* NOTE, ADDITIONAL INSIGHT REGARDING VIDEO: If you’re struggling to remove the hub with some light taps and/or the hub doesn’t want to come out or budge, use a Slide Hammer. If you’re cheap and don’t want to buy one like me, you can always rent the OEM Tools Slide Hammer from Autozone for free: www.autozone.com/hammers/hammer/p/oemtools-5lb-slide-hammer/2047_0_0 …if the hub bearing is as bad as this one in the video, the slide hammer probably won’t work because it will just pull the hub out of the mount, as what basically happened to me in the video. But if the bearing is still basically fully intact, you can utilize a slide hammer.
Thanks for doing this right, I was looking through RUclips to get a look for any potential unexpected element on the upcoming work (discs, pads, and hubs all round plus new camber arms fluids etc etc.) it’s amazing how many incompetent people post their videos of them screwing up their cars and suggesting mechanics just make things up, it’s painful to watch them and a bl00dy relief to watch someone do it PROPERLY!! Thanks for listing the bolt sizes I needed to know the axle nut diam so you saved me a job dude. Please keep the same format, it’s great to have someone on RUclips doing this the RIGHT WAY!! 100 times thumbs up!!!
Hey, your video just came across my feed, so thanks! I recently replaced four bearing and hub assemblies on my 2006 INFINITI G35x, and one of the hubs was extremely stuck and no amount of hammering would loosen or remove it. A simple fix is to knock out a couple of lug studs and insert a long treated bolt with a flange nut or nut and washer behind the stud plate and use an impact to tighten it. That will force any stuck hub out of the knuckle. Thanks for the video.
Appreciate the comment. I actually did that in this video on a Titan: ruclips.net/video/Su4leWIwakI/видео.htmlsi=n0vJDKN8gQCKUkH6 …unfortunately, it wouldn’t have worked on this particular bearing because it was so bad. It would have just pulled the outer hub/studs out of the bearing itself. Which is basically still what happened with me hammering it. But definitely a good trick to utilize if it isn’t as gone as the one in the video!
About to do both fronts on my '14 Q60S AWD. It's amazing that nearly all the bolt sizes and torque specs are the same (save for the caliper bolts because I have the Akebono's). Really helpful video thats given me a lot of needed courage going in for this job.
Fantastic video, dude. I just got the bearing growls on my g37x and this was the perfect clear and concise do-it-yourself video i needed to make sure i do the swap right lol
Great video 👍 Sorry but did’nt find if the part number and brand of the wheelbearing was mentionned ? I have a 2004 g35x sedan and need to change the pasengers side. Thanks !
I would suggest a slide-hammer for a specialty tool. The OEM 27033 for example that can be rented from Autozone. Wouldn’t have helped me too much with the one in the video considering condition, but if yours is still intact, it’s a great tool option for stubborn hubs.
@@jessetovar100 the dust cover is held in with the bearing. So its all gotta come out to mess with it. And its possible the axle/axle nut has been replaced at this point, which could potentially make it a different size than the OE 32MM.
Im wondering how to get the axle nut out with the front wheel moving. The car is jacked up and I put it in park, should i have put it in drive with the parking brake on?
Parking brake only engages rear brakes. I would suggest getting or borrowing an impact. By farrr the best way to do it. If you have to do it manually, you are gonna have to put it back on the ground, you’re not gonna be able to do it, easily anyway..while jacked up.
Naaaa, tie rod does not need to be disconnected. I had it apart from the other jobs I was doing in addition to the bearing. Pretty sure i noted that in the video.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks for responding this is a job ive been putting off for while due to the job seeming complex, but this made it seem like a breeze, Ive done front bearings on my Lexus, but its not awd.
@@rodboijones7390 its pretty straightforward. Hardest part is getting the old hub out. Especially if it’s destroyed like this was lol. But you can always go rent a slide hammer if needed to help escort it out if it’s in not in horrific condition as the one in the video was.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee another way to get the hub off if its kinda stuck is to put the tire back on and maybe screw on 2 lug nuts, grab it at various angles, it usually works for me.
I see these wheel bearing are bolt ons which is great. I was really hoping they’d weren’t press ins. Like mdx , I didn’t wanna press in the bearing and do all them at work so I bought used hubs. One side went bad then the other front. But now it’s going bad again. Fml. The hubs weren’t cheap either. $300 most wanted for 1 used hub.
