Ryobi P117 Intelliport Charger Repair
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- In this video we repair a Ryobi P117 Charger. We show a few minutes of troubleshooting while energized so hopefully you can find your issue without powering up using my troubleshooting as a reference. If you do power up the charger be very careful with mains voltage. Know the Risk. 325VDC Bus around the large Caps and mains voltage coming are both very dangerous. If not qualified, do not attempt. Half of this video is troubleshooting and half is repair. The faulty component is found around 7:30 in video. Hope it helps and thanks for watching!
Link to good starter SMD resistor Kit if needed:
*Does not come with R500, I had to use (2) 1 ohms as shown.
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This fixed my Ryobi charger after so many online forums and videos led down the wrong path. I tested right along with you and found that my resistor was measuring 2.7 mega ohms. Saved me $40 bucks and huge a headache! Thank you very much for posting this video. You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar.
So glad it helped! Thanks for your comments!
That story was still better than Twilight.
I'm Brazilian, I went to the United States in 2019, and I bought a ryobi kit, and this charger came, very good tools, but the charger gave problems, thanks to your video I managed to fix it, because ordering another via the post office would be more than 100 dollars, a lot thank you for the tips.
Awesome job! Thanks so much for sharing this with us! Greetings from Augusta, GA USA (Where the Master's Golf tournament is going on right now!)
My P117 charger died with no lights as the major symptom. This video was one of the top search results. Sure enough my half-ohm resistor was bad. I didn't have any half-ohm resistors and shipping on them would take months so I used two 1-ohms just like the video. My charger is now working! Thank you Thrifty Tool Shed!
Excellent job, thanks for sharing!
SMD resister was open. Couldn’t find local source so ordered 100 0.5 ohm resisters off EBay for $1.28 delivered. Took 2 months to get them, then 5 minutes to get solder station out and fixing. Thanks for your video...
That's awesome!
Thank you for this video. I have the same issue and when I checked that resistor, it was open.
Thanks for the info. I feel better about poking around with a voltmeter now on mine. Same symptoms, it just looks dead. No damage no heat marks no.
Thanks for the video and the thought process and logic of trouble shooting.
Thank you for helping me with that problem. You're the best
Thank you very much for this video and your expert diagnosis. My charger had the same issue and I was able to repair it thanks to you. Liked and Subscribed.
Excellent work, thanks for your comment!
Excellent video, love the troubleshooting, great mind at work. My p117 lasted years, just died a month ago, no lights at all. I don’t have the .5 ohm resistor on my board! Others around it, that I see in this video are there but where .5 ohm should be there is nothing at all! I am getting the correct high voltage on the upper section, but don’t have the 5v in the chip pins like in this video. Nothing looks burned or bulging. I am about to go get a new one. If anybody has any ideas, I will try them
That is good to know yours is different. I would not know for sure but see if 5V regulator is faulty? Thanks for sharing and thanks for your comment.
Like to share my experience with my P117.
The 'high voltage' on the primary circuit side isn't working. You should hear a bussing sound (the high voltage oscillator) feeding the primary winding.
This circuit powers the primary winding of the yellow transformer in the middle.
The primary winding has four pins. The resistance within these types of transformers, usually have a low resistance. Two pins have a very low resistance (ohms). The other two on the primary side measure a very high resistance of megaohms. At the time I wasn’t sure why. I would have expected a low reading of around 20 ohms.
The secondary winding also had four pins and all four measured a low resistance.
I decide to unsolder the transformer because what do I have to lose, it doesn’t work anyhow.
I found the wire coming from the winding was broken off at the soldering pin of the transformer. Soldered the broken wire back to the pin.
It’s fixed.
Great information. Excellent work. Thanks for sharing!
Same exact issue. I wonder if it’s a design flaw. Going to put a higher wattage .5 ohm in there.
I received seven broken ones and was able to repair 5 of them - Two were severely water damaged and not repairable. My tips: Check ALL of the through hole diodes with the diode test mode on your multimeter. One had a bad 1N5408 diode at D3. Some models have a SMD resistor at position R71 labeled "R500" which is a .5 ohm resistor and was open on three of the units. I had 1 ohm quarter watt resistors and paralleled two of them to replace them. There is enough room to tack them on the SMD pads. That will restore the 5V and the power light should come on when you plug it in. Another had R8 open which is marked "100" and is a 10 ohm SMD resistor which I replaced with a tacked on 1/4 watt 10 ohm resistor. I had to replace the TOP256ENs on some of the ones with the open resistors. The other secondary produces approx. 36VDC at the common pin on the TO-220 dual diode marked "D20". So if the power light is on and you measure approx. 36V at the common of D20, you should be able to test the charger. Be sure the unit is unplugged and that capacitors E1 and E2 are drained or discharge them before you start working on the board. - There is approx. 350V across both of the capacitors in series and they will bite you.
