I came across your videos 3 years ago and I thought I’d like to give that a try! Went to my local peterbilt, got a few zephyr buffs and rouge bars, threw it on my trusty harbor freight grinder, and started polishing on the truck I was driving at the time… I was hooked the first time I got some shine to come thru. 3 years later I still refer to your videos for advise and tips, your truly an inspiration Evan! Keep killin the game 🤘🏼
I admire someone who is honest and humble! If you think you don't know what you're doing... well, that makes me appreciate you even, or Evan more. lol... I just started to airway buff my metal art projects (before cutting them out). After days of buffing the same piece, and having lots of hash marks, not to mention sanding marks thinking I could just muscle buff them out, I truly respect the effort it takes to do this kind of work! It's gritty, dirty and I hope someday rewarding. I'm making a mess of the whole garage. I frequently stop to blow off and ventilate the area. I get my cold rolled mild steel from a junk/recycle yard, and it has a lot of scratches and mill glaze, not to mention warped. I started the current piece with 35 grit sandpaper from harbor fright. It held up amazing well for Al oxide. I only sanded to 240 grit and then tried airway buffing. I got the new Makita 9237 model and an American Shine kit from Zephyr. It's going ok I guess. The results are more even than disc sanding and scotchbrite buffing. I will continue to watch your vids and hone my skills. Thanks for making these informative videos.
Thank you for your thoughtful reflection on your metal art projects and the challenges you've encountered during the buffing process. It’s inspiring to hear about your dedication to honing your skills and the respect you have for the craft. If you’re looking to elevate your results further, I encourage you to explore our Time2Shine product line, which is specifically designed to enhance the finishing process and may provide the efficiency and quality you seek. You can check them out at www.goshineon.com. We appreciate your commitment to learning and your support for my videos-wishing you continued success in your artistic endeavors!
Thanks man. I just started watching your videos. I watch lots from other guys, my favourite part about yours is you always say this is what works best for me and not this is the only way. So thanks for your honesty and you really spend the time to show the difference between everything. I really appreciate it. Thanks
Thank you for watching. I believe there are many ways to accomplish desired results. I just try to pass on information that I wish I had when I started out. I just want to help others. Appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Another banger video 🤙 Never be sorry man, Sharing your learnings is so appreciated no matter the quality of the filming!!! I work in the oil and gas industry and they are heavy into Safety in Australia. Is there any chance you could do a video on your learnings, experiences or heard of others bad experiences where polishing can go wrong ? 21.57 jam packed video of quality information, You know we watched all the way to the end!!! Thank you
Evan I’m sure you would know but on the skinny red buff for Peterbilt step’s you also mentioned using it for motorcycle finned cylinder head’s! I was taught by a shop teacher back in the 70’s you should not polish the finned head or cylinder port’s unless the engine is water cooled that they are rough to be able to catch wind for cooling? As I said you probably know this! But if it’s on a show bike that doesn’t run long enough to get hot it probably wouldn’t matter.
This is what I’ve been looking for. I’m JUST getting into this. I bought a kit from Amazon and I want to learn. You do classes ? I’m in min Minneapolis. IM guessing you’re in like Arizona lol.
I am in Wisconsin and I do offer classes both in person and online. You can access my online class from here. If you would like more information you can email me Evan@goshineon.com. Thanks for watching! Welcome to the world of polishing.
Mr Steger, can you please tell me how to get the cloudiness out of billet aluminum radiator overflow tanks? I have 2 on my f150 Harley Davidsom edition show truck and for the life of me i cannot polish them with wool or foam without them getting cloudy, PLEASE, PLEASE, tell me how and what i need to buy from you to polish them mirror shiny. Thanks.
10 and 12" wheels are always my go to ive yet to burn a grinder up yet but i maintenance them frequency. great video btw Evan, i used to always run a matchless orange/yellow buff but ive switched to there blue buff for cutting recently and it cuts quite a bit cleaner than a orange or a orange/yellow just a bit slower of a cut but i find its worth it since you save time on the color and finish steps. i never knew buffs from california where water dipped makes sense to me now why my zephyr buffs i used to use where terrible.
Which buffs do you recommend for smooth headache racks? Hasn’t seen polish in a year or longer, pretty rough. Just need it to look decent and trying to avoid the zebra lines that I keep getting. I started with a yellow buff and brown bar.
Zebra lines come from overlap and pressure issues. Doesn't really have anything to do with the buff itself honestly. Not sure if this makes sense but I'll have some videos this winter explaining it.
Thank you for the fast response. Any advice on how to fix them? Recutting with the same buff made them a little less noticeable but they’re still visible. Do you think using a stiffer buff or Should I sand with 600 and recut and try to take more time and be more consistent?
