I’m glad to say that shutdown 2018 has finally finished, after working 60 hours a week for the last 6 weeks I can now have two days off in a row 😊 I hope everyone has a great bank holiday weekend 😉
Smashing tutorial, i have never used a solder joint, but i use a lot of solder in electronics. Paying attention to small details has always worked for me. A new bath has been fitted in my house, the solder joints are a mess of dripping solder all down the pipes, perhaps he overheated the captive solder, he is a pillock lol.
Have a great few days yourself and a well earned rest. I used to use these a lot back in the days when I put my own central systems in and they were great. Thanks for posting .
Just managed to put a screw through heating pipe under floorboard 😖 This will be my first venture into soldering which your video has at least given me some confidence in! Thanks for posting it, wish me luck!!
@@ultimatehandyman Failed!! Heated for ages with a small blowtorch and solder started coming out but as soon as heating went back on the edges started bubbling and water seeping out 😩 Going to have admit defeat and call a plumber and use compression to keep me going short term
Excellent presentation. Just what I needed. I always directly search your video content when needing info on my diy skills because I always know it's going to be there somewhere. Thank you. 😀
Thank you, very clear and well explained. Got a load of radiator pipes to put together, wish me luck! Looking up the repair patch as well, that looks like a great way of fixing a hard to access pipe with a hole in it. Thanks for mentioning it, never new they existed, been stressing about how to fix that pipe.
@@ultimatehandyman Update - done several pipes now, forgot about fluxing the inside of the fittings... Think that will be an issue? Tried the click fix but thatpipe appears to have water in it still, so need to figure out a way to sort that 🤔
As always another great vid. Quick question: is is better to heat the pipes either side or the fitting directly? Surly if the pipes aren’t up to temp, you might get a dry joint (I’m coming from an electronics background of soldering). Keep up the videos, it’s so nice to get a British (and northern!) perspective against all the US stuff on RUclips.
They're great for tight spaces like under floorboards where you can't even get a second hand in with a roll of solder let alone see if it's running into the joint. However, if the joints have good access and will be visible, end feed fittings always look better.
@@woodbine66 So where I have only got access to one side of the copper pipe, just blow torching the visible side should melt the solder ALL the way round? I'm just toying with this issue now. I thought I'd need to blow torch all the way around the pipe?
For appearance, I much prefer end feed, but yorkies have a use, especially in tight corners where it's difficult to feed solder. Like most plumbers, I still feed solder on the end of these "just in case", old habits are hard to break even though it's unnecessary. Recently I bought some of the imported yorkies bought from a major online trade supplier and they are very thin copper and the bends are very tight, and even had some with the solder ring missing, so I much prefer end feed or the original Yorkshire fittings.
Two days off.....they are spoiling you😀😀. Good instructions. Very simple to do. Although you could of tested it just to waste a bit more of your time👍👍👍😀.
This is great. I'm useless at soldering, but I hate the way my pushfit effort to add a isolation valve to the loo looks like a kids construction toy. Re: The "gentle heat", with the blow torch? I don't have a blow torch but I do have a heat gun with adjustable temperatures. I've watched your video showing how to use a heat gun for these fittings, where you say to use the highest setting. I presume that, whatever the highest temperature mine goes up to is, it will never be too hot as to not be as "gentle" as a blow torch on low flame? Thanks again.
Yes, a heat gun will melt the solder, but they give out much less heat than a blowtorch, so you need the heat gun set to maximum. It's also much slower with a heat gun!
LOL, as soon as I said "joint" in the video I paused and tried to think of another term for it, but then just repeated it again ;-) Thanks for the comment
Never thought of using a heat gun instead of the torch. Always hated soldering pipes in tight positions under the floorboards Might give a heat gun a try next time.
