Bespoke Suit Fitting With Eric Jensen ✂️ | Kirby Allison
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- Kirby Allison and Eric Jensen, of Stefano Bemer, conduct the first fitting of a new bespoke suit. In 2009 Eric Jensen followed his passion to learn the old world tradition of bespoke tailoring, by attending a prestigious school under a celebrated Italian maestro, Luigi Gallo. Eric graduated from Maestro Gallo's school, receiving his Master Tailor certificate, and he spent 4 additional years as an apprentice to tailor Chris Despos in Chicago.
Now located at 475 Park Ave in New York City, Eric is one of the last American-based tailors to carry on the bespoke tradition. He continues the art of tailoring in it's purest form, hand-drafting each client’s unique body pattern and molding canvas to the specific shapes and curves of the body. At least 30,000 strategically placed hand stitches go into the making of each suit.
Get in touch with Eric Jensen:
/ ericjensen_mastertailor
📸: @ericjensen_mastertailor
Shop Hanger Project: www.kirbyallison.com/
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"At this point, yeah, if we were far off, you should fire me"... I just love his confidence.
I love how well Eric explains what he's doing.
He's super likeable as well
These sorts of videos are fascinating. Italian suit styling is a little casual for my own tastes but it's always a pleasure to observe how a skilled artisan works his craft. You really get a profound insight into their design philosophy.
It will be interesting to see how this suit turns out... I"m excited for the second fitting, which we should be filming later this month!
@@kirbyallison Get a navy suit for war
Eric is fantastic. I was looking for a bespoke tailor in the neopolitan style when I saw the video done by Kirby. I made an appointment and could not be more happy with the process and suiting. The first of many more. Thank you Kirby for bringing talented craftsman to our attention.
In the UK of the 1960s Bespoke tailoring was at its height. During the period from 1960 - 1975 I had 12 or 14 suits made from various tailors. My favourite tailors was a small store called Gregory and Roche and always had at least two fittings before a suit or sports jacket was finalised. Other than that, youngsters at that time had their suits made at several National tailoring outlets, as indeed I also did. Always 12 ounce to hang nicely, always English wool/ worsted or West of England flannel. Jacket 2 button Italian with hand stitched lapels, back, half panels to deal with loose material phenomenon, flap, full shoulder padding, sleeves short enough to show 3/4 inch of shirt cuff. Trouser bottoms to fit the top of the shoe, button fly preferred . I recommend that youngsters experience a hand made suit at least once in their life. Nothing else like it.
funny that you mention Gregory and Roche , my grandfather worked at the tailors in the late 1940s in south bank
Maybe one of the most comprehensive videos on the bespoke process. Great work.
Have you seen the other videos in the series?
@@kirbyallison Yes, I have. They are all great. Keep up the great work. I have been a fan of your store since I was on AskAndy and Styleforum in college.
Kirby, you are on fire! Loving all of these bespoke clothing videos.
Thanks! It was fun to be able to film with Eric. I've known him for a while!
This tailor knows his stuff, I never would of known about ashes in the trouser cuffs, I learn something new in all your videos👍🏻 😊
Great to see the work and details that go into a great bespoke suit. Now I want one
Fantastic interview with people who have a passion in life.
Can’t wait to see the final suit!
It is really great that you both are explaining the whole process. One of my favorite videos
What a lovely video. Thank you, Kirby.
I really need to visit this tailor, he's really interactive with his costumers... amazing talent.
CUSTOMERS, not costumers
Hats off Kirby! I respect you much for this.
This is the type of videos that should reach a million views. So interesting!
Hi Kirby,
Could you do a video reviewing the house styles of different houses, ideally tailor houses from different cities, e.g., Huntsman, Anderson and Sheppard, Cifonelli, Caraceni, Liverano, Rubinaci, Isala, etc?
We actually filmed a similar video to this while we were in London where we visited the four preeminent heritage bespoke tailoring houses: Huntsman, Chittlebourgh & Morgan, Henry Poole, and Anderson & Shepherd. Video should be coming out sometime next month!
