Fixing an Overloaded Ryobi One+ Battery Charger
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Was working on electrical stuff with a friend - who had left his battery charger plugged into the circuits he was messing with. Also, some idiot had previously used a white wire as a hot wire, and didn't identify it with tape or anything. So this charger got zapped with 240 volts. It made a little 'pop' but that was it.
Sorry, I didn't have the foresight to record the diagnosis. That proceeded as follows:
Smell test - does it smell crispy? No
Visual test - does it look crispy? No
Check fuses - good
Check for voltage going through varistors - check
Check for voltage going through diodes/bridge rectifier - check
Check for voltage entering transformer - fail!
Part replaced: TOP256EN
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sqeiOkSNRsU/mqdefault.jpg)
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](/img/tr.png)
I received seven broken ones and was able to repair 5 of them - Two were severely water damaged and not repairable. My tips: Check ALL of the through hole diodes with the diode test mode on your multimeter. One had a bad 1N5408 diode at D3. Some models have a SMD resistor at position R71 labeled "R500" which is a .5 ohm resistor and was open on three of the units. I had 1 ohm quarter watt resistors and paralleled two of them to replace them. There is enough room to tack them on the SMD pads. That will restore the 5V and the power light should come on when you plug it in. Another had R8 open which is marked "100" and is a 10 ohm SMD resistor which I replaced with a tacked on 1/4 watt 10 ohm resistor. I had to replace the TOP256ENs on some of the ones with the open resistors. The other secondary produces approx. 36VDC at the common pin on the TO-220 dual diode marked "D20". So if the power light is on and you measure approx. 36V at the common of D20, you should be able to test the charger. Be sure the unit is unplugged and that capacitors E1 and E2 are drained or discharge them before you start working on the board. - There is approx. 350V across both of the capacitors in series and they will bite you.
When you couldn't open the thermal paste, you should have yelled "honey! Can you open this please!?"
Can I send you my hilti c 7/36 acs?
I've got a million other projects going. Honesty, I have a problem lol
Sir my same charger made a small burst sound , smoke came out from it and some smell and when i opened it i thibk a small amount of liquid was coming out of two big black capacitor at end
Which had KM (M) and F 2 A and 150 ° CH printed on it
Will changing the capacitor solve my problem ?
And if yes
Then where can i get one ?
Is there any other problem ?
The capacitors need to be replaced, however, something else must have caused them to burst. Likely the main rectifier diodes are shorted out. They can be checked with a multimeter. Electronic components can be had from many different online stores.
Capacitors are valued in capacity(uf) and voltage (v).
I have one with power, but no charging. So I bought a new one and that one became no power within the month...I have a small black one that came with a kit that still works along with a much older one that still works (looks more stubby than these new models).
So I been trying to troubleshoot the new non working one, well physical inspection led to 0 clues. Put on the mm looking for shorts, the resistor shows 220 and it's in fact giving the normal 20 ohms. That r500 (location r71) I can't get an ohm reading, but since it's only a .5 ohm I don't think multimeters can actually detect that? Basically I'm not getting a reading from any resistor under an ohm and there's a few on this device. How does one safely check the ac/dc switch (top256en)? I took off the small bracket holding it to the heatsink and it looks ok. on the white side I can see light browning but other than that looks perfect.
The older one with power but no charge may be a lost cause, it looks like somebody already repaired it and it's bathed in leftover flux. Add to my problems it isn't even the same pcb even though they're the same model. Symptoms: red light blinks I hear a click then light goes solid red and it never charges the battery. I thought maybe cause I kept them in the garage but that older one has been sitting there longer than the other two and STILL WORKS.
Here's a nice little bonus, BRAND NEW BATTERY wouldn't charge after a few uses, turns out one of the cells was really low so I did the bypass balancer and direct charge got it working a few more times and it's back to non-working. The chargers that work say it's fully charged but it wont drive any of the tools. I suspect I can open it again to find that cell really low once again.
Ryobi tools may be ok, but those chargers and batteries suck.
I think a resistor marked 220 would be 22 and 0 zeros, so 22 ohm. 500 would be 50 and 0 zeros, so 50 ohms. Pretty sure, anyway. Resistors under 1 ohm are rare, that's like super precision stuff. Modern resistors drifting high or low is pretty uncommon. That's something you see in ancient tube electronics, because A, resistors were not as well made as they are now, B, they're literally 50+ years old now, and C, they handle high voltages and currents. Excepting bigger power resistors, and visibly crispy resistors, I would not really concern myself with checking resistors.
The TOP256EN will have voltage coming out of it, and going to the transformer. It will be high frequency AC, not sure how well an ordinary meter will read it, but it should read something. IIRC, somewhere in the 100-200v range. As long as it's more than 0, really.
