@@8020Media Knock sensor, Walnut blast, OFHG, Power Steering reservoir, Front control arms, oil & coolant change. trying to also get the waste gate rattle fixed either later today or tomorrow. Had a knock sensor bank 1 code so hopefully it goes away after testing some pulls.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned in the comments, but taking wire ties in a bundle cut at angles, and different lengths, chucked up in your drill does a great job of removing carbon, while using amsoil foam cleaner.The wire ties do a very good job on removing the deposits on the back side of the valve stems. I figure anything to cut down on tedious scraping is a good thing.
@Infj-62 inspect and vacuum if needed. You're already going to have the vac out anyway. If you have the valves closed while cleaning them, like you should, there isn't any danger.
The issue with deposits in there are that they prevent the values from closing. You have to clean in the close position. But won’t you fail to clean the deposits that are causing the most trouble… the deposits between the valves and their seats… ?
That's a valid point, this process won't clean the seats. The seats are at least subjected to higher temperatures from the combustion chamber so the best way to try to manage carbon buildup there is to push your engine hard from time to time. Hit a few redlines foot the floor. And running some additives like seafoam will help as well.
Besides being built up so much that the port is plugged, carbon deposits usually cause air turbulence that results in performance issues. Any contamination on the seat is negligible and rarely results in them not closing adequately.
@@8020Mediaseafoam and running those chunks down in to your system runs the chance of getting into the turbo…..which most manufacturers and legit mechanics will tell you manual cleaning is the best way to go if your vehicle is boosted.
What fitting is used on the HF gun tip that allows for the extended nozzle to be threaded on? I have an extension nozzle that has a 3/8” male brass threaded fitting. 🙏🏼
I clean mine every 5,000 miles with CRC GDI IVD Cleaner. Manufacture suggested every 20,000 but I’d rather not. Though I seen some kinda worse ones that took two cans here on RUclips and got them pretty clean without media blasting. And yeah I had my car since new. Has 50,000 miles and purrrs like a kitten. If you up keep your direct injection engine preemptively. Basically before what manufacturer suggest you should be fine. Just remember, direct injected engines are high maintenance. And with the technology comes other anomalies such as LSPi so it’s extremely necessary to use an engine oil that prevents this phenomenon that can destroy your engine besides carbon buildup.
FYI do yourself a favor. Use CRC or any other GDi cleaner that you trust and like to use. clean your valves every 5,000- 10,000 miles don’t wait past that. I’d say if it’s turbocharged GDi? Every 5,000 with oil change. Normally aspirated GDi every 7,000-7,500 miles with oil change **important** use the CRC or whatever cleaner first. Afterward drive it for 10-15 minutes. Then do the oil change at your home if you dyi oil changes or take it to your fav oil change place? Well I’ve done my best and raised you right! Now get out there and do your best 😢ahhh.. they grow up so fast 😜
I just opened our 2015 Chrysler Town and Country Hydro locked engine, just removed the heads few minutes ago and have insane carbon buildup; I believe it is what actually hydrolocked it as carbon can not be compressed either; in the process of turning the crank to unbolt the torque converter, first the crank could not be turned with the engine in the bay; had to get it out with the tranny and went through hell to get them separated; when turning the crank with a breaker and cheater bar to get more leverage, it took considerable effort to turn and i could feel close to the rotation cycle the resistance which is why the engine was seized in the first place; tomorrow I will work on the block and inspect crankshaft, bearings and connecting rods but I need to ream out the cylinders before taking the pistons out just ordered a reamer and it comes Saturday, i hope I do not have a bent rod, also have not inspected the valves yet, head looks ok at first sight so far; I wonder if this blasting can be done with the engine in parts as it is right now? I also want to find a shop that would clean, inspect and rectify if needed the block and heads, hopefully that could be done for under 1k, no idea, I want to reuse this engine; it was installed at 59K miles as the factory one spun a bearing, van had 127K when it stop in a flooded street as my daughter was leaving for work in a thunderstorm; initially there was lot of water in the intake and I sucked also like around 32 ounces from the chambers, when I opened the oil pans got some water mixed with the oil but oil itself was in good shape and found no metal shaving or any broken parts so far; seem the engine simple stop at the effect of the water and the carbon and some water made past combustion chamber into the engine block. If all this is correct then I think it is fixable which is why i am taking it apart; Mopar lifetime warranty denied my claim and so did the insurance; wanted to total the van as repairs were quoted around 13K by dealer; this is why I am doing it.
