E46 325ci 2004 here. 116 thousand miles. Engine noise is acceptable upon first start up. Due to there being no oil circulating in all the nooks and cranneys. But if it remains noisy for longer than 5 seconds u may have excessive wear, or stuck/ sluggish components. Remember oil change frequently let oil circulate for 30 seconds before setting off. N don't be afraid to work the engine this allows it to work hard and sort its self out.
I wish there was a way we can point a camera to our faces when we first learn of the joy that we will have another easter egg hunt at the engine one morning when we try to start the car. The look of happiness that we have to troubleshoot again must be priceless.
I have come to despise my x5. I keep buying and replacing and troubleshooting. Absolutely broke down in tears the other day. I dont even bolt the covers on as I'm always taking them off. I should just take the hood off to save myself that constant opening and closing also.
Nice, thanks for the video. Had today some fun with my '01 E39 Touring, after letting it sit in the icecold garage for 4 days. Hell, seems like it hated it and was mad at me, was misfiring, thrown me the Check Engine Light and the EML Warning light. Dude, I bought that Beast almost 7 years ago, and it was running rough like some diying Donky, was almost never maintained, tho never thrown me any lights. Yea, even with harsh misfires, no lights, ikr? Turns out Your BMW with the M54 engine can get pissed, tho it'll calm down when you drive it and clear the codes. Misfired on Cyl 6, 1 and 3. Pulled those codes, but the light for EML already vanished, and I knew and was like "Seems like someone's a bit Craaanky for daily driving the Jeep for the last 4 days!" But yea, eh, it'll be fine tomorrow after clearing those codes, but it's funny. Love those ol' BMW's and Jeeps from that era, they've still got a soul and can get mad atcha. XD
first thank you for video. i got next m54 ... fought down fuel trims almost to 0, but still have that neasty 30 sec cold start stalling. sometimes it throws codes like misfire during wormup or simple obd2 code (yellow-no check engine light). last time when i checking compression i found out 3 coild are made in china :) i must make vanos+gasket seals and change them too hope it helps.
My e36 M52tu rough idle has gotten worse. The engine shakes like a pulse for almost 2-3 minutes and acts like it wants to die. I already changed the coils and spark plugs and it didn’t fix it. Gonna change the injectors this weekend and try cleaning the MAF and ICV. Will check for cracks on TB boot and PCV...
I really want to thank you so much for all your videos… Very detailed information I really appreciate it … It’s really gotten me out of a lot of jams with my 2004, 530 I E60
Having bad compression on a cylinder can cause the same condition, particularly when the SES lists the misfire on a particular cylinder. Once the car heats up and the rings seat, compression increases and the misfire goes away. A cylinder with very low or no compression will not fire and then you have 5 cylinders running the car, =code+rough idling
If a cylinder have low compression, if I check it the a proper way like with a warm engine, I should see the difference? I mean, you said the compression increases and the misfire goes away, but the compression will be still lower than the a good cylinders'?
Thank you. I like that you pretty much did it in order of easiest to check and most likely to hardest and less likely. To bad there are a few who didn't appreciate the work you did to share. You notice they have nothing to contribute. No advice or videos, only snide remarks. Thanks again.
Good to know where the cam sensor and knock sensors are - Wondering what CODES you have seen in the past that give indication of one of the sensors being bad.
Awsome i put mine down to the idea controller boot don't go on right and is sort of compressed and bent going to just upgrade to the one piece silicone boot
Love your Videos really informative and I like the the way you present it. I have come back to the Videos as I'm having a complete nightmare with my Auxiliary Water pump. It won't run! When we tested it was showing that its shorting out. Changed Auc as it look corroded. Now its time to check the cables and see if there is a break. I got negative but short on the plus. Wish me luck that I get it fixed. Other wise I!'m gonna reluctantly bring it to a BMW specialist.
I too have an e83. Recently started to take longer to crank on cold start and a rough idle when it starts. No codes. Messing with INPA now to see how motor sensors perform while someone else drives the X3. At idle, everything is in spec. Cleaned maf sensor. Admittedly got a lean code once. Took out VANOS solenoids and cleaned them with carb cleaner. Seemed to actually help for a short time. Possibly because ecu was running in safe mode while it recalibrated or dumb luck. Someone mentioned fuel pressure might be low at start. Turned key to ign, waited for it to prime, then start. Same issue. Longer cranking. Leaning towards crank or cam position sensor slowly dying. But will check my coil packs this weekend as per this video. Just don't want to spend $2000 randomly changing all the sensors, coils and vanos.
Lots of things, about 12 it could be and probably a few more. Pcv ccv valve and vacuum hoses. Air intake damage. Maf dirty. Fuel pump lagging. Bad coils. Fouled plug. Leaks in the cover gasket. Bad alternator. Fuel filter. Plugs. Water system airlocked. Misfire causing flooding. Bad starter causing flooding. Even slipping belts seems to be able to make a cold m52 act like it needs retiring.
Thank for this. I've watched many of your videos and find your channel an excellent resource. This video addresses the idling issue I have with my 00 528i. Cheers
I have an 00 528i and have this same problem. Seems to be a common issue with this year/model. Super annoying, I haven't found what it is exactly yet. So far I've replaced my coils, spark plugs and camshaft intake sensor. Still have the idle dip problem on cold start...
I'm in Illinois and my 2004 325ci manual below 40F outside dies a few times until the engine warms to about 150F. Some times when it stumbles and almost dies but catches itself and I get a traction control and brake light that clears if I turn the car off and back on. I'll check the ICV first. Thanks.
I have a M54, X3 and I’ve had cold starting issues for years... I’m pretty sure it’s my DME. It’s getting slightly worse though, car will die at 50-60 degrees now.