So if i was replacing both the front wheel bearings and the shafts, would pulling the bearing allow me to remove the entire shaft through the hub bearing hole? If so i assume i can reinstall the same way? I know the drivers is a tad different and so is the shaft removal process. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Anybody know how to get the ABS light off after install. I replaced bearings/hub with no issues and sensors seem to be untouched, but ABS light has been on ever since
You can pull the ABS code with a capable scanner to verify its the side you did. But something probably happened to it upon install, or is not in there correctly. They can be very sensitive. I had one go bad on me before simply from touching it lol. Nothing happened to it, was perfectly fine went smoothly and for some reason it just didnt like being removed and re-installed. New sensor fixed it.
How did you remove the cv axle? I'm doing the same job and ran into the same issue. Got a new cv axle but unable to remove the existing one. Any special tools/tricks?
It’s not the funniest thing trying to get out. I ended up using a couple big pry bars to get it out. They also make CV Axle fork tool pry bars, but i cant remember if there is room & it would fit in there or not.
Awesome video! I'm looking to do the same to my G. Is there any wheel bearing brand that you would recommend? I see a few options on rockauto but not sure which are good.
Im trying to do this job soon but i also noticed that there’s light clicking noise coming the axle i wonder if i should also replace the axles, im trying not to to be honest since it’s more tedious job
Sorry I don’t know much about tools but I’m looking to give my bf that impact drill that you have in the video. Do you know where I could purchase one & what’s the name of the drill?
Hey! Its a Dewalt DCF894H. You can search that part number on Google and find it from multiple places. But places like Lowes, Home Depot, etc do carry them!
I have the same vehicle in an 07. I’m getting a shake/shimmy in the steering at 75mph. Could it be a bearing? No obvious noise coming from them. Tires were just rotated and re-balanced, btw.
You could start with attempting to check the bearing, check out 0:25 in the video. If you have no noise and no play, I would doubt you have a bad bearing. Higher mph shakes a lot of the time stem from alignment and/or wheel issues. I would maybe be more inclined to think maybe you have a slightly bent wheel that was missed or something, especially since you mentioned the wheels being rotated..could of had a bent wheel in the back that got moved to the front, and now its more noticeable since its up front. If it were me I would evaluate the front end visually (wheel bearing test, control arms/ball joints, axle, etc.), and if nothing is discovered there, move onto wheel/alignment.
This car isn’t mine, and it was totaled unfortunately about a week after I redid the entire front end. But I would suggest a Moog or Timken hub. Both good brands.
Quick question, there's a really common failure on these cars in the form of the rear camber adjusters ie. They ALWAYS seize and become unusable and end up having to be cut off until you switch out for aftermarket parts that have built in adjustment. If you can do that job I'd be eternally grateful as I'm gearing up for it on Friday coming up and would love to know the replacement bolts sizes and M for the Hub side. Until I get the car off the ground I won't get a chance to take a look and at that point I'll likely be cutting the damn things off.
If I ever get the opportunity too, I would be happy to do a video on it. But I’m sure it won’t be before you need it lol. This car isn’t mine, I just did the job on it. And unfortunately the car is actually totaled now from an accident.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Well the fact it got totalled is hardly a surprise, did you ever drive it? The G37 is great fun when you have the advanced track training, but on a straight license I’m not sure they’re such a good idea. I hope everyone was ok?
If I ever get the opportunity too again, I would be happy to do a video on it. I did coils on this but I didn’t record it unfortunately. This car isn’t mine, I just did the job on it. But have you tried disconnecting the the sway bar endlinks on the control arm on both sides at the same time? Should allow you to get then out.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee so theres a small peice bolted on the lower control arm that is there solely to keep the lower strut fork from coming out hahaha. Live and learn. Thank you for replying!!
@@yaboyyjuu7477 you don’t necessarily “need” it, but it makes life a lot easier. But you can get one for like $25 from a variety of places, even Amazon, etc.
Just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. But it had the stock front-end, the 07-08 sedan headlights. I believe the 09 G37 sedan also shares the same headlights as the 07-08 G35 as well.