F - Sounds like the van went through hell. Sorry to hear about this. However, we appreciate you taking the time to share your experience. Keep us updated!
I just saw my mechanic used the professional version of this on a Cadillac CTS and it came out perfect nothing was left in there cuz the vacuum was strong enough and there was no need for him to use any kind of a cleaner after it was done It was immaculate. He only charge like 400 bucks to do it.
It has nothing to do both vacuum. It all about pressure of compress air and ability to aim to hit all spots. Eliminate vacuum gizmo and you will be able to hit valve behind the stem. Cover all other ports from walnut overspray I this scenario
Rottingboards - Thanks for the feedback! We will look into adding it to our schedule. What would you want us to cover on the 3.5L TT? Since it is a rather new engine, it may be difficult to gauge reliability or common problems, but would love to hear what information you would be looking for.
@@8020Media Compare turbos, timing chain, and waste gates to the ford 3.5L. And overall engineering compared to the ford 3.5L ecoboost. I can't make my mind up between these two trucks for pulling a small RV.
Jesus - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps. A common grit is medium, or more specifically size #12, which is what we used. However, this all depends on the amount of buildup.
Gotcha, really depends on firing order but sometimes with how gunked up the valves get its hard to tell if it really is fully seated or just barely open. Definitely had a few turns where it was iffy on whether they were fully closed or not so just kept cranking to double check.
Good video. How much pressure were you using? For N54/N55/S55 engines, you are supposed to block off the PCV port at the top of the intake port when using media blasting to prevent media from going up into the PCV system. Anything that gets into the PCV system will end up getting sucked back into the intake port and it will go through the engine. The PCV ports are blocked by inserting a thin piece of metal like a feeler gauge between the valve cover and the cylinder head. It's another step, but it's in the official BMW procedure, so it should not be skipped.
Anywhere from 90-120psi I think - I just crank up the air compressor and let it rip. Didn't block off the pcv port on either N54 I walnut blasted recently without any issues but thanks for the heads up!
All this wouldn't be necessary if they kept the fuel and air going into the engine and the fuel would clean the valves at the same time, but they have now direct injection which requires carbon cleaning of the valves. I went to a Napa class and manufacturers are talking about bringing back fuel and air. Going before the intake valve, so it'll keep them clean without having to do this carbon cleaning
Great video. I have a 2016 Kia 2.0 turbo engine. Ordered the intake port adapter. Got to gather the media and blaster kit. May be over kill but would it be better to add air through the cylinder to insure nothing gets past the valve? Kinda like doing a valve steam seal replacement without removing the heads. Just a thought. I’m leaning more this way just for insurance.
Hello, Nice Video, Thanks for sharing! I'm planning to do same job with my Touareg 3.6 FSI, dont know for sure will VR configuration allows me to reach the far cylinders... Anyway.. How many (Lb), approximately, walnuts were used in your case for cleaning one intake(cylinder)? Thanks again!
David - if you have an N54 you can get the adapters and wand from BimmerHelp. www.bimmerhelp.info/buy-blasting-tools-html - I don't recommend their intake port adapter tho, it is made of bad plastic and broke on me twice so I had to tape the crap out of it. If you are looking for a different vehicle application I'd recommend just taking the blasting gun and wand to home depot and finding the right couplers that work for it. Even the fittings from BimmerHelp can probably be purchased for like $2-$3 from the hardware store, but I bought their full kit instead.
I have just one more question. After I have spent hours doing this work and getting the valves beautifully clean. What are the best ways to keep those valves clean??.. I read somewhere about oil catch cans? Do these help keep the valves clean? are there other things you can do to your engine to keep them cleaner for longer? Thank you.
S - Unfortunately with DI, you can't keep the valves as clean as walnut blasting them. However, you can assist this with a catch can or high-quality fuels and additives.
Hi, I came here in the hope to see what size walnut grit you use. I looked on ebay and there are various grit sizes. Which size is the best one to use for this job?