Maybe it's the pumpulator?
75% of your comment is summarizing the video. So I guess you did not watch it to feel like you had to post most of this? Thanks for the additional information though I'm case someone has issues with R8.
@@ThriftyToolShed Hi yeah you got me. I did not watch most of the video as I have all of my units repaired. I cut and pasted this comment. I added it to all P117 repair videos I watched as none so far have been as extensive or helpful as yours. When I was seeking youtube repair videos when I needed to repair them they just did not have a lot of information. Just trying to share my experience and how I repaired them for others. I'll definitely recommend yours.
@@reasonablebeing5392 Thanks for your added information. Verifying that this does occur often and for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed @reasonabledbeing Any Ideas on where I can get this resistor? R71 R500?
I had to go through one of these live as well. I realized I hadn’t turned on my power strip when I had no power anywhere on the board. Leaned over to turn it on and stuck my other hand across the mains input on the board 🤦♂️ Someday I’ll learn to quit when I’m tired. Luckily 110v ac isn’t that bad in most situations.
I have got it bad a few times. I have a mustang that is more race car than street car, and it developed a miss at idle while driving home when it started to rain. Looking around the engine bay for obvious issues (car running) I found a plug wire had melted against the header. And by found, I mean it shocked the crap out of me. Car idles at 1200rpm and has an MSD 6al2 ignition and 60,000v coil. Right arm grounded to the engine, left got the plug wire. I had to check to see if my heart was still beating, as I had never felt anything like that and thought I was dying. I couldn’t see straight for a good ten minutes. Not something I want to try a second time.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing! Yes I understand the pain somewhat of the ignition system, its very painful, hurt through my elbow to the top of my head. I never felt one as you mentioned with the 60KV MSD, but the newer model cars ignition system is no fun getting a hold of ya!
I appreciate this man, that single resistor was the only problem with mine
Thank you. I had the same problem. Fixed it with a non smt resistor. Just drilled 2 holes in the board, mounted the resistor, and bridged to the old smt part. I enjoyed listening to you troubleshoot the board. You have a great depth of knowledge troubleshooting with out schematics!
Awesome job. Thanks so much for your kind comment.
In my charger the transistor near the .5 ohm resistor was burned , a 2N3904, replaced both ( transistor and resistor) and now works fine
Ryobi charger has red and green blinking lights. After trying several Ryobi batteries with the same result I ordered a new Ryobi charger. If this does not fix the problem, my Ryobi trimmer, , inflater and impact driver along with the batteries and chargers will go into the rubbish. I thought I could save a few dollars and bought these Ryobi tools instead of staying with Dewalt or Bosh. Never again, you obviously get what you pay for.
REALLY admire you electronics guys !! NO way in Hades could I hold my hand steady enough, I have one just the RED light come on that's it
Great tutorial. I'm equally impressed by the mod you did to your PCB holder. Great thinking mate. I think I'll do the same.
Wow it's like brain surgery working with such small parts. Amazing work
Great video. My P117 has the same symptom. Guess I'll open it up and see what I see. Thank you.
You are one SMART dude!! My neighbor asked me to look at his NO LIGHTS P117 after he plugged it in after winter storage. It made an audible electrical snap sound and then quit working. Your advice led me right to the problem. I replaced the the SMD resistor you pointed out and the charger is back in action. Never would I have found that without your help. Thank you.
Awesome! Thanks for your kind comment!
Thank you so much for this very informative video. Been through 3 of these chargers and my 4th just went out. Gonna try to repair them all today and hopefully atleast one has this same issue.
I just want to say thank you very much I think it is the same as mine has greetings from León Guanajuato Mexico
Awesome! Glad it helped, thanks for your comment! Greetings from Augusta, Georgia USA. The Masters golf tournament will be here next week! Not that I am invited, LOL!
On mine there are lights but does not charge any battery.
I think your video can fix my charger . I bought it from America shipped it to my country but unfortunately when i plug it no light at all . I never dealt with boards so it will be my first try do u think it's a resistor or it might be something else ? Sorry my English not so good
That's the only one I have worked on. Shared what I found with it. Hoping it might help someone else. Other than that, I can't say. Best of luck to you with yours.
@@ThriftyToolShed appreciate ur fast response . Thanks for sharing this video
My charger will charge for a several seconds then stop. After market replacements on ebay are about $20. I won't be doing this kind of repair. I wish I could.
