My car does not have a MAF sensor. I actually applied the CRC cleaner into the turbo inlet pipe. My daughter handled the throttle. After it was heat soaked and I took it out on the "drive it like I stole it" drive, the engine idled like a turbine and my throttle response was much improved. I changed the oil a few days later. My engine runs like new.
I did this on my N55 but since i was also upgrading the charge pipe at the same time i just completely removed the charge pipe and sprayed directly into the throttle body. My engine’s power and throttle response has completely been restored and getting 2mpg more! Sure i could have removed the whole intake manifold and went further but the people that are saying that have no idea how much more time consuming that is compared to just spraying it through the intake manifold. This will give you more than half of the results that walnut blasting will give you for a TENTH of the price.
You should remove the intake manifold and take photos of the valves. Proceed with your method. Then after retake photos of the valves for a solid comparison and to see how effective the method is vs walnut blasting.
Exactly, these cars get extreme carbon build up and it’s recommended every 30-50k miles. I know that’s some harsh stuff but walnut blasting insures you get it all and it’s isn’t being deposited into the cats or engine when it’s burning it up
@@jeffreyhinman1397 the N54 for sure! Those were notorious for having really bad carbon build up, but the later generation N55s have significantly less carbon build up. I took off my intake manifold and took some pictures. It’s got very light carbon build up, and this is after 90k miles of driving.
@@jeffreyhinman1397 I do run a catch can ever since I bought the car… although lately it hasn’t caught a lot of gunk. And a recent check of the intercooler also has little signs of oil/fuel… I definitely agree on using good quality fuel. I found out up North when I was driving through Iowa bum fu*** nowhere, that my catch can seemed to fill up with more gunk from crappier fuel
actually in my case, N55 engine has its intake tube placed down below... and it was a very very narrow space that you may fit your hand while holding a can... so yah, I guess the info you learn which indicates the necessity to remove the intake manifold must be for N55/B58 or related engines... (and actually B58 has a way worse place where that air intake tube was placed...)
@@jeremygong9410is it like this on all N55’s? I have an X4 M40i and off the top of my head, I feel like the MAF is quite accessible, but I can’t remember and it’s 6am and raining so I’m not checking right this moment.
I did this every other oil change, but when i took off the intake manifold, it was pretty dirty. Instead of walnut blasting, I soaked the valves in carb cleaner and they turned out fairly clean. Be forewarned that you really don't know how well this CRC /Seafoam treatment is going to work until you take the manifold off and inspect the ports.
I would say this just helps extend the intervals in between walnut blasting ( If it's normally done every 50k perhaps you could do it every 70k) and does a mild job of reducing the build up.
I did this yesterday on my m235i had no issues no white smoke while spraying it. Waited the hour then when i went to drive it i didnt get to the end of my street before the engine chugged i got a drivetrain malfunction, mutliple misfires in 1 2 3 4 and 6, engine knocked with white smoke shooting out my exhaust and put me in limp mode making sounds ive never heard before. Not a good look didnt help and completely freaked me out.
Ok if you are going to spray directly into the MAF sensor downstream of the intercooler… why bother taking off the MAF airflow sensor next to the air intake? Just take off the one next to the intake manifold… won’t trigger check engine light if done this way too
I wish this method was as effective as you claim but it isn’t. I’ve pulled of a manifold after another mechanic using similar product and the valves were still very heavily carboned up . Walnut blast is the only way to get them cleaned like new and ensure smooth engine operation.
This can answer the crc didn't work to the walnut blasting where it cleaned the valves, worked and his horse power gained by 20% with the walnut blasting ruclips.net/video/H6kQs1NLZkE/видео.html
try Liqui moly Diesel Decarb Cleaner. There are videos online and it uses a special tip to atomize the cleaner properly. From what ive seen its the best option for the money. Other option is to take it all apart. Pressure wash your manifold and spray clean or brush scrub and clean/vacuum out your intake valves.
I’m also skeptical of this method, I’ve just recently tried it on my BMW N55, and I’ll see if it does work. I will give CRC the benefit of the doubt and wait 1,000 miles for the cleaner to do it’s job. Then I will compare my results with my initial photos of my intake valves
I know I am late to the party but dude that is the MAP sensor not the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor is connected to the air intake tube just before the filter and this MAP sensor is installed just before the Throttle body.
