It's always a learning curve, same sht happens. I kinda think that at some point you should move away from the sand cement mix youve been using and considering that you are recommending a ruled scratch coat, I think by adding 50% sharp sand with the washed at 5:1, you'll find it better, plus it holds up better too. Also a floated scratch, leaving a 5-7mm finish with plastering sand gives a better job. I believe us spreads are getting a bad deal as in years gone by a 3 coat render gives excellent results, and I guess you've been thought a feathered off approach as a sloppy 2 coat idea, which is all about saving money, unfortunately. Also I am suggesting altering the mix, as in time and experience you'll probably be introduced to hydrolic lime, so you will have to float and finish with sharp sand/plastering sand, and with no sponge. Also as you are quite good at your job, why don't you prove it to yourself for reasons of wisdom, try adding to the scratch a tanking additive called render guard gold, made by safegurd. Put it this in to beat the heat, if I were to move to Africa for a rendering job, I would take this product. 🤣 A whole new learning curve buddy... 👍 You're cool...
Another brilliant video mate. Love your honesty as always. It goes wrong for all of us at some time or another. I've had render go off too quick on me, my fault, thought i could get the walls done on a blistering hot day 🤦🏻♂️ lesson learnt lol. Keep up the top content buddy
We used to Scud in NZ to be fair but it’s never been a thing here in England. I’ve never actually seen anyone do it here. Thanks for the suggestion though pal 😉
scudding should be 2:1 ratio ,wet the wall first to give the best grip for the scud coat, everything in Ireland is scudded,it stops the blocks showing through after you are finished, its thought that way in plastering technical college over here
Please can you / other professionals advise?: Recently had exterior sand & cement rendering completed and six weeks later noticing (whenever the render gets wet), hairline cracks appear all over in a ‘crazy paving’ pattern. (NOT visible when the walls are dry). I’m concerned that rain might get into / behind these cracks (and will then get worse over time). The plasterer who did the job initially said he’d come back to inspect it, but has now become silent and seemingly disappeared of the face of the earth! Does this sound like a serious problem and Is there something I can do / apply (as a D-I-Y-er) that will salvage/ fix this problem, such as fine surface fillers, caulks, textured coating, etc? Thanks in advance!
Top video, respect on showing warts and all, we're only human, we all fork up from time to time, Great Channel, don't get to see all your vids, out the door with work but when I get the chance I'll follow a couple of plastering channels, your up there in my top 5 for No 🐂 💩 approach
great videos. but none for the issue I have. You say 15mm for render and I completely agree, but I have a wall that has a face difference of 50mm in places. is this still possible I have got the render on but will it stay on.
1 I’d never youse plastic beads on sand and cement.2 always use a double washed sand ie morestead or wareham washed opc cement & lime . Never use sands with clay in it what does clay do when it drys out it cracks 40 years in this trade I’ve never had a render crack .
Good. When you say you paint stuff to the brick or block first to help with bonding, is that technically the same as primer or painting with pva latex bonding liquid?
Good video, any advice on rendering onto thermolite, doing my garage in a few months, front and back will be K rend side will be sand cement, I've heard they are like sponges and dose the mix need to be weaker? Cheers
The heat don’t just affect render did some ceilings last year it was 34 degrees in the rooms and had some major shrinkage cracks and peeling it was just too hot to skim in there and that was with 3 coats of pva one of which was applied just before the start of the first coat excessive heat and spreading e not good bed fellows I reckon
@@PlasteringForBeginners for sure there was more water coming out of me than was in the buckets . took ur advise on the speed skim though and got one great shout from ya it rearly does speed the process up and buy u some time (I’m not in ur league when it comes to speed ) and makes the whole process less stressful cheers mate
That would be because you ended up with no topcoat to have a problem with. The water proofer goes in the top coat, put it in the scratch coat and the topcoat won't stick.
@@Johnx961 really? The water proofer is designed to repel water. The topcoat is full of water ,so if the water proofer is doing it's job it shouldn't stick. If that's wrong then please explain how or why? Always willing to be proven wrong and learn something in the process.
It's always a learning curve, same sht happens. I kinda think that at some point you should move away from the sand cement mix youve been using and considering that you are recommending a ruled scratch coat, I think by adding 50% sharp sand with the washed at 5:1, you'll find it better, plus it holds up better too. Also a floated scratch, leaving a 5-7mm finish with plastering sand gives a better job. I believe us spreads are getting a bad deal as in years gone by a 3 coat render gives excellent results, and I guess you've been thought a feathered off approach as a sloppy 2 coat idea, which is all about saving money, unfortunately. Also I am suggesting altering the mix, as in time and experience you'll probably be introduced to hydrolic lime, so you will have to float and finish with sharp sand/plastering sand, and with no sponge. Also as you are quite good at your job, why don't you prove it to yourself for reasons of wisdom, try adding to the scratch a tanking additive called render guard gold, made by safegurd. Put it this in to beat the heat, if I were to move to Africa for a rendering job, I would take this product. 🤣 A whole new learning curve buddy... 👍
You're cool...
Another brilliant video mate. Love your honesty as always. It goes wrong for all of us at some time or another. I've had render go off too quick on me, my fault, thought i could get the walls done on a blistering hot day 🤦🏻♂️ lesson learnt lol. Keep up the top content buddy
It’s easily done mate - it’s horrible once it turns though! Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Cheers pal 👍
Do you know about permeable materials when rendering of solid wall construction.
Lime v sand & cement . That would make a good video .