@@8020Media Thank you. This is what I have available on ebay in the UK. shot blasting walnut Media 16/30 0.5 mm cleaning Car engines+cylinder heads 20Kg. Is that ok?
Alex - This can all depend on the amount of carbon buildup and your engine. But a common grit is medium, or more specifically size #12. Hope this helped!
I didn't realize the tools and materials for this job were so inexpensive. Unfortunately I have to remove a supercharger on each of my cars to do this job.
Brian - Here are the links to the parts we used: amzn.to/3q1vlbS www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto-tools-parts/walnut-blaster-nozzle-3-8-male-npt-bavarian-autosport/b1100003~bav/ Let us know if you have any questions.
This is awesome. I've got some quick questions: - Where can we find the vaccuum/blaster adapters specific to my car (Qashqai)? - I'm new to this, but can it be done on any (gas/diesel) car, or only on specific types of engines? - A quick guide on how to put the gaskets back on would complete the mental puzzle that this is for me. - How can you tell that you need to do this procedure? - Can you check for carbon-build-up through the spark plug hole (after removing a spark plug) and putting a camera down there? Thanks!
I'll do my best to tackle each of these: 1. I'm not sure exactly where you can find it for a Qashqai, you might have better luck searching for an adapter based on the engine you have rather than the model - can't say I know what engine is in a Qashqai haha 2. It only needs to be done on cars that use direct injection - typically turbocharged direct injected cars will build the most carbon buildup 3. This really depends on your car and engine - I'd look for a specific guide on the forums on youtube that shows you how to pull the intake manifold off 4. The easiest way is visually inspecting the valves - it usually causes a slight performance loss over time so it usually isn't super noticeable to the untrained driver. Usually every ~80k-100k miles you will need it 5. No, you won't be able to see it thru the spark plugs as the buildup occurs within the intake ports and not within the cylinder that the spark plugs poke into
I bought it separately from here: www.bimmerhelp.info/product-page/walnut-blasting-hardware-kit but if you aren't doing it on a BMW you can just buy one off of Amazon that is similar, it's nothing crazy. I imagine this would work: amzn.to/3vsh1eX
Break cleaner is a bad idea it destroys the valves sealing rubber and will cause oil leaks over the valves stems causing oil level loss and more carbon buildup, I did fall in this trap more than once till I discovered it, walnut and scraping and that’s it
Interesting, I know brake cleaner is pretty commonly used for walnut blasting. I suppose if you do a good job keeping the valves closed and drying all of it out it should avoid contacting the valve stems.
Good video. Where did you find the adapter tip to attach the long nozzle to gun? I purchased the blaster at harbor freight and it did not come with it. It only came with ceramic tip and no other adapter.
I got it from here: www.bimmerhelp.info/buy-blasting-tools-html - they also had the vacuum adapter so just bought everything from them but you can probably find everything you need at a home depot or hardware store.
I probably wouldn't, just going to be extra dirt and stuff accumulated in with it. So long as the valves are fully closed I don't know that it would necessarily hurt so long as you can get everything out, but I don't know if maybe they'd be less effective if they are gunked up a bit with carbon. The walnut shells are cheap so I'd just buy more rather than messing around with dirty stuff.
What your video showed is when doing this procedure use BIG BOY tools instead of the stuff you give a 6 year old to play with. My blasting cabinet with aluminum oxide media can eat through a cast iron intake quicker then your itty bitty compressor set up ? why didn't you simply take a mouthful of walnut shells into your mouth and a large straw from a big gulp at sheetz and just blast it that way ? that is about as much blasting power as your lil compressor is putting out ? You use what you got handy but dont take a video of it and get others to try to do the same job with IMPROPER tools. most people that DIY at home use a 5 hp 60 gallon single stage compressor at the least and a few use the 5 hp 30 gallon compressor.
There is a little heart button at the bottom of the video if you'd like to help me get a big boy compressor so that I can be a big boy like you. I'd say my compressor did well enough, if you have a $1,200 big boy compressor good for you, use it. Most people buying something for the sake of walnut blasting aren't going to go buy a compressor that expensive. This video is to show you the process for doing it, good for you if you have better tools. I don't need to eat thru a cast iron intake but if I do I'm glad I know the guy for the job.
the video says DIY... no one in their right mind is going to buy blasting cabinets and whatever for a job that needs to be done around 60-80K miles lol ... now if you wanna make some side money.. sure go for it.. I think the video was truly just showing the basics of how to do it and what to look out for. Save yourself some coin from the dealerships or if you have trust issues with shops then you ultimately control the quality assurance of it all. The only thing wasted is time with underpowered tools..
