I am thankful for your assistance and patience. I learned a lot of great hands-on knowledge by seeing how it should be done. Thank you for sharing and keeping it simple sir!! Subscribed and Thumbs up.
Gutintight I love it. You sir are awesome thanks for the video. On a different note why in the heck doesn't someone come up with an all aluminum intake. Plastic seems to cheap and breakable😂
I have used several Dorman manifolds but it was of necessity. I haven't had any issues. I don't know if their bad name isn't earned from unmerited reviews & legend.. like saying Auto Zone parts suck but Advance Auto & O'Reilly sells the same stuff & their parts are ok... 🤷 who makes the one in the NAPA parts box? as always, buyer beware
Thanks man, I’ve got the same truck and problem. What’s the book time on this job? I’m not sure I want to attempt it but I’m curious what to expect to pay. Cheers .
I think it might be just shy of 3 hours labor. It really isn't that big of a job or skill level requirement. The wire harness peels away fairly easy & lays back so the connectors are obvious where they go. If you don't force the project points, one won't have any issues
Thanks for the video Daryl, appreciate it. One question - it looks like there might have been some pitting around the passenger side coolant inlet on the head, did you do anything to help the gasket seal up well on that side? I've read that folks will add some RTV or fill in the pitted area with JB Weld, curious if you had to do anything like that here.
It only had very slight erosion of the head from coolant etching. The seals in the new kit are supple enough to accommodate that. If it's bad enough, I would use some RTV. Just make sure you clean it good with jet spray & apply product then scrape away excess. Let the gasket be the gasket & the RTV be the filler
@tonyfoxxbuilds1920 it's probably a Dorman product if not a genuine Ford product.. I agree, they feel/look cheap but all in all, a reliable product. Many curse and say never but the OEM part is about 3x the $ and again, I have yet to have an issue... however, they come 1 part # for a few year applications.. on the pass side rear, there's a water outlet nipple that's also plastic, molded into the whole assembly.. if your vehicle uses a separate pipe, it's for the heater core, as I recall, you'll need to cap off that nipple. They supply a rubber cap/plug.. It's junk. Go to parts store and get one that is beefier and make sure to clamp snug, squarely & fully below the barb on the nipple or it'll come off
@@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 I'm talking about the piece that sits between the throttle body and I take manifold. Turns out you can't buy it seprrat you have to buy the entire intake
disconnect the A/C compressor clutch & turn it on, key on, engine off or running. probably doesn't matter but key on, obviously. If it blows... disconnect the radiator fan & see if it blows.. If it only blows when engaging the defrost or A/C (both modes activate the compressor, therefore the whole circuit is used) then it isn't your dash blower motor. If neither the A/C compressor clutch or radiator fan relieves the fuse blowing... there has to be a pinched wire or shorted to ground between the relay & fuse or relay & low pressure switch (which could be the short) or between the pressure switch & the compressor clutch. Could be shorted on the radiator fan side of the circuit too
find out what cylinder is misfiring, if you can. If it's only 1 cylinder, you can't have mismatched coil or injector connectors or there'd be 2 cylinders misfiring.. Relocate 1 coil with another & see if the misfire follows the coil..
could be liquids ran down into the intake ports.. run it for a bit, it could clear up.. also check that injector & coil connectors are not mismatched to wrong cylinder
make sure injector & coil connectors are secure & on the correct unit.. not crossed. Also, if the coil/plug boot set on the spark plug correctly.. then a possible vacuum leak
Bought my 2007 ford f150.brand new...had to change 3 times since I had my truck....I still have it...man tearing my pockets up....😢 and Ford knows about it.but won.t and haven't done anything for the people that buy these ....messed up trucks.what a waste ....
I don't do a lot of work on Ford trucks, necessarily.. I don't really like the Triton engines. I have replaced about a dozen of these though 4.6 liter & 5.4
Excellent step by step video. Thanks buddy, this helped me out and gave me a lot more confidence in tackling this job.
I'm changing my intake manifold as I watch ⌚ your video thx 👍
I am thankful for your assistance and patience. I learned a lot of great hands-on knowledge by seeing how it should be done. Thank you for sharing and keeping it simple sir!! Subscribed and Thumbs up.
thank you very much!
Your video got great details on the do and don't, and that's what I like 👍
Daryl did you have to buy new gaskets or did the intake manifold come with them built in @@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 Mr
Thanks for the help, and great job.
Awesome! Thank you!
I hope you don’t forget to do the cooling bypass tube to the back of the water pump and of course the o-ring kit to go with it cheers
@Colton595
the newer 4.6 doesn't have that tube you speak of.. the manifold extends way down into the valley and no room anyway
Thank you so much. I was looking for the kind of video Thank you again.