I've got the 07 headlight in my hands, 09 seems to work. 2010+, the shape is different, close but if it's a stock 08, best wishes. That and the mounting seems to be ever so slightly different to accommodate the slightly more aggressive bumper. There's dick all for custom 07-08 headlights, I found a used pair on eBay for cheap cheap (in comparison to OEM), the seller cleaned them up, new bulbs. I'm going to pop open the lenses and spray the chrome black- If you're looking for ideas.
I'm honestly not sure off of the top of my head. But an easy way to find answers to questions like this is simply look up the parts. Go to a parts source like autozone.com for example, and just start searching the parts between years. I've answered many questions I've had myself with doing this.
No, you don’t NEED to replace the axle nut. However, I’m not opposed to it being replaced. But just speaking from experience, the axle nut typically doesn’t NEED to be replaced after removal. If the nut is damaged and/or if the axle threads are damaged, then it’s definitely ideal and you should replace it, of course. But I’ve come to find the OE axle nut on most vehicles are of better quality then any aftermarket nut, especially the axle nuts that come with a lot of these replacement axles. And just to add to that, the factory service manual does not suggest axle nut replacement after removal, it just suggests discarding and not re-using the cotter pin only. But if it makes you feel better to replace it, I’m certainly not opposed. But in most cases its truly not a necessity.
Sheeesh I would at least day go grab yourself a small propane torch lol. Could try a breaker bar the length of the car lol, breaker bar with a jack…jacking the breaker bar up to give it power to break it loose, you really just need a crazy breaker bar combo with some jack handle extensions to really give you the leverage you need. But there is a possibility it still might not be enough.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I was able to get it by putting the wheel back on and lowering it just enough and kicked it down lol. But now I'm stuck with getting the last 4 off the back of the assembly
Yea, its definitely possible...anything is possible with cars lol. But i would get in there and 100 percent ensure its the wheel bearing/hub, and ensure you don’t have noise coming from brake/rotor, etc.
@@chrisx6995 need to take the wheel off and physically inspect it. Check how low pad(s) are, if they’re making any metal on metal contact, etc. As far as the rotors, if they have grooving and aren’t smooth, then they should be replaced. you can also spin the rotor to make sure its rotating straight, not “wobbling” or off, thats how you can tell if its warped and out of whack or not. Typically though, a rotor probably wouldn’t be warped unless it underwent some serious trama like a bad brake slam on the highway or something where they heated up bad, or if they were just neglected for a long period of time when they needed to be replaced.
@@Carl09of09 thats probably because it wasn’t a MOOG lol. Sorry, I do my fair share or different cars and they sometimes blend together lol. But just checked my order history, its a TIMKEN HA590125.
That last bearing bolt on the fuckin bottom I can’t get off because there’s a bar that’s attached that’s in the way of the nut. I get the nut unscrewed almost all the way, then it gets stuck in the nut no matter what way I turn the wheel
Hmm I don’t remember having any trouble with it. I know it was tight, but I was able to get it with wheel all the way turned. Do you know exactly what the “bar” you referring to is by any chance? Are you able to remove it for better access?
Yes it will! But you can try a couple things if you don’t have an impact. First and best suggestion: once wheel is taken off with brakes still intact, have someone pressing the brake pedal in-cabin while you or someone is breaking the nut loose with a breaker bar. The more leverage the better. Other option, place a big pry bar or wrecking bar in between the lugs studs and have the other end of the bar planted on the floor to prevent it from spinning, then break it loose from there. That method is more risky and more potential strain on the studs. But both methods you can attempt. They’re some other creative methods you can find online, but my first suggestion would be my recommendation.
Funny thing, I was just thinking about putting the rotor back on to try to stop the spin! And thanks for the ABS sensor heads up! I’m sure it will help many of us.
If you aren’t using an impact most definitely gotta do it before cars lifted. I wouldn’t suggest trying though lol. Impact is the way to go and car can be on the ground or in the air.
Next time you can drop the knuckle from the upper control arm and tap it from the back it'll pop right out as opposed to beating it to pieces, had to change the whole front end suspension on my g35x isn't too bad if you have power tools.