@@kib1041 you dont NEED a blasting cabinet .. what you do need is an air compressor bigger then those lil doughnut mini ones that are used by roofing contractors to power a nail gun. the purpose is to blast the carbon off with a very soft media to not harm anything but you at least need some air PSI to do the job. a pancake air compressor is not up to the job. The actual blaster gun can be as cheap as a $8 harbor freight gun and work with no issues. My point was that the air compressor was perhaps the smallest you can buy and not up to any task beyond blowing dust off your keyboard or powering a pinstriping paint gun.
@@mathewhoffer4541 Just what kind of pressure are you suggesting, 500 pounds per square inch? That little "hotdog" compressor is capable of 150 PSI, more than enough to walnut blast an engine intake port. OK, I'll give you the benefit of it doesn't have the "volume" to spray a continuous stream but it will do the job in short bursts . . .
My 300hp Pentastar 3.6L has 196k and I just replaced a few lifters. My valves where nowhere near this bad. What kid of busted ass motor are you running?
These DIY videos are super handy!!
Walnut blasting my N54 today along with some other maintenance stuff!
Bass - Thanks for the feedback! Glad it was helpful. What maintenance did you perform?
@@8020Media Knock sensor, Walnut blast, OFHG, Power Steering reservoir, Front control arms, oil & coolant change. trying to also get the waste gate rattle fixed either later today or tomorrow. Had a knock sensor bank 1 code so hopefully it goes away after testing some pulls.
Bass - Nice! Always good to knock out maintenance, especially on BMWs.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned in the comments, but taking wire ties in a bundle cut at angles, and different lengths, chucked up in your drill does a great job of removing carbon, while using amsoil foam cleaner.The wire ties do a very good job on removing the deposits on the back side of the valve stems. I figure anything to cut down on tedious scraping is a good thing.
Gerald - Thanks for sharing this insight. First time seeing this.
I did this for my N55 and it worked wonderfully, great tip
T - Thanks for sharing your experience!
Heard that yes but isn't there a danger they could brake off and small bits or even chunks could stay in there?
@Infj-62 inspect and vacuum if needed. You're already going to have the vac out anyway. If you have the valves closed while cleaning them, like you should, there isn't any danger.
Good video with patient explanation, that's exactly what I needed. Also learned about the remote starter. Subscribed.
D - Thanks for the feedback and support!
The issue with deposits in there are that they prevent the values from closing. You have to clean in the close position. But won’t you fail to clean the deposits that are causing the most trouble… the deposits between the valves and their seats… ?
That's a valid point, this process won't clean the seats. The seats are at least subjected to higher temperatures from the combustion chamber so the best way to try to manage carbon buildup there is to push your engine hard from time to time. Hit a few redlines foot the floor. And running some additives like seafoam will help as well.
Besides being built up so much that the port is plugged, carbon deposits usually cause air turbulence that results in performance issues. Any contamination on the seat is negligible and rarely results in them not closing adequately.
@@8020Mediaseafoam and running those chunks down in to your system runs the chance of getting into the turbo…..which most manufacturers and legit mechanics will tell you manual cleaning is the best way to go if your vehicle is boosted.
Seems like a $20 Endoscope/Borescope that hooks up to your phones usb C would be a good tool to have on this job. Great vid!
J - Not a bad idea!
You can easily see all of the valve without endoscope , video had bad angle and too far away to actually see in
What fitting is used on the HF gun tip that allows for the extended nozzle to be threaded on? I have an extension nozzle that has a 3/8” male brass threaded fitting. 🙏🏼
I clean mine every 5,000 miles with CRC GDI IVD Cleaner. Manufacture suggested every 20,000 but I’d rather not. Though I seen some kinda worse ones that took two cans here on RUclips and got them pretty clean without media blasting. And yeah I had my car since new. Has 50,000 miles and purrrs like a kitten. If you up keep your direct injection engine preemptively. Basically before what manufacturer suggest you should be fine. Just remember, direct injected engines are high maintenance. And with the technology comes other anomalies such as LSPi so it’s extremely necessary to use an engine oil that prevents this phenomenon that can destroy your engine besides carbon buildup.