Sooooo i happened to notice at the end that the car sounded like a diesel. I read into the cleaner and they say not to use this cleaner on a diesel engine......
CRC is a reputable brand. The cleaner won't damage anything, but of course if you haven't done a cleaning the first time is going to feel more rough than the others. After you do the cleaning and come back to the car I would suggest you get it up to temp and rev it like crazy. You should see some gunk spit out of the exhaust. Continue to rev until its all out.
I direct engines don't really need it if you get your gas from a place that has detergent additives. The detergents alont with the combustion process cleans that area to a great degree
@@FritzRamos It had a vacuum leak for I don't even know how long, small rip in intake boot, more so the rubber breaking apart, but I took out the disa valve and could see in the thing it was caked, I used the seafoam spray, went from 18 to 22 mpg, and got quite a smoke show, gonna open up the disa and look in there to see if it looks any different. Probably keeps clean as long as everything's clean in there, also had small power steering leak, figured some of that got sucked in maybe, who knows 4 sure, either way it runs a whole lot better👍
That was the map sensor as a FYI. This job is better achieved by taking the intake manifold off and manually closing the values, spraying the CRC in, let it soak, use a tooth brush to remove the carbon then soak it back up and use some carb cleaner and repeat on the other two cylinders.
Forget the brush, get yourself a water vaccum and make a long cone with laminated paper and duct tape to reach into the valves after the CRC had dissolved all the crap. It worked out so well for me that I orderd a vaccum with an included tip.
@@FritzRamos very unlikely that I will do it again, is only the first time because there was so much gunk in it, is recomended to use CRC before every oil change to keep the valves clean. There's another RUclips video of a guy taking the intake manifold off and spraying CRC into the closed valves, he cleaned the dissolved gunk with a brush, and he mentioned how much easier it would be with a vaccum, so that's how I got the idea. Don't forget to manually or electronically turn the engine over in order to close the valves that you will be working on.
the only thing worse than if it does nothing is if this actually breaks the carbon off the valves and gets ingested into the engine then turbo or if you really unlucky a valve closes on a chunk of carbon. on the inline 6's walnut blasting is not that much work and can be done in a evening. n63 on the other hand will probably require a shop and thousands of dollars so budget before you buy as unless it's CPO it probably hasn't been done.
If you have a traditional port injection you don't need to do this. The gas goes over the intake valves and cleans them in the process. ruclips.net/video/gn_DvzporDQ/видео.html
N52 is the most reliable engine BMW ever made…naturally aspirated, no carbon buildup possible, runs forever with routine maintenance! Sold my 128i at 11 years old, 200k miles, no lights, sounded and ran like the day I bought it in 2013!
There is a NA equivalent such as seafoam and similar brands. NA engines don't really need this as long as you have gas with detergents in them, such as Chevron or Shell.
@@danielpedrazaroa1177 If you get your gas from a place with detergents I wouldn't worry about it. Just get MAF and throttle body cleaner. You wouldn't need much, 1 can of each would last the life of your car if the active ingredients didn't degrade.
@@FritzRamos ok, I would just leave it like that haha, I'm from Colombia and the regular gas that I put on my non turbo cars has not a great quality as the premium. But I will just buy some gas additive. Thank u
I have a bmw N43 direct injection NA engine....my question is..... can you clean the intake just by driving at 3500-4000rpm for 10-15minutes? Someone said that if you drive sporti the engine cleans itself....is that true??
Doubtful. It doesnt matter how hard you drive your car, it will not clean the intake valves because there is no fuel being sprayed on them with direct injection.
yah, actually I was gonna do that, and bought all cleaner stuff, then I the very moment that I realize that mine was a 6-cylinder N55, where the intake tube is placed way down underneath to the right side, and it was almost impossible to reach out to that mass air sensor without taking out a lot many parts above. Sadly, it almost make it unsafe to reach out to it and operate while the engine is running... so yah, I guess no luck for me :(
That means you still have the original charge pipe… listen man get rid of that shitty plastic charge pipe, as it is literally a ticking bomb. One day you’ll be fine having a blast the next thing you know… limp mode. Change the charge pipe, and the downstream MAF sensor will even be easier to access
@@a9653192 that’s actually a very good tip, my CP was broken last year, I ended up bring it to the dealership and which cost me around $1,500 for the repair. By the time I was a noob, but ever since I switched to CSF intercooler and a lot more engine upgrades, I was thinking more of getting a new CP, okay the thing is: that dealership already tricked me to spent that much for a plastic CP last year, I think I’m gonna at least use it until it blasted off :( but thanks for the tip anyways.
hi, i didn't let the car to heat soak more than 25 min after i finished the crc can, i had some knock on the engine on load (i accelerate jentile) does this mean that the treatment was not done correct or should i aspect to see some of the deposits out on the tail pype?
