I have a JD L110 lawn tractor, rear left tire seized. I've been working on this for two days trying not to damage axel, gearbox etc wouldn't move. Went to Harbor Frieght bought the Pittsburgh Bolt Type Wheel Puller Set Item # 62620, along with Fluid Film my seized wheel was off in 15 minutes with no other damage!! Thanks for the video!!! Now , I'm off to get new tires and anti-seize!!!
Here is an idea. Whenever anyone gets a new lawn tractor they should remove the rear wheels and paint the axles, keyways and hub with Never-seez so they never have this problem in the first place. These axles should be Never-seezed from the factory. Nothing should be so hard to remove. Plus a grease fitting to keep the water out would also help.
EVERY MTD or Murray I've ever had to remove a rear wheel from has given me a hard time. Yup, 2 cents of anti-seize from the factory and this video wouldn't be needed! (But were glad you posted it donyboy) Peace.
I have been working on small engines for about 10 years now and the best way I have found is a harmonic balancer puller like you had but using a impact on the rod until it's hard then smack the rod with a hammers usually gets them every time. Great video don keep it up
I used electrolysis. I took some plumbers putty and a one and a half inch pvc elbow. I secured the elbow with all thread and scrap metal and used the plumbers putty to seal around the elbow. I put the elbow over the axle added water and used my 12v battery charger and left it on there over night. The next morning a big glob of crusty rust was on my sacrificial metal.Then. I poured vinegar in there and let it set for a few days... I used a puller and while it was under tention added heat from a map gas torch.I sprayed some bp spray on it and then continued adding tention to the puller and it broke free...this rim was rusted on there solid and when I originally tried to get it off it bent my bolts and my rim a little....so all I can say is this worked.
Great job, you are persistent and single-minded. I did not have holes in the rim to use a puller, but I wish I did! I ended up making a sledge hammer slamming rig, using a 6 foot length of 1.5" steel pipe, a jack stand, and a full size 10 pound sledge hammer with a three foot handle. I stuck one end of the pipe in the hub hollow inside the stuck wheel. The other end of the pipe I supported with the jack stand at its lowest position. I had to slightly angle the pipe because the transaxle was in the way. Then I began slamming the end of the pipe with the sledge. After half an hour of slamming (with many wind breaks) the wheel had moved half an inch, whereas before with the baby sledge it had not moved at all. I figure it f I do half an inch a day it will be off in a week. It reminds me of Alan Ladd and Van Heflin chopping the big tree stump in the movie Shane, or similarly, Clint Eastwood and Michael Moriarty breaking up the boulder in Pale Rider. I don't care if I bust the transaxle, because I am replacing it, it went bad at 180 hours.
Wow Donyboy does it again. Some WD-40 heat from my propane torch and a few wacks with my rubber mallet and that stubborn rim was off in 2 minute's. That is the second time applying heat helped remove a rusted stuck on stubborn part. The first was my flywheel. They should sponsor you on tractorforum Dony, I went on their and barely anyone had any suggestions and the few that did were very arrogant about it. Dony is the go to guy for most lawn and garden troubles. Side note, don't have an expensive acetylene torch, no worries a small portable propane torch will do the job just fine as long as you get that heat from a flame to expand the metal... Excellent video Don!
My mower has the exact same problem as your mower did. I will try your method. I don't have one of those wheel pullers though so I might have to get one.
in some cases like this issue after heating that wheel collar you can hit the shaft with air in a can tuned upside down to quick chill the shaft to shrink it. works for stuck bearings too and needs less of the big hammer
I had the same problem on one of my old tractors (97). Never had one stick that bad before. I use penetrating oil let it sit & then reapplied then some heat and a BIG hammer. This is had worked in the past, but not this time. My next step was to split the transmission to replace a clip ring. Glad you made out better. Pete’s recommendation about not using gas by tank is a good warning though. Good video, keep safe. Joe
Ahhhh,the good old blue wrench. I tend to apply the heat to the bottom, I think it works a little better that way. A good idea is to clean the shaft before reinstalling, a bit of fine emery followed by crocus cloth. Not trying to remove metal just the dirt , rust and any galling on the shaft.
