Silicone is fairly flame-retardant. A properly molded and sized silicone exit orifice would produce a continuous fart noise the entire time this device goes off. This is a bad idea and you should do it. I expect it to not improve performance of the device in any way.
@@InventionIncarnate I love it. Probably needs an expansion chamber before the orifice to work like a whoopie cushion instead of a 40mm recoilless fleshlight munition. Either way, should be entertaining.
V or funnel shape screen instead of tube would allow more smoke mix, allow more smoke escape and block hole from blow out if you can’t bend it a holding pin would work or fart valve.
Hey, remember that time when the FBI used tear gas rounds on a dry wooden structure and claimed they totally didn't start a massive fire that incinerated and killed 76 people, including 28 children? Pepperidge Farm remembers, House Mormont remembers........
Serious recommendation: There is a RUclipsr who recreated starlite: a fire suppression and thermal resistant compound. The youtubers name is “NighthawkInLight” Its super easy to make. As it burns, it bubbles and off gasses CO2. a thin layer is an INCREDIBLE insulator. You can use this to coat a can and it WILL NOT burn anything it touches. As a demonstration, he took a thin sheet of it in his hand and held a propane torch for his hand for a minute. Hand was completely fine.
Very interesting video! Not sure if this was discussed before but i would suggest mixing baking soda directly into the pyrotechnic mixture. What this will do is slow down the reaction speed and potentially reduce fire hazard. Depending on the mix it may also help produce more smoke because the added CO2 will reduce the flame
this is how you can turn rocket candy into a smoke bomb....it works surprisingly well and i think this guy should do a side by side weight to smoke comparison
Those smoke grenades definitely need some baking soda mixed in with the mixture. It will also stop the flames. Also, the top of the smoke grenade flying off could cause issues. No one wants a piece of the smoke grenade flying at them. I suggest a small empty space with a screen and holes drilled in the top or bottom. The holes should let the gasses excape, while keeping the smoke grenade whole.
Those look better than any of the homemade smoke grenades I've seen online, and comparable to the Army issued ones I used to use. An obvious difference is that the military smoke grenades have a tape covered hole in the bottom that the smoke comes out of, and they don't pop the fuse out during use. Perhaps instead of putting plaster in them, you could put a ½-¾" hole in the center of the bottom and try to secure the caps better, perhaps with Loctite or an adhesive that weakens once it gets really hot, so that it won't pop off right away, but will be removable after use.
We need a large version like the old school 25 pound smoke pots we used to have. You could set them on each other and the top pot would automatically ignite the next one. We used to smoke out whole valleys. Keep up the great work.
Copper is very malleable. Plumbers have tools for "flaring" copper tubing to expand one end of the tube. Suggest that you flare the end of the copper tube so that it bends and seals in the top to also stop chunks from being ejected. You can use some other sealant to hold it together or a crude metal snap ring that holds the flared copper tube in place.
This is what I was going to suggest. A flared cone with some sort of snap ring to hold it. Perforate the cone with smaller holes and leave the core holes the size they are.
@@MrFugasi = best idea if you think about it it would solve multiple problems if you could flare the top enough or if you could weld a mesh ring to the chimney when you press it in you would be installing the mesh ring at the same time and give it something to hang on to or even better snap ring it on after putting them together would also keep the chimney in but also mesh is plaster would make it stronger like rebar in concrete and then mesh in silicon would add all the best ideas together so you get that long ripping fart noise for no reason what so ever!
If you want your smoke to stay low to the ground. I know that tech ingredients has some videos on them where they’ve experimented with paraffin and their smoke stays real low. May be hard to bring your compositions together though
this acts exactly like a solid rocket motor. research into the field of modal rocketry will be aplicable in your current endeavor. Anyways the entire surface of the inside cylinder will be under combustion. It will not just burn from the bottom or the top, the flame front travels to all exposed fuel. And your worries of it being filtered by the ash is overblown, don't fixate on it. much luck on the next iteration. -jeb
@@jebkermen6087 Excellent point, I came here to say something similar. The circular center shaft will have a constantly increasing burn rate (burns faster as time passes), which gets hotter and may lead to unwanted embers and higher smoke temperature. It would be interesting to see how a narrow central cavity (like an oval) affects the burn rate and smoke intensity. Also there are lots of resources available covering different cavity designs for solid rocket motors.
Hey, @invention incarnate You could use a big washer just big enough to fit your canister hole size, but with a center hole small enough to prevent your perforated tube from coming out. Then go to the hardware store and get a snap ring that just bigger than the washer (they will have them at parts stores and hardware stores) the snap ring should prevent the washer from being able to come out because of the tapered neck/and or the threads of the neck. You could also drill smaller holes through the washer so it helps prevent it from acting like a rocket.
You might be the one person who would benefit from adding steel wool to his plaster of paris. It doesn't do me any good when my buddy adds it to foundries and lowers our maximum temperature but it might solve your cracking in this situation considering the reactions cold enough it did it totally slag that copper tube. You making me want to take a gander down the plumbing aisle though to see what has a flat base and that three quarters inch pipe traveling the whole way through so that way you could have a drop in one piece metal solution for your so-called chimney. You got me saving soup cans and weird glue again
You are essentially making slow-burning solid fuel rockets, but without compression. If you restrict the nozzle more you will either create a rocket and see it flying or a bomb. Taking that into account, I'd apply some lessons I learned from making rockets. * add a liner to the can before filling it, something like fireplace sealant. Just brushing it in 2 coats should be enough, or you could fill and pour it out. It prevents heat from passing through the metal can and lighting shit on fire, it also protects the metal against most of the heat. * make your fuel pourable, when you pack it like that it's probably filled with air bubbles in between chunks that heat up and explode, causing the chunks to fly out. Pouring it means smaller air bubbles and you can vibrate to get rid of most of them. Also allows better control of how much fuel you are adding exactly. * Increase the center hole chimney by 50% and use a proper steel pipe, not just a broom handle, this will make things safer and lower pressure, at the cost of only a little less fuel. almost half your fuel in weight is the outer 10% of the content of the can. * You could probably benefit from adding some kind of liner between the fuel and the pipe. Fireplace sealant works, but you don't want the liner to block the holes, so probably paint the pipe with the liner before you assemble everything. * only perforate the bottom half of the chimney pipe, you don't want the top to burn, you want it to burn bottom up. Holes in the middle and top are igniting your fuel all around, you can see this in the video, this creates a short, hot and messy burn. Probably burning some of your smoke into carbon before it leaves the can. * make an actual cap of burn-safe material, like fireplace sealant with rockwool that both keeps the metal tube in place once hardened, and prevents the fuel from combusting from the top. Make sure you dont block the tube with this.
Hi, I have a couple ideas that I believe are worth investigating. First, try using the finely perforated center tubes found in automotive oil filters. The fine perforations should decrease the “chunk” events to minimal levels and may even offer protection from the fuel surrounding the tube from ignition by the primer thus allowing a more optimal bottom to top fuel burn. The finely perforated tube could also theoretically control the rate of smoke released due to higher resistance for fluids to flow through 100+ small orifices vs 10-15 open circles, which should help keep more heat within the system, which could culminate in greater burn efficiency resulting in either elongated burn times or producing more smoke overall. I would suggest a large capacity oil filter for a diesel truck as they would have the longest tubes for you to use. Second, solid fuel rockets often mold the fuel with a star pattern center channel to increase fuel surface area and to promote a more equal burn rate. If I remember correctly, the star pattern also helps protect the fuel column from pre-igniting before its proper time in the ideal bottom to top fuel burn. I honestly wish I could test these ideas myself but would be very intrigued to hear your findings if you include these in your next smoke canister video. Thanks for considering!
