How do you like your Acer Surface grinder? My employer is wanting to get a brand new Kent surface grinder for our Toolroom and i think that they are pretty much the same machine? Was just curious as to how accurate they are. Thanks in advance.
Hi Joe, Thanks, that means a lot to us. It was our hope that others would benefit in some way from the videos. So when we get feedback like this it really does encourage us to continue. Steve
Very nice thank you! We have been trying to figure out trueing up the diamond wheels prior to running some bench stones. The hing clamping fixtures is a great low tech method for holding the stones as well thanks for sharing!
Hi JBFromOZ. We did 5 set of those stones. The diamond wheel seemed to get better the more we did. I used those stones a lot since grinding them and I love them. I can't thank Robin enough for sharing his video with us. I hope things work out for you guys. Thanks for commenting. Steve
Thank You for demonstrating truing up the diamond wheel, I have wondered how to do that. I also have a small machine shop just for my own prototypes and inventions that I work on for my customers. Always limited resources and time . The bench stones from Robin are on my to do list as well so this was timely. I will try it on my Jones and Shipman 540, hopefully it´s up to the job. I have previously used a white soft Tyrolite stone that seems to behave similar to the Norton India ground stones, just cutting of the burrs. Interesting that Your wheel trued up over time cutting the stones., that would seem like handy way to maintain both stones and diamond wheel...
Reminds me of Tom's "How thick is a Sharpie mark" vid. You guys are putting out some very watchable quality content. Glad your here and appreciate it. One of these days I will get me a surface grinder and give these a shot but until then I was lucky enough to get on Robin's waiting list for one, not sure which will come first but either way these are a great tool to have and I can't wait to have one!
Hi Steve, Thanks for the kind comments. Not to long ago I watched the video you mentioned by Tom Lipton. I found it interesting that different colors had different thicknesses. Tom does a great job and has a lot to offer. We are happy you are enjoying the videos. Steve
Because of Tom's sharpie mark video, I now have to look sideways at surface plate cleaners that have lanolin or other ingredients that remain on the plate after the liquids evaporate. Sure your tools zip right across the plate - on a film that is how thick, and how even?
Just did this myself. The cheap wheel I had was .007 out :-(. But it worked. The wheel is a 180/75 . Seems as the finish at 1st is course but the more I use it the better it seems to get. Took hours. Thanks for the video Steve, very nicely done
Just a thought but could you clamp your white Alox stick to the mag chuck and true up the wheel by running across it? Methinks it might be messy but if it works by hand holding it should also work by using the cross feed.
Hi Chis, That is a good thought but the reason I used the stick by hand was so I could hit the high spots an not touch the low. Your thinking is good because I did notice that the more bench stones we ground the truer the diamond wheel became. Steve
Steve - I use moly blocks to tru a diamond wheel up. You can buy them in round that fit in a diamond dresser but i prefer a square 1”x 1” moly. This seems to work very well to tru it up. I’m interested in diamond wheels grit size - roughing, medium and finish passes on carbide surfaces. How much you can take off in each pass depending on the grit size. Finishes for polished surfaces. Any knowledge you have on this subject.
I use a Norton 150 grit 100 concentration wheel. Because I do so little in carbide I rough and finish with this wheel but the roughing is very gentle. I try to rough using the whole wheel surface on the bottom and plunge grind in order not to wear the bottom of the wheel unevenly. I take very light cuts while doing this. I will finish the last .0005" or so traversing in the Y axis like normal grinding for finish and accuracy. If the part is round and has a lot of stock on it I will turn it on the lathes with diamond inserts to get it close. We have a video on that too. We use the Moly block at my full time job with so so results. Using the white sticks like shown in the video works very fast and if done properly it is surprisingly accurate. Steve
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. yeah i do a lot of diamond flat grinding on carbide. We use 220 grit to do you all the grinding. Most cases seem to work well. Plunge grinding keeps the wheel truest, but sometimes i like to get an angle created to let one edge work more with less heat. Really .0002” angle on a 1/4 inch wheel. Yeah there not really much videos out their on Diamond wheel dressing techniques. Just thought to ask. Thanks for all you shared. I’ll have to watch all you videos but enjoying your passion Steve!!! Thanks JB
Just wondering why you would not mount the (SC)stone and make passes on on it to true it up? you have may induce chatter and in no way can keep the surface square. Would love to here you input. Great video.
