I took the Black Water Cyclist's advice and got the 4 battery set up about 6 weeks ago. It has worked GREAT and I am extremely satisfied w/ my current setup. This has been the most useful bike hack channel for me by far! The tips about setting up overshifting and bending the contacts on the charger are great (I was using a stack of pennies behind each battery - derr :) My only (minor) caveat is that the battery level indicator on the phone app reads full with the 14250 batteries regardless of the actual state of charge - I assume it is because, even after running out of current, the total voltage (3.7V X 4) never gets below the threshold of the original batteries on full charge. I measured one of the dead 14250s at 2.46V. On the first charge I just let them run all the way down and it shifted me into the get me home gear - as designed - and died. My setup is a Shimano Linksys 11-51 cassette, SLX 12 speed der - made compatible by the Archer, and 2X chainrings on a recumbent trike - I am old so I needs the extra gears :)
I am so happy to hear that it is working well for you. Yeah I never really used the battery indicator for the stock batteries before so wasn't s big deal for me. Sounds like the perfect set up! I have debated doing a 2x14 set up, using the archer on the rear and a normal mech shifter up front.
I'm currently using my ekar 9-42 with a Shimano XT 12s chain and it works flawless, too. I let you know because it is a good option to avoid dremeling any chainring. I also designed a 42t extender for the ekar 9-36 that can be 3D printed in titanium or aluminum 7075, it is not difficult to design and fits properly without any washer.
This is great info! Yeah I actually have looked into doing a 3d printed extender for the Ekar. I want to do a 50t for the 10-44 cassette but that of course becomes very expensive. Send me a DM on Instagram or email me, would love to see your set up!
FYI: With a Shimano 12 speed setup I found the sifting to be a bit too slow towards the largest cogs. Running a tanpan resolved that issue and I think made everything quite a bit better. After setup the first day/ride there was a lot of cable stretch/settling leading to gradually worsening shifting, but it stopped happening after a readjustment. I'm curious if a tanpan or Problem Solver Travel Agent would increase shifting more?
I've had the D1x for almost 2 years. I have has so many problems with it. It's hard to keep it tuned for each gear, the batteries die in the middle of a ride even after only 2 or 3 2 hour rides, the battery in the shifter is difficult to change with the hex key without losing the bolts, using batteries in the shifter other than archer generally don't work and some are not steel on the end, so even a magnet will not pull them out, so I have to resort to placing the bike on a 45 degree angle and bouncing it until the batteries slide out, etc. I sprung for a SRAM shifter 2 weeks ago for about $500. It is SOOO much better. There is no need to individually tune each gear (although it's possible) and the batteries last for a very long time. I know Archer has redesigned the unit so the batteries on the shifter are external, which is much better; however, for a few extra dollars - if you can change the shifter - I would go with SRAM
Interesting on those batteries. I had found the same ones and Archer told me it would be too much voltage for the system. Or at least how the internals are rated. Anyway awesome to hear that it works!
I might buy this.. great Channel. In 🇩🇰 we have to buy it from r2. Not able to se from their website wether it is the sprint batteries they send with the unit or it is the standard batteries. Might just take the 12 gear 10-44 cassette from the sram rival xplr. Today i run 11 gear 10-42.
Thanks Alex! Yeah that is the beauty of the Archer set up is that it will work with any cassette you want. Can you get the smaller batteries I mentioned in the video?
Archer is not exactly wireless. It still uses a cable to actuate the RD. It's just that the cable doesn't run up to the shifter. Archer probably adds extra weight with having the motor attached to the chainstay and batteries in the motor housing and at the shifter end. I'm curious to know if shifting is faster than a pre-Archer modified drivetrain.
Wireless refers to electronic wires. BWC's mods make shifting about as fast cable actuated. You can set it up to do a long press that can dump the whole cassette is one or two shifts - that is very fast. The lithium batteries are very light and you are minus the cable, housing and mechanical shifter, so weight isnt a real concern. If you dont want or need electric shifting there is no reason to get it. I live in a hilly area and have to shift dozens of times just to do a short fitness loop.
mgreene888 replied appropriately to many of your comments. With the smaller batteries I mentioned in the video, I have found single shifts to be as fast as mechanical. Taken into account the extra throw you have to use on a mechanical shifter, it can be faster moving to larger cogs. As mgreene888 mentioned below, it isn't as fast as a mechanical set up on dumping the whole block or shifter like 3 or 4 gears at a time but it does have the hold down option and you can preset it to auto dump a certain number of gears. As far as weight goes, it is not much different than a mechanical set up. I know the Xshifter which is similar to the Archer is actually lighter than a mechanical set up but the Archer isn't as light but it is not far off. Now that their shift button remotes are smaller and lighter, it could be lighter than a mechanical set up.