I decided to look into this further as I figured there must be lots of sawdust and insect debris inside which could be causing overheating. After breaking the security tabs off the screws and getting it open I blew it out with compressed air and sprayed some contact cleaner all over and blowing it out again. It just charged my old style battery completely and is now charging a lithium battery. Seems like it's fixed.
Thank youuuu !!! this really worked !!! I was so resigned to buy a new one since that was not mine it was even worse but thanks to you I saved a lot of money, another subscriber right here !! :)
Glad it helped! Thanks for your comment.
Our new puppy chewed thru the electric cord on my P117 charger. I meant to repair at the time but didn't. Now, can't locate the cord end that plugs in the outlet. Trying to find out which wire goes to gold contact in replacement plug and which one goes to the silver connection. One wire has ridges running the length of the cord. Silver or gold contact? Thanks
The wire with ridges or ribbed is usually the neutral and the smooth the Hot. It's been way too long to remember about the one in this video, but it is a standard for it typically. That means the wire that is smooth should be going to the fuse of course if you want to double check. So ribbed wire to silver and smooth wire to gold.
Hi my friend I putting the 2 1R0 and charging power up but battery only reading 2 bars can you help me fix that please thank you
Sorry, I have not seen that issue myself to say.
You helped me thanks .
I thought it was 50 ohms the R500 so I replaced it with 50 but it doesn't work so I analysed my other Ryobi board and compared it I have found out that they just put a 0 ohm resistor instead so I replaced it with a 0 ohm from my donor board and it work's perfectly.
It was .5 ohm as mentioned in video.
Glad yours worked, sometimes low values are current sense resistors, but I am not sure on this one.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for your video it's very informative. Keep on making videos.
@@ThriftyToolShed Both Thrifty & Jetsky you 2 are my heroes, I simply jump the 0.5 ohm resistor and my Ryobi charger is alive again, big thank you 👍
That R500 was reading 1.7M ohm in my case !
mine is missing that rezistor, i checkd all other rezistors, diodes, no bulging on capacitors, what can it be?
Impossible to say from here. It seems yours is a different version if the resistor is not in the same location as this one shown in the video.
Friend, the relay is not activating and does not allow the voltage to pass, what could be the problem?
Hard to say from that. Did you also have a bad resistor as in this repair?
Hola soy de Monterrey te felicito es muy buena enseñanza una pregunta dónde compraste las refacciones.
Hi,
Thanks for your kind comment. I usually get parts from Amazon. I have links in the video description if needed. I recommend the SMD resistor kit, even though it does not have the .5ohm, it does have many 1 ohm as well as many others. I also share links to many tools and items I find helpful and that many viewers ask about. Thanks and Merry Christmas!
I have two of these both not working. Both failed almost exactly the same way. I was working in my attic and left it there during the week as I had all my tools there and the next weekend it didn't work. Ryobi replaced it once and it did it again.
I've been through both of them. One has a circuit board with the r71 with the r500 resistors you referenced in your P117 repair video. I went through one of them and the high voltage header has 300+v but that is where the voltage stops. There's no voltage on the 2nd header. I've tried to check the 2nd header areas to see if I can find where there's voltage on the high side and none on the 2nd side. I can't find anything nor any evidence of burn or discoloring.
I'd love some ideas.
I have the same charger i was working on someones place and i went to plug it in and i saw a spark now it wont turn on. I opened and the fuse looks blown do u know how to change that
If I remember correctly you have to solder those in. About 5% of the time you can be lucky and the fuse replacement may possibly fix it. Usually it's something else in the power supply section that has failed blowing the fuse. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed yes it needs to be solder well im going to change the fuse and see what it does.
This worked well for my dead charger. Thanks. Ryobi refused to warrant.because the seller hadn't paid for license. Don't see why they punish customer. Bought new from Amazon. Broke after only a few changes. Thanks.
Thanks M8, add me to the 0.5 ohm failed pile. I had a 1 ohm wired resistor and placed it from the diode to capacitor leads, ugly style but it worked.
Resistor on 15v supply opens due to crowbar circuit, could post a voltage reading on the microprocessor pins.
I have a unit with 35, 15 and 5v all ok. I suspect the micro.
I need to identify blown parts in my Ryobi 8 port charger. Can any body help? Mosfet driver section blown.
Same problem here, ordered resistors just now to fix it, but yes, reading like 900,000 ohms or something.
The bummer is that I can't do that repair, so that means off to Home Depot again to give them another $40.....
Thanks, i can charge now 👍👍👍
Thank you much, mine had the same problem. I just jumpered the resistor.......
What is the yellow light for?