I like the effort that you put in. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Love these latest videos. Keep em coming
Thanks!
Such Elegance. Profoundly interesting. Beautiful.
Thanks! Make sure you subscribe !
I need to get myself a new suit. Great video.
Hey Kirby, GREAT videos! Love these recent uploads - feels like I'm right there with you in the fitting.
Quick question for either yourself or Eric: Should one wait to invest in a bespoke suit until after "growing"? I'm currently working out and noticed that some of my dress shirts don't fit my chest and shoulders anymore. Would be a shame to get a bespoke unit just to "outgrow" it. Always a struggle, since I'm not quite the same size as the year before.
Pros & Cons of getting more fit haha. I work my currently tailor like a horse these days.
Love these suits
As I'm watching more of your videos, I feel so stupid asking the questions I asked lol!
You and Eric made a great video here. Informative, well spoken and enjoyable to watch. Great presentation on the process for your new suit. Look forward to the final product.
Assuming it's not too intrusive, and the tailor agrees, of course, could you do any videos on the measuring process that's done for a bespoke suit, such as a first time buyer.
I’m currently getting a grey, single breasted Crispaire suit made right now! Just MTM though, need a few more bonuses before I get to a point where I can afford bespoke.
Best Kirby since the vacuum.
The one and only
Interesting to hear that fresco doesn't wrinkle easily. I'd thought it was prone to wrinkling, kind of like linen. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out, Kirby.
This cloth is a 13oz fresco and it's a super tight twist in the yarns and not prone for wrinkling at all. It does, however, take a nice hard crease. The cloth is fairly dense for being a high twist open weave, so much so it takes a little extra work shrinking the cloth during shaping.
This cloth is a 13oz fresco and it's a super tight twist in the yarns and not prone for wrinkling at all. It does, however, take a nice hard crease. The cloth is fairly dense for being a high twist open weave, so much so it takes a little extra work shrinking the cloth during shaping.
@@tailorshands7049, thanks for the great info!
Great amazing video
So interesting about a great craft.
A really nice video. I was suprised that you use the English terms, braces and trouser
12:32 very nice honest laugh my friend
What colour is the suit, is it navy? And what purpose will it be for? 😊
It's been established that this suit is needed for war.
@@barrywilson3525 This comment made me red in the face, but i suppose i was the only one ...
@@garrett.zimmer fight, fight, fight
War
Another great episode! I really hope you make some episodes of going to bespoke tailors in Asia.
If someone covers our airfare... I'd go crazy in Tokyo.
@@kirbyallison I'd also recommend Hong Kong and Bangkok. Great tailors in both of those cities. Many aren't on the level of Saville Row, but great value for money in bespoke shirts and suits.
Great video. Do you usually have a second pair of trousers made with your bespoke suits?
I think it's worth it tbh. Trousers tire out much faster than jackets, especially if you don't rotate them or let them rest. Friction + heat + moisture is a bad thing for wool
I don't, but it's generally a great idea. I blew my first pair of trousers out late last year and it was pretty devastating. Trying to see if Eric, actually, can find some cloth to match so they can be patched.
beautiful brown suit
I just purchased mtm suits what cuases bunching of fabric back of leg behind the knee?
Kirby, your videos are great, and that jacket has a beautiful drape.
As someone who is trying to save up for a bespoke item, I really appreciate these peaks into what the process is like. Though, one of the issues I ponder, and one you brought up in the video, is finding the right tailor (or shoe, or shirt maker), especially when commissioning one's first bespoke item (something difficult, even in CA). It all gets more confusing when so many "bespoke tailors" are really closer to MTM, and trunk shows may not match up with one's ability to pay in that moment (which could mean waiting another year before being able to commission an item - I know, first world problems).
