My CV axel popped out when I was doing this🤣😂🙌. I put it back together and it still rides better than when I bought it, used. I always leave things better than how they found me!
We still have our 2011 Honda Pilot here in Virginia. We’ve been to Minneapolis twice, Chicago, Disney, along with many trips to the Outer Banks of North Carolina, and it’s been a great vehicle! Recently, a mechanic told me it needed shocks and struts and they price would be $1400. This makes me feel like it could do it myself. I would just need the proper tools first. Thanks for the great video, you definitely made it look easy!
Man, you just saved me a lot of money! THANK YOU!. Awesome video easy to follow. I just replaced my wifes Pilot's Struts with your help. thank you again for taking that time to make these videos and for savings us some money!
I highly recommend the yellow Bilstein b6 for the pilot. I have had front and rear bilsteins on my 2011 pilot for about 1 year. Handles and rides so much better than stock. Corners so much tighter and car like. Ride is not bumpy or stiff either
@@josiahley11 I have updated the video link….they are from Amazon at a pretty good price considering what all you get in this kit here you go …amzn.to/3T2DiqL
Thanks for the video. I was able to change the struts and shocks on my 2013 Honda Pilot. Getting the nut off the left control arm was a bear. If I didn't have an impact hammer I don't know if I could have got it off. The bottom bolt on the left rear shock was even worse. I had to use a breaker bar with a 3 foot iron rod on it to get enough leverage to break that one before I could unscrew it. I discovered that my existing right rear shock was broken so glad I got new ones. Amazon is the way to go cause for a complete set only cost me about $300. Costs about that much for one strut at the auto parts store.
Hi, I'm about to take on this project this weekend on our 2011 Honda Pilot, too. I'll be using your video for guidance all the way. I just wanted to ask if we need to torque each nut? If so, do you what lbs torque for each? Thank you.
Thanks for the video ! I had the same issue with the strut being stamped as the right side. On the Front driver side strut, it was stamped “FR” I’m guessing Front Right? It was an OEM. I ordered the same kit you are using . But the new strut that matches driver side is labeled as FL. All bolted up the way it should.. 👍
If you don’t mind, please show us the defective parts next time and explaining why it’s bad and how we can tell that they are bad. Very educating video. I really appreciate people like you!!!, thank you
I just did all 4 struts and coils on my 2010 Pilot. I went with Monroe. I also used a 1 inch leveling kit for the rear. No more droopy butt lol The alignment is off now though, as expected. Steering wheel is slightly turned to the right. No pulling though surprisingly. But the truck drives so much better. No more bouncing. I got 210K miles on my pilot. I just did all 4 rotors and brakes too. Ceramic pads with cross drilled and slotted rotors. I got new tires coming in also. The mount balance and alignment will all get done within a week or 2!
210K, I'd also be watching some videos on how to replace the timing belt and water pump. I love my Honda and Toyotas! My current fleet: 05 Honda Element 240K 06 Honda Pilot 245K 08 Prius 230K 2011 Prius 195K 2019 Toyota Tacoma 230K The Tacoma is about to be replaced with a 2024 Tacoma. I rarely see any domestics making these kinds of numbers.
Thanks for the vid. You made it look super easy. I just bought a used 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L and I think it might have issues in rack and pinion or sway bars. But if it's shocks/struts I know what to recommend. One thought as you are unassembling and reassembling is to write on screen what you're removing/adding and maybe numeric steps. Would help us newbs :)
First, thanks so much GasDiesel Garage, I got my wife's Pilot, Milly, all done this week. I did get the Monroe Struts you mentioned in one of the comments below, they are super nice. Both strut assemblies still had FR on the top of them. I was thinking I got the shaft, and someone shipped me two passenger side parts. There were part numbers underneath the rubber, those clarified what assembly went to each side. The manufacturer (Monroe) confirmed that both passenger and driver sides will have FR on them. I didn't ask, but maybe that FR is an indication as to which bolt goes forward? IDK. Thanks a million though, not only was this fun, but something to be proud of for this desk worker. Going on my resume' for sure. :)
Only difference for the fronts is the bracket locations for the brake hose and sway bar mount, strut, spring, and mount are the same, just have to flip the bracket mounts
Love this video. My 2012 Pilot has 126k miles with original shocks and struts. Your video gives me the confidence to do this! Great lighting, clear imagery, and great explanation. My only recommendation is to turn down the music, or better yet, just keep talking through it. You're funny.😊
Great video! Word of advice: avoid aftermarket full damper assemblies AKA "quick struts" like the one shown in the video at all cost for Pilots/Ridgeline/Odyssey/MDX. They are universally crap. Instead, buy an OEM full damper assembly, if you can (especially if you live in US, where there's plenty of online OEM Honda/Acura stores that have great prices and will ship to you). Basically, there is no reason not to get the OEM assemblies (unless thy have been discontinued, like for the MDX, for example), because the price you pay will be almost identical to the aftermarket ones (that will serve you for a decade or more). Good luck!