Deposits will come out but the knock might be because the crc wasn't able to fully dissolve or breakdown the carbon into smaller pieces. So bigger chunks fell off causing the knock
Fritz Ramos I been hear a lot of ppl saying that is dangerous and the haven’t see no changes I just cannot do the walnut Blas because I’m in Texas and I don’t trust mechanics here
@@drazenrivera2004 dangerous in what sense? Don't expect a drastic change. It should be done with every oil change. Basically if you keep doing this, you shouldn't need to walnut blast of course an oil catch can helps out too
Trust me, this stuff doesnt work. Walnut blasting or manual scraping is the only method that works. Wont even clean the intake ports. Same your 20 bucks and go to harbor freight buy everything needed to do it yourself.
Correct as in this you tube video, the crc didn't work, his next video the walnut blasting cleaned the valves and regained 20% horsepower with the walnut blasting ruclips.net/video/H6kQs1NLZkE/видео.html
Wow diesel bmw sound horrible 😂😂😂 Just kidding but new engines sound horrible like diesel pickup 🤣🤣🤣 not like an old BMW E38, e39, e53 cars which you would like to listen too
My car does not have a MAF sensor. I actually applied the CRC cleaner into the turbo inlet pipe. My daughter handled the throttle. After it was heat soaked and I took it out on the "drive it like I stole it" drive, the engine idled like a turbine and my throttle response was much improved. I changed the oil a few days later. My engine runs like new.
I did this on my N55 but since i was also upgrading the charge pipe at the same time i just completely removed the charge pipe and sprayed directly into the throttle body. My engine’s power and throttle response has completely been restored and getting 2mpg more! Sure i could have removed the whole intake manifold and went further but the people that are saying that have no idea how much more time consuming that is compared to just spraying it through the intake manifold. This will give you more than half of the results that walnut blasting will give you for a TENTH of the price.
Great idea, I'll try this next time. Thanks for sharing!
@@FritzRamos yeah I also made the same comment somewhere else
Hi @Fritz, you actually took out the MAP (Manifold absolute pressure) sensor! The MAF also needs cleaned but it further up on the intake.
That was the boost pressure sensor you removed. The MAF sits right next to the airbox
You should remove the intake manifold and take photos of the valves. Proceed with your method. Then after retake photos of the valves for a solid comparison and to see how effective the method is vs walnut blasting.
Thanks for the input, maybe when I do it on my car.
Exactly, these cars get extreme carbon build up and it’s recommended every 30-50k miles. I know that’s some harsh stuff but walnut blasting insures you get it all and it’s isn’t being deposited into the cats or engine when it’s burning it up
@@jeffreyhinman1397 the N54 for sure! Those were notorious for having really bad carbon build up, but the later generation N55s have significantly less carbon build up. I took off my intake manifold and took some pictures. It’s got very light carbon build up, and this is after 90k miles of driving.
@a9653192 use of good fuel helps, and a catch can on the high and low side.
@@jeffreyhinman1397 I do run a catch can ever since I bought the car… although lately it hasn’t caught a lot of gunk. And a recent check of the intercooler also has little signs of oil/fuel… I definitely agree on using good quality fuel. I found out up North when I was driving through Iowa bum fu*** nowhere, that my catch can seemed to fill up with more gunk from crappier fuel
I think this is the right way of using CRC. There is no need to remove the intake manifold. Great video
Thank you
actually in my case, N55 engine has its intake tube placed down below... and it was a very very narrow space that you may fit your hand while holding a can... so yah, I guess the info you learn which indicates the necessity to remove the intake manifold must be for N55/B58 or related engines... (and actually B58 has a way worse place where that air intake tube was placed...)