Could run INPA and reset the adaptations but then need to run a proper learning process which is different depending on vehicle. Google 'ZF Adaptation Process bmw'. A pdf should come up.
hey, I own an e46, in the mornings I always get a misfire. I figured out that if I give a continuous gas when I start it at about 1.5k 2k and let it warm up like that the misfire does not occur. if I let it idle alone, the revs start to wobble up and down at about 900-1k rpm and it starts shaking and then it misfires it doesn't stop if you let it run, I have to turn off the car a few times and it goes away. I hope that this information is useful for someone to figure out what is happening to my car. I have changed the coil packs, o2 sensors and spark plugs.
I have all the symptoms you described for a faulty ICV, but it eventually runs smooth and then when I drive the car, it dies on me down the road as soon as I give it gas. ICV would cause that as well? Let me know Thanks
My 2002 E39 has been misfiring for the past 10 years. I normally catch it by switching the engine off and on again a few times when the car is shaking. I’m desperate to get it fixed! But every mechanic so far has failed. We’ve changed and cleaned the coil packs etc. My question is! Do I continue to waste money investigating through garage professionals or can I continue to live with it! Will the rough idle / misfire eventually kill the car.
Loads of good information in there, had a bad exhaust cam sensor on mine, strange as it had no symptoms and no lights, only found out by chance when I was fiddling round on inpa one day, noticed the vanos wasn’t advancing and sure enough there was a code for the cam sensor, new one in probably solved.
Happen to have this problem now..i changed plug,cam sensor,tps ,maps sensor,iacv,replacing all worn rubber hose...and still wont fix it...the last thing i want to try is the cranck sensor because i change it years ago but not the original cranck sensor..suspect it starting to fails...its hard because no code or check engine coming..and now when im maintaining pedal 80kmh-100kmh its start light jerking but gone when press the pedal or let it go...idling are rough and rpm low to 300-400rpm
Hello Nathan, i have a question for you! I own a BMW e39 530 2001 5speed auto, when the car is cold after a few second start to shake the car about 30 up to 1 min and then once is warm is dissapear. I been in the bmw dealership, nothing show on Dyno, no codes , no missfire, do you have any idea what could be wrong? i expect for something mechanical issue maybe a seal or something like that, computer doesn't show anything wrong .
@@joseaguirre6478 not yet, i beens changed MAF sensor, Inition coils , sparkplugs spark socket, fuel filter with pressure regulator, DISA, cleaned te Iddle valve control same with the Throttle body, no codes at all, i asumeing it will be some O-ring some intake seal but i am still trying to figure it out ..... if anyone any ideas elt me pls
What about the ECU/Throttle Body. I’m pretty sure that’s my issue. Cold start issues, dying, misfiring, lean codes, boot codes, throttle adaptions not met… Car starts fine above 50. It’s far worse this winter though, 6-8 Cold starts before she will idle. Reset adaptations, seems even worse now. 4x4 light and break light comes on. Wait 5 seconds and that clears restart. If it’s cold enough it will start flashing SES light after a few failed attempts, and you have to reset codes, or wait awhile and it’ll turn over again. Super annoying. Seems even worse when it’s wet outside. Love the M54 but this is ANNOYING. I’ve been dealing with it for 4 years, and decided I’m going to run this X3 until it blows up. 181,000 miles, and I want this issue fixed. Going to replace the coil packs/plugs tomorrow, clean the MAF Sensor, use a heat gun to warm up ECU, I want to narrow this down before I end up spending a bunch of money and time replacing parts that are alright. I’m sure I have a vacuum leak as well, my CCV is probably on its way out. Doesn’t help that everything is covered in oil from a valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket leak. Lol Oh and she needs new rotors, those are totally warped and making noise now. I still love the M54, but sheesh lots of crap this last year… Oh and replacing the radiator, thermostat and coolant sensors, last summer. The exploded coolant tank was fun… Replaced that in a casino parking lot. Turns out my fan wasn’t working… Nearly ordered a new fan from BMW for $900… But checked the wiring under some factory electrical tape and there it was, a frayed wire. I’d buy a 90’s Civic EX for commuting but used cars right now are stupid expensive.
Thanks for the video my e39 has started cutting out when the air con is on particularly, and occasionally without the air on on. It tries to do it in motion like a cough. The start up and idle is good. It’s a brain teaser, time to get under the hood! I have no warnings on the dash.
Hello Nathan, have some issues with e39 530i. Engine not working when air mass flow sensor is plugged in but when I unplug it works with no full power. Unplugged air mass works but not full power if plugged in Engine shots off...would be appreciated if you can advise some...thanks
What codes would come up with the exhaust sensor? I've replaced all my lines, boots, cleaned my idle valve, new vanos rebuild, new ccv, new coils and plugs. Still get the rough idle with an occasional misfire code that goes away. Would it be charcoal canister check pump?
@@luis.f10__ i noticed that if i prime the car 3 times before turning it fully over it doesnt happen. Probably something to do with uneven injector flow or something. Prolly needs a cleaning
@@ttvalhercc2592 That is because your fuel pump is repriming the fuel injection rail, so perhaps your FPR is on its way out, or you need a new fuel filter, or worst case scenario fuel pump. Again I'd check your vacuum hoses, particularly to FPR, first, and suspect MAF next, then suspect fuel filter, then everything else.
Man i wish u help me diagnose my 323ci. It have new coils, new fuel pump 6 months old, i can hear it going, new relays for the ignition to discard that, (all fuses are fine) have good pressure on the fuel rail and does not start with starting fluid. Everything happens one day... It started fine just move it a few meters in my driveway, turn it off and when try to start it back again it missfire like crazy so I leave it alone but haven't find the issue. I need expert assistance haha
I'm currently hunting this on my 530 e39. It's driving me crazy. I replaced the whole vacuum system and I think I just narrowed it down to a bad O ring on my adjuster unit. 🤬
I dont mind checking every little nail in the engine. But I do mind the cost. The car is going to be parked in my garage for 6 months coz I aint got no money to burn on it right now!