Heat guns work, but they are much slower. I did buy a special tool for this purpose, but only tried it once. I'll try it again in future, mine is similar to this- bit.ly/3uZFCFg
Hi I imagine you have a thousand ideas for videos that you’ve not managed to do, but here’s one more. Since the switch to plastic plumbing pipe I’ve always thought there would be issues with flow through the pipes; not least due to the inserts like the John Guest ones. Now I’ve read lots of research about how plastic isn’t THAT bad compared to soldered or compression copper pipework, but if you have a complex install with, say a dozen elbows all with two inserts on 15mm pipe I cannot believe that the flow (gravity system) would be as good as soldered copper. However, what I’d be interested to see is a video showing the difference between the two setups. As I say, just another idea to add to your backlog ;)
I have been planning a video on the difference between plastic and copper pipe, like you say the inserts really reduce the bore, especially with 10mm plastic pipe. I'll try to set up a rig when I get chance. Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Ultimate Handyman I’m just installing a new wet room shower with rain soaker, 6 jets (not for me, apparently women love these since they can have a shower but don’t get their hair wet if they just switch on the jets - who knew :) ) and a separate shower wand. So a 3 outlet shower valve. I usually just use JG these days for simplicity but for this it’s all soldered copper in 22mm with pressure balancing loop for jets etc Note: I know there are endless issues with the flow with body jets but the Mrs wants what the Mrs wants - same for my 14y daughter. Getting wet hair is apparently an awful pain. I wouldn’t know, most of mine was gone by my 30th lol
HI. Great video! Thank you. I have to weld a 8mm Yorkshire to stainless steel. I understand I need a special flux and then can use silver solder. Is silver solder used in Yorkshire fittings?
I'm not sure, their website just states that the solder is "lead free" www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/News/fittings-news/PutYourFaithInTheOriginalYorkshireFitting
Thanks Arfan, Yes I only heat one side of the fitting. A few years back I used to move the blowtorch but was told not to by a plumber with 40+ years experience.
when you clean that pipe and applied flux ...dont put it back the way that it touches anything. you just contaminated the pipe with whatever you had on your table ...that's why the solder joints leak after a while ..
I just apply the heat from one direction. Originally I used to move the torch, until a plumber of over 40 years in my forum watched one of my videos and said "keep the damn torch still" ;-) Thanks for the comment
copper is superb at conducting heat, wont matter what you do with the heat, and mostly you are plumbing in a tight spot with a solder mat behind anyway
These are a good cheap alternative to buying end feeds and solder separate which can be more expensive but how well are the joints sealed and whats the possibility of these ever leaking? I want to do some first fix plumbing for my downstairs loo refurbishment so the pipe works going to be hidden behind the battens where plasterboard will be going so need to make sure all the joints are good. Would I be better off using these maybe adding extra solder round the edges just to be safe or just stick some Speedfit ends on? Cheers
I've used these for years with no issues. A mate of mine always adds a little extra solder to them though. They give a really good joint, providing the pipe is deburred and cleaned properly before soldering 👍
@@ultimatehandyman That’s quite assuring to hear that you have not had any problems with them but I think when I come to doing my job I might spend a little more by adding a little extra solder just to be safe when I come to do it. Will need to fit an isolator valve before I can do any work as the incoming pipe is under mains pressure and got no way of isolation unless it’s done outside at the main stopcock which controls 2 semis. Thanks for the advice tho!
Flux inside the fitting may contaminate the inside of the pipe and cause pinhole leaks. Great idea with the heat gun. I'll try my wife's blue drier hahaha!
Hardly anyone has heard about these fittings here in Australia,when I first asked about them at Bunnings they just looked blankly back at me and afaik they're not available here,I looked at getting some off ebay and screwfix but way to expensive :/
Thanks, gravity makes the solder exit the fitting more at it's lowest point. So if you have the pipe horizontal there will be a thicker bead of solder underneath the fitting and if the pipe is vertical the solder will run downwards. Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video. My dad taught me how to use these when I was younger. I have had some leaks with them though. I think it might be from overheating the joints?
Are you sure you cleaned and fluxed the parts first? I have never had one leak! You don't need a massive amount of heat to melt the solder, just a gentle flame will do. Thanks for the comment
@@thehartfamily8963 Yeah. I'm sure someone did a video once about heating the joint too much and it did not cause any problems, even after well over heating it.