You raise many great points. One thing to consider is that many tailors will allow you to stretch the payments across the fittings. And you are certainly correct that many "bespoke tailors" are really just a glorified MTM process. That said, people like Joe Hemrijani at MyTailor.com really put out an exceptional product for the money. Joe is closer to bespoke than it is to MTM, but with MTM pricing. That said, going "true bespoke" means that the cutter is the one actually taking the measurements, and for this you are definitely in the $4,000+ ballpark.
@@kirbyallison , that is some great advice - I really appreciate it. That $4000 ballpark can be intimidating, but much less so over 2 or more payments, and as you've noted many tailors do provide that option. It's funny you mention that since I have an appointment with Joe Hemrijani next week to get measured for a shirt.
Thanks for all the great videos Kirby...my shoe, suit and shirt collections have definitely grown and improved considerably since watching your videos.
Best,
Alex
Alexander Soto You should talk to Joe about his premium suit options. I am having him make two for me now that we’re filming. Fully canvases. Hand-drafted pattern. As long as you can do the fittings, it’s a pretty good final product for the money! Maybe to supplement your bespoke stuff. And make sure you speak to him about a Cooper Collar!! He makes the absolute most beautiful one I’ve ever worn.
wow, i'm really excited for you, kirby. looking forward to seeing how this suit turns out. i hope your suit will look better than the terrible experience i had last year with an unskilled tailor here in japan...
about how much does eric charge for his tailoring?
I defer to Eric on his pricing... pricing can change, so I hate to memorialize it forever here on RUclips. But it's in the $4,000-5,000 ballpark, which is typical. Sorry about your experience in Japan! Unfortunately, we've all had them!
@@kirbyallison cheers for the reply. looking forward to see how the suit turns out!
Hi Kirby, where can I get same tie your wearing here?
Eric appears to be a very nice person. Looks like he's growing a thin mustache. He'd certainly look great with it (not too many men look good with mustache), but he does. Great video overall! Thank you!
Eric is a great guy and a total pleasure to work with!
Drinking game: drink whenever Kirby says bespoke.
Or when Eric says “so….”
Kirbry I am starting to get suit made. and your video are very very helpful. I wish I had you in Florida with me to go suit shopping one day I plan to visit this gentleman suit maker.
That would be fun!
Im diggin the goatee Mr. Allison. Keep it goin.
hahaha.
David Jackson Must have been a 5 o’clock shadow.
I think the lack of a shoulder pad makes the connection point with the sleeve awkward. The sleeve material is slightly raised versus flush.
Excelent
What are the price range - at my tailor you said just below $1000. & then others around $1500
Price?
The sleeve pitch of Mr Jensen's blazer seems a bit off and the sleeves seem twisted. The back doesn't seem clean either. Is it simply because his hands are moving a lot?
Noticed the same thing
I think it's just the particular style of jacket..it's a bit more informal and in a vintage style...
@@preluded I think its more loose because its also his working cloth, see how he even has needles stichted into the repel ;-)
I think its just more comfortable to wear if he has to move while making the measurements
Perhaps this is another reason for the beauty of bespoke, even when making for oneself. He's a working tailor, his personal style is a bit retro in its points, the garment has some extra ease for working and yet the collar stays glued to his neck and nothing is gaping or throwing fullness where it should not go. Not to mention, fitting oneself is notoriously difficult. As a working bespoke tailor myself, I can assure you I'd rather have a garment thats comfortable to work in as opposed to a jacket that looks good when standing completely still.
I notice Mr Jensens adjusters for his braces (suspenders) are on his shoulders, I thought the correct place was around 1/2 to 3/4 of the torso ?
Well... you are correct. But perhaps that pair wasn't available in the proper size when he purchased them.
I know if you have to ask it’s too much to afford but what does something like this cost?
A ring jacket kind of tailor？
Founder! Of what exactly?
When Eric said, "Gentlemen that feel better in blues don't feel better in grays, and those who feel better in grays don't feel better in blues"(29:12-29:17), he has pretty much nailed what I was kind of thinking. Like Kirby, I tend to gravitate towards grays (especially suit-wise); but jacket-wise, I would go with blues or grays.
