Scratch Building 101 | The Materials: Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Some of the primary materials and theory I use to scratch build scale models.
Evergreen: evergreenscale...
Plastruct: plastruct.com/
Wills (Peco): peco-uk.com/pa...
Music: Family Montage.
thx for great vids! i love the tamiya green bottle solvent but my old lungs cant handle the stench, but i love the little brush in the handle! so i am filling the tamiya bottle with plastruct lol
Yes. The Tamiya bottle is also more stable if you know what I mean. We usually only spill that stuff once. Can you imagine spilling that solvent into a small detail parts tray . . . Lol. Only once my friend . . . only once. Cheers.
Thanks for sharing. Getting excited. I will need to make so changes because I'm building in N scale. Thanks again for sharing.
You are welcome. It`s all relative to whatever scale one chooses, coupled with the difficulty curve. I can`t build in "N" scale anymore. The old eyes are growing dim. Cheers.
Thanks for that, the adhesive part is my problem been experimenting with different types, so I'll try the plastructs and see what happens. Great video for people like me.
I like it and have grown used to it. A word of caution for you: Make sure you put the bottle of Plastruct Solvent in a "heavy" coffee mug, or non-tip-over container. You will only spill that stuff once. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama whoa, thanks for the tip ill be sure to do that.
You can buy 4'×8' sheets of styrene here in the US. Search it out on the internet because it's not available at the hobby shop. You can get it in the same thicknesses as what you get at the hobby shop. Awesome video. Stay well. -Wil 👍
You are right. Good cost saving tip. Especially for big warehouses builds, etc. I used to have big rolls of it. Now I have no space to store it. But then it is not hard to tuck behind the layout for sure. Cheers.
Cuzn Vinny at BNSF... and four numbers..I forget what they are off hand.. anyway.. he swears by plastic "For Sale" signs found in home improvement stores. He says..pound for pound you can't beat the price of those signs compared to plain sheet styrene at the hobby shop.
Sounds great! Back in my film career days I had large sheets and rolls of the stuff. Now I just work on a small scale in a small space. Therefore, small dimensional material is an advantage to me. Good tip for sure - Boomer.
I scratch built a Bowstring span bridge from artists matte board using my old trammel I used when I was a Draughtsman. Plan on building more from Evergreen. Enjoy watching your videos
Matte board is nice stuff to build models with. You sure do need a sharp blade though ;-)
I found a company in Melbourne Australia who sell s tool with which you can press tinfoil into corrugated iron sheets.
@@charlie1872 That sounds great!
Brunel Models is the store in Melbourne
I agree on the plaustruct plastic weld, I tried the Tamiya and testors variants and they are awful. The Testors doesn't have the capillary action of the plaustruct and eats through thin plastic, the Tamiya smells God awful and gives you a high.
I however use the small metal tubes of Krazy or gorilla gel CA for very small model kits and accessories such as dumpsters, power boxes, or attaching certain building details. I like the fact it doesn't run and it's easier to apply with a tooth pick or fine fuzz brush used in the dental or nail industry.
As for paper models, I have to disagree. Yes slapping on a photo paper facade on a box is a copout and not a true model.
However, there are a few masters in our hobby that have made 3d buildings fully out of a combination of cardstock, construction paper, and regular paper. That when placed side by side with a plastic build, you have a very hard time telling the difference in materials used.
I personally have started using adhesive photopaper prints only for my background. Looks far more realistic then a painted or solded sky blue one. Photoshoping one your self saves you hundreds of dollars on commercially avaliable ones. With the right foreground to background transition it all blends wonderfully and gives you immursive depth.
You are completely welcome to disagree. Most paper models viewed by most people are through another media. The majority of viewers these days is through social "digital" media.
I was never impressed with "paper" models when viewed, up close, live. Therefore, the consensus on paper models is subjective. Objectively, they succumb to humidity. Ask Lance Mindheim about the latter. In retrospect, a paper model would never pass the litmus test of a legitimate museum culture. My argument for the built up model comes from this context.
Having said this, one can choose to model in whatever medium they want and come out with a reasonable impression. Cheers.
That's not why museums don't want models with CA glue. The problem is CA glue offgasses for years and trapped in a display case those offgasses collect enough to deteriorate other items in the case.
That is one of the reasons. I know from experience.
Boomer. Have you tried Deluxe Materials products ? I think you'll like their product line. Preticularly the glue's . For instance, Deluxe Materials Glue n glaze for window's. Absolutely no fogging or lose of contact. Great for buildings,rolling stock,locomotives and vehicles. I use these products often.
No I have not, but thanks for the tip, I will look into it.
Good info
Evergreen plastic was the best thing that ever happened to my modeling career. Cheers.
In Australia at least, those Evergreen styrene sheets are so expensive that it's probably cheaper to just buy off the shelf kits, sadly. They can cost between $20 and $30 a sheet.
Some of it is not cheap. It's 8 dollars a sheet here. Check eBay. Sometimes you can find it there.
Hi Boomer, Is Plastruct a sort of MEK which melt the plastic and create a sort of cold weld. I use scenic cement because here in the EU plastruct adhesive is not available probably due to health and safety regulations.
MEK is similar if you can handle the odor.
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Cheers Randy!
So I can’t put heat to it
You can at your own risk. Depends on what you are trying to achieve. I used to vacuum-form (heat form) with evergreen all the time back in the day. Anything goes in your creativity. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama I was trying to do sublimation
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What about MEK as a solvent weld?
Yes! Thank You for brining that up. MEK works good as well. Any solvent "adhesive" should work. It`s just a personal preference. I would test it first though. For example; on the small delicate profile parts. Some solvent is really aggressive with a high melt factor. Cheers.
@@boomerdiorama I havent actually tried using it yet. I have a few gallons of it and have been reading a lot of old mags and it was one of the suggestions.
Enjoying your channel, thnx.
Lol.
Tell us what you really think.
I usually do but I tend to edit things for fear of the evil tooth fairy . . . lol.
Boomer, have you ever used Sintra board for scenery or model buildings?
Yes. Sintra Board works good for model structures in particular cases.