Thx a million sir‼️
Gutintight I love it. You sir are awesome thanks for the video. On a different note why in the heck doesn't someone come up with an all aluminum intake. Plastic seems to cheap and breakable😂
plastic manifold seems cheap.. that's why they use them & they're lighter. Gets mpg up & cost of production way down. I don't prefer them myself
Great video. Thinking about tackling this on my 08 F150. What manifold did you use? I’m seeing the popular Dorman one isn’t that good. Thanks
I have used several Dorman manifolds but it was of necessity. I haven't had any issues. I don't know if their bad name isn't earned from unmerited reviews & legend.. like saying Auto Zone parts suck but Advance Auto & O'Reilly sells the same stuff & their parts are ok... 🤷 who makes the one in the NAPA parts box? as always, buyer beware
Question I have a 2005 f150 4.6 the one with the massive intake do you know if everything matches up on the much lower profile of the 2007 one?
hi sir thank you for very nice video .... sir what was the part number for intake manifold because I could not find the same one anywhere.
I got the manifold from a vendor who is actually permanently closed so I don't know
Thank you so much sir
Thanks man, I’ve got the same truck and problem. What’s the book time on this job? I’m not sure I want to attempt it but I’m curious what to expect to pay. Cheers
.
I think it might be just shy of 3 hours labor. It really isn't that big of a job or skill level requirement. The wire harness peels away fairly easy & lays back so the connectors are obvious where they go. If you don't force the project points, one won't have any issues
@@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 Thanks Brother
Thanks for the video Daryl, appreciate it. One question - it looks like there might have been some pitting around the passenger side coolant inlet on the head, did you do anything to help the gasket seal up well on that side? I've read that folks will add some RTV or fill in the pitted area with JB Weld, curious if you had to do anything like that here.
It only had very slight erosion of the head from coolant etching. The seals in the new kit are supple enough to accommodate that. If it's bad enough, I would use some RTV. Just make sure you clean it good with jet spray & apply product then scrape away excess. Let the gasket be the gasket & the RTV be the filler
Ok thanks
How did this intake hold up? I'm about to install it now and I don't feel confident with it.
I have installed probably 50 of them with zero issues
@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 great thanks. I'm new to these plastic things. When I took it out of the box it felt chinesey.
@tonyfoxxbuilds1920 it's probably a Dorman product if not a genuine Ford product.. I agree, they feel/look cheap but all in all, a reliable product. Many curse and say never but the OEM part is about 3x the $ and again, I have yet to have an issue...
however, they come 1 part # for a few year applications.. on the pass side rear, there's a water outlet nipple that's also plastic, molded into the whole assembly.. if your vehicle uses a separate pipe, it's for the heater core, as I recall, you'll need to cap off that nipple. They supply a rubber cap/plug.. It's junk. Go to parts store and get one that is beefier and make sure to clamp snug, squarely & fully below the barb on the nipple or it'll come off
I'm trying to find the black plastic piece between the intake and throttle body with vacuum lines that runs to it, any idea what it's called ?
I think you mean the connector on the passenger side. part number is 9A474.. just called a vacuum connector
@@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 I'm talking about the piece that sits between the throttle body and I take manifold. Turns out you can't buy it seprrat you have to buy the entire intake
@@LuckyWerewolf-yk6wo I don't really remember
Question I have. When I turn my AC on the 10 AMP Fuse blows. Could you please help me and the Compressor is new.
disconnect the A/C compressor clutch & turn it on, key on, engine off or running. probably doesn't matter but key on, obviously. If it blows... disconnect the radiator fan & see if it blows..
If it only blows when engaging the defrost or A/C (both modes activate the compressor, therefore the whole circuit is used) then it isn't your dash blower motor. If neither the A/C compressor clutch or radiator fan relieves the fuse blowing... there has to be a pinched wire or shorted to ground between the relay & fuse or relay & low pressure switch (which could be the short) or between the pressure switch & the compressor clutch.
Could be shorted on the radiator fan side of the circuit too
@@darylsparks-sparksautomoti6066 thanks again. I will try
Where was your idle air temperature sensor located ???
I don't know off hand.. I assume in the air box or intake tube
I’ll go back and recheck it all but I think it might be the intake it self
find out what cylinder is misfiring, if you can. If it's only 1 cylinder, you can't have mismatched coil or injector connectors or there'd be 2 cylinders misfiring..
Relocate 1 coil with another & see if the misfire follows the coil..
I watch ur video doing this. But now my tuck starts but starts to back fire and shake bad. Please help. 2008 f150 4.6
could be liquids ran down into the intake ports.. run it for a bit, it could clear up.. also check that injector & coil connectors are not mismatched to wrong cylinder
Got the same truck bro try replacing the idle air temperature sensor
I had mine done intake and now it got a miss to it shows misfire runs like crap
make sure injector & coil connectors are secure & on the correct unit.. not crossed. Also, if the coil/plug boot set on the spark plug correctly.. then a possible vacuum leak
Ok
Bought my 2007 ford f150.brand new...had to change 3 times since I had my truck....I still have it...man tearing my pockets up....😢 and Ford knows about it.but won.t and haven't done anything for the people that buy these ....messed up trucks.what a waste ....
I don't do a lot of work on Ford trucks, necessarily.. I don't really like the Triton engines. I have replaced about a dozen of these though 4.6 liter & 5.4