Hey Nathan thanks for sharing this with us! I'm also a e39 owner, I have a question what else except the o2 sensors can cause the engine not to go in a close loop bank one or both ?
What would you be your best guess if I have misfires only on cold start, having changed the valve cover and gasket, all coolant hoses, coils and plugs, all vacuum lines, new pcv hoses. I did buy the NKG 1 step colder plugs and gapped them to .022, and used the OEM eldor coils. I have a dinan stage 3 tune, so any thoughts might cause a cold start misfires. Minimal at worst, then cleans out to a very smooth running engine in maybe 5 minutes. Afterwards all starts, as long as the engine is still warm starts clean and purrs like a kitten. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Oh, btw, I have a battery that is going bad. replacing it soon. Any possibility that might have something to do with it? Sincerely. Ben.
I have a 2002 330xi. It runs great the other day I started it and it ran rough like it was on 5 cil instead of 6. I made it home had no power now it won't start will that be a coil pack
Weird how these newer BMW's still have that big idle air control valve. I've been working on this nightmare e28 from 1986. It keeps fouling out plugs and runs like crap. After replacing everything except the fuel injectors. I'm pretty sure it's the injectors causing it. However, neither the original or the replacement IAC valve has a solid rattle like yours did. Are the old valves from that era supposed to have a satisfying rattle like the new ones too? Perhaps it isn't the injectors making it run rich? Maybe I just have two bad IAC valves? I want to fix that thing and get it out of my yard once and for all.
Nathan, what about idle dips? Mine has this tiny problem that the idle drops to 500 rpm. Once the engine idles @700 rpm it idles just fine. That car drives just fine, engine starts fine. The only thing it does: approaching a stop, disengage the clutch (manual TM), rpm goes down to 500 rpm. Idle control valve overcorrects and shoots rpm up a bit and then setles down. back to normal idle. Also, when the rpm is dropping it does not catch it @ 800-900 rpm and then steps it down to 700 rpm. The ramp just falls down smoothly. I can't find anything wrong with the car. The only strange thing is: when the eninge is not fully warmed up to short term fuel trim @idle are +10%. But this settles down to -2% @ idle once the car is warmed up.
I have a 2003 e39 530. Intermittently smokes on start runs rough for a minute then it's fine...it will also blow smoke once in a while when I stop at a light and hit the gas. Could this be the ccv or is it deeper than that?
hallo my friend .....i have m52 b20 engine 520i ..... cold start is not good.....iddle no problem...but acceleration it is very slow till 3000 3500 rpm than it is like take of....i undrstand not powerfull engine but at low rpm under load with ac on....when with the pedal gas nothing happens...in iddle gas pedal works fine takes the gas fine goes rpm fine ....?
I have a Bmw 525i e39 2003 Rough idle only on cold start, if I rev the car it stops when I drive of it doesn’t shake I have changed all spark plugs all coil packs any help please
Hey man love ur vids! My friend recently bought a 2000 323i and he successfully changed the valve cover gasket but when he took the top off there was a bunch of slimy crap like they tried to seal up the oil leak the lazy way (the previous owner)the car was running fine until i told him to put seafoam in the oil cap to clean it out , the car started to stumble alot & had no power ,then he got a pending error code pop up p0340 camshaft position sensor ,but then we replaced both bank 1 & bank1 & its still giving us the Pending code . Do u think the seafoam caused this beacuse the car was running decent before
have an bmw e39 1998 m52 520i when on cold start the rpm goes up and down like it gon turn off if you dont hit the gas pedal and the accleration si not constant its good when the car is cold but when it is hot or driven more the accleration is sluggish not enough power but sometimes the power comes back and goes away again no engine light no nothing just not enough power it feels like the car is heavy like a army tank haha i dont know how to explain it better please help please
hi Nathan do you do any diagnostics on 4 cylinders? I have 2 codes p1100 and p1101 ive replaced the maf and still no change, you can clear code but comes back on after a while any advice gratefully received
I have an E46 330i and have cold start issue, sometimes resulting in code p1345: Misfire cylinder 2 with fuel cut off. And p1348 misfire cylinder 4 on start up. New genuine coils, ngk platinum spark plugs and new injectors installed to try and solve the issue, and it has not. The other day it misfired big time while driving after 20 mins. BMW don't know the answer or specialists, I'm stuck.
I have a mystery misfire on my E46 only at the first day start ! Means when i leave it about 10 hours more or less ! I have the new coils that i have all 6 changed with original beru and also all plugs with NGK ! CCV neu DISA neu VCG neu there is no vacuum leak All hoses neu all of them ! But during that phase of misfiring i can with only 100 rpm more curing than is nothing! When i leave it misfiring there is only a 30 seconds of them and sometimes throws the code P1351 Battery voltage is 11.3 alternator voltage between 13.9 and 14.2 Car had 159k ( km) not miles 100k miles
mine sort of is the same. it just barely runs cold and the firing sounds all out of wack but after it heats up it seems to be fine. weirdest thing, scared to drive it anymore till i fix it though.
@@yfi62dortoh ...hey my e46 is starting better now. It was a cracked brake booster line. The big fat one that's connected under the intake manifold. It's located next to the fuel vapor inlet. It's a bitch to replace but you can do it without removing the intake manifold. Good luck...
99bmwz3 cold start making popping noises from engine, runs rough, then smooths out after about 30 seconds or so....already deleted air pump, and deleted cvv vacuum...all lines blocked with a catch can installed....all coils new...all plugs new.... Any ideas?
