Nice video. To save some time next time around, you probably dont have to disassemble the caliper from the caliper attachment frame. You can just unscrew the two big bolts that holds the frame to the hub and suspend the whole thing with a wire ore something to the main suspension spring
I have a Passat, FWD, which essentially has the same arrangement. I would have also replaced the axle, following the "while we're there" theory. You only had to remove the Allen head screws on the transmission flange after you removed the rotor and associated components. I realize that as home mechanics, we sometimes make those decisions based on budgetary concerns. I have been doing most repairs on my vehicles for many years, and I don't think I would exaggerate to state I have probably saved tens of thousands of $ over time (I am past 70). Most of my cars have been Volvos, of which I have owned about 6 or 8, all but 1 purchased brand new. The Passat is my first VW, and although it can be a challenge, I enjoy owning it, driving it, and even repairing it. Thanks for your video.
Thank you for the comments. You are correct to assume that budget dictates most everything, so generally it is limited to be what I can afford here and there. The other limitation is that as a daily driver car I had to get it all back together before the week starts again, and that would scare me into not taking on too much! ;) I did replace the axles a few years ago and you are right that it would have probably been easy to include that at the same time. The boots were in terrible condition and I was quoted $1600 to replace both sides, so I ended up doing it myself. (in fact replacing the axles was definitely much easier than the hubs and the pair of axles with boots and joints, etc. wasn't as expensive as I imagined it would be.)
@@stoppedsnoring I believe the nearest VW dealership (about 18 miles away) charges $175 per hour of labor. So far, I have replaced spark plugs, an axle, front and rear brake pads, rear shock absorbers, a fuel filter, air filter, passenger cabin fresh air filter, MAF, PCV valve, automatic transmission control module, engine valve cover gaskets, fuel injectors, and trunk lid support gas cartridges. I plan to replace the front shock absorber cartridges, timing belt, serpentine belt, related tensioner pulleys, and the water pump. I don't even want to guess how much the dealership would charge for all those items, parts and labor. Just replacing the PVC purge valve solenoid was $272 at the VW house.
Good job with the video. Everybody has something to say even if you engineered this thing and was working on it. Nice beIN a man n doing it yourself spending father son time is priceless
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to thank you for posting it anyway. I watched it before doing the replacement myself and it helped me know what to look out for. A few things: 1. You don't need to drop the control arm to get the hub off if you push the axle completely out of the hub first. 2. To push the axle out of the hub, unscrew the 27mm bolt most of the way, then hit it with a mallet to drive the axle out of the hub. You will be able to get it about 90% of the way out before the washer on the axle bolt stops you from driving it further. At this point use a socket extension like you did to push the axle the rest of the way out. 3. Turn the steering wheel full left and full right to allow better access to the brake caliper and hub mount bolts. Much easier to get the breaker bar in there if the wheel well is out of the way. Great video! Thanks again for posting. My Jetta is on the road again and I didn't have to take it to a shop.
Thanks for the upload! Good to see a real car getting worked on and not one that was taken apart prior to recording. About to do my mk6 jetta, cant wait for the rust and busted knuckles!
Over all, your video covered everything that needs to be done for a front wheel bearing hub replacement. A few points that can help you on you next bearing replacement are: 1. After removing the wheel/tire from the car, use a little WD-40 to break loose the rotor from hub. Also can tap with a hammer on the rotor, but not on the braking surface. 2. When getting ready to loosen and remove the bolts that hold the lower control arm, mark their location as a guide for when you re-install. This helps so that you do not have to perform a front end alignment. Sometimes it will be noticeable when driving. 3. After cleaning the inner surface of where the wheel bearing hub goes into, a little lube helps in the installation process. 4. Right before I install the rotor back on, I used a very little amount of grease or lubricant on the surface of the hub where the inner rotor surface will meet. This helps to avoid these parts rusting together for another time. After installing the rotor back in place, recommend you clean the surface with brake clean. Noticed you have dirt and lube all over during the handling process. Which will be absorbed by the brake lining material. 5. After performing the first torque of the axle nut, recommended that the other two torque steps be performed after the wheel is on the car and on the ground. NOTE: For a first time DIY, you have done a great job.