I would have maybe considered that if I knew I was gonna be replacing the axle prior to the start of making the video. When I inspected the car many miles before doing this job, the axle boot was a bit torn...but wasn’t as bad as it ended up being in this video, from the customer continuously driving on it. Customer didn’t want to replace it until I showed him there was literally nothing left of it when doing this job. And typically, I don’t have to many issues removing a hub with some whacks. This just ended up being a bit more work due to the horrific condition of the bearing. This bearing was probably worse than most would encounter. But really, the best way to remove a hub thats still intact...if you’re not being to lazy...is get a slider hammer or go rent one from Autozone.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I agree but the slide hammer only works sometimes, the hub itself slid out instead of the bearing when I used it so I took the knuckle off because I had to take it to a shop to press the lower ball joint out and out the new one in but when I took off the knuckle the bearing was still stuck I tapped it lightly from behind and it popped right out even though I was beating on it just like you were with the hammer and it was moving slightly its still easier just to disassemble a bit more to have more access but I hope this comment helps someone else who tried everything like me
@@bennettthomas6434 ahhh damn man. Sorry to hear. You can rent a torque wrench from autozone. You can torque the lug nuts, they should be 80-85 ft. Lbs., that way there should be no questions.
* NOTE, ADDITIONAL INSIGHT REGARDING VIDEO:
If you’re struggling to remove the hub with some light taps and/or the hub doesn’t want to come out or budge, use a Slide Hammer.
If you’re cheap and don’t want to buy one like me, you can always rent the OEM Tools Slide Hammer from Autozone for free:
www.autozone.com/hammers/hammer/p/oemtools-5lb-slide-hammer/2047_0_0
…if the hub bearing is as bad as this one in the video, the slide hammer probably won’t work because it will just pull the hub out of the mount, as what basically happened to me in the video. But if the bearing is still basically fully intact, you can utilize a slide hammer.
Finally someone that just gets to the point Instead of telling life stories, this helped me alot.
I appreciate it 🙏
Literally
Thanks for doing this right, I was looking through RUclips to get a look for any potential unexpected element on the upcoming work (discs, pads, and hubs all round plus new camber arms fluids etc etc.) it’s amazing how many incompetent people post their videos of them screwing up their cars and suggesting mechanics just make things up, it’s painful to watch them and a bl00dy relief to watch someone do it PROPERLY!! Thanks for listing the bolt sizes I needed to know the axle nut diam so you saved me a job dude. Please keep the same format, it’s great to have someone on RUclips doing this the RIGHT WAY!! 100 times thumbs up!!!
I truly appreciate the comment, thank you! 🙏🙌
Way easier than most videos I've watched. Thanks for showing this. A lot of videos show to many things to take off.
Awesome I’m glad it helped 🤙
Hey, your video just came across my feed, so thanks! I recently replaced four bearing and hub assemblies on my 2006 INFINITI G35x, and one of the hubs was extremely stuck and no amount of hammering would loosen or remove it. A simple fix is to knock out a couple of lug studs and insert a long treated bolt with a flange nut or nut and washer behind the stud plate and use an impact to tighten it. That will force any stuck hub out of the knuckle. Thanks for the video.
Appreciate the comment. I actually did that in this video on a Titan:
ruclips.net/video/Su4leWIwakI/видео.htmlsi=n0vJDKN8gQCKUkH6
…unfortunately, it wouldn’t have worked on this particular bearing because it was so bad. It would have just pulled the outer hub/studs out of the bearing itself. Which is basically still what happened with me hammering it. But definitely a good trick to utilize if it isn’t as gone as the one in the video!
About to do both fronts on my '14 Q60S AWD. It's amazing that nearly all the bolt sizes and torque specs are the same (save for the caliper bolts because I have the Akebono's). Really helpful video thats given me a lot of needed courage going in for this job.
Appreciate the comment man
Fantastic video, dude. I just got the bearing growls on my g37x and this was the perfect clear and concise do-it-yourself video i needed to make sure i do the swap right lol
Lol I appreciate it man!
So hard to find useful information about this car specifically. Terrific stuff and thank you for just doing the damn job haha
Lol I appreciate it man! 🙏
Great video, you get to the point and show every step
I appreciate the comment!
Exactly what I was looking for, just bought a 2007 G35X and I’m looking to fix it up cause there isn’t much to it. Just the bearing and the O2 sensor
Awesome glad it helped 🙏🙏
Great video 👍
Sorry but did’nt find if the part number and brand of the wheelbearing was mentionned ? I have a 2004 g35x sedan and need to change the pasengers side. Thanks !