It would be nice if we had that type of fitting in the good old U. S. of A. When working with copper it would speed things up. However I don't do much copper anymore mostly pex now.
I'm working on a video about how to remove a broken bolt that is in a deep hole. I've done a couple of videos on removing stripped screws, rounded bolts, etc. but people always say "that is easy, try removing one that is sheared in a hole", so I'm editing the video right now- I just have to cut out a lot of it as it currently 3 hours long ;-) Thanks for the comment
I'm afraid not, I subcontract as a maintenance engineer in two local chemical plants and I'm booked in there for the foreseeable future. Thanks for the comment
Hi pal. Is best use a damp cloth to cool down pipe after soldering or some plumbers I've seen,, tend to use flux with a brush and cool it down.... What's you opinion on that? with
Couldn't you get the same results, simply by pre-wrapping a loop of solder around, on the pipe side. Then, when you heat the fitting, the flux will eventually draw in the solder that's already been pre-wrapped, and then you're done. Am I missing something? It seems like this would be much cheaper than a Yorkshire fitting, yet providing the same kind of functionality.. Could you do a demonstration of this method, as I've outlined?
what I don't understand about these is why you heat the fitting, not the pipe. for end feed (non Yorkshire) the principle is the heat draws the solder into the fitting by capillary attraction. hence it is logical to heat the fitting, not the pipe, to create that heat differential why then do you do not do the reverse with Yorkshires? When I tried Yorkshires I could not get the solder to appear outside at all, in fact it only appeared when oi physically turned the pipe to see what was happening, at which point the solder ring did appear at the joint. In one case I actually ended up by supplementing with an end feed as well.
The heat normally conducts very quickly on copper pipes. Are you 100% certain that your fittings were made by “Yorkshire”? As some other firms make solder ring fittings, and they might not be as good!
I've just tried one of these fittings on microbore and the solder never came out off the end. I cleaned all well and applied the flux and then applied the heat. No solder then came out like your video.
I think the small ones like that don't have much solder in them, so you might not see it exit as much, although I would expect to be able to see some of it. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman well, I had to solder a total of 6 fittings to bury a flow and return for a rad in the wall. I've turned it on and no leaks. The fact that I didn't see any solder made me feel uneasy but it's all good. Thanks for replying and informing me of that. 👍
They are available in eastern Europe, but plubers don't use them, because they say taht they don't contain enough solder to make hermetic connection. Don't know why that is.
hi sir please give me a link where i can find the name & pictures of different types of fittings together as you have shown in your video in 2:27 - to 2:37 minute
That was on the Pegler website. I can no longer find that page, but if you check their site there is loads of information - www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/Literature/Brochures You can download brochures from that page ;-)
lots of europe dont use bare copper pipes, some kind of plastic aluminium composite pipe and push fittings. weird how trade plumbers still use the plain fittings and feed their own solder, cant imagine how small the savings are, me im a fan of compression fittings!
I think there is a large saving between end feed and solder ring fittings, especially if you are using hundreds of them per week, but for most DIY'ers it is well worth using solder ring fittings for their ease of use. Thanks for the comment
3:55 Flux doesn't clean the copper! You already cleaned it by sanding it to a shiny finish. The flux keeps the copper from oxidizing-you'll know because the surface gets dull when this happens. Solder will not adhere to oxidized pipe.
a flux (derived from Latin fluxus meaning "flow") is a chemical cleaning agent, flowing agent, or purifying agent. Fluxes may have more than one function at a time. They are used in both extractive metallurgy and metal joining. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_%28metallurgy%29
Hi UHM I’m hoping you or someone who reads this knows the answer to my question: why can I not find end feed/solder ball valve isolators the UK for 15/22/28? Even after endless searching on many of the major plumbing suppliers (BES, JTM, etc etc), and even eBay, Amazon... They appear all the rage across the pond but over here they are only ever compression. Is there some WRAS/Gas reg, or just no demand in the Uk ?? Thx in advance.