Thanks for all the great tips and taking the time to share them. I imagine the other hub will decide to go sometime soon and I'll be sure to use them on that one! :)
I had my lower arms undone on my Octavia recently, didn't mark the bolts. Just did them back up. Went for alignment a few days later to be on the safe side and the tracking was still spot on.
Much easier to knock brake rotor off while hub is on the car. When you undo the bolt that holds rotor you should take rotor off there and then. Also even if you can use any power tools it will speed things up a great deal. Should defo use new bolts on wheel bearing hub and also driveshaft bolt. These are usually supplied in the box with the new wheel bearing assembly. You have done very well considering you are learning as you go. Good video too. Very useful for any diy ers looking to save a good bit of money. Peace out well done. 👍👍
Replacing both front on my mkvi, along with the coils-which were broken. Made it fairly easy removing the rotor and bearing when I had the strut/knuckle off to begin with. The fun part was getting off the strut and knuckle. Like how he didn't have much rust to deal with; I wasn't so lucky-trying to soak it lose.
A torque wrench is for torquing! After it clicks, you stop as you did, but you do not use it to tighten it further those 60 degrees. It damages the torque wrench. For that you should had used the barker bar.
When you have a rotor rusted to hub strike the rotor with a hammer. Not the braking surface. Smack the area where the wheel bolts go. Strike between used bolt holes. Helpful if you spray with rust buster first. Remember to clean rust and spray area that rusted with copper coat. It won't rust again.
Mk.5 wheel bearings look a hell of a lot easier than doing the Mk.4 wheel bearings. It took me a lot of effort and swearing to get the wheel hub out and I had to buy a press kit along with the wheel hub puller(slide hammer).
I'm not mechanic, but I believe the torque spec you stated on the axle bolt is for the Mark IV Jetta's, except you were to tighten to 148 ft-lbs, roll the wheel 180 degrees, loosen and torque to 37 ft-lbs. The Mark V Jetta's have 3 bolt types possible. Do your own research, but I believe there are: 12 point with ribs- 52 ft-lbs + 90 degree turn, 12 point without ribs- 150 ft-lbs + 180 degree turn Hex head, both torque at- 150 ft-lbs + 180 degree turn
The wheel bearing bolts are 70nm + 90° The 21mm carrier bolts are 190nm. Axle bolt is 200nm plus 180° (use a 3/4 inch breaker bar) any VW bolt that has an angle afterwards should be renewed as they are torque to yield (stretch bolt) Wheel bolts are 120nm
I'm sitting here talking to you in your video, saying "NO, it's a CV!" "uhh, brake line?" and "Jesus, clean that rotor!" But that's all learning mistakes. I do this kind of stuff too, but most people are afraid to try something new. I give you a ton of respect for trying this yourself, and even MORE respect for recording it & putting it on here for the RUclips wolves to rip you to shreds. Doesn't look like that happened very much, so... nice going! You did good.Hell, it worked, right?! As the aviation industry says, "any crash you can walk away from is a good landing." Well, you replaced the parts and you didn't die. Successful endeavor however you look at it.
Thanks for the comment. I enjoyed reading it and it gave me a chuckle and I do appreciate your feedback. I have to admit, I probably don't have much of a clue of what I am doing with a lot of this stuff, but certainly like to just see if I can do it. Even if I get raked over the coals, generally everybody gives good tips and hopefully I can do better on the next attempt!
As a fellow DIYer, you did fantastic bud. RUclips is full of fantastic how-to videos: I've found that we're at about 10+ years with RUclips how-to vids. I'm getting ready to add an electrical fused line for my Uber electronics and a self-made switch panel for it. It's going to have three different horns, a scrolling marquee sign, an electronic air-freshener, and LED-lit Uber signs (all fabricated myself of course). Going to make the video for it, even though some people have already utilized those additions before. It's so easy to do this stuff yourself if you're willing to research and attempt. Again, keep doing what you're doing because you're awesome!!