Oh almost forgot, my original thought is to use something resembling a rack and pinion gear mounted to the rod you use to create the center hole to create the star pattern.
Looks awesome, definitely a more advanced method. Super-easy smoke bomb... newspaper (can be hard to source these days:):) and ammonium nitrate from a cold pack or Tannerite. Mix the AN into some water, get the newspaper wet with it. Hang the paper up to dry. Roll it up around a "Whistling Peet" , a sparkler, or come up with another method of lighting it internally. Puts out an insane amount of smoke.
@@botston A firecracker with the bottom plug pulled out works great. For some reason, WP''s are available in a lot of places that don't allow firecrackers. The objective is to introduce a lot of heat into the rolled up, AN-infused newspaper. Telling you: when done right, the results are as good as the stuff in the video.
@@botston Funny because it took me a moment. First thing I ever did with WP's was toss the plastic and modify the wp... I forgot about that part! OK, bonus: homemade napalm. about 8 parts Styrofoam, 1 part gasoline. Lots of Smiles Per Gallon (SPG)
I just found your channel and appreciate your continued efforts and time. Thank you . I wonder if instead of plaster you could use refractory cement for the cap ? Plaster becomes brittle with extreme heat and the pressure inside the canister is enough to spall the plaster. I believe you can buy refractory cement in a calking tube to make it easier. The tube is used for fireplaces and wood stoves.
Loxeal 4401 2 part, semi flexible, high temperature epoxy adhesive. I think you can also get moldable 2 part ceramics. This is going to be better than plaster, there are many things out there to do this job.
Try packing the mixture into the can with a fixture like they use to make rockets or strobes. This should remove the need to put the bicarbonate in to take up dead space. Place the perforated tube inside the can and then use a tightish fitting dowel to occlude the inside of the tube. Remove the dowel after the can is tightly packed. If you’re having trouble with the mixture compacting, you can probably use paraffin as a binder. You’ll need to melt the wax and add the mixture to it then sufficiently mix it into a paste. You could also use a card stock sleeve to block off the upper holes. Get the paper thickness right and it will burn away when the holes are reached.
The real M18 also has a hole in the bottom. It may help relieve the internal pressure spikes and could be sealed with wax paper glued to the bottom of the can.
If you want to reduce the outside temperature of the canister, why not coat the inside with the same plaster you used on the top? It would detract from the total volume of compound that you can place inside, but depending on the thickness of the plaster layer, it could be reduced from red hot to warm or even cool to the touch while active. Side note: The plaster you used is a powder, but you may be able to find one that can be made into a liquid, which would make for a much simpler coating process. 1. Mix plaster. 2. Pour a small amount into the canister. 3. Cover. 4. Roll until thoroughly coated. 5. Cure. 6. Repeat until desired thickness is achieved. (I don't know anything about pyrotechnics)
Add a 1 1/2” washer areound the 3/4” tube while adding a series of 1/8” holes around the cap. This should in theory resolve the cap pop off, increase volume and eliminate flaming chunks. Maybe steel wool in the top 25% of the 3/4” tube to assist in filtering off ejecta.
Add sodium Bicarbonate to the smoke mixture, this should reduce temp, slow the burn... I am guessing it may keep the smoke closer to the ground longer as well... awesome project!!!
A few ideas to try, you can weld the 3/4" core tube to the cap, perforate only the top portion, just above the compound fill line. the fuse will ignite the compound on the top but the smoke will travel along the center core to a blow out valve at the bottom of the device. (a piece of tape on a dilled hole) you could add more compound per device this way as well. another idea is to reduce the size of the core to 1/2".
If you use plaster to cap it off maybe mix some rockwoll into the plaster. It is heat resistant and should help to prevent cracking. Or use only only rockwoll and put a metal screen ontop to prevent it from being ejected. It also would allow smoke to go through. And last but not least. Make 2 holes in the container (top and bottom). This way you reduce the gas velocity and backpreassure (which should help with stuff geting ejected). Some aluminium foil could be used to cover the bottom hole. It will rupture easily when the device is ignited.
A suggestion for adding the perforated tube whilst forming the cavity: if you have a length of the bottom portion the Delrin rod turned down to the length and inside diameter of the perforated tube, you can slide the tube over the rod and use the rod to ram the tube home. If you then pack the composite around the assembly before removing the rod, the uncured composite should form itself into the holes of the tube, and when it cures it'll be fixed in place.
You could drill a hole in the bottom, have the perforated tube run all the way through and plug it with a piece that intentionally fails in some way to further relieve pressure and reduce burn temps. A wad of nitrocellulose/acetone putty could act as a plug and serve as part of the ignition train. Less full combustion, less chunks flying out and more smoke for longer I would be the result if I had to guess.
For your wire hollow to prevent more chunks and maybe more heat distribution you can add a wire mesh to the bottoms and top. So during construction you could actually just put the mixture around these premade meshes and they can be enclosed or put in a way. I definitely need to try to make my own soon enough. These are the smokes I saw growing up on cod with and went to the store and was disappointed with the store ones
Our devices had portholes drilled in the shoulder or neck of the cannister and the holes (4) cover with a durable tape. It featured the same tube in the center. The cannister had a thicker neck with finer thread to prevent the striker from being ejected allowing the portholes to do the work. A balance between pressure and hole size and number of holes need to be tested to prevent it over pressure and popping it very loudly. Pressure also changes the volume, particle size and (hang time). A lot to test and many variables. Enjoy and good luck.
Great video! i imagine the tube could be modified to replace the plaster. Maybe so slits in the top to bend it outwards. Might as well be a reinforcment fpr the plaster.
A 3d printed plastic ring/wraparound fin positioned near the top of the canister could be used to force it to have the orifice angle directed upward almost no matter how it lands. If you don’t have a 3d printer I’m sure you could rig something up with plaster or gluing some metal/plastic similarly.
First video of the channel I’ve seen so might have been discussed before but might be worth looking into shaping the material to achieve different burn rates. It reminded me of solid rocket motor grain geometry.
I spent some time looking at smoke grenades a while ago and found the topic pretty disappointing. These are way better than anything I saw at the time.
The info out there is novelty GARBAGE clickbait bullshit, the good stuff is gatekept. NO IM NOT GOING TO MAKE COLORED SMOKES OUT OF melted CRAYONS YOU AHOLES. Or stupid CARDBOARD CUTOUT GRENADES USING CHIMNEY SMOKE PELLETS that cost $42 bucks for 12 shitty pellets(I actually did do that). Or grenade igniters out of paper matches and rubber bands! Have some self respect. If people are going to copy me it’s gotta be gangsta before I put it out there. It’s literally why I started on this subject. Because there was nothing out there. (And it’s the farthest I can go without breaking those pesky federal laws)
If you wanted to make many perforated tubes you could get a flat sheet of mesh and just cut, roll and tac or fold it into a bunch of tubes in a small production.
