toyota trucks have all had that feature.
I swapped my fan from a ebay special to a mishimoto race fan , I would louvre the sump guard to direct air out of engine bay , also try have the bonnet open slightly to see if temperature actually decrease before adding bonnet vents, you can get prescription lenses to go into welding masks
Well done on staying so upbeat when you're pulling the engine yet again to cut into the presumed finished and painted crossmember and mounts that were done such a long time ago. I think it would have broken my heart to do that and wouldn't have wanted to film that part. I hope the engine bay cleans up nicely before the engine goes back in.
Every little bit will help. I forget, have you tried using a wrap on the exhaust headers? That will help keep some heat out of the engine compartment.
Speaking of vision, I was in a hurry and trying to get a project car assembled so I could shuffle cars around the shop, and punched myself in the face with a 1/2" ratchet! I really did a number on myself. Split my eyebrow, 2 huge lumps on my head, one from the socket and the other from where I pulled pack into the door pinch weld, and my vision in my right eye is almost gone. Which was my good eye!
Fingers crossed I can see to weld tomorrow. Have a huge fabric job on at work.
You need a shroud around the fan to draw enough air to cool the radiator. The shroud allows the fan to pull air through the radiator's entire surface area, increasing its efficiency. The fan should be centered within the shroud. That tends to be the best location to draw air through the full surface of the radiator
💯% Agree
Yes was going to say this.
There's no real shroud on them fans.
It can't suck in enough air efficiently.
There is a shroud. There is a whole video of me making it and you could see it in the last couple of videos ;)
Yea definitely needs a shroud
@@HomeBuiltByJeff I’ll go try and find that Jeff. If you’ve done a shroud already then I wonder if there is too much water flow through the radiator because if it runs through too fast it might not be staying in the radiator long enough to cool off at idle?
Regarding the vacuum leak...be careful, if you have MAF based ECU tuning, then whole tune would be off now, after the fix, because you actually tuned with less measured airmass, than actually entered the engine. If you have speed-density tune (MAP based) then you're OK, because you tuned according to actual measured MAP in intake plenum.
Jeff, welcome to getting older. As a rule, you should have surface area equal to your radiator intake for the outflow and preferably about 20% larger. The idea of the louvers in the bash tray is good, as long as the louvers are shaped correctly. The other option is outflow NACA ducts in the bash tray, but I do not know if you have enough space above the tray to install them. Adding the fan shroud is a must, especially for idling conditions. Keep working on solving this, you will get it right.
Skid factory represent! Woody will be proud!
Jeff top work on this fella, you're a legend!
Reading glasses for things other than reading... who'da thunk it and welcome to the club. lol Another stellar episode, Jeff.
To assist the engine cooling cut out the triangular areas you mentioned and 3D print a grille to fit in there.
Louvre type reversed scoops in the under tray / bash plate would assist greatly. You could do a series of small louvres or a larger single reversed "bonnet scoop" to allow large volumes of air out under the engine.
I would tend to leave the plate in because of the mud and spray up into the engine bay if it is removed. Makes cleaning the bay a lot harder.
It also reduces water, mud and debri onto fan and serpentine belts which helps them to maintain friction and not slip so easily under load in night time adverse conditions .........
Jeff - as ever I feel for you. Tough decisions to make on such minor issues.
But the last 10% I always found takes so so so much time.
We both know that.
But hey - needs must.
Jeff, welcome to the Club of Revelation. I had the same discovery about a year ago. My welds also suddenly got a lot better. Thing is, now you need to avoid seeing your old welds with your glasses on..
The new fan will make a huge difference. If will just push the air around the engine and out the bottom.
Also noted cutting a louver in the bash plate to pick up that high speed air and use it to vacuum the air out of the engine bay. There are high pressure areas on either side near the tires from the "tire squish" as they push the air out of the way. Air dams could be installed on the bash plate to block the tire squish air from filling the low pressure area you want under and behind the engine. Great work powering through these hiccups !!!
Ciao from Italy 🇮🇹
Bashplate: Keep but aerate!! Great vid!!
Wow, what a lot of work again, and sawing in your beautiful car 😬
It will certainly look very nice again and you have come up with beautiful solutions again. I have no idea but a rack or mesh on the underside would provide protection and sufficient cooling?
