6:1 Compound Pulley System
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- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2014
- The compound 6:1 pulley is a simple and effective pulley system for moving heavy loads or when there's a lot of friction in the system. The drawback of the 6:1, compared to the 5:1, is that you have to reset the tractor AND the clove hitch when hauling (with the 5:1 you just reset the tractor).
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Thanks for posting this video and especially for explaining the difference between the 5:1 and the 6:1. Hard to find resources that differentiates between the two.
Seems like using another prusik instead of a clove hitch would make it much easier to adjust
Yeah, it certainly can, but generally speaking I don't cary 2 friction hitches.
@@sietschoolforinternational5234 Because why? They are very light and pack small.
@@sietschoolforinternational5234 you don't carry a leg friction hitch? What if you need to ascend?
Question: I see you have a master point and then a point where you (the climber) are tied in. Why are these different? When I build an anchor, I create one master point and tie into and belay from that one point. Is this just for clarity?
Many people like to separate the places they tie things into to help keep things organized and easy to visually check. Note that if you do tie into the shelf, it needs to be redundant.
Beginner question: under the time building pulley systems, you seem to stop belaying the second climber. What if the second climber falls under the time you are vuilding the pulley system?
The reason you'd use this is because the 2nd climber has already weighted the rope and is unable to continue (fatigue/injury/ability etc.). Don't confuse this with a belay technique. It's a rescue technique, not a belay technique (you can also use it to haul loads). If the climber is able to continue on their own power, just top belay as normal.
They should have tied a catastrophe knot in the brake Strand to guarantee the climber couldn't fall too far while building it.
why isnt he tied on?
5:02 he pulls directly towards the void without being attached!
Looks like a big drop. Doesn't look like anyone is listening.
huge ledge
Hi Sean, thanks for the reply. To be clear, it is entirely up to you. Personally, I think if you are putting out instructional videos you should be tied on. There is no downside to it. Best wishes anyway.
Isn't this the same as 5:1 system, just that you use the same rope not a sling or additional rope?
It's different because the 2:1 is attached to the pull strand of the 3:1 whereas the 5:1 has the 2:1 attached to the loaded rope via the tractor. This subtle difference makes a small difference in mechanical advantage but a big difference in the amount that you need to reset the friction hitches.
Yes i noticed that, so i deleted the comment. And i tried to experiment with both systems and compare them to eachother but there is really not a big difference, because of all the friction between rope and carabiners, one friend who was pulling actually said it was even more difficult. I improved a little when i added an additional sliding retractor point, but then you have to assist reverso to take the slack :-/
Uroš Žvokelj oh, and i also experienced that garda knot works even better then reverso when taking up progress slack, except when it needs to be released
+Uroš Žvokelj Yes, it's very difficult to release the garda hitch and with some 'biners and/or combinations of 'biners, they can be very unreliable (can actually fail).
Ok I’m gonna be a nerd here. A six to one can be a compound haul system like this guy did. Which is different then a 5 to one, since a 5 to 1 can’t be a compound system. Also the easiest way to tell an odd vs an even system is where the terminating knot is. If it’s on the load side (climber) it’s odd. If it’s on the anchor side it’s even.
Thanks for this cool technique, will try it out. Seems much better than 5:1 in terms of resets.
My daughter belays me, she’s lighter and we multi pitch, so I want to make sure she can haul me…
I’m experimenting with bypassing the ATC on the anchor with a temporary Prussik to replace it with a petzl fixe and tibloc 2 (similar to a traction pulley), as well as replacing hauling carabiners with petzl oscillating pulleys. Does that speak to anyone? I would expect more efficiency, but is it worth the trouble?
I do rope rescue for a living. That set up speaks to me for sure.
@@ryancorsaut5177 Nope... Tblock not good for hauling better use vt prusik
ONce you clip in to the redirect, how does it not become a 9:1?
A redirect in this scenario does not add mechanical advantage, it only changes the direction that you are pulling. You only create mechanical advantage when you clip a pulley on the load or the rope that does to the load.
If instead of using a separate end of the rope to make a 2:1, couldn't you just continue using the same brake end of the rope, run it back up to the anchor, then down to a second prusik or clove hitch on itself- I believe that would make a 3:1 on a 3:1, which equals 9:1
Worth consideration, but more is not necessarily better. 9:1 for a litter team, but v.slow without assistants and longer work-length.
I also consider the weight of pulleys or biner-pulleys to reduce friction, depending on my objectives & roping needs.
So Step 1: Untie myself from the rope. Got it!
Was thinking the same thing.