I think the trick now is to figure out how to make a bit heavier smoke so it spreads out across closer to the ground,/. Doesn’t rise up in more of a column like cloud like yours. Somehow there is a way to get that smoke to spread out over a larger area rather than just a big cloud in the sky. I guess unless you built these with intention of being more like a signal flare.
A disc of steel window screen can be used like rebar in concrete to reinforce the plaster. It could also be wrapped around the core pipe to alter burn characteristics. Vary the drilled hole sizes, their layout, and their quantity to optimize the results.
As another commenter pointed out, this is most likely burning similarly to a solid rocket motor i.e. vertically along the entire fuel grain. I recommend mixing for a slower burn, and increasing the burning surface area in a star shape for a higher initial surface area. It'll lead to a much more constant burn rate because as the grain burns it'll round out the star, meaning the total burning surface area remains relatively controlled.
Change the core to a stainless mesh that you have rolled. Roll a few wraps. When you get to the top flare the layers out so that they sit under amd flare out beyond the opening orifice. Pick a fine enough mesh that won't create to much pressure but will stop all flaming particles from leaving. Should hold up plenty as it will take the heat. Same idea as a flame arrestor on a muffler
awesome video! For the plaster ring, simple solution would be just some screen or mesh material put into the plaster to give it some tensile strength. As for the cap, maybe add a cord to it affixed to the plaster so that when it pops it doesnt fly off as a projectile?
weld an appropriate sized washer to the top of the tube before insertion to seal/close the top of the smoke mixture. Mold a bit of the material around the tube before insertion to maximize the fill.
You could improve the plaster cap by incorporating textile strips. Like they use in plaster-bandages or just strips of burlap. That should add plenty of strength without adding volume. And you might be able to further reduce the risk of accidentally setting something on fire, by leaving the top third of your perforated tube, imperforated. That should increase the path any embers or flames or small chunks would have to travel before reaching anything combustible. Just be aware that you may run into pressure problems if you leave to much unperforated, considering the volatility of your mix…
12:54 one of the best ways to ensure that you don't get any interaction with your carbonate, sleeve the fuse. You can literally use paper straws that you'll find in the discount section. I don't buy them for any other purpose😂
A rounded bottom with the weight low down could make it land "feet down" always, further reducing fire hazard. Or sticking with the cylinder shape make it imbalanced so it comes to rest at a defined point. Could angle your "exhaust pipe"upwards then.
Another sub suggestion here. Make the perforations smaller at the top and larger at the bottom. 1/4" at the top 5/16" in the middle and 1/2" at the bottom. Also You might want to limit the amount of holes at the top in smaller size if you wish the bottom to burn faster. Could also just try a lot of small holes and play with the ratio of holes along the length of the cylinder until you reach desired result! My experience is about 15 years of construction and MacGyering with my grandfathers in my youth and now into my adulthood as a Maintenance Mechanic on automated robots haha. Hope it works if ya try it! Also what @Exandria said would be very good in terms of insulation if you just put starlight in a thin coat around the canister then maybe leave some of the top rim uncovered and flex seal it all except the portion which needs to blow off. As Smokey said, Only you can prevent forest fires!
If it hasn't already been advised, intumescent putty is fairly cheap and would be easy to mold into the top of a can. Likewise, 3M Fire Barrier material would be great too, and possibly reusable. It's the same stuff they use to line furnaces...
Hope these ideas help. • less fuel, slow burn, low °F • full length perforated barrell same diameter as opening. • straight unimpeded, open ended pipe core = ½ the air displacement of the barrell. • fix core position to barrell The perf barrell to be straight on it'outside but have a vortex spiral on it's inside to assist smoke vacate quickly. Slow burning fuels or low temp burn fuels may keep the smoke lower to the ground for much longer for cover.
*1) Although fire hazard is something to be avoided, I guess.....if someone needed to pop smoke, I do not think starting a fire inadvertantly is any concern to them.* 2) Why not just try percentages of baking soda directly into the fuel mix, and find the sweet spot. Then more fuel mix can be added to the head of the burn chamber. 3) Duration of smoke is rather long. Back to the idea that someone needs smoke NOW, and as much of it possible covering as wide an area as possible...wouldn't a 3/4" burn core straight through...coupled with central ignition...cause two opposing smoke plumes twice as thick and twice as fast? *Wouldn't **_that_** be preferable to someone needing to pop smoke?* 4) Isn't it preferred to have the smoke plume ejection along the ground, rather than shooting well above line of sight? The smoke should rise anyway, so wouldn't two opposing plumes along the ground be far superior at creating a wide screening cloud? #InterestingVideos
Long duration steady release of smoke is the basic idea. Two outlets, half the duration. Not necessarily a bad thing but a tradeoff. It's probably harder to fabricate a double-ended device, and would be tricky to make it blow caps off both ends.
There is a really effective recipe to make the fuel for the smoke that doesn't involve any cooking or melting whatsoever. A RUclips channel called "Modern Rogue" did it where you just soak the ingredients' into newspaper and once they are dried billow out so much smoke
Might try epoxying a stainless steel screen in the top of the can. Kinda like a make shift spark arrestor. Cut it 1/4" larger than the opening, push it into the can, and epoxy the edges. It might help with the chunks blowing out.
Use a large thick steel washer over top of the sodium bicarb+plaster. Instead of plaster, use rock wool, or ceramic fiber, or even aerogel. You could even soak rock wool in plaster if you really want... but I'd think the baking soda with rock wool or ceramic fiber, and then a steel washer or disc about 2mm or 3mm thick, sealed along the edges of the can and the tube with a hybrid firestop sealant.
Fashion a funnel shaped piece of perforated metal, (perhaps out of sheet metal or the like) that meets flush with the top of the device, Run your fuse through the middle. That would likely work even better.
I wonder if mixing the plaster with either vermiculite, perlite, or glass fibre might help to keep it from burning. They all should be able to improve heat resistance, and I bet you could find the first two within gardening sections at some hardware stores (as they're used for soil aeration). Love the progress you're making though. I was also wondering if chucks would blow if you were able to have some sort of chicken wire wrap inside.....
A piece of fine screen shaped somewhat like a star would be more porous to the smoke at all levels and would allow the materials burning farther towards the edges to emit their smoke more evenly. The star points should reach the edge of the can and will help even out heat conductivity, in an ideal world the base of your 'star tube' would be a bit smaller on the far end, but that's a moderately complex geometry. Mixing in a small amount of a retarding mixture like baking soda will also slow the reaction slightly. Using pre-form molds you can also make individual pucks and place filler layers between them. If you can lower the temperature enough you can switch to something like piping for a more flexible design space as well.
Maybe try modeling clay or play dough to seal the top off. Does the barrel really need to be perforated? It's a little bit more work but what if you perforated a disc, the same diameter as the opening, and welded it to the top of your tube (perforated and not perforated) then use the clay, sodium bi-carb or whatever on top of that, preventing it from blowing itself or any CHUNKS bigger than the perforations. If that works, then you can try different sized perforations and go from there on further perfection. *Also wanted to add, i just subbed because of how your brain works.
Maybe if you used clay instead of plaster it would be more resistant to the heat? Another thought is to use a flat disk of steel mesh underneath the cap instead of (or in conjunction with) a tube through the center which would catch any chunks. So basically if you take the cap off, you'd see a mesh screen and you'd need to remove it in order to see the epoxy and the hole and everything.