FYI do yourself a favor. Use CRC or any other GDi cleaner that you trust and like to use. clean your valves every 5,000- 10,000 miles don’t wait past that. I’d say if it’s turbocharged GDi? Every 5,000 with oil change. Normally aspirated GDi every 7,000-7,500 miles with oil change **important** use the CRC or whatever cleaner first. Afterward drive it for 10-15 minutes. Then do the oil change at your home if you dyi oil changes or take it to your fav oil change place? Well I’ve done my best and raised you right! Now get out there and do your best 😢ahhh.. they grow up so fast 😜
A - Well said and great advise. This will certainly help future viewers!
I just opened our 2015 Chrysler Town and Country Hydro locked engine, just removed the heads few minutes ago and have insane carbon buildup; I believe it is what actually hydrolocked it as carbon can not be compressed either; in the process of turning the crank to unbolt the torque converter, first the crank could not be turned with the engine in the bay; had to get it out with the tranny and went through hell to get them separated; when turning the crank with a breaker and cheater bar to get more leverage, it took considerable effort to turn and i could feel close to the rotation cycle the resistance which is why the engine was seized in the first place; tomorrow I will work on the block and inspect crankshaft, bearings and connecting rods but I need to ream out the cylinders before taking the pistons out just ordered a reamer and it comes Saturday, i hope I do not have a bent rod, also have not inspected the valves yet, head looks ok at first sight so far; I wonder if this blasting can be done with the engine in parts as it is right now? I also want to find a shop that would clean, inspect and rectify if needed the block and heads, hopefully that could be done for under 1k, no idea, I want to reuse this engine; it was installed at 59K miles as the factory one spun a bearing, van had 127K when it stop in a flooded street as my daughter was leaving for work in a thunderstorm; initially there was lot of water in the intake and I sucked also like around 32 ounces from the chambers, when I opened the oil pans got some water mixed with the oil but oil itself was in good shape and found no metal shaving or any broken parts so far; seem the engine simple stop at the effect of the water and the carbon and some water made past combustion chamber into the engine block. If all this is correct then I think it is fixable which is why i am taking it apart; Mopar lifetime warranty denied my claim and so did the insurance; wanted to total the van as repairs were quoted around 13K by dealer; this is why I am doing it.
F - Sounds like the van went through hell. Sorry to hear about this. However, we appreciate you taking the time to share your experience. Keep us updated!
I just saw my mechanic used the professional version of this on a Cadillac CTS and it came out perfect nothing was left in there cuz the vacuum was strong enough and there was no need for him to use any kind of a cleaner after it was done It was immaculate. He only charge like 400 bucks to do it.
Firm - This is a DIY setup. Shops have much better parts for the job. Thanks for the insight on how much it costs! Very helpful for future viewers.
any issues after, engine light or worse?
It has nothing to do both vacuum. It all about pressure of compress air and ability to aim to hit all spots.
Eliminate vacuum gizmo and you will be able to hit valve behind the stem. Cover all other ports from walnut overspray I this scenario
Great video as always. I would love to hear 8020 Media on the new Toyota Tundras V6 turbo.
Rottingboards - Thanks for the feedback! We will look into adding it to our schedule. What would you want us to cover on the 3.5L TT? Since it is a rather new engine, it may be difficult to gauge reliability or common problems, but would love to hear what information you would be looking for.
@@8020Media Compare turbos, timing chain, and waste gates to the ford 3.5L. And overall engineering compared to the ford 3.5L ecoboost. I can't make my mind up between these two trucks for pulling a small RV.
We’ll add that to our schedule, thanks for the suggestion!
Very well explained.
Just one question, what grade walnut shells did you use?
Coarse medium or fine?
Thanks
Jesus - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps. A common grit is medium, or more specifically size #12, which is what we used. However, this all depends on the amount of buildup.
Size 12 is course grit at harbor freight.