Good luck 💪🏻🙂
Hot Rod louvers would look nice in the bash plate.
Hey Jeff - that is a lot of challenges that you are overcoming there - well done mate! btw you can get magnifying lenses that clip to the inside of welding helmets in place of the internal clear - no reading glasses required.
Looking good! Do enjoy when you cut into the Alfa!
Great work as always!
Nice work Jeff, good to have the extra clearance, and fingers crossed the cooling issues will be resolved with your latest ideas! 🤞😎🔥
Fingers crossed :D
you could use the GTV style bash guard with the slats rather than the solid panel.
Looking good Jeff, when we were developing and building supercars (rear engined worse) heat was always a massive issue. Maybe modding the bonnet with the hump continuing to the back edge by windscreen and then having a vent along the back edge of the hump …. that will help the rising heat escape along the back edge and out. The easier way with old racecars was to lift the back edge of a bonnet with lift spacers to create a gap….. enjoying your content mate 👍👍👍
The bash plate will actually help cooling when the vehicle is at speed if you just put some louvers in it. Removing it will reduce the air flow going through the radiator because air can just go underneath without the bash plate.
I would leave it skid plate on but louver it or put holes in it.
Great video mate!
-Spanky
Glad to see that you might have found the source of all the issues. Looking forward to see you drive it!
Huge amount of work for the clearance that is not needed, except for the inspection.
Small dimple die punch holes in the bash plate will a) Allow for better airflow and b) Make the bash plate stronger.
Keep the "bash guard" but cut longitudinal gaps maybe 1" wide and 1,25" apart in it. That way if you DO hit anything, it will still work as intended, Should be enough to vent hot air down and out.
Where have a "bash plate", many high performance cars have only an aerodynamic device. It might even be soft. You could put vents in it that only allow air out.
The optional Alfa guard had longitudinal slots, almost making it look like a series of strips rather than a solid plate.
Air intake slit vents in the bash plate could help too. I saw that many times.
ruclips.net/video/a2Jk8IPgLFI/видео.htmlsi=vB8VtXrsIBcSBWF6
Bahaha.,did the same thing with cutting rust patches aswell as welding. The "Optimist" told me I had perfect sight! For my AGE.....
Jeff thanks for awesome video's.
Just a thought on vacuum leaks in general. Either buy or make a simple smoke generator and connect to whatever you want to check, - see LR Time he has a nice one, works very well.
On my 1986 Alfa Romeo GTV6 I have a overheating temperature when the A/C was on so I installed a cooling fan in front of the rad and left the original twin fans in the back of the rad and it solved my overheating issues, you may want to try that Jeff, I wouldn't cut louvers in the hood. Good luck.
I think you want to avoid aerodynamic add-ons, but... a small front air dam will help evacuate the radiator air. Combine with some enlarged exit routes.
So cool to be at the point of dialing the car in now. What a journey it has been. Great work Jeff!
The reason for the aftermarket sump guards on Alfas was the vulnerability to concrete parking lot piers, not road hazards.
Hey up mate , nice work you're getting there
You can press nice louvers in the bash-plate.. 😂
Another great video 👍
Don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but you can get magnified lenses for your Welding mask 😁
Just holes in bashplate,and 2 spal fans not just one😉 regards sören
Good work Jeffo. Ahh oil fire, no big deal...you're well trained to handle that situation.
Few days late on this, but what if for the bash plate you go with what some of the originals ones had (And my one) was basically a cage protector, just a few ribs to protect, shouldn't be to hard to find pics.
Other suggestion, if you did have to do something to the hood why not look at the latest alfa Gulia QV and the vents its got on its hood, way more subtle and could be something you could get, laser scan and 3d print for mock-up.
Louvre the bash plate
Good work Jeff and Mrs Jeff
Great video, as usually! I really look forward to when you upload a new video 😊
Jeff you can put the baseplate back just drill it. Make 25 holes in it. Like a grid plate (is that EN) you have the protection and the ventilation.
Put luevers on the bask plate??