Love your videos and DIY “smoke cans” but what if someone wanted to make colored smoke like red, green, purple and etc… is there a way to color or dye the mixture?
@jacobbachmann3194 certainly, I tested a red formulation two days ago. It worked well as a loose powder, and terrible compressed. There’s so many garbage formulas out there. Stupid shit like melting crayons 🖍️. Before I drop anything I just want to make sure it’s the best formula on the internet, and reproducible. Each color has a different composition. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxitdlk30IjcpyDUH9h2TPFfhx3Y1h4bsA?si=UUgI8nI7EpNX0l8A
Idk if it's possible with the cap design, but could you have an inverted cone that points into the vented rod, that then directs the smoke to spread into a circular side venting middle cap? So when the main one pops off, it reveals the second and it distributes it evenly in a 360 cloud around the mouth. Sorry it's hard to describe 😅
@@Fahqth pinned this as I may test this. By “vented rod” you mean hollow core right? I understand the inverted cone deflector. I don’t understand what you mean by “side venting middle cap” it’s essentially the opposite concept of a rocket engine cone
@@InventionIncarnate I've sent you an email with a quick drawing of the concept. Hope its more coherent than me attempting to explain it in writing lol only caveat i have to the idea is that ideally this cap would be sealed over the top to prevent any embers coming out, but that MAY cause pressure issues? idk, but figured it was worth suggesting.
To keep the center perforated core in the canister could you use retention rods. Two cross mounted stainless-steel rods in an X pattern like rebar in the plaster. to obtain ultimate retention
Model rocket engines also have a plaster core nozzle. However, it's made from a refractory clay mix, like fire bricks. Secondly, your little perf tube (which can be purchased commercially, pre punched) should have a welded ring baffle at the top. You are essentially trying to create a muffler design, but instead of fiberglass insulation, you are using a "smoke compound" You place that baffle ring and tube over the "mix" then seal it off with the refractory clay. Bada-bing, done!
I should add, that you could mix in the refractory slurry into the canister BEFORE the fully assembly. Create a little 3 axis "rotomold" spinny thing to allow the slurry to fully coat the inside of the can in a thin layer. This would greatly reduce the heat of the grenade on the outside, and keep it from potentially igniting things it might be touching. This is pretty much how the real smoke grenades are made and why you can hold them in your hands for a bit. It's the refractory clay.
@@TheTyler701 to be fair, these don’t provide ANY concealment haha. When he throws THREE of them on a trail and they finish smoking, you could be standing on that trail 10ft away and still see this dude. ALL of the smoke went above the tree line almost instantly making this useless as a concealment device. Great signal device though.
Finally, a smoke comp that's worth a shit. There was this video I came across years ago, a couple 20-something guys did the KNo3-based, soaked newspaper tightly rolled in AL foil. That was the best producer I have seen. but, alas, I can't seem to find that video. Definitely not from the lack of trying. I would love to find the comp for enola gaye. Thank you for the video. very informative.
A water putty would be much stronger than plaster, in Australia this is called "Agnew's Water Putty" but I'm sure there is equivalents there. This is the stuff that's used to make rocket nozzles.
use a faster set epoxy base make it a little more runny and let it cure while spinning the can. small air pockets in the mix it why it spiting chunks. I suggest using a vacuum pump to remove as air from the mixture as you can
I made some smoke compound that used potassium nitrate and powder coat powder. It was almost embarrassing how much smoke it made. A tunu fish can of it lasted over 5 min.
You know if you used a canister with a smaller opening, like just big enough for your screen tube to fit, you could save time and cost by not having to mix and pour the plaster cap. It will also be a more reliable way to prevent flaming chunks from flying out.
Aight most likely, someone already has to have mentioned this, but heck, had fun watching the vid, so why not try to chip in. Have you considered that a smaller exit hole may be creating a stronger Venturi effect, and thus the need to put the rod inside 'cause otherwise those chunks would get sucked outta the can? Yep that's right, they're not flying off due to explosion, but due to the higher exit speed produced by the velocity increase generated by said effect. And there's also the Bernouilli effect. Same effects that put planes in the air 🙂 This one will cause pressure biases, causing smoke spill inconsistencies unless the perforated tube's perfectly centered. Summarized as I could to avoid the "read more" line. Cheers.
I’m an inventor/innovator myself. I somehow never gain any attention on this forum probably because I’m more focused on helping people than production quality. I make flamethrowers and other things that isn’t perfectly legal farming equipment. Etc. my focus is keeping the independence of the individual alive and well. Like the infamous recipe book that is now contraband literature. I’m eidedic so I remember all the stuff they’re trying to force people to forget how to make problems I have are the lack of materials and government trade stamps because I’m actively being suppressed financially attacked and silenced.
Silicone is fairly flame-retardant. A properly molded and sized silicone exit orifice would produce a continuous fart noise the entire time this device goes off. This is a bad idea and you should do it. I expect it to not improve performance of the device in any way.
It has been done: ruclips.net/video/wlJqJsQzkiQ/видео.html
@@InventionIncarnate I love it. Probably needs an expansion chamber before the orifice to work like a whoopie cushion instead of a 40mm recoilless fleshlight munition. Either way, should be entertaining.
@@InventionIncarnate its going to be heartbreaking if we don't get to experience that in the next video.
Genius
V or funnel shape screen instead of tube would allow more smoke mix, allow more smoke escape and block hole from blow out if you can’t bend it a holding pin would work or fart valve.
Hey, remember that time when the FBI used tear gas rounds on a dry wooden structure and claimed they totally didn't start a massive fire that incinerated and killed 76 people, including 28 children? Pepperidge Farm remembers, House Mormont remembers........
I remember.
The North remembers
And then posed with their rifles infront of still smoldering corpses, yep totally didnt happen.
Member berries member
The world still remembers..
Serious recommendation:
There is a RUclipsr who recreated starlite: a fire suppression and thermal resistant compound.
The youtubers name is “NighthawkInLight”
Its super easy to make.
As it burns, it bubbles and off gasses CO2. a thin layer is an INCREDIBLE insulator. You can use this to coat a can and it WILL NOT burn anything it touches.
As a demonstration, he took a thin sheet of it in his hand and held a propane torch for his hand for a minute. Hand was completely fine.
Aaah NightHawkInLight. Haven’t heard that name in a while.
@@thebattlefieldproject6013 he is still active, makes some cool expriments with sky cooling fibers and paints
Love his stuff for a while now
An excellent RUclips channel
one of the best yt pyros
Very interesting video!
Not sure if this was discussed before but i would suggest mixing baking soda directly into the pyrotechnic mixture. What this will do is slow down the reaction speed and potentially reduce fire hazard.
Depending on the mix it may also help produce more smoke because the added CO2 will reduce the flame
test these for no other reason than for the cool montage
this is how you can turn rocket candy into a smoke bomb....it works surprisingly well and i think this guy should do a side by side weight to smoke comparison
Those smoke grenades definitely need some baking soda mixed in with the mixture. It will also stop the flames. Also, the top of the smoke grenade flying off could cause issues. No one wants a piece of the smoke grenade flying at them. I suggest a small empty space with a screen and holes drilled in the top or bottom. The holes should let the gasses excape, while keeping the smoke grenade whole.
can we get chemical ingredients like that for smoke here in Slovenia?
I should have expected to see you here, but wow you get around man. Props!
Dude you are at the forefront of civilian market innovation. Keep up the great work.