Gerald - Thanks for this insight.
24 grit from harbor freight
T - Is this what you used?
Very helpful and informative video! Thanks!
Gareth - Thanks for the feedback! We hope it helps.
Was it pretty easy to manally turn the crank shaft to close the valve? It seemed pretty easy using one hand. Thanks.
Sage - Yes, it's relatively easy!
Only 1 and 4 are open on mine at tdc. Was able to do 4 of em turned crank for the last 2.
Gotcha, really depends on firing order but sometimes with how gunked up the valves get its hard to tell if it really is fully seated or just barely open. Definitely had a few turns where it was iffy on whether they were fully closed or not so just kept cranking to double check.
Good video. How much pressure were you using? For N54/N55/S55 engines, you are supposed to block off the PCV port at the top of the intake port when using media blasting to prevent media from going up into the PCV system. Anything that gets into the PCV system will end up getting sucked back into the intake port and it will go through the engine. The PCV ports are blocked by inserting a thin piece of metal like a feeler gauge between the valve cover and the cylinder head. It's another step, but it's in the official BMW procedure, so it should not be skipped.
Anywhere from 90-120psi I think - I just crank up the air compressor and let it rip. Didn't block off the pcv port on either N54 I walnut blasted recently without any issues but thanks for the heads up!
All this wouldn't be necessary if they kept the fuel and air going into the engine and the fuel would clean the valves at the same time, but they have now direct injection which requires carbon cleaning of the valves. I went to a Napa class and manufacturers are talking about bringing back fuel and air. Going before the intake valve, so it'll keep them clean without having to do this carbon cleaning
V - Great point!
Great video. I have a 2016 Kia 2.0 turbo engine. Ordered the intake port adapter. Got to gather the media and blaster kit. May be over kill but would it be better to add air through the cylinder to insure nothing gets past the valve? Kinda like doing a valve steam seal replacement without removing the heads. Just a thought. I’m leaning more this way just for insurance.
Ernest - Thanks for the feedback! We hope you found it helpful. Keep us updated with how it goes.
Hello, Nice Video, Thanks for sharing! I'm planning to do same job with my Touareg 3.6 FSI, dont know for sure will VR configuration allows me to reach the far cylinders... Anyway.. How many (Lb), approximately, walnuts were used in your case for cleaning one intake(cylinder)? Thanks again!
E - Thanks for the feedback! Glad the video helped. ~ 1-2 pounds (0.5-1 kg) of crushed walnut shells/cylinder.
Great video. I would really like some more details on how you modified the blaster nozzle.
David - if you have an N54 you can get the adapters and wand from BimmerHelp. www.bimmerhelp.info/buy-blasting-tools-html - I don't recommend their intake port adapter tho, it is made of bad plastic and broke on me twice so I had to tape the crap out of it.
If you are looking for a different vehicle application I'd recommend just taking the blasting gun and wand to home depot and finding the right couplers that work for it. Even the fittings from BimmerHelp can probably be purchased for like $2-$3 from the hardware store, but I bought their full kit instead.
I have just one more question. After I have spent hours doing this work and getting the valves beautifully clean. What are the best ways to keep those valves clean??.. I read somewhere about oil catch cans? Do these help keep the valves clean? are there other things you can do to your engine to keep them cleaner for longer? Thank you.
S - Unfortunately with DI, you can't keep the valves as clean as walnut blasting them. However, you can assist this with a catch can or high-quality fuels and additives.
Do you have a part number for the blaster?
amzn.to/3q1vlbS
Hi, I came here in the hope to see what size walnut grit you use. I looked on ebay and there are various grit sizes. Which size is the best one to use for this job?
S - A common grit is medium, or size #12.
@@8020Media Thank you. This is what I have available on ebay in the UK. shot blasting walnut Media 16/30 0.5 mm cleaning Car engines+cylinder heads 20Kg. Is that ok?
S - Should be.
what grit is best for walnut shells?
Alex - This can all depend on the amount of carbon buildup and your engine. But a common grit is medium, or more specifically size #12. Hope this helped!
@8020Media what did you use on the media blaster gun to get that longer stem
Mike - Here is the tool we used: www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto-tools-parts/walnut-blaster-nozzle-3-8-male-npt-bavarian-autosport/b1100003~bav/
@@8020MediaI found one on eBay that is described to be specific to my 2.3L EcoBoost. What makes the extension nozzles necessary and vehicle specific?
