Loudness & box design
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- How loud can a speaker get or how about how loud is even loud?
I share some basic with you on my blog which reflects some real life application to how cool it is to know how loud something is, within the video we tackle comparing three 18" speakers to see which can be the loudest.
I don't cover all the graphs, only I share the concept of loudness within winisd looking at 3 basic graphs, with the next enclosure design guide including the maximum acoustic power graph. Peace Love and respect Fam 
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*One extra thing to add these kinds of vids is why i always tell people to stick to the woofers that are not the absolute most expensive or rated at the highest power but to instead climb 3/4s up that ladder and check which woofer at that cost/Power ratings and or SPL is good for your application and then buy those drivers until a need for the higher end is need*
I highlight this in the full blog post here www.thesoundguy.co.za/blog/Loudness. Pa applications aside, for car and home audio if you just want a nice sounding system you really don't need much at all to have a good time!
Shit at 29min 36sec or so you did not change the lavoce back to 9mm from 12mm or did i miss that? As that does change which sub might be "Louder" hehe just wanted to point that out my G other then that this is very good content for beginner box designers.
Well spotted Erik, though it is important to note I had loaded the driver to show how Winisd might show an error & left it at that within the early part of the video. The B&C and the Fane 18XB are loaded with the brands calculated Xmax so in truth I still should smash on another 1mm onto that value of 12mm for the Lavoce Safe184.03.
@@The-Sound-Guy yes no plus that difference might not relate much to peak spl i mean 9mm to 12mm is not a giant amount of more excursion.
You have not to change graphs if something is not refreshed or if the program displays a white screen. This is enough to click on a selected menu item yet more time.
And I didn't get why you did not consider the lowest frequency a driver can play at a max power? If we take 30Hz for example as the lowest required frequency, then all big drivers can utilize only 550 watts, and the small driver can handle only 200 watts. Could you spot on this briefly sir?
Hello my friend, sometimes the graph does not automatically updated - go to a new menu and back again changes the graph.
The speaker is able to play to the drivers Fs or 30hz in a large enclosure, this is up to you and the design choice you make!
Here because im used to tuning a certain way im quickly just reviewing the rough enclosure size, not designing for purpose to be subwoofer it's more of an overview.
@Sco0or my advice is to always remember that any speaker ultimately will reach Xmax sooner in a large enclosure, when this happens distortion sets in very fast without a good high pass filter which will also "Cut out" some low frequencies. This means a balance must be found between a large box for deep bass extension or a smaller box for higher levels of output which is typically Half of "Vas" Value. Larger box will increase group delay, smaller box better group delay and better cone control.. my opinion -6dB@45Hz F3 in the smallest design possible is best for most 18"
@@The-Sound-Guy A smaller box makes a group delay smaller for very low frequencies, but at the same time increases a group delay for 30-50Hz which is more important than 20Hz. Besides, it's hard to get 50msecs for 20Hz (in most cases the delay is smaller for that frequency), but it's pretty difficult to limit a group delay below 8msecs for 40Hz.
I'd rather agree to have 40msecs for 20Hz than 12msecs for 40Hz
And HPF is a disaster for a group delay (( I'd rather spend yet more 200-500 eur for an additional driver, or to select a driver with higher SPL sacrificing something else, than to use a HPF. This is for a home hi-fi of course. PA uses different requirements.
And thank you very much for the information.