Discontinued for pilots now. Is there any aftermarket that are safe to buy assembled? It’s the only way I’d be able to do this myself. I sunk a lot of money into repairs and need to save where I can.
Well, I enjoy your video. Do you have a couple suggestions. Please include things like torque specifications, tips, or things to watch out for, when do use Loctite are Everease. Remember many of viewers may not be as experienced in making repairs. Every little bit of info helps. You can even add some info as on screen text.
No sir I didn’t have to…remember the rear on front wheel drive pilots..the suspension is supported by the rear springs. So yes you can change the shocks without jacking it up.
These videos are great! I was able to do do all the work myself after watching, the ride on the truck now is not even comparable. Needed an alignment before hand so getting that done. I did have a question, the ABS and VSA lights come on, I seen a comment about the AbS and VSA needing resets? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try to find out if there’s any “codes” stored in the car computer…if you don’t have a code reader…..Autoparts stores can tell you for free I believe…you’re always welcome to hit me back and I can help you further
Curious how the pilot drove after the upgrade? My 2014 pilot ride is a little harsh and would like to upgrade to something a little more forgiving on just regular New England roads. Suggestions for upgrades for a more comfortable ride? Just did new tires and ride is better but was looking for more
So looking in the factory service manual, both sides have FR on the top mount. It actually means that part goes towards the front. I was a little worried because I just bought some new aftermarket mounts, and they said they were the same both sides, but when I opened the box, they both say FR. Fortunately the manual set me straight.
Thank you for your video. It really encourage me to take tools and do the job. Couple suggestions if you want to do this job at the street or in your garage. 24 mill bolts are impossible to take with out the help of the 1/2 impact gun. 17 mill bolt or the sway bar usually extremely rusted and impossible to unscrew. Be ready to buy new sway bar. Ather then that job cab be done. Two thumbs up.
With the rear shocks you can actually do it without jacking it up ..unless you’re taking the tires of but it’s not necessary. But if I were using the jack I place it in the middle of the rear crossmember and if you have the all wheel drive pilot…place the jack under the rear differential and use jackstands on either side…
I like your style. The video is nicely shot and you really explained things. What would be an indicator or two that you need to replace your front struts. I’m hearing some knocking when traveling over bumps and I have about 175k mi. Last year I changed the rear shocks bc they were shot. Thanks for the help and support
So sorry I miss read what you were saying…yes unfortunately the front struts were so noisy going over bumps and my tires were starting to get flat spots (cupping) is the official diagnosis term but yes because of those two reasons is why I replaced them. Yes my pilot was at 180k at the time of this video
Great video! I just bought the exact same vehicle and really appreciate this in-depth information more than you know! How do you tell when it’s time to replace the suspension. For that matter you replaced the axels too. How can you tell?
What is the best strut assembly to use for Honda Pilot 2010? Are the struts you installed still working OK? Did the ride get softer/stiffer/or the same? Any other issues like noise or other by using after market assemblies? Thx.
These struts are not bad for the economy price…the ride is better as I’m softer. But if I had the money to go better I’d definitely get these…amzn.to/3CbovAS (right front) and amzn.to/3zcieDb (left front)….these struts are as close to original equipment as you can get for aftermarket struts
Only replace struts if they leak our have leaked and are now bouncy. The factory front strut assembly costs over $600 each. If you replace still good struts with cheap Chinese struts you will be downgrading. The disappointment will tear away at your soul.
I got a full set of Billstein heavy duty (yellow colored) and they are FANTASTIC! What an amazing difference in ride qulaity, I cant believe how much of a difference these made.
