The FPS of a flywheel setup isn't really determined by how powerful the motors are. If you need to drop FPS, use a lower crush cage or lower diameter wheels. The only exceptions are with high-crush, low-diameter setups like Eclipse, or ultra high crush setups which have a higher critical speed than 33k RPM (41.5 and high-crush Worker wheels hits 170s with Wolverines, which turn at 44k RPM). Stepping down to Meishel 2.0s would increase spin-up time and keep velocity pretty much constant.
You can always drop 132 motors into a Regulator without shell-cutting. There's plenty of space, just finding a metal canted flywheel cage is the problem, either that or just use an OFP cage.
i was at Ragnaroktoerfest hvz, and i was not on your team. i heard that blaster and thought that it was scary. i ended up fighting alongside you at the last stand. it was amazing.
Cap! How was the barrel alignment with the flywheels? The ballbearing on the FangRV is a little taller then most motors and it prevented my wheels (Black worker) from being seated low enough into my worker 425 Cage align with the barrel properly (close but still a bit too high). Curious if you ran into that with yours.
nice, I've heard about these spacers (motor shims) and was considering homebrewing a set out of acrylic, curious if the included cage screws are too shallow to allow them to be used though.
I do not think I really need the flywheel cage if I get their accurate flywheels because the flywheel cages are like $35. My question is if I use the ones almost the same as yours do I (NEED) it. I am very thankful if you read this.
Captn. Red thread locker will only come loose if you apply heat to it. Blue thread locker doesn’t require heat, therefore being the better option for a (plastic based) nerf gun. (I know the cage, motor, and wheels are metal, but it’s better not not damage anything.)
Oh, well then you got the weird brand that puts blue thread-locker in a red bottle and puts a blue stripe on the label. 🤗. If the threadlocker is blue then everything’s alright.
Hi Captain, thanks for all the fantastic videos. I have a few question regarding motors here goes: 1) I don’t think I have seen you do a burnin of the motors you use (I saw that MTB did it in one of their early videos), is this not necessary with the motors available these days? 2) Have you tried the Kelly industries motor boards ? 2b) If yes what do you think of them? 3) When upgrading a rapidstrike, which combination of motors would you recommend? 3b) How would you regulate the rate of fire? 3c) Would you use the same motor for pusher and fly wheels? 4) which material would you use for spacers for fang revamps? Best regards and highest of respect from Denmark
1) Burnin? 2) Not yet 2a) See 2 3) It depends what kind of performance you want. 3a) Some manner of PWM 3c) See 3 4) Not sure yet. I will probably experiment.
1) Ryan from MTB does it in this video ruclips.net/video/yRspanhxKEM/видео.html but if you don’t have any problems with your motor burning out then I guess it won’t be a problem not doing it? 3) I was thinking LARP friendly (guessing in line with HvZ) and a rate of fire a little faster than shock but not to insane (I know than auto fire burns faster through ammo but still). 4) will look forward to see what you come up with 😁
1) Huh...I have never even heard of that process...what is it for? 3) I would go with an all Mishiel 2 or Fang Re-vamp setup then. Possibly with a PWM on the pusher motor. Much more than that and you will be pushing the limits of most HvZ's.
It is a 2s, .95, 65c battery. Not great for a primary that is going to see a lot of action as the capacity is not great but since HvZ is generally low engagement I have never had an issue.
@@CaptainXavier well my squad told me metal get like 10ft extra but take the tips of all your darts but I need more power for my master key so I'm wondering if plastic or metal is better
Hey cap, I'm curious about dart wear with the worker flywheels. I've scoured the internet and it seems the jury is 50/50 still. I've shied away from thus far because of the possible dart wear issue. I kinda want my darts to last a while, another reason I dont run a high crush cage either. Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
@@CaptainXavier sorry, wasnt sure if perhaps you already had some worker flywheels in another blaster. That setup sounds lovely, I adore the sound of the revamped fangs. And just a heads up I have a couple mods I'm working on for your feature fan builds. Although at my current free time rate wont be till spring haha. Love your channel keep up the great work sir!
RGBGamer it would be a low crush setup. I'm just concerned with the serrated edge causing more dart wear than I'd like. I'm not worried about high fps as much as I am about destroying my darts.