I say don’t change your oil every 10k miles
Change your oil every 5-6 k miles
Prove it.. lets see the intake after
@@jeremygong9410is it like this on all N55’s? I have an X4 M40i and off the top of my head, I feel like the MAF is quite accessible, but I can’t remember and it’s 6am and raining so I’m not checking right this moment.
I did this every other oil change, but when i took off the intake manifold, it was pretty dirty.
Instead of walnut blasting, I soaked the valves in carb cleaner and they turned out fairly clean. Be forewarned that you really don't know how well this CRC /Seafoam treatment is going to work until you take the manifold off and inspect the ports.
Thanks for sharing and providing that tip! What would you say your mileage interval was for the service?
@@FritzRamos 78k KM (~50K Miles). I have a Hyundai Nu Engine (GDI)
Would it be safe to do Walnut Blasting, and then clean the remaining carbon buildup using a chemical cleaning agent like Seafoam/CRC?
I would say this just helps extend the intervals in between walnut blasting ( If it's normally done every 50k perhaps you could do it every 70k) and does a mild job of reducing the build up.
I did this yesterday on my m235i had no issues no white smoke while spraying it. Waited the hour then when i went to drive it i didnt get to the end of my street before the engine chugged i got a drivetrain malfunction, mutliple misfires in 1 2 3 4 and 6, engine knocked with white smoke shooting out my exhaust and put me in limp mode making sounds ive never heard before. Not a good look didnt help and completely freaked me out.
They check engine light doesn't come on when you have the MAF sensor out!?
Ok if you are going to spray directly into the MAF sensor downstream of the intercooler… why bother taking off the MAF airflow sensor next to the air intake? Just take off the one next to the intake manifold… won’t trigger check engine light if done this way too
If no check engine lights trigger, sounds good
Is that gas or diesel BWM at the end of video?? So much knocking sound.
You don't want it on the MAF sensor, but the MAP sensor is fine?
What if it sits longer than 1 hr, also what about the Tmap sensor after throttle body ?
Does any other way i can do this job without my assistance?
the thing he refers to MAF sensor is a MAP sensor. The MAF is much larger and its closer to the air intake.
So you dont want it earlier up right after the intake?
after u completed the spray did any issues come up like sensor and rubber or plastic errode any after doing this
if you are replacing your broken charge pipe with a new vrsf one + intercooler, would you use the intake valve cleaner right after the install?
It couldn't hurt, but I would link it with oil changes or every other oil change so it's easier to remember.
I wish this method was as effective as you claim but it isn’t. I’ve pulled of a manifold after another mechanic using similar product and the valves were still very heavily carboned up . Walnut blast is the only way to get them cleaned like new and ensure smooth engine operation.
1 for 1 I agree. But it's supposed to be done at every oil change so we'll see how it holds up
This can answer the crc didn't work to the walnut blasting where it cleaned the valves, worked and his horse power gained by 20% with the walnut blasting
ruclips.net/video/H6kQs1NLZkE/видео.html
try Liqui moly Diesel Decarb Cleaner. There are videos online and it uses a special tip to atomize the cleaner properly. From what ive seen its the best option for the money. Other option is to take it all apart. Pressure wash your manifold and spray clean or brush scrub and clean/vacuum out your intake valves.
I’m also skeptical of this method, I’ve just recently tried it on my BMW N55, and I’ll see if it does work. I will give CRC the benefit of the doubt and wait 1,000 miles for the cleaner to do it’s job. Then I will compare my results with my initial photos of my intake valves
I know I am late to the party but dude that is the MAP sensor not the MAF sensor. The MAF sensor is connected to the air intake tube just before the filter and this MAP sensor is installed just before the Throttle body.
Sooooo i happened to notice at the end that the car sounded like a diesel. I read into the cleaner and they say not to use this cleaner on a diesel engine......
The N20 isn't a diesel engine
I know this. But in the video that white car towards the end sounds just like my n47 diesel. If it’s not, my apologies.
@@theprodistini2590 nothing to be sorry for. Glad you brought it up for those who do have a diesel engine. Thanks for sharing
@@theprodistini2590 the n20 is direct injected they all sound like a diesel lol
@@stevenparchment2 Yea I get embarrassed at idle lol not quite that BMW sound
So I wanna check if the maf is faulty or not. So if the car is running and I unplug the sensor will it stall or keep running ?
