Download strelock on a smartphone or use a free ballistics calculator on the internet. Then buy a real cheap air rifle chronograph to give you an average speed over say 10 shots. With that information combined with the weight of the pellets your using, you can work out a Point Blank Zero range. If your a Hunter you could be taking quick snap shots anywhere between 20 yards to 50 yards, you won't always have time ( nearly allways ) to get your range finder out. A Point Blank Zero will allow you to shoot out to a specific range with your pellet landing within say a quarter inch high or low. I use this method on my .223 to shoot from 50yards to 200yards knowing I'm going to hit within a 2 inch area
Good advice Steve, you should do a video on how to use the turrets to move the reticle, I've seen new shooters getting confused as to which way to turn them.
Because of the arc of a sub 12 pellet would it not zero in 2 places eg 10m and 30m with the pellet hitting higher at 20m? I’ve not much idea about the reality of this but often wondered about it.
Hello Steve, good informative video, and your right telling people to zero there sights everytime. Especially if hunting, even the weather and temperature can alter your aim, and it only takes a few minutes to make sure that pellet is going were you've aimed it. Cheers.
My scope was made for my rifle, and the setup pamphlet is specific: 30 metres. That minimises need for hold-under and hold-over between 10 and 40 metres - it's within an inch. But that's the Far Zero Point, where the trajectory is descending through the cross-hairs. Few people realise that the Near Zero Point, where the trajectory is rising through the cross-hairs, is about halfway to the Far Zero Point. So your recommendation to zero to 15 metres will also zero the scope to about 30 metres, leaving only a little fine adjustment to be done on the 30 metre range. Good call. You also need to re-zero if you change pellet weight or profile because those will affect trajectory.
Good basic information here! I have 3 rifles I use for different purposes - all sub 12 ft-lb, a springer used for fun target at closer range - zeroed at 30 yds, a pcp used for the same zeroed at 40 yds, a pcp used for longer range target use zeroed at 50 yds. All .177 so flat trajectory gives 1 mil dot for each 20 yds +/- .
Good advice on setting up a new scope , personally for .177 I go ten meters 30 metres then 45 , for .22 10 ,20, 35 ,50 that's always worked for me. Hey Steve, there's a few of us who want to see you review a daystate airwolf ,I love the airwolfs, especially the tactical and the grey shadow version, it would be good to see you put one up against a redwolf .
Hi, I've watched a few of us videos , ♡ beginner but used air guns before. Im shooting targets @ 10 yds to 70 yds , where would you recommend zero scope ,177 pcp.
Hi Steve, would you mind doing a video of what air rifles you currently own and what you first started with in the time you have been on RUclips, I've seen the s410 you own and the video with the BSA lightening, (and the ultra and cricket) I've been watching since the beginning and now you are an air rifle addict like most of your viewers it would be nice to see you talk about your journey on RUclips with your rifles (hope you don't mind me asking for you to do a video like that ).
For myself I prefer to zero at 25yds for pest control and HFT. In .177 this means I'm only using the bottom half of the reticle. I sit down with a gun and put paper targets out at 8,10,12,15 and then every 5yds out to 55yds and write my aim points down as I shoot.
Hey mate , watching from NZ. How do you control your breathing when shooting. Do you fire on exhaling or hold your breath. I watched your videos and realised why I was missing a lot of longer range shots . Turns out I was using the overhold and under hold incorrectly with the mildots . Rookie mistake but hey now I know! Cheers mate . More videos please.
As a rule I start at 10meters with a new scope then move back in 5 meter increments so you can see pellet drop etc and adjust accordingly also it depends on calibre as .22 is different to .177 also when hunting try to shoot as close as possible as long range shots 40 meters etc are dodgy depending on weather and wind, those shots are more for fac guns although in the right hands 50 meter plus is capable only with experience
A tip for new shooters is use a big cardboard box at 10 meters and draw a black circle about an inch diameter in the centre and take a shot at it through the scope and see how far away you are away, if it is too far then you might need adjustable scope mounts like sports match or eagle vision or Hawke all do them then try again by adjusting scope mounts instead of scope and when you are near then adjust using scope side and top rings to finally zero in
Hi Steve I have my scope zeroed at 20 meters and I am going to go into the longer range at the rifle club witch has a 30 meter 40 meter and 60 meter I will start with the 30 meter next is this a good idea then shoot the farther ranges keep up the great reviews colin
my scope came loose and i had to zero the scope at 10 yards. my spotlight went out and i can't get back on. i am shooting at night. i think i get the scope zeroed in at 20 yards in the morning.