I'm not sure, to be honest. I always thought that most valves are compression so that the heat from soldering could not transfer to the valve and melt the sealing material. Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman yeah I thought the same. Yet @thisoldplumber on “this old house” always uses soldered ones. I’m fine with compression, more curiosity than anything. Thx for reply
I've always used these, but in my early days I discovered that if working on a vertical joint it's easy to overheat it and watch the solder run out in a split second, leaving the whole thing dry. And then you have to wait for it to cool, take it apart, clean it all up and start again. I presume 'shutdown 2018' means school holidays?
Shutdown is when the two chemical plants where I subcontract as a maintenance engineer stop production for a few weeks each (not at the same time). This means that all the big maintenance jobs are done during this period. Thanks for the comment
I’m glad to say that shutdown 2018 has finally finished, after working 60 hours a week for the last 6 weeks I can now have two days off in a row 😊
I hope everyone has a great bank holiday weekend 😉
Eazy peazy lemon sqweezy
Someone has a lot of extra cash to spend :P
Someone has a lot of tax to pay as well.
Thanks for the comment
Same here in Germany, to say the tax rate for overtime destimulating would be a gross understatement (you get like 30% from what you do)
And "they" threatened an unemployment explosion if the UK left the EU...
Smashing tutorial, i have never used a solder joint, but i use a lot of solder in electronics.
Paying attention to small details has always worked for me.
A new bath has been fitted in my house, the solder joints are a mess of dripping solder all down the pipes, perhaps he overheated the captive solder, he is a pillock lol.
LOL
Thanks for the comment ;-)
As a Yorkshire man I approve of this fittings :D :)
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thank you for being the only video on RUclips to explain pre-soldered fittings.
I'm glad the video has helped ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Do it yourself channel do a video also
Everything I wanted to know, about these type of fittings and preparation. Thank you, much!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Have a great few days yourself and a well earned rest. I used to use these a lot back in the days when I put my own central systems in and they were great. Thanks for posting .
Thanks for the comment
Just managed to put a screw through heating pipe under floorboard 😖 This will be my first venture into soldering which your video has at least given me some confidence in! Thanks for posting it, wish me luck!!
Good luck with it ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman Failed!! Heated for ages with a small blowtorch and solder started coming out but as soon as heating went back on the edges started bubbling and water seeping out 😩 Going to have admit defeat and call a plumber and use compression to keep me going short term
This seems a lot better than what we have in the states. Simpler and cleaner process.
Yes, these are a great way to join copper pipe 👍
Another perfectly detailed video.
Best part is the British perspective
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Excellent presentation. Just what I needed. I always directly search your video content when needing info on my diy skills because I always know it's going to be there somewhere. Thank you. 😀
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Those Yorkshire fittings are very popular in Australia, we used to call them 'sweat joints'.
Thanks, I've mentioned this to Nick M in his comment.
Thanks for the comment
1st invented in 1934 by Pegler & made in Stourton Leeds.
Well that’s a funny name I’d have called them chazwazzers
I have the same organizing box, very handy! The craftsman version is also well-made, along with the Dewalt box you have. Highly recommended.
👍
Excellent demo and video, thanks. Didn't know you can get chrome plated ones. Hope you enjoy your couple of well-deserved days off.
Thanks Mark 👍
Great video .Nicely explained and demonstrated. Thank you 👍
Thank you, very clear and well explained. Got a load of radiator pipes to put together, wish me luck! Looking up the repair patch as well, that looks like a great way of fixing a hard to access pipe with a hole in it. Thanks for mentioning it, never new they existed, been stressing about how to fix that pipe.
Good luck with it 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Update - done several pipes now, forgot about fluxing the inside of the fittings... Think that will be an issue? Tried the click fix but thatpipe appears to have water in it still, so need to figure out a way to sort that 🤔
As always another great vid. Quick question: is is better to heat the pipes either side or the fitting directly? Surly if the pipes aren’t up to temp, you might get a dry joint (I’m coming from an electronics background of soldering). Keep up the videos, it’s so nice to get a British (and northern!) perspective against all the US stuff on RUclips.
Thanks, the copper is such a good conductor that I'm sure the two pipes will soon reach the correct temperature.