Could you use a puller to get the hub out? I use a big 3 jaw puller to pop the rotors off.
I would suggest a slide-hammer for a specialty tool. The OEM 27033 for example that can be rented from Autozone. Wouldn’t have helped me too much with the one in the video considering condition, but if yours is still intact, it’s a great tool option for stubborn hubs.
Very well explained and detailed. You couldnt ask for a better video
I appreciate the comment! 🙏
Do you know if the 2008 g35 and g35x uses same wheel bearing? I'm looked around and saw a listing that said " 2007-2008 Infiniti G35 (2WD Models)"
I think my bearing dust shield was installed backwards. So I'm trying to see if the axle nut has to come off in order to remove the shield?
For a 07 G35X
I got the 32mm socket for the axle nut, but the socket seems to be just a tad bit small
@@jessetovar100 the dust cover is held in with the bearing. So its all gotta come out to mess with it. And its possible the axle/axle nut has been replaced at this point, which could potentially make it a different size than the OE 32MM.
Im wondering how to get the axle nut out with the front wheel moving. The car is jacked up and I put it in park, should i have put it in drive with the parking brake on?
Parking brake only engages rear brakes. I would suggest getting or borrowing an impact. By farrr the best way to do it. If you have to do it manually, you are gonna have to put it back on the ground, you’re not gonna be able to do it, easily anyway..while jacked up.
You made this look so easy, But is it necessary to remove the lower tie rod to access the 17mm wheel bearing bolts?
Naaaa, tie rod does not need to be disconnected. I had it apart from the other jobs I was doing in addition to the bearing. Pretty sure i noted that in the video.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks for responding this is a job ive been putting off for while due to the job seeming complex, but this made it seem like a breeze, Ive done front bearings on my Lexus, but its not awd.
@@rodboijones7390 its pretty straightforward. Hardest part is getting the old hub out. Especially if it’s destroyed like this was lol. But you can always go rent a slide hammer if needed to help escort it out if it’s in not in horrific condition as the one in the video was.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee another way to get the hub off if its kinda stuck is to put the tire back on and maybe screw on 2 lug nuts, grab it at various angles, it usually works for me.
@@rodboijones7390 most definitely an option as well!!
Man. I wish the wheel bearings on my 2008 BMW 335i were as easy as this. I'm debating between this, or the RWD version of the G37.
I see these wheel bearing are bolt ons which is great. I was really hoping they’d weren’t press ins. Like mdx , I didn’t wanna press in the bearing and do all them at work so I bought used hubs. One side went bad then the other front. But now it’s going bad again. Fml. The hubs weren’t cheap either. $300 most wanted for 1 used hub.
So if i was replacing both the front wheel bearings and the shafts, would pulling the bearing allow me to remove the entire shaft through the hub bearing hole? If so i assume i can reinstall the same way? I know the drivers is a tad different and so is the shaft removal process. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Yea actually you can definitely get away with doing that. when the hubs are out, the shaft can pull right thru it.
Anybody know how to get the ABS light off after install. I replaced bearings/hub with no issues and sensors seem to be untouched, but ABS light has been on ever since
You can pull the ABS code with a capable scanner to verify its the side you did. But something probably happened to it upon install, or is not in there correctly. They can be very sensitive. I had one go bad on me before simply from touching it lol. Nothing happened to it, was perfectly fine went smoothly and for some reason it just didnt like being removed and re-installed. New sensor fixed it.
Yo where could I get not too expensive front wheel bearing/hub for my ‘13 g37x? Thanks
Www.rockauto.com
How did you remove the cv axle? I'm doing the same job and ran into the same issue. Got a new cv axle but unable to remove the existing one. Any special tools/tricks?
It’s not the funniest thing trying to get out. I ended up using a couple big pry bars to get it out. They also make CV Axle fork tool pry bars, but i cant remember if there is room & it would fit in there or not.
Awesome video! I'm looking to do the same to my G. Is there any wheel bearing brand that you would recommend? I see a few options on rockauto but not sure which are good.
I appreciate the comment! I would suggest a Moog or Timken bearing
Im trying to do this job soon but i also noticed that there’s light clicking noise coming the axle i wonder if i should also replace the axles, im trying not to to be honest since it’s more tedious job
I hear that, might be easier to do though since you’re already going to be in there. I did the axles on this thing at the same time.