@@KhanhNguyen-yf5gf I think Billstein is made in Hamilton, Ohio USA. They were the best "heavy duty" struts & shocks I could find for the Pilot and am really impressed with the ride quality improvement. The B6 have a twin chamber design so great low speed and high speed travel damping - good small bump and large hit quality. I was really amazed. I had to wait a month or two to find them in stock, I special ordered them from my favorite seller and just waited but they did come through. You have to be patient, its worth it! BILSTEIN 22268914 {#51605SZAA02} B6 (Front right) You want the B6 series, not the B4 series. B4 are in stock everywhere but you really want the B6. I did new OEM bellows and and shock mounts for the front, rear doesnt need anything else besides the shocks themselves. You will need a spring compressor kit if you change the fronts yourself. I did all the work myself, I would estimate a 4/10 difficulty, mostly just time consuming.
How do I know how tight the bolts need to be I have no mechanical skills at all I just want to save 3600 the dealership quotes me. This seems fairly easy im only worried about torquing to proper spec. Also the link for the parts is that for a 2011 pilot also. Is there any higher performance struts and shocks I can put on to make the vehicle tow more or just last longer???
Hello Sir, on the video the struts are unity but the one from you link are Mac. also after the the replacement does the truck need to be aligned ? thanks in advance. Great video
Thank you for your feedback and great question....typically you don’t need to get an alignment because there’s no camber or caster adjustments to dial in but it’s always a good practice to get an alignment anytime you replace suspension components. For the link to the parts it’s your preference to what brand struts and shocks you wanna use.
Absolutely…these struts were put on my wife’s daily driver and she hasn’t had any issues but I do understand your concern a lot of aftermarket stuff sucks.
So how long did it take to do the struts shocks and the rear struts? were they oem? if i order these are they oem? I wish you could put mine on. Im 74 yr old lady/victim...if you get my meaning....i live in Billings Mt. Who can i trust to do what you did? thx
After i replaced my front and rear struts and shocks. I took it in for alignment and they said it is pulling right even after they set it to factory standards. They said to take it back to the shop that did the suspension and have them adjust it. Is there something i can do to adjust the parts to not pull right
Thanks for the video man this is great. Was there a noticeable difference? We have had some issues with ours pulling. We found out it had a previous accident 2 years after buying. Do you have to get an alignment done after this? Do I need to worry about torque specs?
I can relate on finding out it had an accident after the fact… same thing happened to me. Now for the pulling issues there’s no caster adjustments on most Hondas but it’s always good to get an alignment after suspension work. Here’s a quick tip for you to narrow down the pulling issues. Switch the front tires from side to side… if the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction from what it was doing before, then you got a tire pull. Yes this is a real thing. Hope this helps my friend
@@elperrocovero we bought it from carmax and have done all the services through Honda. They said the frame was bent when we had the front end worked on a few months back.
I would be concerned that the springs that come on the pre assembled struts are just some generic springs that the manufacturer feels will work “ok” on the most amount of different vehicles. The stock springs were chosen by Honda for the specific weight of the Pilot.
I wish honda thought about that when they did the brake rotors. They are super undersized. most of these and the odesseys rotors warp and have to be replaced every 35 to 60k.
@@ericgustafson1704 My front rotors would warp in under 10,000 miles. I Installed Power Stop rotors about 2 years ago and they are doing great. I wish I would have found them years ago, it would have spared me a lot of trouble.
@@Sonic-sh2vh I have been using EBC brakes and rotors for a few years now. the sub pads wear out quick when loaded and towing(2 years), but the rotors are solid and the reg pad last a decent while. crazy that two vehicles were put into production and are still this popular with such a huge and dangerpus design flaw. the only thing I hate about my pilot. Stealership fixed the compliance bushings(free at 135k), airbags and a host of other things, but not the brakes or the oil leaks from VCM. I will probably run it till the wheels fall off.
My trustworthy mechanic replaced the following at 110,xxx miles - 1) Timing Belt, 2) Serpentine Drive Belt, 3) Water Pump, 4) Timing Belt Adjuster, 5) Coolant drained/replaced. The reason for all of those is since they are in there to just knock it all out at the same time (other folks on-line (i.e. pilot forums) recommend doing the same thing). I do simpler things myself (brakes, rotors, plugs, filters, fluids/oils) but since I have just 1 car I can't afford to screw up the big things - just something I accept in my reality. Good luck with your project(s).