Would it be tough to remove the weatherstripping cement if you need to change the cable housing? Do you think some kind of waterproofing tape could accomplish the same thing?
It would be fairly easy to remove the cement. It is more rubbery and can be picked off. Also it is just the housing end cap that is cemented in there, the housing can be taken in and out without dealing with the cement at all. Tape might work ok but the cement has proven itself. Tape can sometimes come off or become unraveled. Maybe some heat shrink but just make sure you don't melt anything else. Heat shrink would probably be harder to remove than the cement later.
Sorry for the delay, this will work: www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-FlashLight-Headlamp-Instrument-equipment/dp/B017R24AB8/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1V1THZ9ONRFEC&keywords=Rechargeable+14250+Battery&qid=1678391306&sprefix=rechargeable+14250+battery%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-8
i have the d1x and it should work, you just have to find a spot where it can fit, most of the time its on the chainstay, but the seatstay works just as well. also they sell a botte cage adapter so you can mount it there aswell and still use the bottle cage. the MFR ist the best choice for a TT :)
I took the Black Water Cyclist's advice and got the 4 battery set up about 6 weeks ago. It has worked GREAT and I am extremely satisfied w/ my current setup. This has been the most useful bike hack channel for me by far! The tips about setting up overshifting and bending the contacts on the charger are great (I was using a stack of pennies behind each battery - derr :) My only (minor) caveat is that the battery level indicator on the phone app reads full with the 14250 batteries regardless of the actual state of charge - I assume it is because, even after running out of current, the total voltage (3.7V X 4) never gets below the threshold of the original batteries on full charge. I measured one of the dead 14250s at 2.46V. On the first charge I just let them run all the way down and it shifted me into the get me home gear - as designed - and died. My setup is a Shimano Linksys 11-51 cassette, SLX 12 speed der - made compatible by the Archer, and 2X chainrings on a recumbent trike - I am old so I needs the extra gears :)
I am so happy to hear that it is working well for you. Yeah I never really used the battery indicator for the stock batteries before so wasn't s big deal for me. Sounds like the perfect set up! I have debated doing a 2x14 set up, using the archer on the rear and a normal mech shifter up front.
@@BlackWaterCyclist Hey, not to be a fan boy :) but this is the best shifting I have had on a recumbent.
I'm currently using my ekar 9-42 with a Shimano XT 12s chain and it works flawless, too. I let you know because it is a good option to avoid dremeling any chainring. I also designed a 42t extender for the ekar 9-36 that can be 3D printed in titanium or aluminum 7075, it is not difficult to design and fits properly without any washer.
This is great info! Yeah I actually have looked into doing a 3d printed extender for the Ekar. I want to do a 50t for the 10-44 cassette but that of course becomes very expensive. Send me a DM on Instagram or email me, would love to see your set up!
FYI: With a Shimano 12 speed setup I found the sifting to be a bit too slow towards the largest cogs. Running a tanpan resolved that issue and I think made everything quite a bit better. After setup the first day/ride there was a lot of cable stretch/settling leading to gradually worsening shifting, but it stopped happening after a readjustment. I'm curious if a tanpan or Problem Solver Travel Agent would increase shifting more?
I've had the D1x for almost 2 years. I have has so many problems with it. It's hard to keep it tuned for each gear, the batteries die in the middle of a ride even after only 2 or 3 2 hour rides, the battery in the shifter is difficult to change with the hex key without losing the bolts, using batteries in the shifter other than archer generally don't work and some are not steel on the end, so even a magnet will not pull them out, so I have to resort to placing the bike on a 45 degree angle and bouncing it until the batteries slide out, etc. I sprung for a SRAM shifter 2 weeks ago for about $500. It is SOOO much better. There is no need to individually tune each gear (although it's possible) and the batteries last for a very long time. I know Archer has redesigned the unit so the batteries on the shifter are external, which is much better; however, for a few extra dollars - if you can change the shifter - I would go with SRAM
Interesting on those batteries. I had found the same ones and Archer told me it would be too much voltage for the system. Or at least how the internals are rated. Anyway awesome to hear that it works!