Tried air impact wrench, tried propane on hub but probably didn’t get hot enough, then put gear puller on wheel. All of that moved wheel maybe 1/8” on axle. Have new rim and tire for replacement. Considering a sawzall to cut off deflated tire, then a cutting wheel on a side grinder to cut through rim and hub. Have you ever had to resort to cutting the wheel and rim off?
You can use a 3 claw puller and break down the outer side of the tire and pop the claw tips over into the steel wheels rim and use the pointed tip on the puller to contact the axle center but first spray LOTS of penetrating oil down the axle all you can to get in there and help work things loose !
Had to do that with my sisters snowblower to install tubes. The rim didn't have holes so I drilled my own to use a puller after heating the hub up with a torch.
Wow, that was very helpful. My exact problem. Don't have a torch but a small blow torch and now going to dealer to find wheel puller. Tractor is stuck on a hill in the yard and unable to get to my workshop, so have some challenges...
Tried everything on my John Deere 190C. Ended up removing the transaxle (tuff torque hydrostatic), opening it up, and removing the axles with wheels still attached. I took them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. When I picked them up the guy said he had to get the center of the wheels cherry red before their press could make them budge. Before I put the transaxle back together I sanded the rust off the axles and polished them with 320. Did the same for inside of wheels using a wire wheel on a drill and then sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. Before putting wheels on I covered the axles and insides of wheels with wheel bearing grease. I think as long as I remove the wheels at least once a year I'll never have this problem again. Of course now that the wheels actually come off I take them off to remove the deck and to do other maintenance. I bought the mower used and the wheels were already stuck then. So much easier to work on this Chinese made imitation John Deere piece of crap now 😄.
Can wrap the rear seal area with a terry cloth towel soaked in ice water. I use this method when cutting and shortening axle tubes for race cars/muscle cars.
hey donyboy... I bought a new rim/tire for my riding Ariens mower. it came with the 5/8 bore and the 3/4 adapters. I need to change the 5/8 bore to the 3/4 bore on the new rim so I can slide the rim in the front control arm of the mower. is there a video showing how I can remove the 5/8 bore adapter and replace it with the 3/4 bore adapter . thanks for your help
After I got my tire off using the same system (heat) I then wire brushed the axel and key. Then I put anti-seize compound (gray mustard) on the axel and re-installed it. Next time it won't be so hard to remove.
Clean the shaft with fine sandpaper or a wire brush, then put the anti seize on the shaft. Clean the inside of the wheel as well and put aiti seize on it.
When i took of the right rear wheel on our Husqvarna LT151 I could just pull it straight off, not a speck of rust on the axle. it's stored in our outhouse about 98% of the time it's not in use, I guess that not having it parked outside exposed to the elements has something to do with the lack of rust on the axle. Still, I would like to apply som anti-seize when reinstalling the wheel. I've got som aluminium paste/anti-seize and some copper paste/anti-seize can I use one of those or do I need something different?
@@jaymzmeh4595 No I never have, I heated it and soaked it with Kroil, made my own puller out of 1/2 in steel with bolts that go thru the rim, tightened it down big time. Even tried using my air hammer, while the pullers on there, never budged.
the puller tool worked a good trick there Donny mate who,d have thought of a better way to remove a seized wheel on a lawn tractor drive axle shaft than that and of course penetration oil or a lube and oxy flame does also help aid with removal too
I have a Craftsman lawn tractor, but have not had that problem, and hope that I don't have that problem either. I have a puller and know how to use it for removal of many parts on my lawn tractor, and Zero Turn mowers.
Nicely done :-D Pullers are just invaluable tools :-), i have an old two arm sprocket puller, its been so so good at removing bearings, worth every penny i payed 30 years ago :-)) i imagine you would dress the shaft with sandpaper and a smear with grease/copper slip to stop future problems.
My brother was recently given an old Simplicity lawn tractor with a snow blower attachment. We tried for 3 hrs to remove both rims with no luck. They have an E clip and a key in the axle and wheel. So I just pulled the tires off with the wheels still on. 🇺🇲
This was the most helpful video I saw to assist me. I used a spacer after the wheel budged about a quarter of an inch since the taper would not go any further into the collar on the rim. It is not an easy task in my opinion.
