I think you should take all the screws out and completely fill the club head with foam. Wait half an hour then trim off the excess foam. Then close it all up again And test again.
You need a Channel Fill foam that expands from the bottom up. It's what they use in ice chests and boats to fill the cavity between the inner and outer layer. Handifoam is a brand that makes a good one.
The way you sprayed that foam in just added a little uncontrolled weight. If you want to change anything, fill it up and wait for it to completely dry. You also need to hold the can vertically and press the "trigger" much harder, that way you get the correct expanding and chemical mix intended by the manufacturer. Yes, it will be messy, but its expanding foam, so do it outside haha
I tried this exact same fix on a Callaway Epic flash Three-wood head to fix a piece of epoxy rattling around I could not get out. Problem was with only one weight screw to remove, it was extremely difficult to get foam to actually spray inside the head because of the pressure buildup…I actually got more on me than probably in the head! As pointed out by others, you would need to leave both screws out for a period of time for the foam to completely cure.
I had my driver face shaved (I am 76 years old my club head speed is about 85 MPH) picked up about 10 to 15 yards due to thinner face and more trampoline effect. The first time I used it with my regular foursome , everyone immediately turned and asked what the hell was that ? The sound did change , it is just so hard to cheat these days 😅
As a construction professional with decades of experience, I can certainly assure you the foam in such a club head will still be wet after an hour. Expanding construction foam requires air to out gas the solvent into. The outgassing requires about 250 times the volume of the foam to outgas effectively into. Then it will dry over night to about 90% fully cured. The foam in this experiment was certainly wet and sloshy.
The early metalwoods used expanding foam in the head to deaden the sound. At the time the sound of metal heads was off-putting to players used to the sound of wood. As time passed, foam was removed for a several reasons. One, players became more accustomed to the sound of metal heads. Second, manufacturers wanted to use the weight to improve playability and third, the foam had a tendency to break down over time and start to rattle.
I wonder if you could fill up shafts with expanding foam which help with vibration. Also, different kinds of expanding foam exist and they all have different properties.
You need to add the foam and let it cure, it will lose a little bit of the weight by moisture escaping. Acetone will remove the foam still wet. All the original steel head were foam filled
Interesting experiment. Great idea putting your mic next to the ball. I don't understand why people don't do that when trying to record the sound of any club.
I used this foam method to immobilize a loose piece of hot melt. I added about 6 g (more than half the volume) and the sound difference is significant. The head with the foam sounds extremely muted, however, I noticed that some foam inadvertently got splashed on the driver face. Also, it's important to not break rule 4.c and not totally fill the head cavity.
@@EFGMC Cobra Radspeed XB. I'm fairly certain my poor hotmelt technique caused smaller balls of glue to become loose. So far, the foam has been a good solution to immobilize all of the loose bits. Foam may be a preferred solution over hotmelt.
@@vdjacob Make sure you are using the right kind of hot glue if you do it, real hotmelt would not come off, cheaper stuff that hardens at room temperature might.
Great stuff makes a foam that expands more than the foam you used. The original foam when sprayed in around newly installed widows would keep on expanding and push the window frame inward and away from the studs. And could make the window inoperable. I also believe this foam takes much longer than 20 minutes to solidify. If you decide to try it again. I would find the foam that expands the most. And remove all screws. And fill it until foam is coming out all holes. And leave it open until you can confirm the foam is solid Try spraying some foam inside a tennis ball to see how long it takes to harden.
@@golfish8589 It reduces vibration and lowers the pitch. You can put it in different places but it usually is best bottom middle to back in the head. I spreads out a good bit so it's not likely to make much difference influencing ball flight, unless you use at least 5-6g.
Tried this several years ago. Adams driver. The foam needs air to cure so leave the access point open for a day or so. Ended up retiring that driver. The foam never did cure completely so buy a driver that suits your ear and one other thing if you don't like looking at it you will never be able to hit it .
I have tried it and wish I had known about it before hot melt. I destroyed a budget driver head with hot met, Y the melt type got brittle then caused a rattle, so to over come this added expanding foam. The driver ended up at E6 swing weight.
You might want to redo this with both weights out, filling the head completely up, until it's literally blowing out of those holes. Then let it set for a bit before testing.
Hi AJ, are you familiar with the Wilson D7 irons? If the power slots covers come off, will it affect the performance of the club? Would you be able to fill the gap with foam?
Usually that stuff is more cosmetic than anything. I don't have a Wilson account so I can't say for sure though. Should be able to epoxy the emblems back on.
