beware tyre changes and always adjust the chain with bike on sidestand... garage I used didnt, and it completely destroyed the retaining washer... so much so that the chain ended up moving on to the swing arm and grinding a grove in it.... common problem apparently
Good video. One thought/question, the Haynes manual says you need a special tool to hold the clutch when torquing up the bolts but I note you didn't use/need one. Am I missing something? Thanks.
The tool is only needed when torquing big nut in the middle which sits on the primary shaft and holds the clutch housing. If you are just replacing clutch pack like I did, this is not needed
yes, apparently alot of these bikes had clutch tension set too tight from factory so they were getting worn much faster. There is alot of similar cases on Ducati forums
Hi, great video - just one thing.. when you're putting the plates back in did you find that the 1st 2 plates(plate and 'washer') sit almost proud of the boss clutch - so when you put it back in that 1st washer 'slips' off, and getting the boss clutch fully in is very fiddly - I'm going to us some grease to 'glue' that first washer in so it doesnt slip - is this what you did?
Good to see that that you managed, I think putting the bike on a paddock stand also helps so that the clutch goes in straight with no incline so the washer doesnt fall
@@pullumoto I thought of the paddock stand too, to stop the slide - but I dont have one.. so got a big block of wood under kick stand so it was nearly vertical... along with lots of grease ;) - I've not finished yet... kinda stuck again getting the contol pin back in the clutch lifter but so pissed off with it(and myself) that I'm having a break lol... I'll drop a video/more explanation tomorrow - If I havent passed away from excessive liquid gasket fumes ;)
Hi, just on the oil filter replacement etc... I see that its 42nm's for the drain plug - my torque wrench only goes to 26.5... and having consulted a few mechs re this, they all thought 42 was quite excessive - did you go all the way to 42nm's?
Nice Video, Just to confirm are you from Malta, If so can you confirm from where i can parts for the ducati scrambler nightshift like Oil filter, timing belts, etc. Thanks in advanced.
Hey man, my buddy has a 2015 800cc scrambler. The dealership said that there could be 2 different types of clutches in there, and they don’t know which one he has until they open it up? How did you know which one you have? Thanks for the video.
There are 2 types of clutch packs available: APTC and FCC The clutch pack that I used in this video is APTC There are 3 things I looked out for in an APTC clutch: Bike acts like it has a slipper clutch(try downshifting hard and see if the rear wheel slips) Bike is European APTC has six screws on the pusher plate vs FCC just three(this needs to be checked visually)
@@pullumoto ok, thank you. So really I could just take the cover plate off and look at the pusher plate? Unfortunately the clutch is so bad right now that it just slips no matter what really. My friend is a new rider and kinda didn’t know that’s what was happening, cause he didn’t know any different. Thanks for your help
If you lean the bike on the stator side and remove the clutch cover the oil shouldnt spill and you can re attach it. Out of curiosity is it also the cable operated clutch or hydraulic? cause the cable clutches get worn so much faster it seems
@@2.0_brittt Mine failed(or started slipping/biting) at 20k miles - WRS parts in Italy are blooody good - delivered Newfren clutch plate kit to UK in 4 days... even with courier from italy, it was still cheaper( aLOT) than buying in UK....
Hei quick question: with the new clutch set, approximately where is the friction zone in the lever feel? How far from the grip does it start to engage?
@@pullumoto Yes, I have the stock levers and I adjusted the cable to its max to get the friction zone closer to the bar. I still have to release it quite far for it to engage. Maybe time for a new cable or an adjustable lever. Thanks for the reply!
Did you adjust from both end? Even under the fuel tank adjustment cause that usually makes the biggest difference. In my case I replaced the clutch cable also at some point so yeah that could be it.
@@pullumoto yes, both ends. The one under the tank I had to extend it all the way to the end of possible threads and the one from the lever about mid way just to give it the required 3-5mm play. It's ok-ish now but I'd still like it to engage closer
presume you got an answer to this? I jammed a large flathead screwdriver into the oil filler and gently levered off... no way a few taps with a rubber mallet would get it off
Thank you for the scrambler maintanance videos. Its good to know whats ahead of me. Keep up the good videos.
Glad you like them! Thankfully Scrambler is one of the easiest ducati to work on
beware tyre changes and always adjust the chain with bike on sidestand... garage I used didnt, and it completely destroyed the retaining washer... so much so that the chain ended up moving on to the swing arm and grinding a grove in it.... common problem apparently
EXCELLENT video, my friend.
Glad you liked it 🙂
Good video. One thought/question, the Haynes manual says you need a special tool to hold the clutch when torquing up the bolts but I note you didn't use/need one. Am I missing something? Thanks.