My CV axel popped out when I was doing this🤣😂🙌. I put it back together and it still rides better than when I bought it, used. I always leave things better than how they found me!
Nice!
We still have our 2011 Honda Pilot here in Virginia. We’ve been to Minneapolis twice, Chicago, Disney, along with many trips to the Outer Banks of North Carolina, and it’s been a great vehicle! Recently, a mechanic told me it needed shocks and struts and they price would be $1400. This makes me feel like it could do it myself. I would just need the proper tools first. Thanks for the great video, you definitely made it look easy!
Harbor freight carries great tools for the occasional mechanic and you’ll still spend a lot less than what the garage would charge.
Did you change them yourself?
Man, you just saved me a lot of money! THANK YOU!. Awesome video easy to follow. I just replaced my wifes Pilot's Struts with your help. thank you again for taking that time to make these videos and for savings us some money!
Awesome my friend…it’s why I do these videos.
I highly recommend the yellow Bilstein b6 for the pilot. I have had front and rear bilsteins on my 2011 pilot for about 1 year. Handles and rides so much better than stock. Corners so much tighter and car like. Ride is not bumpy or stiff either
I actually agree with you my friend.
Mind sharing where you ordered these from?
@@josiahley11 yes absolutely I will update the parts link when I get back to my computer….that part was discontinued…but I have another for everyone
@@josiahley11 I have updated the video link….they are from Amazon at a pretty good price considering what all you get in this kit here you go …amzn.to/3T2DiqL
Did you install the Bilsteins yourself?
I’m replacing the struts and shocks on my moms car and this was a super helpful video, thanks!
Absolutely my friend that’s why I do these videos. Ty
Man. Just what I needed, doing this on my 2012 this coming weekend. Doing sway bars and lower arms as well. Very much appreciated
Absolutely my friend
Thanks for the video! Did my 2014 Pilot tonight thanks to the video!
Bro your video was very straight forward. Now am doing my Honda Pilot myself. Great job
Awe ty my friend…it’s why I do these videos…to help people
Thanks for the video. I was able to change the struts and shocks on my 2013 Honda Pilot. Getting the nut off the left control arm was a bear. If I didn't have an impact hammer I don't know if I could have got it off. The bottom bolt on the left rear shock was even worse. I had to use a breaker bar with a 3 foot iron rod on it to get enough leverage to break that one before I could unscrew it. I discovered that my existing right rear shock was broken so glad I got new ones. Amazon is the way to go cause for a complete set only cost me about $300. Costs about that much for one strut at the auto parts store.
Awesome my friend. I’m very happy to hear your success story, that’s exactly why I do these videos.
Hi, I'm about to take on this project this weekend on our 2011 Honda Pilot, too. I'll be using your video for guidance all the way. I just wanted to ask if we need to torque each nut? If so, do you what lbs torque for each? Thank you.
Thanks for the video !
I had the same issue with the strut being stamped as the right side.
On the Front driver side strut, it was stamped “FR” I’m guessing Front Right? It was an OEM.
I ordered the same kit you are using . But the new strut that matches driver side is labeled as FL.
All bolted up the way it should.. 👍
Great job Señor mecánico, Bravo
If you don’t mind, please show us the defective parts next time and explaining why it’s bad and how we can tell that they are bad. Very educating video. I really appreciate people like you!!!, thank you
I just did all 4 struts and coils on my 2010 Pilot. I went with Monroe. I also used a 1 inch leveling kit for the rear. No more droopy butt lol The alignment is off now though, as expected. Steering wheel is slightly turned to the right. No pulling though surprisingly. But the truck drives so much better. No more bouncing. I got 210K miles on my pilot. I just did all 4 rotors and brakes too. Ceramic pads with cross drilled and slotted rotors. I got new tires coming in also. The mount balance and alignment will all get done within a week or 2!
If you don’t mind, what exactly throws off the alignment?
210K, I'd also be watching some videos on how to replace the timing belt and water pump.
I love my Honda and Toyotas!