Could this have something to do with the power steering also?
No, the hub shouldn’t have any affect on anything power steering related.
Hi great video, what kind of impact is that?
Appreciate it. Its a Dewalt DCF894F.
Sorry I don’t know much about tools but I’m looking to give my bf that impact drill that you have in the video. Do you know where I could purchase one & what’s the name of the drill?
Hey! Its a Dewalt DCF894H. You can search that part number on Google and find it from multiple places. But places like Lowes, Home Depot, etc do carry them!
What brand front axles do you have
Not my car, but they are from Napa
I have the same vehicle in an 07. I’m getting a shake/shimmy in the steering at 75mph. Could it be a bearing? No obvious noise coming from them. Tires were just rotated and re-balanced, btw.
You could start with attempting to check the bearing, check out 0:25 in the video. If you have no noise and no play, I would doubt you have a bad bearing. Higher mph shakes a lot of the time stem from alignment and/or wheel issues. I would maybe be more inclined to think maybe you have a slightly bent wheel that was missed or something, especially since you mentioned the wheels being rotated..could of had a bent wheel in the back that got moved to the front, and now its more noticeable since its up front. If it were me I would evaluate the front end visually (wheel bearing test, control arms/ball joints, axle, etc.), and if nothing is discovered there, move onto wheel/alignment.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks. I will check all this out. I appreciate it
@@EricRodriguez-cx9ug no problem 👍
What brand hub did you get, and is it still good?
This car isn’t mine, and it was totaled unfortunately about a week after I redid the entire front end. But I would suggest a Moog or Timken hub. Both good brands.
Just wondering how much is labor for a job like this? I was asking because I was thinking about buying a used one just like this.
Really varies to be honest. But I would 100 percent recommend to never buy a used hub bearing, if thats what you’re referring too.
Quick question, there's a really common failure on these cars in the form of the rear camber adjusters ie. They ALWAYS seize and become unusable and end up having to be cut off until you switch out for aftermarket parts that have built in adjustment. If you can do that job I'd be eternally grateful as I'm gearing up for it on Friday coming up and would love to know the replacement bolts sizes and M for the Hub side. Until I get the car off the ground I won't get a chance to take a look and at that point I'll likely be cutting the damn things off.
If I ever get the opportunity too, I would be happy to do a video on it. But I’m sure it won’t be before you need it lol. This car isn’t mine, I just did the job on it. And unfortunately the car is actually totaled now from an accident.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Well the fact it got totalled is hardly a surprise, did you ever drive it? The G37 is great fun when you have the advanced track training, but on a straight license I’m not sure they’re such a good idea. I hope everyone was ok?
Yo man, is there any chance you have a video of the front struts being replaced. I cant figure out why mine won't come out 🤕
If I ever get the opportunity too again, I would be happy to do a video on it. I did coils on this but I didn’t record it unfortunately. This car isn’t mine, I just did the job on it. But have you tried disconnecting the the sway bar endlinks on the control arm on both sides at the same time? Should allow you to get then out.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee so theres a small peice bolted on the lower control arm that is there solely to keep the lower strut fork from coming out hahaha. Live and learn.
Thank you for replying!!
@@levischlagel haha truee
I have a 06 g35x AWD .. i have the wheel barring (with the 4 holes) but i cannot find the hub (with the actual bolts on it) please help
You mean you need the mounting bolts for the hub to the knuckle? Did you break them or something?
What if i dont have a torch???
@@yaboyyjuu7477 you don’t necessarily “need” it, but it makes life a lot easier. But you can get one for like $25 from a variety of places, even Amazon, etc.
Did you do a front end conversion ? I have an 08 g35 sedan and I’m wondering if the 2010+ model g37 headlights fit the 08 g35
Just for reference, this isn’t my vehicle. But it had the stock front-end, the 07-08 sedan headlights. I believe the 09 G37 sedan also shares the same headlights as the 07-08 G35 as well.
I've got the 07 headlight in my hands, 09 seems to work. 2010+, the shape is different, close but if it's a stock 08, best wishes. That and the mounting seems to be ever so slightly different to accommodate the slightly more aggressive bumper. There's dick all for custom 07-08 headlights, I found a used pair on eBay for cheap cheap (in comparison to OEM), the seller cleaned them up, new bulbs. I'm going to pop open the lenses and spray the chrome black- If you're looking for ideas.