On this model is usually means the temperature is out of range. Could be too hot or too cold I believe. Could even be a bad connection on one of the smaller terminals possibly causing an issue.
R71 doent exit on my board my board version "intelliport-charger" "ryobi p117"
my pcb
HW 1723
TTI P/N: 260501073
Dec 7,2021
I inserted on 220VAC, using TRAC Based (travel 220 to 110 voltage converter) adapter. Now it is not working. Fuse is ok. there is no physical damage too. what could be possible gone wrong.
Sorry to hear it's a different design. I would check resistors if some around the same area and then the switcher, the high frequency switching chip if its at all similar to this charger board. Best of luck to ya!
Hallo. I have problem with my charger, when charging is complet, the green led briefly stops flashing and then continues to flash again along with the red led. In addition, today I noticed that during charging, both red and green leds are much paler than before. What is it, some advice?
By the way, the video is very informative and useful- all the best.
It does this with multiple packs correct? Tested more than one?
I have not seen that exact issue with mine, but I would check the capacitors on the board. Of course make sure power removed and caps are discharged before attempting. if you see any bulging, swollen or vented caps its a tell tell. That is not always what you find, but alot of the times. Of course some are
Can I send you my Hilti c 7/36 ACS please
Thank you so much!!! Ryobi 3 year warranty sucks,
Can i ask sir..if this is a 110v or 220v
120V charger for US market!
Battery cookers.
Those kill batteries.
Wow. Good to know. Thanks for the information.
I’m so stoked! I couldn’t find a .5 ohm resistor in time but found an adjustable resistor pot and soldered it on. Works good now! Thanks for the helpful video! It wasn’t mine but I got a pair of muck boots out of the deal.
Thanks! Was cleaning up the shop at my office (I dont ever really use power tools/things in there - I do more of the hands on electronics work) and saw this charger wasn't doing anything. Coworkers said it worked for like a week and has been non functional for a long long time. Figured I'd take it apart to see if it was something easy like a fuse. Found this video, R71 was in the mega ohms so found a through hole .47 ohm 1 watt resistor and soldered it in. Seems to be working!
Awesome. Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant use of common sense repair techniques!!
hey mate , well done , i would really appreciate it if you ever come across a Ridgid R86092 charger if you could post some info on it please , i have a charger that i suspect is faulty even though it is brand new , i modded it to work on our 220 to 240 v power here in south africa by replacing the varistor and large cap on the high voltage side , seems when i put a battery on it to charge , the battery check phase is only around a second then it starts to charge , or it indicates its charging but doesnt , green light flashes 15 to 20 times then the red light flashes , green flashes 10 to 30 times then the red light flashes , battery indicator on the battery blinks but there is no charging happening , no heat being developed at all by the charger so it doesnt seem to be doing anything at all , would appreciate it if you come across this type of charger if you could post something please mate
many thanks
Rich moss
Will do!
Thank you! This resistor was bad for me too. I replaced it with higher wattage .5 ohm resistor. It works now and I'm hoping by going to a larger wattage it will handle whatever it was that blew the resistor to begin with. I have another P117 charger but its a previous version and it doesn't have the same layout so It's still broken. But now I have a working charger. THANK YOU!!
Excellent job, that was my thoughts as well on the higher wattage! Thanks for sharing!
I've bought two, neither lasted more than 3-4 months. It looks like I'm gonna have to take a mini electronics course just to be able to trouble shoot the two I have, on that note I have one of the black ones included in the driver kit and seems that one is still good as well as another older green one(looks bigger and bulkier than these) that also works. If you go to the homedepot reviews this happens a lot, it is a manufacturing defect and one that hasn't been fixed it looks like. Have all the tools to troubleshoot I may just see if both of mines have this same problem.
I had definitely seen that these had issues. I did not know how common this exact issue is or if most that failed are like this, but either way I posted it to see if it helps others with similar issues. I just hate to see things thrown out so prematurely when they should still have years of life left in them. Hate you have had issues with two of these. Best of luck with yours!
Same resistor burnt out on mine, thanks man!
Muchas gracias por el video me sirvió mucho 👌👌
Saved a lot of troubleshooting time, so thanks. Same resistor on mine. I did have a drawer of 1 ohm 1/4w axial resistors, and easier to solder a couple of those onto the two pads that the bad resistor goes to, and just leave it there on the board, plus they are more durable. Sounds like Ryobi has an engineering problem with this charger for so many to have the same resistor going out. Probably designed to burn out about the time the warranty is up. Not holding my breath that they will ever fix it... not if they can keep selling replacement chargers.
Glad it helped, yes as you may see on my channel I have to use THD alot in repairs for SMD failed components! Thanks for your comment!