Those look better than any of the homemade smoke grenades I've seen online, and comparable to the Army issued ones I used to use. An obvious difference is that the military smoke grenades have a tape covered hole in the bottom that the smoke comes out of, and they don't pop the fuse out during use. Perhaps instead of putting plaster in them, you could put a ½-¾" hole in the center of the bottom and try to secure the caps better, perhaps with Loctite or an adhesive that weakens once it gets really hot, so that it won't pop off right away, but will be removable after use.
We need a large version like the old school 25 pound smoke pots we used to have. You could set them on each other and the top pot would automatically ignite the next one. We used to smoke out whole valleys.
Keep up the great work.
Copper is very malleable. Plumbers have tools for "flaring" copper tubing to expand one end of the tube. Suggest that you flare the end of the copper tube so that it bends and seals in the top to also stop chunks from being ejected. You can use some other sealant to hold it together or a crude metal snap ring that holds the flared copper tube in place.
@@MrFugasi I 2nd to flaring the copper
This is what I was going to suggest. A flared cone with some sort of snap ring to hold it. Perforate the cone with smaller holes and leave the core holes the size they are.
@@MrFugasi we call it swaging
Great idea, sealing the perforated tube to the opening will have a better effect than the plaster.
@@MrFugasi = best idea if you think about it it would solve multiple problems if you could flare the top enough or if you could weld a mesh ring to the chimney when you press it in you would be installing the mesh ring at the same time and give it something to hang on to or even better snap ring it on after putting them together would also keep the chimney in but also mesh is plaster would make it stronger like rebar in concrete and then mesh in silicon would add all the best ideas together so you get that long ripping fart noise for no reason what so ever!
If you want your smoke to stay low to the ground. I know that tech ingredients has some videos on them where they’ve experimented with paraffin and their smoke stays real low. May be hard to bring your compositions together though
@@ParalyzedPotato7 stearic acid could work too. I think it’s the humidity because the smoke behavior is highly variable
@@InventionIncarnate
it being variable lessens it's use for tactical concealment.
I think that making the smoke heaver is a primary objective.
13:21 I think the can needs a smoke and a cuddle after that! 🤣
you must give your local fire department a heart attack lmao, very good video format
this acts exactly like a solid rocket motor. research into the field of modal rocketry will be aplicable in your current endeavor.
Anyways the entire surface of the inside cylinder will be under combustion.
It will not just burn from the bottom or the top, the flame front travels to all exposed fuel.
And your worries of it being filtered by the ash is overblown, don't fixate on it.
much luck on the next iteration.
-jeb
@@jebkermen6087 Excellent point, I came here to say something similar. The circular center shaft will have a constantly increasing burn rate (burns faster as time passes), which gets hotter and may lead to unwanted embers and higher smoke temperature.
It would be interesting to see how a narrow central cavity (like an oval) affects the burn rate and smoke intensity.
Also there are lots of resources available covering different cavity designs for solid rocket motors.
morton thiokol....WHUT!!! LOL
Dude! The vibrator and Carmen-ish audio has me ROFL. Love your videos and appreciate all of your hard work and detail.
You could put a screen wire ring in the plaster to hold it together better.
@@thehairs2018dude.
@@thehairs2018 that’s
@@thehairs2018 effin’
@@thehairs2018 genius!
@@thehairs2018 thank you
Hey, @invention incarnate
You could use a big washer just big enough to fit your canister hole size, but with a center hole small enough to prevent your perforated tube from coming out. Then go to the hardware store and get a snap ring that just bigger than the washer (they will have them at parts stores and hardware stores) the snap ring should prevent the washer from being able to come out because of the tapered neck/and or the threads of the neck. You could also drill smaller holes through the washer so it helps prevent it from acting like a rocket.
Omg the "chunk.... o no another chunk" got me good.
You might be the one person who would benefit from adding steel wool to his plaster of paris. It doesn't do me any good when my buddy adds it to foundries and lowers our maximum temperature but it might solve your cracking in this situation considering the reactions cold enough it did it totally slag that copper tube. You making me want to take a gander down the plumbing aisle though to see what has a flat base and that three quarters inch pipe traveling the whole way through so that way you could have a drop in one piece metal solution for your so-called chimney. You got me saving soup cans and weird glue again
i was going to suggest steel wool instead of the perforated tube!
@@ethandye8764 that may clog like a filter
@@ArtichokeMoss true, you would not need very much of it though, im not sure it would be more effective than reinforced plaster
At that point he might as well use refractory. Its basically what your suggesting but designed for forge tempatures. AKA: 3,000 degrees F
@@mygirlfriendbeatsme great for forges, used it, too delicate for a throwable cloud
Been a pleasure to follow your creative endeavors! Hopefully one day you will be able to make a killing manufacturing and selling these in mass!
You are essentially making slow-burning solid fuel rockets, but without compression. If you restrict the nozzle more you will either create a rocket and see it flying or a bomb.
Taking that into account, I'd apply some lessons I learned from making rockets.
* add a liner to the can before filling it, something like fireplace sealant. Just brushing it in 2 coats should be enough, or you could fill and pour it out. It prevents heat from passing through the metal can and lighting shit on fire, it also protects the metal against most of the heat.
* make your fuel pourable, when you pack it like that it's probably filled with air bubbles in between chunks that heat up and explode, causing the chunks to fly out. Pouring it means smaller air bubbles and you can vibrate to get rid of most of them. Also allows better control of how much fuel you are adding exactly.
* Increase the center hole chimney by 50% and use a proper steel pipe, not just a broom handle, this will make things safer and lower pressure, at the cost of only a little less fuel. almost half your fuel in weight is the outer 10% of the content of the can.
* You could probably benefit from adding some kind of liner between the fuel and the pipe. Fireplace sealant works, but you don't want the liner to block the holes, so probably paint the pipe with the liner before you assemble everything.
* only perforate the bottom half of the chimney pipe, you don't want the top to burn, you want it to burn bottom up. Holes in the middle and top are igniting your fuel all around, you can see this in the video, this creates a short, hot and messy burn. Probably burning some of your smoke into carbon before it leaves the can.
* make an actual cap of burn-safe material, like fireplace sealant with rockwool that both keeps the metal tube in place once hardened, and prevents the fuel from combusting from the top. Make sure you dont block the tube with this.
Hi, I have a couple ideas that I believe are worth investigating. First, try using the finely perforated center tubes found in automotive oil filters. The fine perforations should decrease the “chunk” events to minimal levels and may even offer protection from the fuel surrounding the tube from ignition by the primer thus allowing a more optimal bottom to top fuel burn. The finely perforated tube could also theoretically control the rate of smoke released due to higher resistance for fluids to flow through 100+ small orifices vs 10-15 open circles, which should help keep more heat within the system, which could culminate in greater burn efficiency resulting in either elongated burn times or producing more smoke overall. I would suggest a large capacity oil filter for a diesel truck as they would have the longest tubes for you to use.
Second, solid fuel rockets often mold the fuel with a star pattern center channel to increase fuel surface area and to promote a more equal burn rate. If I remember correctly, the star pattern also helps protect the fuel column from pre-igniting before its proper time in the ideal bottom to top fuel burn.
I honestly wish I could test these ideas myself but would be very intrigued to hear your findings if you include these in your next smoke canister video. Thanks for considering!