Honestly though, what does that even mean? How is this statement any different from saying "Some people prefer grays, some people prefer blues". Btw I also prefer grays :)
Maybe Eric phrased it that way and based it on his work with his clients (and his personal experience). If the person has a strong preference or inclination towards a particular colour - such as blues or grays in this case - they might feel "weird" or "unusual" wearing a different colour - especially if they don't like it very much; they don't wear it very often; or they are just not used to it. Of course, there are other reasons besides these.
But I get what you mean; it would have been simpler to just say, "Some people prefer grays, (and) some people prefer blues."
@@declanbartlette3074 Thanks, starting to see it I think ...
Anyway, enjoy this series ... and love the fabric choice
"Maybe a little more than a little..."
So, I have no issues flying to NYC several times and spending 5-7k for a suit, but perhaps I just don't have the money for this. I have a hard time thinking anything is worth 10k with travel and garment.
I'm looking to have just one made for special occasions...for work I wear over the shelf items that I hem and take in or make larger to fit nicely. Anyway, is a suit that costs 2 3 4 5 thousand US worth it, absolutely! For a life long suit that is. Same with a pair of bespoke shoes. So if you are a working stiff like me then keep the top shelf for special times, and over the counter stuff for work and play unless you have loads to spend...save your pennies for that special item. On my day off I drive my Porsche around a finger lake dressed in my best...you don't have to be rich to live richly!
Brandon bentley agreed. I own several MTM and custom suits. Ranging from 2k-5k with the most expensive thing being the tux I was married in and which a wear a couple of times a year for other events. I would really like to have something truly bespoke though, however living in Seattle there are not really options and so travel becomes a factor and since the process takes time and many trips I haven’t found a way. I like to think someday I’ll be able to take a month off or it will otherwise come together for me.
Ideally you find a tailor that either travels to your city regularly or works out of a city you travel to. One of the unquestionable benefits of larger bespoke tailoring houses is that they have established, regular travel schedules that hit all the major US cities.
Hello Kirby, I did not know that. Thank you for informing me. I certainly couldn’t ask you to spend your time researching which ones come to Seattle but do you have any idea of the ones I should look into myself i.e. the ones with the largest travel circle?
Soleftimright Check out gian decaro sartoria. He’s a full bespoke tailor. Sold him some hangers a long time back. Has a good reputation and is very old-school.
I like cuffs😄
Is it me or is Eric Andrew Ryan from Bioshock...
Huge pucker behind Eric’s jacket, underneath the collar . Is that normal for soft tailored jackets ?
Mark A Tailors, especially small, independent tailors, are notorious for not having great garments. For one, they’d prefer to make for clients than themselves. And for two, it’s impossible for a tailor to fit himself, especially the back of a jacket. I wouldn’t read too much into it. I don’t believe I ever saw my former tailor, Despos, in something that fit beautifully - but the clothes he made me are some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.
@@kirbyallison I also believe Eric is standing a bit more erect than normal (being in front of the camera). We tailors aren't know for our perfect postures ;D
It looks to me like the jacket the tailor is wearing doesn’t quite fit him too well.
just guessing, but he might need a looser fit due to the physical nature of his work.
Jason L good point
"nowaways, a lot of people in the States, they don't understand the Italian Sleevehead"
heck, rarely anyone in the States understands any sleeveheads!
even Kirby doesn't even know the "La Spalla Camicia"
I imagine Kirby does know but asks what such things are for the sake of the viewer.
Hahaha. Yes. You're so right. Ask a salesperson at a department store what a sleevehead is...
@@kirbyallison they would just say we don't have any
I would agree with you about every garment having to be fitted anew by the tailor -- save trousers. Trousers are much easier to fit -- generally speaking -- than jackets.
Nice guy, and I admire his story. Also, he reminds me of a young John C. Reilly. Don’t touch his drums!