My current fleet:
05 Honda Element 240K
06 Honda Pilot 245K
08 Prius 230K
2011 Prius 195K
2019 Toyota Tacoma 230K
The Tacoma is about to be replaced with a 2024 Tacoma.
I rarely see any domestics making these kinds of numbers.
I bet your wife was extremely happy!
Thanks for the vid. You made it look super easy. I just bought a used 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L and I think it might have issues in rack and pinion or sway bars. But if it's shocks/struts I know what to recommend. One thought as you are unassembling and reassembling is to write on screen what you're removing/adding and maybe numeric steps. Would help us newbs :)
You’re absolutely right I have thought about doing that….ty for the feedback
thanks and both of my strut mounts had right front marked on them but worked great
Awesome my friend…I’m glad it worked out for you🤙
Thank you for sharing this. I just replaced the front shocks of my honda pilot 2015.
You should mark the spindle so the strut will be in about the same spot. So when you get an ailment will go easer.
Good tip
Thank you for this detailed video. Will be attempting to do this myself.
Definitely the next project on my Pilot. Thanks bruh!!!
First, thanks so much GasDiesel Garage, I got my wife's Pilot, Milly, all done this week. I did get the Monroe Struts you mentioned in one of the comments below, they are super nice. Both strut assemblies still had FR on the top of them. I was thinking I got the shaft, and someone shipped me two passenger side parts. There were part numbers underneath the rubber, those clarified what assembly went to each side. The manufacturer (Monroe) confirmed that both passenger and driver sides will have FR on them. I didn't ask, but maybe that FR is an indication as to which bolt goes forward? IDK. Thanks a million though, not only was this fun, but something to be proud of for this desk worker. Going on my resume' for sure. :)
Awesome my friend…congrats.
Only difference for the fronts is the bracket locations for the brake hose and sway bar mount, strut, spring, and mount are the same, just have to flip the bracket mounts
I Didn’t understand what is the same and what is different from ur explanation
Love this video. My 2012 Pilot has 126k miles with original shocks and struts. Your video gives me the confidence to do this! Great lighting, clear imagery, and great explanation. My only recommendation is to turn down the music, or better yet, just keep talking through it. You're funny.😊
Great video! Word of advice: avoid aftermarket full damper assemblies AKA "quick struts" like the one shown in the video at all cost for Pilots/Ridgeline/Odyssey/MDX. They are universally crap. Instead, buy an OEM full damper assembly, if you can (especially if you live in US, where there's plenty of online OEM Honda/Acura stores that have great prices and will ship to you). Basically, there is no reason not to get the OEM assemblies (unless thy have been discontinued, like for the MDX, for example), because the price you pay will be almost identical to the aftermarket ones (that will serve you for a decade or more). Good luck!
Pilot OEM fully assembly struts have been discontinued almost a year now. We're screwed. However, Bilstein makes struts for this model.
Discontinued for pilots now. Is there any aftermarket that are safe to buy assembled? It’s the only way I’d be able to do this myself. I sunk a lot of money into repairs and need to save where I can.
@@flipd2830 is it a kit assembled or just the strut?
Great teacher and safety first!
Ty my friend
Awesome video. Thank you for giving me confidence that I am going to be able to do it.
God job. Thank you for sharing this. That’s helping a lot.
Well, I enjoy your video. Do you have a couple suggestions. Please include things like torque specifications, tips, or things to watch out for, when do use Loctite are Everease. Remember many of viewers may not be as experienced in making repairs. Every little bit of info helps. You can even add some info as on screen text.
Recommend Bilstein G5 or G4 of you actually want an upgrade vs just an improvement.
( Replacing any old shocks will be an improvement of course)
I can't find these...do you mind sharing a link where you got yours?
On the rear shocks replacement did you jack up the pilot at all?
No sir I didn’t have to…remember the rear on front wheel drive pilots..the suspension is supported by the rear springs. So yes you can change the shocks without jacking it up.
Thanks for the video, definitely feel like I can tackle this on my own now
Great video. I think I’ll tackle this next week. What’s the torque on all of these bolts when reinstalled? Thank you.
The OEM strut will last infinitely longer than quick struts. I'd take a new strut with a reused factory spring any day over quick struts.
I can’t argue with that…you’re absolutely right.