For the one that has power, I wonder if there's a relay involved that enables charging. That might be what clicks. Check the solder joints on that for cracks. The relay might be bad, even. As a matter of fact, inspect all large solder joints for cracks. That's legit the FIRST thing I always look for on any circuit board I inspect - number one problem. I wouldn't really worry about the excess flux. While I have found that it conducts electricity, in my personal experience, it's only really an issue in tube electronics - again, 400+ volts. Granted, modern solid state electronics also have some very sensitive components that can be thrown off by a tiny bit of conductance.
You can always wash it off.
Also, the relay may be clicking over, and the computer doesn't get any feedback, so it errors out, hence the solid red light. That could mean anything, though.
Hi, got a ryobi supercharger 6 port that stopped working, I bought another but don't want to toss out the broken one cause I reckon it's an easy fix, tried having a go at it but still can't get it to work.
If it just stopped out of the blue, I'd suspect a varistor or diode. Read the comments here, there's some other folks giving advice.
Exactly what I'm looking for. Unfortunately I don't have the safety bits to open my unit up yet.
Try Harbor Freight. There's probably one local to you, and it's cheap AF.
Thanks for sharing. This was a life saver ☺️👍
Gracias let me go until you if we were you thinking Ghostbuster thank you
Hey mine just failed. I don't have any voltage on the secondary side of the BCK2801 transformer. Is the transformer at fault or could a component connected to it be the cause? Every pin on the primary side of the transformer has 172v. On the secondary side they are 0.5v. I tested all the electrolytics and the leaded diodes and caps. All fine.Thanks
A transformer is a simple thing. Unlikely that it's fried, you would see and smell it. Each coil of the transformer should be continuous. Slim chance it just went open circuit, but you should check. On the primary side, is it AC or DC? It should be AC and it should be high frequency. Would be great if you could read the frequency. I would suspect the transistor thingy (it's the one doing all the hard work), but it might be the supporting circuitry.
Greeting from 🇩🇿
Excellent video,any tips on how to convert DeWalt charger dcb107 from 110v to 220v.
I am not sure. I believe the TOP256 chip is not responsible for that, as it's rated for a breakdown voltage of 700v. I think the support circuitry that triggers it on an off is responsible for that, and I'm not that knowledgeable about the finer points of electrical engineering like that.
Big Clive has a video similar to what you want: ruclips.net/video/ZNenxTVzFH0/видео.html
shot in the dark here but what size is the soldered in input fuse .. mine blew and having a hard time tracking down info
No idea. This was years ago, and not even my thing, so I can't just check. Tubular glass fuses are typically stamped on the metal ends the voltage and amperage. Might be impossible to read it without snipping it out and inspecting it.
Excellent video, Thank you !
very very thank you, it happen with me also
Worked
It just HURTZ....
I’ll see myself out.
huehuehue
Perfect thanks.. you covered all the bases. now i wont fry my self trying to fix mine. do you have a link to the mosfet you purchased?
TOP256EN at DigiKey: www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=TOP256EN
@@madmanmapper Thanks!
Where can at buy the black transformer
Digikey.com
great job where did you get the part i have same problem with mine
digikey.com though it can be had from most online electronics component suppliers. mouser.com would be another one.
thank you do they ship quick?
@@AimeMOfficial I've had good luck with them, picking the cheapest (USPS) shipping.
Excellent Work... Thumbs Up !!
did you notice the hole in one of the capacitors?
...nope?
Hi mate mi charger is stai red light all the time I tri all my baterry and is still red not charge ,can you give me a tip
If the red light is on, the power supply front end of it is probably working fine. Could there be something wrong with the battery? Or maybe the battery charging contacts that connect to the battery, in the charger are broken.
@@madmanmapper thanks I will have a look
@madmanmapper the battery are ok I use other charger and they get charge I put any battery and still stai on red light and not charge
Where can at buy the black transformer
Hello and Thanks for the video, I repaired one with similar problem, I replaced the TOP256EN, and the charger worked fine, i charged two batteries with success, then when I unplug the charger, and plug it back again within minutes, the IC burned again I found that I had to wait about and hour unplugged to use it again, I don't know why the big capacitors are not discharge fast enough. If you have any idea where the problem is, I will appreciate it. Thanks.
Read the comment by reasonablebeing. Excepting that, I would aim for the varistors in the beginning power supply area (they have a limited life span [in number of inrush current spikes]), as well as the smoothing capacitors in that area, just after the full bridge rectifier. Also, if the IC is dead, the capacitors will take forever to discharge, as there is nowhere for their charge to go.
I have to figure out why my Hilti c7/36 ACS charger power's up but says the batteries are bad and they're not.
Can I sent you this ?? Please help me repair it
What is the cost of two capacitors and fuse ?
I have two of these both not working. Both failed almost exactly the same way. I was working in my attic and left it there during the week as I had all my tools there and the next weekend it didn't work. Ryobi replaced it once and it did it again.