I have a seperate non related video question for you which I hope you can answer. I have a Recoil ES 760 F2 shaft which was fitted to an apex 7 iron demo head with an adapter. I would like to fit it in a sand wedge head. How can I find out how much to tip trim it. Would it originally have been trimmed normally for a an iron hosel, or differently trimmed for an adapter to fit the head. Hope you can help
You would have to ask the person who assembled it. If you want to assume it was originally trimmed to a 7i, then we would probably trim another inch or 1 1/2 off the tip for wedges. You can also try and find graphics measurements online to help calculate how much it was tipped.
@EFGMC Thanks for your answer, I assume it was assembled by Callaway as it was a demo club, I have tried looking for tip trim info on line, but so far no luck, but thanks again for taking the time to respond
@@EFGMC I have now found the standard tip trim chart for the shaft, I'm going to assume it was a standard 7 iron tip originally of 2.5", the wedge is 4" trim, so, as you said, an extra 1.5" to trim off. Thanks
I think your data set is too small - the minor changes in distance and launch angle were likely not due to the foam. You used so little, I didn't even notice a change in sound at impact. As for the hot-melt, I recently adjusted my Titleist D3 which I shortened to 44inch. I watched your earlier vids and did my own analysis/research: Hot-melt is a handy product to adjust swing weight on drivers, woods, and hybrids. The key as you said is knowing how much you want to add. Removal is not simple but can be done by just digging it out a glob at a time with a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end. The real issue is price - "Hot melt" is about $19 USD/tube which has less than 40 usable grams. Moreover, shipping is another $11 for the cheapest postage! I did further research, it appears to be nothing more than Surebonder AT-4930 permanent pressure sensitive adhesive which can be bought for about $6. Last - the standard (cheapest) gun is another $25 or more (100's for a self heating gun). I modified and used a standard caulk gun by using a large washer at the tip end and an appropriate sized dowel to push on the back end. I heated the adhesive tube using a propane torch - it takes 2-3 mins of even heat to get it ready to flow. Sound was similar to before due to the fact that the D3 had some hot-melt from the factory.
Having worked in Construction for 20+ years and used these products, I'm shouting "NO ! NO !! NO !!!" . I have no idea what trying this is attempting to achieve but its a low cost Vs high LOSS Vs What Gain Exactly ? Worst is, unless You can X-Ray the Driver Head there is absolutely No Way of knowing where the foam has/has not filled. And even then, what if it hasn't gone where You do want (and explain how You know) and worse still HAS gone where You DON'T want. Drivers are HIDEOUSLY expensive enough without this kind of too many beers, late night Voodoo. Golf is tricky enough without upsetting the already capricious Gods whose names must never be uttered.
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I think you should take all the screws out and completely fill the club head with foam. Wait half an hour then trim off the excess foam. Then close it all up again And test again.
Absolutely
I think this is how most people would do it. Squeeze it in quickly not short bursts.
Fill 'er all the way up...especially if leaving it in there, asking for rattles. Also only hope for sound improvement is to have it full.
You need a Channel Fill foam that expands from the bottom up. It's what they use in ice chests and boats to fill the cavity between the inner and outer layer. Handifoam is a brand that makes a good one.
The way you sprayed that foam in just added a little uncontrolled weight. If you want to change anything, fill it up and wait for it to completely dry.
You also need to hold the can vertically and press the "trigger" much harder, that way you get the correct expanding and chemical mix intended by the manufacturer. Yes, it will be messy, but its expanding foam, so do it outside haha
Keep up the great videos!!!
You could do a whole series on goofball golf hacks.
Interesting! Thanks for testing that.
Great video !
I did this to a hollow 4 iron and it worked great
I enjoy your RUclips videos,,,thanks,,,
I tried this exact same fix on a Callaway Epic flash Three-wood head to fix a piece of epoxy rattling around I could not get out. Problem was with only one weight screw to remove, it was extremely difficult to get foam to actually spray inside the head because of the pressure buildup…I actually got more on me than probably in the head! As pointed out by others, you would need to leave both screws out for a period of time for the foam to completely cure.
Interesting..thanks
I had my driver face shaved (I am 76 years old my club head speed is about 85 MPH) picked up about 10 to 15 yards due to thinner face and more trampoline effect. The first time I used it with my regular foursome , everyone immediately turned and asked what the hell was that ? The sound did change , it is just so hard to cheat these days 😅
As a construction professional with decades of experience, I can certainly assure you the foam in such a club head will still be wet after an hour. Expanding construction foam requires air to out gas the solvent into. The outgassing requires about 250 times the volume of the foam to outgas effectively into. Then it will dry over night to about 90% fully cured. The foam in this experiment was certainly wet and sloshy.
