exactly i need some finer diamond abrasives as high carbide volume (especialy vandium carbide) steels need full diamond sharpenings to prevent carbide tearout
I know a polished edge looks better but if you have a polished edge with scratches you can see pretty easily it will have better teeth and be able to cut better
I’m knew over all in sharpening knives. I just bought this sharpener. So forgive me for some of my elementary questions. 1)-Let’s say I’m using the 220 grit and develop a burr (new concept for me) how do I know when to change to the next grit size. 2)-How many passes I need to do to get a burr 3)-on example (1)-does the burr have to be gone on the edge in order to go to the next grit size?
I also found sweeping strokes gave me that mirror polished edge. Never sharpened a knife in my life but feel like a professional using this platform. I found tanto blades don't need to be re-clamped as the stone is always at the angle you set no matter which direction your moving it due to the pendulum design. WS Pro is a great tool.
“It’s spa day with my knife.” That’s how I am with stuff myself. I’m not there for a quickie or to do things half way. I want to take my time and get the best results I can.
Ahh we’re doping our blades now!! Lol I have used the backpack model more than my bench model and every knife comes sharp but not my sharp. I have lighting and a magnifying set. Swirl I’ve been doing and thought if I told anyone they would say I was nuts. But I like the edge to cut and thru paper very little sound. I use my knives too
OK, I think my question was answered in the video. Thanks for making these. Also partial serrations for the win. I just picked up a Para 3 PS, and have a Manix 2 PS on order. Question on the tanto. Do you go through the whole progression on one bevel, then start on the second, or do you keep reclamping the knife as you progress? Also, thanks for doing these with Kyle. He's amazing.
Great video, thanks! My Pro PA is on its way and arriving on a day off. I've worn out 7 or 8 Lanskys over the last almost 40 years (and got pretty good with them), so this is going to be incredible. You addressed a couple questions I already had, about single bevels and tantos, and it was pretty much what I did before, but that means the system works. Thanks again
One thing I've wondered about that the Pro I think solves is the angle and what impact where the clamp is on the blade has. Meaning that if you clamp the blade differently from one sharpening to another, that maybe the angle the hone is to the blade may not be what I think it is. But now that the pro has added the gizmo to actually measure the angle the rod is at, it seems that just where the blade sits in the clamp wouldn't really matter so much. Clamp it, calibrate the angle gizmo to 0 & then adjust to the desired angle. Now it should always sharpen to the same angle. I think so, any way
Any tips for maintaining a consistent bevel across the blade? I've noticed there's always a 1-1.5 degree difference from the heel to the tip (using the angle finder) and I keep getting tips that don't match the rest of the edge. I'm using the sweep method that Steve outlined in a previous video. Thanks!
Lets get you in touch with our customer service team. It could be that particular knife or something we can adjust in your setup. In any case we can help. Send an email to info@worksharptools.com
I also have this with my Elite and now my Pro. I am making sure the knife is straight but I’m taking more metal off of the curve of the blade. This is worth a video.
Any suggestions on how to sharpen full flat ground knives with tapered spines? Such as the spyderco para 3, there’s no true flat section to clamp down on so how can I get around that
I have the ws pa with all in one that came out last xmas. Like 139. Is this a big enuff upgrade to be worth it? I wiah mine took the bigger stones and had an angle finder.
How tight are you clamping the blade? I keep seeing the blade flexing at the clamp. Perhaps that means I'm pressing too hard?? But I see that the system comes with a support for the clamp itself for really large blades? But the clamp doesn't flex. Only the blade in the clamp. Hmmm.
So I haveva PA Pro. Only had time to try it once, on my Boker Kalashnikov. Blade was 100% spine to back of clamp. Angle carefully set to 20 degrees. And yet as I was shapening, I never felt a burr develop, and the vevel seemed to get taller as if the knife was rolling a little in the clamp. Was I maybe pushing too hard?