@@blasterparties7178 Just don't use metal wheels. They don't grip on to darts well enough and they do increase dart wear especially on low crush. Use Bulldogs, Out Of Darts Insutanto wheels, or Containment Crew Cyclone. If you are running 43mm or 43.5mm cage I recommend the Worker Smooth Concave POM Plastic. Here is the link: outofdarts.com/products/worker-425-no-grain-flywheel-pair?_pos=1&_sid=0e6121470&_ss=r Don't use those with 42.5mm because they are larger than usual I recommend them with this cage: outofdarts.com/products/worker-metal-flywheel-cage?_pos=1&_sid=5ad0f6581&_ss=r And either Fang Revamped: outofdarts.com/products/fang-revamped-130-2s-neo-motor-for-nerf-blasters?_pos=2&_sid=d46f275ab&_ss=r Or Meishel 2.0: outofdarts.com/products/meishel-2-0-130-2s-motor-for-nerf-blasters?_pos=1&_sid=a868397b4&_ss=r And this battery: outofdarts.com/products/graphene-950mah-xt60?_pos=3&_sid=0142fa5cc&_ss=r The battery is out of stock though and will be back in stock in about 5-6 weeks. Good luck with your mod!
![Chlöe - Shake (Feat. Jeremih) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aDs_1ufpfv8/mqdefault.jpg)
The FPS of a flywheel setup isn't really determined by how powerful the motors are. If you need to drop FPS, use a lower crush cage or lower diameter wheels. The only exceptions are with high-crush, low-diameter setups like Eclipse, or ultra high crush setups which have a higher critical speed than 33k RPM (41.5 and high-crush Worker wheels hits 170s with Wolverines, which turn at 44k RPM). Stepping down to Meishel 2.0s would increase spin-up time and keep velocity pretty much constant.
Captain, just wanted to thank you for so many educational videos because I now have my own modded Stryfe it was such a fun and rewarding project.
You can always drop 132 motors into a Regulator without shell-cutting. There's plenty of space, just finding a metal canted flywheel cage is the problem, either that or just use an OFP cage.
Love the blaster video suggestion video on how you do your Master key mod.
i was at Ragnaroktoerfest hvz, and i was not on your team. i heard that blaster and thought that it was scary. i ended up fighting alongside you at the last stand. it was amazing.
Awesome! Did you survive?
@@CaptainXavier yes
U are fricking awesome, this clip pulled me in to modding. Keep up the good work!!
Wow I didn't know these worker motors were that big.
Cap! How was the barrel alignment with the flywheels? The ballbearing on the FangRV is a little taller then most motors and it prevented my wheels (Black worker) from being seated low enough into my worker 425 Cage align with the barrel properly (close but still a bit too high). Curious if you ran into that with yours.
I did run into the same issue. I think the Worker motors actually come with a spacer to fix this issue. I may try using them in this build.
nice, I've heard about these spacers (motor shims) and was considering homebrewing a set out of acrylic, curious if the included cage screws are too shallow to allow them to be used though.
Possibly. We will find out the next time I get it open
You should print off an mhp 15 when the mk2 comes out
Well that sounds amazing.
Put them in the ultra 2🤘🏼
Jeez cap! How do you manage to have break time when you put out 3 vids in one day?
7 so far actually. I post 4 on my Lego channel so far today.
Captain Xavier oh my... all I’ve done all day was stare at blueprints, eat and not do anything I planned for my hanmershot
Because our dear captain is a WITCH!
Maybe bulk recording?
I was thinking about putting sounds foam in mine but don't know why I never see that?
Doing what?
I do not think I really need the flywheel cage if I get their accurate flywheels because the flywheel cages are like $35. My question is if I use the ones almost the same as yours do I (NEED) it. I am very thankful if you read this.
No. There are plenty of much cheaper cages that are just as good. The OFP cages are great.
@@CaptainXavier Thanks Cap
Captn. Red thread locker will only come loose if you apply heat to it. Blue thread locker doesn’t require heat, therefore being the better option for a (plastic based) nerf gun. (I know the cage, motor, and wheels are metal, but it’s better not not damage anything.)
It is blue...at least the contents are...
Oh, well then you got the weird brand that puts blue thread-locker in a red bottle and puts a blue stripe on the label. 🤗. If the threadlocker is blue then everything’s alright.
does anyone know motors that work with Worker Coolook AA Lithium Iron Carbonate Battery
Where’s that hand-guard from? I know you’ve said in a previous video but I can’t find it now.
RE Armory
The artifact 132s are super loud anyway, at least they seem to be from every video I've seen of them
I hate 132 size motors because they need shell cutting like 180s might as well just go the full 180s since they are more powerful.
Do you think motor spacers will be necessary with neo rhinos in this cage?
No idea. Never used a neo rhino.
Hi Captain, thanks for all the fantastic videos. I have a few question regarding motors here goes:
1) I don’t think I have seen you do a burnin of the motors you use (I saw that MTB did it in one of their early videos), is this not necessary with the motors available these days?
2) Have you tried the Kelly industries motor boards ?
2b) If yes what do you think of them?
3) When upgrading a rapidstrike, which combination of motors would you recommend?
3b) How would you regulate the rate of fire?
3c) Would you use the same motor for pusher and fly wheels?
4) which material would you use for spacers for fang revamps?
Best regards and highest of respect from Denmark
1) Burnin?