Does the Infiniti g35 wheel bearing come in one piece ?
Yup it does!
Does all 07 and up Infiniti g35-g37 have the same wheel bearing ?
I'm honestly not sure off of the top of my head. But an easy way to find answers to questions like this is simply look up the parts. Go to a parts source like autozone.com for example, and just start searching the parts between years. I've answered many questions I've had myself with doing this.
Any idea If it's the same for a G37 ?
Yessir its the same for the G37x AWD.
do you need to change the axle nut?
No, you don’t NEED to replace the axle nut. However, I’m not opposed to it being replaced. But just speaking from experience, the axle nut typically doesn’t NEED to be replaced after removal. If the nut is damaged and/or if the axle threads are damaged, then it’s definitely ideal and you should replace it, of course. But I’ve come to find the OE axle nut on most vehicles are of better quality then any aftermarket nut, especially the axle nuts that come with a lot of these replacement axles. And just to add to that, the factory service manual does not suggest axle nut replacement after removal, it just suggests discarding and not re-using the cotter pin only. But if it makes you feel better to replace it, I’m certainly not opposed. But in most cases its truly not a necessity.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks👍
*NOTE, ADDITIONAL INFO REGARDING VIDEO:
The brake torque specs slightly varied throughout the years, as well as between the different piston variations. Below is each years front brake torque specs as per the Infinity FSM:
G35=
2007:
1 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 18Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
2008:
1 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 18Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
G37 =
2009:
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
4 piston caliper; Caliper to knuckle Bolts =
98Ft.Lbs.
2010:
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 98Ft.Lbs.
4 piston caliper; Caliper to knuckle Bolts =
98Ft.Lbs.
2011:
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 91-98Ft.Lbs.
4 piston caliper; Caliper to knuckle Bolts =
91-98Ft.Lbs.
2012:
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 91Ft.Lbs.
4 piston caliper; Caliper to knuckle Bolts =
91Ft.Lbs.
2013:
2 piston caliper; Caliper Bolts = 20Ft.Lbs. Bracket Bolts = 91Ft.Lbs.
4 piston caliper; Caliper to knuckle Bolts =
91Ft.Lbs.
Men you are a life saving.
🙏🙏
I need some tips on how to bust the axle nut with no impact or torch 😬😬😬🤧
Sheeesh I would at least day go grab yourself a small propane torch lol. Could try a breaker bar the length of the car lol, breaker bar with a jack…jacking the breaker bar up to give it power to break it loose, you really just need a crazy breaker bar combo with some jack handle extensions to really give you the leverage you need. But there is a possibility it still might not be enough.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I was able to get it by putting the wheel back on and lowering it just enough and kicked it down lol. But now I'm stuck with getting the last 4 off the back of the assembly
Mines making noise but has no play. Is that possible?
Yea, its definitely possible...anything is possible with cars lol. But i would get in there and 100 percent ensure its the wheel bearing/hub, and ensure you don’t have noise coming from brake/rotor, etc.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee How do you check if its coming from the brake or rotor? How do you check for a warped rotor?
@@chrisx6995 need to take the wheel off and physically inspect it. Check how low pad(s) are, if they’re making any metal on metal contact, etc. As far as the rotors, if they have grooving and aren’t smooth, then they should be replaced. you can also spin the rotor to make sure its rotating straight, not “wobbling” or off, thats how you can tell if its warped and out of whack or not. Typically though, a rotor probably wouldn’t be warped unless it underwent some serious trama like a bad brake slam on the highway or something where they heated up bad, or if they were just neglected for a long period of time when they needed to be replaced.
How much did you charged for that job.
i believe $150-$175.
Where did you buy the hub assembly from?
It’s a MOOG, from Rockauto.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee thanks man, I appreciate it, didn't want to mess with pressing the hub(wheel stud assy) out of the old one!
@@Carl09of09 definitely agree, assembly is the way to go 👍
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I couldn't find that part you got a part number by chance?
@@Carl09of09 thats probably because it wasn’t a MOOG lol. Sorry, I do my fair share or different cars and they sometimes blend together lol. But just checked my order history, its a TIMKEN HA590125.
I can’t fit the ABS sensor back in, it hits the hub before it sits flush..