Jeff and just remember heat rises too so maybe do something with the clear panel in the bonnet, great work as always you seem to be able to over come any issues you have with relatively little trouble. And yes add some reverse louvers in the bash plate to suck from the bottom 👍
Good on you Jeff and always Mrs Jeff
Or maybe air vents from the engine bay into the wheel arches? A guess at best, ok at this point I realised you covered that, apologies😂😂😂😂😂
Air is lazy. It will evacuate through the first low pressure area. Instead of removing the skid plate, you could scallop/louver it and it would still be effective for both protection and air removal. Also, I can't tell by looking at your headlights but if you have a gap to the left & right it could be creating an air block from turbulence. Blocking off the sides to force the air to directly flow into the Rad will be more effective in every driving scenario. Thank you for your videos. Keep up the great work.
Have you looked at static pressure fans vs airflow? My understanding is that airflow fans don't work as well as static pressure when it comes to forcing air through radiators especially in tight spaces.
There's info on RUclips about it from high end PC builders that use watercooled loops in their builds.
A nice functional method you could do on the bash plate is to add louvres around six of them, this way the metal in the louvers will direct the air, where a hole has no method of directing the air.
i know you don't want to cut up the engine bay, but what about some formed air outlets in the inner fenders into the wheel arches? it might introduce more dirt into the engine bay but if you shaped and placed them carefully it could be another under bonnet solution
If these mods aren't enough to lower the temps, maybe you could louver the inner wings,and let som air out over the wheels? Some cars from that period had vents in the top of the wings too. If that's too difficult with all the stuff you got packed in everywhere, maybe vents or louvers eihter side of the window, above the exhaust manifolds? That could help with rising heat when stationary too. Of course all my suggestions would send you back to the paint booth.
As an experiment, you might want to temporarily demount the horns behind the front grill to see if that might increase the airflow. A more powerful fan should certainly help, but air inlet resistance, as well as outlet resistance all factor into the cooling.
Jeff, your engine overheating is at idle in traffic and when you move it’s alright, right? Heat rises and for this reason you need some louvers on the hood for the heat escape from the engine bay. Louvers can be done very clean and good looking, check Lancia Stratos or Delta. Keep up the good work and Godspeed from California 🇺🇸
I’m not on telegram
A lean condition will contribute to an overheating issue too.
Where is the Discovery Channel?
You’re stuff is better than most are their car nonsense
Jeff, bit basic, but have you tested the thermostat? May look OK but test it to make sure. Also have a look to make sure coolant flow is not restricted.
YOU GOT BIG %#((s Mate, cutting into a finished beautiful car. You are a mad scientist I LOVE THIS CONTENT!!!
Heavily humped between the front wheels - like a ripple strip at the track? or a high crown or some sort of demarcation parking strip on a road course?
And yes, I would also rather see louvres in the bash plate rather than the bonnet, maybe even with bracing rods to restore the strength if needed.
you can buy magnifying lens for your welding helmut
Jeff,get a cheater lens for the welding mask, game changer 👍🏻
hi Jeff..why not replace pleciglass in hood,with hexagon design you used for the front grill.
Is there bleader valves on the heads to release air pockets? Ceramic coating the headers will decrease the temperature also.
Hey Jeff couldnt you make some neat holes in the inner wings for hot air to escape through the wheel arches.?? I noticed 2 verticle rectangle inlays on the front sections of the inner wings if you cut the centre sections out l reckon alot of the hot air would escape. Just a thought 👍
Unfortunately that has the castor rods mounted directly behind that.
Inspiring.
Great job 👏🏻
Speed holes in the bashplate, and a shroud on the rad
Be careful there Jeff...you just might start seeing most replayed @ 19:00 😁🤣
Just louver the bash plate
Hi Jeff
Love to watch the build progress. I have a question about your oil temp. How is it? Your engine temp could rise because of oil temp to, just a tough.
u could race car dimple die punch the bash plate jeffrey ,will be stronger imo .lov your work
This was what I was thinking. Dimple die would open it right up and make it stronger 👍🏼
I think instead of removing the bash plate, louvre it. At speed it will tend to suck air and not flow through the radiator. Louvres will help suck air through the radiator.