Hi, And thanks for the great video, something that is sure to happen if at least Annual maintenance is missed, and some thing to which I had to used to remove the steering pins on an old van, at least there is nothing to be damaged doing that on my old van. Take care and just to say I do always view your videos, but sometimes forget to comment due to a memory lapse, sorry. Take care mrbluenun
Applying the torch to the axle on the inside melted the plastic sleeve on the axle. There are other rubber parts along the axle. Used a wheel puller and put so much pressure on it that I damaged the axle threads. My local small engine repair guy says that he fits inner tubes into the tires without removing the wheel. As for damage to threads I guess tap and die can fit it but he says that wheel is so rust welded that there is no fear of it falling off.
Very good,I have tried everything, but I use map gas I don't think it gets it hot enough. The type of puller you used is the way too go I'm going to purchase one for this job. I tried other types and they don't work. Good video.
Change 2 rotted tires. Stopped trying and remove rim. Removed the tire off the rim on Murry riding mower. Used wood clamp to squeeze the old tire and WD40 and rubber hammer popped the tire off the rim. used a rope and stick to put the new tire beads to seat on the rim Maybe Rim was damaged drill 3 holes and use a wheel puller.
Heat and lots of it does the trick every time for me. That and a 20 ton press. I usually take the transaxle apart and pull the whole axles haft when doing this.
HI Dony~replaced my clutch cable and new brake pucks on my used ARIENS 42 GEAR riding mower..BUT WHY DOES IT JERK REALLY HARD WHEN I GO TO SHIFT?? It jerks in all gears..**PLEASE ADVISE..love ur videos thank u
I need to do the same with a seized snowblower wheel on a used Troy Bilt that I bought. Heating with MAPP/Pro and spraying Penetrating Oil wasn't enough. I don't have access to acetylene, could you show me what exact equipment I need for this puller you used? I think I'd have to drill some holes in my rims.
Tried using one of those small brazing torches. Did not do a thing. Bent the rim and bent a quarter inch steel puller that I made. Hit it with a sledge hammer until I thought the transmission would break. Finally took a grinder and kept grinding until I cut it down to the axle and even then it was hard to come off. Finally got it off. You need to grease the axle good before putting the wheels on or over time they will seize up.Probably a good idea to take them off at the end of each season and grease them.
Get or borrow slide hammer. Even if no where 2 attach , very easy 2 put hole and put bolt from back that fits slide hammer. Don't have torch so would probably back into brush fire and hope for best.
i think i may have the same problem on my self propelled push mower .. its a honda hrb216... i take off the nut holding the wheel in place but the n the wheel feels like its glued on .. it will not slide off freely like its supposed to.... am i dumb or am i missing something?!
Tips: Get a Torch and heat around it... DO NOT heat the Axle. Once it's HOT, use Cold Water + Garden Hose or Bucket and splash it really quick. Now try removing it.... If that doesn't work, do it again, sometimes 2-3X will do it!!! By using Hot / Cold method, you are expanding / contracting the " rust "! *NOTE:* *Remove ALL the Air Out of your Tire when doing this method!*
Dan, Thanks for the nice video. This was useful. The right rear wheel in my Sears Lawn tractor has seized up. I need to take it out to put in new brake pads. Where can I buy the puller you used in the video? That seems to be better than what I have ordered from Home Depot.
This was a great video tip. I had a pair of wheels stuck on lawn tractor rear drive shaft axels. I ended up taking the assembly off of the machine and working to get the wheels off. I got them off using Liquid Wrench penetrating oil, rubber mallet and lots of cursing and sweating! Next time I'll get a wheel puller!
+A LeBlanc I worked @ the Snapper mower mfg plant for over 30 years, on our products designed like this with keyway & clip it WAS required to use the anti seize, most of the time it was used BUT if the person installing the wheels happened to have easier wheels that would slide on they would bypass the A-S, but in MOST cases the fit was so tight that if the A-S was put on the axle it would have to be completely coated to do any good. The TIGHT design was to NOT allow a sloppy fit so the wheel would flop loosely on the axle thus causing INTERNAL damage to the transmission. From memory there was only a .002 to .003 thousands of a inch clearance between the axle and I.D. of the hub in wheel.
I have a snapper yard cruiser, z turn, with the keyway type wheel that is completely rusted on. Haven't tried heating it yet, but other problem is there's no room to hit the wheel from behind or apply much force. Pain in the ass
Many are required to by their engineering dept ( Snapper required it on many if not all ), but as I have seen LAZY or UNTRAINED, or TEMP fill in's sometimes just don't do it, or don't put enough on.