Good video, thanks for taking the time to record and share. 1. You scared me a little with your axle nut torque spec though. Per VW, the hex bolt like you have is 148 ft-lb + 1/2 turn (always replace). It appears you didn't use a new bolt? I've reused bolts without issues, but you may want to pick up a new one and install. Only costs a few buck and takes a few minutes. 2. When you remove the brakes, you can just take off the 2 16mm bolts and not have to mess with the allen head bolts and spring. 3. To free up the axle from the hub, before you remove the axle nut all the way from the hub, smack it with a hammer to drive the axle out. Works every time.
Same with the brake rotor, smack it hard with a hammer around the inner part (never on the rotor itself) and it'll definitely shake loose any rust! Always works for me. Another tip is to insert a wheel bolt so when the rotor let's go it doesn't fall to the ground or your feet!
I buy tools from harbor freight too. I had same experience with that 1/2 adapter, they break off very easily. I bought a 1/2 impact adapter, so far it's holding good.
Heh, yeah.... I get that sinking feeling in my stomach right when it gives way and I am kicking myself knowing I should have invested in some brand-name stuff. :)
Great video, I have a Mk4 and curious if they went away from pressed bearings as in the Mk4. Seems like most manufacturers went away from pressed bearings to removable hubs. I wanted to give you one tip if you are going to keep your vehicle for a long time. You pretty much want to use blue thread locker all of the time. The red requires more force to remove and can be difficult if you want to remove a bolt in the future. Heat can be used to loosen the red tread locker if required.
should have mentioned this earlier. Make absolutely sure you remove " ALL " greasy finger prints from the rotor braking surface. If you don't, that spot will case harden and the brake machine won't cut that spot if you try and turn them next brake job.
i'm surprised you used the same bolts for the wheel bearings. from what I understand those bolts including the one for the axle, is a one time use. since they were torqued past the limit to re-use.
Not sure if this was mentioned in the comments before and I am not sure if you did this because it was not shown in the video, but try to avoid touching the braking surface of the brake rotor. If you can't avoid it before you reinstall everything it is a good idea to spray down the braking surface of the brake rotor with brake cleaner. Leaving grease marks on the brake surface is not a good idea especially as that grease will be transferred over to the pads and none of that is good for the brakes.
@@vinnierusso2351 I wouldn't kick the tire. If its rusted to hell and nothing seems to get it off what has worked for me so to lower the lift until the tire start touching the ground and then keep lowering it until you hear a pop. The weight of the car will help pop the wheel off. No kicking required. Make sure you lower the lift really slow though. Once it pops lift the car again and youre good to go.
I see that your old bearing did not have any bolts other than the t30 and I'm wondering why that is because I'm seeing it a lot in videos. I also see you purchased bolts for it. Are they necessary or not? Please explain I'm very confused!
You may be right. I bought them because that was recommended not to re-use the old bolts when I originally did research. There's a lot of comments on this video about this sort of thing from people that seem to know a lot more than I do so hopefully they have better insight. I am still waiting for the other one to fail, but it still hasn't caused problems... and may get rid of this car soon though. Heh.
@@stoppedsnoring yeah well mine's a 2008 Passat I just bought for dirt cheap so I don't mind putting some work into it. I bought all the parts to do the front struts, the front sway bar links, the rotors and brakes and some of the calipers. Apart from that I had to do the PCV valve and will be doing the air cabin filters and minor things. I took off a wheel for the first time today and noticed that my rotor didn't have any bolts - whatsoever. I just had a hell of a day loosening up bolts that were so rested on I had to wait after spraying them down a few times using wire brushes scraping off rust. Only to find my sway bar link was determined not to come off..but I am also determined 😁 Keep up the videos!