Thanks for the comment
I always carry a few for if I'm working in a very tight spot and normal endfeed soldering is too tight. As you said great for the DIY person too.
Thanks for the comment 👍
They're great for tight spaces like under floorboards where you can't even get a second hand in with a roll of solder let alone see if it's running into the joint. However, if the joints have good access and will be visible, end feed fittings always look better.
@@woodbine66 So where I have only got access to one side of the copper pipe, just blow torching the visible side should melt the solder ALL the way round? I'm just toying with this issue now. I thought I'd need to blow torch all the way around the pipe?
Excellent demonstration, I always enjoy your plumbing videos.
Thanks for the comment
For appearance, I much prefer end feed, but yorkies have a use, especially in tight corners where it's difficult to feed solder. Like most plumbers, I still feed solder on the end of these "just in case", old habits are hard to break even though it's unnecessary. Recently I bought some of the imported yorkies bought from a major online trade supplier and they are very thin copper and the bends are very tight, and even had some with the solder ring missing, so I much prefer end feed or the original Yorkshire fittings.
Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
I have always added some solder to the ends for that reason.
Two days off.....they are spoiling you😀😀. Good instructions. Very simple to do. Although you could of tested it just to waste a bit more of your time👍👍👍😀.
Thanks for the comment
This is great. I'm useless at soldering, but I hate the way my pushfit effort to add a isolation valve to the loo looks like a kids construction toy.
Re: The "gentle heat", with the blow torch? I don't have a blow torch but I do have a heat gun with adjustable temperatures.
I've watched your video showing how to use a heat gun for these fittings, where you say to use the highest setting. I presume that, whatever the highest temperature mine goes up to is, it will never be too hot as to not be as "gentle" as a blow torch on low flame?
Thanks again.
Yes, a heat gun will melt the solder, but they give out much less heat than a blowtorch, so you need the heat gun set to maximum. It's also much slower with a heat gun!
How have I never seen these before? It’s a great idea. Thanks
Not sure, I guess a lot of plumbing pipes are not visible ( as most are under floors etc)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this video
Thanks for the comment
I always enjoy a nice joint
LOL, as soon as I said "joint" in the video I paused and tried to think of another term for it, but then just repeated it again ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Great video as always and very helpful I hope you enjoy your two days off
Thanks Martin ;-)
Nice video man, no messing about. 👌
Thanks for the comment 👍
Never thought of using a heat gun instead of the torch.
Always hated soldering pipes in tight positions under the floorboards
Might give a heat gun a try next time.
Heat guns work, but they are much slower.
I did buy a special tool for this purpose, but only tried it once.
I'll try it again in future, mine is similar to this- bit.ly/3uZFCFg
Thanks pal just what I needed
Thanks for the comment 👍
Brilliant, thanks.
Thank for making this video. You seem like a cool guy
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi
I imagine you have a thousand ideas for videos that you’ve not managed to do, but here’s one more.
Since the switch to plastic plumbing pipe I’ve always thought there would be issues with flow through the pipes; not least due to the inserts like the John Guest ones.
Now I’ve read lots of research about how plastic isn’t THAT bad compared to soldered or compression copper pipework, but if you have a complex install with, say a dozen elbows all with two inserts on 15mm pipe I cannot believe that the flow (gravity system) would be as good as soldered copper.
However, what I’d be interested to see is a video showing the difference between the two setups.
As I say, just another idea to add to your backlog ;)
I have been planning a video on the difference between plastic and copper pipe, like you say the inserts really reduce the bore, especially with 10mm plastic pipe. I'll try to set up a rig when I get chance.
Thanks for the suggestion 👍
Ultimate Handyman I’m just installing a new wet room shower with rain soaker, 6 jets (not for me, apparently women love these since they can have a shower but don’t get their hair wet if they just switch on the jets - who knew :) ) and a separate shower wand. So a 3 outlet shower valve.
I usually just use JG these days for simplicity but for this it’s all soldered copper in 22mm with pressure balancing loop for jets etc
Note: I know there are endless issues with the flow with body jets but the Mrs wants what the Mrs wants - same for my 14y daughter. Getting wet hair is apparently an awful pain. I wouldn’t know, most of mine was gone by my 30th lol
Excellent vid, everything I needed to know.