I don't have an oxy acetylene torch, but the last stuck wheel I did I had to use a block of wood and a four pound sledge, rotating the wheel every few blows. It took about ten minutes but it finally gave way.
donyboy73 I gonna buy a lawnmower with a tecumseh engine but it has a problem when it starts the pull rope breaks whats the problem? (sorry bad english)
what did you use on the back of the wheel to secure the bolt for the pully bolts? i see up front you have metal spacers but how did you attach the long silver bolts?
Don, good video, I had one stuck so bad that after 8 hours of work I gave up and sold the mower, please do another video on a stuck blade adaptor, they can also be a bear to get off, Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us
@@donyboy73 i replaced the keyway but why does it JERK hard when i shift happens in ALL GEARS???? I 'put the new drive belt on yet i replaced the Brake PUCKS..could they be too tight and cause the jerking when SHIFtiNG? it moves and all and brake stops it.
Ugh. My snowblower wheel is stuck that bad. Dont have an oxy torch. Butane didnt work. Id buy the wheel puller but theres no holes in the rim to use it. What a nightmare
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a JD L110 lawn tractor, rear left tire seized. I've been working on this for two days trying not to damage axel, gearbox etc wouldn't move. Went to Harbor Frieght bought the Pittsburgh Bolt Type Wheel Puller Set Item # 62620, along with Fluid Film my seized wheel was off in 15 minutes with no other damage!! Thanks for the video!!! Now , I'm off to get new tires and anti-seize!!!
Worked decent for me as well. Though the one side was more difficult than the other.
Here is an idea. Whenever anyone gets a new lawn tractor they should
remove the rear wheels and paint the axles, keyways and hub with
Never-seez so they never have this problem in the first place. These axles should be Never-seezed from the factory. Nothing should be so hard to remove. Plus a grease fitting to keep the water out would also help.
Now you tell me!!!!?!
MOWER 3 MONTHS OLD AND COULDN'T GET ONE WHEEL OFF. MY VERY SMALL CAN OF NEVER SEIZE WAS 42.00 3 YEARS AGO. GREAT IDEA
You are the best RUclips mechanic I know. I’ve been watching your videos since I was like 12/13 years old.
EVERY MTD or Murray I've ever had to remove a rear wheel from has given me a hard time. Yup, 2 cents of anti-seize from the factory and this video wouldn't be needed! (But were glad you posted it donyboy) Peace.
Yes mtd back wheels never come off easy so have your torch ready
I’m having trouble with my Murray wheel lol
Having trouble bit my mud rn
Keeping a water soaked rag on the shaft just before the gearbox might help protect that seal. As always, great vid!
tim jones The wet rag trick can help when soldering copper pipes connected to something that could melt, so it should protect the seal.
2 AM When I replace 3-way valves in the fan coil units in the building I work at, I cover the valve with a wet rag to keep it cool while soldering it.
Get it hot and hit it with a hose the metal shrinks and breaks apart the rust instantly. Nice job, that thing was on there.
Wow! That sucker was really stuck on there. Good job!
***** have a good weekend! nice riding weather
Clear, well spoken. Very helpful.
Thanks for the tips and tricks
as a side nore, be carefull heating on tires that still hold air, the heat causes the pressure to go sky high, and they can explode,
mustie1 is right. There should be a whole video on rim heating safety. Super dangerous.
Yep, I totally agree.
Nothing left out, great video for wheel removal.
I have been working on small engines for about 10 years now and the best way I have found is a harmonic balancer puller like you had but using a impact on the rod until it's hard then smack the rod with a hammers usually gets them every time. Great video don keep it up
Great job 👍🏻
the smack wont work on this rusty mess rustll the way
That worked exactly like that for me just today
i will try this
I used electrolysis. I took some plumbers putty and a one and a half inch pvc elbow. I secured the elbow with all thread and scrap metal and used the plumbers putty to seal around the elbow. I put the elbow over the axle added water and used my 12v battery charger and left it on there over night. The next morning a big glob of crusty rust was on my sacrificial metal.Then. I poured vinegar in there and let it set for a few days... I used a puller and while it was under tention added heat from a map gas torch.I sprayed some bp spray on it and then continued adding tention to the puller and it broke free...this rim was rusted on there solid and when I originally tried to get it off it bent my bolts and my rim a little....so all I can say is this worked.