Yeah, I was totally surprised that is was all together as one assembly. Long gone are the days when you can just pull out and replace the bearing themselves I guess... makes me feel old.. heh heh
Good video, id say you're being a bit too delicate though, you could of knocked the disc off with a couple of whacks around the centre which would of made the job easier and given you better access to the hub
You axle boot was spewing out grease. Idk how old this video is but I'm assuming the hub your replacing in this video is filled with water and it's about time to replace it again
Thanks for your comment. This is all a learning process for me and I didn't know that could be a problem. Ironically I took in the Jetta for an oil change shortly after I replaced the hub and they alerted me to this fact too!
@@stoppedsnoring great video, love the "can do" spirit. Hat Tip for having your son involved, too. HOWEVER ... you succesfully remove/replace the front hub assy .... but have someone change the oil? LOL :P
DONT TELL ME I HAD TO DO SOMETHING I DIDNT DO!!! NO YOU DONT!!! I must be completely lucky or just stupid, cause I did BOTH FRONT RIGHT AND LEFT on my 2006 Jetta and didn't touch the lower control arm. Only this I had to 'unbolt' was the wheel, caliber bracket WITH the caliber and brakes still on it, drive shaft bolt, aaaaand the 4 bearing assembly bolts. If you can't get to 'the bolts behind the hub' get the right tool, or try turning the steering! Don't tell me it can't be done, when I done it!!!
+stoppedsnoring No problem! Anti seize is also a must have, that's if you plan on working on your car yourself makes bolts come out and in easy keeps rust away.!
It was the brake wear sensor. Only the driver side has them and it goes into the brake pad. He disassembled the brake assembly and had to remove it. ABS sensor is in a different location.
I was thinking about your comment. Wouldn't the heat of hitting the break the first time immediately burn off/vaporize any fingerprints/grease I may have left on there or am I missing something?
Nice video. To save some time next time around, you probably dont have to disassemble the caliper from the caliper attachment frame. You can just unscrew the two big bolts that holds the frame to the hub and suspend the whole thing with a wire ore something to the main suspension spring
I have a Passat, FWD, which essentially has the same arrangement. I would have also replaced the axle, following the "while we're there" theory. You only had to remove the Allen head screws on the transmission flange after you removed the rotor and associated components. I realize that as home mechanics, we sometimes make those decisions based on budgetary concerns. I have been doing most repairs on my vehicles for many years, and I don't think I would exaggerate to state I have probably saved tens of thousands of $ over time (I am past 70). Most of my cars have been Volvos, of which I have owned about 6 or 8, all but 1 purchased brand new. The Passat is my first VW, and although it can be a challenge, I enjoy owning it, driving it, and even repairing it.
Thanks for your video.
Thank you for the comments. You are correct to assume that budget dictates most everything, so generally it is limited to be what I can afford here and there. The other limitation is that as a daily driver car I had to get it all back together before the week starts again, and that would scare me into not taking on too much! ;) I did replace the axles a few years ago and you are right that it would have probably been easy to include that at the same time. The boots were in terrible condition and I was quoted $1600 to replace both sides, so I ended up doing it myself. (in fact replacing the axles was definitely much easier than the hubs and the pair of axles with boots and joints, etc. wasn't as expensive as I imagined it would be.)
@@stoppedsnoring I believe the nearest VW dealership (about 18 miles away) charges $175 per hour of labor. So far, I have replaced spark plugs, an axle, front and rear brake pads, rear shock absorbers, a fuel filter, air filter, passenger cabin fresh air filter, MAF, PCV valve, automatic transmission control module, engine valve cover gaskets, fuel injectors, and trunk lid support gas cartridges. I plan to replace the front shock absorber cartridges, timing belt, serpentine belt, related tensioner pulleys, and the water pump. I don't even want to guess how much the dealership would charge for all those items, parts and labor. Just replacing the PVC purge valve solenoid was $272 at the VW house.