If you are careful the method I used in this video works very well. I have done it many times with the same results. The stone stick is used to remove the resin so that the diamond is exposed. I had great finishes on carbide, others who had seen the finishes first hand where amazed. The flatness of the wheel was great too. If the resin bonding is to hard it is more difficult to get the same results. Steve
We use brake dressers with diamond wheels, i usually downfeed .0008-.0012 each direction until it passes the ear test, then .0002/3 each direction to flatten out. White sticks open up the bonding of the wheel, “semi” dressing them, they are usually used to open up a loaded/glazed wheel BUT they can be used to dress, and in your case you got it down to within .0001/2... not many guys can figure it out let alone do it. You got some smarts buddy
Mount a grit wheel on a spin fixture like a Harig head. Turn grit wheel opposit direction as diamond wheel and make some passes. Work about as fast a a brake truer.
I have worked at a couple carbide shops that hade the fancy truers, one powered with graduations. Now all i have is worn down grit wheels and whatever i can find to bolt them to and spin. Something powered is sweet. I have used dumores lightely clamped in a v block with an angle block to get angles trued on cup wheels also.@@SolidRockMachineShopInc
9:23 this is getting a little confusing. You mentioned to use a 'smaller' grit than the wheel is, do you mean coarser? or finer? For instance my diamond wheel is 120 What stick do you recommend I use to dress mine up? I've never tried diamond yet but want to mount mine up. It's a Norton SD120-R100B99-1/4 (I'm assuming it's 120g). Great content tyvm
Hi Bobby, The grit in the white stick needs to be finer that the diamond grit. If your diamond is 120 grit a 220 white stick grit will work fine. the grit in the white stick has to be smaller than the grit of the diamond wheel so that it can cut the resin between each diamond particle. Steve
if the r/o is excessive you can tap wheel within a thou or so and tighten the adapter a molly stick works best, check the spindle taper on machine it should run .0002 or less some machines are sloppy. you can true spindle taper with a carbide tool bit sliding on a sine plate 8.32 deg I think , dressing works better on slow spindle speeds.
I am of the school of thought that you never, never grind soft material with a diamond wheel. I always would put a brand new wheel on an arbor, indicate it true, and use it only on carbide steels. The depth of each grinding pass would be just a few tenths of a thousandths. I suppose if you have a wheel that's been misused, you have to use these tactics to get it straightened out though. Keep up the good work while spreading the knowledge. We need more people like you!
Hi old magician, It is true that you should not grind steel with diamond. In this case I am truing the wheel using the destruction soft steel does to diamond in a controlled manner. The method works great on this wheel and it was fast. I had some of the best finishes on carbide after using this method. Steve
I worked at one shop where we did a lot of surface grinding with diamond wheels. To dress the wheel, we had a block of molybdenum attached to a piece of steel so it would stick to the magnetic chuck. The block was about 1" x .5" x 6". We would grind the moly block to dress the diamond wheel. If you go this route, make sure you cover the chuck with a piece of paper or you end up with diamond bits embedded into your chuck. They look like little star shapes when you stone off your chuck. We just used the white sticks to clean the wheel between dressings.
I love your channel but I'd like to give an opinion ...... at 7:20 you mute the sound to not be offensive I'd surmise, but honestly we're here to learn and sound is a good part of taking in what's going on. In my opinion I'd rather have the sound ON and if it's too bad I can turn it down. Just 2c
I think hardkrash was referring to the tool borrowed from the coworker, the one with the round base. I'm just thinking out loud here, but maybe a soft, gummy material might work for this application as well, it will wear fast of course, but might be a way out of a tight situation, the idea behind is that the soft material would generate heat in the wheel, which may loosen the resin bonding the diamond, and the loose grit may then be transferred and embedded into the soft dresser and serve as an abrasive. I'll even give it a try later, I sharpened some tig electrodes on the bench grinders diamond wheel, and it could use some maintenance.