Cheers Bud
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Great video, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks you.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
HI. Great video! Thank you. I have to weld a 8mm Yorkshire to stainless steel. I understand I need a special flux and then can use silver solder. Is silver solder used in Yorkshire fittings?
I'm not sure, their website just states that the solder is "lead free"
www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/News/fittings-news/PutYourFaithInTheOriginalYorkshireFitting
hi chez great vid. glad you got a couple of days off you deserve it. Did you just heat one side of the fitting? many thanks
Thanks Arfan, Yes I only heat one side of the fitting. A few years back I used to move the blowtorch but was told not to by a plumber with 40+ years experience.
@@ultimatehandyman what was the reason to only heat one side?
Does the capillary action work just as well when fitting these on vertical pipes?
Yes, just don’t heat the fitting too much or gravity will pull the solder down 👍
Another great video Chez. Thanks. Did everything start up again OK after the shutdown? :-) Enjoy your days off!
Thanks, yes both plants started up reasonably well 👍
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this video. Could you please explain what is the red ring tool in 2:58 and what is the purpose of using it?
It’s a deburring tool, which removes the burrs from copper pipe. More info here- ruclips.net/video/EwN1cwjWUYI/видео.html&pp
👍
when you clean that pipe and applied flux ...dont put it back the way that it touches anything. you just contaminated the pipe with whatever you had on your table ...that's why the solder joints leak after a while ..
They need to get these in the US. I can't find them nowhere
Absolutely!
Thanks for the comment 👍
was it in the edit or do you just apply heat from one direction?...
I just apply the heat from one direction. Originally I used to move the torch, until a plumber of over 40 years in my forum watched one of my videos and said "keep the damn torch still" ;-)
Thanks for the comment
copper is superb at conducting heat, wont matter what you do with the heat, and mostly you are plumbing in a tight spot with a solder mat behind anyway
thanks for that and the video... I'll stop contorting myself trying to get to the back of fittings now that I know that!
On bigger sized pipe fitting, you should move the flame from one side to another to get the heat to spread, but not necessary on 15mm or smaller.
woodbine66 is that really true? As someone above says, copper transmits heat so easily I doubt it’s needed.
I am a PEX man but that looks good. :)
Thanks for the comment ;-)
These are a good cheap alternative to buying end feeds and solder separate which can be more expensive but how well are the joints sealed and whats the possibility of these ever leaking? I want to do some first fix plumbing for my downstairs loo refurbishment so the pipe works going to be hidden behind the battens where plasterboard will be going so need to make sure all the joints are good. Would I be better off using these maybe adding extra solder round the edges just to be safe or just stick some Speedfit ends on? Cheers
I've used these for years with no issues. A mate of mine always adds a little extra solder to them though. They give a really good joint, providing the pipe is deburred and cleaned properly before soldering 👍
@@ultimatehandyman That’s quite assuring to hear that you have not had any problems with them but I think when I come to doing my job I might spend a little more by adding a little extra solder just to be safe when I come to do it. Will need to fit an isolator valve before I can do any work as the incoming pipe is under mains pressure and got no way of isolation unless it’s done outside at the main stopcock which controls 2 semis. Thanks for the advice tho!
Heat gun! Finally got you speaking proper Chez! Haha.
LOL ;-)
Exactly what i needed this helped me loads. 👍
Thanks for the comment
Another good video. Thanks for sharing 👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Flux inside the fitting may contaminate the inside of the pipe and cause pinhole leaks.
Great idea with the heat gun. I'll try my wife's blue drier hahaha!
It might take a bit longer with the hairdryer 😂
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hardly anyone has heard about these fittings here in Australia,when I first asked about them at Bunnings they just looked blankly back at me and afaik they're not available here,I looked at getting some off ebay and screwfix but way to expensive :/
Blackmore56 has just said they are very popular in Australia and are known as 'sweat joints'.