Great advice, always start close, always re check you zero! From my inner geek side an interesting point is with a sub 12 air rifle, whether it is 22 or 177, 15m and 30m zero should always be a matter of an inch or 2 of each other depending on pellets. MRD or Most Recommended Distance can be found in most ballistics calculators and if you use a .2 inch kill zone for air rifles it works out very nicely for giving the best zero for quick shots with minimal hold over, a gnats nuts really over a 25m variation in range usually. People wonder why you need to rezero on the day, for one thing if you use your back garden it can have very specific wind anomaly's so when you go somewhere else its a totally different L/R zero, secondly the atmospheric conditions on the day have more effect than people think and lastly what you are wearing will very often change your holding of the gun and head position hence POA and POI
But if you zero at 10 m, you maybee cannot use your reticle for 100 m target. It depends also on the type of reticle, doesn´t it? So it is probably good idea let some space down and up as well.
My 97k & hawke 6 - 24 x50 is always zero'd to 55yards the maximum of the range i go to. I use 11x mag / h&n ttf 8.64gr , can 5p group regulary , absolutely stock rifle 2017 model.
If you can hit a target dead on, smaller than a dime at 10 yards, you'll hit targets easily from 10-25 yds, and easy adjustment for 30yd shot. Also get a gun that is at least 1000fps
Download strelock on a smartphone or use a free ballistics calculator on the internet.
Then buy a real cheap air rifle chronograph to give you an average speed over say 10 shots. With that information combined with the weight of the pellets your using, you can work out a Point Blank Zero range.
If your a Hunter you could be taking quick snap shots anywhere between 20 yards to 50 yards, you won't always have time ( nearly allways ) to get your range finder out.
A Point Blank Zero will allow you to shoot out to a specific range with your pellet landing within say a quarter inch high or low.
I use this method on my .223 to shoot from 50yards to 200yards knowing I'm going to hit within a 2 inch area
Good advice Steve, you should do a video on how to use the turrets to move the reticle, I've seen new shooters getting confused as to which way to turn them.
Added to the list mate, thanks for watching
Because of the arc of a sub 12 pellet would it not zero in 2 places eg 10m and 30m with the pellet hitting higher at 20m? I’ve not much idea about the reality of this but often wondered about it.
You are correct
Nice to hear you confirm my own thinking. Interesting information. Thank you
Hi mate. You just need to add that zeroing ideally needs to be done in a wind free environment.. Great vid!
Yup forgot that, tried to keep to 5 mins
Hello Steve, good informative video, and your right telling people to zero there sights everytime. Especially if hunting, even the weather and temperature can alter your aim, and it only takes a few minutes to make sure that pellet is going were you've aimed it. Cheers.
Thanks Ray, great advice about temperature
My scope was made for my rifle, and the setup pamphlet is specific: 30 metres. That minimises need for hold-under and hold-over between 10 and 40 metres - it's within an inch. But that's the Far Zero Point, where the trajectory is descending through the cross-hairs.
Few people realise that the Near Zero Point, where the trajectory is rising through the cross-hairs, is about halfway to the Far Zero Point. So your recommendation to zero to 15 metres will also zero the scope to about 30 metres, leaving only a little fine adjustment to be done on the 30 metre range. Good call.
You also need to re-zero if you change pellet weight or profile because those will affect trajectory.
Good basic information here! I have 3 rifles I use for different purposes - all sub 12 ft-lb, a springer used for fun target at closer range - zeroed at 30 yds, a pcp used for the same zeroed at 40 yds, a pcp used for longer range target use zeroed at 50 yds. All .177 so flat trajectory gives 1 mil dot for each 20 yds +/- .
Excellent and thanks for watching and the kind comments.
That's clear as crystal. Bravo!
Thanks for these videos. Very informative for a beginner :)
Good advice on setting up a new scope , personally for .177 I go ten meters 30 metres then 45 , for .22 10 ,20, 35 ,50 that's always worked for me.
Hey Steve, there's a few of us who want to see you review a daystate airwolf ,I love the airwolfs, especially the tactical and the grey shadow version, it would be good to see you put one up against a redwolf .
Will try and find one to review.
Not a comment on the video, which is spot on, but I have to say, that Impact looks the dogs danglies all kitted out with that scope.
Thanks for watching buddy. Yeah the FX looks and shoots great
Steve I've zeroed my sight on that MTC scope you haven't returned in the background ! Presumed you told Tony it got lost in the post!
Sort of :)
Nicely explained and good advice always check your zero..Dave
Thanks Dave
Hi, I've watched a few of us videos , ♡ beginner but used air guns before.
Im shooting targets @ 10 yds to 70 yds , where would you recommend zero scope ,177 pcp.
35yds!
Hi Steve, would you mind doing a video of what air rifles you currently own and what you first started with in the time you have been on RUclips,
I've seen the s410 you own and the video with the BSA lightening, (and the ultra and cricket)
I've been watching since the beginning and now you are an air rifle addict like most of your viewers it would be nice to see you talk about your journey on RUclips with your rifles (hope you don't mind me asking for you to do a video like that ).