Hi jz1199, You may be correct. If so, no that tool was not molybdenum. This was more like diamond particles encased in steel. I have used this type of tool for CBN and it works well but not for diamond. i think you are correct on the softer material. With the CRS I was able to take the .002 run out of the wheel but getting it flat was the work of the white aluminum oxide sticks. Thanks for commenting Steve
Well, I hate to say it you did everything wrong. Either you must use a speed reducer for diamond and borazon wheels, or you must buy a wheel diameter to match your spindle speed. I will guessing that your grinder should have about a 5" diameter wheel. Never grind any soft material or even hardened steels without having the right type of diamond wheel. Once you true the wheel, never take it off the hub, even put witness marks on the hub and spindle so they can be put back to the same location. some diamond wheels can be use dry, some cannot ever be used dry. the dressing stick is NOT to be used at full running speed, not wet, the slower the rpm the better, you just jam it into a slow rotating wheel until the wheel almost stops. it is to remove the binder between the diamonds for chip cutting clearance . you do need to rough true the wheel , but you do not need to use an indicator, use a small piece of steel on the chuck, just barely tighten the wheel by hand, now rotate the wheel by hand an down feed it so the starts to touch the block and the tap with a soft piece of material, not metal. keep feeding down as the wheel centers but you will still have to dress it true. The molybdenum sticks I have found are better than the brake truing devices, but I use them just as you would dress a stone wheel, only traverse from to back, or back to front,a .0002" downfeed at a time, and if you want a sharp corner on the diamond wheel , feed into that corner with the moly stick. I have missed many things here ,but maybe this will help you a little. depending on what you want to grind, there are many stock diamond wheels, but usually you should order a wheel , or wheels for your specific application. eg. roughing, finishing, concentration of the diamonds, etc. I have never had any of the off the shelf wheel work very well. diamond wheels do not like to run at the same speeds as a stone wheel would run, sometimes you can even smell them when they run too fast. Good luck.
Hi Glenn Thanks for the pointers and info. For doing everything wrong the results were awesome. I am aware of the dressing stick's main purpose but I am using it differently for a different purpose. The method I used with the dressing sticks works very well and I have done it many times with great results every time. I do not have a speed reducer so that is not an option for me. I am one of those guys who goes outside the norm to get things done. If I went by the book on everything I do I would never discover some of the amazing things that can be done by experimenting. In the early days of hard turning I went against the norm on 90% of what was accepted at the time and now what I did back then is the norm in many shops. I have used the moly block before with so-so results. The results I got from doing things in the video were far better than I ever had with a moly block. I never want to be locked in that box that says everything must be done certain ways. Have you tried the methods I showed in the video? If you do and try them the way I show I think you would be pleased with the results if you are unbiased. If you haven't tried the methods I showed or did them incorrectly it would be hard to say I did everything wrong with any authority. On this issue I can speak with authority because I have done it both ways and I know what works best. By the way, that Norton wheel that I bought off the shelf works awesome and this is coming from someone that is not a big fan of Norton! I write this way for the sake of the viewers, because I would hate to see them get locked into a way of thinking like you are that 'My way or a certain way is the only way'. Some of the most amazing toolmakers I have ever worked with would never get locked with this kind of thinking. Steve
Do you complain also to the fire department that a fire was put out wrong? Cheez, there are multiple ways of doing things to achieve the wanted end result and you can't always have everything like a book says.
The best way is a brake dresser with green silicon dressing wheels. I actually prefer “black carborundum” pardon my spelling, version for the same brake dresser. MSC part number 81548141. I also index my wheels to the spindle at 12 o’clock with a dot for remounting in the future. We only use Norton resin/vit wheels along with diamond plated steel form wheels in our shop as we grind solely carbide.
I don't have one of those yet so this is the method I use. It actually works very well. I used a brake dresser at a company I use to work at in combination with the white sticks with amazing results. Steve
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Robins video link ruclips.net/video/DVLXsq7pi9Y/видео.html
Making of the hold down clamp video link ruclips.net/video/0Xywab9tgcc/видео.html
How do you like your Acer Surface grinder? My employer is wanting to get a brand new Kent surface grinder for our Toolroom and i think that they are pretty much the same machine? Was just curious as to how accurate they are. Thanks in advance.
You make some great videos and they are very much appreciated. I learn something from every video. Thank You.
Hi Joe,
Thanks, that means a lot to us. It was our hope that others would benefit in some way from the videos. So when we get feedback like this it really does encourage us to continue.
Steve
Very nice thank you! We have been trying to figure out trueing up the diamond wheels prior to running some bench stones. The hing clamping fixtures is a great low tech method for holding the stones as well thanks for sharing!
Hi JBFromOZ.