Thanks for the comment
True ..they are very common in australia and bunnings is a place to buy .might have come across a rookie who doesnt know obviously abt these fitting..
Excellent demo. Just curious. Does the solder exit the joint, against gravity, if you solder in the vertical plane?
Thanks, gravity makes the solder exit the fitting more at it's lowest point. So if you have the pipe horizontal there will be a thicker bead of solder underneath the fitting and if the pipe is vertical the solder will run downwards.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice video. My dad taught me how to use these when I was younger. I have had some leaks with them though. I think it might be from overheating the joints?
Are you sure you cleaned and fluxed the parts first?
I have never had one leak!
You don't need a massive amount of heat to melt the solder, just a gentle flame will do.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Yes, I did clean and flux the joints. Puzzling.
@@thehartfamily8963 Yeah. I'm sure someone did a video once about heating the joint too much and it did not cause any problems, even after well over heating it.
Very good thank you
Welcome 😊
It would be nice if we had that type of fitting in the good old U. S. of A. When working with copper it would speed things up. However I don't do much copper anymore mostly pex now.
PEX has a lot of advantages over copper (I keep meaning to make a video about the advantages/disadvantages)
Thanks for the comment
They have these fittings in Home Depot and Lowe's, but they are quite expensive. I know guys who exclusively use them though.
They definitely dont have these fittings in the U.S, you might be thinking of a propress fitting that look similar.
Menard's has them. A 1" male thread adapter is very reasonably priced at $3.99. Equivalent regular fitting was about $15.00
I noticed you have a sump on your bench are we going to be seeing some engine videos ? 🖒
I'm working on a video about how to remove a broken bolt that is in a deep hole.
I've done a couple of videos on removing stripped screws, rounded bolts, etc. but people always say "that is easy, try removing one that is sheared in a hole", so I'm editing the video right now- I just have to cut out a lot of it as it currently 3 hours long ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Ahh fair enough I look forward to watching it 😆
Great video! Do these work well on vertical applications? Will the solder still exit the top of the fitting? Thanks
Terry
It will be fine in vertical applications, although some solder may exit from the bottom due to gravity.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I hope you’re enjoying your BH I was wondering if you take any new jobs in Warwickshire ? Thank you
I'm afraid not, I subcontract as a maintenance engineer in two local chemical plants and I'm booked in there for the foreseeable future.
Thanks for the comment
Hi pal. Is best use a damp cloth to cool down pipe after soldering or some plumbers I've seen,, tend to use flux with a brush and cool it down.... What's you opinion on that? with
You can do. A mate of mine gives the pipes a wipe straight away, sometimes with a damp cloth, sometimes with wire wool 👍
Couldn't you get the same results, simply by pre-wrapping a loop of solder around, on the pipe side. Then, when you heat the fitting, the flux will eventually draw in the solder that's already been pre-wrapped, and then you're done.
Am I missing something? It seems like this would be much cheaper than a Yorkshire fitting, yet providing the same kind of functionality..
Could you do a demonstration of this method, as I've outlined?
Not sure about that 🙄
Thanks for the comment 👍
what I don't understand about these is why you heat the fitting, not the pipe.
for end feed (non Yorkshire) the principle is the heat draws the solder into the fitting by capillary attraction. hence it is logical to heat the fitting, not the pipe, to create that heat differential
why then do you do not do the reverse with Yorkshires?
When I tried Yorkshires I could not get the solder to appear outside at all, in fact it only appeared when oi physically turned the pipe to see what was happening, at which point the solder ring did appear at the joint. In one case I actually ended up by supplementing with an end feed as well.
The heat normally conducts very quickly on copper pipes. Are you 100% certain that your fittings were made by “Yorkshire”? As some other firms make solder ring fittings, and they might not be as good!
Very good!!!
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Thank you
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Flux is for Capillary action.
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I've just tried one of these fittings on microbore and the solder never came out off the end. I cleaned all well and applied the flux and then applied the heat. No solder then came out like your video.
I think the small ones like that don't have much solder in them, so you might not see it exit as much, although I would expect to be able to see some of it.