Nice idea, I have done this already on one of my face to face interviews. Check out the video where Abby asks me questions.
Short and to the point Steve nice one 🚖👍
Thanks and please share the channel
Top advice Steve!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks buddy, please share
For myself I prefer to zero at 25yds for pest control and HFT. In .177 this means I'm only using the bottom half of the reticle. I sit down with a gun and put paper targets out at 8,10,12,15 and then every 5yds out to 55yds and write my aim points down as I shoot.
i agree Bill. i too like 25 yds. everything closer or farther will be a holdover. eliminates the confusion of hold under.
Perfect for those more advanced and looking for further tips
Hey mate , watching from NZ.
How do you control your breathing when shooting. Do you fire on exhaling or hold your breath.
I watched your videos and realised why I was missing a lot of longer range shots . Turns out I was using the overhold and under hold incorrectly with the mildots . Rookie mistake but hey now I know!
Cheers mate . More videos please.
I personal shoot at the end of a short exhale when body is at rest and at natural aim
As a rule I start at 10meters with a new scope then move back in 5 meter increments so you can see pellet drop etc and adjust accordingly also it depends on calibre as .22 is different to .177 also when hunting try to shoot as close as possible as long range shots 40 meters etc are dodgy depending on weather and wind, those shots are more for fac guns although in the right hands 50 meter plus is capable only with experience
Nice info, thanks for commenting
A tip for new shooters is use a big cardboard box at 10 meters and draw a black circle about an inch diameter in the centre and take a shot at it through the scope and see how far away you are away, if it is too far then you might need adjustable scope mounts like sports match or eagle vision or Hawke all do them then try again by adjusting scope mounts instead of scope and when you are near then adjust using scope side and top rings to finally zero in
I was asking myself just that question and you popped up. Telepathy or what? Ha ha! Thanks
One thing, the better quality the mounts the less chance of massive zero shift,
HIGH QUALITY PREMIUM SPORTS MATCH, you can't go wrong with them.
Yup, thanks for mentioning
Thanks very helpful
I only shoot targets for fun and competition and I always check zero because temperature cane also affect zero
Good point.
Hi Steve I have my scope zeroed at 20 meters and I am going to go into the longer range at the rifle club witch has a 30 meter 40 meter and 60 meter I will start with the 30 meter next is this a good idea then shoot the farther ranges keep up the great reviews colin
Yes pick the mid point, then your hold over and unders are easier to manage
Hey Steve.
Love your channel. Just got me a hw97k in .177
What is the heaviest pellet I can use?
Greetings from South Africa.
You can get up to 15gr 177 pellets. JSB Beasts I think they are called, i have a tin. It all depends on your power output you have though.
my scope came loose and i had to zero the scope at 10 yards. my spotlight went out and i can't get back on. i am shooting at night. i think i get the scope zeroed in at 20 yards in the morning.
30 yards for me but I only shoot hft
When I did shoot game was 25yrdsand I’d not shoot over 30
So true !
thanks
Great advice, always start close, always re check you zero! From my inner geek side an interesting point is with a sub 12 air rifle, whether it is 22 or 177, 15m and 30m zero should always be a matter of an inch or 2 of each other depending on pellets. MRD or Most Recommended Distance can be found in most ballistics calculators and if you use a .2 inch kill zone for air rifles it works out very nicely for giving the best zero for quick shots with minimal hold over, a gnats nuts really over a 25m variation in range usually.
People wonder why you need to rezero on the day, for one thing if you use your back garden it can have very specific wind anomaly's so when you go somewhere else its a totally different L/R zero, secondly the atmospheric conditions on the day have more effect than people think and lastly what you are wearing will very often change your holding of the gun and head position hence POA and POI
Thanks buddy, great comments and advice
10m
as long as you know you hold overs and unders it does'nt matter
True, but makes sense to zero to your mid point unless very specific and then, zero to that.
But if you zero at 10 m, you maybee cannot use your reticle for 100 m target. It depends also on the type of reticle, doesn´t it? So it is probably good idea let some space down and up as well.
Like....a LOT!
My 97k & hawke 6 - 24 x50 is always zero'd to 55yards the maximum of the range i go to.
I use 11x mag / h&n ttf 8.64gr , can 5p group regulary , absolutely stock rifle 2017 model.
What works for you is good, mainly aimed at beginners this series, but great info for others.
I think the BIGGEST question is- what is that hairstyle all about??
...remains unanswered...
If you can hit a target dead on, smaller than a dime at 10 yards, you'll hit targets easily from 10-25 yds, and easy adjustment for 30yd shot. Also get a gun that is at least 1000fps