Great job, you are persistent and single-minded. I did not have holes in the rim to use a puller, but I wish I did! I ended up making a sledge hammer slamming rig, using a 6 foot length of 1.5" steel pipe, a jack stand, and a full size 10 pound sledge hammer with a three foot handle. I stuck one end of the pipe in the hub hollow inside the stuck wheel. The other end of the pipe I supported with the jack stand at its lowest position. I had to slightly angle the pipe because the transaxle was in the way. Then I began slamming the end of the pipe with the sledge. After half an hour of slamming (with many wind breaks) the wheel had moved half an inch, whereas before with the baby sledge it had not moved at all. I figure it f I do half an inch a day it will be off in a week. It reminds me of Alan Ladd and Van Heflin chopping the big tree stump in the movie Shane, or similarly, Clint Eastwood and Michael Moriarty breaking up the boulder in Pale Rider. I don't care if I bust the transaxle, because I am replacing it, it went bad at 180 hours.
I think that you could just drill 2 holes and then use the puller.
Wow Donyboy does it again. Some WD-40 heat from my propane torch and a few wacks with my rubber mallet and that stubborn rim was off in 2 minute's. That is the second time applying heat helped remove a rusted stuck on stubborn part. The first was my flywheel. They should sponsor you on tractorforum Dony, I went on their and barely anyone had any suggestions and the few that did were very arrogant about it. Dony is the go to guy for most lawn and garden troubles.
Side note, don't have an expensive acetylene torch, no worries a small portable propane torch will do the job just fine as long as you get that heat from a flame to expand the metal... Excellent video Don!
thanks
My mower has the exact same problem as your mower did. I will try your method. I don't have one of those wheel pullers though so I might have to get one.
You also inspired me to take a mechanic class.
Thank so
lol pop lpp
in some cases like this issue after heating that wheel collar you can hit the shaft with air in a can tuned upside down to quick chill the shaft to shrink it. works for stuck bearings too and needs less of the big hammer
I had the same problem on one of my old tractors (97). Never had one stick that bad before. I use penetrating oil let it sit & then reapplied then some heat and a BIG hammer. This is had worked in the past, but not this time. My next step was to split the transmission to replace a clip ring. Glad you made out better. Pete’s recommendation about not using gas by tank is a good warning though.
Good video, keep safe. Joe
you go donyboy , that's how you get er dun , GREAT VIDEO !
Ahhhh,the good old blue wrench. I tend to apply the heat to the bottom, I think it works a little better that way. A good idea is to clean the shaft before reinstalling, a bit of fine emery followed by crocus cloth. Not trying to remove metal just the dirt , rust and any galling on the shaft.
it will move when u make it liquid, right!
Tried air impact wrench, tried propane on hub but probably didn’t get hot enough, then put gear puller on wheel. All of that moved wheel maybe 1/8” on axle. Have new rim and tire for replacement. Considering a sawzall to cut off deflated tire, then a cutting wheel on a side grinder to cut through rim and hub. Have you ever had to resort to cutting the wheel and rim off?
You can use a 3 claw puller and break down the outer side of the tire and pop the claw tips over into the steel wheels rim and use the pointed tip on the puller to contact the axle center but first spray LOTS of penetrating oil down the axle all you can to get in there and help work things loose !
Had to do that with my sisters snowblower to install tubes. The rim didn't have holes so I drilled my own to use a puller after heating the hub up with a torch.
Wow, that was very helpful. My exact problem. Don't have a torch but a small blow torch and now going to dealer to find wheel puller. Tractor is stuck on a hill in the yard and unable to get to my workshop, so have some challenges...
I have the same issue. Paid $20 for a wheel puller. Bent the wheel puller and 2 bolts. Still cannot get the rim off.
I'm surprised that you didn't start cussing!!! Hahaha 😂😂😂
thank you. just what I needed. bless you
Good Video I Have Had Lots Of Seized Wheels In The 15 years I have been in Business
Tried everything on my John Deere 190C. Ended up removing the transaxle (tuff torque hydrostatic), opening it up, and removing the axles with wheels still attached. I took them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. When I picked them up the guy said he had to get the center of the wheels cherry red before their press could make them budge.