We did 5 set of those stones. The diamond wheel seemed to get better the more we did. I used those stones a lot since grinding them and I love them. I can't thank Robin enough for sharing his video with us. I hope things work out for you guys. Thanks for commenting. Steve
I to plan on making some of my own stones.Great video, enjoyed. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Randy,
I love those stones and use them a lot. They work great for the surface grinder magnetic chuck.
Thank You for demonstrating truing up the diamond wheel, I have wondered how to do that.
I also have a small machine shop just for my own prototypes and inventions that I work on for my customers. Always limited resources and time . The bench stones from Robin are on my to do list as well so this was timely. I will try it on my Jones and Shipman 540, hopefully it´s up to the job. I have previously used a white soft Tyrolite stone that seems to behave similar to the Norton India ground stones, just cutting of the burrs. Interesting that Your wheel trued up over time cutting the stones., that would seem like handy way to maintain both stones and diamond wheel...
Hi Erik,
You are welcome. You will love those stones, I use mine often.
Steve
Reminds me of Tom's "How thick is a Sharpie mark" vid. You guys are putting out some very watchable quality content. Glad your here and appreciate it. One of these days I will get me a surface grinder and give these a shot but until then I was lucky enough to get on Robin's waiting list for one, not sure which will come first but either way these are a great tool to have and I can't wait to have one!
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the kind comments. Not to long ago I watched the video you mentioned by Tom Lipton. I found it interesting that different colors had different thicknesses. Tom does a great job and has a lot to offer. We are happy you are enjoying the videos.
Steve
Because of Tom's sharpie mark video, I now have to look sideways at surface plate cleaners that have lanolin or other ingredients that remain on the plate after the liquids evaporate. Sure your tools zip right across the plate - on a film that is how thick, and how even?
Just did this myself. The cheap wheel I had was .007 out :-(. But it worked. The wheel is a 180/75 . Seems as the finish at 1st is course but the more I use it the better it seems to get. Took hours.
Thanks for the video Steve, very nicely done
Hi Steve,
Glad it worked out for you. You will love the new possibilities you now have with that grinder.
Steve
Just a thought but could you clamp your white Alox stick to the mag chuck and true up the wheel by running across it? Methinks it might be messy but if it works by hand holding it should also work by using the cross feed.
Hi Chis,
That is a good thought but the reason I used the stick by hand was so I could hit the high spots an not touch the low. Your thinking is good because I did notice that the more bench stones we ground the truer the diamond wheel became.
Steve
Thanks very much, some good tips there.
You're welcome Pete.
Steve
Cool video
Steve - I use moly blocks to tru a diamond wheel up. You can buy them in round that fit in a diamond dresser but i prefer a square 1”x 1” moly. This seems to work very well to tru it up. I’m interested in diamond wheels grit size - roughing, medium and finish passes on carbide surfaces. How much you can take off in each pass depending on the grit size. Finishes for polished surfaces. Any knowledge you have on this subject.
I use a Norton 150 grit 100 concentration wheel. Because I do so little in carbide I rough and finish with this wheel but the roughing is very gentle. I try to rough using the whole wheel surface on the bottom and plunge grind in order not to wear the bottom of the wheel unevenly. I take very light cuts while doing this. I will finish the last .0005" or so traversing in the Y axis like normal grinding for finish and accuracy. If the part is round and has a lot of stock on it I will turn it on the lathes with diamond inserts to get it close. We have a video on that too. We use the Moly block at my full time job with so so results. Using the white sticks like shown in the video works very fast and if done properly it is surprisingly accurate.
Steve
Solid Rock Machine Shop Inc. yeah i do a lot of diamond flat grinding on carbide. We use 220 grit to do you all the grinding. Most cases seem to work well. Plunge grinding keeps the wheel truest, but sometimes i like to get an angle created to let one edge work more with less heat. Really .0002” angle on a 1/4 inch wheel. Yeah there not really much videos out their on Diamond wheel dressing techniques. Just thought to ask. Thanks for all you shared. I’ll have to watch all you videos but enjoying your passion Steve!!! Thanks JB
Thanks for the video Sir
You're welcome.
Steve
Just wondering why you would not mount the (SC)stone and make passes on on it to true it up? you have may induce chatter and in no way can keep the surface square. Would love to here you input. Great video.
If you are careful the method I used in this video works very well. I have done it many times with the same results. The stone stick is used to remove the resin so that the diamond is exposed. I had great finishes on carbide, others who had seen the finishes first hand where amazed. The flatness of the wheel was great too. If the resin bonding is to hard it is more difficult to get the same results.