We have an amazing customer service team that can help with that! Whether its an issue with the clamp or something you might be doing by mistake, we will get it figured out and corrected. Send them an email to info@worksharptools.com
I really love my worksharp Professional Precision Adjust, i just wish that there would be finer stones, like 1500, 3000, 5000, and so forth.
exactly i need some finer diamond abrasives as high carbide volume (especialy vandium carbide) steels need full diamond sharpenings to prevent carbide tearout
I know a polished edge looks better but if you have a polished edge with scratches you can see pretty easily it will have better teeth and be able to cut better
@@asherrose6594 yeah but 800 is too low. And ceramics just don’t cut it (also literally aren’t able to cut the carbides)
I understand. But I have been able to get a nice polished edge, but I would like a 1,200 grit stone
I’m knew over all in sharpening knives. I just bought this sharpener. So forgive me for some of my elementary questions. 1)-Let’s say I’m using the 220 grit and develop a burr (new concept for me) how do I know when to change to the next grit size. 2)-How many passes I need to do to get a burr 3)-on example (1)-does the burr have to be gone on the edge in order to go to the next grit size?
I also found sweeping strokes gave me that mirror polished edge. Never sharpened a knife in my life but feel like a professional using this platform. I found tanto blades don't need to be re-clamped as the stone is always at the angle you set no matter which direction your moving it due to the pendulum design. WS Pro is a great tool.
“It’s spa day with my knife.”
That’s how I am with stuff myself. I’m not there for a quickie or to do things half way. I want to take my time and get the best results I can.
Ahh we’re doping our blades now!! Lol I have used the backpack model more than my bench model and every knife comes sharp but not my sharp. I have lighting and a magnifying set. Swirl I’ve been doing and thought if I told anyone they would say I was nuts. But I like the edge to cut and thru paper very little sound. I use my knives too
OK, I think my question was answered in the video. Thanks for making these. Also partial serrations for the win. I just picked up a Para 3 PS, and have a Manix 2 PS on order.
Question on the tanto. Do you go through the whole progression on one bevel, then start on the second, or do you keep reclamping the knife as you progress? Also, thanks for doing these with Kyle. He's amazing.
Great video, thanks! My Pro PA is on its way and arriving on a day off. I've worn out 7 or 8 Lanskys over the last almost 40 years (and got pretty good with them), so this is going to be incredible. You addressed a couple questions I already had, about single bevels and tantos, and it was pretty much what I did before, but that means the system works. Thanks again
Great video
One thing I've wondered about that the Pro I think solves is the angle and what impact where the clamp is on the blade has. Meaning that if you clamp the blade differently from one sharpening to another, that maybe the angle the hone is to the blade may not be what I think it is. But now that the pro has added the gizmo to actually measure the angle the rod is at, it seems that just where the blade sits in the clamp wouldn't really matter so much. Clamp it, calibrate the angle gizmo to 0 & then adjust to the desired angle. Now it should always sharpen to the same angle.
I think so, any way
Any tips for maintaining a consistent bevel across the blade? I've noticed there's always a 1-1.5 degree difference from the heel to the tip (using the angle finder) and I keep getting tips that don't match the rest of the edge. I'm using the sweep method that Steve outlined in a previous video. Thanks!
Lets get you in touch with our customer service team. It could be that particular knife or something we can adjust in your setup. In any case we can help. Send an email to info@worksharptools.com
I also have this with my Elite and now my Pro. I am making sure the knife is straight but I’m taking more metal off of the curve of the blade. This is worth a video.
@WorkSharpOutdoor will there be finer stones available? Thanks.
Any suggestions on how to sharpen full flat ground knives with tapered spines? Such as the spyderco para 3, there’s no true flat section to clamp down on so how can I get around that
The Swirl, interesting...
I have the ws pa with all in one that came out last xmas. Like 139. Is this a big enuff upgrade to be worth it? I wiah mine took the bigger stones and had an angle finder.
What oil are you recommending?
How tight are you clamping the blade? I keep seeing the blade flexing at the clamp. Perhaps that means I'm pressing too hard?? But I see that the system comes with a support for the clamp itself for really large blades? But the clamp doesn't flex. Only the blade in the clamp. Hmmm.
Can you help me where to find plates for my pro p.a im from australia
So I haveva PA Pro. Only had time to try it once, on my Boker Kalashnikov. Blade was 100% spine to back of clamp. Angle carefully set to 20 degrees. And yet as I was shapening, I never felt a burr develop, and the vevel seemed to get taller as if the knife was rolling a little in the clamp. Was I maybe pushing too hard?
We have an amazing customer service team that can help with that! Whether its an issue with the clamp or something you might be doing by mistake, we will get it figured out and corrected. Send them an email to info@worksharptools.com
My boker gets crazy sharp on the pro
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