Before I put the transaxle back together I sanded the rust off the axles and polished them with 320. Did the same for inside of wheels using a wire wheel on a drill and then sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. Before putting wheels on I covered the axles and insides of wheels with wheel bearing grease. I think as long as I remove the wheels at least once a year I'll never have this problem again. Of course now that the wheels actually come off I take them off to remove the deck and to do other maintenance. I bought the mower used and the wheels were already stuck then. So much easier to work on this Chinese made imitation John Deere piece of crap now 😄.
Can wrap the rear seal area with a terry cloth towel soaked in ice water.
I use this method when cutting and shortening axle tubes for race cars/muscle cars.
thanks for the tip!
Nice job Donnie
Got to love Donnie! Have a fire extinguisher handy just in case something goes wrong LOL good video long time no see Dony boy 😀
hey donyboy... I bought a new rim/tire for my riding Ariens mower. it came with the 5/8 bore and the 3/4 adapters. I need to change the 5/8 bore to the 3/4 bore on the new rim so I can slide the rim in the front control arm of the mower. is there a video showing how I can remove the 5/8 bore adapter and replace it with the 3/4 bore adapter . thanks for your help
My signature 2000 rears are just like this ! Not looking forwards to all this work but...has to get done.
After I got my tire off using the same system (heat) I then wire brushed the axel and key. Then I put anti-seize compound (gray mustard) on the axel and re-installed it. Next time it won't be so hard to remove.
Clean the shaft with fine sandpaper or a wire brush, then put the anti seize on the shaft. Clean the inside of the wheel as well and put aiti seize on it.
Great video Don!
When i took of the right rear wheel on our Husqvarna LT151 I could just pull it straight off, not a speck of rust on the axle. it's stored in our outhouse about 98% of the time it's not in use, I guess that not having it parked outside exposed to the elements has something to do with the lack of rust on the axle. Still, I would like to apply som anti-seize when reinstalling the wheel. I've got som aluminium paste/anti-seize and some copper paste/anti-seize can I use one of those or do I need something different?
Would a propane torch well also?
I hope it does, did it work for you? I'm having the same problem, only have a propane torch!
+Grant W. Whitwam Yeah it takes a little longer though.
Thanks.
@@grantw.whitwam9948 were you ever able to get it off with a propane torch? That's all I have as well?
@@jaymzmeh4595 No I never have, I heated it and soaked it with Kroil, made my own puller out of 1/2 in steel with bolts that go thru the rim, tightened it down big time. Even tried using my air hammer, while the pullers on there, never budged.
So all I need to use is my accedilen torch ? I think I have three of them in my normal household garage
What a PITA but thanks for the video. Pretty close to what I've been trying with a gear puller but no luck so far. I guess I need more heat.
the puller tool worked a good trick there Donny mate who,d have thought of a better way to remove a seized wheel on a lawn tractor drive axle shaft than that and of course penetration oil or a lube and oxy flame does also help aid with removal too
I have a Craftsman lawn tractor, but have not had that problem, and hope that I don't have that problem either. I have a puller and know how to use it for removal of many parts on my lawn tractor, and Zero Turn mowers.
This helped a lot thanks so much
Great video Don, just trying to help a fella out, use the box end of the wrench as much as you can. Might save a knuckle or two!
Thank so much for your nice details video
Nicely done :-D
Pullers are just invaluable tools :-), i have an old two arm sprocket puller, its been so so good at removing bearings, worth every penny i payed 30 years ago :-))
i imagine you would dress the shaft with sandpaper and a smear with grease/copper slip to stop future problems.
zx8401ztv yes
My brother was recently given an old Simplicity lawn tractor with a snow blower attachment. We tried for 3 hrs to remove both rims with no luck. They have an E clip and a key in the axle and wheel. So I just pulled the tires off with the wheels still on. 🇺🇲
This was the most helpful video I saw to assist me. I used a spacer after the wheel budged about a quarter of an inch since the taper would not go any further into the collar on the rim. It is not an easy task in my opinion.
Dony, I think you need to make a trip to Michigan so we can talk small engines .
I have 4 stuck wheels and a gear puller like yours. However, I do not have torches available.
Hmmm I may remove my rear wheels now and put anti seize on it while I moved is still kinda new. Thanks for the video.
Flammable 281 yes do it while they are still not seized!