I have an03 325i car came from California so has the low emissions my problem is loss of power rpms at idle go up and down some and when they go low the oil light comes on any suggestions to my problem ty
i just did all this and more. just replaced the vanos and still get a cold misfire. i even did over night soak with seafoam in the cylinder heads. still misfire. i am at a loss.
I have an Uk E46 330ci which has a high idle, I have the following codes all of the time. I clear them they come straight back. 35 Activation, idle-speed control valve/opening coil & 1e activation, ignition cylinder 3. It’s been smoke tested, it’s had an new idle valve a new disa flap which helped. But it idles high like 1200-1500 after time it will drop down as soon as you touch the throttle it goes high again. If you turn the car off and restart it. The idle drops to normal touch the throttle and it goes high and stays high sometimes will drop back after a few mins, mostly stays high. Any ideas?? It doesn’t misfire
@Arnold Rimmer awesome thanks ended up going thru 2-3 maf sensor from junk yard n online but got it working as soon as it started working fine radiator cracked or something left me stranded on side road smh hate rhis thing lol
I've had 4 of these pieces of shit and its always been the ccv! I've got one right now that has a pending p0369 and it runs fine even when I unplug the exhaust cam sensor it runs fine. No idea why
Hey, my 520i 2002 is misfiring. Found it’s the second cylinder coil, the new coil won’t pop onto the spark plug. It won’t seat even if I bolt it down. How do I get it to ‘pop onto the spark plug?? Thanks mate, any help??
...of course there is a serious design fault on the 323/328 E46 engines with self destructing VANOS that initially starts out with hunting/surging on cold start in the colder half of the year ;o) NEVER buy a 328 CI in the summer, trust me on that bruvs
My 03 e39 has rough start when cold ses light is on. It goes off sometimes for a few days. Car rides fine if I drive it and warm it up. But Boggs for a few when I first start driving it. Trying to narrow down the fix as well.
ok so I have a few ?s b4 I start replacing a bunch of parts. so let me give u the rundown. I have a 99 528i I love this car however i left the country for a bit and my car set for about two years and now in trying to get it running again Ive done a few things but when I start it it idles very rough and when I push the gas it bogs down and doesnt start running well for about ten mins or so. the codes its telling me is p1189 p1188 so I was just wondering what I should replace fist so that I dont spend a ton of money buying stuff I dont really need as money is tight right now the way it sounds I think it may be the fuel filter but dont want to do that if its not necessary what r ur thoughts on this I see that u have made a few videos and probably know waaaaaayyyyyy more then I do about these cars
BTW it ran just fine b4 i left the only thing iv had to do since i bought it about 4years ago is put a clip on one of the hoses that popped off that came out of the radiator area up front behind the fan
E46 325ci 2004 here. 116 thousand miles. Engine noise is acceptable upon first start up. Due to there being no oil circulating in all the nooks and cranneys. But if it remains noisy for longer than 5 seconds u may have excessive wear, or stuck/ sluggish components. Remember oil change frequently let oil circulate for 30 seconds before setting off. N don't be afraid to work the engine this allows it to work hard and sort its self out.
I wish there was a way we can point a camera to our faces when we first learn of the joy that we will have another easter egg hunt at the engine one morning when we try to start the car. The look of happiness that we have to troubleshoot again must be priceless.
05:22 it's not a "cold start valve". It's and idle air control valve.
I have come to despise my x5. I keep buying and replacing and troubleshooting. Absolutely broke down in tears the other day. I dont even bolt the covers on as I'm always taking them off. I should just take the hood off to save myself that constant opening and closing also.
These videos are making me more confident in my ability to own a X5!!!
Don't do it, get an x3 if you want one
So in other words... It could be anything.
Where is your video or advise? Nothing to contribute except snide remarks? Got it.
Actually he gave quite a good overview of what it could be and give the age of E46’s all of these are the culprit and will need to be replaced.
These cars are a money Pitt, nice when they run, but very high maintenance 🤦🏽♂️
@@fernandozarate9981 it becomes a money pit once everything has been neglected
@@fernandozarate9981 if you own a bmw 9 outta 10 you do your own maintenance!!!
Im having a rough idle but no check engine... Its annoying, will definitely check these out, i wish its just one of them
Nice, thanks for the video.
Had today some fun with my '01 E39 Touring, after letting it sit in the icecold garage for 4 days. Hell, seems like it hated it and was mad at me, was misfiring, thrown me the Check Engine Light and the EML Warning light. Dude, I bought that Beast almost 7 years ago, and it was running rough like some diying Donky, was almost never maintained, tho never thrown me any lights. Yea, even with harsh misfires, no lights, ikr? Turns out Your BMW with the M54 engine can get pissed, tho it'll calm down when you drive it and clear the codes. Misfired on Cyl 6, 1 and 3. Pulled those codes, but the light for EML already vanished, and I knew and was like "Seems like someone's a bit Craaanky for daily driving the Jeep for the last 4 days!" But yea, eh, it'll be fine tomorrow after clearing those codes, but it's funny. Love those ol' BMW's and Jeeps from that era, they've still got a soul and can get mad atcha. XD
Ugh. I'm going back to an Audi TTS. Lol
Always love the troubleshooting videos. Most of my time is spent troubleshooting.
first thank you for video. i got next m54 ... fought down fuel trims almost to 0, but still have that neasty 30 sec cold start stalling. sometimes it throws codes like misfire during wormup or simple obd2 code (yellow-no check engine light). last time when i checking compression i found out 3 coild are made in china :) i must make vanos+gasket seals and change them too hope it helps.
My e36 M52tu rough idle has gotten worse. The engine shakes like a pulse for almost 2-3 minutes and acts like it wants to die. I already changed the coils and spark plugs and it didn’t fix it. Gonna change the injectors this weekend and try cleaning the MAF and ICV. Will check for cracks on TB boot and PCV...
