I agree with the other commenters, top stitching in higher end shirts, vintage shirts and hand made shirts tends towards the shorter/smaller stitch length, but commercially produced mass production shirts tend to use heavier thread and longer stitches - sometimes up to 3.5mm or 4mm even. I tend to scale my stitching to the fabric - finer fabric gets shorter stitches and finer threads, thicker fabric gets longer stitches and thicker threads. Love that you are using these machines - and Yes the Swiss made Elna’s are lovely machines, my daughter sews on her Aunts machine, bought in 1983, and it is a beautiful machine to use. An Elna SU Air Electronic -- with the foot ‘puff’. Thanks for the video
I use 2.7 to 3 stitch length for top stitching, I like it a bit longer then seam stitches. If on a stiff dense fabric like denim I’ll go even longer, 3.2 or so. The dense weave won’t gather. I really keep meaning to try the basting needle plate out and do a saddle stitch treatment with either a buttonhole twist or two threads for a real strong top stitch. I have a vintage vogue pattern sitting that has this finish by hand across the yoke and pockets. Must try it out.
I have the Elna blue air electronic SU. Bought it in 1980 cost $800 over. use it today. So happy to see you have got a walking foot and the 4cm foot to fit. The best news ever for me.can all the singer super machine fit my elna.love your sewing
I have one of these and the original foot that has the button for speed control. Fast and slow. Saved it from the dump love it. Top stitching is longer it is used for a decorating.
@@InStitches It was given to me by an older friend who has owned it from new. It’s well maintained and I treasure it. I love your videos. They are so informative
This is truely such a fab machine, I bought my first one in 1987 second hand for 50 pounds in London as a povo bedsit dweller, have two more now as I hate seeing them unloved on marketplace. Plus a TSP with ochre top. So many lovely features to a SU. Try one of the embroidery disc stitches with pearle cotton in the bobbin and thread through the bypass hole, no tension. Then fabric face down, it’s a lovely finish on towels or linen. I usually top stitch on about 2.7 or 2.8, prefer a longer stitch.
I tend to match the length of stitch to fabric and thread when topstitching...for instance, on your shirt imho that stitch length is OK, but if you were topstitching jeans or other heavy fabric, then I would lengthen the stitch and I might use thicker thread too. In saying that, I'm not the stitch police and would never criticise anyone for their choices, it's all about personal preference...that's why we sew! You mentioned the bulk at the collar tip and yoke/front/sleeve junctions...when sewing over these I use a hammer on the wrong side of the fabric, over a block of wood, a couple of whacks is usually all that is required. To help with buttonholes, specially the collar stand buttonhole on a shirt, the stabiliser plate that Janome have now is a godsend, it levels the area and prevents the foot getting hung up on seam allowance bulk. HTH!
What a treat to see, as I called them the blue Elna . Also had a pink Elna. I think your top stitching is fine. Very impressed with your sewing, specially shirts with many processes that have to be accurate. Lovely fabric. Blue Elna was my favourite machine, but scarce in the UK. So many available in the US but to get them here costs a fortune. Thanks again
Your topstitching looks great! You could compare to a store bought shirt you like but I often tend to go a bit smaller for handmade, i think it looks nice and it’s also maybe more secure. I wonder if storebought uses a longer stitch length at times for speed of production. I’m surprised the SU can use Singer low shank feet! That’s great news as I’m thinking of buying the Elna SU and I already have so many Featherweight feet.
I AM blown away, I picked this machine up at the recycle store at the dump for $15. After a good clean and oil it worked like a charm. I have many vintage machines and this is by far my favourite, I have even made several leather bags on it. I havn't sewed in about 5 years and I pulled this out today and looked for some videos. It really is a magic machine. Do you know what year this was in production? I may not have exactly the same model, on the plate is says V/NV/62 then underneath 62C L178970. There is one dial that doesn't move on it so if I can't work it out could I ask what it is for? Thank you Jo
Your top stitching looks good, I tend to do mine a tad longer than regular stitch length, mainly because it is usually going through more layers of fabric and a slightly longer length sits flat and smooth.