Great video they exact same idea I have for mine but wasnt sure if it would work. Looks like I'll be good to go.
Hi,
And thanks for the great video, something that is sure to happen if at least Annual maintenance is missed, and some thing to which I had to used to remove the steering pins on an old van, at least there is nothing to be damaged doing that on my old van.
Take care and just to say I do always view your videos, but sometimes forget to comment due to a memory lapse, sorry.
Take care
mrbluenun
Thank you.
Applying the torch to the axle on the inside melted the plastic sleeve on the axle. There are other rubber parts along the axle. Used a wheel puller and put so much pressure on it that I damaged the axle threads. My local small engine repair guy says that he fits inner tubes into the tires without removing the wheel. As for damage to threads I guess tap and die can fit it but he says that wheel is so rust welded that there is no fear of it falling off.
i tried with the puller and one of the bolt snapped. its really stuck on there.
Very good,I have tried everything, but I use map gas I don't think it gets it hot enough. The type of puller you used is the way too go I'm going to purchase one for this job. I tried other types and they don't work. Good video.
Change 2 rotted tires. Stopped trying and remove rim. Removed the tire off the rim on Murry riding mower. Used wood clamp to squeeze the old tire and WD40 and rubber hammer popped the tire off the rim. used a rope and stick to put the new tire beads to seat on the rim
Maybe
Rim was damaged drill 3 holes and use a wheel puller.
How do you remove a front tire spindle? My cub cadet LT1042 wheel doesn't swivel when I turn the steering wheel. The spindle is frozen up. Thanks
Heat and lots of it does the trick every time for me. That and a 20 ton press. I usually take the transaxle apart and pull the whole axles haft when doing this.
HI Dony~replaced my clutch cable and new brake pucks on my used ARIENS 42 GEAR riding mower..BUT WHY DOES IT JERK REALLY HARD WHEN I GO TO SHIFT?? It jerks in all gears..**PLEASE ADVISE..love ur videos thank u
I need to do the same with a seized snowblower wheel on a used Troy Bilt that I bought. Heating with MAPP/Pro and spraying Penetrating Oil wasn't enough. I don't have access to acetylene, could you show me what exact equipment I need for this puller you used? I think I'd have to drill some holes in my rims.
Tried using one of those small brazing torches. Did not do a thing. Bent the rim and bent a quarter inch steel puller that I made. Hit it with a sledge hammer until I thought the transmission would break. Finally took a grinder and kept grinding until I cut it down to the axle and even then it was hard to come off. Finally got it off. You need to grease the axle good before putting the wheels on or over time they will seize up.Probably a good idea to take them off at the end of each season and grease them.
thanks mate i will give your advice a try regards mick australia
Get or borrow slide hammer. Even if no where 2 attach , very easy 2 put hole and put bolt from back that fits slide hammer. Don't have torch so would probably back into brush fire and hope for best.
Hi donyboy73,Is there a way to adjust the brakes on a riding mower John Deere lt133 if so how thanks
i have had great luck with the 50/50 acetone,transmission fluid mix.
i think i may have the same problem on my self propelled push mower .. its a honda hrb216... i take off the nut holding the wheel in place but the n the wheel feels like its glued on .. it will not slide off freely like its supposed to.... am i dumb or am i missing something?!
Tips: Get a Torch and heat around it... DO NOT heat the Axle. Once it's HOT, use Cold Water + Garden Hose or Bucket and splash it really quick. Now try removing it.... If that doesn't work, do it again, sometimes 2-3X will do it!!! By using Hot / Cold method, you are expanding / contracting the " rust "! *NOTE:* *Remove ALL the Air Out of your Tire when doing this method!*
Dan, Thanks for the nice video. This was useful. The right rear wheel in my Sears Lawn tractor has seized up. I need to take it out to put in new brake pads.
Where can I buy the puller you used in the video? That seems to be better than what I have ordered from Home Depot.
Any auto zone or car parts place has those. Not too expensive either
Harbor Freight. 17.99
Whewwww rough . I’m sure you’re going to clean the shaft with Emory cloth , right and then anti-seize
Could a propane torch work instead?
Its worth a try but doesn't get nearly as hot.
My John Deere STX38 had stuck rims too (after 20 years) so I tipped it on its side and used tire irons to remove all of them---not too bad.