Yeah, it’s a clients and it looks terrible since I buffed on it. It was bad before but now it looks worse. Kinda stressed out because I’m having a hard time fixing it.
I ended up going back over everything, focused on my pressure and the overlapping. Took my time and it turned out much better. Thank you for the input.
@@markhutchinson4222 why do you say that? Only asking because I’m completely new to polishing and was actually just about to place a large order with renegade...
I have a question for you. I use an orange and brown, and I have a green with my green. Now my question is why does my green leave a lot of black residue? I raked the buff and it still did it. Can u help. Thank you
What brand of compound are you using? Could be a long list of reasons why it is turning black. Green is a pickier compound. If the metal is pitted and not smooth it will turn black. Humidity or temperature can also be a factor. Applying too much or not enough compound can be an issue.
I am not a fan of the harbor freight grinders and their lack of torque and the inconvenience of the constant break down and replacement procedure. But that is a personal preference for me and considering the closest harbor freight is 30 minutes away is a real inconvenience for me. My time is far more valuable using better quality machines and I ensure better results with consistency of the machine.
I came across your videos 3 years ago and I thought I’d like to give that a try! Went to my local peterbilt, got a few zephyr buffs and rouge bars, threw it on my trusty harbor freight grinder, and started polishing on the truck I was driving at the time… I was hooked the first time I got some shine to come thru. 3 years later I still refer to your videos for advise and tips, your truly an inspiration Evan! Keep killin the game 🤘🏼
Thank you! I truly appreciate you watching the videos and supporting my channel. Happy to hear the videos are helpful.
I admire someone who is honest and humble! If you think you don't know what you're doing... well, that makes me appreciate you even, or Evan more. lol... I just started to airway buff my metal art projects (before cutting them out). After days of buffing the same piece, and having lots of hash marks, not to mention sanding marks thinking I could just muscle buff them out, I truly respect the effort it takes to do this kind of work! It's gritty, dirty and I hope someday rewarding. I'm making a mess of the whole garage. I frequently stop to blow off and ventilate the area.
I get my cold rolled mild steel from a junk/recycle yard, and it has a lot of scratches and mill glaze, not to mention warped. I started the current piece with 35 grit sandpaper from harbor fright. It held up amazing well for Al oxide. I only sanded to 240 grit and then tried airway buffing.
I got the new Makita 9237 model and an American Shine kit from Zephyr. It's going ok I guess. The results are more even than disc sanding and scotchbrite buffing.
I will continue to watch your vids and hone my skills. Thanks for making these informative videos.
Thank you for your thoughtful reflection on your metal art projects and the challenges you've encountered during the buffing process. It’s inspiring to hear about your dedication to honing your skills and the respect you have for the craft. If you’re looking to elevate your results further, I encourage you to explore our Time2Shine product line, which is specifically designed to enhance the finishing process and may provide the efficiency and quality you seek. You can check them out at www.goshineon.com. We appreciate your commitment to learning and your support for my videos-wishing you continued success in your artistic endeavors!
Thank you great information for us newbies 21:57
Glad it was helpful!
Now I understand a lot more about these buffs thanks man
Glad to help. Thanks for watching.
Awesome vid man!!
This is valuable information!! Thank You 🙌
Even is so cool
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Your a fantastic teacher, thanks.
Thank you! 😃 I try.
Thanks man. I just started watching your videos. I watch lots from other guys, my favourite part about yours is you always say this is what works best for me and not this is the only way. So thanks for your honesty and you really spend the time to show the difference between everything. I really appreciate it. Thanks
Thank you for watching. I believe there are many ways to accomplish desired results. I just try to pass on information that I wish I had when I started out. I just want to help others. Appreciate you taking the time to comment.
You are my favorite polisher thank for doing mick truck back in November 2016
Thank you for swinging by and hanging out.
Thanks for the video. I've did a little polishing in a chrome plating shop
Thanks for watching.
Beginner polisher coming to take your training course, very useful info, thank you.
Any time!
Droppin that priceless experience! You sir are pro af!
Thank you bud. Truly means a lot. I am glad to help and give info as much as I can. Thanks for taking the time to drop a comment. Means a lot.
Thanks Evan great topic!
Appreciate it!
You sir, are a craftsman
You sir are too kind. Thanks for your support.
Great video Evan👍
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Another banger video 🤙 Never be sorry man, Sharing your learnings is so appreciated no matter the quality of the filming!!! I work in the oil and gas industry and they are heavy into Safety in Australia. Is there any chance you could do a video on your learnings, experiences or heard of others bad experiences where polishing can go wrong ? 21.57 jam packed video of quality information, You know we watched all the way to the end!!! Thank you
Sorry for the late response but I have posted a video on this topic if you haven't seen it already please check it out.