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@@ultimatehandyman well, I had to solder a total of 6 fittings to bury a flow and return for a rad in the wall. I've turned it on and no leaks. The fact that I didn't see any solder made me feel uneasy but it's all good. Thanks for replying and informing me of that. 👍
They are available in eastern Europe, but plubers don't use them, because they say taht they don't contain enough solder to make hermetic connection. Don't know why that is.
Thanks for the info
Thanks
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
hi sir please give me a link where i can find the name & pictures of different types of fittings together as you have shown in your video in 2:27 - to 2:37 minute
That was on the Pegler website. I can no longer find that page, but if you check their site there is loads of information - www.pegleryorkshire.co.uk/EN/Literature/Brochures
You can download brochures from that page ;-)
lots of europe dont use bare copper pipes, some kind of plastic aluminium composite pipe and push fittings. weird how trade plumbers still use the plain fittings and feed their own solder, cant imagine how small the savings are, me im a fan of compression fittings!
I think there is a large saving between end feed and solder ring fittings, especially if you are using hundreds of them per week, but for most DIY'ers it is well worth using solder ring fittings for their ease of use.
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You don't need to heat all around the fitting with the torch?
I guess the copper conducts the heat all the way around?
Yes, the heat should quickly conduct all the way around.
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3:55 Flux doesn't clean the copper! You already cleaned it by sanding it to a shiny finish. The flux keeps the copper from oxidizing-you'll know because the surface gets dull when this happens. Solder will not adhere to oxidized pipe.
a flux (derived from Latin fluxus meaning "flow") is a chemical cleaning agent, flowing agent, or purifying agent. Fluxes may have more than one function at a time. They are used in both extractive metallurgy and metal joining.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flux_%28metallurgy%29
Hi UHM I’m hoping you or someone who reads this knows the answer to my question:
why can I not find end feed/solder ball valve isolators the UK for 15/22/28?
Even after endless searching on many of the major plumbing suppliers (BES, JTM, etc etc), and even eBay, Amazon...
They appear all the rage across the pond but over here they are only ever compression.
Is there some WRAS/Gas reg, or just no demand in the Uk ??
Thx in advance.
I'm not sure, to be honest.
I always thought that most valves are compression so that the heat from soldering could not transfer to the valve and melt the sealing material.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman yeah I thought the same. Yet @thisoldplumber on “this old house” always uses soldered ones.
I’m fine with compression, more curiosity than anything.
Thx for reply
can they be used in hvac applications?
Not sure, you would have to ask the manufacturers.
www.flowflex.com/click-fix
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Should always add a bit of solder don't just rely on the solder inside the fitting
😂
these are not approved for use in Australia :/ shame! i used them back in England for years and never had one fail on me
Strange how they are used everywhere in the UK, but not approved in other countries!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I've always used these, but in my early days I discovered that if working on a vertical joint it's easy to overheat it and watch the solder run out in a split second, leaving the whole thing dry. And then you have to wait for it to cool, take it apart, clean it all up and start again. I presume 'shutdown 2018' means school holidays?
Shutdown is when the two chemical plants where I subcontract as a maintenance engineer stop production for a few weeks each (not at the same time). This means that all the big maintenance jobs are done during this period.
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Man why doesnt the US advertise these?
I'm not sure why these are not widely available in the states!
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They are in hardware stores, just ask for them. They are a little more expensive, so about twice as much as regular fittings
💯👍👍
Thanks for the thumbs up 👍
wtf, u guys in the uk are using millimeter pipes while we guys in the rest of europe are using inches lol
They moved to metric pipe years ago for domestic use, but on site we still use imperial ;-)
I never seen a plumber not use extra solder on the pre solder ring fittings ,,I guess not even plumbers trust them...
There is no need for extra solder, the manufacturers put the right amount in the fitting 👍
If a plumber is using these and adding extra solder, why are they using them at all? Genuine question
Thanks for the info. But do you know if these pipes are measured by their OD or ID?
OD, that way all of the fittings work with the pipe, such as pushfit, compression etc.
Thanks for the comment