Übrigens: ein StepDrill und IsopropylAlcohol IPA (als Kühlmittel) empfand ich persönlich als perfekt zum bohren von Löchern in Aluminium - keine ausgefransten oder "ovale/eckige" Löcher und mittels Stepdrill kannst du das Loch in einem Arbeitsschritt gleich mit ansenken :) Super Video und danke für all die Dateien auf deinem GitHub :D
@kittydyson Thank you for enjoying the music. No, there is no further release of the music. I jam each films score for the purpose of background music, only.
Hi my only question would be if instead of doing 2 3Us and 1 1U can I do 3 3Us and still follow your plan all the way through? , of course adjusted measurements for the case would be needed Thank you I hope you reply
@@SloBloLabs thanks a lot man for answering so fast. I really appreciate your interest. I hope you make a video conducting this beast of a modular you got there :) cheers
Question about those PSU's - can you hook that virtual ground into mains earth/ground? I have a hard time seeing exactly in the video. Looking at a block diagram of the psu it seems the -V output is connected internally to ground via a cap. Not sure I understand what this means in regards to connecting this to other gear in the case of putting them in series like you do. The one thing I know is I really need 0V to be connected to mains earth…
@@SloBloLabs Ah, rewatched, I must have skipped the first time :) Can I ask you - why did you leave it open in the video? Have you used this with other grounded equipment? I guess if you want to connect to anything but a pair of headphones, you really need to have a common ground in mains earth, right?
Viktor Hedefalk IYes, it’s a good idea to have the connection implemented using the jumper. At the time of creation my opinion was not yet strong enough, so I made it an option instead to be able to check both states.
Hey I want to build the first bottom case, in Blender it says 19mm wood but in the video you are using 18mm wood, so what should I use? Sorry, this is a little bit nervy but if you see this, can you answer fast, because I bought the 104 HP rails already and cant wait to start.
Ben SRte Hi Ben, you need to prepare for the wood to will shrink a bit over time from all ends. So my advice would be to apply some tolerances on the measures anyway and to not force the metal into the wooden parts, as this is going to put forces into the case which may exeed with high temperature changes.
Hi @Brewster Bee, thx for asking. I‘m still pretty happy with the DIY cases, but is definitely made for studio purposes, only. So next time I would consider a more travelling oriented solution featuring more robustness and a cover that allows the case to stay patched inside.
Calling a pcb "low noise" doesn't make it so when the design is completely wrong. You have put PTCs, which have resistance, in the worst possible place where the currents of every module will sum to produce a voltage drop. It is called Common Impedance Coupling--look it up. You don't need a PTC or a fuse anyway as PSUs have output protection which will work faster. PTCs are the wrong device as when you have a load near their value they will trip after a time--look up their characteristic curves. You have exposed mains wiring and then think that earthing is optional! A modular synthesizer is a Class I device and must be earthed for safety. If that causes audio problems with other equipment that has to be solved without removing the safety earth. Also as a German you should be well aware that your mains plugs have a 50% chance of being the right way around, yet you use a single fuse and a single pole switch which might be in the Neutral side instead of the Live. You may enjoy making all this, but it does not meet the CE Low Voltage Directive and would be illegal to sell. To be fair there any many cases being sold that are equally bad, but that does not excuse copying them.
Thx @hintoninstruments2369 for your valuable feedback. Schematic and PCB design are revised considering your input and video description is updated accordingly.
@@SloBloLabs You can get rubber boots that fit over the back of mains inlets. That strip welded between the pin and fuse is live even with the switch off and the fuse blown so it should be covered. Mounting a mains inlet on a wooden case is asking for it to get smashed. It would be better to cut a larger hole in the case and mount the inlet on a small piece of aluminium screwed to the inside so that the inlet sits in a recess. The PSUs should be adjusted with all the modules loading it which means that you have to be able to get a screwdriver in when everything is in place. I really don't understand why so many people build cases with closed backs. It is far more useful to make a 19" rack section and mount the PSUs and distribution on 19" panels, then you can access them when all the modules are screwed in.
YOU ARE MY HERO. Well planned, perfectly executed, and a star is born... :hat1:
Danke, das hat sehr weiter geholfen, gute Arbeit, gut gemacht.
Übrigens: ein StepDrill und IsopropylAlcohol IPA (als Kühlmittel) empfand ich persönlich als perfekt zum bohren von Löchern in Aluminium - keine ausgefransten oder "ovale/eckige" Löcher und mittels Stepdrill kannst du das Loch in einem Arbeitsschritt gleich mit ansenken :)
Super Video und danke für all die Dateien auf deinem GitHub :D
jesus what an overkill well done man
Bravo! A masterwork!
Very neat build!
Geiles case...
Grüße aus Wien 🇦🇹 🤟
Der Synth ist auch in diesem Video zu sehen: ruclips.net/video/su5TSinIRLs/видео.html
Awesome video! I would love to see a tutorial on how you did the modeling with Blender
Gareth Sloan Thx! Anything specific you would be interested in to see on the modeling topic?
holy crap that background music. I take it's some of your jams? have you posted it anywhere?
@kittydyson Thank you for enjoying the music. No, there is no further release of the music. I jam each films score for the purpose of background music, only.
My boy you did an amazing job
Very nice!