These videos are great! I was able to do do all the work myself after watching, the ride on the truck now is not even comparable. Needed an alignment before hand so getting that done. I did have a question, the ABS and VSA lights come on, I seen a comment about the AbS and VSA needing resets? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try to find out if there’s any “codes” stored in the car computer…if you don’t have a code reader…..Autoparts stores can tell you for free I believe…you’re always welcome to hit me back and I can help you further
I couldn't tell for sure (based on the video), but did you jack up the rear of the pilot to do the rear shocks? Thank you.
No you don’t have to jack up the pilots too do the rear shocks. Ty for your comment my friend ❤️
Thank you for this well planned and produced video 🙏
Curious how the pilot drove after the upgrade? My 2014 pilot ride is a little harsh and would like to upgrade to something a little
more forgiving on just regular New England roads. Suggestions for upgrades for a more comfortable ride? Just did new tires and ride is better but was looking for more
Also, any need to use thread locker when installing the rears on the pilot?
I’m having problems with VSP on my Honda Pilot 2011 as well…. Can you do a video? And changing spark plugs and wires
Absolutely and I will be doing more videos on the pilot in the near future
Great video, funny dude, "she shed" 🤣 and I'm about to buy one of these vehicles for my wife, so I very much appreciate seeing what you suggested. 🤘
Awe man thank you for awesome comment bud. Much appreciated!
So looking in the factory service manual, both sides have FR on the top mount. It actually means that part goes towards the front. I was a little worried because I just bought some new aftermarket mounts, and they said they were the same both sides, but when I opened the box, they both say FR. Fortunately the manual set me straight.
you're messing with the narrative, man.
Does it need to be aligned after this repair?
Yes it does.
Thank you for your video. It really encourage me to take tools and do the job. Couple suggestions if you want to do this job at the street or in your garage.
24 mill bolts are impossible to take with out the help of the 1/2 impact gun.
17 mill bolt or the sway bar usually extremely rusted and impossible to unscrew. Be ready to buy new sway bar.
Ather then that job cab be done.
Two thumbs up.
Awe thanks for the feedback my friend.
Where did you place the jack when doing the rear shocks. Where is the best central lift point?
With the rear shocks you can actually do it without jacking it up ..unless you’re taking the tires of but it’s not necessary. But if I were using the jack I place it in the middle of the rear crossmember and if you have the all wheel drive pilot…place the jack under the rear differential and use jackstands on either side…
One man Band Great Job
Hey, this is a great video. I have the same vehicle and I'm done overpaying for shit. Thanks for making the video
I can understand that
Thanks a lot Brother, I’ll do myself!!!
Awesome my friend
We only get better with time
Absolutely my friend
Good time to replace the stabilizer/sway bar links with Moog
Thanks! Very educational! Will probably give it a try on my wife's 2013 Honda Pilot.
Wow that was so easy to do. Thank u
Absolutely my friend
When installing the rear shocks did you jack up the rear end, or just put them on?
You “can” replace the rear shocks “without” jacking up the vehicle. Yes i did not jack up the pilot
Great video. Very well explained. Thanks!
Bro you made that look so easy, great video. Just got a new sub.
Thanks for your feedback my friend
I like your style. The video is nicely shot and you really explained things. What would be an indicator or two that you need to replace your front struts. I’m hearing some knocking when traveling over bumps and I have about 175k mi. Last year I changed the rear shocks bc they were shot. Thanks for the help and support
Absolutely my friend it’s what I’m here for…ty for your feedback
So sorry I miss read what you were saying…yes unfortunately the front struts were so noisy going over bumps and my tires were starting to get flat spots (cupping) is the official diagnosis term but yes because of those two reasons is why I replaced them. Yes my pilot was at 180k at the time of this video
Just subscribed.. did you or should you change the sway bar links?
Thank you for the video
Great video did my wife's came out great.....should I get an alignment?
It couldn’t hurt to do an alignment especially if you haven’t done one in a while.
Great video! I just bought the exact same vehicle and really appreciate this in-depth information more than you know! How do you tell when it’s time to replace the suspension. For that matter you replaced the axels too. How can you tell?
Bruh I have a 2016 pilot awd touring and trying to find front struts, I love KYB, however they don't make them anymore for '16 model
Yes that sucks bud.