Kiefer Sutherland
Kirby, how do you deal with always being the best dressed person? I currently live in the south NC and it’s hot as you know you’re from Texas, but I always get a lot of trash talk from friends on how I dress. Now even my wife has been calling me a princess cause I’ve been very obsessed with shining my shoes. How do you deal with the “hate” if any? Thanks.
If I may suggest. I think if people are just being mean-spirited, then you should ignore them. However, if people are frequently making comments, it could be that you are, without knowing it, being too showy with you attention to dress, or that you come off as having a chip on your shoulder. So, for example, if your shoe shining obsession causes you to neglect your family duties, or if you behave in a way that draw attention to yourself, that to me is something to complain about. Or if you blatantly ignore the occasion, like wearing a suit to a Super Bowl party, it's reasonable for people to be annoyed. It bothers me how sloppily people often dress even when they're in respectable company. Still, elegance and class are about paying attention to the situation and carrying yourself humbly.
A T I agree and thanks for the comments. I am not peacocking it’s just my usual dress clothes something like dad style. More tailored look. I don’t do it to illicit a response it’s more of how it makes me feel and by no means am I wearing suits to a Super Bowl party I am just making an effort to look and feel better through my clothing. I shine my shoes on Sunday cause it’s the only time I have for myself after shaving and getting ready for the week after. It not like I’m ignoring family it’s just that’s the small time I carve out for myself. I get the comments if everyone is in t shirts and I am wearing an Oxford and jeans. A choice that is just lounge wear.
When people ask why I'm "over dressed," I respond with "Really? I thought you were just under-dressed." haha. Not really. Who cares. I got over that a long time ago. Especially since we've picked up our production rate, I've been wearing suits almost every day... and I love it! You just have to get comfortable with it. After you wear a suit every day for a few weeks, it seems like you've done it forever. Take a look at our video on 10 Hallmarks of being Well-Dressed. I speak a little about this. The fact is that people give other's trouble for being "over-dressed" because it makes them self-conscious of being under-dressed. The fact is that a man in a suit will always look better and be treated better than a man that is not properly dressed!!
Daily Ritual To be clear, I was suggesting anything negative about you. Just saying that it’s good to be introspective and assess the reasons for dressing up. I know some friends who, though not flamboyant, can’t stop talking about their clothes. It annoys even me.
Kirby Allison that was very elegantly put!! Thank you Kirby you’re a true gentleman.
I work as a tailor and become a jakit, my work is done there mujhe batna pilis boss
I know it's my OCD but dude needs a tie pin. (9:00min) he fixed is tie.
Hi talring job
I never call a suit jacket a coat, sounds really odd to me, I think of a coat as a one built for the elements for example an overcoat, pea coat, or trench coat... is this regional or something?
john robinson Totally agree. It sounded very strange.
I hate how Kirby is always interrupting
Eric Jensen"s Jacket does not fit him well. Look at the shoulders and the back of the upper arm.
12:11 is it me or does this gentleman's suit not fitting right? It appears the shoulders are fitted poorly.
Do people really only get their suit cleaned once a year? It's not just perspiration that means it needs a clean! Cigar or food smells get into the fabric, they can start to smell musty, surely they need cleaning more often?
Guys... can anyone lend me a couple dozen grand to get myself a bespoke suit?
Giggles
I do not like the look of the shoulders on the coat Mr. Jensen is wearing. Yes I realize that comment is irrelevant to the video, but it is just something that I observed and wanter to comment on. My personal opinion is that the fit is less than flattering. It becomes relevant if this type of coat shoulder look is part of the Jensen brand
very interesting. The tailor needs a beard
Frankly, Eric's suit doesn't look that great to me. Look at the shoulder...
Hello sir I am apakistani I am stiching designer in bareeze man brand my experience is 33 years I like your company kindly grant me sponsor visa I am hounst and punctual man I pay this visa fees god bless you may you live long