Evan I’m sure you would know but on the skinny red buff for Peterbilt step’s you also mentioned using it for motorcycle finned cylinder head’s! I was taught by a shop teacher back in the 70’s you should not polish the finned head or cylinder port’s unless the engine is water cooled that they are rough to be able to catch wind for cooling? As I said you probably know this! But if it’s on a show bike that doesn’t run long enough to get hot it probably wouldn’t matter.
Polished stuff always gets hotter. I know lots of guys that polished theirs but they can overheat.
Tks Evan
Thank you.
Do you have a video that explains each proff color to each block and how to use it?
Awesome video Evan Do you have any advice for polishing in the humidity and heat??
Use drier compounds or try to get out of the heat and into a building.
This is what I’ve been looking for. I’m JUST getting into this. I bought a kit from Amazon and I want to learn. You do classes ? I’m in min Minneapolis. IM guessing you’re in like Arizona lol.
I am in Wisconsin and I do offer classes both in person and online. You can access my online class from here. If you would like more information you can email me Evan@goshineon.com. Thanks for watching! Welcome to the world of polishing.
Very informative.
Thank you
Love your video's i'd enjoy takeing a course I think you've trained a couple companies from my province Canada Quebec.
Yes I have. I worked with lavage esthetique and groupe chrome.
Mr Steger, can you please tell me how to get the cloudiness out of billet aluminum radiator overflow tanks? I have 2 on my f150 Harley Davidsom edition show truck and for the life of me i cannot polish them with wool or foam without them getting cloudy, PLEASE, PLEASE, tell me how and what i need to buy from you to polish them mirror shiny. Thanks.
Are you the one that emailed me? Sometimes it is just the quality of the metal and you can't get a perfect mirror.
@@EvanStegerMetalPolishing ok. thanks.
10 and 12" wheels are always my go to ive yet to burn a grinder up yet but i maintenance them frequency. great video btw Evan, i used to always run a matchless orange/yellow buff but ive switched to there blue buff for cutting recently and it cuts quite a bit cleaner than a orange or a orange/yellow just a bit slower of a cut but i find its worth it since you save time on the color and finish steps. i never knew buffs from california where water dipped makes sense to me now why my zephyr buffs i used to use where terrible.
Yeah regulations on air quality out there keeps them from chemically treating them.
Which buffs do you recommend for smooth headache racks? Hasn’t seen polish in a year or longer, pretty rough. Just need it to look decent and trying to avoid the zebra lines that I keep getting. I started with a yellow buff and brown bar.
Zebra lines come from overlap and pressure issues. Doesn't really have anything to do with the buff itself honestly. Not sure if this makes sense but I'll have some videos this winter explaining it.
Thank you for the fast response. Any advice on how to fix them? Recutting with the same buff made them a little less noticeable but they’re still visible. Do you think using a stiffer buff or Should I sand with 600 and recut and try to take more time and be more consistent?
@@jasen0909 Then you need to work on better pressure and overlap to match.
Yeah, it’s a clients and it looks terrible since I buffed on it. It was bad before but now it looks worse. Kinda stressed out because I’m having a hard time fixing it.
I ended up going back over everything, focused on my pressure and the overlapping. Took my time and it turned out much better. Thank you for the input.
Not using renegade anymore Evan?
No sir.
Renegade fucking sucks
@@markhutchinson4222 why do you say that? Only asking because I’m completely new to polishing and was actually just about to place a large order with renegade...
@@bobbyfetters8485 one because Renegade is low-quality don't give a flying fuck about their customers if you don't believe me ask Evan
Hi i need the addres for polisch my rims
We are located in Chilton, WI
Some time next week we need talk to you about buying your products
sounds great
I have a question for you. I use an orange and brown, and I have a green with my green. Now my question is why does my green leave a lot of black residue? I raked the buff and it still did it. Can u help. Thank you
What brand of compound are you using? Could be a long list of reasons why it is turning black. Green is a pickier compound. If the metal is pitted and not smooth it will turn black. Humidity or temperature can also be a factor. Applying too much or not enough compound can be an issue.
I can manage if my cheap ahh harbor freight burns out lol
I am not a fan of the harbor freight grinders and their lack of torque and the inconvenience of the constant break down and replacement procedure. But that is a personal preference for me and considering the closest harbor freight is 30 minutes away is a real inconvenience for me. My time is far more valuable using better quality machines and I ensure better results with consistency of the machine.