Great instructions, you made it simple🦾🙏🏿❤️
Awe ty bud
You had me at she shed!
What is the best strut assembly to use for Honda Pilot 2010? Are the struts you installed still working OK? Did the ride get softer/stiffer/or the same? Any other issues like noise or other by using after market assemblies? Thx.
These struts are not bad for the economy price…the ride is better as I’m softer. But if I had the money to go better I’d definitely get these…amzn.to/3CbovAS (right front) and amzn.to/3zcieDb (left front)….these struts are as close to original equipment as you can get for aftermarket struts
@@Gasdieselgarage are these Monroe’s better than kyb? Where can I buy oem Honda parts?
Only replace struts if they leak our have leaked and are now bouncy. The factory front strut assembly costs over $600 each. If you replace still good struts with cheap Chinese struts you will be downgrading. The disappointment will tear away at your soul.
Question. After three years how have the struts and shocks held up?
Actually pretty good…no noise at all , tires still look good
do you think these struts are better than factory ones?
Honestly I can say they are about the same quality. If that helps
What brand are those struts and shocks?
I got a full set of Billstein heavy duty (yellow colored) and they are FANTASTIC! What an amazing difference in ride qulaity, I cant believe how much of a difference these made.
Were they made in China? Or anywhere else? Thanks
@@KhanhNguyen-yf5gf I think Billstein is made in Hamilton, Ohio USA. They were the best "heavy duty" struts & shocks I could find for the Pilot and am really impressed with the ride quality improvement. The B6 have a twin chamber design so great low speed and high speed travel damping - good small bump and large hit quality. I was really amazed.
I had to wait a month or two to find them in stock, I special ordered them from my favorite seller and just waited but they did come through. You have to be patient, its worth it!
BILSTEIN 22268914 {#51605SZAA02} B6 (Front right)
You want the B6 series, not the B4 series. B4 are in stock everywhere but you really want the B6. I did new OEM bellows and and shock mounts for the front, rear doesnt need anything else besides the shocks themselves.
You will need a spring compressor kit if you change the fronts yourself. I did all the work myself, I would estimate a 4/10 difficulty, mostly just time consuming.
That was awesome good video
Did u ever replace the rear springs ? I’m seeing a lot of sag , could be due to towing light things occasionally on my 2011 4WD
Yes actually I have and you’re right about the springs losing it’s capacity strength. Yes replace them..it’s very easy
I’d love something beefier even if it makes ride a lot tighter
Any suggestions ?
@@MrNabmilf yes actually I do …let get back to you on that because I can’t remember what used …you’ll hear from me today I promise
Love your channel man imma DIYer just like all the dudes watching
Did you need to use the jack and jack stands for the rear shocks?
Actually no you can do the shocks with the truck on the ground
How do I know how tight the bolts need to be I have no mechanical skills at all I just want to save 3600 the dealership quotes me. This seems fairly easy im only worried about torquing to proper spec. Also the link for the parts is that for a 2011 pilot also. Is there any higher performance struts and shocks I can put on to make the vehicle tow more or just last longer???
2:25 where did you put that jack and lifted the car? Is there any point other than jack point?
You can also get the hood struts mods instead of the hood prop
Great Video...Was there any damage to rubber boot on stabilizer bar link using vice grip pliers?
Thank you for the video. It was very informative.
Im about to do my 2013 Pilot , will it need a front end alignment ?
Yes I would recommend getting an alignment just because your changing the angle of the tires putting brand new struts it…just to be on the safe side
Hello Sir, on the video the struts are unity but the one from you link are Mac. also after the the replacement does the truck need to be aligned ? thanks in advance. Great video
Thank you for your feedback and great question....typically you don’t need to get an alignment because there’s no camber or caster adjustments to dial in but it’s always a good practice to get an alignment anytime you replace suspension components. For the link to the parts it’s your preference to what brand struts and shocks you wanna use.
The kit in the link will work on the pilots I promise you
Is this a worthy purchase to upgrade from stock? I have heard other aftermarket products have noise problems.
Absolutely…these struts were put on my wife’s daily driver and she hasn’t had any issues but I do understand your concern a lot of aftermarket stuff sucks.