The early metalwoods used expanding foam in the head to deaden the sound. At the time the sound of metal heads was off-putting to players used to the sound of wood. As time passed, foam was removed for a several reasons. One, players became more accustomed to the sound of metal heads. Second, manufacturers wanted to use the weight to improve playability and third, the foam had a tendency to break down over time and start to rattle.
I wonder if you could fill up shafts with expanding foam which help with vibration.
Also, different kinds of expanding foam exist and they all have different properties.
You need to add the foam and let it cure, it will lose a little bit of the weight by moisture escaping. Acetone will remove the foam still wet. All the original steel head were foam filled
I’ve always wanted to do this to a PING G425
Interesting experiment. Great idea putting your mic next to the ball. I don't understand why people don't do that when trying to record the sound of any club.
Need to wait a couple hours for the foam to try
My worry would be that it would harden and break off a little bit and rattle inside of the clubhead.
You are supposed to hold the can inverted not horizontal when spraying.
Spray foam does have aquestic properties so it will dull the sound
*Its A L I V E!!! Dr. Golfenstein*
That's what she said!!!!!!!
I used this foam method to immobilize a loose piece of hot melt. I added about 6 g (more than half the volume) and the sound difference is significant. The head with the foam sounds extremely muted, however, I noticed that some foam inadvertently got splashed on the driver face. Also, it's important to not break rule 4.c and not totally fill the head cavity.
It's not hotmelt that broke off, probably welding slag. Hotmelt does not rattle and can't break off. What kind of driver was this?
@@EFGMC Cobra Radspeed XB. I'm fairly certain my poor hotmelt technique caused smaller balls of glue to become loose. So far, the foam has been a good solution to immobilize all of the loose bits. Foam may be a preferred solution over hotmelt.
@@vdjacob Make sure you are using the right kind of hot glue if you do it, real hotmelt would not come off, cheaper stuff that hardens at room temperature might.
Someone ever tried silicone used on external mortar etc that defo wouldn't budge and a clear rubber maybe better than hotmelt in hot weather
wow,great video,really nice to see,Thanke you and may Yahweh bless?
If filling a club head with foam improved performance (distance) the manufacturers would already have done it.
How do you like your SUB 70 Driver? Their factory is only about 1/2 hour West of my town. ⛳
my question would be if this would be legal to use in competions or if it would make the head illegal?
Does it make the Driver head "Non Conforming" ??? I recall folks stuffing yarn in Driver heads to mute the sound and that is "Non Conforming".
Most important question to me => How I get the foam out? ;-)
Very interesting. The sound seemed deeper after the foam. It would have been worth doing the sound test outside as indoors always sound loud.
Any difference was so small here I think going outdoors would be impossible to tell a difference.
Great stuff makes a foam that expands more than the foam you used.
The original foam when sprayed in around newly installed widows would keep on expanding and push the window frame inward and away from the studs. And could make the window inoperable.
I also believe this foam takes much longer than 20 minutes to solidify.
If you decide to try it again. I would find the foam that expands the most. And remove all screws. And fill it until foam is coming out all holes. And leave it open until you can confirm the foam is solid
Try spraying some foam inside a tennis ball to see how long it takes to harden.
How does adding hot glue quiet the driver?
Where do you want the glue to settle?
@@golfish8589 It reduces vibration and lowers the pitch. You can put it in different places but it usually is best bottom middle to back in the head. I spreads out a good bit so it's not likely to make much difference influencing ball flight, unless you use at least 5-6g.
We’ll now, that was a different take on golf “enhancement”! ;-)
Tried this several years ago. Adams driver. The foam needs air to cure so leave the access point open for a day or so. Ended up retiring that driver. The foam never did cure completely so buy a driver that suits your ear and one other thing if you don't like looking at it you will never be able to hit it .
This would be great to trap one of the little slag pieces that cause rattles
That should work!
I have tried it and wish I had known about it before hot melt. I destroyed a budget driver head with hot met, Y the melt type got brittle then caused a rattle, so to over come this added expanding foam. The driver ended up at E6 swing weight.
What kind of glue were you using. Hotmelt should never harden to the point where it could rattle?
Ohh cheap eBay stuff, next time ill be more careful, rodant trap glue, tacky and simple.
Just starting the clip but I’d be concerned about longevity.
Gotta shave the face then fill head with foam to support the thinner face.
You might want to redo this with both weights out, filling the head completely up, until it's literally blowing out of those holes. Then let it set for a bit before testing.
Hi AJ, are you familiar with the Wilson D7 irons?