Good job with the video. Everybody has something to say even if you engineered this thing and was working on it. Nice beIN a man n doing it yourself spending father son time is priceless
I know this is an old video, but I wanted to thank you for posting it anyway. I watched it before doing the replacement myself and it helped me know what to look out for. A few things:
1. You don't need to drop the control arm to get the hub off if you push the axle completely out of the hub first.
2. To push the axle out of the hub, unscrew the 27mm bolt most of the way, then hit it with a mallet to drive the axle out of the hub. You will be able to get it about 90% of the way out before the washer on the axle bolt stops you from driving it further. At this point use a socket extension like you did to push the axle the rest of the way out.
3. Turn the steering wheel full left and full right to allow better access to the brake caliper and hub mount bolts. Much easier to get the breaker bar in there if the wheel well is out of the way.
Great video! Thanks again for posting. My Jetta is on the road again and I didn't have to take it to a shop.
Thanks for the upload! Good to see a real car getting worked on and not one that was taken apart prior to recording. About to do my mk6 jetta, cant wait for the rust and busted knuckles!
Thanks for the comment! I'll keep my fingers crossed for you and hope it goes smoothly for you!!
Over all, your video covered everything that needs to be done for a front wheel bearing hub replacement. A few points that can help you on you next bearing replacement are:
1. After removing the wheel/tire from the car, use a little WD-40 to break loose the rotor from hub. Also can tap with a hammer on the rotor, but not on the braking surface.
2. When getting ready to loosen and remove the bolts that hold the lower control arm, mark their location as a guide for when you re-install. This helps so that you do not have to perform a front end alignment. Sometimes it will be noticeable when driving.
3. After cleaning the inner surface of where the wheel bearing hub goes into, a little lube helps in the installation process.
4. Right before I install the rotor back on, I used a very little amount of grease or lubricant on the surface of the hub where the inner rotor surface will meet. This helps to avoid these parts rusting together for another time. After installing the rotor back in place, recommend you clean the surface with brake clean. Noticed you have dirt and lube all over during the handling process. Which will be absorbed by the brake lining material.
5. After performing the first torque of the axle nut, recommended that the other two torque steps be performed after the wheel is on the car and on the ground.
NOTE: For a first time DIY, you have done a great job.
Thanks for all the great tips and taking the time to share them. I imagine the other hub will decide to go sometime soon and I'll be sure to use them on that one! :)
I had my lower arms undone on my Octavia recently, didn't mark the bolts. Just did them back up. Went for alignment a few days later to be on the safe side and the tracking was still spot on.
Much easier to knock brake rotor off while hub is on the car. When you undo the bolt that holds rotor you should take rotor off there and then. Also even if you can use any power tools it will speed things up a great deal. Should defo use new bolts on wheel bearing hub and also driveshaft bolt. These are usually supplied in the box with the new wheel bearing assembly.
You have done very well considering you are learning as you go. Good video too. Very useful for any diy ers looking to save a good bit of money. Peace out well done. 👍👍
Replacing both front on my mkvi, along with the coils-which were broken. Made it fairly easy removing the rotor and bearing when I had the strut/knuckle off to begin with. The fun part was getting off the strut and knuckle.
Like how he didn't have much rust to deal with; I wasn't so lucky-trying to soak it lose.
A torque wrench is for torquing! After it clicks, you stop as you did, but you do not use it to tighten it further those 60 degrees. It damages the torque wrench. For that you should had used the barker bar.
When you have a rotor rusted to hub strike the rotor with a hammer. Not the braking surface. Smack the area where the wheel bolts go. Strike between used bolt holes. Helpful if you spray with rust buster first. Remember to clean rust and spray area that rusted with copper coat. It won't rust again.
Most organized work I ever seen! Great video!
Mk.5 wheel bearings look a hell of a lot easier than doing the Mk.4 wheel bearings. It took me a lot of effort and swearing to get the wheel hub out and I had to buy a press kit along with the wheel hub puller(slide hammer).