I should still run
How safe is the cleaner for the engine? What engine is the BMW?
CRC is a reputable brand. The cleaner won't damage anything, but of course if you haven't done a cleaning the first time is going to feel more rough than the others.
After you do the cleaning and come back to the car I would suggest you get it up to temp and rev it like crazy. You should see some gunk spit out of the exhaust. Continue to rev until its all out.
What about an e46 325i 2004, will this work or only Direct Injection?
I direct engines don't really need it if you get your gas from a place that has detergent additives. The detergents alont with the combustion process cleans that area to a great degree
@@FritzRamos It had a vacuum leak for I don't even know how long, small rip in intake boot, more so the rubber breaking apart, but I took out the disa valve and could see in the thing it was caked, I used the seafoam spray, went from 18 to 22 mpg, and got quite a smoke show, gonna open up the disa and look in there to see if it looks any different. Probably keeps clean as long as everything's clean in there, also had small power steering leak, figured some of that got sucked in maybe, who knows 4 sure, either way it runs a whole lot better👍
Just letting you know, this cleans the valves about 2% out of 100% compared to actual walnut blasting. It does almost nothing.
Agreed. This is like trying to disinfect a toilet with the toilet water.
Check stp pro valve cleaner. Someone did look at valves before and after and it looked way better. It all depends on the cleaner you use
@@DrDre001 You don't get the thorough cleansing with those sprays. I will be better, but it will not get the benefits of walnut blasting.
putting seafoam in car...omg please people stop lol
Agree does nothing
That was the map sensor as a FYI. This job is better achieved by taking the intake manifold off and manually closing the values, spraying the CRC in, let it soak, use a tooth brush to remove the carbon then soak it back up and use some carb cleaner and repeat on the other two cylinders.
Thanks for sharing
Forget the brush, get yourself a water vaccum and make a long cone with laminated paper and duct tape to reach into the valves after the CRC had dissolved all the crap. It worked out so well for me that I orderd a vaccum with an included tip.
@@mrpabs5864 😮 If you're in the bay area, let's do a video on that! That's awesome!
@@FritzRamos very unlikely that I will do it again, is only the first time because there was so much gunk in it, is recomended to use CRC before every oil change to keep the valves clean. There's another RUclips video of a guy taking the intake manifold off and spraying CRC into the closed valves, he cleaned the dissolved gunk with a brush, and he mentioned how much easier it would be with a vaccum, so that's how I got the idea. Don't forget to manually or electronically turn the engine over in order to close the valves that you will be working on.
@@FritzRamoshere is the video ruclips.net/video/Kn6NVHLy-Xc/видео.html
the only thing worse than if it does nothing is if this actually breaks the carbon off the valves and gets ingested into the engine then turbo or if you really unlucky a valve closes on a chunk of carbon. on the inline 6's walnut blasting is not that much work and can be done in a evening. n63 on the other hand will probably require a shop and thousands of dollars so budget before you buy as unless it's CPO it probably hasn't been done.
Hey bro I have a e90 328xi 2011 I have port injection just wonder if I can use the same method to clean mine my engine is n52
If you have a traditional port injection you don't need to do this. The gas goes over the intake valves and cleans them in the process. ruclips.net/video/gn_DvzporDQ/видео.html
N52 is the most reliable engine BMW ever made…naturally aspirated, no carbon buildup possible, runs forever with routine maintenance! Sold my 128i at 11 years old, 200k miles, no lights, sounded and ran like the day I bought it in 2013!
This could be done in other cars? Like in N/a motors? For example V6 4runner?
There is a NA equivalent such as seafoam and similar brands. NA engines don't really need this as long as you have gas with detergents in them, such as Chevron or Shell.
@@FritzRamos oh good point, I was searching for similar valve on my N/a cars but not sure if it would work.
@@danielpedrazaroa1177 If you get your gas from a place with detergents I wouldn't worry about it. Just get MAF and throttle body cleaner. You wouldn't need much, 1 can of each would last the life of your car if the active ingredients didn't degrade.
@@FritzRamos ok, I would just leave it like that haha, I'm from Colombia and the regular gas that I put on my non turbo cars has not a great quality as the premium. But I will just buy some gas additive. Thank u
Is that a diesel?
No. It's gas
is this MAF or MAP?
That might also clean the throttle body too?