If the power slots covers come off, will it affect the performance of the club? Would you be able to fill the gap with foam?
Usually that stuff is more cosmetic than anything. I don't have a Wilson account so I can't say for sure though. Should be able to epoxy the emblems back on.
What head was that. Also there are phone apps that can measure sound dB. It would have been able to detect and change is decibels.
It was a Sub70 head. Will need to look into some sound apps. Thanks.
Gotta fill the head up. Didn’t put enough in.
I have a seperate non related video question for you which I hope you can answer.
I have a Recoil ES 760 F2 shaft which was fitted to an apex 7 iron demo head with an adapter. I would like to fit it in a sand wedge head. How can I find out how much to tip trim it. Would it originally have been trimmed normally for a an iron hosel, or differently trimmed for an adapter to fit the head. Hope you can help
You would have to ask the person who assembled it. If you want to assume it was originally trimmed to a 7i, then we would probably trim another inch or 1 1/2 off the tip for wedges. You can also try and find graphics measurements online to help calculate how much it was tipped.
@EFGMC Thanks for your answer, I assume it was assembled by Callaway as it was a demo club, I have tried looking for tip trim info on line, but so far no luck, but thanks again for taking the time to respond
@@EFGMC I have now found the standard tip trim chart for the shaft, I'm going to assume it was a standard 7 iron tip originally of 2.5", the wedge is 4" trim, so, as you said, an extra 1.5" to trim off. Thanks
Did you check the swing weight change?
Would be 2 points
Those kind of foam, could I fill it into a shaft (near the club head) to get a less whipper character of the shaft (now senior) and more stiffer?
Not sure how much the foam would stiffen a shaft.
@@EFGMC thanks. I'll try it
Did you weight the driver head before and after to determine if there is any difference?
5:06
Yes he did, 3-4 grams was the difference
You would need to completely fill the head. For a true test.
Supposed to turn that can upside down bro
Should have used one of those old annoying Nike drivers. 😂
Will it cure?
Gets pretty hard but always has some give to it.
I think adding foam would defeat the purpose of why you bought it in the first place.
OOps...guess I should have watched a little more before asking the weight question!
kinda defeats the purpose of the test if you don't fill it up!
Why the hell would you not fill it all up!!!
Every shaft dampening insert ever created only runs about 6-8 inches max inside the shaft. That was the basis.
Thank you for your reply. @@EFGMC
I think your data set is too small - the minor changes in distance and launch angle were likely not due to the foam. You used so little, I didn't even notice a change in sound at impact. As for the hot-melt, I recently adjusted my Titleist D3 which I shortened to 44inch. I watched your earlier vids and did my own analysis/research: Hot-melt is a handy product to adjust swing weight on drivers, woods, and hybrids. The key as you said is knowing how much you want to add. Removal is not simple but can be done by just digging it out a glob at a time with a piece of wire with a hook bent on the end. The real issue is price - "Hot melt" is about $19 USD/tube which has less than 40 usable grams. Moreover, shipping is another $11 for the cheapest postage! I did further research, it appears to be nothing more than Surebonder AT-4930 permanent pressure sensitive adhesive which can be bought for about $6. Last - the standard (cheapest) gun is another $25 or more (100's for a self heating gun). I modified and used a standard caulk gun by using a large washer at the tip end and an appropriate sized dowel to push on the back end. I heated the adhesive tube using a propane torch - it takes 2-3 mins of even heat to get it ready to flow. Sound was similar to before due to the fact that the D3 had some hot-melt from the factory.
Sounds stupid but that’s why I’m gonna watch all the vid as I could be so wrong 👍👍
you was holding the can the wrong way and that wouldn't even be a half full with how little you squirted in.
If I added anymore, the weight would have jumped to a noticeable amount.
Having worked in Construction for 20+ years and used these products, I'm shouting "NO ! NO !! NO !!!" .
I have no idea what trying this is attempting to achieve but its a low cost Vs high LOSS Vs What Gain Exactly ?
Worst is, unless You can X-Ray the Driver Head there is absolutely No Way of knowing where the foam has/has not filled.
And even then, what if it hasn't gone where You do want (and explain how You know) and worse still HAS gone where You DON'T want.
Drivers are HIDEOUSLY expensive enough without this kind of too many beers, late night Voodoo.
Golf is tricky enough without upsetting the already capricious Gods whose names must never be uttered.
Oh, great. No, not doing that.
Pointless and useless if not filling it UP.
FUN to play around, but the golfing companies know what they are doing with R&D. Foam would of been in there if they thought it would be beneficial.