I'm not mechanic, but I believe the torque spec you stated on the axle bolt is for the Mark IV Jetta's, except you were to tighten to 148 ft-lbs, roll the wheel 180 degrees, loosen and torque to 37 ft-lbs. The Mark V Jetta's have 3 bolt types possible. Do your own research, but I believe there are:
12 point with ribs- 52 ft-lbs + 90 degree turn,
12 point without ribs- 150 ft-lbs + 180 degree turn
Hex head, both torque at- 150 ft-lbs + 180 degree turn
Good job man. Great video!
I wish my mk4 had the same set up.
The wheel bearing bolts are 70nm + 90°
The 21mm carrier bolts are 190nm.
Axle bolt is 200nm plus 180° (use a 3/4 inch breaker bar) any VW bolt that has an angle afterwards should be renewed as they are torque to yield (stretch bolt)
Wheel bolts are 120nm
I'm sitting here talking to you in your video, saying "NO, it's a CV!" "uhh, brake line?" and "Jesus, clean that rotor!" But that's all learning mistakes. I do this kind of stuff too, but most people are afraid to try something new. I give you a ton of respect for trying this yourself, and even MORE respect for recording it & putting it on here for the RUclips wolves to rip you to shreds. Doesn't look like that happened very much, so... nice going!
You did good.Hell, it worked, right?! As the aviation industry says, "any crash you can walk away from is a good landing." Well, you replaced the parts and you didn't die. Successful endeavor however you look at it.
Thanks for the comment. I enjoyed reading it and it gave me a chuckle and I do appreciate your feedback. I have to admit, I probably don't have much of a clue of what I am doing with a lot of this stuff, but certainly like to just see if I can do it. Even if I get raked over the coals, generally everybody gives good tips and hopefully I can do better on the next attempt!
As a fellow DIYer, you did fantastic bud. RUclips is full of fantastic how-to videos: I've found that we're at about 10+ years with RUclips how-to vids. I'm getting ready to add an electrical fused line for my Uber electronics and a self-made switch panel for it. It's going to have three different horns, a scrolling marquee sign, an electronic air-freshener, and LED-lit Uber signs (all fabricated myself of course). Going to make the video for it, even though some people have already utilized those additions before. It's so easy to do this stuff yourself if you're willing to research and attempt.
Again, keep doing what you're doing because you're awesome!!
Good video, thanks for taking the time to record and share.
1. You scared me a little with your axle nut torque spec though. Per VW, the hex bolt like you have is 148 ft-lb + 1/2 turn (always replace). It appears you didn't use a new bolt? I've reused bolts without issues, but you may want to pick up a new one and install. Only costs a few buck and takes a few minutes.
2. When you remove the brakes, you can just take off the 2 16mm bolts and not have to mess with the allen head bolts and spring.
3. To free up the axle from the hub, before you remove the axle nut all the way from the hub, smack it with a hammer to drive the axle out. Works every time.
Thanks for the tips! I certainly can use them. I'll definitely get new bolts when it is time to do the other side!! :)
Same with the brake rotor, smack it hard with a hammer around the inner part (never on the rotor itself) and it'll definitely shake loose any rust! Always works for me. Another tip is to insert a wheel bolt so when the rotor let's go it doesn't fall to the ground or your feet!
I buy tools from harbor freight too. I had same experience with that 1/2 adapter, they break off very easily. I bought a 1/2 impact adapter, so far it's holding good.
Heh, yeah.... I get that sinking feeling in my stomach right when it gives way and I am kicking myself knowing I should have invested in some brand-name stuff. :)
@@stoppedsnoring
You Shouldn’t let your drive shaft hang.
Torque angle gauge Blue spot 07940
Will do the job for you 🙂
Thank you for sharing having the right sockets is crucial eh
Great video, I have a Mk4 and curious if they went away from pressed bearings as in the Mk4. Seems like most manufacturers went away from pressed bearings to removable hubs. I wanted to give you one tip if you are going to keep your vehicle for a long time. You pretty much want to use blue thread locker all of the time. The red requires more force to remove and can be difficult if you want to remove a bolt in the future. Heat can be used to loosen the red tread locker if required.