I followed your advice and sure enough problem is now fixed thank you for you video and saving it from landfill 👍🏼
Awesome work. Thanks for your comment and sharing!
I have a temp delay light on. Orange color and the unit is in A/C. Has not been used in 5 months. Any suggestions?
I have not had that exact issue with mine. Is it a way to make sure it's not the battery? Have another pack to try or another charger by chance? I have seen the thermistor in the packs cause the temp delay, but no issue with mine with the charger yet
Nailed it... same problem on my charger, occurred only about two months after I got it. No idea if it was a power surge, static damage or what. I had some 1 ohm, 1 watt leaded resistors from other projects and put two of those in parallel - lots of room on that side of the board. I wonder if they under-spec'ed the power dissipation on this particular part.
It may very well be. It does seem to be alot of the same failures on these. I did not know that when I shared this video. Lots of comments about same issue for sure with this model.
Can u send a link where I can buy the set u use to fix the charger
Are you looking for a SMD resistor set?
@@ThriftyToolShed Yess
Well this is similar to what I have as a good starter kit for 603, 805 and 1205. The only thing is that it doesn't have .5ohm as a value it starts with 1 ohm like I had to use in the video.
Most kits don't come with .5 ohm that I know of.
amzn.to/3QhbU79
Really nice work and video. Great warnings and procedures.
That is absolutely amazing
By any chance do you have an extra e199817 transformer ?
I don't, sorry!
Thank you for sharing this how to content. I have a question. One of my charges was left outside where I imagine a small amount of moisture got into it. I have not plugged it in and have let it sit in front of fan…curious if I do disassemble it is there a proper way to clean it? Like electrical cleaner spray before attempting to use it? Thanks again!
I would absolutely clean it if you think it got moisture inside. A good plastic safe electrical parts cleaner or at least use 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean the board very well.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the feedback. Didn’t see any corrosion upon opening it up however I hit it with some electrical contact cleaner and buttoned it up. So far so good….thanks again
How critical do you think the R71 value is? I have 0Ω resistors and the lowest I otherwise have is 2.2Ω.
I honestly can't say for sure. I assumed it was a feedback resistor so I tried to keep it as designed for that assumption alone?
@@ThriftyToolShed I found a .62 Ω 1/3W 0805 one in the back of my tool drawer and that seems to be working, at least for the first 15 minutes. I'm going to order a cut tape of .5Ω 1/2W 1206 resistors from DigiKey for the next time. Thanks!!!
@@nsayer Awesome!
I used 1 ohm and it worked fine, will see long term.
I just repaired my charger, same open resistance. Thanks a lot!!
Good to know it's common. Glad it helped. Thanks for your comment!
I dont have a r71
I have seen at least 2 version of this charger now. Some do not have it. The board layout seems to have changed. It does look the same or at least similar on the outside.
I will send u a picture in a bit
You are so good. Excellent work.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Thanks
I know this information has nothing to do with this video directly but, I figure a way to charge the P102 using a bench power supply without opening the case. Well actually, I found two ways of charging with the Ryobi P102 using a power supply.
Good video.
EXCELLENT VIDEO.
What would be the first thing to go if one of these things gets wet
It depends if powered on while wet. If powered on it could really be any power device that could have had low resistance (like a short) and failed like transistors etc. If not powered on when it got wet then corrosion is the biggest threat and usually the smallest chips like the microcontrollers show signs first with corrosion in-between the tiny pads or leads. When boards get wet the only thing we can do is remove power quickly and clean board well with plastic safe contact cleaner or at least Alcohol (high % IPA) sometimes we can get lucky, but left unclean the water damage will slowly attack the components until it's beyond repair.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the info yeah it was on when I got wet it's cooked LOL looks like I need to go buy me a new tool. instead of buying just a charger I can get a little vacuum or something that comes with a battery and charger for the price of pretty much the charger I just smoked
Exactly right!
Thanks for your video. Another video showed the resistor at R71 opened also. Apparently an issue with that board version. I am repairing one right now, but the board version is different as I have no R71. In my case, the AC power switch connected to the first heat sink failed. That also seems to be an issue with these units.
I learned something doing this project. I was troubleshooting components with an XY octopus curve tracer. On my board, I was checking Zener diode at ZD5. The curve tracer showed it as a diode versus a Zener diode, no second knee. Come to find out the Zener had a higher breakdown voltage than what the octopus could show, and it was actually a good senior. When I removed the diode to check it out of circuit, I was holding it down, and it zipped away into nowhere's land. Because it got away, I don't know what value Zenor it was. Hoping someone can tell me, but it's a longshot. Anyway, loved your video.