2) Not yet
2a) See 2
3) It depends what kind of performance you want.
3a) Some manner of PWM
3c) See 3
4) Not sure yet. I will probably experiment.
1) Ryan from MTB does it in this video ruclips.net/video/yRspanhxKEM/видео.html but if you don’t have any problems with your motor burning out then I guess it won’t be a problem not doing it?
3) I was thinking LARP friendly (guessing in line with HvZ) and a rate of fire a little faster than shock but not to insane (I know than auto fire burns faster through ammo but still).
4) will look forward to see what you come up with 😁
1) Huh...I have never even heard of that process...what is it for?
3) I would go with an all Mishiel 2 or Fang Re-vamp setup then. Possibly with a PWM on the pusher motor. Much more than that and you will be pushing the limits of most HvZ's.
1) apparently it is for testing the motors and to ensure maximum performance...
3) cool, I will be looking into making a PWM. Any suggestions?
Why don't you make an afterburner barrel extension with the battey in the foregrip
It is on the list. It is just not actually useful so it has never made it to the top of the list.
I think I'm going to have to replicate this :P what is the battery you use? It must be tiny! The one I use for my fangs revamped is so chunky :(
It is a 2s, .95, 65c battery. Not great for a primary that is going to see a lot of action as the capacity is not great but since HvZ is generally low engagement I have never had an issue.
The worker motors are 132size just as the motors that were in your blaster
They are 3s motors, his blaster runs on 2s, and 132s rattle and make too much noise.
Do metal or plastic flywheels get better range?
I've never noticed much of a difference. Others may have.
@@CaptainXavier well my squad told me metal get like 10ft extra but take the tips of all your darts but I need more power for my master key so I'm wondering if plastic or metal is better
@@CaptainXavier obviously you know a lot about modding due to your worldwide name in the hobby anyway thanks for the feedback
4 vids in one day ? THATSSSS A RECORD
7 actually. I posted several to my Lego channel
@@CaptainXavier ah huh didnt get those notifications ,ughhh my sub box sux
What pack are you using and where did u get it
2s, .95mha, 65c. I think OutofDarts sells them.
K and I have a pair of fangs, can they fit in a stock stryfe shell with the Kelly industries motor board, so it’s not as loud as your old hvz stryfe
I assume so.
The motors are 132 size.
Springers or flywheels?
Yes?
I think he means depends on situation or why not both?
Springers but also air magic
Eir
@@harrisontashjian752 yes!
To many videos in one day
I'm trying to figure out what was said at the intro LOL
"Look at all this loot!" "None for you!"
@@CaptainXavier oh LMAO I see now
I could get the first part but just not the end
Hey cap, I'm curious about dart wear with the worker flywheels. I've scoured the internet and it seems the jury is 50/50 still. I've shied away from thus far because of the possible dart wear issue. I kinda want my darts to last a while, another reason I dont run a high crush cage either.
Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
No idea yet, I just installed it.
@@CaptainXavier sorry, wasnt sure if perhaps you already had some worker flywheels in another blaster. That setup sounds lovely, I adore the sound of the revamped fangs.
And just a heads up I have a couple mods I'm working on for your feature fan builds. Although at my current free time rate wont be till spring haha.
Love your channel keep up the great work sir!
Depends on crush, a low crush worker wheel setup is not too bad, the highest crush possible is as bad as eclipse.
RGBGamer it would be a low crush setup. I'm just concerned with the serrated edge causing more dart wear than I'd like. I'm not worried about high fps as much as I am about destroying my darts.
@@blasterparties7178 Just don't use metal wheels. They don't grip on to darts well enough and they do increase dart wear especially on low crush. Use Bulldogs, Out Of Darts Insutanto wheels, or Containment Crew Cyclone.
If you are running 43mm or 43.5mm cage I recommend the Worker Smooth Concave POM Plastic. Here is the link: outofdarts.com/products/worker-425-no-grain-flywheel-pair?_pos=1&_sid=0e6121470&_ss=r
Don't use those with 42.5mm because they are larger than usual I recommend them with this cage: outofdarts.com/products/worker-metal-flywheel-cage?_pos=1&_sid=5ad0f6581&_ss=r
And either Fang Revamped: outofdarts.com/products/fang-revamped-130-2s-neo-motor-for-nerf-blasters?_pos=2&_sid=d46f275ab&_ss=r
Or Meishel 2.0: outofdarts.com/products/meishel-2-0-130-2s-motor-for-nerf-blasters?_pos=1&_sid=a868397b4&_ss=r
And this battery: outofdarts.com/products/graphene-950mah-xt60?_pos=3&_sid=0142fa5cc&_ss=r
The battery is out of stock though and will be back in stock in about 5-6 weeks. Good luck with your mod!
Science the crap out of the motors... for science.