The tool is only needed when torquing big nut in the middle which sits on the primary shaft and holds the clutch housing. If you are just replacing clutch pack like I did, this is not needed
Thanks for the video. Good job. So, my question is: do you know the root case of premature (20K) wear?
yes, apparently alot of these bikes had clutch tension set too tight from factory so they were getting worn much faster. There is alot of similar cases on Ducati forums
Thanks for uploading...
That clutch brand is new to me, how does it perform now compared with oem.
I did not feel any difference from oem, so far so good no issues at all
Nice to see you're using a torque wrench!
always where possible 🙂
Hi, great video - just one thing.. when you're putting the plates back in did you find that the 1st 2 plates(plate and 'washer') sit almost proud of the boss clutch - so when you put it back in that 1st washer 'slips' off, and getting the boss clutch fully in is very fiddly - I'm going to us some grease to 'glue' that first washer in so it doesnt slip - is this what you did?
A couple of gobs of grease on the first washer kept it in place - after 5 million attempts without grease... only took a couple of goes with grease...
Good to see that that you managed, I think putting the bike on a paddock stand also helps so that the clutch goes in straight with no incline so the washer doesnt fall
@@pullumoto I thought of the paddock stand too, to stop the slide - but I dont have one.. so got a big block of wood under kick stand so it was nearly vertical... along with lots of grease ;) - I've not finished yet... kinda stuck again getting the contol pin back in the clutch lifter but so pissed off with it(and myself) that I'm having a break lol... I'll drop a video/more explanation tomorrow - If I havent passed away from excessive liquid gasket fumes ;)
Great video, where did you get the clutch from pls? Im Maltese too :)
Hey it's from from ebay, there is a link in description for the exact one I bought 🙂
Hi, just on the oil filter replacement etc... I see that its 42nm's for the drain plug - my torque wrench only goes to 26.5... and having consulted a few mechs re this, they all thought 42 was quite excessive - did you go all the way to 42nm's?
Yeah honestly it is quite excessive I decided to hand tighten it and it's still good after a year. My hypermotard for example is 20Nm it's very weird
Nice Video, Just to confirm are you from Malta, If so can you confirm from where i can parts for the ducati scrambler nightshift like Oil filter, timing belts, etc. Thanks in advanced.
Yes from malta 🙂 servicing parts from biker bitz bkara
@@pullumoto Thanks siehbi, I am subsribed :) keep up the good content.
Thanks bro🙌🏼
Hey man, my buddy has a 2015 800cc scrambler. The dealership said that there could be 2 different types of clutches in there, and they don’t know which one he has until they open it up? How did you know which one you have? Thanks for the video.
There are 2 types of clutch packs available: APTC and FCC
The clutch pack that I used in this video is APTC
There are 3 things I looked out for in an APTC clutch:
Bike acts like it has a slipper clutch(try downshifting hard and see if the rear wheel slips)
Bike is European
APTC has six screws on the pusher plate vs FCC just three(this needs to be checked visually)
@@pullumoto ok, thank you. So really I could just take the cover plate off and look at the pusher plate? Unfortunately the clutch is so bad right now that it just slips no matter what really. My friend is a new rider and kinda didn’t know that’s what was happening, cause he didn’t know any different. Thanks for your help
If you lean the bike on the stator side and remove the clutch cover the oil shouldnt spill and you can re attach it. Out of curiosity is it also the cable operated clutch or hydraulic? cause the cable clutches get worn so much faster it seems
@@pullumoto it’s a cable clutch. Only 12k miles on it too, but yeah I guess they wear quickly
@@2.0_brittt Mine failed(or started slipping/biting) at 20k miles - WRS parts in Italy are blooody good - delivered Newfren clutch plate kit to UK in 4 days... even with courier from italy, it was still cheaper( aLOT) than buying in UK....
不错，自己可以动手换了
Hei quick question: with the new clutch set, approximately where is the friction zone in the lever feel? How far from the grip does it start to engage?
I'd say about halfway from releasing the lever, about 3cm from the lever to closest point on lever(if you have stock ones)
@@pullumoto Yes, I have the stock levers and I adjusted the cable to its max to get the friction zone closer to the bar. I still have to release it quite far for it to engage. Maybe time for a new cable or an adjustable lever.
Thanks for the reply!
Did you adjust from both end? Even under the fuel tank adjustment cause that usually makes the biggest difference. In my case I replaced the clutch cable also at some point so yeah that could be it.
@@pullumoto yes, both ends. The one under the tank I had to extend it all the way to the end of possible threads and the one from the lever about mid way just to give it the required 3-5mm play. It's ok-ish now but I'd still like it to engage closer
How to did u get the Cover Platte off ?
presume you got an answer to this? I jammed a large flathead screwdriver into the oil filler and gently levered off... no way a few taps with a rubber mallet would get it off
Those 3 springs gave me tough times
yeah they are a bit of a pain, thankfully I didn't lose any of them 😅