Your comment at the end about learning things, whether or not you're actually going to be putting them into practice, well, couldn't agree more. I know absolutely nothing about CNC or machine work. I will probably never touch one. I do stock removal using belts and files. But I still watch videos pertaining to forging, machining, stock removal and everything in between. I have found some extremely helpful things from each and every method and have incorporated them into how I do things. That has helped me to improve tremendously. More knowledge is always a good thing! By the way, thank you very much for sharing all of yours.
DanGoodShot pewpew Exactly. I couldn't even afford one of those beasts, and wouldnt know what i was doing with it, but anything I can take away from any lesson is a win.
Having broken my share of small taps, I about had a heart attack when you started driving that 8-32 tap with a drill. Then you explained the using clutch mechanism and it made sense.
A lot of people don't understand the fragile size of 8/32 thread is . it is soooooo easy to break in the hole. And , and don't realize how hard most of the time to remove a broken tap that is broken below the surface.
Rpm is your friend when milling aluminum. Not sure how much you have on your tormach but a small endmill like 3/8 or smaller you can run at 10k+ rpm and crank up your feed specially on your 3D toolpaths. More rpm gives you better chip evacuation and can make your life much easier. However you don't have flood coolant so be mindful of weld-on. Also you can save some cycle time by using the high speed peck (or chip break) option instead of the full retract peck. Any drills under half an inch in aluminum will be fine as long as you aren't going past the top of the flutes. Great video as always Walter.
i wonder if it's possible to, at least partially, forge separate pieces of different types of steel and merge them into a single blade, probably finishing the process after. like, the base is forged into A6 tool steel with traces of L6 bainite in the spine for flexibility, traces of D2 tool steel into the edge for edge-keeping, place a thick middle layer of hardox 550 steel for wear resistance and a thin outer layer of inconel for oxidation and corrosion resistance, and heirloom-level reusability, and preferably a paper-thin outermost layer of 13% manganese mangalloy billeted to give the illusion of damascus steel.
Your comment at the end about learning things, whether or not you're actually going to be putting them into practice, well, couldn't agree more. I know absolutely nothing about CNC or machine work. I will probably never touch one. I do stock removal using belts and files. But I still watch videos pertaining to forging, machining, stock removal and everything in between. I have found some extremely helpful things from each and every method and have incorporated them into how I do things. That has helped me to improve tremendously. More knowledge is always a good thing! By the way, thank you very much for sharing all of yours.
DanGoodShot pewpew Exactly. I couldn't even afford one of those beasts, and wouldnt know what i was doing with it, but anything I can take away from any lesson is a win.
Doug Bish thats my take on It!
What a pleasure to listen to such an intelligent person
Having broken my share of small taps, I about had a heart attack when you started driving that 8-32 tap with a drill. Then you explained the using clutch mechanism and it made sense.
A lot of people don't understand the fragile size of 8/32 thread is . it is soooooo easy to break in the hole. And , and don't realize how hard most of the time to remove a broken tap that is broken below the surface.
And the tap always breaks ether in the last one or the hardest one to remove it from.
Rpm is your friend when milling aluminum. Not sure how much you have on your tormach but a small endmill like 3/8 or smaller you can run at 10k+ rpm and crank up your feed specially on your 3D toolpaths. More rpm gives you better chip evacuation and can make your life much easier. However you don't have flood coolant so be mindful of weld-on. Also you can save some cycle time by using the high speed peck (or chip break) option instead of the full retract peck. Any drills under half an inch in aluminum will be fine as long as you aren't going past the top of the flutes. Great video as always Walter.
Good stuff +Walter Sorrells !
i wonder if it's possible to, at least partially, forge separate pieces of different types of steel and merge them into a single blade, probably finishing the process after. like, the base is forged into A6 tool steel with traces of L6 bainite in the spine for flexibility, traces of D2 tool steel into the edge for edge-keeping, place a thick middle layer of hardox 550 steel for wear resistance and a thin outer layer of inconel for oxidation and corrosion resistance, and heirloom-level reusability, and preferably a paper-thin outermost layer of 13% manganese mangalloy billeted to give the illusion of damascus steel.
Hey Walter why don't you make a video about what ancient Japanese swordwsmiths did with blades that cracked during the quench
look in good your gettin down pretty quick!
Love your videos keep it up!
Very cool!
It is the same in woodworking. Fixtures are jigs are great
I dont have a clue what you were talking about, but it was interesting
Buen video dude. Saludos de Argentina