Thanks for the tip! That's a really good idea.
should have mentioned this earlier. Make absolutely sure you remove " ALL " greasy finger prints from the rotor braking surface. If you don't, that spot will case harden and the brake machine won't cut that spot if you try and turn them next brake job.
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I think you did very well for your first time, keep it up 👍
Thanks for the kind words, they are much appreciated. :)
i'm surprised you used the same bolts for the wheel bearings. from what I understand those bolts including the one for the axle, is a one time use. since they were torqued past the limit to re-use.
85krash torqued?? Jeezes just zap it on with with a swivel driver with a 3/8 air impact gun and boom. They will never come off.
100% agree. assembly should have come with a new axle nut
Looks like your CV boot was leaking as well, would have been the perfect chance to do it all
Thank you for showing tools. amazing!
Great video... you did great.. and saved some money too.
I like that 1/2" to 3/8" step down torque limiter. lol
Wythe raceway
You can loosen the hub bolt with the tire on the car. Much easier.
3:39 he does
Be happy when you break a tool....... this is always always better than "stripping" a bolt. Did I mention it is always?
Good perspective indeed! :)
Not sure if this was mentioned in the comments before and I am not sure if you did this because it was not shown in the video, but try to avoid touching the braking surface of the brake rotor. If you can't avoid it before you reinstall everything it is a good idea to spray down the braking surface of the brake rotor with brake cleaner. Leaving grease marks on the brake surface is not a good idea especially as that grease will be transferred over to the pads and none of that is good for the brakes.
Nice video
Good job man
Thanks for the detailed video. Did you need an alignment after this?
Great job
Good work! I do not like this work unless I have a car above my head ... Like it (y)
Oh, man. Yeah, a lift would be awesome. :) Getting up off the ground like that nowadays reminds me I'm no spring chicken anymore!
'Stand back' ... KICK! haha made me chuckle
I do that every time I remove a tire but I usually have to kick a LOT harder lmao. I live up north so cold and rust are common most of the year XD
@@vinnierusso2351 I wouldn't kick the tire. If its rusted to hell and nothing seems to get it off what has worked for me so to lower the lift until the tire start touching the ground and then keep lowering it until you hear a pop. The weight of the car will help pop the wheel off. No kicking required. Make sure you lower the lift really slow though. Once it pops lift the car again and youre good to go.
I see that your old bearing did not have any bolts other than the t30 and I'm wondering why that is because I'm seeing it a lot in videos. I also see you purchased bolts for it. Are they necessary or not? Please explain I'm very confused!
You may be right. I bought them because that was recommended not to re-use the old bolts when I originally did research. There's a lot of comments on this video about this sort of thing from people that seem to know a lot more than I do so hopefully they have better insight. I am still waiting for the other one to fail, but it still hasn't caused problems... and may get rid of this car soon though. Heh.
@@stoppedsnoring yeah well mine's a 2008 Passat I just bought for dirt cheap so I don't mind putting some work into it. I bought all the parts to do the front struts, the front sway bar links, the rotors and brakes and some of the calipers. Apart from that I had to do the PCV valve and will be doing the air cabin filters and minor things. I took off a wheel for the first time today and noticed that my rotor didn't have any bolts - whatsoever. I just had a hell of a day loosening up bolts that were so rested on I had to wait after spraying them down a few times using wire brushes scraping off rust. Only to find my sway bar link was determined not to come off..but I am also determined 😁 Keep up the videos!
I watched another video where they used a T47 instead of 7 hex bit. Why are there so many differences in the same model?
I think the Torx style may work in a pinch, but I don't think it is an exact match and may tend to strip out.
ok i saw at the end it took 5 hours to complete. what would you say was the hardest part? I'm looking to do this myself soon!