@@Gasdieselgarage badass, appreciate it bro. Putting these on my wife's daily as well haha
So how long did it take to do the struts shocks and the rear struts? were they oem? if i order these are they oem? I wish you could put mine on. Im 74 yr old lady/victim...if you get my meaning....i live in Billings Mt. Who can i trust to do what you did? thx
and what about the coil springs in the back... how you change those????
After i replaced my front and rear struts and shocks. I took it in for alignment and they said it is pulling right even after they set it to factory standards. They said to take it back to the shop that did the suspension and have them adjust it. Is there something i can do to adjust the parts to not pull right
That kit isn’t available right now. What alternate kit would you recommend?
I will send you the updated version in few minutes…sorry I thought it was already updated
amzn.to/3d0gV5g
Here’s the updated link
Once struts and shocks are replaced, do I need to do a wheel alignment?
Great video thank you! Question, what kind of tires are those??
Bf Goodrich AT
I noticed what size of tires they look nice.
Bro thx looks easy af 👍🏽
Thank you for the information it help a lot
Ty for the kind words my friend
LETS GET IT MANEEE
How did you change them without having to lift the car? Isn't it very risky?
Very informative; thank you sir.
I had a shop try to charge me 2 grand. I bought a complete set for 300 bucks and did it myself
Thanks for the video man this is great. Was there a noticeable difference? We have had some issues with ours pulling. We found out it had a previous accident 2 years after buying. Do you have to get an alignment done after this? Do I need to worry about torque specs?
I can relate on finding out it had an accident after the fact… same thing happened to me. Now for the pulling issues there’s no caster adjustments on most Hondas but it’s always good to get an alignment after suspension work. Here’s a quick tip for you to narrow down the pulling issues. Switch the front tires from side to side… if the vehicle pulls in the opposite direction from what it was doing before, then you got a tire pull. Yes this is a real thing. Hope this helps my friend
As for torque no not really. You can find torque specs online if you wanna be sure.
Did you not run the vin number before buying it to see if it was ?
@@elperrocovero we bought it from carmax and have done all the services through Honda. They said the frame was bent when we had the front end worked on a few months back.
@@elperrocovero so yes we got the carfax
Do I need an alignment after installing struts?
Very well explaned ! Thanks
Did you upgrade or put same back
would an alignment be necessary after this?
Yes absolutely. Anytime you work on the suspension and steering it’s a good practice.
I would be concerned that the springs that come on the pre assembled struts are just some generic springs that the manufacturer feels will work “ok” on the most amount of different vehicles. The stock springs were chosen by Honda for the specific weight of the Pilot.
I wish honda thought about that when they did the brake rotors. They are super undersized. most of these and the odesseys rotors warp and have to be replaced every 35 to 60k.
@@ericgustafson1704 My front rotors would warp in under 10,000 miles. I Installed Power Stop rotors about 2 years ago and they are doing great. I wish I would have found them years ago, it would have spared me a lot of trouble.
@@Sonic-sh2vh I have been using EBC brakes and rotors for a few years now. the sub pads wear out quick when loaded and towing(2 years), but the rotors are solid and the reg pad last a decent while. crazy that two vehicles were put into production and are still this popular with such a huge and dangerpus design flaw. the only thing I hate about my pilot. Stealership fixed the compliance bushings(free at 135k), airbags and a host of other things, but not the brakes or the oil leaks from VCM. I will probably run it till the wheels fall off.
What brands of struts and shock are you using
Torque specs?
Maybe your next MOD will be an exhaust? 🤔.. If you do PLEASE make a video about it
That will be epic
Hi at what mileage for the timing belt?
My trustworthy mechanic replaced the following at 110,xxx miles - 1) Timing Belt, 2) Serpentine Drive Belt, 3) Water Pump, 4) Timing Belt Adjuster, 5) Coolant drained/replaced. The reason for all of those is since they are in there to just knock it all out at the same time (other folks on-line (i.e. pilot forums) recommend doing the same thing). I do simpler things myself (brakes, rotors, plugs, filters, fluids/oils) but since I have just 1 car I can't afford to screw up the big things - just something I accept in my reality. Good luck with your project(s).
@@M3fPCGFJSGDlORUbZAwK yes it does make “cents” to take care of it while it’s all apart.
Every 100k miles it should be replaced.
Well done video, well done indeed!!
Great job, man. 👏