P - Different sized intake ports.
I didn't realize the tools and materials for this job were so inexpensive. Unfortunately I have to remove a supercharger on each of my cars to do this job.
Ozzy - Definitely! Not a terrible DIY if you have the proper tools. Sorry to hear, what engines?
@@8020Media both are Audi 3.0TFSI
What parts to make or where did you get the longer nozzle for the blaster gun?
Brian - Here are the links to the parts we used:
amzn.to/3q1vlbS
www.ecstuning.com/b-bav-auto-tools-parts/walnut-blaster-nozzle-3-8-male-npt-bavarian-autosport/b1100003~bav/
Let us know if you have any questions.
@@8020Media thank you much!
Brian - Keep us updated! Hope it goes well.
where can I get an Intake port adapter for a 2016 GMC Canyon with a 3.6L LFX engine?
M - You should be able to find something online.
Would a ultrasonic cleaner with a probe be better?
M - We prefer our method. But that could also work! All depends on what tools you have.
how much media do you need for a 4 cylinder vehicle?
10 pounds should be plenty enough. If it's your first time doing it then having extra isn't the worst thing either though.
This is awesome. I've got some quick questions:
- Where can we find the vaccuum/blaster adapters specific to my car (Qashqai)?
- I'm new to this, but can it be done on any (gas/diesel) car, or only on specific types of engines?
- A quick guide on how to put the gaskets back on would complete the mental puzzle that this is for me.
- How can you tell that you need to do this procedure?
- Can you check for carbon-build-up through the spark plug hole (after removing a spark plug) and putting a camera down there?
Thanks!
I'll do my best to tackle each of these:
1. I'm not sure exactly where you can find it for a Qashqai, you might have better luck searching for an adapter based on the engine you have rather than the model - can't say I know what engine is in a Qashqai haha
2. It only needs to be done on cars that use direct injection - typically turbocharged direct injected cars will build the most carbon buildup
3. This really depends on your car and engine - I'd look for a specific guide on the forums on youtube that shows you how to pull the intake manifold off
4. The easiest way is visually inspecting the valves - it usually causes a slight performance loss over time so it usually isn't super noticeable to the untrained driver. Usually every ~80k-100k miles you will need it
5. No, you won't be able to see it thru the spark plugs as the buildup occurs within the intake ports and not within the cylinder that the spark plugs poke into
Are you turning clockwise or anti clockwise for moving the intake value manually?
B - Clockwise.
Does the harbor freight media blaster comes with long nozzle? Or thaz bought separately? If so, could you share the link?
I bought it separately from here: www.bimmerhelp.info/product-page/walnut-blasting-hardware-kit but if you aren't doing it on a BMW you can just buy one off of Amazon that is similar, it's nothing crazy. I imagine this would work: amzn.to/3vsh1eX
Can you post a link to this Abrasive Blaster Kit
Sure thing! This is the one we used: amzn.to/3q1vlbS
How do you prevent the shells to go into the valve top opening?
G - You need to make sure the valves are fully closed and seated before you spray the shells into that cylinder
@@8020Media Thank you for the response! 😁I Meant the cylinder Head. this question is the only thing preventing me from doing this to my N54
G - This was done on an N54, so you should just be able to follow step by step.
How do I crank the engine to close the intake valves
C - We explain this in the video.
Where do i buy that corded remote starter?
C - Not totally sure what you're talking about here
How mush it cost on ford fusion
H - It really depends on where you go, but you should be looking at anywhere from $400-$900..
I cannot find any mechanics in the Los Angeles area (San Fernando Valley) who performs walnut blasting. Can anyone suggest someone who does this?
What kind of car? Some BMW performance shops should definitely do it.
Break cleaner is a bad idea it destroys the valves sealing rubber and will cause oil leaks over the valves stems causing oil level loss and more carbon buildup, I did fall in this trap more than once till I discovered it, walnut and scraping and that’s it
Interesting, I know brake cleaner is pretty commonly used for walnut blasting. I suppose if you do a good job keeping the valves closed and drying all of it out it should avoid contacting the valve stems.