I've been through both of them. One has a circuit board with the r71 and r50 resistors talked about in another P117 repair video. I went through one of them and the high voltage header has 300+v but that is where the voltage stops. There's no voltage on the 2nd header. I've tried to check the 2nd header areas to see if I can find where there's voltage on the high side and none on the 2nd side. I can't find anything nor any evidence of burn or discoloring.
I'd love some ideas.
That 300v should be DC, that's like rectified AC. Check for AC voltage coming out of the transformer. If nothing is there, and you have DC power on the high voltage side, it's probably failed in a similar manner to mine. Even mine, which was violently introduced to 240v, did not show any signs of burning. But sure enough, power was going into the switching transistor, but not coming out.
@@madmanmapper Ok, will check that midrange header transformer as much as I can. I have two of these so can compare. Thanks, Marc
@@madmanmapper Also, do you have a source for the Click 1611 E199817 SB14.2 transformer? I've tried searching but haven't found anything with a similar footprint.
@@MarcMarchioli No, sorry. This type of thing is really not something I do every day. But I kinda doubt the transformer took a dump just being in an attic overnight. It if got too hot up there, I would really recommend looking at the electrolytics, but I doubt you'd get 300vdc if they were dry. Not sure.
@@madmanmapper I'm going to first replace the IC TOP256EN chip. It sits on the midrange header and is very heat sensitive and has a reputation of going bad.
Any idea what voltage the transfer puts out when the charger is working properly (without a battery plugged in)? I have 2 chargers with the same symptom (no lights) but I have 120v on one side of the transformer and 50v on the other side. Knowing where you probed to diagnose the issue would be awesome.
Honestly it was a year ago, and the charger is not in my possession. Where I probed was basically from the beginning until I found the power no longer existed. In my case, that was right up until the switching transistor. Since you are getting power on the secondary of the transformer, that means the first stages of the power supply are working, at least to some degree. The later stages are more technical than I'm comfortable with, at least for armchair engineering. There are some varistors, diodes, and smoothing capacitors after the transformer, I would check those first. The best thing to do is a visual inspection. Unfortunately as electronics get smaller and smaller, that gets ever more difficult. But as you can see, if my case the transistor was visibly cracked... but I had to remove the clamp to see that. Look for anything burned or scorched, cracked, deformed, etc. The other very common problem with any electronics is broken solder joints, especially larger ones, and ones supporting large items like big capacitors and such.
You may also want to double check your first readings. IIRC, the transformer has multiple windings, verify that you're following the power coming out of the switching transistor. Also, there is another transistor on the other large aluminum heatsink, that's probably another switching transistor for the later stages, that might be bad. The comment by reasonablebeing may also be helpful to you!
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
Can you put flux on a capacitor?
You're suppose to flux any and every joint that makes contact with the pcb, before I knew this I went in raw. How it's been explained to me in the most layman terms, the flux lets the solder stick. The reason sometimes you're able to w/o it, is some solder comes with some flux on it.
(ruclips.net/video/RNkjR4FUU_0/видео.html)
I just hope you don't mean on the actual capacitors as opposed to the terminals on the caps.
@@llehsaderob I loved your ick videos. The flux capacitor question was a play on words from Back to the Future
@@durangojoe1123 yea I'm a dumbass, reminds me to never take the comment section too serious
Thank you!
Hi sir
Nice video
I am from india
Hello mi cargador p117 no enciende ninguna luz al conectarlo y revise el fusible y si ahi corriente en la fuente podria ser que se averio el switch 256
I think so, yes.
Very well done but is this usually what goes bad on these chargers?
Probably not. As I explained, this charger took 240v.
My p114 has blinking red problem. Even w/out battery. It was accidentally pluged in to 220v. Its only 110. Now i fixed d peimary. Then it has problem of blinkin red.
well, if you fixed the power supply, the blinking red would indicate a problem in the low voltage section. Maybe the logic. I don't have any experience with that on this particular device.
Thanks. But let me know sir if its ok that the output voltage is 32volts? I can measure 32v at the gate and source pin of the mosfet. But it doesn't turn on. The output voltage at the drain pin is about 0.9?
@@alejandrosimpaojr8525 Sorry, I have no idea. I never took measurements :(
But I will tell you that if the red light is blinking, that means the logic section of the unit has to be working well enough to detect a problem and report it by blinking. So I don't really think you have an issue with the first stage / power supply part of it.
Thank you sir. I am just worried if i isolate the automatic charging section of it and make an separate circuit would it burn the battery because of over voltage?
@@alejandrosimpaojr8525 Yes, possibly. I would very carefully examine that section for any burned components or broken solder joints.
Also, I assume you have put a battery in it, and it does not charge?
Gracias