The hub is probably not in the right position, compare positioning to the opposite side if you are only doing one, and double-check from there.
This was very helpful thank you🇧🇸
Awesome, glad it helped!
Súper Good work 100%👍
Appreciate the comment 🙏🙏
So helpful thanks alot🙏🏾🙏🏾
Good vid
I appreciate it!
Very helpful👍
Same problem on my M37X but I smash the treats in the axle
Man, I didn’t know they were hidden treats in there 😂
Dude I️ watched this video and got my shit done your the fucking man bro my shit dosent sound like a fucking airplane anymore haha
😂🙏🙏
That last bearing bolt on the fuckin bottom I can’t get off because there’s a bar that’s attached that’s in the way of the nut. I get the nut unscrewed almost all the way, then it gets stuck in the nut no matter what way I turn the wheel
Hmm I don’t remember having any trouble with it. I know it was tight, but I was able to get it with wheel all the way turned. Do you know exactly what the “bar” you referring to is by any chance? Are you able to remove it for better access?
Wow that is beyond gone!
Indeed it was!
And if you don’t have an impact wrench? That 32mm axle nut just spins…..
Yes it will! But you can try a couple things if you don’t have an impact. First and best suggestion: once wheel is taken off with brakes still intact, have someone pressing the brake pedal in-cabin while you or someone is breaking the nut loose with a breaker bar. The more leverage the better. Other option, place a big pry bar or wrecking bar in between the lugs studs and have the other end of the bar planted on the floor to prevent it from spinning, then break it loose from there. That method is more risky and more potential strain on the studs. But both methods you can attempt. They’re some other creative methods you can find online, but my first suggestion would be my recommendation.
Funny thing, I was just thinking about putting the rotor back on to try to stop the spin! And thanks for the ABS sensor heads up! I’m sure it will help many of us.
@@mattd5893 🙏🙏🙏
My right front bearing went about 90k miles and my right front went about 100k miles.
They really don’t last that long huh:(
Sheesh thats kinda early in my opinion, but there are tons of different factors that can contribute to the failure of a wheel bearing.
you do the axle nut before you lift the car up
If you aren’t using an impact most definitely gotta do it before cars lifted. I wouldn’t suggest trying though lol. Impact is the way to go and car can be on the ground or in the air.
Hey tgey have unvented the light bulb💡💡💡💡💡
Well I’ll be damned. I didn’t know “tgey unvented” it.
Next time you can drop the knuckle from the upper control arm and tap it from the back it'll pop right out as opposed to beating it to pieces, had to change the whole front end suspension on my g35x isn't too bad if you have power tools.
I would have maybe considered that if I knew I was gonna be replacing the axle prior to the start of making the video. When I inspected the car many miles before doing this job, the axle boot was a bit torn...but wasn’t as bad as it ended up being in this video, from the customer continuously driving on it. Customer didn’t want to replace it until I showed him there was literally nothing left of it when doing this job. And typically, I don’t have to many issues removing a hub with some whacks. This just ended up being a bit more work due to the horrific condition of the bearing. This bearing was probably worse than most would encounter. But really, the best way to remove a hub thats still intact...if you’re not being to lazy...is get a slider hammer or go rent one from Autozone.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I agree but the slide hammer only works sometimes, the hub itself slid out instead of the bearing when I used it so I took the knuckle off because I had to take it to a shop to press the lower ball joint out and out the new one in but when I took off the knuckle the bearing was still stuck I tapped it lightly from behind and it popped right out even though I was beating on it just like you were with the hammer and it was moving slightly its still easier just to disassemble a bit more to have more access but I hope this comment helps someone else who tried everything like me
If you mess with the upper control arm or knuckle you’ll need an alignment afterwards, no thanks
@@TakeThis_L yea I got rid of it I only carry 9 or .40 .
No torque wrench thing crossing fingers
You can get away without it. Just don’t over-torque. You can feel it out basically. Don’t force it.
Didn't tighten the lugnuts down enough wheel almost fell off lost a stud might have to redo the while thing
@@bennettthomas6434 ahhh damn man. Sorry to hear. You can rent a torque wrench from autozone. You can torque the lug nuts, they should be 80-85 ft. Lbs., that way there should be no questions.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee deffinatly a future investment
Is there a difference between the front and rear on a g37?
Yea they are both different