You're not confusing brake fluid with brake cleaner? Just want to make sure it's not a typo.
Nope, we are referring to brake cleaner. It's a common product used when DIY walnut blasting.
Not happening. Brake cleaner evaporates very quickly, you're just making stuff up at this point.
Or... Use Mr. Muscle oven cleaner. Let it soak over night (closed valves). Clean out next day with brake cleaner then use walnut
D - Also an alternative.
Good video. Where did you find the adapter tip to attach the long nozzle to gun? I purchased the blaster at harbor freight and it did not come with it. It only came with ceramic tip and no other adapter.
I got it from here: www.bimmerhelp.info/buy-blasting-tools-html - they also had the vacuum adapter so just bought everything from them but you can probably find everything you need at a home depot or hardware store.
@@8020Media
Got it
Thank you.
Would you reuse the walnut media that collects inside the vacuum ?
I probably wouldn't, just going to be extra dirt and stuff accumulated in with it. So long as the valves are fully closed I don't know that it would necessarily hurt so long as you can get everything out, but I don't know if maybe they'd be less effective if they are gunked up a bit with carbon. The walnut shells are cheap so I'd just buy more rather than messing around with dirty stuff.
id rather use upper engine cleaner compared to carb cleaner
Thanks for the advice! About to walnut blast another one so I'll give it a try.
Ummmm I think I’ll just buy a Tesla.
I’d rather slowly put money into a car than put 20k into a battery in one lump sum
U - Enjoy your Tesla. We're going to stick with gas vehicles for the foreseeable future.. What's the fun in electric cars..
Tesla's are great from going a to b. No soul, just the stress of low battery and poor build quality. Just a brick on wheels.
O - Completely agree.
What your video showed is when doing this procedure use BIG BOY tools instead of the stuff you give a 6 year old to play with. My blasting cabinet with aluminum oxide media can eat through a cast iron intake quicker then your itty bitty compressor set up ? why didn't you simply take a mouthful of walnut shells into your mouth and a large straw from a big gulp at sheetz and just blast it that way ? that is about as much blasting power as your lil compressor is putting out ? You use what you got handy but dont take a video of it and get others to try to do the same job with IMPROPER tools. most people that DIY at home use a 5 hp 60 gallon single stage compressor at the least and a few use the 5 hp 30 gallon compressor.
There is a little heart button at the bottom of the video if you'd like to help me get a big boy compressor so that I can be a big boy like you. I'd say my compressor did well enough, if you have a $1,200 big boy compressor good for you, use it. Most people buying something for the sake of walnut blasting aren't going to go buy a compressor that expensive. This video is to show you the process for doing it, good for you if you have better tools. I don't need to eat thru a cast iron intake but if I do I'm glad I know the guy for the job.
the video says DIY... no one in their right mind is going to buy blasting cabinets and whatever for a job that needs to be done around 60-80K miles lol ... now if you wanna make some side money.. sure go for it.. I think the video was truly just showing the basics of how to do it and what to look out for. Save yourself some coin from the dealerships or if you have trust issues with shops then you ultimately control the quality assurance of it all. The only thing wasted is time with underpowered tools..
@@kib1041 you dont NEED a blasting cabinet .. what you do need is an air compressor bigger then those lil doughnut mini ones that are used by roofing contractors to power a nail gun. the purpose is to blast the carbon off with a very soft media to not harm anything but you at least need some air PSI to do the job. a pancake air compressor is not up to the job. The actual blaster gun can be as cheap as a $8 harbor freight gun and work with no issues. My point was that the air compressor was perhaps the smallest you can buy and not up to any task beyond blowing dust off your keyboard or powering a pinstriping paint gun.
@@mathewhoffer4541 Just what kind of pressure are you suggesting, 500 pounds per square inch? That little "hotdog" compressor is capable of 150 PSI, more than enough to walnut blast an engine intake port. OK, I'll give you the benefit of it doesn't have the "volume" to spray a continuous stream but it will do the job in short bursts . . .
My 300hp Pentastar 3.6L has 196k and I just replaced a few lifters. My valves where nowhere near this bad. What kid of busted ass motor are you running?
Umm doesn't your Pentastar also have port injection....