There's a specific cleaner for the throttle body.
@@FritzRamos Thank you. I was guessing when the cleaner passing through the throttle body. It might be cleaning it too.
I have a bmw N43 direct injection NA engine....my question is..... can you clean the intake just by driving at 3500-4000rpm for 10-15minutes? Someone said that if you drive sporti the engine cleans itself....is that true??
Doubtful. It doesnt matter how hard you drive your car, it will not clean the intake valves because there is no fuel being sprayed on them with direct injection.
yah, actually I was gonna do that, and bought all cleaner stuff, then I the very moment that I realize that mine was a 6-cylinder N55, where the intake tube is placed way down underneath to the right side, and it was almost impossible to reach out to that mass air sensor without taking out a lot many parts above. Sadly, it almost make it unsafe to reach out to it and operate while the engine is running... so yah, I guess no luck for me :(
That means you still have the original charge pipe… listen man get rid of that shitty plastic charge pipe, as it is literally a ticking bomb. One day you’ll be fine having a blast the next thing you know… limp mode. Change the charge pipe, and the downstream MAF sensor will even be easier to access
@@a9653192 that’s actually a very good tip, my CP was broken last year, I ended up bring it to the dealership and which cost me around $1,500 for the repair. By the time I was a noob, but ever since I switched to CSF intercooler and a lot more engine upgrades, I was thinking more of getting a new CP, okay the thing is: that dealership already tricked me to spent that much for a plastic CP last year, I think I’m gonna at least use it until it blasted off :( but thanks for the tip anyways.
Engine sounded funny driving off.
Initially it will. The gunk will come out of the exhaust under hard driving. Once it's all removed it will run and sound as normal
The other video by "Conquer Driving" shows that this does not work.
hi, i didn't let the car to heat soak more than 25 min after i finished the crc can, i had some knock on the engine on load (i accelerate jentile) does this mean that the treatment was not done correct or should i aspect to see some of the deposits out on the tail pype?
Deposits will come out but the knock might be because the crc wasn't able to fully dissolve or breakdown the carbon into smaller pieces. So bigger chunks fell off causing the knock
@@FritzRamos the engine is fine now, all good. i changed the oil after the treatment anyway thank you.
Very good video
Thanks, glad you found it helpful.
Any results? I’m n20 as well
Just expect a rough idle and acceleration right after. Once the gunk clears you're all good
Fritz Ramos I been hear a lot of ppl saying that is dangerous and the haven’t see no changes I just cannot do the walnut Blas because I’m in Texas and I don’t trust mechanics here
@@drazenrivera2004 dangerous in what sense? Don't expect a drastic change. It should be done with every oil change. Basically if you keep doing this, you shouldn't need to walnut blast of course an oil catch can helps out too
Do this with the Seafoam version of this treatment and watch the huge cloud of black smoke blow out the exhaust.
This doesn't work. Sorry.
Is this the same as the m235i
Yes
Nooo but why the car sounded like it was knocking at the end u just scared me now I don’t wanna try this 😭😭😭
Trust me, this stuff doesnt work. Walnut blasting or manual scraping is the only method that works. Wont even clean the intake ports. Same your 20 bucks and go to harbor freight buy everything needed to do it yourself.
Well I'll be doing this as a long term project and post the results so we have something to reference.
Correct as in this you tube video, the crc didn't work, his next video the walnut blasting cleaned the valves and regained 20% horsepower with the walnut blasting
ruclips.net/video/H6kQs1NLZkE/видео.html
This item does not ship to Russian Federation.... :(
I'm sorry.
Liqui moly throttle body and intake valve cleaner available in russia ,
, much more superior and potent advance formula than this crap
looking at the thumbnail and am just bewildered as to why you removed intercooler piping with the charge pipe
nvm I see it’s an F30 🤢
Can you help me do some work on my car too?
You want me to work on the Tesla???
Wow diesel bmw sound horrible 😂😂😂
Just kidding but new engines sound horrible like diesel pickup 🤣🤣🤣
not like an old BMW E38, e39, e53 cars which you would like to listen too
Agreed. When it comes to the 4 cylinders it's definitely more noticeable.
agr off + walnut blasting = problem solved
that car sounds like a diesel!
I e found stuff like this don’t work , walnut blasting 100% works
Heck that is bs
Take off the intake instead