I really want to thank you so much for all your videos…
Very detailed information I really appreciate it …
It’s really gotten me out of a lot of jams with my 2004, 530 I E60
so basically need 20 new parts sitting to troubleshoot! great video as i know these cars can be nightmare. Appreciate
Another thing are bad hydraulic lifters, which can cause a rough coldstart and random missfires
This exactly what i was looking for. Thanks Nathan for making these videos.
yeah...me too, slap parts unitl it's fixed..lol
So basically check and change every goddam part . So you have no idea . Great video
Lol !!
Man my X5 has become a nightmare. I haven't be able o enjoy since I bought it last year . Im hopping to find a realible good mechanic in the LA area .
Having bad compression on a cylinder can cause the same condition, particularly when the SES lists the misfire on a particular cylinder. Once the car heats up and the rings seat, compression increases and the misfire goes away. A cylinder with very low or no compression will not fire and then you have 5 cylinders running the car, =code+rough idling
If a cylinder have low compression, if I check it the a proper way like with a warm engine, I should see the difference? I mean, you said the compression increases and the misfire goes away, but the compression will be still lower than the a good cylinders'?
Thank you. I like that you pretty much did it in order of easiest to check and most likely to hardest and less likely.
To bad there are a few who didn't appreciate the work you did to share. You notice they have nothing to contribute. No advice or videos, only snide remarks.
Thanks again.
Good to know where the cam sensor and knock sensors are - Wondering what CODES you have seen in the past that give indication of one of the sensors being bad.
Always watching you Nathan. I got my X-5 Because of you. Thumbs up to Dean great guy
Well done quick solutions to the problem of engine instability morning running 👍🏼
looks like its time for to do the video of what makes rough idle on the N52 leave that to me Nathan
Hi Nathan, please explain more about new ccv system and milky oil cap? Why it happens?
Awsome i put mine down to the idea controller boot don't go on right and is sort of compressed and bent going to just upgrade to the one piece silicone boot
Love your Videos really informative and I like the the way you present it. I have come back to the Videos as I'm having a complete nightmare with my Auxiliary Water pump. It won't run! When we tested it was showing that its shorting out. Changed Auc as it look corroded. Now its time to check the cables and see if there is a break. I got negative but short on the plus. Wish me luck that I get it fixed. Other wise I!'m gonna reluctantly bring it to a BMW specialist.
Great, my e83 has no codes. I just replaced my CCV/hoses and cleaned the cold start idler thing, still rough start 🙃
I too have an e83. Recently started to take longer to crank on cold start and a rough idle when it starts.
No codes. Messing with INPA now to see how motor sensors perform while someone else drives the X3.
At idle, everything is in spec.
Cleaned maf sensor.
Admittedly got a lean code once. Took out VANOS solenoids and cleaned them with carb cleaner. Seemed to actually help for a short time. Possibly because ecu was running in safe mode while it recalibrated or dumb luck.
Someone mentioned fuel pressure might be low at start.
Turned key to ign, waited for it to prime, then start. Same issue. Longer cranking.
Leaning towards crank or cam position sensor slowly dying. But will check my coil packs this weekend as per this video.
Just don't want to spend $2000 randomly changing all the sensors, coils and vanos.
Lots of things, about 12 it could be and probably a few more. Pcv ccv valve and vacuum hoses. Air intake damage. Maf dirty. Fuel pump lagging. Bad coils. Fouled plug. Leaks in the cover gasket. Bad alternator. Fuel filter. Plugs. Water system airlocked. Misfire causing flooding. Bad starter causing flooding. Even slipping belts seems to be able to make a cold m52 act like it needs retiring.
never forget about the E46 most forgotten vacuum line..The fuel filter..
Thank for this. I've watched many of your videos and find your channel an excellent resource. This video addresses the idling issue I have with my 00 528i. Cheers
What was that exactly?
Lol same. These cars are not for the faint of heart
I have an 00 528i and have this same problem. Seems to be a common issue with this year/model. Super annoying, I haven't found what it is exactly yet. So far I've replaced my coils, spark plugs and camshaft intake sensor. Still have the idle dip problem on cold start...
Same here 00 M52Tu e46
I'm in Illinois and my 2004 325ci manual below 40F outside dies a few times until the engine warms to about 150F. Some times when it stumbles and almost dies but catches itself and I get a traction control and brake light that clears if I turn the car off and back on. I'll check the ICV first. Thanks.
I have a M54, X3 and I’ve had cold starting issues for years... I’m pretty sure it’s my DME. It’s getting slightly worse though, car will die at 50-60 degrees now.
Could run INPA and reset the adaptations but then need to run a proper learning process which is different depending on vehicle.
Google 'ZF Adaptation Process bmw'. A pdf should come up.
hey, I own an e46, in the mornings I always get a misfire. I figured out that if I give a continuous gas when I start it at about 1.5k 2k and let it warm up like that the misfire does not occur. if I let it idle alone, the revs start to wobble up and down at about 900-1k rpm and it starts shaking and then it misfires it doesn't stop if you let it run, I have to turn off the car a few times and it goes away. I hope that this information is useful for someone to figure out what is happening to my car. I have changed the coil packs, o2 sensors and spark plugs.
Sounds like a Injector is bad
Did you fix it? What was it.
I have this exact issue, any ideas?
I miss the 50s kid!
David hidalgo What happened to 50’s kid? Isn’t he still around making videos?
N52 z4. Hard tough no start first few turns after it sits for hours. But no issues after started.
Ty for the video. On my wife X5 2010 3.0 exhaust site there’s some kind of oval metal cover that leaks oil. About 1” Diam. What is that?