Oh almost forgot, my original thought is to use something resembling a rack and pinion gear mounted to the rod you use to create the center hole to create the star pattern.
Looks awesome, definitely a more advanced method. Super-easy smoke bomb... newspaper (can be hard to source these days:):) and ammonium nitrate from a cold pack or Tannerite. Mix the AN into some water, get the newspaper wet with it. Hang the paper up to dry. Roll it up around a "Whistling Peet" , a sparkler, or come up with another method of lighting it internally. Puts out an insane amount of smoke.
@@SunriseLAW wdym wrap it around a whistling peet? Around the plastic mortar or is there something im not getting?
@@botston A firecracker with the bottom plug pulled out works great. For some reason, WP''s are available in a lot of places that don't allow firecrackers. The objective is to introduce a lot of heat into the rolled up, AN-infused newspaper. Telling you: when done right, the results are as good as the stuff in the video.
@@botston Funny because it took me a moment. First thing I ever did with WP's was toss the plastic and modify the wp... I forgot about that part! OK, bonus: homemade napalm. about 8 parts Styrofoam, 1 part gasoline. Lots of Smiles Per Gallon (SPG)
I just found your channel and appreciate your continued efforts and time. Thank you . I wonder if instead of plaster you could use refractory cement for the cap ? Plaster becomes brittle with extreme heat and the pressure inside the canister is enough to spall the plaster. I believe you can buy refractory cement in a calking tube to make it easier. The tube is used for fireplaces and wood stoves.
Loxeal 4401
2 part, semi flexible, high temperature epoxy adhesive.
I think you can also get moldable 2 part ceramics.
This is going to be better than plaster, there are many things out there to do this job.
Great job man. This design has really come along and is fantastic.
Your voice got very high pitched when the vibrator came out 😂
Awesome project! Thank you for taking us all through your discovery process!
It's seldom the invention, but rather the innovation that makes an idea timeless
Excellent scientific research. The way real innovators invent. Great video. HT🤙🇺🇸
Try packing the mixture into the can with a fixture like they use to make rockets or strobes. This should remove the need to put the bicarbonate in to take up dead space. Place the perforated tube inside the can and then use a tightish fitting dowel to occlude the inside of the tube. Remove the dowel after the can is tightly packed. If you’re having trouble with the mixture compacting, you can probably use paraffin as a binder. You’ll need to melt the wax and add the mixture to it then sufficiently mix it into a paste.
You could also use a card stock sleeve to block off the upper holes. Get the paper thickness right and it will burn away when the holes are reached.
The real M18 also has a hole in the bottom. It may help relieve the internal pressure spikes and could be sealed with wax paper glued to the bottom of the can.
If you want to reduce the outside temperature of the canister, why not coat the inside with the same plaster you used on the top? It would detract from the total volume of compound that you can place inside, but depending on the thickness of the plaster layer, it could be reduced from red hot to warm or even cool to the touch while active.
Side note:
The plaster you used is a powder, but you may be able to find one that can be made into a liquid, which would make for a much simpler coating process.
1. Mix plaster.
2. Pour a small amount into the canister.
3. Cover.
4. Roll until thoroughly coated.
5. Cure.
6. Repeat until desired thickness is achieved.
(I don't know anything about pyrotechnics)
Add a 1 1/2” washer areound the 3/4” tube while adding a series of 1/8” holes around the cap. This should in theory resolve the cap pop off, increase volume and eliminate flaming chunks.
Maybe steel wool in the top 25% of the 3/4” tube to assist in filtering off ejecta.
Add sodium Bicarbonate to the smoke mixture, this should reduce temp, slow the burn... I am guessing it may keep the smoke closer to the ground longer as well... awesome project!!!
cooler smoke, lower cloud. hotter smoke, higher cloud. so yes, correct.
Try wrapping the fuse in several layers of aluminum foil to keep it from igniting anything early. They do this on many fireworks.
the animations were really good!
both in quality and in educational value!
A few ideas to try, you can weld the 3/4" core tube to the cap, perforate only the top portion, just above the compound fill line. the fuse will ignite the compound on the top but the smoke will travel along the center core to a blow out valve at the bottom of the device. (a piece of tape on a dilled hole) you could add more compound per device this way as well. another idea is to reduce the size of the core to 1/2".
If you use plaster to cap it off maybe mix some rockwoll into the plaster. It is heat resistant and should help to prevent cracking. Or use only only rockwoll and put a metal screen ontop to prevent it from being ejected. It also would allow smoke to go through. And last but not least. Make 2 holes in the container (top and bottom). This way you reduce the gas velocity and backpreassure (which should help with stuff geting ejected). Some aluminium foil could be used to cover the bottom hole. It will rupture easily when the device is ignited.
A suggestion for adding the perforated tube whilst forming the cavity: if you have a length of the bottom portion the Delrin rod turned down to the length and inside diameter of the perforated tube, you can slide the tube over the rod and use the rod to ram the tube home. If you then pack the composite around the assembly before removing the rod, the uncured composite should form itself into the holes of the tube, and when it cures it'll be fixed in place.
You could drill a hole in the bottom, have the perforated tube run all the way through and plug it with a piece that intentionally fails in some way to further relieve pressure and reduce burn temps. A wad of nitrocellulose/acetone putty could act as a plug and serve as part of the ignition train.
Less full combustion, less chunks flying out and more smoke for longer I would be the result if I had to guess.
For your wire hollow to prevent more chunks and maybe more heat distribution you can add a wire mesh to the bottoms and top. So during construction you could actually just put the mixture around these premade meshes and they can be enclosed or put in a way. I definitely need to try to make my own soon enough. These are the smokes I saw growing up on cod with and went to the store and was disappointed with the store ones
Our devices had portholes drilled in the shoulder or neck of the cannister and the holes (4) cover with a durable tape. It featured the same tube in the center. The cannister had a thicker neck with finer thread to prevent the striker from being ejected allowing the portholes to do the work. A balance between pressure and hole size and number of holes need to be tested to prevent it over pressure and popping it very loudly. Pressure also changes the volume, particle size and (hang time). A lot to test and many variables. Enjoy and good luck.
Great video! i imagine the tube could be modified to replace the plaster. Maybe so slits in the top to bend it outwards. Might as well be a reinforcment fpr the plaster.
Nice, RUclips recommendations got me to learn how to make "IEDs" 😀
I was not expecting the special vibrating tool to make an appearance.
A 3d printed plastic ring/wraparound fin positioned near the top of the canister could be used to force it to have the orifice angle directed upward almost no matter how it lands.
If you don’t have a 3d printer I’m sure you could rig something up with plaster or gluing some metal/plastic similarly.
Clearly an excellent device and design, even as it's a work in progress.
First video of the channel I’ve seen so might have been discussed before but might be worth looking into shaping the material to achieve different burn rates. It reminded me of solid rocket motor grain geometry.
I need to download this videos just in case
I spent some time looking at smoke grenades a while ago and found the topic pretty disappointing. These are way better than anything I saw at the time.
The info out there is novelty GARBAGE clickbait bullshit, the good stuff is gatekept. NO IM NOT GOING TO MAKE COLORED SMOKES OUT OF melted CRAYONS YOU AHOLES. Or stupid CARDBOARD CUTOUT GRENADES USING CHIMNEY SMOKE PELLETS that cost $42 bucks for 12 shitty pellets(I actually did do that). Or grenade igniters out of paper matches and rubber bands! Have some self respect. If people are going to copy me it’s gotta be gangsta before I put it out there.
