On my 5.7l. 2004 ram 1500. The single bolt on the bottom corroded badly and caused unstable voltage within the pcm. The top 2 bolts goes into a noncunductive panel. It has burned the transmission control module out and then 3,4, and 5th gear out in less than the 5 miles to get back to the trail head. Completely fubar-ing the transmission and transfer case. I had to run low range to get it to move and ifs constant snatching into gear broke the sun gear and chain. Everything now has extra grounds. When the trans and case get replaced I have 5 ground straps to install. Eng to firewall, eng to trans, trans to t case, trans to crossmember, t case to crossmember, crossmember to frame. Not to mention 3 ground straps to the battery from the pcm, and a spare to the body and frame.
Food for thought during my stint as a lift truck tech ( hate that word ) prefer mechanic for Toyota had a few incidents where codes were set by alternator issues. Weired that code needs high rpms before setting. Possible voltage spikes from alt. Maybe possible voltage test.
Not sure if you ever got it figured out, but... Are the replacements mopar? second maybe oil pressure sending unit? I believe the crank, cam and presuure unit are all on the same 5v loop, one can take all three down.
Hey Sir. I love the new ground straps, I am going to need to get some for the TRX4. Interesting that you had a cam sensor code at first. Your scan tool should have a cam/crank relearn task. Mopar suggests that any time a component involving the cam or crank gets changed that a relearn should be run. I got a few others thought, but don't want to throw a lot of stuff out at once.
That is a great suggestion cam/crankshaft relearn must be performed whenever major engine work is performed. I had to do this myself when I replaced my camshaft and lifters.
@@MOAllDa I had both heads off two years ago to replace some valves. I never did a relearn, and it ran great for the last two years. I'll still try it though.
@@ScottRods yeah I think it’s worth a try. Tolerances were affected when you did the head/valve/timing chain work. If I remember correctly you put a new timing chain which can in theory effect the correlation of both the cam and crank. Also cam/ crank relearn must be performed when replacing the crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Just a thought
No solution to propose, but a suggestion nonetheless: use AlfaOBD to run your diagnostics. It's a $50 US Android app + a $90 US Bluetooth dongle that plugs into the OBD-2 port. AlfaOBD is Mopar-specific diagnostic software and it's bidirectional. You can run all of the individual component tests on the engine controller as well as the other control modules, which is a great help in diagnosing problems like this. If you don't have an Android phone but you have a Windows laptop, you can use that instead. If you don't have a subscription to AllDataDIY for diagnostic information on the P codes you're getting, that would also be a great help, although here in the US our public libraries offer Chilton or Motor online diagnostics; I imagine it might also be the case up there in the Great White North. Cheers from Metro Detroit where your truck was built. (I have a 2011 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman, looks like it's pretty much the same as yours.)
I do have a pretty good bi-direction scantool, but I'm still learning how to use it properly. I can make it switch injectors on and off while running etc, but until I know how to read graphs and data, I'm fishing in the dark, or some analogy that makes sense, lol.
My sympathy. Electrical gremlins are terrible. It seems like the things you replaced have all been possible causes, but there's still something lurking in the background. One of the things I've learned over the years, if something is driving you crazy and nothing seems to be working, it is often some fundamental, simple thing. I know you've just replaced your earth straps, but that's the kind of thing it usually turns out to be. Or something like that, low voltage, a bad sensor that got replaced with another bad sensor. Who knows. A good meter will allow you to check a lot of that, and much more. Good luck, at this point you need and deserve it.
It still bothers me that you still buy the cheap Chinese replacement parts. Go to the bone yard and get some used Mopar parts like you did with the BMW. IMO used OEM stuff is far better than stuff from the land of almost fits.
Possibly easier said than done. These DS/DT trucks are still valuable enough at 13 years old that they're not turning up in the self-service junkyards here, which means the cost of the used parts is higher since you're paying someone to take them off for you.
That certainly is a mystery ... keep at it Dave, we are cheering for you
On the 5.7l. Run a extra strap between the pcm and a good ground.if you dont it will melt the system down when it looses ground. Multiple grounds.
On my 5.7l. 2004 ram 1500. The single bolt on the bottom corroded badly and caused unstable voltage within the pcm. The top 2 bolts goes into a noncunductive panel. It has burned the transmission control module out and then 3,4, and 5th gear out in less than the 5 miles to get back to the trail head. Completely fubar-ing the transmission and transfer case. I had to run low range to get it to move and ifs constant snatching into gear broke the sun gear and chain. Everything now has extra grounds. When the trans and case get replaced I have 5 ground straps to install. Eng to firewall, eng to trans, trans to t case, trans to crossmember, t case to crossmember, crossmember to frame. Not to mention 3 ground straps to the battery from the pcm, and a spare to the body and frame.
@@mrheart4242would this cause a single click then no start also all gears are selected when I try to crank it. 2004 5.7l SLT 4x4 is what I have.
Going through similar issues with my 2011. Thanks for videos, I’ll learn to be an electrical guru with you as it will be my next step also.
What errors are you getting?
@@ScottRods sounded to be missing. Changed the upstream oxygen sensors, spark plugs, and coil packs. Running fine now.