And yes, she has a hard cold start now. I will Have to do a diagnostic when I get home
I have all the symptoms you described for a faulty ICV, but it eventually runs smooth and then when I drive the car, it dies on me down the road as soon as I give it gas. ICV would cause that as well? Let me know Thanks
4:25 I knew I wasn’t the only one that new that
My 2002 E39 has been misfiring for the past 10 years. I normally catch it by switching the engine off and on again a few times when the car is shaking. I’m desperate to get it fixed! But every mechanic so far has failed. We’ve changed and cleaned the coil packs etc. My question is! Do I continue to waste money investigating through garage professionals or can I continue to live with it! Will the rough idle / misfire eventually kill the car.
Did you ever end up fixing it?
I'm getting a miss fire in cylinder number 2 with cutoff fuel and cylinder number 6 what could it be
You end up figuring that out?
Loads of good information in there, had a bad exhaust cam sensor on mine, strange as it had no symptoms and no lights, only found out by chance when I was fiddling round on inpa one day, noticed the vanos wasn’t advancing and sure enough there was a code for the cam sensor, new one in probably solved.
VANOS wasn't moving at all or just wasn't moving to where the other chart on the inpa page is requesting it to move to?
What rpm was this at?
@@mr2_mike it wasn’t moving at all at any rpm and engine load. Replaced the sensor and all was well again.
@@marchewitson6191 awesome. Thanks for the reply. Mine is definitely moving even at idle and small throttle blips.
You did not mention an important part , can DME cause cold starting issues ?
Happen to have this problem now..i changed plug,cam sensor,tps ,maps sensor,iacv,replacing all worn rubber hose...and still wont fix it...the last thing i want to try is the cranck sensor because i change it years ago but not the original cranck sensor..suspect it starting to fails...its hard because no code or check engine coming..and now when im maintaining pedal 80kmh-100kmh its start light jerking but gone when press the pedal or let it go...idling are rough and rpm low to 300-400rpm
Hello Nathan, i have a question for you!
I own a BMW e39 530 2001 5speed auto, when the car is cold after a few second start to shake the car about 30 up to 1 min and then once is warm is dissapear. I been in the bmw dealership, nothing show on Dyno, no codes , no missfire, do you have any idea what could be wrong? i expect for something mechanical issue maybe a seal or something like that, computer doesn't show anything wrong .
I have the exact same issue 520i 2001. No solution as yet...
Anything?
@@joseaguirre6478 not yet, i beens changed MAF sensor, Inition coils , sparkplugs spark socket, fuel filter with pressure regulator, DISA, cleaned te Iddle valve control same with the Throttle body, no codes at all, i asumeing it will be some O-ring some intake seal but i am still trying to figure it out .....
if anyone any ideas elt me pls
Very informative but need more lighting too dark
What about the ECU/Throttle Body. I’m pretty sure that’s my issue. Cold start issues, dying, misfiring, lean codes, boot codes, throttle adaptions not met… Car starts fine above 50. It’s far worse this winter though, 6-8 Cold starts before she will idle. Reset adaptations, seems even worse now. 4x4 light and break light comes on. Wait 5 seconds and that clears restart. If it’s cold enough it will start flashing SES light after a few failed attempts, and you have to reset codes, or wait awhile and it’ll turn over again. Super annoying. Seems even worse when it’s wet outside. Love the M54 but this is ANNOYING. I’ve been dealing with it for 4 years, and decided I’m going to run this X3 until it blows up. 181,000 miles, and I want this issue fixed. Going to replace the coil packs/plugs tomorrow, clean the MAF Sensor, use a heat gun to warm up ECU, I want to narrow this down before I end up spending a bunch of money and time replacing parts that are alright. I’m sure I have a vacuum leak as well, my CCV is probably on its way out. Doesn’t help that everything is covered in oil from a valve cover gasket, and oil pan gasket leak. Lol Oh and she needs new rotors, those are totally warped and making noise now. I still love the M54, but sheesh lots of crap this last year… Oh and replacing the radiator, thermostat and coolant sensors, last summer. The exploded coolant tank was fun… Replaced that in a casino parking lot. Turns out my fan wasn’t working… Nearly ordered a new fan from BMW for $900… But checked the wiring under some factory electrical tape and there it was, a frayed wire. I’d buy a 90’s Civic EX for commuting but used cars right now are stupid expensive.
I had to deal with that on a "99" 328I, never fixed it. But I didn't try all those other things.
Thanks for the video my e39 has started cutting out when the air con is on particularly, and occasionally without the air on on. It tries to do it in motion like a cough. The start up and idle is good. It’s a brain teaser, time to get under the hood! I have no warnings on the dash.
Same for me dis you figured it out ?
@@jiaah7.-8 no and I’ve sold the car now! Sorry buddy
Hello Nathan, have some issues with e39 530i. Engine not working when air mass flow sensor is plugged in but when I unplug it works with no full power. Unplugged air mass works but not full power if plugged in Engine shots off...would be appreciated if you can advise some...thanks
What codes would come up with the exhaust sensor? I've replaced all my lines, boots, cleaned my idle valve, new vanos rebuild, new ccv, new coils and plugs. Still get the rough idle with an occasional misfire code that goes away. Would it be charcoal canister check pump?
It idles rough literally for 1-2 seconds for me.... And boom its gone.
Any ideas anyone? Not prolonged. Cold only and car pulls hard, no problems after that 1-2 seconds. Literally starts like a tractor. Not when its warm.
Same exact prob on my e90 325i bro TRACTOR GANG.😈💪🏽
@@luis.f10__ i noticed that if i prime the car 3 times before turning it fully over it doesnt happen. Probably something to do with uneven injector flow or something. Prolly needs a cleaning
@@ttvalhercc2592 That is because your fuel pump is repriming the fuel injection rail, so perhaps your FPR is on its way out, or you need a new fuel filter, or worst case scenario fuel pump. Again I'd check your vacuum hoses, particularly to FPR, first, and suspect MAF next, then suspect fuel filter, then everything else.