Steve
Excellent !!
Thanks.
Use a pice of moly b. Just run wheel across the end. That material will get gummy rap itself around the diamond and pull it out.
We use brake dressers with diamond wheels, i usually downfeed .0008-.0012 each direction until it passes the ear test, then .0002/3 each direction to flatten out. White sticks open up the bonding of the wheel, “semi” dressing them, they are usually used to open up a loaded/glazed wheel BUT they can be used to dress, and in your case you got it down to within .0001/2... not many guys can figure it out let alone do it. You got some smarts buddy
Mount a grit wheel on a spin fixture like a Harig head. Turn grit wheel opposit direction as diamond wheel and make some passes. Work about as fast a a brake truer.
I like it, thanks for the tip.
I have worked at a couple carbide shops that hade the fancy truers, one powered with graduations. Now all i have is worn down grit wheels and whatever i can find to bolt them to and spin. Something powered is sweet. I have used dumores lightely clamped in a v block with an angle block to get angles trued on cup wheels also.@@SolidRockMachineShopInc
9:23 this is getting a little confusing. You mentioned to use a 'smaller' grit than the wheel is, do you mean coarser? or finer? For instance my diamond wheel is 120 What stick do you recommend I use to dress mine up? I've never tried diamond yet but want to mount mine up. It's a Norton SD120-R100B99-1/4 (I'm assuming it's 120g). Great content tyvm
Hi Bobby,
The grit in the white stick needs to be finer that the diamond grit. If your diamond is 120 grit a 220 white stick grit will work fine. the grit in the white stick has to be smaller than the grit of the diamond wheel so that it can cut the resin between each diamond particle.
Steve
@@SolidRockMachineShopInc Excellent thanks very much. I'll search up some 220 aluminum oxide dressing sticks. They sure burn off fast ehh
Got mine from MSC.
Steve
diamond wheel or CBN?
We grind the stones with diamond.
Steve
Bet your not taking that wheel off that arbor anytime soon!
Hi Stan,
You are correct. That wheel has its own hub. I even marked the hub and spindle so that it goes on the same way every time.
Steve
Shadon HKW why
if the r/o is excessive you can tap wheel within a thou or so and tighten the adapter a molly stick works best, check the spindle taper on machine it should run .0002 or less some machines are sloppy. you can true spindle taper with a carbide tool bit sliding on a sine plate 8.32 deg I think , dressing works better on slow spindle speeds.
Thanks for the info Sam.
Steve
I am of the school of thought that you never, never grind soft material with a diamond wheel. I always would put a brand new wheel on an arbor, indicate it true, and use it only on carbide steels. The depth of each grinding pass would be just a few tenths of a thousandths. I suppose if you have a wheel that's been misused, you have to use these tactics to get it straightened out though. Keep up the good work while spreading the knowledge. We need more people like you!
Hi old magician,
It is true that you should not grind steel with diamond. In this case I am truing the wheel using the destruction soft steel does to diamond in a controlled manner. The method works great on this wheel and it was fast. I had some of the best finishes on carbide after using this method.
Steve
I worked at one shop where we did a lot of surface grinding with diamond wheels. To dress the wheel, we had a block of molybdenum attached to a piece of steel so it would stick to the magnetic chuck. The block was about 1" x .5" x 6". We would grind the moly block to dress the diamond wheel. If you go this route, make sure you cover the chuck with a piece of paper or you end up with diamond bits embedded into your chuck. They look like little star shapes when you stone off your chuck. We just used the white sticks to clean the wheel between dressings.
Hi Rob,
At my full time job we have that too. I might be doing something wrong because I never could get it to work very well.
Steve
I was sitting here going... aaaahhh you don't use diamond on steel. Then you said you don't usually.
I love your channel but I'd like to give an opinion ...... at 7:20 you mute the sound to not be offensive I'd surmise, but honestly we're here to learn and sound is a good part of taking in what's going on. In my opinion I'd rather have the sound ON and if it's too bad I can turn it down. Just 2c
That should not be a problem anymore as we now have a quite pump.
Was the diamond dressing block a chunk of molybdenum? if so this patent describes running it slower speeds. www.google.com/patents/US3921616
Hi hardkrash,
No, it was just a piece of cold rolled steel 1018.