You onto it Scottrods....looks like some kind of grounding issue that's confusing your ecu. Reground everything?!
The saga continues.
Food for thought during my stint as a lift truck tech ( hate that word ) prefer mechanic for Toyota had a few incidents where codes were set by alternator issues. Weired that code needs high rpms before setting. Possible voltage spikes from alt. Maybe possible voltage test.
I'm going to need a co-pilot for the next stage of testing.
Damn man I totally feel your pain.
Not sure if you ever got it figured out, but... Are the replacements mopar? second maybe oil pressure sending unit? I believe the crank, cam and presuure unit are all on the same 5v loop, one can take all three down.
Hey Sir. I love the new ground straps, I am going to need to get some for the TRX4. Interesting that you had a cam sensor code at first. Your scan tool should have a cam/crank relearn task. Mopar suggests that any time a component involving the cam or crank gets changed that a relearn should be run. I got a few others thought, but don't want to throw a lot of stuff out at once.
Ohhh, that's a good one. I'll give it a try in the morning.
That is a great suggestion cam/crankshaft relearn must be performed whenever major engine work is performed. I had to do this myself when I replaced my camshaft and lifters.
@@MOAllDa I had both heads off two years ago to replace some valves. I never did a relearn, and it ran great for the last two years. I'll still try it though.
@@ScottRods yeah I think it’s worth a try. Tolerances were affected when you did the head/valve/timing chain work. If I remember correctly you put a new timing chain which can in theory effect the correlation of both the cam and crank. Also cam/ crank relearn must be performed when replacing the crank position sensor or cam position sensor. Just a thought
It can't be a TPS issue, sensor, or bad throttle body(needs cleaning)? Camshaft or crankshaft sensor? At which cylinder was that cracked seal?
Not getting any codes for the TPS. Replaced the cam and crank sensors, a few times. Gasket crack was not near cylinder 5.
No solution to propose, but a suggestion nonetheless: use AlfaOBD to run your diagnostics. It's a $50 US Android app + a $90 US Bluetooth dongle that plugs into the OBD-2 port. AlfaOBD is Mopar-specific diagnostic software and it's bidirectional. You can run all of the individual component tests on the engine controller as well as the other control modules, which is a great help in diagnosing problems like this. If you don't have an Android phone but you have a Windows laptop, you can use that instead. If you don't have a subscription to AllDataDIY for diagnostic information on the P codes you're getting, that would also be a great help, although here in the US our public libraries offer Chilton or Motor online diagnostics; I imagine it might also be the case up there in the Great White North. Cheers from Metro Detroit where your truck was built. (I have a 2011 Ram 1500 Outdoorsman, looks like it's pretty much the same as yours.)
I do have a pretty good bi-direction scantool, but I'm still learning how to use it properly. I can make it switch injectors on and off while running etc, but until I know how to read graphs and data, I'm fishing in the dark, or some analogy that makes sense, lol.
Welp i know what im about to go check 😂
Did you try to disconnect the battery and clean the terminals?
Nope, but I'll try anything, lol.
My sympathy. Electrical gremlins are terrible. It seems like the things you replaced have all been possible causes, but there's still something lurking in the background. One of the things I've learned over the years, if something is driving you crazy and nothing seems to be working, it is often some fundamental, simple thing. I know you've just replaced your earth straps, but that's the kind of thing it usually turns out to be. Or something like that, low voltage, a bad sensor that got replaced with another bad sensor. Who knows. A good meter will allow you to check a lot of that, and much more. Good luck, at this point you need and deserve it.
There’s an actual procedure to tighten the intake down
Question: did you check your cats had proper flow. Had this issue on my hummer. bad cats
No I did not. All sorted now. My issue was a bad PCM all along.
Hi, i from belgium.. Where do you connect the earth braid from the cylinder head which goes down to the bottom of the engine?
can that ground strap make my gas pedal act up if it goes bad
Hi guys from Victoria Australia
G'day!. Sorry, was that too cliche? lol
Check with RUclips Wes at work
Exactly what I was thinking Watch Wes Work
makes me think injector/s or electrical
Fuel cap
It still bothers me that you still buy the cheap Chinese replacement parts. Go to the bone yard and get some used Mopar parts like you did with the BMW. IMO used OEM stuff is far better than stuff from the land of almost fits.
That's a fair point Gary. I should make a list and head to that Kenny U-Pull again. I'm sure they'll have a ram lying around.
Possibly easier said than done. These DS/DT trucks are still valuable enough at 13 years old that they're not turning up in the self-service junkyards here, which means the cost of the used parts is higher since you're paying someone to take them off for you.
@@ggariepy Yup, I just did a search. Nothing available.
Ground on computer
Thanks Len, worth a shot.
Get a wiring diagram and messure power and grounds start at battery and computer, ist easy when you know witch you need to messure
You can do it
With a multimeter
The ETC needs to be reprogrammed mine is going through same thing
Corrosion in the edu connector?
I'm taking a break from it for a few days. It's breaking my heart, lol.
Fair enough...your so close it seems. Don't give up man!
Did you ever figure out what was wrong with it?
Yes. Bad PCM.