Man i wish u help me diagnose my 323ci. It have new coils, new fuel pump 6 months old, i can hear it going, new relays for the ignition to discard that, (all fuses are fine) have good pressure on the fuel rail and does not start with starting fluid. Everything happens one day... It started fine just move it a few meters in my driveway, turn it off and when try to start it back again it missfire like crazy so I leave it alone but haven't find the issue.
I need expert assistance haha
I'm currently hunting this on my 530 e39. It's driving me crazy. I replaced the whole vacuum system and I think I just narrowed it down to a bad O ring on my adjuster unit. 🤬
what adjuster unit?
I dont mind checking every little nail in the engine. But I do mind the cost. The car is going to be parked in my garage for 6 months coz I aint got no money to burn on it right now!
Hey Nathan thanks for sharing this with us! I'm also a e39 owner, I have a question what else except the o2 sensors can cause the engine not to go in a close loop bank one or both ?
I just m54 swapped my e30 and I’m curious because this sounds like my issue
What about when the code it's a P1353 cilinder misfire what should i do.
Any suggestions.
Thanks
What would you be your best guess if I have misfires only on cold start, having changed the valve cover and gasket, all coolant hoses, coils and plugs, all vacuum lines, new pcv hoses. I did buy the NKG 1 step colder plugs and gapped them to .022, and used the OEM eldor coils. I have a dinan stage 3 tune, so any thoughts might cause a cold start misfires. Minimal at worst, then cleans out to a very smooth running engine in maybe 5 minutes. Afterwards all starts, as long as the engine is still warm starts clean and purrs like a kitten. Any thoughts would be most appreciated. Oh, btw, I have a battery that is going bad. replacing it soon. Any possibility that might have something to do with it? Sincerely. Ben.
I have a 2002 330xi. It runs great the other day I started it and it ran rough like it was on 5 cil instead of 6. I made it home had no power now it won't start will that be a coil pack
Weird how these newer BMW's still have that big idle air control valve. I've been working on this nightmare e28 from 1986. It keeps fouling out plugs and runs like crap. After replacing everything except the fuel injectors. I'm pretty sure it's the injectors causing it. However, neither the original or the replacement IAC valve has a solid rattle like yours did. Are the old valves from that era supposed to have a satisfying rattle like the new ones too? Perhaps it isn't the injectors making it run rich? Maybe I just have two bad IAC valves? I want to fix that thing and get it out of my yard once and for all.
E39 540i. Same. Was coil pack to one cylinder.
Nathan, what about idle dips? Mine has this tiny problem that the idle drops to 500 rpm. Once the engine idles @700 rpm it idles just fine. That car drives just fine, engine starts fine. The only thing it does: approaching a stop, disengage the clutch (manual TM), rpm goes down to 500 rpm. Idle control valve overcorrects and shoots rpm up a bit and then setles down. back to normal idle. Also, when the rpm is dropping it does not catch it @ 800-900 rpm and then steps it down to 700 rpm. The ramp just falls down smoothly. I can't find anything wrong with the car.
The only strange thing is: when the eninge is not fully warmed up to short term fuel trim @idle are +10%. But this settles down to -2% @ idle once the car is warmed up.
Would carbon build up in the intake falling in cause cold start misfire
My e39 has the popping issue on cold startups, I’m assuming that’s vanos related?
thank you very much for this video served me a lot of help
I have a 2003 e39 530. Intermittently smokes on start runs rough for a minute then it's fine...it will also blow smoke once in a while when I stop at a light and hit the gas. Could this be the ccv or is it deeper than that?
hallo my friend .....i have m52 b20 engine 520i ..... cold start is not good.....iddle no problem...but acceleration it is very slow till 3000 3500 rpm than it is like take of....i undrstand not powerfull engine but at low rpm under load with ac on....when with the pedal gas nothing happens...in iddle gas pedal works fine takes the gas fine goes rpm fine ....?
I have a Bmw 525i e39 2003
Rough idle only on cold start, if I rev the car it stops when I drive of it doesn’t shake
I have changed all spark plugs all coil packs any help please
I have the exact same issue.. no solution as yet...
Did you solved the problem?
My e46 328ci did that today when I tried to start it, I just turn off the engine and then start it again and everything was fine again
Hey man love ur vids! My friend recently bought a 2000 323i and he successfully changed the valve cover gasket but when he took the top off there was a bunch of slimy crap like they tried to seal up the oil leak the lazy way (the previous owner)the car was running fine until i told him to put seafoam in the oil cap to clean it out , the car started to stumble alot & had no power ,then he got a pending error code pop up p0340 camshaft position sensor ,but then we replaced both bank 1 & bank1 & its still giving us the Pending code . Do u think the seafoam caused this beacuse the car was running decent before
What was ya issue?
I money shifted and got the problems you have
That’s a great video you did, I’m going to give you a ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ GREAT JOB.
have an bmw e39 1998 m52 520i when on cold start the rpm goes up and down like it gon turn off if you dont hit the gas pedal and the accleration si not constant its good when the car is cold but when it is hot or driven more the accleration is sluggish not enough power but sometimes the power comes back and goes away again no engine light no nothing just not enough power it feels like the car is heavy like a army tank haha i dont know how to explain it better please help please
Help!
Any updates
hi Nathan do you do any diagnostics on 4 cylinders? I have 2 codes p1100 and p1101 ive replaced the maf and still no change, you can clear code but comes back on after a while any advice gratefully received
Great video Nathan. Darn them BMWs are cantankerous vehicles. Excellent job 👍
I have an E46 330i and have cold start issue, sometimes resulting in code p1345: Misfire cylinder 2 with fuel cut off. And p1348 misfire cylinder 4 on start up. New genuine coils, ngk platinum spark plugs and new injectors installed to try and solve the issue, and it has not. The other day it misfired big time while driving after 20 mins. BMW don't know the answer or specialists, I'm stuck.