Beautiful video,
Loved it and couldn’t agree more with all the points mentioned.
Can render be done in 1 coat for lining block work that will contain cow sh1t in an underground drainage system?
You are very nice man and seem humble and easy to work with. You so informative mate stay blessed
Thanks pal! I really appreciate that 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners you are treasure of trade information mate I see your clips and improve my skills in plastering good lad
What a excellent video. Appreciate your honesty.
Thank you mate!
That's why you give it a good scratch coat duh!
Hello mate I scud everything I render. 3 to 1 ratio sand cement with a Costa cup of sbr 👌 give it a go
We used to Scud in NZ to be fair but it’s never been a thing here in England. I’ve never actually seen anyone do it here. Thanks for the suggestion though pal 😉
scudding should be 2:1 ratio ,wet the wall first to give the best grip for the scud coat, everything in Ireland is scudded,it stops the blocks showing through after you are finished, its thought that way in plastering technical college over here
Please can you / other professionals advise?:
Recently had exterior sand & cement rendering completed and six weeks later noticing (whenever the render gets wet), hairline cracks appear all over in a ‘crazy paving’ pattern. (NOT visible when the walls are dry).
I’m concerned that rain might get into / behind these cracks (and will then get worse over time).
The plasterer who did the job initially said he’d come back to inspect it, but has now become silent and seemingly disappeared of the face of the earth! Does this sound like a serious problem and Is there something I can do / apply (as a D-I-Y-er) that will salvage/ fix this problem, such as fine surface fillers, caulks, textured coating, etc?
Thanks in advance!
Mate your not am amateur. The guy calling the names probably hasn’t done a lot of jobs. We all make mistakes that’s the way it goes in rendering.
Top video, respect on showing warts and all, we're only human, we all fork up from time to time, Great Channel, don't get to see all your vids, out the door with work but when I get the chance I'll follow a couple of plastering channels, your up there in my top 5 for No 🐂 💩 approach
great videos. but none for the issue I have.
You say 15mm for render and I completely agree, but I have a wall that has a face difference of 50mm in places. is this still possible I have got the render on but will it stay on.
Scud coat all day long
1 I’d never youse plastic beads on sand and cement.2 always use a double washed sand ie morestead or wareham washed opc cement & lime . Never use sands with clay in it what does clay do when it drys out it cracks 40 years in this trade I’ve never had a render crack .
Good. When you say you paint stuff to the brick or block first to help with bonding, is that technically the same as primer or painting with pva latex bonding liquid?
Are you a rendered
really appreciate your integrity for posting this 👋👋👋
Glad it was helpful!
At around 2.50 where your on about the steel drawing the moisture out of the mix would a rigid plazi trowel be any good for putting it on?
Why didn't you wet the render with a hose after it dried on you?
Here in Western Australia we do this all the time, a hot dry climate.
thanks for your advice I have just managed to render my garden seating walls looks great. blooming hard work though!
Can you apply sbr to the scratch coat surface prior to applying the top coat to get a better bond than using water???
Learning a lot from your videos mate funny too😂 🙏🏾
Cheers pal 👍
you DO NOT need to soak the wall don't do it a small amount is all you need if any
I will key the wall and use PVA before the render
What is the best method of fixing beading ?
Hi have you ever had second scratch crack what is best to sort this ?
Good video, any advice on rendering onto thermolite, doing my garage in a few months, front and back will be K rend side will be sand cement, I've heard they are like sponges and dose the mix need to be weaker? Cheers
This video should help pal 👍
Wall Of DOOM!!! & My Secret Weapon When RENDERING!!
ruclips.net/video/c9D2zy31Cq0/видео.html
thanks mate very helpful
Great advice FairPlay 👍
Cheers mate…thanks for watching!
hello, what kind of straight edge of 4 or 5 feet that I would need .thank you .
I just use a 1.8m Featheredge when I’m rendering - it’s the best in my opinion✌️
The heat don’t just affect render did some ceilings last year it was 34 degrees in the rooms and had some major shrinkage cracks and peeling it was just too hot to skim in there and that was with 3 coats of pva one of which was applied just before the start of the first coat excessive heat and spreading e not good bed fellows I reckon
Any Plastering is a pain in the heat - it just makes the whole process a lot harder.
@@PlasteringForBeginners for sure there was more water coming out of me than was in the buckets . took ur advise on the speed skim though and got one great shout from ya it rearly does speed the process up and buy u some time (I’m not in ur league when it comes to speed ) and makes the whole process less stressful cheers mate
Hi, do you use sharp sand?
Grate vid Blaine
Thanks pal!!
@@PlasteringForBeginners no worries mate keep it up ps hope I spelt your name correctly
any tips for rendering onto 3.6n celcon blocks?
There's a vid on that on his channel somewhere
@@adamstudd28 couldn't find one but I'll have another look, cheers
This video should help pal 👍
Wall Of DOOM!!! & My Secret Weapon When RENDERING!!
ruclips.net/video/c9D2zy31Cq0/видео.html
💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻👍
👍👍👍
I always use waterproofer in the scratch never had any problems with top coat.
👍👍
That would be because you ended up with no topcoat to have a problem with. The water proofer goes in the top coat, put it in the scratch coat and the topcoat won't stick.
Ha ha ha! You'll learn.
@@Johnx961 really? The water proofer is designed to repel water. The topcoat is full of water ,so if the water proofer is doing it's job it shouldn't stick. If that's wrong then please explain how or why? Always willing to be proven wrong and learn something in the process.
keep em coming Blane!!
Cheers pal!!