It’s literally why I started on this subject. Because there was nothing out there. (And it’s the farthest I can go without breaking those pesky federal laws)
If you wanted to make many perforated tubes you could get a flat sheet of mesh and just cut, roll and tac or fold it into a bunch of tubes in a small production.
I think the trick now is to figure out how to make a bit heavier smoke so it spreads out across closer to the ground,/. Doesn’t rise up in more of a column like cloud like yours. Somehow there is a way to get that smoke to spread out over a larger area rather than just a big cloud in the sky. I guess unless you built these with intention of being more like a signal flare.
A disc of steel window screen can be used like rebar in concrete to reinforce the plaster. It could also be wrapped around the core pipe to alter burn characteristics. Vary the drilled hole sizes, their layout, and their quantity to optimize the results.
As another commenter pointed out, this is most likely burning similarly to a solid rocket motor i.e. vertically along the entire fuel grain. I recommend mixing for a slower burn, and increasing the burning surface area in a star shape for a higher initial surface area. It'll lead to a much more constant burn rate because as the grain burns it'll round out the star, meaning the total burning surface area remains relatively controlled.
Change the core to a stainless mesh that you have rolled. Roll a few wraps. When you get to the top flare the layers out so that they sit under amd flare out beyond the opening orifice. Pick a fine enough mesh that won't create to much pressure but will stop all flaming particles from leaving. Should hold up plenty as it will take the heat. Same idea as a flame arrestor on a muffler
awesome video! For the plaster ring, simple solution would be just some screen or mesh material put into the plaster to give it some tensile strength. As for the cap, maybe add a cord to it affixed to the plaster so that when it pops it doesnt fly off as a projectile?
Wow! That's so fun!
That's what she said, too.
weld an appropriate sized washer to the top of the tube before insertion to seal/close the top of the smoke mixture. Mold a bit of the material around the tube before insertion to maximize the fill.
You could improve the plaster cap by incorporating textile strips. Like they use in plaster-bandages or just strips of burlap.
That should add plenty of strength without adding volume.
And you might be able to further reduce the risk of accidentally setting something on fire, by leaving the top third of your perforated tube, imperforated. That should increase the path any embers or flames or small chunks would have to travel before reaching anything combustible.
Just be aware that you may run into pressure problems if you leave to much unperforated, considering the volatility of your mix…
Chuckin clumps, Chuckin clouds, & Chuckin knowledge!!
Man. This is so effing awesome. I'd feel myself like a batman by using them after possible altercation. Absolutely needed next to the mags.
12:54 one of the best ways to ensure that you don't get any interaction with your carbonate, sleeve the fuse. You can literally use paper straws that you'll find in the discount section. I don't buy them for any other purpose😂
A rounded bottom with the weight low down could make it land "feet down" always, further reducing fire hazard. Or sticking with the cylinder shape make it imbalanced so it comes to rest at a defined point. Could angle your "exhaust pipe"upwards then.
Another sub suggestion here. Make the perforations smaller at the top and larger at the bottom. 1/4" at the top 5/16" in the middle and 1/2" at the bottom. Also You might want to limit the amount of holes at the top in smaller size if you wish the bottom to burn faster. Could also just try a lot of small holes and play with the ratio of holes along the length of the cylinder until you reach desired result!
My experience is about 15 years of construction and MacGyering with my grandfathers in my youth and now into my adulthood as a Maintenance Mechanic on automated robots haha. Hope it works if ya try it!
Also what @Exandria said would be very good in terms of insulation if you just put starlight in a thin coat around the canister then maybe leave some of the top rim uncovered and flex seal it all except the portion which needs to blow off.
As Smokey said, Only you can prevent forest fires!
If it hasn't already been advised, intumescent putty is fairly cheap and would be easy to mold into the top of a can. Likewise, 3M Fire Barrier material would be great too, and possibly reusable. It's the same stuff they use to line furnaces...
I think a heavy screen or hardware cloth would do the trick too and a lot cheaper and easier.
Hope these ideas help.
• less fuel, slow burn, low °F
• full length perforated barrell same diameter as opening.
• straight unimpeded, open ended pipe core = ½ the air displacement of the barrell.
• fix core position to barrell
The perf barrell to be straight on it'outside but have a vortex spiral on it's inside to assist smoke vacate quickly.
Slow burning fuels or low temp burn fuels may keep the smoke lower to the ground for much longer for cover.
*1) Although fire hazard is something to be avoided, I guess.....if someone needed to pop smoke, I do not think starting a fire inadvertantly is any concern to them.*
2) Why not just try percentages of baking soda directly into the fuel mix, and find the sweet spot. Then more fuel mix can be added to the head of the burn chamber.
3) Duration of smoke is rather long. Back to the idea that someone needs smoke NOW, and as much of it possible covering as wide an area as possible...wouldn't a 3/4" burn core straight through...coupled with central ignition...cause two opposing smoke plumes twice as thick and twice as fast? *Wouldn't **_that_** be preferable to someone needing to pop smoke?*
4) Isn't it preferred to have the smoke plume ejection along the ground, rather than shooting well above line of sight? The smoke should rise anyway, so wouldn't two opposing plumes along the ground be far superior at creating a wide screening cloud? #InterestingVideos
let him cook
If you are downwind in a dry area not starting a fire is extremely important.
@@NacnudTheGreat
*I actually think he's secure enough to cook AND converse.*
@@LupusMechanicus
We can disagree on how important. To each his own.
Long duration steady release of smoke is the basic idea. Two outlets, half the duration. Not necessarily a bad thing but a tradeoff. It's probably harder to fabricate a double-ended device, and would be tricky to make it blow caps off both ends.
There is a really effective recipe to make the fuel for the smoke that doesn't involve any cooking or melting whatsoever. A RUclips channel called "Modern Rogue" did it where you just soak the ingredients' into newspaper and once they are dried billow out so much smoke
Child’s play.
Might try epoxying a stainless steel screen in the top of the can. Kinda like a make shift spark arrestor. Cut it 1/4" larger than the opening, push it into the can, and epoxy the edges. It might help with the chunks blowing out.
Use a large thick steel washer over top of the sodium bicarb+plaster. Instead of plaster, use rock wool, or ceramic fiber, or even aerogel. You could even soak rock wool in plaster if you really want... but I'd think the baking soda with rock wool or ceramic fiber, and then a steel washer or disc about 2mm or 3mm thick, sealed along the edges of the can and the tube with a hybrid firestop sealant.
I don't think the perfect family exists but wow you guys come close, good work on pertecting the woman. I'm proud of you
Fashion a funnel shaped piece of perforated metal, (perhaps out of sheet metal or the like) that meets flush with the top of the device, Run your fuse through the middle. That would likely work even better.
I wonder if mixing the plaster with either vermiculite, perlite, or glass fibre might help to keep it from burning. They all should be able to improve heat resistance, and I bet you could find the first two within gardening sections at some hardware stores (as they're used for soil aeration). Love the progress you're making though. I was also wondering if chucks would blow if you were able to have some sort of chicken wire wrap inside.....