More than likely the dial that is seized is the needle positioning dial. I have a video related to that - studio.ruclips.net/user/videocSCpu8KDJZM/edit
@@InStitches Thank you so much, yes you are right, I found that video last night, just what I needed and yes I did all those things you said, stuck a screwdriver in the grooves and tried to move it, it slipped of cause, scratched the machine 😡 and cut my finger. I will take the top off and do it properly in the next couple of days. From watching your videos I also found that I have the model that has the white dials and no initials, just Supermatic. You have been super helpful, thank you again.
A facebook group I belong to recommended your channel. So I subbed. I acquired a Singer 700G machine..which is actually a German made "Touch and Sew". I have tried, without success, for over 2 years to find parts, here in the USA, for this machine, I need the Needle Bar Cover DOOR and the THROAT PLATE. Can you offer me any advice? Thanks in advance!
Do you have a page I can send a video of my green Elna which is making a terrible sound? I had it recently serviced but it’s still playing up and the serviceman has “left the building”. If you lived in Australia I would give it to you as you may be able to use it for parts if it’s no longer viable. It does a perfect stitch if it works.
@@InStitches Thanks so much for the link. That’s exactly the problem. I am trying to source a new pulley. I may have found one in the US. Still waiting for confirmation of part availability. Do you think my machine service person will be able to replace it? Thank you very much for the diagnosis.
Yes, just picked one up yesterday from an antiques shop for nearly nothing. It blows my other machines away. It is amazing.
I agree with the other commenters, top stitching in higher end shirts, vintage shirts and hand made shirts tends towards the shorter/smaller stitch length, but commercially produced mass production shirts tend to use heavier thread and longer stitches - sometimes up to 3.5mm or 4mm even. I tend to scale my stitching to the fabric - finer fabric gets shorter stitches and finer threads, thicker fabric gets longer stitches and thicker threads. Love that you are using these machines - and Yes the Swiss made Elna’s are lovely machines, my daughter sews on her Aunts machine, bought in 1983, and it is a beautiful machine to use. An Elna SU Air Electronic -- with the foot ‘puff’. Thanks for the video
I use 2.7 to 3 stitch length for top stitching, I like it a bit longer then seam stitches.
If on a stiff dense fabric like denim I’ll go even longer, 3.2 or so. The dense weave won’t gather.
I really keep meaning to try the basting needle plate out and do a saddle stitch treatment with either a buttonhole twist or two threads for a real strong top stitch. I have a vintage vogue pattern sitting that has this finish by hand across the yoke and pockets. Must try it out.
I have the Elna blue air electronic SU. Bought it in 1980 cost $800 over. use it today. So happy to see you have got a walking foot and the 4cm foot to fit. The best news ever for me.can all the singer super machine fit my elna.love your sewing
I have one of these and the original foot that has the button for speed control. Fast and slow. Saved it from the dump love it. Top stitching is longer it is used for a decorating.
I have one too and love it so much!
I have that model Elna SU and it’s a gem
Lucky you!
@@InStitches It was given to me by an older friend who has owned it from new. It’s well maintained and I treasure it.
I love your videos.
They are so informative
This is truely such a fab machine, I bought my first one in 1987 second hand for 50 pounds in London as a povo bedsit dweller, have two more now as I hate seeing them unloved on marketplace. Plus a TSP with ochre top. So many lovely features to a SU. Try one of the embroidery disc stitches with pearle cotton in the bobbin and thread through the bypass hole, no tension. Then fabric face down, it’s a lovely finish on towels or linen.
I usually top stitch on about 2.7 or 2.8, prefer a longer stitch.
Thanks.
I tend to match the length of stitch to fabric and thread when topstitching...for instance, on your shirt imho that stitch length is OK, but if you were topstitching jeans or other heavy fabric, then I would lengthen the stitch and I might use thicker thread too. In saying that, I'm not the stitch police and would never criticise anyone for their choices, it's all about personal preference...that's why we sew! You mentioned the bulk at the collar tip and yoke/front/sleeve junctions...when sewing over these I use a hammer on the wrong side of the fabric, over a block of wood, a couple of whacks is usually all that is required. To help with buttonholes, specially the collar stand buttonhole on a shirt, the stabiliser plate that Janome have now is a godsend, it levels the area and prevents the foot getting hung up on seam allowance bulk. HTH!