Steve
I think hardkrash was referring to the tool borrowed from the coworker, the one with the round base.
I'm just thinking out loud here, but maybe a soft, gummy material might work for this application as well, it will wear fast of course, but might be a way out of a tight situation, the idea behind is that the soft material would generate heat in the wheel, which may loosen the resin bonding the diamond, and the loose grit may then be transferred and embedded into the soft dresser and serve as an abrasive. I'll even give it a try later, I sharpened some tig electrodes on the bench grinders diamond wheel, and it could use some maintenance.
Hi jz1199,
You may be correct. If so, no that tool was not molybdenum. This was more like diamond particles encased in steel. I have used this type of tool for CBN and it works well but not for diamond. i think you are correct on the softer material. With the CRS I was able to take the .002 run out of the wheel but getting it flat was the work of the white aluminum oxide sticks. Thanks for commenting
Steve
Well, I hate to say it you did everything wrong. Either you must use a speed reducer for diamond and borazon wheels, or you must buy a wheel diameter to match your spindle speed. I will guessing that your grinder should have about a 5" diameter wheel. Never grind any soft material or even hardened steels without having the right type of diamond wheel. Once you true the wheel, never take it off the hub, even put witness marks on the hub and spindle so they can be put back to the same location. some diamond wheels can be use dry, some cannot ever be used dry. the dressing stick is NOT to be used at full running speed, not wet, the slower the rpm the better, you just jam it into a slow rotating wheel until the wheel almost stops. it is to remove the binder between the diamonds for chip cutting clearance . you do need to rough true the wheel , but you do not need to use an indicator, use a small piece of steel on the chuck, just barely tighten the wheel by hand, now rotate the wheel by hand an down feed it so the starts to touch the block and the tap with a soft piece of material, not metal. keep feeding down as the wheel centers but you will still have to dress it true. The molybdenum sticks I have found are better than the brake truing devices, but I use them just as you would dress a stone wheel, only traverse from to back, or back to front,a .0002" downfeed at a time, and if you want a sharp corner on the diamond wheel , feed into that corner with the moly stick. I have missed many things here ,but maybe this will help you a little. depending on what you want to grind, there are many stock diamond wheels, but usually you should order a wheel , or wheels for your specific application. eg. roughing, finishing, concentration of the diamonds, etc. I have never had any of the off the shelf wheel work very well. diamond wheels do not like to run at the same speeds as a stone wheel would run, sometimes you can even smell them when they run too fast. Good luck.
Hi Glenn
Thanks for the pointers and info. For doing everything wrong the results were awesome. I am aware of the dressing stick's main purpose but I am using it differently for a different purpose. The method I used with the dressing sticks works very well and I have done it many times with great results every time. I do not have a speed reducer so that is not an option for me. I am one of those guys who goes outside the norm to get things done. If I went by the book on everything I do I would never discover some of the amazing things that can be done by experimenting. In the early days of hard turning I went against the norm on 90% of what was accepted at the time and now what I did back then is the norm in many shops. I have used the moly block before with so-so results. The results I got from doing things in the video were far better than I ever had with a moly block. I never want to be locked in that box that says everything must be done certain ways. Have you tried the methods I showed in the video? If you do and try them the way I show I think you would be pleased with the results if you are unbiased. If you haven't tried the methods I showed or did them incorrectly it would be hard to say I did everything wrong with any authority. On this issue I can speak with authority because I have done it both ways and I know what works best. By the way, that Norton wheel that I bought off the shelf works awesome and this is coming from someone that is not a big fan of Norton! I write this way for the sake of the viewers, because I would hate to see them get locked into a way of thinking like you are that 'My way or a certain way is the only way'. Some of the most amazing toolmakers I have ever worked with would never get locked with this kind of thinking.
Steve
Do you complain also to the fire department that a fire was put out wrong? Cheez, there are multiple ways of doing things to achieve the wanted end result and you can't always have everything like a book says.
The best way is a brake dresser with green silicon dressing wheels. I actually prefer “black carborundum” pardon my spelling, version for the same brake dresser. MSC part number 81548141. I also index my wheels to the spindle at 12 o’clock with a dot for remounting in the future. We only use Norton resin/vit wheels along with diamond plated steel form wheels in our shop as we grind solely carbide.
I don't have one of those yet so this is the method I use. It actually works very well. I used a brake dresser at a company I use to work at in combination with the white sticks with amazing results.
Steve