A piece of fine screen shaped somewhat like a star would be more porous to the smoke at all levels and would allow the materials burning farther towards the edges to emit their smoke more evenly. The star points should reach the edge of the can and will help even out heat conductivity, in an ideal world the base of your 'star tube' would be a bit smaller on the far end, but that's a moderately complex geometry. Mixing in a small amount of a retarding mixture like baking soda will also slow the reaction slightly. Using pre-form molds you can also make individual pucks and place filler layers between them. If you can lower the temperature enough you can switch to something like piping for a more flexible design space as well.
Oh yeah, I'm deff on the watchlist now😂
I just found this channel bc the algo blessed me this day
Maybe try modeling clay or play dough to seal the top off. Does the barrel really need to be perforated? It's a little bit more work but what if you perforated a disc, the same diameter as the opening, and welded it to the top of your tube (perforated and not perforated) then use the clay, sodium bi-carb or whatever on top of that, preventing it from blowing itself or any CHUNKS bigger than the perforations. If that works, then you can try different sized perforations and go from there on further perfection. *Also wanted to add, i just subbed because of how your brain works.
Try a finer mesh to stop the burning embers shooting out. Between a screen door and a metal coffee filter.
Maybe if you used clay instead of plaster it would be more resistant to the heat?
Another thought is to use a flat disk of steel mesh underneath the cap instead of (or in conjunction with) a tube through the center which would catch any chunks. So basically if you take the cap off, you'd see a mesh screen and you'd need to remove it in order to see the epoxy and the hole and everything.
Love your videos and DIY “smoke cans” but what if someone wanted to make colored smoke like red, green, purple and etc… is there a way to color or dye the mixture?
@jacobbachmann3194 certainly, I tested a red formulation two days ago. It worked well as a loose powder, and terrible compressed. There’s so many garbage formulas out there. Stupid shit like melting crayons 🖍️. Before I drop anything I just want to make sure it’s the best formula on the internet, and reproducible. Each color has a different composition. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxitdlk30IjcpyDUH9h2TPFfhx3Y1h4bsA?si=UUgI8nI7EpNX0l8A
The channel Tech Ingredients did a series on colored and scented smoke
To prevent sparks exiting, you could use stainless steel mesh as both the centre tube and a cap that stays in place while burning.
The “okay good bye I love you” at the end caught me by surprise and made me lol irl.
McMaster sells perforated stainless steel sheet. I've used it to fabricate muffler cores and baffles. It would be perfect for your center tubes.
Idk if it's possible with the cap design, but could you have an inverted cone that points into the vented rod, that then directs the smoke to spread into a circular side venting middle cap? So when the main one pops off, it reveals the second and it distributes it evenly in a 360 cloud around the mouth.
Sorry it's hard to describe 😅
@@Fahqth pinned this as I may test this. By “vented rod” you mean hollow core right? I understand the inverted cone deflector. I don’t understand what you mean by “side venting middle cap” it’s essentially the opposite concept of a rocket engine cone
@@InventionIncarnate I've sent you an email with a quick drawing of the concept. Hope its more coherent than me attempting to explain it in writing lol
only caveat i have to the idea is that ideally this cap would be sealed over the top to prevent any embers coming out, but that MAY cause pressure issues? idk, but figured it was worth suggesting.
@@Fahqth awesome thank you
To keep the center perforated core in the canister could you use retention rods. Two cross mounted stainless-steel rods in an X pattern like rebar in the plaster. to obtain ultimate retention
Good to finally see the subs fighting back against the doms, god speed.
Model rocket engines also have a plaster core nozzle. However, it's made from a refractory clay mix, like fire bricks. Secondly, your little perf tube (which can be purchased commercially, pre punched) should have a welded ring baffle at the top. You are essentially trying to create a muffler design, but instead of fiberglass insulation, you are using a "smoke compound"
You place that baffle ring and tube over the "mix" then seal it off with the refractory clay. Bada-bing, done!
I should add, that you could mix in the refractory slurry into the canister BEFORE the fully assembly. Create a little 3 axis "rotomold" spinny thing to allow the slurry to fully coat the inside of the can in a thin layer. This would greatly reduce the heat of the grenade on the outside, and keep it from potentially igniting things it might be touching. This is pretty much how the real smoke grenades are made and why you can hold them in your hands for a bit. It's the refractory clay.
This is the youtube channel I've always looking for.. Thankyou for the free instruction, i will definitely subscribe to your channel ❤
Wouldn’t twin vent be better for concealment? While it may not burn as long, it shoots in both directions for a better overall fog screen.
@@TheTyler701 to be fair, these don’t provide ANY concealment haha. When he throws THREE of them on a trail and they finish smoking, you could be standing on that trail 10ft away and still see this dude. ALL of the smoke went above the tree line almost instantly making this useless as a concealment device. Great signal device though.
Finally, a smoke comp that's worth a shit. There was this video I came across years ago, a couple 20-something guys did the KNo3-based, soaked newspaper tightly rolled in AL foil. That was the best producer I have seen. but, alas, I can't seem to find that video. Definitely not from the lack of trying. I would love to find the comp for enola gaye. Thank you for the video. very informative.
Maybe you mean 'kas rookbom' it's from some netherland dudes. In german it's called "kalkammonsalpeter"
Hope you can now find more on RUclips.
A water putty would be much stronger than plaster, in Australia this is called "Agnew's Water Putty" but I'm sure there is equivalents there. This is the stuff that's used to make rocket nozzles.
Add fiberglass to the Plaster GRF like used in concrete.
use a faster set epoxy base make it a little more runny and let it cure while spinning the can. small air pockets in the mix it why it spiting chunks.
I suggest using a vacuum pump to remove as air from the mixture as you can
I made some smoke compound that used potassium nitrate and powder coat powder. It was almost embarrassing how much smoke it made. A tunu fish can of it lasted over 5 min.
Have you tried mixing a chopped fiberglass fiber flox to the plaster cap mix to maintain it’s integrity under pressure? Just a thought…
Open a 5/8 hole on the bottom, and cover it with a pringles can lid. let it vent out that way
Love this channel. Keep up the great work.
You know if you used a canister with a smaller opening, like just big enough for your screen tube to fit, you could save time and cost by not having to mix and pour the plaster cap. It will also be a more reliable way to prevent flaming chunks from flying out.
*oh no... Another chunk...* 🤣 I'm dead
Aight most likely, someone already has to have mentioned this, but heck, had fun watching the vid, so why not try to chip in. Have you considered that a smaller exit hole may be creating a stronger Venturi effect, and thus the need to put the rod inside 'cause otherwise those chunks would get sucked outta the can? Yep that's right, they're not flying off due to explosion, but due to the higher exit speed produced by the velocity increase generated by said effect. And there's also the Bernouilli effect. Same effects that put planes in the air 🙂 This one will cause pressure biases, causing smoke spill inconsistencies unless the perforated tube's perfectly centered. Summarized as I could to avoid the "read more" line. Cheers.
I’m an inventor/innovator myself. I somehow never gain any attention on this forum probably because I’m more focused on helping people than production quality. I make flamethrowers and other things that isn’t perfectly legal farming equipment. Etc. my focus is keeping the independence of the individual alive and well. Like the infamous recipe book that is now contraband literature. I’m eidedic so I remember all the stuff they’re trying to force people to forget how to make problems I have are the lack of materials and government trade stamps because I’m actively being suppressed financially attacked and silenced.
You could also add a second opening at the bottom of the device for the gas to escape, just seal it with a sticker or something