Thanks, Congratulations on your French speaking Channel
Just wondering if you feel that mower was being left outside in the rain/snow caused that problem?
I use my impact gun on the axle shaft while putting outward pressure on the wheel
This was a great video tip. I had a pair of wheels stuck on lawn tractor rear drive shaft axels. I ended up taking the assembly off of the machine and working to get the wheels off. I got them off using Liquid Wrench penetrating oil, rubber mallet and lots of cursing and sweating! Next time I'll get a wheel puller!
My rims don't have holes for the puller
Drill two holes in rim opposite each other, add washers and nuts to puller threaded bolts on back side of rim and cuss a lot.
Can I use a propane torch I don't have a settling torch
Can I use propane torch for this purpose.
thanks for a good video
Do you know if Lawn Chief riding mowers are an good?
Wow... What a job! What would you have done if you couldn't get the wheel off with the puller? (cut and replace the drive shaft/wheel???)
i have a brgs and strt 17 hors pr that dys after 2 or3 min will stay runing if you play with the throlat eny suggeshons love the vids
Always remove valve stem to prevent tire explosion!
I have a seized 1973 rototiller hub - same idea on that?
Impact gun on the wheel puller works well too.
lube puller is better
I wonder why the manufacturer doesn't use anti-seize when they build the mower?
A LeBlanc It saves them 2 cents. LOL
+A LeBlanc I worked @ the Snapper mower mfg plant for over 30 years, on our products designed like this with keyway & clip it WAS required to use the anti seize, most of the time it was used BUT if the person installing the wheels happened to have easier wheels that would slide on they would bypass the A-S, but in MOST cases the fit was so tight that if the A-S was put on the axle it would have to be completely coated to do any good. The TIGHT design was to NOT allow a sloppy fit so the wheel would flop loosely on the axle thus causing INTERNAL damage to the transmission. From memory there was only a .002 to .003 thousands of a inch clearance between the axle and I.D. of the hub in wheel.
+Numa Newbern Makes sense. Thanks.
I have a snapper yard cruiser, z turn, with the keyway type wheel that is completely rusted on. Haven't tried heating it yet, but other problem is there's no room to hit the wheel from behind or apply much force. Pain in the ass
Many are required to by their engineering dept ( Snapper required it on many if not all ), but as I have seen LAZY or UNTRAINED, or TEMP fill in's sometimes just don't do it, or don't put enough on.
I don't have an oxy acetylene torch, but the last stuck wheel I did I had to use a block of wood and a four pound sledge, rotating the wheel every few blows. It took about ten minutes but it finally gave way.
You can easily get a small propane torch. Just saying.
donyboy73 I gonna buy a lawnmower with a tecumseh engine but it has a problem when it starts the pull rope breaks whats the problem? (sorry bad english)
Could you have used a hammer drill to spin the puller bolt or it should only be done by hand ?
Just be sure if the tire is not flat to remove valve core as heat can build air pressure and blow up a tire .
wtbm123 exactly
Boom
Another great video
what did you use on the back of the wheel to secure the bolt for the pully bolts? i see up front you have metal spacers but how did you attach the long silver bolts?
See about 5:20. He just put some nuts non the ends to stop them popping out.
Does this work with snowblowers?
Would propane work?
I've tired all these step and still wont come off
Would a regular propane torch work?
no,not hot enough
Don, good video, I had one stuck so bad that after 8 hours of work I gave up and sold the mower, please do another video on a stuck blade adaptor, they can also be a bear to get off, Thanks for sharing all your knowledge with us
+Jeff Graha you're welcome, here is a blade adapter video ruclips.net/video/7caxtmxZ2oc/видео.html
The "engineers" from MTD should be made to do house calls!
I agree but no manufacturer uses antizee and they could careless about mechanics or owners of there junk
what happens if one rear tire is missing a square keyway?
If a key is missing the wheels won't drive.
@@donyboy73 i replaced the keyway but why does it JERK hard when i shift happens in ALL GEARS???? I 'put the new drive belt on yet i replaced the Brake PUCKS..could they be too tight and cause the jerking when SHIFtiNG? it moves and all and brake stops it.
Ugh. My snowblower wheel is stuck that bad. Dont have an oxy torch. Butane didnt work. Id buy the wheel puller but theres no holes in the rim to use it. What a nightmare