Normally Archer rate the sytem up to 16v so, should be just under the limit with 4 time 3.7v ;)
I might buy this.. great Channel. In 🇩🇰 we have to buy it from r2. Not able to se from their website wether it is the sprint batteries they send with the unit or it is the standard batteries. Might just take the 12 gear 10-44 cassette from the sram rival xplr. Today i run 11 gear 10-42.
Thanks Alex! Yeah that is the beauty of the Archer set up is that it will work with any cassette you want. Can you get the smaller batteries I mentioned in the video?
@@BlackWaterCyclist i guess so 😊👍
If you look carefully to the picture on the R2 Bike site, you see 3 battery. So, they deliver it with the sprint pack ;)
Archer is not exactly wireless. It still uses a cable to actuate the RD. It's just that the cable doesn't run up to the shifter. Archer probably adds extra weight with having the motor attached to the chainstay and batteries in the motor housing and at the shifter end. I'm curious to know if shifting is faster than a pre-Archer modified drivetrain.
Wireless refers to electronic wires. BWC's mods make shifting about as fast cable actuated. You can set it up to do a long press that can dump the whole cassette is one or two shifts - that is very fast. The lithium batteries are very light and you are minus the cable, housing and mechanical shifter, so weight isnt a real concern. If you dont want or need electric shifting there is no reason to get it. I live in a hilly area and have to shift dozens of times just to do a short fitness loop.
mgreene888 replied appropriately to many of your comments. With the smaller batteries I mentioned in the video, I have found single shifts to be as fast as mechanical. Taken into account the extra throw you have to use on a mechanical shifter, it can be faster moving to larger cogs. As mgreene888 mentioned below, it isn't as fast as a mechanical set up on dumping the whole block or shifter like 3 or 4 gears at a time but it does have the hold down option and you can preset it to auto dump a certain number of gears.
As far as weight goes, it is not much different than a mechanical set up. I know the Xshifter which is similar to the Archer is actually lighter than a mechanical set up but the Archer isn't as light but it is not far off. Now that their shift button remotes are smaller and lighter, it could be lighter than a mechanical set up.
Thanks for the super accurate reply to The One.
I’m planning to run a flattop chain with the Ekar cassette. Which specific Force AXS type is compatible?
Would it be tough to remove the weatherstripping cement if you need to change the cable housing? Do you think some kind of waterproofing tape could accomplish the same thing?
It would be fairly easy to remove the cement. It is more rubbery and can be picked off. Also it is just the housing end cap that is cemented in there, the housing can be taken in and out without dealing with the cement at all. Tape might work ok but the cement has proven itself. Tape can sometimes come off or become unraveled. Maybe some heat shrink but just make sure you don't melt anything else. Heat shrink would probably be harder to remove than the cement later.
Would work on a road bike with 410mm chainstay or it would be too much cross chain?
Hi Kalvi, I used it on a bike with 395mm chainstays and it worked great. You will have zero issues with a 410mm chainstay
@@BlackWaterCyclist Oh, great to read. I'm very very close to finally decide to order one Stocky's 14s cassette
Archer Components has ceased operations (but will still provide warranty service) according to their website.
WOAH!!! That's big news. I was wondering how they would do with all the new stuff coming out of China. Thanks for the heads up!
Can you provide the link for the battery that you used?
Sorry for the delay, this will work: www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-FlashLight-Headlamp-Instrument-equipment/dp/B017R24AB8/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1V1THZ9ONRFEC&keywords=Rechargeable+14250+Battery&qid=1678391306&sprefix=rechargeable+14250+battery%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-8
Possible to install on a tt bike?
i have the d1x and it should work, you just have to find a spot where it can fit, most of the time its on the chainstay, but the seatstay works just as well. also they sell a botte cage adapter so you can mount it there aswell and still use the bottle cage. the MFR ist the best choice for a TT :)
14 speed is what is interesting to me... What??? 🤔
Inspiring video. Thank you Sir.