Oh man, for sure it was getting off those specialized bolts that held on the hub. The breaker bar deal did make all the difference.
So the Hub assembly is basically 2 parts (Spindle and Bearing)???.....smh Thank You so much!!
#GREAT JOB
Yeah, I was totally surprised that is was all together as one assembly. Long gone are the days when you can just pull out and replace the bearing themselves I guess... makes me feel old.. heh heh
@@stoppedsnoring Its probably for the better though because unless you had a press to punch out the old bearing it would be a nightmare to do by hand
kerosene works quite well ! Or at least the kerosene we had 40 years ago.
Good video, id say you're being a bit too delicate though, you could of knocked the disc off with a couple of whacks around the centre which would of made the job easier and given you better access to the hub
Thanks Ben.. I guess I 'm a little paranoid that I'll break, strip or round something off and probably could use a bit more power. ;)
You axle boot was spewing out grease. Idk how old this video is but I'm assuming the hub your replacing in this video is filled with water and it's about time to replace it again
Thanks for your comment. This is all a learning process for me and I didn't know that could be a problem. Ironically I took in the Jetta for an oil change shortly after I replaced the hub and they alerted me to this fact too!
@@stoppedsnoring great video, love the "can do" spirit. Hat Tip for having your son involved, too.
HOWEVER ... you succesfully remove/replace the front hub assy .... but have someone change the oil? LOL :P
dont think you need to separate caliper from caliper bracket in disassembly
They call tht factory jack the widow maker!
YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM!!! I DIDNT!!! When I did both my front wheel bearings!
Yeah you do or you cant get at the bolts behind the hub because of the driveshaft..
DONT TELL ME I HAD TO DO SOMETHING I DIDNT DO!!!
NO YOU DONT!!!
I must be completely lucky or just stupid, cause I did BOTH FRONT RIGHT AND LEFT on my 2006 Jetta and didn't touch the lower control arm. Only this I had to 'unbolt' was the wheel, caliber bracket WITH the caliber and brakes still on it, drive shaft bolt, aaaaand the 4 bearing assembly bolts. If you can't get to 'the bolts behind the hub' get the right tool, or try turning the steering! Don't tell me it can't be done, when I done it!!!
alright chill out.. still it gives you better access releasing the lower ball joint of the wishbone rather than struggling in a confined area.
i didnt "struggle" and had fine access turning the wheel, THUS saving me a hell of a lot of time and EXTRA work!!
Cool make a video :)
you got rust binding the parts together? an easy fix is VINEGAR , It literally dissolves the rust.
You didn't sand the inside of the spindle or even lube it up? Get your self some PB oil it's $3-4 a can and will make your life 100% easier
Thanks for the tip! I'm sure the other side will need replaced one of these days too.
+stoppedsnoring No problem! Anti seize is also a must have, that's if you plan on working on your car yourself makes bolts come out and in easy keeps rust away.!
Peanutbutter oil sounds delicious lol
Huge mistake not taking the rotor off right after taking the caliper carrier off.
Hola soy linares de santo domingo tengo un jetta 2006 y quiero saber si puedo ponerle unos aro # 18 y cuales son los paso cores poniente para aser lo
nice
That isn't a worn brake sensor. That was your ABS sensor
It was the brake wear sensor. Only the driver side has them and it goes into the brake pad. He disassembled the brake assembly and had to remove it. ABS sensor is in a different location.
You should have just given the hub or disc a couple of big smacks from the front.
cool
Should have replaced the rotor and brake pads since you had it apart.
should have de-greased the rotor before reinstalling.
I was thinking about your comment. Wouldn't the heat of hitting the break the first time immediately burn off/vaporize any fingerprints/grease I may have left on there or am I missing something?
Tap on the hat of the rotor to get it off; tap on the 27mil screw to get the axle off sherlock ;)
"That was the key" Use the correct tools.
U still need experience
Ha. We all know that already. :)
Helpful comments are welcome if you had some.
G
obj oo
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