It's a fair point, not wanting the car to over-heat in 40c weather, even if the idle was high due to that unplugged plenum. After all, that's what stop-go traffic is like right? BTW, I'm turning 48 this year, and my eyes are still perfect... The hairline, not so much. 🙂 Win some, lose some, such is life!
I had perfect vision(ish) until i hit about 46ish then it went down hill abit. OFC i refused to admit I couldn't read text without extending my arm abit. Then I got reading glasses, and forgot were I leave them.
I'm doubtful that removing the bash plate will help, and won't aid the car's underbody areo. I suspect you need air flow at the rear of the engine , below the gearbox and at each side too. There's not much air going to get out at the front, see how the airflow is from the the fans, it won't flow down, it will flow back. Keep the great work
I'm no engineer but wouldn't a heavy gauge grid cover work just as well as that plate ?
Also on the airflow - wing vents would probably work fairly well
Was thinking this.
Or a fine mesh ?
Still think there should be some sort of under tray just for protection...
Base plate...fabricate grills pointing towards the rear
If air exit was the problem it would probably happen at speed as well. Large single fan flows best.
The vacuum leak doesn't just raise idle, it makes the mixture way to lean, which raises temperature significantly. The ECU will try to adjust the mixture via the oxygen sensors, but that won't be perfect. I expect plugging the vacuum leak will improve temperature
It wasn't suffering high idle when getting a base tune on Dyno so that vac port must have been opened up after
Just another day in the office, Jeff🔧⛏
Did you think about the waterless coolant
Jeff I will repeat myself , if an engine overheats due to the air in the engine bay getting too hot then the problem is not the hot air it is the fact that the pump is not abole to circulate the coolant around the engine and the engine is also suffering a temperature variation of more than 10 degree's celsius. All roads lead to the pumps ability to circulate the coolant. The engine bay should be a cocoon of heat that the engine has built up so that it is able to stop using excess fuel in order to replace the heat it is losing. If other people are telling you otherwise then please ask them if they have EVER paid close attention to the circulating pump of any given engine they have worked on. Do any of those people know what the required rate of flow is for any iCE with a cooling system is, if they cannot quote that figure then they are full of sh&t We have done 30,000 hours on engine dyno and engine bay testing to prove what I am saying. It is common sense when you realise the importance of a properly operating cooling system. Air intake temperature for a petrol engine should be 60 degrees celsius, and we have proven this on engine dyno. Temperature temperature temperature and only then will your engine be able to be properly tuned.
I hear what you are saying and that , but the fact that it cooled perfectly on the dyno (sat steady at 70 degrees so probably working too well), with the dyno fan tells me it is an airflow problem. If the fans are going but they can't draw air through the radiator because it has a massive pressure build up in the engine bay then the radiator won't do anything, regardless of too much or too little water flow. That is not to say the water flow could not also be an issue, but there was definitely an airflow problem.
I'm with 1darrylolife here. There's no harm in improving air flow, but there is a great deal more heat to get rid of under power on the dyno, because the engine is at best 40% efficient. The other 60% of heat from the fuel goes out via the exhaust and coolant, maybe 30% each. At idle the amount of heat going to the coolant is tiny by comparison, maybe 1% or so of what it's making on the dyno at full power, so why does it only overheat at idle?
Did it run and stay cool on the dyno idling for a long time? If so, maybe it's a bit of both - better engine bay air flow and better coolant flow at idle needed. If not I'd look at the coolant flow at idle.
@@salamander5703 From the information provided by Jeff, the engine remained at a pefectly 'cool' (70 degree C) temperature courtesy of the large external electric fan provided by the Dyno facility. In my experience the fans used by Dyno testing facilities are powerful to the extent the breeze generated becomes uncomfortable if you are at a close proximity to the car - i.e. Dyno facilities don't skimp on air movement machines.
Better to vent that air up than down (aerodynamics/lift).. Why not louver your hood bump?
Vacuum leak wouldn't have help with the cooling issue, Vacuum leak can cause a Lean type issue leading to excessive cylinder temp and excessive heat into the cooling system causing to struggle to cope.
Naca vents aft on bonnet?
Have you thought about waterless coolant for better cooling?
doesnt it hurt to cut metal into that fresh paint?
100% sure you don't have a cylinder head leak? if yes you might need a proper dimensioned water pump to solve issue.