Hi my only question would be if instead of doing 2 3Us and 1 1U can I do 3 3Us and still follow your plan all the way through? , of course adjusted measurements for the case would be needed Thank you I hope you reply
John Smith Hi John, sure. Power juice should be enough for a full third row. A few measures on the wood and metal build need to be aligned of course.
SloBlo great design and execution. Thanks for sharing. I can't find the specific resettable fuses is there an alternative for those?
Hi skourkos crew, thanx for your comment. I checked again and the mouser part is in stock as far as I can see. Look for 652-MF-RX160/72-0
@@SloBloLabs thanks a lot man for answering so fast. I really appreciate your interest. I hope you make a video conducting this beast of a modular you got there :) cheers
Did you buy the rails with or without holes? & the threaded strips what size?
Hi Vader, you buy threaded strips as a separate item from the same vendor.
Question about those PSU's - can you hook that virtual ground into mains earth/ground? I have a hard time seeing exactly in the video.
Looking at a block diagram of the psu it seems the -V output is connected internally to ground via a cap. Not sure I understand what this means in regards to connecting this to other gear in the case of putting them in series like you do. The one thing I know is I really need 0V to be connected to mains earth…
Viktor Hedefalk Thats what the jumper on the board is for. You can choose to connect means ground to virtual ground or leave it open.
@@SloBloLabs Ah, rewatched, I must have skipped the first time :) Can I ask you - why did you leave it open in the video? Have you used this with other grounded equipment? I guess if you want to connect to anything but a pair of headphones, you really need to have a common ground in mains earth, right?
Viktor Hedefalk IYes, it’s a good idea to have the connection implemented using the jumper. At the time of creation my opinion was not yet strong enough, so I made it an option instead to be able to check both states.
10:58 Mit den Schuhn aufm Teppich, wenn Mutti das sieht (⊙_⊙;)
What kind of screws did you use to connect the rails with the sidepanels? I bought the same rails but I can't find a working screw.
Standard M5 metric countersunk bolts will work just fine.
@@SloBloLabs This is what I needed to know. Thank you!
Hey I want to build the first bottom case, in Blender it says 19mm wood but in the video you are using 18mm wood, so what should I use? Sorry, this is a little bit nervy but if you see this, can you answer fast, because I bought the 104 HP rails already and cant wait to start.
Ben SRte Hi Ben, you need to prepare for the wood to will shrink a bit over time from all ends. So my advice would be to apply some tolerances on the measures anyway and to not force the metal into the wooden parts, as this is going to put forces into the case which may exeed with high temperature changes.
@@SloBloLabs thank you for the instructions and the video! Im finished :) Everything is a little bit tight, but I think it will work.
Hi there, it is possible to have the specific PTC number or model please?
charlie popper Hi Charlie, you will find the component reference within the BOM in the github repo.
Do you have any spare pcbs? I'd love to buy one if you do.
Neil Moffat I have full kits available, PCB incl. components. If interested you can pn me on facebook messenger, pls.
@@buzz2166 Im interested on getting a PCB where can I buy it from you?
Hi guys, I have spare PCB kits incl. components but without PSU in stock. Kindly reach out to me using fb messenger. Thx!
Q: .. would you do anything different now??
Hi @Brewster Bee, thx for asking. I‘m still pretty happy with the DIY cases, but is definitely made for studio purposes, only. So next time I would consider a more travelling oriented solution featuring more robustness and a cover that allows the case to stay patched inside.
Calling a pcb "low noise" doesn't make it so when the design is completely wrong. You have put PTCs, which have resistance, in the worst possible place where the currents of every module will sum to produce a voltage drop. It is called Common Impedance Coupling--look it up. You don't need a PTC or a fuse anyway as PSUs have output protection which will work faster. PTCs are the wrong device as when you have a load near their value they will trip after a time--look up their characteristic curves.
You have exposed mains wiring and then think that earthing is optional! A modular synthesizer is a Class I device and must be earthed for safety. If that causes audio problems with other equipment that has to be solved without removing the safety earth.
Also as a German you should be well aware that your mains plugs have a 50% chance of being the right way around, yet you use a single fuse and a single pole switch which might be in the Neutral side instead of the Live.
You may enjoy making all this, but it does not meet the CE Low Voltage Directive and would be illegal to sell. To be fair there any many cases being sold that are equally bad, but that does not excuse copying them.
Thx @hintoninstruments2369 for your valuable feedback. Schematic and PCB design are revised considering your input and video description is updated accordingly.
@@SloBloLabs You can get rubber boots that fit over the back of mains inlets. That strip welded between the pin and fuse is live even with the switch off and the fuse blown so it should be covered.
Mounting a mains inlet on a wooden case is asking for it to get smashed. It would be better to cut a larger hole in the case and mount the inlet on a small piece of aluminium screwed to the inside so that the inlet sits in a recess.
The PSUs should be adjusted with all the modules loading it which means that you have to be able to get a screwdriver in when everything is in place. I really don't understand why so many people build cases with closed backs. It is far more useful to make a 19" rack section and mount the PSUs and distribution on 19" panels, then you can access them when all the modules are screwed in.
Warum macht man als Deutscher ein solche ein Video in englischer Sprache, wenn man Deutscher ist? Dennoch Klasse Video aber sehr zeitintensiv!