I have a mystery misfire on my E46 only at the first day start ! Means when i leave it about 10 hours more or less !
I have the new coils that i have all 6 changed with original beru and also all plugs with NGK ! CCV neu DISA neu VCG neu there is no vacuum leak All hoses neu all of them ! But during that phase of misfiring i can with only 100 rpm more curing than is nothing!
When i leave it misfiring there is only a 30 seconds of them and sometimes throws the code P1351
Battery voltage is 11.3 alternator voltage between 13.9 and 14.2
Car had 159k ( km) not miles 100k miles
Hi.Check and injectors
Do the non TU M52 engines have the CCV tube and the valve under the inlet manifold?
My 2001 325i sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders. But when I give it gas it hits on all 6. Any advice would be appreciated
mine sort of is the same. it just barely runs cold and the firing sounds all out of wack but after it heats up it seems to be fine. weirdest thing, scared to drive it anymore till i fix it though.
@@yfi62dortoh ...hey my e46 is starting better now. It was a cracked brake booster line. The big fat one that's connected under the intake manifold. It's located next to the fuel vapor inlet. It's a bitch to replace but you can do it without removing the intake manifold. Good luck...
Should I even be having these issues with a 2018 430i with 22k miles? It's starting to worry me.
Dear Nathan,
when I start my e46, the rpm goes immediately to maximum. I don't push anything!
Have you any tips?
thx
Appreciate you making these videos. Very informative!!
99bmwz3 cold start making popping noises from engine, runs rough, then smooths out after about 30 seconds or so....already deleted air pump, and deleted cvv vacuum...all lines blocked with a catch can installed....all coils new...all plugs new....
Any ideas?
Same problem ..... Did you solved the problem??
I have an03 325i car came from California so has the low emissions my problem is loss of power rpms at idle go up and down some and when they go low the oil light comes on any suggestions to my problem ty
Nathan, why does my BMW e63 jerk when I first start driving until the engine is at temperature.
My e53 2006 4.4i does the same
Cuz is junk
My E36 with M52tu does this. It’s so frustrating, trying to figure it out
i just did all this and more. just replaced the vanos and still get a cold misfire. i even did over night soak with seafoam in the cylinder heads. still misfire. i am at a loss.
I have an Uk E46 330ci which has a high idle, I have the following codes all of the time. I clear them they come straight back. 35 Activation, idle-speed control valve/opening coil & 1e activation, ignition cylinder 3. It’s been smoke tested, it’s had an new idle valve a new disa flap which helped. But it idles high like 1200-1500 after time it will drop down as soon as you touch the throttle it goes high again. If you turn the car off and restart it. The idle drops to normal touch the throttle and it goes high and stays high sometimes will drop back after a few mins, mostly stays high. Any ideas?? It doesn’t misfire
thanks always good information
What does that mean engine fail safe? I have a bmw 530 2002.
Any advice for eml light and limp mode when going over 3-4k rpm had lean codes but fixed ccv no more lean but now secondary air pump and mass air
@Arnold Rimmer awesome thanks ended up going thru 2-3 maf sensor from junk yard n online but got it working as soon as it started working fine radiator cracked or something left me stranded on side road smh hate rhis thing lol
I've had 4 of these pieces of shit and its always been the ccv! I've got one right now that has a pending p0369 and it runs fine even when I unplug the exhaust cam sensor it runs fine. No idea why
Mine misses in 4 cylinders and have to press the gas to keep it running to smoothe out
Can you tell me the reason why clunk sound ( hard shift) when press the lever shift from D to N, car jerk a bit.
E39 528i 1997,
Worn rear differential
Could be low/dirty transmission fluid?
On an e39 if the misfire code is coming up and coolant now leaking on bottom mean a blow head gasket ?
Always leave out the e85 from the list of m54 engine cars ;)
Hey, my 520i 2002 is misfiring. Found it’s the second cylinder coil, the new coil won’t pop onto the spark plug. It won’t seat even if I bolt it down. How do I get it to ‘pop onto the spark plug?? Thanks mate, any help??
use some silicone grease
...of course there is a serious design fault on the 323/328 E46 engines with self destructing VANOS that initially starts out with hunting/surging on cold start in the colder half of the year ;o) NEVER buy a 328 CI in the summer, trust me on that bruvs
My 728i crank and not start was running perfect than just cat of ,what could be the problem?can someone help please thanks
If I have one bad coil will or not run
My 03 e39 has rough start when cold ses light is on. It goes off sometimes for a few days. Car rides fine if I drive it and warm it up. But Boggs for a few when I first start driving it. Trying to narrow down the fix as well.
Disa valve? ..upstream oxygen sensors?
ok so I have a few ?s b4 I start replacing a bunch of parts. so let me give u the rundown. I have a 99 528i I love this car however i left the country for a bit and my car set for about two years and now in trying to get it running again Ive done a few things but when I start it it idles very rough and when I push the gas it bogs down and doesnt start running well for about ten mins or so. the codes its telling me is p1189 p1188 so I was just wondering what I should replace fist so that I dont spend a ton of money buying stuff I dont really need as money is tight right now the way it sounds I think it may be the fuel filter but dont want to do that if its not necessary what r ur thoughts on this I see that u have made a few videos and probably know waaaaaayyyyyy more then I do about these cars
BTW it ran just fine b4 i left the only thing iv had to do since i bought it about 4years ago is put a clip on one of the hoses that popped off that came out of the radiator area up front behind the fan