What a treat to see, as I called them the blue Elna . Also had a pink Elna.
I think your top stitching is fine.
Very impressed with your sewing, specially shirts with many processes that have to be accurate.
Lovely fabric.
Blue Elna was my favourite machine, but scarce in the UK.
So many available in the US but to get them here costs a fortune.
Thanks again
Thanks Anita. Any idea why they are scarce in the UK? Did they not sell many there?
@@InStitches
It seems as though Bernina was the European machine that was popular, although there are many new Elna agencies.
Your topstitching looks great! You could compare to a store bought shirt you like but I often tend to go a bit smaller for handmade, i think it looks nice and it’s also maybe more secure. I wonder if storebought uses a longer stitch length at times for speed of production. I’m surprised the SU can use Singer low shank feet! That’s great news as I’m thinking of buying the Elna SU and I already have so many Featherweight feet.
I’m looking forward to your buttonhole video. I’ve not been entirely happy with the buttonholes made by Elna Supermatic.
Thanks. I'm hoping to do my buttonholes later this week.
I AM blown away, I picked this machine up at the recycle store at the dump for $15. After a good clean and oil it worked like a charm. I have many vintage machines and this is by far my favourite, I have even made several leather bags on it. I havn't sewed in about 5 years and I pulled this out today and looked for some videos. It really is a magic machine. Do you know what year this was in production? I may not have exactly the same model, on the plate is says V/NV/62 then underneath 62C L178970. There is one dial that doesn't move on it so if I can't work it out could I ask what it is for? Thank you Jo
Your top stitching looks good, I tend to do mine a tad longer than regular stitch length, mainly because it is usually going through more layers of fabric and a slightly longer length sits flat and smooth.
More than likely the dial that is seized is the needle positioning dial. I have a video related to that - studio.ruclips.net/user/videocSCpu8KDJZM/edit
@@InStitches Thank you so much, yes you are right, I found that video last night, just what I needed and yes I did all those things you said, stuck a screwdriver in the grooves and tried to move it, it slipped of cause, scratched the machine 😡 and cut my finger. I will take the top off and do it properly in the next couple of days. From watching your videos I also found that I have the model that has the white dials and no initials, just Supermatic. You have been super helpful, thank you again.
A facebook group I belong to recommended your channel. So I subbed. I acquired a Singer 700G machine..which is actually a German made "Touch and Sew". I have tried, without success, for over 2 years to find parts, here in the USA, for this machine, I need the Needle Bar Cover DOOR and the THROAT PLATE.
Can you offer me any advice?
Thanks in advance!
I may have those parts but they could cost a fair amount to ship to USA. My email address in is the video description.
I use 2.5-3mm for topstitch. No longer than 3mm on a cotton shirt.
I only have the Grasshopper Elna, but my Brother 561S is VERY slow, too. What year is your Elna? It is iron-made, isn't it?
Apparently, the SU model was manufactured from 1971-1978. Not sure exactly what year mine is.
I don't know the exact year but I believe it is the second to last version of the 62c.
Do you have a page I can send a video of my green Elna which is making a terrible sound? I had it recently serviced but it’s still playing up and the serviceman has “left the building”. If you lived in Australia I would give it to you as you may be able to use it for parts if it’s no longer viable. It does a perfect stitch if it works.
I'm in New Zealand. This may be your problem with the green Elna - ruclips.net/video/JOjlxh-T29Y/видео.html
@@InStitches I knew it! After seeing some TV News videos, I could recognize your accent. Greetings from Rio de Janeiro, Brasil.
@@InStitches Thanks so much for the link. That’s exactly the problem.
I am trying to source a new pulley. I may have found one in the US. Still waiting for confirmation of part availability.
Do you think my machine service person will be able to replace it?
Thank you very much for the diagnosis.
@@vaccavo Kia Ora from NZ!